Tartan 3400 Cecilia sailboat, Sea Eagle 10.6 dinghy, Honda 2 horsepower outboard Owner's notes

Dear Charter Guest,
Welcome aboard Cecilia!
Cecilia is a beautiful 2006 Tartan 3400. Her fine craftsmanship and modern yet classic lines
are sure to delight the eye as well as provide a fantastic sailing experience. The Tartan 3400
was designed for performance and ease of sailing with a carbon fiber mast, light weight yet
high strength epoxy hull, carbon fiber pocket boom for simple mainsail stowage and an
especially enjoyable self-tacking jib for ease of single hand sailing. It is a boat that provides
relaxation and secure sailing while the beauty of the San Juan and Gulf Islands unfold before
you.
It is our hope that Cecilia will provide you with hours of pleasure and contribute to relaxation
and the creation of pleasant memories.
Stan and Rita Jacques
Owners
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Boat Specifics
Anchors
Anchor Windlass
Barbecue
Batteries and Charging
Berths
Head Room
Bilge Pumps
Dinghy
Outboard
Dodger
Electronics
Emergency Safety Equipment
Engine
Fuel Tank
Head and Holding Tank
Heater
Refrigerator
Sails and Rigging
Shower
Stove
Water
Sump
Inventory
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5
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BOAT SPECIFICS
Year:
LOA:
LWL:
Beam:
Draft/Keel Depth:
Mast Height above WL:
Fuel:
Water:
Holding Tank:
2006
34’5””
30’5”
11’11”
6’6”
52’6”
25 gallons
60 gallons
20 gallons
Anchors
Cecilia is equipped with two anchors, one primary at the bow and a secondary in the
lazarette.
The primary anchor is a Bruce style claw, which we find holds well in a variety of conditions.
The chain length is 225’ with a single 10 ft mark of yellow paint at 100 feet, then a 5 ft yellow
mark at every 50 feet thereafter. There may be yellow Amsteel string or a single strand of
yellow polypro woven through links as backup for when paint chips away.
The Fortress secondary anchor in the lazarette has 15’ of chain and 200’ of rode in a grey sail
bag.
The stern tie line is a 300 foot spool of yellow polypropylene line in the lazarette. Insert the
mop handle through center hole to form a reel. (Please do not cut the line; it is all needed
for certain places in Desolation Sound.)
The scope to use in the islands is 4 to 1 for the highest water depth you’ll encounter in the
spot you choose to drop anchor. Check your tide data….know how much water you may
lose or gain during your stay. Most coves are 15’-30’ deep, so expect to pay out about 60’120’ of rode. After you have paid out the suitable amount of rode, 2 minutes of idle reverse
both sets the anchor and will test its holding power. Note other boats and points of
reference on land. Are you moving? If not after 2 minutes, you’ve set your anchor
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successfully. If you are still concerned, throttle up to about 1500 RPMs in reverse for another
30 seconds to prove to yourself that the anchor is set.
For storm conditions (sustained winds of 25+ knots) extend your scope to 7 or 10 to 1,
provided you have room to leeward. Otherwise set two bow anchors, using the Fortress
anchor as the secondary in a v-type pattern for extra holding power.
ANCHOR WINDLASS
Power is from the engine start battery. Always operate the windlass while the engine is
running otherwise the windlass will drain the start battery. The "On and Off" switch for the
windlass circuit breaker is located below the navigation station seat. The windlass remote
control is located in the chain locker. A winch handle is located in the chart table in case
the windlass fails.
With an electric windlass, it is important to deploy the anchor into the water by hand. Pay
out enough slack in the chain so that you can hand-deploy the anchor into the water about
one foot below the water surface. Having the anchor slightly in the water will prevent the
anchor from swinging and dinging the bow before you get it all the way into the water with
the windlass. Once the anchor is in the water, use the electric windlass to lower the anchor
to the bottom of the bay and deploy the desired amount of scope.
