2005-up Ford Mustang 10-POINT ROLL CAGE
Please read the instructions completely BEFORE starting this project.
Competition Engineering 10-Point Roll Cages are not designed for use in vehicles where the stock
floor has been removed. Check your sanctioning body's rulebook for installation guidelines.
To help you install this 10-Point Roll Cage; we've provided you with this step-by-step instruction
manual. These directions are a general guideline for a typical roll cage installation and are not written
specifically for your application. If you have installed a roll cage before, this will be a quick refresher
The installation process will involve fitting the bar components into the racecar, notching the tube
ends, trimming the bars to fit and then tack welding the tubing together before making the final welds. By
following this procedure, any minor mistakes can be corrected easily and with the smallest loss of
valuable time.
This Roll Bar has been designed specifically for the 2005-up Mustang application. Some of the tubes
will require notches, and some minor trimming to meet your specific needs. Refinement of the notches
should be done as carefully as possible. We recommend using a hand grinder or if possible a hole saw
type tube notcher to prepare the ends of the tube for proper fit. The notches should allow for a slight gap
to help maximize weld penetration. Also make sure to dress the notched end of the tube with a grinder
or hand file to remove burrs and provide a chamfer for improved weld appearance.
We recommend that all welds be done with the approved MIG or TIG welding process. A machine with
130-amps or higher should be used. DO NOT USE FLUX CORE WIRE TO WELD THIS ROLL BAR.
If you are unsure about your welding abilities, have a professional welder complete the installation.
Follow all safety guidelines that are provided with the equipment you are using. Always wear eye
For Technical Assistance, call Competition Engineering's Tech Line at
(203) 458-0542, 8:30am-5:00pm Eastern Time
80 Carter Drive • P.O. Box 1470 • Guilford CT 06437
Phone: (203) 453-6571 • Fax: (203) 458-3581
Rev C
Visit Us At www.competitionengineering.com
Installation Instructions cont. 10-Pt Roll Cages
Page 2 of 8
I. Material parts list with identifying names
II. List of tools required
III. Step-by-step instructions
IV. Illustrations for reference
1) Main Hoop
2) Rear Struts
1) Main Harness Crossbrace
12) Gussets
2) Main Hoop Plates
2) Main Hoop Supports 39" Long
1) Top Eyebrow Bar
2) Door Struts
2) Forward Downstruts
2) 6"x6" Plates
2) Rear Strut Plates
Power Band Saw or Hand hacksaw to shorten tubing
Body Grinder with coarse wheel to remove paint and rust. Also to refine tube notches.
MIG or TIG Welder with 130 amp minimum rating
Protective Face Shield for grinding and welding
Sheetmetal Shears to modify or remove interior panels.
Die Grinder or Electric Drill with rotary file to notch tube ends.
Tape Measure, Hammer, C-Clamps, Locking Pliers, Magic Marker
4 Jack Stands to support vehicle
Carpenter's Level and Angle Finder
Bench Vise to hold tubing while grinding and cutting.
For a professional looking installation we highly recommend the following materials and tools:
.030"-.035" Mild steel welding wire
Thin cardboard to cover the windows. This protects the glass from welding and grinder sparks.
80-Grit sandpaper to remove paint and light surface rust
Holesaw type tube notcher
Scrap pieces of sheetmetal to protect the headliner during welding.
Installation Instructions cont. 10-Pt Roll Cages
Page 3 of 8
1. Always disconnect both battery cables before welding
2. Always check for fuel lines under the vehicle before welding; remove or isolate as necessary
3. Begin the installation process by removing the interior from the vehicle. This includes both front and
rear seats, carpet and sound deadening.
4. Install the protective cardboard over all exposed interior glass. Don't forget to cover-up your gauges
and radio if they are installed. Grinder and welding sparks go everywhere.
5. Jack-up the vehicle and support it in four places with approved jack stands. You want to take extra
time to make sure the vehicle is level from front to back and side to side. Steel shims can be used
between the jackstands and the chassis to achieve proper level.
NOTE: Do not let the chassis droop on the jackstands. If this is allowed to happen during the roll
cage installation this droop will become permanent.
