DURKOPP ADLER | 540 - 100 | Operating instructions | DURKOPP ADLER 540 - 100 Operating instructions

540-100-1
CNC-Doppelsteppstich-Knopflochautomat
CNC double lockstitch buttonholer
Bedienanleitung / Operating Instructions
1
Aufstellanleitung / Installation Instructions
2
Serviceanleitung / Service Instructions
3
Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld Ÿ Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld
Deutsch/Englisch
Telefon +49 (0) 5 21/ 59 25-00 Ÿ Telefax +49 (0) 5 21/ 9 25 24 35 Ÿ www.duerkopp-adler.com
Ausgabe / Edition:
09/2009
Änderungsindex
Rev. index: 01.0
Printed in Federal Republic of Germany
Teile-Nr.:/Part-No.:
0791 540001
Alle Rechte vorbehalten.
Eigentum der Dürkopp Adler AG und urheberrechtlich geschützt. Jede, auch auszugsweise
Wiederverwendung dieser Inhalte ist ohne vorheriges schriftliches Einverständnis der Dürkopp Adler AG
verboten.
All rights reserved.
Property of Dürkopp Adler AG and copyrighted. Reproduction or publication of the content in any manner,
even in extracts, without prior written permission of Dürkopp Adler AG, is prohibited.
Copyright
ã 2009 - Dürkopp Adler AG
Foreword
This instruction manual is intended to help the user to become familiar
with the machine and take advantage of its application possibilities in
accordance with the recommendations.
The instruction manual contains important information on how to
operate the machine securely, properly and economically. Observation
of the instructions eliminates danger, reduces costs for repair and
down-times, and increases the reliability and life of the machine.
The instruction manual is intended to complement existing national
accident prevention and environment protection regulations.
The instruction manual must always be available at the machine/sewing
unit.
The instruction manual must be read and applied by any person that is
authorized to work on the machine/sewing unit. This means:
–
–
–
Operation, including equipping, troubleshooting during the work
cycle, removing of fabric waste,
Service (maintenance, inspection, repair) and/or
Transport.
The user also has to assure that only authorized personnel work on the
machine.
The user is obliged to check the machine at least once per shift for
apparent damages and to immediatly report any changes (including the
performance in service), which impair the safety.
The user company must ensure that the machine is only operated in
perfect working order.
Never remove or disable any safety devices.
If safety devices need to be removed for equipping, repairing or
maintaining, the safety devices must be remounted directly after
completion of the maintenance and repair work.
Unauthorized modification of the machine rules out liability of the
manufacturer for damage resulting from this.
Observe all safety and danger recommendations on the machine/unit!
The yellow-and-black striped surfaces designate permanend danger
areas, eg danger of squashing, cutting, shearing or collision.
Besides the recommendations in this instruction manual also observe
the general safety and accident prevention regulations!
General safety instructions
The non-observance of the following safety instructions can cause
bodily injuries or damages to the machine.
1. The machine must only be commissioned in full knowledge of the
instruction book and operated by persons with appropriate training.
2. Before putting into service also read the safety rules and
instructions of the motor supplier.
3. The machine must be used only for the purpose intended. Use of
the machine without the safety devices is not permitted. Observe all
the relevant safety regulations.
4. When gauge parts are exchanged (e.g. needle, presser foot, needle
plate, feed dog and bobbin) when threading, when the workplace is
left, and during service work, the machine must be disconnected
from the mains by switching off the master switch or disconnecting
the mains plug.
5. Daily servicing work must be carried out only by appropriately
trained persons.
6. Repairs, conversion and special maintenance work must only be
carried out by technicians or persons with appropriate training.
7. For service or repair work on pneumatic systems, disconnect the
machine from the compressed air supply system (max. 7-10 bar).
Before disconnecting, reduce the pressure of the maintenance unit.
Exceptions to this are only adjustments and functions checks made
by appropriately trained technicians.
8. Work on the electrical equipment must be carried out only by
electricians or appropriately trained persons.
9. Work on parts and systems under electric current is not permitted,
except as specified in regulations DIN VDE 0105.
10. Conversion or changes to the machine must be authorized by us
and made only in adherence to all safety regulations.
11. For repairs, only replacement parts approved by us must be used.
12. Commissioning of the sewing head is prohibited until such time as
the entire sewing unit is found to comply with EC directives.
13. The line cord should be equipped with a country-specific mains
plug. This work must be carried out by appropriately trained
technicians (see paragraph 8).
It is absolutely necessary to respect the safety
instructions marked by these signs.
Danger of bodily injuries !
Please note also the general safety instructions.
Index
Page:
Part 3: Service Instructions Class 540-100-1
1.
1.1
1.1.1
1.1.2
Elements of the control panel
Altering parameter values . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Numerical values . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Selection of a parameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
4
4
2.
2.1
Menu structure technician mode (overview)
Submenu machine configuration (overview) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
3.
Calling up the technician mode and entering the code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
4.
4.1
4.1.1
4.1.2
4.1.3
4.1.4
4.1.5
4.1.6
4.2
4.2.1
4.2.2
4.3
4.3.1
4.3.1.1
4.3.1.2
4.3.1.3
4.3.1.4
4.3.1.5
4.4.1.6
4.4.1.7
4.4.2
4.4.3
4.4.3.1
4.4.3.2
4.4.3.3
4.4.3.4
Main menu of the technician mode
Submenu machine configuration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu user . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu for soft start setting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu for determining the equipment . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu for thread monitor configuration . . . . . . . . .
Submenu for the configuration of condensed stitches . .
Submenu for entering machine times . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu for the configuration of the operating elements
Submenu for selecting the menu language . . . . . . . . .
Submenu for setting date and time . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu for test functions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu Multitest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu output test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu input test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu automatic input test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu sewing motor test. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu step motor test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu RAM test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu EPROM test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu DAC III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu memo-dongle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dongle contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu loading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Submenu saving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Formatting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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7
8
8
8
9
10
11
11
11
11
12
12
13
13
14
14
14
14
14
15
15
15
16
17
18
5.