Steps for deploying the anchor
1. With the engine running, turn on the windlass breaker
2. Using the windlass remote, pay out enough slack in the chain so you can hand deploy
the anchor into the water about one foot below the water line
3. Use the windlass remote to deploy the anchor to the desired scope (remember 4 to 1
scope recommended)
4. Put engine in idle reverse for two minutes to set anchor; increase to 1500 RPM for 30
seconds for added security
5. Secure the chain with the keeper line
6. Return windlass remote to anchor chain locker
7. Turn the windlass breaker off
Retrieving the Anchor
When retrieving the anchor, never use a windlass to pull the boat forward to where the
anchor is set. The windlass is not designed for that; doing so could drain the batteries and
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damage the attachment base. Instead, head the boat slowly under power toward the
anchor while using the windlass to take up the slack in the chain.
Also when retrieving the anchor, only retrieve it up to about one foot below the water, then
by hand, retrieve the anchor onto the bow roller. This stops the pendulum action of the
anchor and will prevent it from getting caught on the bow roller. Once the anchor is set into
the roller by hand use the windlass to gently pull the remaining chain into the locker. Take
your time. The anchor chain dropping off the gypsy sometime bunches up under the
windlass and you might need to push it down several times with a mop handle to the bottom
of the chain locker to prevent the chain from jamming.
Steps for retrieving the anchor
1. Start the engine and then turn on the windlass breaker
2. Head boat slowly under power toward the anchor while taking up the slack with the
windlass
3. Retrieve with windlass until anchor is one foot under water
4. Bring the anchor up to the bow roller by hand
5. Gently pull remaining chain into locker using windlass
6. Attach the keeper line hook to the chain and attach line to the bow cleat
7. Stow the remote control in chain locker
8. Turn off windlass breaker
Securing the anchor
Once the anchor is on the bow roller, be sure to secure the anchor with the “keeper” line.
Snap the hook on a link in the chain nearest the anchor, and then tie off line on the bow
cleat. The chain on the gypsy of the windlass should not be the only thing keeping the
anchor from unexpectedly returning to the sea bottom. After securing the anchor with a
line, immediately switch the windlass breaker “off” to prevent draining the engine start
battery should the windlass system experience a short.
Barbecue
The stainless steel propane barbecue sits on the stern rail and is plumbed directly to the
house propane tank. Make sure the yellow-handled valve on the propane tank is turned
parallel to the BBQ supply line for fuel to flow. Turn the unit control to the “on” or “light”
position, and with the lid raised light the burner. In the event you need an additional
regulator, one is located in the spare parts box underneath the navigation station seat. As a
courtesy to the next guest, please use the wire brush wired onto the BBQ to clean it after use.
When you are finished, turn the yellow-handled valve on the tank off, perpendicular to the
supply line.
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Batteries & Charging
For normal operations, leave the battery combiner switch in the "I" position, ON, (horizontal)
all the time. Never move the switch to OFF when the engine is running. This will blow the
diodes on the alternator and the batteries will no longer charge. A battery combiner isolates
the start battery assuring all batteries are charged, while protecting the engine start battery
from draw-down by house usage. The combiner is protected with a fused circuit. Three
batteries, 100 amps each, are located underneath the aft cabin mattress. There is one start
battery and two house batteries.
Battery voltage can be checked on the electrical panel. Do not discharge the batteries
below 11.5 volts before recharging the batteries by:
1. Running the diesel - If we have had a full day of sailing with little use of the engine, we
run the engine at 1200 rpm for about an hour while at anchor or a mooring buoy to
charge batteries and provide hot water. Full charge on batteries is 13.2 volts on the
voltmeter.
2. Plugging into shore power with the charger breaker “on”.
NOTE: NEVER MOVE THE COMBINER SWITCH TO “OFF” WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING! This will
blow the diodes on the alternator. Your batteries will no longer charge.
Berths
Our boat sleeps four people comfortably and can sleep six if the settees in the main salon
are used. Two in the private cabin forward which has an extension installed; two in the
private aft cabin; and two in the main salon (under 6 feet). The main salon does not convert
into a berth. When sleeping on the settee, remove the seat backs for additional length and
width.
Head Room
The headroom on Cecilia is 6’3” taken at centerline in the main salon.
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Bilge pumps
Please check the bilge each day, morning and evening. It is accessed by lifting the
floorboards fore and aft of the settee table. When replacing the floor boards, the aft metal
handle faces aft and the fore metal handle faces forward. If it doesn't fit, don't force it.
There are 2 bilge pumps. The electric bilge pump has an automatic float switch. The pump
will come on when enough water comes in to cover the float switch. Please leave the bilge
pump switch in "auto" position at all times. The electric bilge pump can be used manually at
the electrical panel.