6. We are now going to trial fit the main hoop. Take a measurement from the headliner to the mounting
point for the base of the main hoop. Turn the main hoop upside down on the shop floor and measure
from the floor to the end of the hoop leg. Mark the hoop legs at the dimension you measured in the
car. Cut the tubes at this mark. (For the 2005-up Mustang- the main hoop for the cage can pass thru
the factory drain holes and floor plate to mate up with Competition Engineering # C3142 frame
connectors. To do so remove the factory drain plugs from the floor pans. Clean any attaching area
for welding. Our frame connector will be the main attaching point of the main hoop in conjunction
with the floor plates. If not using Competition Engineering frame connectors, the main hoop must be
welded to the included floor plates.)
7. With the driver's seat installed and the driver seated with helmet on, determine the position of the
main hoop.
NOTE: It is recommended that the main hoop be no further than 6" from the back of the driver's
helmet (check your sanctioning bodies rulebook).
Trial fit the main hoop in the car. Try to align the vertical positions of the main hoop with the door
pillar. Make sure it is centered in the vehicle by measuring from the door jam to the edge of the hoop
on each side. If it fits snug, mark the leg positions on the floor with a marker. Remove the hoop from
the car. (If using connectors measure from the topside of the connector tube to headliner and follow
previous instructions. Angle the main hoop to match door line.)
8. Place the main hoop flat on the floor and stand the top hoop on the main hoop so that the open ends
of the tubes make contact just below the "A" bends. Check the fit. Modify the ends to achieve a good
weld joint.
9. Grind the area marked in Step 5 so that you can install the supplied steel floor plates.
10. Position two of the plates on the floor under the area of the main hoop legs. Tack weld them in place.
(remove or completely isolate fuel lines under floor)
11. Re-install the main hoop in the car and tack weld it to the previously installed plates. Re-check the
position of the main hoop. (If using Competition Engineering frame connectors drop hoop through
drain holes and tack weld main hoop to the frame connector joints as well as the floor plate. remove
or completely isolate fuel lines under floor)
Installation Instructions cont. 10-Pt Roll Cages
Page 4 of 8
12. We are now going to install the rear struts. The rear struts connect the main hoop with the rear frame
at the upper spring mounts. They should be installed parallel to each other and directly over the rear
frame rails.
a. Drop a plumb bob down from the top of the main hoop even with the outside of the rear frame
rails and mark the position on the hoop. This is the outside mounting point for the rear struts.
b. Take a measurement from the mark on the main hoop to the desired end point for the rear struts.
c. Cut the struts to this dimension. Remember to take into account the angle needed, if any, on the
end of the tube.
d. For rear trunk plate mounting points. Place mounting plate over attaching point, now mark and
prep the area for welding (remove seam sealer/paint.) The plates are to be located as far back to
the tail panel as possible. The hole in the plate should line up with the factory stud sticking up.
Using a cut off wheel remove existing stud or trim it back to allow stud to pass thru mounting plate
and allow sufficient height to weld to. Now tack and weld completely around the trunk plate, be
sure when welding to keep the heat from welding within the mounting plate and not to the cars
thinner sheet metal, this may structurally weaken your welding points. Tack weld the rear struts in
13. With the driver seated, measure for the height of the main hoop harness bar. This is the tube that
mounts between the legs of the main hoop and supports the driver's seat in the event of impact. It
also acts as a structural member for the shoulder harness. Follow your sanctioning body's guideline
for correct placement.
a. Cut the un-notched end of the tube to the correct dimension taking into account the notch that
needs to be added to the end of the tube (typically 5/8" extra).
b. Trial fit the crossbrace and tack in place if the fit is correct. Make sure that the tube is level.