5.1
5.2
Knife setting
Aligning the knife and adjusting the knife height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Setting of the knife incision damper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
20
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3
Index
Page:
6.
6.1
6.2
6.3
6.4
6.5
6.6
6.7
Hook and needle bar
Needle position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Reference position of the needle bar . . . . . . . . . .
Setting the adjusting sheet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Loop formation stroke position and distance between
Needle bar height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Needle protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alignment of the bobbin case holder. . . . . . . . . . .
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21
21
22
23
24
25
25
7.
Aligning the throat plate as to the needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
26
8.
8.1
8.2
Thread tension plate
Thread puller adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thread controller spring and thread regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
26
27
9.
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.4
Sewing basket
Setting of the cloth presser block (lifting stroke) . . .
Lifting / Lowering speed of the sewing basket . . . . .
Alignment of the sewing basket as to the throat plate
Reference position of the sewing basket . . . . . . . .
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28
28
29
30
10.
10.1
10.2
Bobbin thread scissors
Setting of the closing path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Adjusting the spring sheet of the thread rest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
31
32
11.
11.1
11.2
11.3
11.4
11.5
11.6
11.7
11.8
11.9
11.10
Needle thread scissors
Function sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Removal and check of the needle thread scissors
Alignment of the scissors block. . . . . . . . . . . .
Scissors swivelled in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Height adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Scissors swivelled out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Distance to the needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Opening the scissors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Setting of the closing path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Setting the time for opening the scissors . . . . . .
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33
34
35
37
38
38
39
39
40
40
12.
Machine stop position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
41
13.
Bobbin winder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
42
14.
Solenoid valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
43
15.
Exchange of the sewing basket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
44
16.
Stretching the drive belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
45
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hook and
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needle
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1.
Elements of the control panel
Key
Function
If no text field is activated:
– Change to the parent menu.
If a text field is activated:
– Change between the figures tenth, unit, ten etc.
–
Change between the lines in the menus. The selected line is
always dark-shadowed.
If a text field is activated:
– Increase or reduce the value of the respective figure by one or
change between the parameters in case of functions with several
choices, e.g. between “Push button on“ and “Push button off“.
–
Activate the text field. The value can be altered with the keys “ñ“
and “ò“.
If a text field is activated:
– The set value is taken over.
–
3
You get back to the main menu from a submenu.
If a text field is activated:
– An input is aborted. The previous value remains unchanged.
–
The control changes from the sewing mode to the programming
mode. The buttonhole parameters can be altered in this mode.
–
The control changes from the sewing mode or programming mode
to the sequence programming mode.
–
The control changes from the sewing mode to the technician mode.
This mode can only be activated by entering a code 25483. In this
operating state it is possible to set basic machine parameters and
to call up diagnosis and adjusting programs.
3
1.1 Altering parameter values
1.1.1
Numerical values
Numerical values can be altered as follows:
– Select the line with the value to be altered with the cursor keys ñ
and ò.
– Actuate the OK key.
The cursor flashes under a digit of the numerical value.
– Change between the digits with the cursor keys ï and ð.
– Increase or reduce the value of the selected digit with the cursor
keys ñ and ò.
In case of parameters which cannot optionally be altered another
possible parameter value is indicated by actuating the cursor keys
ñ and ò.
– Actuate the OK key.
The set value is taken over.
– If the set value is not to be taken over, actuate the ESC key.
The initially set value is restored
1.1.2
Selection of a parameter
Some parameters allow to choose between several possibilities.
The parameter can be altered as follows:
– Select the line with the value to be altered with the cursor keys ñ
and ò.
– Actuate the OK key.
– Change between the possibilities with the cursor keys ñ and ò.
The selected parameter is displayed.
– Actuate the OK key. The set parameter or value is taken over.
– If the set parameter or value is not to be taken over, actuate the
ESC key.
The initially set parameter or value is restored.
4
2.
Menu structure technician mode (overview)
Parameter
Soft start
Equipment
X- /Y- Correction
Submenu:
Machine configuration
Thread monitor
Condensed stitches
Subclasses
Times
Counter (totalizer) :
Machine
User configuration
Display
Selection:
German, English,
Italian, Parameter
Language
Hour : Input
Minute: Input
Day:
Input
Set date/time
Month:
Input
Year:
Input
Lock P:
Selection
Hand switch:
Selection
Service
3
Multitest
Output test
Input test
Auto input
Sewing motor test
Step motor test
Events
RAM test
DAC III
EPROM test
Data reset
Memo dongle
Time/Date:
Display
Temperature DAC III:
Interm. circuit voltage:
Display
Display
Buttonhole data
Machine complete
Content
Loading
Save
Format
5
2.1 Submenu machine configuration (overview)
Max. speed: Input
Speed basting stitches: Input
Scissors is moved out: Input
n-stitches b. u. bartack/bartack tension on: Input
n-stitches b. l. bartack/bartack tension on: Input
n-stitches b. lip there/lip tension on: Input
n-stitches b. lip back/lip tension on: Input
n-stitches b. seam beginning/lip tension on: Input
Number of stitches:
Speed: Input
Input
Parameter
Basket length: Selection
Free basket length: Input
Soft start
Basket width:
Equipment
Free basket width:
Thread monitor
Knife length:
Condensed stitches
Pressure monitor:
Selection
Input
Input
Input
Times
Counter (totalizer)
Repair mode: Selection
Needle thread mon. on/off: Selection
Number of stitches: Input
Stitch length x: Input
Stitch length y: Input
Position last stitch: Input
6
3.
Calling up the technician mode and entering the code
In order to get into the technician mode a code has to be entered. For
this purpose please proceed as follows:
– Press the F key in the sewing mode.
A window for entering the code appears.
– Enter the technician code 25483.
Confirm with the OK key.
Note
If a wrong code has been entered, the automate returns to
the sewing mode.
4.
