How Make Up 6UT

How Make Up 6UT
TT 520
.H465
Copy
1
.^^VMm-mm^
A TEXT BOOK.
How
TO 6UT
AND Make Up
LADIES'
GARMENTS
CHAS. HFXKLINGER.
Price,
-
$2.00.
Pur.l.lSHED
135
AT
EAST EIGHTH STREET,
Nfr^ai*
Bi'oail way,
NEW
YORK,
^CONTENTS
....•'
...
The Measukks.
To Draft a VVaim
Low Neck Dress
...
kj Mea>liKK,
Waists,
.
.
The Basque,
The
Basting and Trying on the Waist,
Waist,
.
.
Plain and Train Skirts,
Draping and Trimming
.18
...
Inside of High Waist Basque,
Low Neck
.11
.....
Sleeve,
Inside of
7
-
Dresse,--,
Directions for Making a Plain Skiri,
.....
.....
'5
17
19
22
23
26
29
Draping the Overskirt,
32
Finishing the Jacket,
36
Button-Holes,
39
Trimmings,
•il
'^=^^^S:=^
6WJ'
Hecklinger's Ladies' Garments,
A TEXT BOOK.
How
TO Cut and
LADIES'
Make
Garments
BY-
CHAS. HECKLINGER.
(^
r*1AY
published at
135 East Eighth Street, near Broadway,
NEW
YORK.
1
1886
'^
X
Copyrighted by CuAS. Hecklingkk, lu-brunry.
i836.
-^.rrx^. -o
PREFACE.
^.^I^Vi'^ljrrfAVING in the years
with such good success,
Am
densed form and
^
methods
construct
of
cutting and
own
their
dresses
can acquire
it
the
dressmaker
jacket which
is
purely and
the
a few hours,
in
is
far
The
Systems
up,
so.
will
for
result
present
in
way
a
our System
publish
a con-
in
may
simplify
their
is
children,
easily learned
fit
of
and
can
have a guide by
— any
miss of sixteen
style will be satisfactory.
producing a pattern of a dress or
any known method she may be acquainted with,
simply a Tailor System, and
its
to
order that dressmakers
in
The method
and the
tailors
and even mothers who desire to design and
garments
or
superior to
modern tailor-made
conforming to
it
we have decided
making
teacliing
in
garments, and our students having met
ladies'
popular price,
at a
which they are enabled to do
To
had very extensive experience
and dressmakers liow to cut
JjL'-^A:!Jk2
their
past
dresses, can
just
as
the success which
well
tailors
have
in
as
it
making
be acquired by the dressmaker by
use.
correct results which
for cutting ladies'
our System give, place
it
at
the
head of any and
garments.
The Author.
all
^>.y
The Measures.
HE
7tc
y
cP"
measures required are few, and only such are taken as give
a sure result.
(See
1 and 2.)
Have a tape to fasten around the waist, so that it will lay level
that is, even at the back and at side.
An elastic with a crooked pin at one end
Figs.
makes a good tape to fasten around.
Then measure from the socket-bone
of the tape at waist
the
full
at the top of the back, point O, to point
below to the point B, the highest part of the
length of the garment wanted.
;
also
hip,
I
at
top
and then to
Next take the measure
armhole.
right.
of the width of the
back from the centre scam
at
E
In taking this, one must be careful to observe whether the dress worn
Should
it
either be too narrow or too wide,
modify your measure as seems
to
is
D
at
about
right.
Take the measure next under the arm to get the height. This is best done by moving
the arm forward to allow you to put the end of the tape directly under the arm at sleeve
scam (see Fig. 1) at point F; then from there measure down to the bottom of tape at J.
Next put it under the arm, close up, and get the length of the arm down to the wrist, which
gives the sleeve length (see Fig.
is
2),
and observe that
applied at point O, at back of neck
down
in front of
should be taken easy, not drawn
become too short.
Next measure from the
arm,
let it
;
the armhole, letting
holding
hang
it
in
taking the front length the tape
tight there,
it is
passed over the shoulder
down
to the tape at J. This measure
tight in to the hollow of the shoulder, for it might thus
it
straight
arm to the centre of back. Hold the tape in front of
body under arm, over the blade-bone, and thence to the
front of
tighten close around the
We have a little square, having a tape attached, which is used
and very handy, and gives a correct measure. This is sold complete
centre seam of the back.
to take this measure,
at seventy-five cents.
Take the breast measure easy over the fullest part of the bust and shoulder-blades;
then the waist measure, always close then also the hip measure.
For a skirt, the length is taken on the side from the waist line down to the floor, and
also in front from the waist.
;
To
l^
IN
order to
make
Draft a W^aist to Measure.
more clearly understood, we shall use a certain measure to draft
For example, this measure shall be the following: Length of
where the tape lays, 15 inches the width of back, C>^ inches height
this
{^l
u
our pattern by.
^'9'
natural waist to
;
;
under arm, 7 inches; length of sleeve, l(i inches; front length, ISJ- inches; the breast
measure is 3('i inches, and the waist 2i inches.
In drafting out our pattern we shall use this measure, but, of course, it is evident that
when a measure varies from this we get a different size. But whatever the measures may
be, the
method
of using
them
is
the same in every case as the one which will
now be
explained.
See Diag. 3, and start by drawing a line on the edge of your paper as from O to F, and
one at top, at right angles, from O to N. For this you need a tailor's square, which should
be on every dressmaker's table. Then measure down from O three-fourths of an inch, and
in from O to J two inches, and curve from | to ^ as on our figure.
From f down apply the length of back which is fifteen inches to F, and at F draw
a line over towards the front.
Next, go in from the line at point F one and one-half
inch and dot a point, and from this point to
draw a straight line for the centre of back.
J
Now
arm
where
to get the line under the
seven inches, which will give C,
with the first back line.
