Adafruit Pi Box Plus Created by Phillip Burgess

Adafruit Pi Box Plus Created by Phillip Burgess
Adafruit Pi Box Plus
Created by Phillip Burgess
Last updated on 2014-07-24 08:45:08 PM EDT
Guide Contents
Guide Contents
Assembly Instructions
Parts List
Opening the Lid…
If Using a GPIO Ribbon Cable…
© Adafruit Industries
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Assembly Instructions
Keep your Raspberry Pi® Model B+ computer safe and sound in this lovely clear acrylic
enclosure. We designed this case to be beautiful, easy to assemble and perfect for any use
(but especially for those who want to tinker!) This enclo sure is no t co mpatible with
the “classic” Raspberry Pi Mo del A o r B — we have a different case fo r
tho se (http: //
This case is for the Raspberry Pi Model B+ only.
Made of crystal-clear acrylic, this case keeps the Pi secure, has a hinged top for connector
access, and even has little feet cut into the sides so that it stands up above your desk. You
can use all of the connectors on the edges of the Pi: HDMI, Audio/Video, microSD slot, micro
USB power, Ethernet and the 4 USB ports. There's also a cut out to allow a 40-pin IDC cable
to the GPIO breakout pins on the Pi and pass it though the case. For more advanced hacking,
the enclosure is designed so that you can lift or remove the top piece and plug any sort of
cables you wish into the breakouts in the middle. The case is airy enough that no additional
vents or cooling is required.
© Adafruit Industries
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Parts List
The kit includes the following items:
Six (6) laser-cut acrylic pieces.
Eight (8) 1/2" #4-40 nylon machine screws.
Eight (8) 4-40 nylon nuts.
Four (4) 1/8" nylon spacers.
© Adafruit Industries
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Not included with the kit, you will also need:
Raspberry Pi Model B+ computer.
Small screwdriver.
Optional: tape.
Begin by peeling the backing paper off all the
laser-cut parts. It’s easiest to start at a corner,
catching the edge of the paper with a fingernail
The laser-cutting process sometimes leaves a
little paper soot at the edges. If you like, you
can wash the parts with soap and water, just be
abso lutely certain that all the parts are
co mpletely dry before proceeding!
Start with the bottom. It’s the largest piece, with four screw holes. There’s no front or back
face; it’s symmetrical and can be flipped either way.
Insert a nylon screw into each of the four holes.
© Adafruit Industries
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The base needs to be flipped over and set on
the work surface with the screws pointing up.
This can be done by holding all four screws
while turning it over…or, if that’s a dexterity
challenge, just use a little tape on the head of
each screw; we’ll peel it off later.
Place a nylon spacer over each of the four
© Adafruit Industries
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Line up the Raspberry Pi board over the four
screws and lower it into place.
Add a nylon nut to each screw and give it a few
turns with your finger, just enough to keep it in
place. It’s okay if they won't twist all the way
down — this is normal, other parts on the board
interfere with the fit.
Pick up the board (the screws should now be
loosely held with nuts) and peel away the tape
if you used it.
Now you can press each nut down against the
board (making the screw heads protrude from
below). You’ll find each nut has a certain
position where it can fit flush against the board
without interference from nearby parts. As you
find this placement for each nut, gently tighten
the corresponding screw with a small
© Adafruit Industries
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Examine the four side pieces. Unlike the base,
these are not symmetrical and each one has a
specific location and inside/outside faces.
Some have cutouts to fit around the ports, or
lock against other pieces a specific way.
As you sort out this little jigsaw puzzle, arrange
the pieces on the table so you can keep track
of the positions where each fits.
© Adafruit Industries
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Pick up one of the two longer side pieces.
These have a t-shaped slot at each end. Insert
a nut into the cross part of the T. You can either
pinch it in place as shown here, or hold from the
side with a bit of tape.
Mate this side with the corresponding end
piece (tabs and slots should fit together) and
feed in a screw to join up with the nut.
Repeat with all four screws and sides.
© Adafruit Industries
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The last piece remaining is the lid. This has
small bumps at one end that act as pivot
points…these meet up with holes in the sides
of the case.
To make this fit, you need to loosen one of the
screws at the pivot end of the case. Turn the
screw just enough that the tabs come free of
the slots and you can turn this piece outward
slightly, then the “lid bumps” can pop into
Make sure to line up the camera and GPIO
cutouts on the lid with the locations on the Pi
board; you may need to flip it over.
If you need frequent access to the board, you
can also leave the lid piece off altogether.
Now slide the bottom (with Pi attached) up into
the case, aligning the USB and Ethernet ports.
Rock it a little bit to get the HDMI and A/V ports
into their cutouts.
The base will pivot mostly, but not entirely, into
(If the USB & Ethernet ports don’t fit in the end
cutouts, you’ll need to remove those two
screws and flip the end piece over.)
© Adafruit Industries
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At the opposite end of the board (with the SD
card slot), loosen both screws slightly, so the
nut is flush with the tip of the screw.
You can then tip the end piece out slightly, drop
the bottom into place, and re-tighten the end
Taa-daah! Raspberry Pi, encased.
Opening the Lid…
© Adafruit Industries
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The large cutout on top lets you access the
GPIO pins with jumper wires. If you need more
access to the board (such as when adding a
camera), the lid can be flipped back.
This relies on the slight flexibility of the plastic
parts. There’s a “grippy edge” above the SD
card slot. Gently push this outward with your
thumb while lifting the lid with your other hand,
and it should pivot open. Push this piece also
when closing the lid.
If Using a GPIO Ribbon Cable…
If you’re using a ribbon cable or Pi Cobbler, you
need to connect that to the board first and then
assemble the sides around it (rather than
assembling the sides and popping in the board
from below). It’s a little more challenging but
the T-slot-and-screw principle is the same.
(This photo shows the original Pi and case.
Cable for the B+ hasn’t arrived yet, but the
idea is the same.)
© Adafruit Industries
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© Adafruit Industries
Last Updated: 2014-07-24 08:45:09 PM EDT
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