The emergency bilge pump is located in the cockpit next to the autopilot. The handle is
stored in the propane locker.
Dinghy
The Sea Eagle 10.6 dinghy with firm floor and inflatable keel is stable, rows well, and tows with
the least drag if brought close to the boat, about a foot off the stern. This lifts the dinghy
bow, reduces drag, and guarantees that you won't accidentally wrap the painter around
the propeller when you back up!
Tie the painter off twice: port side cleat and the bitter end tied onto the port stern rail.
Others have lost the dinghy when their cleat knot slipped loose. Be sure to tie her up on the
port side so she will not interfere with the engine exhaust, BBQ, and Espar heater vent.
As owners, we would appreciate your special care when beaching the dinghy. Ours are not
all gentle sandy beaches. Most often they are rocky, covered by barnacles equipped with
extra sharp rubber cutters.
Here’s what works best: (see Enclosed "Land Ashore Like a Pro" San Juan Sailing Handout)
Just before touching shore:
1. Shift crew aft toward stern - this helps boat go further ashore, and avoids cuts in bottom
from sharp rocks and barnacles.
2. Turn off outboard and raise it - this protects propeller from dings on rocks.
With oars planted firmly in ground, have one person slowly move forward and put weight on
the bow of the boat.
You should be close enough to step ashore onto dry land. Do not jump or you will force the
dingy backwards into the water.
Then offload everyone over the bow. Now the team lifts the dinghy above barnacle height
and deposits it gently on the beach. Secure the painter above high water level to a tree,
log or rock. Don’t forget…a rising tide can leave you high and dry and dinghy-less!
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Outboard
Cecilia is equipped with a 4-stroke Honda 2 horsepower outboard positioned on the stern
rail. This brand and size has proven to be a practical and very reliable dinghy outboard. As a
courtesy we have additional gasoline in a red container tied into the dinghy.
Warning - Gasoline fumes are explosive and a very dangerous fire hazard if stored on a
boat. Never store the spare gasoline container in a locker, lazarette, or any other storage
area on the vessel. Store it in the dingy only.
DO NOT add any oil to the gasoline mixture – it uses just straight gasoline. The fill cap is
located at the top of the engine.
The outboard is easy to transfer from the stern rail outboard mount to the dinghy transom
and vice versa. Attach the bitter end of the dingy painter to the handle of the outboard for
security as you move it. Once attached to the dingy, secure the outboard further by tying
the safety lanyard to the metal ring.
Please do not cruise with the outboard on the dinghy. It will not work after saltwater gets into
or even near the intake of the carburetor. We also recommend taking the outboard off the
dinghy at night. We have had dinghies deflate in the cool of the night and had wind waves
or powerboat wakes flip the dinghy over. Secure the outboard further by tying the safety
lanyard to the dingy.
TO START THE OUTBOARD Honda 2-hp, 4-stroke (Lock Combo 4300 chart desk)
1. Turn on fuel tank (lever on starboard aft quarter of engine). Push the fuel valve lever
aft to open the fuel valve.
2. Pull out the choke switch (starboard forward corner of the outboard)..usually need it
for the first start of the day. Push in after 5-10 seconds.
3. Unscrew (2-3 turns) tiny cap on top of fuel cap to vent the internal gasoline tank by
turning counter-clockwise.
4. Make sure the U-shaped kill clip with the coiled red lanyard is clipped into the red shutoff knob, port forward corner of the outboard.
5. Twist the handle throttle ¼ turn to start position.
6. Pull the rip cord to start.
While Running
1. Push the choke back in shortly after engine starts – about 10 seconds.
2. There is no transmission – just throttle up to go forward and throttle down to stop. If you
want to go in reverse, swivel the outboard around 180 degrees.
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To Shut Off
1. Shut the outboard off by pushing in the red shut-off knob where the kill clip is located
or just pop the clip off.
2. To avoid prop damage, shut the outboard off and raise it out of the water before you
reach the shore. Pull the outboard forward and out of the water until it clicks and stays
in place. To put the outboard shaft back in the water, release the stainless steel lever
on the starboard side of the shaft.