Main menu of the technician mode
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Description
T1
Machine
Selection of the submenu for the machine
configuration
T2
User configuration
Selection of the submenu for the configuration
of the control elements
T3
Service
Selection of the submenu for test functions
3
4.1 Submenu Machine configuration
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Range
T1.1
Parameter
-
Selection of the submenu for
parameter setting
T1.2
Soft start
-
Selection of the submenu for soft
start setting
T1.3
Equipment
-
Selection of the submenu for
equipment definition
T1.4
Thread monitor
-
Selection of the submenu for thread
monitor options
T1.5
Condensed stitches
-
Selection of the submenu for setting
of condensed stitches
T1.7
Times
-
Selection of the submenu for
entering machine times
T1.8
Counter (totalizer) buttonholes ever sewn
0 … 99,999,999
Description
Display of the counter of all
buttonholes ever sewn
The value cannot be selected or
edited.
7
4.1.1
No.
Parameter name
T1.1.1
Max. speed
200 … 4000
Setting of the maximum speed in the
sewing mode.
The speed can be altered in steps of
100.
T1.1.2
Speed basting stitches
200 … 4000
Setting of the speed for the basting
stitches
T1.1.3
Move out the scissors
0 … 10
Number of stitches after which the
scissors moves out and releases the
clamped needle thread
T1.1.4
Lip tension before the
upper bartack
0 … 10
Number of stitches before the upper
bartack with the bartack tension
switched on
T1.1.5
Lip tension before the
lower bartack
0 … 10
Number of stitches before the lower
bartack with the bartack tension
switched on
T1.1.6
Lip tension before the
lip back
0 … 10
Number of stitches before the lip
back with the lip tension switched on
T1.1.7
Lip tension before the lip
there
0 … 10
Number of stitches before the lip
there with the lip tension switched
on
T1.1.8
Lip tension after the
seam beginning
0 … 10
Number of stitches after the seam
beginning after which the lip tension
is switched on.
Only valid for taper bars.
Range
Description
0 … 10
Number of stitches of the soft start
4.1.2
Symbol
Range
Description
Submenu for soft start setting
No.
Parameter name
T1.2.1
Number of stitches
T1.2.2
Speed
4.1.3
8
User submenu
Symbol
Speed for the soft start
200 … max.
sewing speed
according to T1.1.1
Submenu for determining the equipment
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Range
T1.3.1
Cage width
3, 4, 6, X mm
Selection of the cage width
T1.3.2
Free cage width
1,0 … 6,0 mm
Only visible if cage width X has been
selected for T1.4.1.
Enter value for cage width.
T1.3.3
Cage length
17, 22, 35, 48,
70, X mm
Selection of the cage length
T1.3.4
Free cage length
10,0 … 70,0 mm
Only visible if cage length X has
been selected for T1.4.3.
Enter value for cage length.
T1.3.5
Knife length
1,0 … 70,0 mm
Length of the knife used.
(Default-Value: 3.5 mm)
T1.3.6
Pressure monitor
0/1
Description
Pressure monitor available
4.1.4
Submenu for the thread monitor configuration
No.
Parameter name
T1.4.1
T1.4.2
Symbol
Range
Description
Repair mode
A, B, C
Selection of the repair mode to be
used.
Needle thread monitor
0 … 10
Number of stitches not registered by
the thread breakage monitor before
an error message is displayed.
At the value 0 the thread breakage
monitor is switched off.
Description repair modes T1.4.1
Method A:
The buttonhole has to be unstitched and sewn again.
– After switching the automate on again the sewing basket lifts and
releases the material.
The automate is ready for a new sewing cycle.
Method B:
The buttonhole is completely stitched around anew.
– After switching the automate on again the sewing basket remains
lowered. The material under the sewing basket remains in its
position.
– Step the pedal forward (2nd step). The sewing cycle is started.
– After the sewing cycle the automate runs in reference position and
the sewing basket is lifted.
– The material can be taken out.
The automate is ready for a new sewing cycle.
3
Method C:
The buttonhole is continued to be sewn from the recognized point of
thread breakage.
– After switching the automate on again the sewing basket remains
lowered. The material under the sewing basket remains in its
position.
– Step the pedal forward (2nd step). The sewing basket moves to the
recognized point of thread breakage with the material.
– With the cursor keys ñ and ò you can move - not sewing - to the
position to continue the sewing cycle.
– Step the pedal forward (2nd step). The sewing cycle is started.
– After the sewing cycle the automate runs in reference position and
the sewing basket is lifted.
– The material can be taken out.
The automate is ready for a new sewing cycle.
9
4.1.5
Submenu for the configuration of condensed stitches
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
T1.5.1
Number of stitches
T1.5.2
Stitch length X
0,3 … 2,0 mm
Enter the stitch distance of the
condensed stitches in direction X
T1.5.3
Stitch length Y
0,0 … 0,8 mm
Enter the stitch distance of the
condensed stitches in direction Y
T1.5.4
Position last stitch
0…9
-4 … 4
Lip there
Fig. 1
10
Range
Lip back
Description
Enter the number of condensed
stitches
Enter the position of the last knotting
stitch according to fig. 1
4.1.6
Submenu for entering machine times
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Range
Description
T1.7.1
PedðStart
0 … 9000 ms
Delay time between stepping down
the pedal position 2 and the sewing
motor start
T1.7.2
EndðCage
0 … 9000 ms
Delay time between sewing end and
lifting of the cage
T1.7.3
CageðRef
0 … 9000 ms
Delay time between lifting of the
cage and reference start
4.2 Submenu for the configuration of the operating elements
No.
Parameter name
T2.1
Language
-
Select the submenu for the choice
of the menu language
T2.2
Set date/time
-
Select the submenu for setting date
and time
T2.3
Locking P
on / off
Switch the keyboard blocking for the
P key on or off. If the key blocking is
switched on, no buttonhole
programs can be established or
altered.
T2.4
Push-button
on / off
Select the push-button instead of
the foot pedal or in addition to the
foot pedal.
