S&S Cycle, Inc. 235 Causeway Blvd. La Crosse, Wisconsin 54603

S&S Cycle, Inc. 235 Causeway Blvd. La Crosse, Wisconsin   54603
S&S Cycle, Inc.
Instruction 51-1124
Copyright © 2002, 2006
by S&S Cycle, Inc.
All rights reserved.
Printed in the U.S.A.
235 Causeway Blvd.
La Crosse, Wisconsin 54603
Phone: 608-627-1497 • Fax: 608-627-1488
Technical Service Phone: 608-627-TECH (8324)
Technical Service Email: [email protected]
Website: www.sscycle.com
Because every industry has a leader
Assembly and Installation Instructions:
S&S® 41⁄8” Bore V-Series Engines
S&S parts are designed for high performance, off road, racing
applications and are intended for the very experienced rider only. The
installation of S&S parts may void or adversely effect your factory
warranty. In addition such installation and use may violate certain
federal, state, and local laws, rules and ordinances as well as other laws
when used on motor vehicles used on public highways, especially in
states where pollution laws may apply. Always check federal, state, and
local laws before modifying your motorcycle. It is the sole and exclusive
responsibility of the user to determine the suitability of the product for
his or her use, and the user shall assume all legal, personal injury risk and
liability and all other obligations, duties, and risks associated therewith.
Statements in this instruction sheet preceded by the following words
are of special significance.
The words Harley®, Harley-Davidson®, H-D®, Sportster®, Evolution®, and
all H-D part numbers and model designations are used in reference only.
S&S Cycle is not associated with Harley-Davidson, Inc.
Before installing your new S&S part it is your responsibility to read and
follow the installation and maintenance procedures in these
instructions and follow the basic rules below for your personal safety.
● Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain
conditions and toxic when inhaled. Do not smoke. Perform installation
in a well ventilated area away from open flames or sparks.
● If motorcycle has been running, wait until engine and exhaust pipes
have cooled down to avoid getting burned before performing any
installation steps.
● Before performing any installation steps disconnect battery to
eliminate potential sparks and inadvertent engagement of starter while
working on electrical components.
● Read instructions thoroughly and carefully so all procedures are
completely understood before performing any installation steps.
Contact S&S with any questions you may have if any steps are unclear
or any abnormalities occur during installation or operation of
motorcycle with a S&S part on it.
Means there is the possibility of injury to yourself or others.
Means there is the possibility of damage to the part or motorcycle.
Other information of particular importance has been placed in italic type.
S&S recommends you take special notice of these items.
All S&S parts are guaranteed to the original purchaser to be free of
manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a period of
twelve (12) months from the date of purchase. Merchandise that fails
to conform to these conditions will be repaired or replaced at S&S’s
option if the parts are returned to us by the purchaser within the 12
month warranty period or within 10 days thereafter.
In the event warranty service is required, the original purchaser must
call or write S&S immediately with the problem. Some problems can be
rectified by a telephone call and need no further course of action.
A part that is suspect of being defective must not be replaced by a
Dealer without prior authorization from S&S. If it is deemed necessary
for S&S to make an evaluation to determine whether the part was
defective, a return authorization number must be obtained from S&S.
The parts must be packaged properly so as to not cause further damage
and be returned prepaid to S&S with a copy of the original invoice of
purchase and a detailed letter outlining the nature of the problem, how
the part was used and the circumstances at the time of failure. If after
an evaluation has been made by S&S and the part was found to be
defective, repair, replacement or refund will be granted.
● Consult an appropriate service manual for your motorcycle for correct
disassembly and reassembly procedures for any parts that need to be
removed to facilitate installation.
(1) S&S shall have no obligation in the event an S&S part is modified by
any other person or organization.
● Use good judgement when performing installation and operating
motorcycle. Good judgement begins with a clear head. Don't let
alcohol, drugs or fatigue impair your judgement. Start installation
when you are fresh.
(2) S&S shall have no obligation if an S&S part becomes defective in
whole or in part as a result of improper installation, improper
maintenance, improper use, abnormal operation, or any other misuse
or mistreatment of the S&S part.
● Be sure all federal, state and local laws are obeyed with the
● For optimum performance and safety and to minimize potential
damage to carb or other components, use all mounting hardware that
is provided and follow all installation instructions.
(3) S&S shall not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages
resulting from the failure of an S&S part, the breach of any warranties,
the failure to deliver, delay in delivery, delivery in non-conforming
condition, or for any other breach of contract or duty between S&S and
a customer.