3. Close the fuel lever and the air vent.
When Not In Use
1. Put the outboard back on the outboard mount on the stern rail and tighten both
braces
2. Push the fuel valve lever forward to close (starboard aft corner of the outboard).
3. Close the air vent on top of the fuel cap by turning it clockwise.
4. Secure the outboard further by tying the safety lanyard to the stern rail.
Troubleshooting
If the engine won’t start, review starting procedure steps to make sure nothing was
overlooked. There is a spare spark plug and spark plug wrench in the tool box in case the
engine won’t start or is running rough. If you use the spare spark plug, notify your check in
skipper upon your return so it can be replaced for the next guest.
If the outboard is running and and suddenly stops, the fuel cap is probable not vented.
If the engine is running fine, but the propeller isn’t moving, the shear pin is probably broken.
Take the cotter pin out to remove the propeller and replace the broken shear pin. The spare
pin is located forward of the shaft under the handle grip.
Dodger
Our new 2014 Iverson Dodger protects the crew from the weather when in the cockpit and
also has stainless steel grab handles for safety.
The dodger’s plastic “glass” is vulnerable to scratching from salt crystals. When salt spray dries
on the glass, salt deposits can tend to obscure your vision. Please clean by pouring fresh
water over the glass to dissolve the crystals. Do not rub with a damp rag or sponge as this
will scratch the glass decreasing its clarity. Better yet, wait until you’re at a dock where you
can hose off the salt crystals. If the dodger glass is really clear, you can thank previous
guests for their diligence.
CAUTION: sunscreens react chemically with the plastic glass. Please don't spray sunscreen
upwind of the dodger glass or lean against the dodger with sunscreen on your back and
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shoulders.
replaced.
Once the chemical reaction takes place, the glass is ruined and must be
Electronics
Shore Power. Cecilia is equipped with a power extension cord for 30 amp power while
ashore. After plugging in to the shore power source switch the A/C main breaker on. We
switch on the following on th A/C panel when on shore power: water heater, outlets, outlets
2 and battery charger. The battery charger must be switched on for the batteries to be
charged from shore power. The A/C outlets will only function while connected to shore
power OR when the inverter button is pressed on and the A/C outlet breaker is in the on
position converting 12 volt battery power to A/C.
DO NOT PRESS THE INVERTER ON BUTTON WHEN CONNECTED TO
SHORE POWER.
Cellular Telephones - There are two 12 volt cigarette lighter type outlets for recharging your
cellular telephone. One is located below the electric panel and the other is in the cockpit
near the ignition.
Depth sounder - The depth sounder is an aid to navigation in shallow water. It may not give
accurate readings beyond 250 feet. In deep water you may get false readings caused by
currents, changes in water temperature, fish, and seaweed. The key to avoiding hazards is to
know exactly where you are at all times, best done from the charts. We do not recommend
using the alarm. Experience in the islands tells us that it goes off at the wrong time--usually
the middle of the night as a fish passes underneath.
There is an additional depth readout instrument in the main cabin above the VHF so that you
can check depth when at anchor without having to go outside.
GPS - To start the GPS functions turn on the “Navigation Instruments, Radar and Autopilot" on
the electrical panel. The screen in the cockpit will sound an alarm requesting you
acknowledge the system by pressing the OK button on the panel. The system is now up and
running. The owners manuals are in the navigation station for detailed information.
Remember this is only an aid to navigation. The primary aids are the Map-tech waterproof
chart book or the roll charts and most importantly your own due diligence.
Knot meter. The digital knot meter shows the speed of the boat. If it shows a reading of "0.00"
while underway, the impeller is most likely clogged with a piece of eelgrass. In our
experience this usually clears with the movement of the boat.
Radar – The radar is integrated in the RayMarine C80 chart plotter and may be accessed by
depressing the power button on the chart plotter and then selecting “radar on” on the soft
keys. We highly recommend that you enjoy a second cup of coffee or tea instead of
attempting to sail in reduced visibility. A motor yacht tanker or freighter traveling at 20 knots
takes only 39 seconds to travel 1/4 mile, a dangerous situation in decreased visibility.
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VHF radio: Turn on the VHF radio at the electric panel when getting ready to embark.
Monitor Channel 16 during your cruise using the remote access which plugs underneath the
chart plotter. It is reserved for emergencies and boat-to-boat initial contact. After contact,
move to channels 68, 69, or 79 for conversation between boats. See the enclosed "Tips for
Using Your VHF Radio."