4.2.1
Symbol
Range
Description
3
Submenu for selecting the menu language
You can choose among the following languages:
– German
4.2.2
–
English (Default setting)
–
Parameter display
(e.g.: T2.1 instead of Language, T2.3 instead of Locking P ,
T1.4.1 instead of Repair mode)
Submenu for setting date and time
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Range
T2.2.1
Description
Minutes
-
1 … 59 min
T2.2.2
Hours
-
1 … 23 h
T2.2.3
Day
-
1 … 31
Date:
Input of the day
T2.2.4
Month
-
1 … 12
Date:
Input of the month
T2.2.5
Year
-
0 … 99
Date:
Input of the year
Time:
Input of the minutes
Time:
Input of the hours
11
4.3 Submenu for test functions
No.
Parameter name
T3.1
Multitest
Select the submenu Multitest
T3.2
Events
Select the event display
T3.3
DAC III
Select the submenu DAC III Parameter
T3.4
Data reset
Submenu Reset
T3.5
Memo dongle
Select the submenu Memo dongle
4.3.1
Symbol
Description
Submenu Multitest
No.
Parameter name
T3.1.1
Outputs
Select the submenu Output test
T3.1.2
Inputs
Select the submenu Input test
T3.1.3
Auto input
Select the submenu of the automatic input test
T3.1.4
Sewing motor
Select the submenu Sewing motor test
T3.1.5
Step motor
Select the submenu Step motor test
T3.1.6
RAM
Select the submenu RAM test
T3.1.7
EPROM
Select the submenu EPROM test
12
Symbol
Description
4.3.1.1 Submenu Output test
–
Select the output to be tested with the cursor keys ñ and ò .
–
–
Press the OK key. The selected output is switched on / off.
The switching state of the output is indicated in the display.
Outputs
Function
Y1
Control cylinder
- Main tension is opened
- Needle thread scissors is closed
- Bottom thread scissors is closed
- Sewing basket lifts
Y2
Scissors cylinder
Y3
Lip tension
Y4
Knife cylinder
Caution: Danger of injury!
Do not reach into the running machine when checking the output
elements.
3
4.3.1.2 Submenu Input test
–
–
Select the input to be tested with the cursor keysñ and ò.
The switching state of the input and its alterations are indicated.
Inputs
Function
S1
Push-button (optional)
S2
Pedal step 1+2 forwards
S4
Pedal step 2 forwards
S5
Push-button (optional)
S7
Needle thread monitor
S8
Pedal back
S17
Proximity switch X
S18
Proximity switch Y
S19
Proximity switch 180°-disc
13
4.3.1.3 Submenu Automatic input test
The changes of the state of all inputs are displayed automatically.
4.3.1.4 Submenu Sewing motor test
–
–
–
Press the OK key in order to start the sewing motor. The sewing
motor speed is displayed.
With the cursor keys ñ and ò the speed can be altered in steps of
100 rpm within the speed limits.
Press the ESC key in order to stop the sewing motor.
4.3.1.5 Submenu Step motor test
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Range
Description
T3.1.4.1 X-axis
-50 … 50
With the cursor keys ï and ð the
step motor is moved in the
corresponding direction by 5 ticks
each.
T3.1.4.2 Y-axis
-50 … 50
With the cursor keys ñ and ò the
step motor is moved in the
corresponding direction by 5 ticks
each.
–
Press the ESC key in order to quit the menu item again.
The step motor is referenced anew.
4.4.1.6 Submenu RAM test
When selected the SRAM is tested for errors. The result is indicated in
the display.
4.4.1.7 Submenu EPROM test
When selected the EPROM is tested. The following values are
displayed:
– ROM size
– Machine class
– Software version
– Software date
– Check sum
14
4.4.2
Submenu DAC III
No.
Parameter name
T3.3.1
Date/Time
Submenu for setting the time and
the date ð see chapter 4.2 (T2.2) of
this instruction manual
T3.3.2
Temperature
Display of the current temperature
inside the DAC III in °C
T3.3.3
Intermediate circuit
voltage
Display of the current intermediate
circuit voltage in V
4.4.3
Symbol
Description
Submenu Reset
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Description
T3.4.1
Buttonholes
Selection ® Confirmation
Reset to default the buttonhole
geometry.
T3.4.2
Complete
Selection ® Confirmation
Reset to default the buttonhole
geometry and the machine
parameters.
Attention!
All changes performed previously
will be lost. No recovery function is
available.
3
4.4.3
Submenu Memo dongle
The dongle can be inserted into the socket x110 (test interface) of the
control DAC III or pulled off again when the automate is running.
No.
Parameter name
Symbol
Description
T3.5.1
Dongle content
It is automatically recognized
whether a data or machine software
dongle has been plugged in. The
corresponding menu is displayed.
T3.5.2
Loading
The submenu Loading is displayed.
Buttonhole, sequence or machine
data can be loaded from the dongle.
T3.5.3
Saving
The submenu Saving is displayed.
Buttonhole, sequence or machine
data can be stored onto the dongle.
T3.5.4
Formatting
Format the data dongle
15
4.4.3.1 Dongle contents
Data dongle connected
If a data dongle is plugged in, all 50 buttonhole programs or all 16 free
contours respectively are displayed.
Buttonhole programs are named as follows:
Upper bartack type-Cutting length-Lower bartack type.
The corresponding bartack shape is shown in the display.
e.g.:
A14.2A
(“A” means straight bartack and “14.2" the cutting length)
In case of free contours the name is given when programming the
contour on the PC.
– Press the ð key in order to switch between buttonhole programs
and free contours.
Machine dongle connected
The following machine software data are displayed:
Class, subclass, version and date.
e.g.:
Class:
540
Subclass: 100
Version:
A01
Date:
01/01/04
4.4.3.2 Submenu Loading
No.
Parameter name
Description
T3.5.2.1 Machine data
After a confirmation all machine data are
loaded.