From Z
Measure up from F the height under the arm,
a line is drawn over to the front at right angles
:
to 16 place one-half of the breast measure, which in this case is eighteen
and draw a line up and down. Also measure over from Z to S the actual width of
the back, six and one-half inches, and from Z to H for the front of arm, which is ten and
one-half inches, and which measure is the blade measure as taken from the front of arm to
the centre of back. At S and H draw lines up.
In the middle between O and C mark a point B, from which draw a line over, and in
the middle between S and G mark a point R, and draw lines across as shown at R.
Every
line drawn thus far, except the back line which is from
to
must
at
right
angles
be
with
1^,
|
inches,
the line
it
starts from.
From
the point where the lines cross at G, draw one across to top of back at
curve from ^ to
J,
which
is
^,
and
one-half inch above G.
Beginning at J curve the armhole past G, a trifle inside the line between G and R, and
from there to 15. This last is about one inch from S. Make the bottom of the back one
and one-half inch wide. This is only a medium size, as it can be made one or two inches
only placing the seam further back or more forward.
Next, from R draw a straight line to 1^ (see Diag. 4), then slightly curve for the seam
from R, inside of line past 19, to 2. Between 10 and 2 curve more towards the centre of
back.
A few trials only are needed to produce these or any other curves, and by a little
perseverance any dressmaker can draw all the lines and curves as well as a tailor.
—
From
2 on the back to side-body
Point
V
is one inch
then curve from 19 to 1.
the centre between S and H.
F"rom V, straight down, draw a line to 4,
and curve a little on each side of it. Also separate the side-body from X to 3. Point
is
midway between line R and V, and the distance between 3 and 4 is about one inch more
is
;
in
X
X
than between
and V.
Take
point
N
At
this
one-sixth of the breast, which in this case equals three inches, and place
to P.
Use N as pivot and sweep- from P to 15.
point 8 on waist
measure
*A
sweep
is
is
line, directly
it
from
under H, measure up past P the front length, which in
it
the width of back on top,
eighteen and one-half inches, deducting from
a curve
drawn from a
pivot.
with the other curve around with a pencil.
Draw
it
with a compass, or hold one end of the tape
at
N
as pivot, and
A to |,
be the case when a person is
erect that this will reach above the line at P, or, again, on stooping figures, this measure is
Wherever the measures locate P, should it go above or
shorter and will not reach P.
below, always sweep from a point marked N, which should be drawn even across with the
from
and where
P
this reaches point
is
fixed.
It
may
shoulder point P.
No
matter where point P
always start from
it
to
Now
height of shoulder.
place
it
draw
is
located by measure, whether above, below, or on the line,
B on the back, on which is placed the
a line across to point
take the width of the shoulder on the back from A to G, and
Then from 17 curve above it about one-fourth
this line.
from P to get point 17 on
//
10
/2
from 17 to 20. Also draw the armhole from 20, going
inside of H, but never more than one-half inch, to V, as shown on our diagram.
Draw the front line next starting inside of straight line at 15 one-quarter inch, and
gradually curve out till at D we have a one-half inch curve, and then go in again to line
near the waist at U. From U go down one and one-fourth inch to T, and draw a line
inch at 21, and drop
it
a
trifle
—
across to 13.
Measure the distance from
draft
it
U
will give us sixteen inches.
to
li-,
skipping the opening between 1 and 2, and in this
one-half of the waist measure is twelve inches.
Now
10
which sLibstracted from sixteen inches leaves us four inches, which must be taken out
in
darts in front.
we proceed in this manner: First
and D, which gives 12, and another in the centre
between H and 12, which is marked 13. From U, in front, to 5, place two inches. We
never wish to have the first dart any nearer to the front than this, except on narrow waists
Then from 5 to 6 we place two inches, which is one-half of the
or on full dress waists.
Between the darts leave three-fourths inch, and then place
amount to be taken out.
another dart of two inches from 7 to S. In the centre of each dart mark a point like the
stars, and from these draw lines to 13 and 12.
One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23, while 22 is one-half inch lower,
It will
then, starting from each of the last points, curve them as shown on the diagram.
be seen that they are drawn very pointed at the top, and that below the waist line they
Go down from U one and oneare run straight down without any spring being given.
quarter inch and draw the line across to 12.
From 1 curve to 3 and 4; between 3 and 4 this line runs a trifle above the waist line,
and then from 4 to 12 on lower line. Point 10 is a little lower than the line, while it rests
on the line from 9 to T.
This finishes the draft by measure, and we need only say that this pattern, as well as
this book, requires the adding of seams according to the
all we draw or explain in
In order to produce these darts in the right place,
locate a point in the middle
between
H
material used.
"^^^
11
Low Neck
Dress Waists.
(^T w,ll be noticed that the general arrangements of the draft illustrating
these
the
CI same as the pnor or main draft produced by this System. The pointed, basque-like
is
Y
shape at bottom,
vh.ch
made
.s
to
whatever shape
may
we
be desired, a few illustrations of
g:ve as they appear finished.
One main point, however, on all may be noticed
"oiicea,
that they are all short on the side over the
hips.
In drawing out all waists which are low in
the neck, the first point which we
shall call
attenfon to .s that they must reach low down
on the shoulders, and, therefore, we
have o
draft them so to meet this requirement.
'^''^''
oneha Mnf;
"'^"r
Ztl7o:i7
''f
/''^ ':
d aw tt
r '"^^
d::;;d'teT:::DUT
o ::;::
db
asl
lb
it
line 10,
'--'
^''' ^'''' '"'^'^^^^'^'
'-''''" '-'-^
'
^^'"
::itz
r
t"
?
10.
D-I, one or one and
'""^^
be,
-
"'"'''' '^""^ ^^^
line
The same
distance which
-dd on from O to R, and
^^^- ^^^ ^hape as marked b^ the
"^
must be decided how low the opening
should
''
^^^^ ^^^^^
'^ "^' ^ ^^ '
added to
; "'c"
ot^;
h'
the shoulder
from
S to
on
°1^^"''^S.