14. Now install the two forward downstruts. These tubes attach to the main hoop as close to the highest
part of the main hoop as possible. Their position has a direct relationship on the driver's visibility so
space them as far apart as possible and as close to the windshield posts as possible. (See strut
diagram for ideal trimmed length). Trim length accordingly so that horizontal section contacts the
main hoop.
a. Determine the location of the tubes and where they will meet the floor. Clean this area on the
floor and tack weld another set of 6" x 6" plates.
b. Trial fit the downstrut tubes to determine how much, if any, needs to be trimmed from the end of
the tube. Make sure that the notch fits properly and that you can weld the joint completely.
c. Tack weld the tubes in place. (Remove or completely isolate fuel lines under floor).
d. Position eyebrow bar at the intersection of the horizontal section and the angled section (pointing
toward the dashboard), making sure that the eyebrow bar does not obstruct the drivers view (see
15. The next part of the installation is the main hoop supports. These tubes span from the intersection of
the main hoop and main hoop crossbrace to the top of the subframe connector or rear frame rail
near the front ladder bar or 4-link brackets. These supports will improve chassis reaction time and
make the car less flexible.
a. Determine the route for the tube. Make a template of the notch required on the ends of the tube
using a piece of paper wrapped around the end of the tube. Slide the paper up into the location
for the notch and mark the contours on the paper. Trim the paper as if it were the piece of tube
being notched. Refine the cut in the paper until your have a perfect fit. Transfer this shape to the
end of the main hoop supports.
b. Trial fit the tube to the car. Tack weld in place.
Installation Instructions cont. 10-Pt Roll Cages
Page 5 of 8
17.The last part of the roll cage to be installed is the door bars. The door bar spans from the main hoop
to the intersection of the front downstruts and the floor plate. Most sanctioning bodies require that
the door bar passes by the driver at a point between the shoulder and the elbow. The driver should
be seated in the car to properly locate the door bars. Follow your sanctioning body's guideline for
correct placement.
a. The front of the door bar is to be located at the bottom of the front downstrut where it meets the
floor plate. Notch and fit the front of the door bar so that it gets welded to both the floor plate and
the front downstrut.
b. Notch the back of the door bar to fit against the main hoop. Work slowly and carefully here,
mistakes happen easily on this type of notch.
c. When you are satisfied with the fit, tack weld the bar in place (remove or completely isolate fuel
lines under floor).
Tip: Door bars - Trim the door bars to lie on the floor plate and mate with forward strut. Make sure there
is sufficient clearance between the door panel and door bars with the doors closed, otherwise contact
with the door panel may occur. Fit up door bar to floor plate and main hoop, mark the favored position.
18. With all the roll cage tubes tack welded in place, proceed to check each union to ensure that no tack
welds have broken. Secondary tack welds are placed at every union and at areas where previous
tack welds have been completed. You can obtain the best results by following this procedure.
Begin by placing additional tack welds opposite existing tack welds. You will need between two and
three tacks around each tube to prevent the cage from drawing.
Secondary tacks should also be placed in areas that will be difficult to reach during finish welding.
Other areas for secondary tack welds will include tubes that don't fit tightly or are in areas where the
tubes form a deep angle.
19. Finally, we come to the last major step: finish welding all frame substructures and floor plates. This
should be done from side to side and top to bottom of each union, starting from the inboard and
working your way outward to the rocker sill area. Be sure each connection is free from grease, oil or
dirt; this will make the end result much better visually and structurally.
Finish weld the entire roll cage in the same order you installed each component part. Work on the
center section first, then move on to the rear and then the front sections, using the same side to side,
top to bottom welding method. If you are not able to weld completely around a joint, a gusset must
be used on both sides of the incomplete weld. If any porosity is encountered during welding, grind it
out and re-weld. Be sure to check each joint for complete welds around the circumference of the
tube joint. With the welding completed, the roll cage can be degreased, sanded and painted.
Tip: To fit stock rear package tray back into car: Trace the holes cut into metal rear deck frame,
for the rear struts, onto the package tray itself. You can use Competition Engineering Firewall / Tray
kit part# C4990, aluminum kit to meet sanction body requirements.
Now install the rear struts and tack them in place. Now continue with the previous steps to complete
Tip: The main hoop can be dropped thru the drain holes in order to tack and weld the rear struts to
the main hoop before the front struts and door bars are tacked in place.
Installation Instructions cont. 10-Pt Roll Cages
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Installation Instructions cont. 10-Pt Roll Cages
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Installation Instructions cont. 10-Pt Roll Cages
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