All global parameters (except:
Reference switch position x+y, cage length and
width, knife length, calibration values thread
tension)
- All buttonhole data
- All sequences
- Free contours (automatically the first two free
contours on the dongle.
Selection of the further 14 free contours
via menu item “Free contours” T3.5.2.4)
T3.5.2.2 All buttonhole data
After a confirmation the following is loaded:
- All buttonhole data
- All sequences
Free contours are not loaded!
T3.5.2.3 Individual buttonholes
The 50 buttonhole program locations of the
dongle are displayed.
- Select the buttonhole program to be loaded
with the cursor keys ñ and ò. When selected
the buttonhole number can be given on the
machine (1 to 50). Press the key
- P in order to copy the selected buttonhole
program to the machine.
Confirmation:
“Yes” - the buttonhole program is copied
“No” - back to the submenu Loading
16
T3.5.2.4 Free contours
The 16 program locations for free contours of
the dongle are displayed.
- Select the free contour to be loaded with the
cursor keys ñ and ò. When selected
the buttonhole number can be given on the
machine (51 or 52). Press the key
- P in order to copy the selected buttonhole
program to the machine.
Confirmation:
“Yes” - the free contour is copied
“No” - back to the submenu Loading
4.4.3.3 Submenu Saving
No.
Parameter name
Description
T3.5.3.1 Machine data
After a confirmation all machine data are saved.
- All global parameters
- All buttonhole data
- All sequences
- Free contours (the free contours 51 and 52
are automatically saved in the first two
memory locations for free contours!
Free contours saved in the memory locations
1 and 2 are overwritten!
Selection of the further 14 free contours
via menu item “Free contours” T3.5.3.4)
T3.5.3.2 All buttonhole data
After a confirmation the following is saved:
- All buttonhole data
- All sequences
Free contours are not saved!
3
T3.5.3.3 Individual buttonholes
The 50 buttonhole program locations of the
machine are displayed.
- With the cursor keys ñ and ò the
buttonhole program to be saved is selected.
The designation of the buttonhole program is
composed of upper bartack-cutting
length-lower bartack (e.g. B26.0C for upper
bartack = B round tack, cutting length
= 26 mm, lower bartack = C taper bar). The
bartack shape is shown in the display. When
selected the buttonhole number 1 to 50 can
be entered on the dongle. Press key
- P in order to copy the selected buttonhole
program to the dongle.
Confirmation:
“Yes” - the buttonhole program is saved
“No” - back to the submenu Saving
T3.5.3.4 Free contours
The buttonhole programs 51 and 52 of the
machine are displayed.
- Select the free contour to be saved with the
cursor keys ñ and ò. When selected
the memory locations 1 to 16 on the dongle
can be allocated to free contours. Press key
- P in order to copy the selected buttonhole
program to the machine.
Confirmation:
“Yes” - the free contour is saved
“No” - back to the submenu Saving
17
4.4.3.4 Formatting
In order to be able to save buttonhole data on a data dongle this has to
be formatted. A data dongle can only be used on a machine class for
which it has been formatted. If you have formatted the dongle on e.g.
class 540-100-1, you can only save buttonhole programs of the
540-100-1 on the dongle. If the dongle is to be used on another
machine class, it has to be formatted on this class anew.
ATTENTION!
A machine dongle can be formatted, too! The software is deleted
in the course of this!
Through formatting the machine dongle becomes a data dongle.
Enter the name of the data dongle (14 characters max.):
– Press the OK key in the submenu Formatting.
– Select the point to be edited with the cursor keys ï and ð.
– Select the character with the cursor keys ñ and ò.
18
–
The input is confirmed with the OK key.
–
Press the P key in order to start the formatting.
Confirmation:
“Yes” - the dongle is formatted.
“No” - back to the submenu Dongle.
5.
Knife setting
5.1 Aligning the knife and adjusting the knife height
1
2
Standard:
The knife should penetrate the knife slot centrally.
During the cutting open the knife should remain in the knife slot for a
depth of 0.2 mm in its upper dead center.
3
Setting:
– Remove the knife.
– Move the knife block down via parameter T3.1.1 outputs of the
submenu Multitest
– Loosen screw 2.
– Insert the knife in the knife slot, press it against the knife holder
and displace the knife holder until the knife is in the centre of the
slot.
– Tighten screw 2 and mount the knife.
Knife height adjustment:
– Loosen screw 1.
– Set the knife height in such a way that the knife remains in the
knife slot for a depth of 0.2 mm during the cutting open.
– Tighten screw 1.
ATTENTION!
When adjusting the height the knife holder must not be turned.
The knife must penetrate the knife slot in parallel position.
Check the knife penetration after the height setting.
19
5.2 Setting of the knife incision damper
1
2
Standard:
When switching on the knife, no loud sound should be heard.
Setting:
– Loosen counternut 1.
– Screw out screw 2 completely, then screw in screw 2 with two
rotations.
– If necessary, make a fine adjustment of screw 2 corresponding to
the instructions.
– Tighten counternut 1.
20
6.
Hook and needle bar
6.1 Needle position
3
5
4
Standard:
The needle (80 Nm) should have a distance of 1.8 mm to the front
edge of the knife.
Setting:
– Loosen screw 3 through drill-hole 4 in the arm.
– Shift the needle bar linkage 5 according to the instructions.
– Tighten screw 3 again.
3
Attention
After correcting the needle position check the distance between hook
and needle (chapter 6.4) and adjust it, if required.
6.2 Reference position of the needle bar
6
7
Standard proximity switch :
The distance between the proximity switch 6 and the switching
edge 7 should amount 0.7 mm.
Functional check :
Select the input 17 in the Multitest-Input test. On recognition of the
switching edge the switching status must change form “-” to “+”.
21
Standard reference position of the needle bar:
– Switch the machine on and let it move to the initial position.
– Switch the machine off again.
Correction:
– Loosen the screws 8 and shift the proximity switch 6 according to
the instructions.
– Tighten the screws again.