● Motorcycle exhaust fumes are toxic and poisonous and must not
be inhaled. Run motorcycle in a well ventilated area where fumes
can dissipate.
(4) S&S parts are designed exclusively for use in Harley-Davidson® and
other American v-twin motorcycles. S&S shall have no warranty or
liability obligation if an S&S part is used in any other application.
Pinion Bearing Roller Diameter
41⁄8" bore engine instructions often refer to procedures described
in other S&S® instructions or a Harley-Davidson® Service Manual.
These materials should be cross-referenced as necessary.
Bearing Color Code
S&S strongly recommends trial-fitting every engine before frame
is painted or powder coated.
In some instances, brake master cylinder must be spaced out
from frame to clear crankcase. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES
transferred to brake fluid may expand and cause brakes to seize,
resulting in possible fire hazard and loss of control of motorcycle
with injury or death to rider and others.
● Lubrication - S&S supplies Torco Engine Assembly Lube with
each engine. It should be used as specified in following
instructions. While other brands of assembly lube are
acceptable, other lubricants are not. In no instance should an
aerosol lubricant be substituted for assembly lube.
● Engine tuning - Ignition timing and carburetor jetting
are responsibilities of the customer. If not thoroughly
familiar with these procedures, he should contact a
professional mechanic.
Incorrect ignition or carburetor tuning can cause extensive
engine damage not covered under warranty.
S&S® #31-4016
H-D® #24628-87A
S&S® #31-4005
H-D® #24626-87A
S&S® #31-4018
H-D® #24643-87A
S&S® #31-4017
H-D® #24628-87A
All 41⁄8" bore engines are designed for frames that accept 1984-'99
big twin engines, and will fit stock Harley-Davidson® and similar
frames without modification.
Because the 41⁄8" bore crankcase is 1⁄4 inch wider than stock, fit of
exhaust, rear brake master cylinder, and foot controls must be
closely checked when installing the 41⁄8" bore engine. Some
components may require modification.
Roller Size
Powder coating and polishing - While S&S does manufacture
some powdercoated engines, it does not recommend having
engine parts powdercoated or otherwise modified
elsewhere. Many such procedures leave abrasive residues
which are difficult to remove completely. Also, powder
coating is cured at high temperatures that can change the
strength characteristics of some metals.
Glass bead and polishing residues are abrasive and can be
difficult to remove from recesses and small passages.
Abrasive residues can cause oil contamination and extensive
engine damage. Engine damage caused by powder coating,
polishing, glass bead blasting, or other modification will not
be covered under warranty.
NOTE - While S&S has made every effort to insure that parts are
correct, it is the engine builder’s responsibility to confirm fit and
finish of all parts provided with engines prior to assembly. Parts
are deburred at S&S and usually require no further preparation,
but must also be inspected by installer. Individual parts should not
be removed from protective plastic wrappers until needed. After
removal from plastic, it is imperative that parts be thoroughly
cleaned and dried, preferably with compressed air. When
present, rust preventative must be completely removed.
Additionally, gaskets must be closely inspected for particles that
could become dislodged and damage engine. If assembly of
engine must be interrupted, seal openings and cover engine with
plastic to protect from destructive contaminants.
S&S® Pinion Shaft Main Bearing Fitting Charts
Chart 1
Big Twin Bearing Race
1.7511 to 1.7513
1.7509 to 1.7511
1.7507 to 1.7509
Chart 2
Pinion Shaft Bearing Diameter
1.2498 - 1.2500
1.2500 -1.2502
S&S® #31-4017
H-D® #24628-87A
S&S® #31-4018
H-D® #24643-87A
S&S® #31-4018
H-D® #24643-87A
S&S® #31-4005
H-D® #24626-87A
S&S® #31-4005
H-D® #24626-87A
S&S® #31-4016
H-D® #24628-87A
Bearing Race Diameter
Minus Pinion Shaft
Bearing Diameter
.5005 to .5009
.5007 to .5011
.5009 to .5013
.5011 to .5015
Bearing Color Code
S&S® #31-4016
H-D® #24628-87A
S&S® #31-4005
H-D® #24626-87A
S&S® #31-4018
H-D® #24643-87A
S&S® #31-4017
H-D® #24641-87A
All reference to Harley-Davidson® part numbers is for identification purposes only. We in no way are implying that any of S&S® Cycle’s products are
original equipment parts or that they are equivalent to the corresponding Harley-Davidson® part number shown.
Picture 1
Picture 2
Failure to observe the previous instructions may result in
engine damage not covered under warranty.
Subtract pinion shaft bearing surface diameter from
pinion bearing race inside diameter.