.
,
Next
'T
^-' 'r
^ '°
'
"" ^o out to
"^ ^'^'^ '''^
and when
this
^'--•'^-^ --^ ^e
^'^^^^^
^°P
^^^^
^'-
is
fixed
made
draw
ti
--^ ^-o-t
12
Low Neck Waist with Kd^in^
.
of
Fe&ther Trimming.
Hi?h
.
Short Waist
anil
-._
,1,/...
Low Cut
with Square
Cut Front.
Closinar Waist,
c;.,J,
in Xeck.
Pointed Waist, nitli Tulle.
The Basque
*
C^HE diagram
\^^
^f)>repeat
accompanying
this article presents a pointed basque produced by the
has already been explained how the upper part of the waist is to
be drafted, and as in this it is the same down to the waist, it is unnecessary to
S'ime System.
it
From
From
It
again.
down we place whatever length is wanted at the back to J on line B.
and 1|- the outside width of the back lines are drawn down, and whatever is
put on from S to back line must al.so be added from line at 30 to 2S. Then curve the lines.
On a short basque the back line does not touch the point J, as it must have less spring,
the waist
1
14
and therefore the width of back at S
inch on each side of straight lines.
From
may
J to
only a
is
2S curve up, to taste.
If
little
wanted
more than
at waist, or
about one-half
high curve at side, over the hips,
W'ith a
and when desired straight around the bottom, draw it along bottom
shown on other figures.
The side-body at bottom must start at S, level with 28, rising up towards R. Q is
even with R, and from it to O draw the line a little lower.
Point P is also level with O; thence, forward, it is drawn so that the front point is
either level with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the figure, where it is two inches
it
line,
reach above 28
;
or similar to a jacket, as
lower.
The
darts are placed the
as shown.
11, 12,
The
best
way
13 and 14, drawing
same
them
F
they curve,
lines
down from
as on a waist, but below the waist line
to produce a
good
result
is
to
draw straight
inside or outside of these lines, as shown.
It will
seen that 23 comes nearly in the centre of the second dart, because more curve
thus be
is
here
needed for the hips, while the space between the darts is drawn so that the distance
between 24 and 25 is only a little more than at 12 to 13. In this w^ay, when the darts are
sewn up they will take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece
between the darts.
When dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the arm draw a straight
Also
line down to 22, and let the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O.
take out about one-fourth inch above the waist line along the side-body seams, to curve
them more
From
to the shape.
15 to 20 a straight line
side of this line, over the hips, to
It
will
is
R
also drawn to
and Q.
be noticed that point IS
point S on Diag. 4; and point
side-body, at the waist,
is
1.5
is
made wider
is
in the
21,
and an equal amount
middle, between line
midway between IS and
;
the line from IS
is
line
put each
the line K, or
the width of the
always drawn straight down
is 20; and from 15,
then divide the distance from point 19 and 2, the centre of which
through 20, draw the line to 21, and curve the seams.
^.^^
E and
K;
is
;
15
The
Sleeve.
lOMMENCE
by drawing lines 0-E and 0-F. Use the armhole size to produce the
and go down from O to B one-fourth of this A is in the middle between O
and B. Draw lines across. From O to F is one-half of armhole, and from there
o)^
draw a line down to K. From B to F draw a straight line and half it, which will be point
H and from this last also draw a short line at right angles with the diagonal line from
H to J. Measure the length of line B-F and take one-third of it and place it from H to J.
Now, using J as pivot, sweep from line at top, point 4, around to the front and the back.
From B curve line past 5 to this sweep. Where the sweep crosses line at G, draw a line
down to K.
Go down from B to C three-fourths inch, and from here measure the length of arm
to E.
Mark a point midway between B and E, which gives D, and draw a line across.
J>
sleeve,
;
;
In the middle, between the two parallel lines at back,
square
arm
in
such a position on the pattern that
L
mark
a point /.
inches will touch point
then draw along the bottom, from
to/, and curve to N.
will touch/",
C, past
five
E
to N, and to/.
Now
lay the
E, and the long
Begin to curve from
Go in from D one and one-half inch and draw the front seam of the sleeve. From X,
where the curve strikes line B, begin to draw the under sleeve parallel with the upper
part from (> to 1.
Measure from B around the sleeve-head to C, and apply number of inches obtained
to X, and measure past I toward
the measure of armhole and two inches more.
If the
upper sleeve measures eleven inches, place eleven inches on to X and measure sixteen
inches, adding two inches more to line at 3 for a si.xteen-inch sleeve.
Wherever point 3 is
located begin to draw the back arm seam to bottom by running straight down, curving out
to 2, or as much inside of line 7 as /is outside of it.
We would advise the use of Diag. 7, as the manner of drafting there explained will
produce the best results but to those who may not understand it, we give a simpler
method on the following page.
."i,
;
16
The Sleeve.— Diag.
Draw
the line
one-half inch, and
line
8.
0-G and O-F (see Diag. 8). From O to C go down one-third, less
draw a line over to K. In the middle, between C and O, also draw a
from B to H.
From O to G is one-half of armhole size, which on a measure of IG-inch armhole
would be eight inches, or on a 14 seven inches, and draw a line from G downwards.
From C begin to curve the sleeve-top past I to H, touching the top line at I.
Be careful to flatten the curve from C to about halfway to I, and then give all the round.
From L to E apply the length of sleeve. Make F one and one-fourth inch lower down
than E.
From E
curving
it
to
N
is
inside of
M
an average of five inches. Draw a line from H past K to
and N,
about one-half inch and curve the line only a trifle below the elbow.
K
<?i
td
D one and one-half inch, and draw the inside seam from C to E. This
upper sleeve.
For the under sleeve draw from C, curving under straight line to L, thence to J.