– Readjust the adjusting sheet, if required. Chapter 6.3 Setting the
adjusting sheet.
6.3 Setting the adjusting sheet
The adjusting sheet is used for the quick positioning of the needle bar
in the adjustment positions when the machine is switched off.
– Needle bar in the centre of the needle hole (reference position)
Bolt 10 abuts on the right flank of the slotted hole.
– Needle bar in the furthest right entry point with a throw width of 6 mm.
Bolt 10 abuts on the left flank of the slotted hole.
8
6
9
11
–
–
–
–
Let the machine move to the initial position (e.g. immediately after
switching on).
Loosen the screws 11.
Shift the sheet in such a way that the right flank of the slotted hole
of the sheet abuts on bolt 10 of the needle bar linkage.
Tighten the screws 11 again.
Note
Before adjusting the sheet the settings described in chapter 6.2 must
have been made correctly.
22
6.4 Loop formation stroke position and distance between hook and needle
3
1
2
3
Standard :
In loop formation stroke position the hook tip should be at the level of
the middle of the needle. The looping stroke amounts to 2 mm ±0.2 mm
up to 4 mm throw width and 2.2 mm ±0.2 mm for a throw width of more
than 4 mm.
In loop formation stroke position the hook tip should be as close to the
needle as possible without touching it.
Setting :
– Pull out the locking pin 1.
– Loosen the screws 2.
– Insert the locking pin 1 in the drill-hole 3.
Thick end for 2.2 mm throw width
Thin end for 2 mm throw width.
– Turn the needle to the bottom dead centre. The next notch in the
direction of rotation is the looping stroke position.
– The bolt of the needle bar linkage must be at the right flank of the
slotted hole of the adjusting sheet.
– Bend the needle protection up so that it does not push the needle
in loop formation stroke position out of the way.
– Turn the hook according to the instructions.
– Tighten the screws 2 again. Reinsert the locking pin.
23
6.5 Needle bar height
4
Standard :
In the furthest right entry point the hook tip in looping stroke position
should be just above the eye of the needle.
Setting :
– Dismount the throat plate.
– Bring the machine in looping stroke position.
– Check the needle bar height according to the instructions and
correct after loosening the screw 4, if required.
– Tighten screw 4 again.
Note
Do not turn the needle bar when altering the needle bar height.
24
6.6 Needle protection
1
Standard:
In the furthest right needle entry point the needle protection in looping
stroke position should abut on the needle without pushing it aside.
Setting :
– Bring the machine in looping stroke position.
– The bolt of the needle bar linkage must be at the left flank of the
adjusting sheet (furthest right entry point).
– Attach the needle protection 1 in such a way that the needle is
slightly pushed out of the way. Align the needle protection with a
butt-end, soft tool according to the instructions.
3
6.7 Alignment of the bobbin case holder
B
C
3
2
A
D
Standard :
The holder should be at the same level as the bottom part of the
bobbin case (Line C-D).
The back surfaces of the holder and the bottom part of the bobbin case
should be at the same level (A-B).
Setting :
– Align the height of the holder 2 with an appropriate bending tool
according to the instructions.
– Shift the holder after loosening the screw 3 according to the
instructions.
ATTENTION!
The holder has to be adjusted in such a way that the left lug of the
bobbin case holder does not touch the back of the hook.
25
7.
Aligning the throat plate as to the needle
4
3
Standard:
The needle should penetrate in the centre of the needle hole.
Setting:
– Loosen screws 3 and 4 in the throat plate.
– Press the throat plate against the left stop guide and shift
according to the instructions.
– Tighten screws 3 and 4 again.
8.
Thread tension plate
8.1 Thread puller setting
4
5
Standard:
Caused by the pulling of the needle thread the first stitch of the
buttonhole is sewn without thread tension. Thus it is avoided that the
bobbin thread in the thread rest is pulled up at the first stitch.
Setting:
– Loosen the screws 4.
– Adjust the thread puller 5
to the left ® more thread pulled
to the right ® less thread pulled
– Tighten the screws 4 again.
26
8.2 Thread take-up spring and thread regulator
5
4
2
1
3
Standard:
While the thread lever is moving down from its upper dead center, the
thread take-up spring should hold the thread tight until the needle
penetrates the fabric.
Setting of the thread controller spring:
– Loosen screw 1.
– Turn ring 2 for altering the tension.
– Turn case 3 for altering the spring travel.
(Spring travel 2-3 mm)
– Tighten screw 1 again.
3
Setting of the thread regulator:
– Loosen screw 4.
– The distance 5 (inner flanks of the thread regulator) should be set
to 5 mm.
– Tighten screw 4.
Note:
To obtain an optimal thread take-up with thick material, the regulator
should be shifted to the rear. The optimal position can be determined
through sewing tests.
27
9.
Sewing basket
9.1 Setting of the cloth presser block (lifting stroke)
1
2
3
Standard:
The maximum stroke of 12 mm must not be exceeded. When
exceeding the stroke the needle thread scissors would be pressed
against the knife.
Setting:
– Lower the sewing basket.
– Loosen the screws 1.
– Loosen the counternut 2.
– Turn the threaded pin 3 according to the instructions.
Increase the stroke - turn the threaded pin in clockwise direction
Reduce the stroke - turn the threaded pin counter-clockwise.
– Tighten counternut 2 and screws 1 again.
– Lift and check the cage.
9.2 Lifting/Lowering speed of the sewing basket
–
–
Turn the throttling screw 4 for adjusting the lifting speed.
Turn the throttling screw 5 for adjusting the lowering speed.
higher speed = Turn the throttling screw counter-clockwise
lower speed = Turn the throttling screw clockwise
4
5
28
9.3 Alignment of the sewing basket as to the throat plate
6
8
7
9
3
Standard:
When the sewing basket is lowered, the inner window of the sewing
basket should stand centrally to the needle hole.
The guide roller of the cloth presser block should run centrally in the
guide groove of the guide lever of the sewing basket.
Setting:
– Reduce the sewing basket pressure.