Select range in left “Bearing Race Diameter minus
Pinion Shaft Bearing Diameter” column where
difference best splits high and low parameters of range.
Corresponding color bearing set in right “Bearing Color
Code” column provides proper fit for regular service.
Confirm pinion shaft main bearing fit. Correct size bearing is
supplied with engine, but must be verified by engine builder.
Flywheel assembly can then be prepared for installation.
● Refer to information tag on crankcases for final honed size
of pinion shaft main bearing race.
● S&S® pinion shaft main bearing fitting charts #1 and #2 use
Harley-Davidson® bearing color codes.
● All measurements must be taken with parts at room
temperature, approximately 70° F.
Fitment Method A - Use Chart 1.
Refer to information tag on crankcases to determine
final honed size of inside diameter of pinion shaft main
bearing race.
Measure pinion shaft bearing surface diameter.
Cross reference pinion race inside diameter with pinion
shaft bearing surface outside diameter to determine
correct color code.
EXAMPLE - Pinion shaft bearing surface diameter measures
1.2499” and is between 1.2498” and 1.2500” in left “Pinion Shaft
Bearing Diameter” column. Pinion bearing race inside diameter
is 1.7510” and falls between 1.7509” and 1.7511” in middle
“Bearing Race Diameter” column. Correct bearing color code
where two columns intersect is “BLUE”. Selecting color where
columns intersect provides proper fit for normal service. If looser
fit is desired, select bearing color directly to right of color
indicated from selection process. If color indicated from selection
process is located in right color column, go to next row directly
below and select color in left color column.
EXAMPLE - Pinion bearing race inside diameter is 1.7510”. Pinion
shaft bearing surface diameter is 1.2499”. 1.7510” minus 1.2499”
is .5011”. Difference of .5011” splits .5009” to .5013” range in
third row exactly. Corresponding “BLUE” color code in right
column should be used. Notice that .5011” fits in several range
groups. Try to select group where difference falls closest to
middle of range. If you are not sure, select color that corresponds
with group closer to top of chart. This will provide slightly looser
bearing fit and help prevent bearing seizure. Selecting next color
up on chart may also be done if looser fit is desired for
competition applications.
Fitment Method B - Use Chart 2.
Refer to information tag on crankcases to determine
final honed size of inside diameter of pinion shaft main
bearing race.
Measure pinion shaft bearing surface diameter.
NOTE - S&S crankcases are sold in matched sets only. Individual
case halves are not available.
Disassemble crankcases & wash in hot, soapy water. Rinse
case halves and blow dry with compressed air. Check all
internal passages. Coat bearing surfaces with a light oil to
prevent rust.
Install piston oilers - right-side crankcase.
Lubricate O-ring with engine oil and install in
piston oiler.
Apply Loctite® 243 to screws. Install oilers, tighten screws
to 25 in-lbs. See Picture 1.
Thoroughly clean parts according to instructions previously
mentioned. Apply coat of assembly lube to bearing surface
of sprocket shaft and inner race of Timken® bearing. Install
bearing on shaft with appropriate tool. See Picture 2.
NOTE - S&S does not recommend using a press to install sprocket
shaft bearings, as this can push flywheels out of true. Correct
bearing installation tools are available from Harley-Davidson®
and other sources.
Picture 4
Picture 3
Apply coat of assembly lube to Timken® bearing installed
in Step 1.
Place left side crankcase half on sprocket shaft and bearing,
insuring that connecting rods are in correct positions.
See Picture 3.
Install included Timken® bearing spacer. See Picture 4.
Lubricate rollers of remaining Timken® bearing with
assembly lube. Apply assembly lube to bearing inner race
and sprocket shaft bearing surface. Install bearing on shaft
with appropriate tool. See Picture 5.
NOTE - Pinion and sprocket shaft bearings should be correct sizes,
but it is engine builder’s responsibility to confirm flywheel
endplay, connecting rod sideplay, bearing fit, and all clearances
in Unassembled engines at time of assembly. It is of particular
importance to check flywheel endplay and install different
Timken bearing spacer if necessary. The flywheel end-play
specification is .001”-.005”.
Lubricate pinion bearing and pinion shaft bearing boss with
assembly lube. Install bearing and secure with pinion shaft
main bearing snap ring. See Picture 6.
NOTE - Snap ring supplied by S&S® or identical replacement must
be used with pinion bearing supplied in Super Sidewinder® Plus
engine. Ends of snap ring are rounded on one side, sharp on the
other. Install snap ring with sharp edge out, away from flywheels.