Weather channels provide excellent coverage for the San Juan and Gulf Islands. Listen for
the report for the "inland waters of western Washington". There is a map in this book which
shows the locations of the various weather stations.
Running and Steaming Lights – Please be advised that night passage making is not permitted
under terms of your charter agreement with San Juan Sailing. Only use in cases of reduced
visibility.
Anchor Light – aka Masthead Light - Should be on all night in an anchorage. (It won’t
deplete the batteries)
EMERGENCY/SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Emergency Contact List - see enclosed "Emergency Contact List."
Flares – Visual day/night distress signals are located in a mesh bag in starboard settee
cabinet.
Fire Extinguishers – There are three fire extinguishers. One is located under the galley sink,
one in a cabinet above the port settee and a third in the starboard settee cabinet.
Emergency Tiller – located in the Lazarette. It is a two inch metal pipe with an “elbow” bend.
The runner post attachment point is under the transom seat.
Life Jackets – five life jackets are located in the wet locker of the head.
Through hull valves - know the location for all seven.
1. Head wet locker - three in a row
2. Galley sink - one
3. V berth floor cabinet - two transducers
4. Engine - raw water intake
Engine
Cecilia is equipped with an efficient 27 horsepower Yanmar diesel engine.
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Starting
1. Disconnect shore power
2. Check the oil level - dipstick located port side of engine through access door in aft
cabin. Level at half point between full and fill line is adequate. Do twice. If level is down
add only one cup a time - do not overfill.
3. Put the integrated gearshift / throttle lever in neutral by bringing to full vertical position,
pushing in the black rubber button at the base of the lever while moving the lever
forward about 1/4 throttle.
4. Turn key to right to start engine. If it is extremely cold, turn key to left for 5 - 10 seconds to
warm glow plugs.
5. Ease throttle back to just above idle for warm up.
6. Check for water gurgling out of exhaust.
7. Allow 5 minutes of warm up prior to putting a load on the engine.
Operation
Cruising speed is 6 knots at 2850 RPM. Do not exceed 3000 RPM.
The 25 gallon fuel tank yields about 30 hours of cruising or 180 nm range. As part of your
paper log, keep track of running time between fill-ups using your time piece; fuel the tank at
20 hours running time.
Overheating
A buzzer sounding while the engine is running indicates overheating. It can also mean low
oil pressure, but this is less likely. To assess do the following:
1. Check for water gurgling out the exhaust. If gurgling, check the coolant level. If no water
is gurgling, the water strainer is probably plugged with eel grass. Look under the galley
sink to check the strainer for visible obstruction. If eel grass is visible, close the seacock the T handle on the top port side of the sail drive - and hang the engine keys on the
seacock handle to prevent accidentally starting the engine with the seacock closed.
2. Open the strainer lid by removing the 2 wing nuts at the top. Extract the stainless steel
filter element and remove the eel grass inside the yacht over the trash bin - there is a
rubber O ring gasket that you must secure. Open the seacock to insure it is not clogged,
close it again and reinsert the filter element with O ring, making certain the lid sits flush to
get a good seal. Tighten the wing nuts simultaneously and reopen the seacock.
3. If the buzzer sounds again, check that the seacock is open and the lid is sealed. If it
draws in air, it will not draw in water.
Eelgrass and other debris
Eelgrass looks like an exploded view of lawn clippings. They are about 3 feet long, brownish
green, flat and about 1/2 inches wide. Look for them in two places--floating masses
undulating on the water, and in "tide lines", those soapy lines in the water that contain other
miscellaneous debris as well. Best solution here is prevention--keep an eye peeled for
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eelgrass masses, tide-lines, and semi-floating logs and steer around them. If eelgrass gets
sucked into the engine cooling water intake, it jams the raw water strainer
Engine Shutdown
1. Pull the gearshift lever into neutral, vertical position, to idle engine.
2. In the ignition compartment, locate the soft black rubber button immediately above the
key and depress until the engine stops.
3. Turn the key to the left into the Off position. Please never touch the ignition switch while
the engine is running.