– Unscrew the sheet 6.
– Loosen threaded pins 7 and 9.
– Shift the guide lever of the cage 8 according to the instructions.
– Tighten threaded pins 7 and 9.
– Screw the sheet 6 on again.
29
9.4 Reference position of the sewing basket
1
2
Standard:
In reference position the distance between the needle and the inner
edge of the cage should amount to 1 - 1.5 mm.
Correction:
– Switch the machine on.
– Push the pedal backwards. The sewing basket is lowered.
– Measure the distance between the inner edge of the cage - needle.
– Loosen the screws 1.
– Shift the plate 2 against towards the needle ® the distance will be
reduced.
– Shift the plate 2 against towards the handwheel ® the distance will
be increased.
– Tighten the screws 1.
– Push the pedal backwards. The sewing basket is lifted and the
machine performs a reference run.
– Push the pedal backwards. The sewing basket is lowered.
– Check the distance and correct it, if necessary.
10. Bobbin thread scissors
The support plate 3 must be close and movable without clearance.
Insert or remove discs 4 of 0.1 mm, if necessary.
The thread puller 5 has to be aligned in such a way that it is at the
same level with the thread rest 6. By no means the thread puller 5
must stand under the thread rest 6 because otherwise the support
plate might be lifted and the knives could collide.
When exchanging the knives take care that the edge of the left knive
stands a little lower than the edge of the right knife.
30
10.1 Setting of the closing path
5
6
7
3
4
Standard:
With the bobbin thread scissors closed the cutting edges should have
moved approx. 1 mm one on top of the other.
Setting:
– Lift the cage.
– Carefully dismount the throat plate (the knife parts must not move).
– If required, turn the eccentric 8 after loosening the screw 9.
3
8
9
Attention!
Take care that there is enough clearance between the thread puller
and the cover of the hook path when the bobbin thread scissors is
open.
Hint
For checking the clearance between the thread puller and the cover of
the hook path the machine should be slowly moved via the handwheel.
If necessary, the thread puller can be adjusted after loosening the
fastening screws 7.
31
10.2 Adjusting the spring sheet of the thread rest
7
Standard:
The spring sheet of the thread rest must be adjusted in such a way that
the thread is held in the thread rest with a very low holding force.
Setting:
Turn the threaded pin 7 in the support plate in order to change the
holding force of the clamping sheet.
32
11. Needle thread scissors
11.1 Function sequence
Motional sequence
Initial position
–
–
–
Sewing basket lifted.
The closed scissors holds the thread.
Scissors is swivelled in.
–
–
–
Sewing basket lowers.
The closed scissors holds the thread clamped.
Scissors is swivelled in.
–
–
–
–
Sewing start
The needle thread is laid in the lip there.
The path until the scissors opens is adjusted under T1.1.3.
The scissors is swivelled aside by a block. The bolt of the movable
part of the scissors runs against a quare and opens the scissors.
The needle thread is released.
The scissors is in its left end position now.
Sewing position
Release of the needle thread
after sewing start
–
–
Catch position
–
The open scissors swivels in three stitches before the last stitch
(knotting stitch).
–
When the machine has come to a standstill, the cage lifting is
started.
The main thread tension opens.
The needle thread puller pulls the thread.
The scissors is closed by the closing block cylinder. The needle
thread is clamped and cut.
The needle thread is drawn under the fabric by the motion of the
bobbin thread knife.
The bobbin thread is laid in the thread rest and cut.
The sewing basket lifts.
Cutting and clamping
–
–
–
–
–
–
33
3
11.2 Removal and check of the needle thread scissors
1
2
4
3
Standard:
Before mounting and adjusting the needle thread scissors the following
has to be observed:
– The edges of the thread clamping plate have to be rounded and
highly polished .
– The thread has first to be clamped and then cut by the movable
part of the scissors.
– The thread clamping plate must rest on the clamping surface in
parallel position because otherwise no perfect clamping is
guaranteed when sewing.
– The clamping force of the thread clamping plate must be sufficient
to hold the thread safely.
– The cutting edges of both scissors parts must be sharp enough to
cut the thread accurately.
Dismount, check and mount the scissors:
– Switch the main switch off.
– Unhook the spring 1 .
– Loosen the locking pin 2 .
– Pull out the axle 3 and remove the needle thread scissors.
– Dismount the needle thread scissors and check according to the
instructions.
– Mount the needle thread scissors and make a cutting test.
– Reinsert the needle thread scissors and fix it with the axle 3.
– Put the spring 1 in.
– Tighten the threaded pin 2.
Basic setting:
– The settings of the needle thread scissors have to be carried out in
the above- mentioned order.
34
11.3 Alignment of the scissors block
1
2
Standard 1:
The scissors block should be at the same level as the lug of the cage
presser bar.
Standard 2:
– The scissors block should be aligned in parallel position to the
sewing head edge. (3 and 4 mm throw width )
– For 6 mm equipment turned by 1° counter-clockwise.
Setting :
– Unscrew the regulating screw for the sewing basket pressure.
– Loosen the threaded pins 1 and adjust the scissors block according
to the instructions.
ATTENTION!
By turning the scissors block the position of the cage as to the needle
hole is changed.
Correct the cage position according to chapter 9.3, if required.
35
3
Notes:
36
11.4 Scissors swivelled in
Standard: (throw width 3 and 4 mm)
When the sewing basket is lowered, there should be a distance of 0.5
mm between the front edge of the scissors and the right edge of the
sewing basket.
3
Standard: (throw width 6 mm)
When the sewing basket is lowered, the edge of the bottom part of the
scissors should have a distance of 0 - 0.3 mm from the left edge of the
sewing basket.
1
Setting:
– Turn the locking pin 1 according to the instructions.
– Check the height of the needle thread scissors according to
chapter 11.6 Height adjustment and correct, if required.
37
11.5 Height adjustment
4
5
3
2
Standard:
The needle thread scissors should not rest on the sole of the cage.