Point J is one inch inside of H. From J draw down to within one-half inch of M and to
N. The front seam is the same as the upper sleeve from C to E and N.
In drawing any sleeve use the measure of the armhole, and bear in mind that this
manner of drafting has the seams already included.
To facilitate work in the busy season, it is judicious to have a set of sleeve patterns
ready cut such sleeves will require no change except, perhaps, shortening and lengthenGo
in
from
finishes the
—
ing at wrist.
^^^
It
Fig, 4.
Strip with Hooks and Eyes.
Fig. 3.
Fig. o.^Inside
How
to
View of Waist Uasttd
to Try On.
Sew on Hooks and Eyes,
Basting and Trying on the Waist.
FTER
all
the pieces are carefully cut out, then
commence
to baste
them
together.
seams; after that the back is put together, and last
the side seams, should be basted with the
seams on the outside, because there they can be taken in or let out more readily. On the
right front piece turn in a strong seam, while the left remains as an underlay.
To completely finish the front edge can only be done after a try-on.
As, however, we can only
judge as regards a good fit by having the waist closed up, therefore we have a strip of
cloth on which there are hooks and eyes, and this we sew on to the front in order to be
able to close it.
Such a strip can be used over and over again on different dresses. This
is shown by the above illustration. Fig. 4, as is also the manner of sewing on hooks and
First the darts, then the side
the shoulders.
eyes. Fig.
The
The
latter, as well as
.3.
is basted on to its lining, closed at the seams, and only fastened by pins
armhole after the waist is on the person. On high-priced goods it would be advantageous to add a large outlet to the seams so that they can be made larger if required.
The trying on must be carefully looked after. It may happen that on the side seam
or the shoulder seam some material may have to be taken in.
It is seldom, yet it may
occur, that the shoulder seam will require opening its whole length, and be smoothed up in
to the
sleeve
18
its
natural place.
closer to the neck,
Sometimes it may be better to let the forepart on the shoulder run up
and on the last cut-out and again it may require smoothing more
;
toward the armhole.
been fixed can we put on the sleeve, which is best pinned
must be regulated by the prevailing fashion, and
be tight or loose as desired. Mark on the armhole where the sleeves go in.
Only
on
after the waist has
like figure.
may
The width
of the sleeve
Fig. 6.
Trjing on the ITaist.
19
Inside of
High Waist Basque.
|N a previous page we explained the drafting
of
the waist.
The putting together
Now we
will
explain
and others,
are so familiar that they really need no separate explanation.
In sewing together
the separate seams of a waist or a basque, it is advisable to use silk, as the seams are much
stronger.
On thick material all seams are pressed out, and in doing this, do like tailors;
use a small piece of soap, and run down on the stitching on both sides, then with a
moderately heavy iron open the seams flat and evenly, which will not be difificult.
The fronts should be turned in on the wrong side, the bottom and back edges on the
right; then again use the soap and iron to get the edges firm and flat.
They should be
the finishing of the same.
The Inside
ol'
a
lii^'li
of blouses, princesses
Waist Basque.
faced with a narrow, double piece of linen, and hooks and eyes inserted between the linen
and cloth like Fig.
ugly gap down the
7,
being careful not to bring them too
much
forward, or there will be an
front.
When it is desired to finish the fronts with a fly, a separate piece is sewn together
gauged to the length and button-holes made, then sewed on to the edge, leaving enough
space so that it will not show on the outside, see Fig. 8.
Another way to sew on hooks and eyes is to leave the lining full enough so that it can
be plaited over about one-half inch, which covers the hooks and eyes. This is well illustrated by Fig. 9.
The great secret of making a waist fit perfectly, whether it is high or low cut, lies in
the art of joining and boning it.
In joining together there are certain parts which
require to be held tightly, that one portion appears quite full; there is the shoulder, which.
20
•'.'•""••/••v.'
JV»«V,'''*"?':i.*"';»;
•
21
for
about two or three inches, must be stretched so as to
fall
into the hollow without
causing wrinkles.
The next part is the front to the side-body at the under arm seam. Join evenly for
about three inches, then hold the front tight and put the side-body on slack ; this avoids
creases.
At the
front dart,
seam three
inches, then hold the front tighter or
it
may
wrinkle
;
the other parts should be joined fairly and equally.
But take care not to stretch the
rounded part of the back side piece which covers the shoulder-blade, as nothing is more
all
unsightly than the hunch-like protuberance noticed in badly
made
waists.
This and another grave fault, namely, a too narrow back caused by scooping out the
back of the armhole, which should be straight, often exposes the origin of a dress, which
might otherwise pass for the handiwork of a good tailor. Another important matter is
putting in the whalebones.
^^^
22
Fiff.
Inside of
10.
Inside of Dross Wiiisl
Low Keck
Waist.
j^5^N good work every seam
If any
is boned up to a couple of inches below the bust.
seams are omitted, let it be those of the back. The under arm and the bosom
i^)^ seams or darts cannot be omitted. Commence by pressing the seams open, then
run a galoon quite easily, but at the waist almost full; cut the bones to the length
required, making a hole at either end.
Put in the bone and sew firmly at the top then
press it upwards so that it is slightly bent or rounded.
This curve in the bone will fall into
the waist line, and add greatly to the close fit of the waist.
The neck band also requires putting on tightly just in front of the edge, but a trifle
easy near the shoulder seam. This is usually lined on the inside with silk. Fig. 11 represents the manner of putting on the band.
l^Sy
;
Fis. 11.
Manner of Putting on Xeck Band.
Plain and Train Skirts
UTTING
and making a
any or
sometimes conthis work
inexperienced hands and blocked out by a
is intrusted to
pattern which is considered to fit any form, which, of course, it
f
/
Many fine costumes lack tlie correct style because the
cannot do.
law for cutting skirts has not been observed.