Fuel
1. The engine burns 0.79 gallons of diesel an hour.
2. The Espar heater can use up to 0.5 gallons an hour.
3. Fuel gauges on boats are notoriously inaccurate. Think about fueling at 1/2 tank.
4. The 25 gallon fuel tank, located under the starboard settee, yields about 30 hours of
cruising or 180 nm range. As part of your paper log, keep track of running time, using your
time piece, between fill-ups; at 20 hours, fuel the tank.
5. Procedure: Obtain a fuel spill cloth before fueling and monitor the fuel vent on the
starboard transom located just below the cleat. Fuel slowly to avoid spilling. Wipe any spills
immediately with soap and water. Diesel and deck shoes are a very slippery combination.
Diesel will stain the deck if left in place.
Fuel Tank
See Engine, Fuel, Procedure
Head and holding tank
Please deposit all toilet paper and feminine hygiene products in a plastic bag or in a waste
basket, not down the toilet! Only human waste goes in the head
The head has a 20 gallon holding tank located under the aft cabin mattress. The "Y" valve
which indicates the flow from the head to either tank or discharge is located on the aft wall
of the shower stall. The arrows on the “Y” valve will point to either “tank” or “discharge”.
Normal operation is into the tank. Discharge is not done in these waters. The tank can be
pumped out two ways:
1. Pump out stations located at various harbors throughout the islands.
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2. Running the macerator to discharge into open waters when allowed. (San Juan sailing
will provide further information about approved areas for discharge of macerated waste.
)
When using the macerator please follow these
steps.
1. Open the sea cock for the macerator, located
under the floor of the wet locker in the head.
The head intake, discharge and macerator
seacocks are from outboard to inboard
respectively; left to right in the photo,
2. The macerator seacock handle is closest to
the center of the boat. Lift the handle to a
vertical position to open.
3. Turn the macerator on at the electrical panel.
It will take less than two minutes to empty the
tank. A high pitch sound indicates it has
emptied. It pumps off the stern so a lookout to report clear discharge is also helpful.
A tank gauge is located on the side of the sink next to the head, however, it does not read
accurately. As a rule of thumb, the holding tank is fuller than you think so empty every two
days. San Juan Sailing staff will discuss holding tanks and pump-outs on your arrival. Our one
plea is this--as you use the holding tank, please monitor it carefully! Exploding or leaking
sewage is most unpleasant! At the pump out station the tank should be pumped out, filled
with fresh water through the deck fitting to rinse, and then pumped out again.
Heater
The heater is an Espar diesel fired, hydronic cabin heater with the thermostat mounted
below the electrical panel. The heat is dry, comfortable, and on those occasional rainy days
or cool evenings, makes a huge difference in cruising comfort! The heater also heats the
fresh water so you have hot water without running the engine. Leave the heater switch on
the electrical panel in the "on" position.
Espar heater operation:
1. Flip switch on thermostat to "on" position.
2. Turn thermostat switch to high position. (red and green lights will come on over
thermostat)
3. Wait about 8 to 10 minutes then flip fan toggle switches above sink in head and below
port settee to "on" position. There is also a heater fan below the starboard settee that is very
powerful but noisy. We use it for short bursts of heat.
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To turn off, flip switch on thermostat to "off" position.
Circulator pump:
You can also heat the cabin by using the circulating pump if the engine has been running
for a while. This will circulate the warm water and using the fan toggles will heat the boat.
To use this method, the heater switch on the electrical panel must be in the "off" position. The
circulator pump and heater will not work simultaneously.
We find the Espar to be most efficient and prefer that method.
Vornado electric heater: A third method for heating is the small electrical heater that we will
use when on shore power only.
Refrigerator
The refrigerator must be turned on at the electrical panel. Find the thermostat located inside
the refrigerator. This is a well-insulated refrigerator and will function well when adjusted to
level 3 on the dial; if turned all the way up, everything will freeze! Run the refrigerator all the
time to avoid it becoming smelly. The refrigerator drains automatically to the sump pump.
Sails and rigging
Your purpose in life at this moment is to sail this beautiful yacht, to enjoy it's exceptionally
responsive helm, maneuverability and reaction to each change in the wind velocity! Let's
begin with the groups of cam clutches on the cabin top. The key lines are color coded for
quick recognition.
Port side: blue - cunningham; red - tack #2 Reef; jib sheet-labeled; jib halyard-labeled;
spinnaker halyard-labeled; white w/red fleck - clew #2 Reef; purple w/black fleck boomvang; black w/ white fleck - traveler.