(Distance approx. 0.1 mm)
Setting:
– Loosen threaded pin 2 with the sewing basket lowered.
– Turn the axle until pin 3 lifts the scissors.
– Tighten threaded pin 2.
11.6 Scissors swivelled out
7
4
6
Standard:
When swivelled out, the front edge of the scissors should be at the
same level as the inner edge of the cage.
Setting:
– Switch the machine off
– Swivel the scissors out according to the instructions.
– Loosen the threaded pin 4.
– Twist the block 6 until it abuts against the stop 7.
– Tighten the threaded pin 4.
38
1,3 - 1,5 mm
11.7 Distance to the needle
Standard:
When the sewing basket is lowered, the distance between the needle
thread scissors and the needle should amount to 1.3 - 1.5 mm.
Setting:
– Position the needle in the needle hole.
– Loosen threaded pin 4 and shift the holding block until the spacing
is set.
11.8 Opening the scissors
1
2
Standard:
The scissors should open as early as, without touching the needle.
Setting:
– Position the needle in the left entry point.
– Loosen the screw 1 and swivel in the stop 2 until the opening
scissors just does no longer touch the needle.
– Tighten the screw 1.
39
3
11.9 Setting of the closing path
2
Standard :
With the needle thread scissors closed the two cutting edges should
have moved 1 mm one on top of the other.
Setting:
– Switch the machine on.
– Select parameter T3.1.1 Outputs of the submenu Multitest and
switch output Y1. The sewing basket is lowered.
– Open the scissors manually.
– Loosen threaded pin 2.
– Switch the output Y1 by pressing the OK-key. The sewing basket is
lifted and the closing block bar is moved out until it hits the cloth
presser bar.
– Turn the handwheel to move the needle upwards and bring it out of
the range of the closing scissors.
– Shift the closing block on the bar until it abuts on the bolt of the
movable part of the scissors.
– Tighten the threaded pin 2 again.
Attention
The movement of the closing block must be limited by the cloth
presser bar. The scissors must by no means limit this movement.
11.10 Setting the time for opening the scissors
Standard :
The needle thread should be laid in the sewn buttonhole lip.
For this purpose the needle thread is clamped as long as the zigzag
stitches of the lip there safely sew over the needle thread.
Setting:
Select parameter T1.1.3 Moving the scissors out and change the
number of stitches correspondingly.
40
Hint
A too long holding of the needle thread leads to a displacement of the
stitches in the seam beginning.
By using the configuration of the parameter “Position last stitch” T1.5.4
in the technician level, it is possbile to set the position of the last
knotting stitch of the buttonhole. It will then determine the position of
the thread being cut in the scissors.
Through altering the above parameter an improvement of the thread
insertion at the beginning of the buttonhole may be possible.
12. Machine stop position
3
4
3
Standard
After the sewing cycle the thread lever should be in the upper dead
center.
Correction:
– Switch the machine off.
– Move the thread lever to the upper dead center by turning the
handwheel.
– Loosen screw 4 and turn the 180°-disc in such a way that it stands
centrally on the reference switch 3. Tighten the screw again.
–
–
Switch the machine on.
Sew a buttonhole.
Should the thread lever not be in the upper dead center after sewing,
readjust the 180°-disc correspondingly.
Hint
If the thread lever is not in the upper dead center before the sewing
start, this may lead to sewing problems.
41
13. Bobbin winder
1
2
Standard:
When the bobbin is full, the winding process should stop automatically.
Setting:
– Unscrew the cover of the case. As the bobbin winder is connected
to the power supply with cables, lift the cover carefully so that the
cables are not damaged.
– Loosen screw 1 and turn the block according to the instructions.
– Tighten screw 1 again.
– Should the winding process stop too early in spite of optimum
setting, the feeler 2 must be aligned correspondingly.
42
14. Solenoid valves
Function test:
– T3.1.1 Select the submenu Output test
– The following outputs can be switched:
1 = Control cylinder
2 = Scissors cylinder
3 = Lip tension
4 = Knife cylinder
6 7 1 2 3 4 7
3
Exchange:
– Pull the hoses off.
– Remove the plug 6 out of the holder.
– Unscrew screws 7 and take out the solenoid valve unit. Pull off the
cables underneath the solenoid valve unit.
– An individual valve block can be exchanged after loosening the
screws 5.
– Put the plugs underneath the solenoid valve unit in again. Reinsert
the solenoid valve unit and tighten screws 2.
– Fix the plug 6 in the holder again.
– Put the hoses on again.
5
ATTENTION!
Before switching on the solenoid valve for the knife cylinder, the
sewing basket has to be in its initial position.
43
15. Exchange of the sewing basket
4
5
3
–
–
–
–
–
–
Switch the machine off.
Reduce the sewing basket pressure.
Loosen screw 3.
Change the sewing basket and tighten screw 3 again.
Readjust spring 5 after loosening the screw 4. For larger
equipment the spring 4 at the cage guide lever has to be displaced
a drill-hole further.
Re-establish the sewing basket pressure.
ATTENTION!
The new cage size has to be entered in the control!
For this purpose select the menu items T1.3.1 to T1.3.5
Submenu for determining the equipment (chapter 4.1.3)
and enter the values of the new equipment.
44
16. Stretching the drive belts
The drive-belts are maintenance-free and should not be restretched.
1
3
–
3
Dismount handwheel and belt protection.
2
Stretching of the drive belt motor-arm shaft:
– Loosen screws 1.
– Tighten the belt by shifting the motor.
– Tighten screws 1.
– Mount the belt protection and handwheel.
Stretching of the long drive and hook shaft belt:
– Unscrew the belt tightener 3.
– Loosen screw 2.
– Press the upper belt pulley unit to the right with the belt tightener 3.
– Tighten screw 2.
– Screw the belt tightener 3 on again.
– Mount the belt protection and handwheel.
Hint
Check the hook setting and readjust it, if necessary.
(chapter “Hook and needle bar”)
45
3
Notes:
46
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