The present fashion requiresthat the skirt should be
fitted with as much care as any other part of the dress.
All the fullness must be so arranged as to fall into the
back breadths of the skirt. The sloping of the bottom
must be correct, so as to give a straight, even effect
across the front and sides, and so arranged that
the back folds may hang out well.
The skirt of a walking dress, in order to be in
harmony with style, should adhere closely around
the sides and front, leaving all the fullness
/f^
sidered of very
in
little
skirt of
importance.
the back.
In order to gain the close
fit around the
rounded off at top between
the breadths, which reduces to the size
needed to fit the waist. As the hips
increase more or less, it must be
hips, the skirt
is
evident that in order that the skirt
may
fall
there
down over
the hips, the size
must be large
when the
waist
is
enough, and
small these
curves are greater at side.
The front width is cut
wide enough that only one
additional width is needed at
each side.
On stout
ladies extra care
must
be taken that the front
be also sufficient to
cover the round
form
the
of
body.
If
not
enough round is
given, the
will hitch
skirt
up on
the waistband.
Diag. 9
trating
illus-
a skirt,
represents in
reality a system
all
styles
is
By many dressmakers
2i
for cutting
them.
This
simple
is
in
The
which may be
construction and gives good results.
front and side gores with hip-fitting darts in them, a back breadth
skirt
has
folded or
gathered at the waistband.
All dress skirts must
first
The
fastened or shaped.
In producing the skirt
measure to get
inch,
all
by
Draw
front length of skirt.
quarters of an
have
this
overskirt
this
is
shape upon which the
a separate
System,
first
line across to E.
where another
the points.
line is
From F measure up
Draw the
to the
line
H
line
0-B.
From C to E is one-quarter
From E to F is also
first line
from
draw the
at point
through
F
From B
to
C
is
the
From C to D go up in every size threedrawn over to F. Now we use the waist
inches on a waist of twenty-four inches.
gives H.
plaits, or folds, or flounces are
affair.
H
of the waist, equal to six
one-quarter of the waist.
the whole waist, twenty-four inches, which
to the
bottom
of skirt at S.
25
F draw
a line at right angles with the last line, over, to get I, and
one inch less than half of the waist, or eleven inches. This will give
ample fullness for drapery, and not too much to gather in easily. The same distance as
from F to I place from S over to R, and through R and I draw a line, which crosses at O
Now draw another line from point O through E, which
the first line drawn from O to B.
From
place from
point
F
to get
I
reaches J at the bottom of the skirt.
Measure the length of the skirt from
O
sweep from
B to R, giving the lower edge. From the line at E curve the darts down to 1 by taking
out three-quarters of an inch on each side, and the same from F to 2 on the side gore.
The back breadth is left straight. From C curve to E, going below the line one-cjuarter of
an inch, and from E curve slightly to F.
In taking the length of a person measure from the natural waist to the instep for a
walking dress, or longer
in
medium
sized forms
if
is
the skirt
is
C
to B,
and by using
to cover the feet.
forty inches.
as a pivot,
In ladies' skirts the average length
Tall figures will require from forty-two to forty-
three inches.
We
give here the average lengths used for girls according to their ages
Nine
-3 inches long.
years
"
Ten
25
Eleven
"
Twelve
"
26^
28
Thirteen
"
30
Fourteen
"
32
"
35
Fifteen
The front gore
The back is usually
is
"
cut on the fold of the goods at the centre of the front on line C-B.
cut on the fold at the centre line I-R.
It is faced at
buckram, extending from si.x to twelve inches upward, corded and bound
and finished with a band at waist.
The Train
Skirt.
the bottom with
at its
lower edge,
Diag. 10.
The train skirt differs from the preceding in so far that from H to O an amount is left
on the side gore to cause the back breadth to swing back in a suitable manner. It is genthen starting from J the lower line is curved
erally ten inches more from the seam to O
down in order that point O may be long enough. The line from H to D must be as long
as H-0, and curve from D to I.
The lower curve depends upon the length added on, for
;
if
the length at
I is
D
increased greatly, the curve J to O, and
to I becomes greater.
showing the out and inside, the management of the
Illustrations of the skirt finished,
seams, putting in the pockets, the overskirt, motives for draping, as well as suggestions
about arranging
styles, etc., are
given
in
the following article.
•^•5**^
26
Figs. 12
mid
13.
Inside Ticns of the
or Wliere it
Vie. 14.
Back Draperies, shoniuf;
is
tlie Kliisties
aud Hooks,
Tightened Together.
Uuktic.
Skirt nith Inclosed
Steel Bands.
Draping and TrimmingO
of Dresses.
we have only paid attention to the cutting, fitting and plain finishing of dresses
Now we shall, in the articles following, endeavor to illustrate and exwaists.
Trimming means to fastne to a garment
plain the finishing and draping of skirts.
far
and
be required to meet style or the prevailing fashion. It may be a narrow
more than one at the bottom and again it may mean lace, jet or
Then again binding, braids, or embroideries may be used.
bullion.
To sew all these on we must have good silk, which is of the color to harmonize with
the material, and a great deal of care must be used to get a good effect.
If we mean to put on a fold or puff, then first baste it on, in order to see if it is in the
Only when this is
right place and looks well, and try the garment on a person or a form.
done, and the result satisfactory, can we sew it tight, and then with such stitches as are
The simple trimming of the front,
desired, either sewed by machine or by invisible felling.
such pieces as
may
or wide plaiting, or
;
and collar, with velvet, satin or different materials, requires no explanneck dress are usually only trimmed on the upper edge and the short sleeves,
and mostly with lace, which must be sewed on so that the stitches are not seen.
The skirt is seldom worn plain as it is cut. It is usually trimmed in different manners,
draped part put over it.
a
and
the cuffs of sleeves
Low
ation.
Fig. 16.