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Starboard side: black w/white fleck - traveler; white w/green fleck - clew #1 Reef; green -
tack #1 Reef; main sheet-labeled; out haul-labeled; main halyard-labeled.
Mast starboard: black w/ white fleck - lazy jacks.
Boom fore & bottom: white w/red fleck - topping lift.
Mainsail – The Yager mainsail is a fully battened, conventional rig that flakes with the aid of
lazy jacks into a carbon-fiber pocket-boom for easy stowing. Batten roller cars provide ease
when raising and lowering the main.
When attaching the halyard to the mainsail (we keep the main halyard shackled to itself on
the deck to keep the noise down); be sure not to foul the halyard on the lazy jack lines.
Raising the Main:
Remove the sail cover at the mast and unzip the pocket boom sail cover. The zipper starts
at the aft end of the pocket boom. Roll and tuck into the boom.
Attach the halyard to the head of the sail.
Steer head –to-wind and maintain.
Release mainsail reefing lines, cunningham, mainsheet, and vang.
Raise the halyard at the mast, while someone in the cockpit takes up the slack. If
shorthanded, you can pull the halyard from the cockpit, but it takes a fair amount of
strength. Watch the battens as they pass through the lazy jack lines to prevent snagging.
Winch the halyard up the last few inches to eliminate wrinkles in the luff.
Shape the main as the skipper directs.
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There is silicone sail track lube under the navigation station seat which can be applied to the
sail plugs and batten cars if the mainsail starts to give resistance when being raised or
lowered.
Lowering the Main: when lowering the mainsail, it will flake nicely for the first 90% of the sail,
then do a few tugs on the luff to flake the rest neatly into the pocket boom.
Reefing the Mainsail – “Reef early and reef often” and "flatter is faster." This will keep your
crew comfortable and you from rounding up. The main has two reef points both of which
are operated with a double-line system with lines lead aft to the cabin top. Reefing the
main is easy and can be done from the cockpit.
Here’s the how to Reef:
Ensure the sail stop at the bottom of the mainsail track is hand tight only, no pliers.
De-power the main by heading up while easing the main sheet.
Be sure the topping lift will hold up the boom by checking for and removing any slack.
Let the tension off the boom vang.
Lower the mainsail halyard so that the reefing point is about 3 feet above the boom and
cleat off the main halyard.
For Reef #1, locate the two lines on the starboard group, solid green for the luff and white
with green flecks for the leech that are side-by-side in the group of cam lock clutches. Pull
them together, one in each hand, to draw down the luff and leech reef points close to the
boom. The new clew should be at the boom and the new tack should be just above the
boom to allow space for the flaked sail without popping out the sail stop.
Raise the main halyard to tighten the luff; shape sail as skipper directs.
For Reef #2, locate the two lines in the port group of cam lock clutches, solid red for the luff
and white with red flecks for the leech, same diameter, and they are separated by the three
large cams. Repeat process above as for first reef.
Headsail – Cecilia is equipped with a smart 100% self tacking Yager jib trimmed to a Harken
self-tacking cabin top
Deploying the Jib: keep light tension on the roller furling line while pulling in the jib sheet to
prevent a rat's nest on the drum. Do likewise on the jib sheet when furling.
To tack, simply turn the wheel until pointed to the new heading. The headsail will move to
the opposite side. The Yager built sail has excellent shape. In heavy winds, furl as needed.
Boat heel will be greatly reduced when sailing under reefed main and partially furled
headsail in winds over 17 knots.
Spinnaker – Cecilia is equipped with a beautiful asymmetrical spinnaker that may be used
by guests who have appropriate spinnaker experience. Please talk to a San Juan sailing
representative about this option.
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Shower
Water is heated automatically when the engine is running under load and when the Espar
heater is operating. The hot water is stored in the insulated 6 gallon tank located in the
lazaret. It can also be heated electrically when on shore power.
Use the sailors shower to conserve water when cruising: water on - wet down; water off soap up; water on - rinse.
The faucet spigot will become a shower spray when the nozzle is pulled out.
Both the shower water and the head sink drain into the sump pan located in the bilge.
Leave the sump switch on the electric panel on all the time to prevent bath water,
toothpaste, or shampoo from getting into the bilge.
The sump pan has an automatic float switch.
Stove
The propane for the stove is from a tank on the starboard side of the cockpit. This area is
vented and isolated from the rest of the boat. The tanks are filled every 2 weeks. One tank
normally lasts much longer than that.
To operate the top burners:
Open the hand valve on the propane tank all the way.
Make sure all stove controls are in the "off" position.
Turn on propane solenoid switch at the electrical panel labeled “LPG Control”.
To the left of the stove on the wall you will find a mounted Xintex LPG control. Check to
make sure the red “Danger” detection light is not lit. Push the left button labeled, “Valve
On/Off“. You will hear a click.
Push in the desired stove burner knob and light with the provided fire starters. Hold the knob
for 5 to 10 seconds to make sure propane is feeding properly.
When finished turn off stove knob, Xintex, and LPG control on the electrical panel.
To light the oven, push in the oven knob and simultaneously turn to the left. You will hear a
clicking sound. That is the pilot light. Continue to depress in the knob and keep turning left.
The burner should light immediately. Continue to hold the knob in for 5-10 seconds after the
gas has ignited as sometimes air pockets form in the line and the flame will extinguish if you
do not keep the knob held in. Turn off as for the top burners.
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Water
Water pressure: The water pressure switch is at the electrical panel. Please switch off when
motoring or sailing. Please switch on only when water is needed. The water pump will keep
running when the tanks are dry and you will not hear it while sailing or motoring. The pump
can burn out.
Water tanks: Cecilia has two 30 gallon water tanks. One is located under the forward cabin
and the second is located under the port settee. Selection valves are located under the
sink. Use one tank at a time to monitor water usage. Note: Water is not available at State
Parks.
SUMP
Cecilia is equipped with a sump pump located in the bilge that collects shower, head-sink
and refrigerator grey water in a pan. The sump has its own pump that comes on
automatically when filled to a certain level. Keep the sump switch at the electrical panel in
the on position at all times.
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INVENTORY
Item
1. Anchor remote
2. BBQ and Cover
3. Bilge Pump Handle
4. Binoculars
5. Bucket
6. Cockpit Cushions
7. Compass
8. Crab Cook pot
9. Crab Pot
10. Crab Pot Bait Trap
11. Dinghy
12. Dinghy Pump
13. Dinghy Repair Kit
14. Dock Lines(6)
15. Dodger Covers
16. Easy Docker
17. First Aid Kit
18. Flags
19. Flares
20. Flashlights
21. Holding Tank Treatment
22. Horn
23. Hose with Nozzle
24. Impeller Plug
Seat
25. Keys
Location
Chain Locker
Starboard Aft Rail
Propane Locker
Starboard Settee Cabinet
Lazarette
Cockpit Seats
Navigation Station
Under forward Berth
Lazarette
In Crab Cook Pot
On Dock or In Tow
Lazarette
Under Navigation Station Seat
Lazarette
None
Lazarette
Starboard Head Cabinet
Starboard Settee Shelf or Flag Holder
Starboard Settee Cabinet Mesh Bag
Navigation Station, Companionway
Under Head Sink
Navigation Station
Lazarette
General Spare Parts Bin –under Nav Station
Navigation Station
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26. Owner Manuals
27. Pole Hook (Boat Hook)
28. Radar Reflector
29. Radio Remote
30. Rope
31. Seacock Plugs
32. Searchlight
33. Searchlight Cords
34. Stereo Remote
35. Tool Caddy, Oil, Spare Parts
Motor
36. Utility Knife
Starboard Settee Stowage
On Deck
Forward Berth Starboard cabinet / Backstay
Navigation Station
Lazarette
Black Mesh Bag in shower seat bin
Large flashlights two, see above
N/A
N/A
Under Navigation Seat: 2 Bins for General &
Navigation Station
Desolation Sound Parts Kit - plastic bin for long distance cruising - Lazarette
1. Starter
2. 80 amp alternator
3. Raw water pump
4. Fresh water pump for house
5. Bilge pump with built in float switch
6. Float switch for sump
7. Navigation bulbs (2) (NB: location General Spares bin)
8. RR20S fuel filter elements (2)
9. RR20T fuel filter elements (2)
10. Fuel filters 104500-55710 with O ring gasket (2)
End of DS spare parts list
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