Manner of
l*iittiii;j
in the Steels in tbe
ol' tlie
To
give
it
the correct effect
it
requires
Back Part
Skirt.
first
a peculiar arrangement which regulates the
back part of the skirt. If the fashion demands more or less close drawing in, then there
must be some means attached by which it can be drawn in. Such are put in as illustrated
by the
figures.
To
prevent or evade any inconvenience in the wear of a close skirt, and yet to fully
produce it in harmony to fashion, there are steels put into the back skirt similar to Fig. 16.
These puff the drapery outwards and help much to give it a satisfactory appearance. One
or two of these are only necessary.
'^{^
Fig. 17.
Talile Folded up.
In draping
Some
it
18.
we must
first
Placint; tlie Dress on tiie'Tabl© to
of course carry in our
Lay
tlie
mind the
Folds.
effect
up as high as the waist.
so high because they have an overskirt which covers the upper part.
skirts that are plaited the plaits run
To
we wish to produce.
Some do not need
nothing is more useful than a board, over which the
This might be made with two legs attached at one end, like Fig. 17,
which stand upon the floor while the other end rests upon the table, see Fig. 18. This
simplifies the putting on of plaits or any other trimming a great deal.
skirt
At
new
easily effect all this draping
can be drawn.
the present
moment
fashion favors the dressmaker in a most kindly manner.
styles are so diversified that
it is
comparatively easy to select a style that
is
The
becoming.
28
Fig. 19.
Fig. 21.
Plaited Sliirt, with Buttoned Front.
Plaited Skirt, Back.
Fif.
Fig. 22.
Under Skirt.
-.'O.
Plaited Skirt, with Buttoned Front.
Fig. 2».
Plaited Skirt, Front.
29
Draperies which are complicated are fatal to most, for
however well the crarment is
made, badly arranged folds and drapings will ruin the
most careful work, and" spoil the
effect of the whole.
Many dressmakers, after years of labor and experience, are
still unable
to drape a skirt gracefully.
Of course, if you have a dress-stand you may after a few
trials
succeed m gettmg a drapery to hang well, but the
great error of the inexperienced is to
drape too much, or to loop fold upon fold in ungraceful
fashion.
Fig.
-J
4.
Pig. 25.
Directions for
Making a Plain
The
Skirt.
directions for making the foundation skirt
of a dress have been given among the
notes upon dressmaking, but as there are
so many difYerent modes of tnmmin<. skirts
a few directions may prove acceptable.
To cover with a kilting-f^rst, cut ten wfdths of
the material, twenty-seven inches
long, join; if the material has not a
self-colored selvage
the selvage must be cut off and the
edges must be over-sewn when joined; turn up
and
heni the lower edge by hand or machine;
if by hand, the stitches must
be almost invisible
on the right side. Begin kilting from
the hemmed edge, and plait each width to a
quarter
o a yard and about a quarter in
depth.
Have a needleful of tacking cotton, and tack each
plait as you make it, being sure
that all are equal in size finish the bottom
length.
Next
tack a second line along the middle,
arranging the plaits quite evenly, according
to the
first
;
30
Fig.
•id.
Fig. 28.
Xiiirun Side
Inside
I'laits.
Tiew of Train
Kig. il.
Skirt.
Fig. 29.
Box
uiid Side I'laits.
Outside View of Train Skirt.
31
grain of the material,
and so on
until
you
depth of your plaiting.
finish the
Now
take
cotton the color of the material and tack the plaits along the top edge; this done, press
if the material is thick and stubborn, damp it previous to ironing it.
with a hot iron
Turn down the top edge about half an inch, and tack it along with cotton of its color.
;
This done press the turn-down quite flat with a hot iron. Your kilting is now ready for
placing on the skirt the hemmed edge should be one-eighth of an inch above the bottom
;
of skirt.
popular;
Sew the kilting on by hand. Box-plaited skirts with tucks at the edge are very
to make one with three tucks, cut five breadths forty-five inches long, and five
breadths twenty-seven inches long
;
join
all
the long lengths together, then
all
the short
and join the short to the long. Now turn up the hem all around three inches deep.
if for hemming, pinning will be sufficient.
If for machining, it must be tacked
Take a
card
five
inches
in
depth,
and
make
of
quarter
piece
a mark on it three and a
inches from
ones,
;
Skirt
the bottom, put the
bottom
exact depth of the card.
card.
Next
fix
of the card to the
Now
bottom
of the
ivitli
Long Drapery Huttoiifd on.
hem, turn the material to the
tack your tuck to the three-and-a-quarter-inch mark on the
the second and third tucks by leaving one and a half inch between each
tuck, as only the stitches of the top tuck are usually
shown.
You
will easily
keep your
tucks even by cutting the card three inches deep, and marking it at one and a half inch.
Place one edge of card at the tacking of the tuck below the one you are fixing, turn the
tuck to the other edge of card. The tucks must now be stitched and pressed. You must
next double the five front breadths, putting in a pin to mark the middle of front. The
front middle plait is twelve inches in width
it takes rather more than one breadth for this
plait, as the folds must wrap over under the centre of plait at the back.
Leave spaces of
;
two inches each side of this
finished
they must be made
;
plait.
in
The two
side plaits
measure ten inches each when
the same manner as described for front
plaits.
The
five
32
back breadths must be plaited into three ten-inch plaits, with space as before. Now tack
these plaits, beginning at the hem, and tack the front breadths six times at regular
Press with a hot iron on the
intervals
for the back breadths four times will be sufificient.
wrong side. After pressing, keep the wrong side to you, and put two tapes across the
You must not
plaits at the front breadths, sewing the tapes to the back of the plaits.
One tape is to go
tighten the tape, nor must you take the stitches to the front of plaits.
The
across the middle of the plaits, and one between this and the top of the breadths.
foundation
front
breadth
of
of
take
the
middle
back plaitings will not need tapes. Next
and the middle of the front centre box-plait pin the plaiting to the foundation centre to
centre.
The bottom of the hem must fall one inch over a narrow kilting four inches deep
said kilting having been made after the
that the foundation skirt has been edged with
manner described above and of the same material or of a brighter color than dress if
The depth of this kilting can be arranged to suit
desired to correspond with trimmings.
individual fancy, it is intended to take away the plain look from the edge of skirt, and
all
;
;
;
Train, to Itutton.
Fig. 32.
Fig. 34.
Pifce to Button.
Inside
View of Fig. 82.
Fig. 33.
Onlinary Skirt, with Piece
attnilifil
to niHlic a Train.
fashion allows taste to decide.
and pin closely
foundation.
Place the foundation skirt and box-plaiting upon a table
hold the skirt up, shake
;
When you
are satisfied that
it,
it
and see that it is even before stitching
hangs evenly sew strongly.
it
to the
Draping the Overskirt.
To make an
For the
overskirt for the dress skirt suitable designs will be found in the illusti
one breadth of the material twenty-two inches long, ai
two breadths each sixteen inches long join these three breadths together straight at t
top, the long breadth in the middle.
Slope the middle breadth at the bottom so that
tions.
front drapery, cut
;
To put this drapery exactly in the proper curve, rui
beginning at the side seams nine inches below the waist, a
twenty inches below the waist in the center of front. Look well at the illustration, a
put the tacking-line in the same slope as is shown in the illustration both sides are al
graduates to the side breadths.
tacking thread on the
skirt,
;
33
bottom of front drapery. You will now find it necessary, for arranging the front
and back drapery properly, to put the skirt either on a stand or on a person. Fold the
drapery exactly in half, then pin it to the centre tacking-line and run it to the skirt, taking
sew both sides on and begin the plaiting at the waist, first
care not to tighten the drapery
at the
;
mark in the centre of the drapery.
number of small deep plaits, and pin it
whole of the right side of drapery
from the front to the seam
Now arrange the left side of drapery at about two inches from the
of the back breadth.
When this is plaited, fasten
front make five plaits close together about two inches deep.
the
waistband
to
the
foundation
below
there
will
be
a straight unplaited piece
just
it
plaits
to
the
seam
of
back
breadth
these
of
foundation
now take the end of the
from
and
plait
it
up
toward
The
the waist.
drapery must fall quite loosely over the
drapery
sew the drapery strongly to the foundation just below
line it was tacked on at the bottom
putting a
into a
Plait the
to the foundation
;
;
;
;
Fig. 85.
the waistband, where
or binding over
it.
it
Inside of Skirt willi Half Train.
has been pinned, and
The
sides will be
made
make it neat by hemming a piece of ribbon
when placing the back drapery over them.
neat
Take three yards
of the material cut in two, join them together and press the seam, turn
under at each side at least three inches. Plait the drapery into a large triple box-plait
wide enough to cover the back as far as the joins of the side drapery. The middle of this
box-plait must go exactly to the middle of the back
pin it there firmly.
On the left side
sew the turn-down piece over the ends of the front drapery. The middle of this box-plait
must go exactly to the middle of the back pin it there firmly. On the left side sew the
turn-down piece over the ends of the front drapery. Carry the plait down seventeen
inches, turn under eight inches, so that it forms a deep puff
sew this plait under the puff
;
;
;
to the skirt
and
the outer plait an inch from the edge down to the skirt. The
remainder of this side of the drapery must be turned under to form a second deep puff,
slip-stitch
34
the right side
which should terminate nine inches above the foot of the skirt. Now go to
must be
which
loose,
hanging
centre
the
leave
will
this
and loop it up in the same way
lower
Plait
the
waist.
the
below
inches
twenty-four
looped up and sewn to the skirt about
at
than
centre
the
in
lower
inches
three
fall
end of drapery, turn it under, allowing it to
etc.)
2-i,
(See Figs.
25,
the sides; sew firmly to the skirt.
fourteen
For the pocket, take a piece of the bodice lining fifteen inches long and
of
triangle
a
form
to
together
corners
inches wide, double this lengthwise, turn over two
;
up the slanted top of the pocket with a piece of the dress
and along the bottom,
material, turn the faced side out. and stitch down the short side
the last stitching.
from
inch
turn the pocket and stitch again about a quarter of an
pick out seven
and
waist,
Unpick the side seam of skirt, commencing ten inches below the
so that the
pocket
and one-half inches of the seam. Turn the skirt inside out, sew in the
six inches, cut
them
off,
face
At the top of the pocket a piece of tape ten inches
facing shows on the right side of skirt.
lontT must be sewn to it, and afterwards fastened to the waistband.
Fia.
3().
>
ion of
Iiisiili',
as
VnUU
I se<l
on
Fig. 3;
Tiirninf! to the
Itni'K
Skirt.
Folds Turned Oiltsido for
Long Trains.
improvement plaited in the back of a skirt, even when steels, and
a dress improver or bustle are worn. Take three breadths of crinoline, join them together,
turn up a hem so that they will be fourteen inches deep, plait in three double box-plaits,
Crinoline
is
a great
allowing the centre plait a little larger than those at the sides, bind it along the top with a
piece of tape, sew it to the inside of foundation-skirt just on the lowest steel casing, and
sew it down the sides to seam of skirt. To make the dress improver, take a piece of
bodice linin^ and make a bag measuring nine inches across the bottom and sevtn inches
across the top, seven inches deep leave the top unsewn, fill it with horsehair and turn in
the top and sew it closely. To keep the horsehair in its place take a needle and thread
;
and knot
it
at intervals quite
through as a mattress is knotted. This is sewn to eye side
band put a hook on the loose side of improver
of band, putting the centre to centre of
and an eye on the band of
skirt to fasten
;
it
to.
35
Variety of
Bows of Ribbon Used on
Full Dress.
36
I'ig.
38.
Inside^of a Jacki-t, nil hunt Lining.
Finishing the Jacket.
^^^HE
garments are faced with the same material or lining, and a
The seams have a strip
'^^5v
of ItaHan cloth or silk sewn in, which, when the seams are pressed out, is turned
over and felled, thus covering them completely.
After all the seams are covered, a band is sewn on to the back seams, which is used
The edge around the bottom is
to tie around the waist to hold it close to the body.
turned in on the right side, and the lace, or whatever other trimming put on over it.
41^^
front edge of these
strip of linen to
strengthen the buttons put in between.
Fig. 39.
Inside of a Wrap.
The
garment
separate pieces of a blouse are sewed together as the different styles of this
may
The
require.
front
edge
is
underlaid with lining or better linen, that the
buttons and button-holes may be strong. The lower edge is hemmed. The collar is
The seams can be turned and felled on the inside, which gives them a good finish.
lined.
If the upper part only is lined, then the lining is finished at its lower edge by a hem,
or merely notched to keep
purpose.
The
front
may
In regard to the lower
it from raveling.
The long seams are serged for the same
be finished by placing the button-hole through (see Fig. 3S).
edge of
this
garment
it is
finished similar to a dress skirt.
38
fig. 42.
Blouse, giiUioied in Front and
Batk,
FiS. 43.
Fig. 45.
Blouse with Plaits
and (iathers.
Fii-.
Ai.
Hlouse, «itll
Stitclied Plaits.
Blouse Waist, nilli Double Collar.
Fig.
4fi.
Blouse Waist, with Laid Plaits.
89
Button-Holes.
i^Ji^HERE are many different kinds of button-holes, but only such are made in a dress
iiCl as mav
material.
The cutting of the button-hole, however,
may be suitable for the materia
^^ must be done very carefully, and just large enough to correspond with the button
There are button-hole shears in the market which are easy to use,
size, and are really reliable, and a great aid in cutting.
The plain button-hole. Fig. 52, is sewn with strong twist of the color of the material.
On material which does ravel, a thread simply run around it, will answer the purpose
of holding it, and then the button-hole is made as usual.
For one like this
Fig. 54: shows a button-hole which is used altogether on firm cloth.
a plain cut is not sufficient, but a round should be cut out in order to produce an opening
for the button, as shown.
Bound holes are used generally on mantles, etc., and the illustrations clearly show the
manner of making them, and we think there will be no failure in producing them if the
which
is
to be used.
can be gauged to any
illustrations are studied.
I'TOiiiiJirMmiiBi
Tffl
j£
T
I
iiiiiiiiiii
I
IBiiliil
^,^
'W
w
^f a
I
40
41
Trimming's.
o
The
style,
following illustrations will be found to be very suggestive, not only as regards
but in the manner of making up garments as well.
Ouulilu Slriii^ >uth
liui'liiuu;.
IIoiY to
Lay and Fasten Plaits.
ileiii.
42
<"^>
>s.
laiiily
\
Folded Jturlie of OuiiMe KoldtMl iinods.
V
Manner of
lloldiiitr aii<l IJatlierhiz^ Ito\-Plnite<l KiiHU^.
riainly Folded lEuolu'.
:;^?j?;j;3Jj«cs^^c^\^^
Box-rilit
\
',,
SJ$S&s^
Itullk-
43
KtMliirt'il
VifM
-m.
(if
IMaitintfs.
Side Vi('» oT I'laits as I'lislenod togetlicr.
fliiiiiiWiifl^
44
Dillerent Styles of Triramin? for Dresses.
45
J
V
:,.,"
'i
;" .»iiw/*^»'rv»^^!^^
nifferent Styles of Triininini: for Dresses.
I>ouIjIc
Box-plaits.
46
Bo\-riaits and Small IMaits.
NarroH
Plait.s.
47
48
Gutting Ladies" Garments.
t
(^^
T OUR CTJTTIMG ROOMS instructioim uro giuen
We teach each student uidividnaUy. The price
'K
is
students,
$30.00
the course, are holding situations, mostly in
establishments of dresses
so iJioroughly perfect
and
our
cloaks, at higli salaries,
siiidcjits
di'sire to
;
the price for which
To those u'ho wish
perso7iaZ instruction,
to
that they
i^hall be
and our aim
is
all
and
to
time,
Ml
is, iji
every case, to
any
we teach
cloaJc business,
kinds of Patterns in Hie most correct
i-iiiiation.
$25.00.
acquire the full knowledge of all garment cutting xvithout
we have for
ivill
be sent by
Wraps
mail
to
or
sale
a
book,
"The Cloak
and Suit Cutter," which
Dolmans-
The book
is
nicely bound, fully illustrated,
any address at the moderate
cost
every m.crchant tailor in the land.
it
be
and
of $10.00.
The success of Hecklinger's System of Cutting Ladies' Garments
nearest tailor
in
and astured
teaches everything necessary for the production of Ladies' Garments, whether
Dresses, Jackets,
our
manufacturing
capable of holdivg
enter the ready-made dress
addition the science of Grading
manner
of a course, not limited'
for learning the Cutting of Dresses, Jackets and Cloaks.
who completed
To enable such as
daihj by teachei's of experience.
is
attested by
If you have any doubt about it, just go to your
will tell you our System is the one univers-
and inquire of him, and he
•"
ally used by all tailors.
Patterns are also furnished from our house, such as Jackets, Cloaks, Dolmans
Dresses, at reasonable rates, price lists of
Remember
which
will be sent
and
on application.
the address.
CHAS. HECKLINGER,
135 East Eighth
Street, 3 Doors from
Broadway,
NE\V YORK.
LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS
'ilflllillPlli'i'lfili'lliifi'lfi
e 014 062 025 7
im
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
014 062 025 7
'.V
A*
Hollinger Corp.
pH
8.5
Was this manual useful for you? yes no
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Download PDF

advertisement