Noting solvent precautions on page 1, wipe down mating
surfaces of crankcase halves with lacquer thinner. Remove
residue with clean, dry cloth, then apply sealant of choice to
both crankcase halves. Take care to avoid breather cavity
and other areas where sealant might reach inside of engine.
See Picture 7. Coat right main bearing race with assembly
lube. If applicable, allow sealant to cure according to
manufacturer’s instructions, then join left and right
crankcase halves.
NOTE - S&S uses Threebond® 1104 to seal crankcase. Use any
sealant carefully to prevent excess from entering engine and
obstructing oil passages or contaminating oil supply.
Install crankcase studs and washers according to crankcase
NOTE - Alignment studs for S&S crankcases are in locations B,
E, & G. See Diagram 1. They must be installed before other
studs and bolts. Fit is tight, so alignment studs must be
lubricated with assembly lube, then tapped through case
assembly with plastic mallet.
Tighten 5⁄16” case bolts and studs to 18 ft-lbs,1⁄4” center bolt
to 120 in-lbs. See Diagram 1 for identification, and tighten
fasteners in following sequence: G-B-E-F-H-D-C-A.
Install drive sprocket spacer and sprocket shaft oil seal in
main bearing race of left case.
Picture 5
Diagram 1
Picture 6
NOTE - Because of sealed, wet primary in Harley-Davidson®
Evolution® models drive trains, S&S® installs sprocket shaft seals
with spring facing out. See Picture 8.
Allow crankcase sealant to cure per mfr.’s instructions, then
pour four ounces of motor oil over bearing end of
connecting rod assembly and into flywheel cavity. Rotate
flywheels several times to distribute oil over connecting rod
bearings. Assembly should turn freely and without binding.
Picture 7
Routing oil supply line to lowest fitting on models with oil
tank below transmission could allow air to enter oil pump
under certain circumstances, causing “air lock”, loss of
lubrication and engine damage.
Apply assembly lube to oil pump driveshaft and driveshaft
bushing in crankcase. See Picture 10. Install oil pump in
normal fashion, placing pump drive gear #33-4230 over
driveshaft as shaft is passed through crankcase bushing.
Disassemble, clean and inspect oil pump, leaving supply drive
gear, key, and snap ring in place on shaft.
Reassemble pump, applying assembly lube to gears and
gear cavities in pump body. Remove excess to avoid
contaminating gaskets. Rotate gears as preliminary
check for bind, and to confirm that drive gear keys are
properly installed.
NOTE - If bind occurs, determine whether problem is with supply
or return gears by removing idler gear from either side and
rotating pump. When binding gear is removed, pump will rotate
freely. Problem can usually be corrected by rotating gear 180°.
NOTE - S&S HVHP oil pumps offer more than one location for oil
supply fitting. Lowest fitting should not be used on models with
oil tank below transmission. S&S recommends stock placement
for oil supply fitting in Dyna™ and late FL models. See Picture 9.
Picture 9
Picture 8
Picture 10
Picture 11
NOTE - A dab of Hylomar® or other thin gasket sealer in corners
may be used to hold gaskets in place. Otherwise gaskets should
be installed dry.
Loss of oil pump drive gear snap ring or key will result in
disengagement of oil pump causing loss of oil pressure and
extensive engine damage.
Loosely install two (2) each 1⁄4 -20 x 1-1⁄2” top oil pump bolts,
followed by pump cover and 4 each 1⁄4 -20 x 2-1⁄2” mounting
bolts. Do not tighten at this time.
While turning oil pump drive gear to check pump for
binding, gradually tighten 4 - 2-1⁄2” bolts in an X-pattern to
final specifications of 120 in-lbs. See Picture 13. Carefully
tighten short bolts “by feel” with thin box end wrench, or
preferably with a torque adapter, and tighten to 110 in-lbs.
Prime pump by removing oil pump check valve ball assembly
and injecting clean motor oil into pump supply fitting while
turning oil pump drive gear. (A large plastic squeeze bottle
works well for priming pump.) Replace check ball, spring,
and cap after oil fills check valve cavity.
Picture 13
Install driveshaft gear key and snap ring.
NOTE - Be sure drive shaft key and snap ring are installed
properly, paying particular attention to snap ring. If not installed
correctly, “sprung,” or otherwise damaged, snap ring may come
off or allow gear key to come out. See Pictures 11 & 12.
Picture 12
With chamfer on oil pump drive gear facing in towards
shoulder on pinion shaft (See Picture 14), install oil pump
drive gear and key on pinion shaft, followed by drive
gear spacer.
Installing gear backwards can result in a stress riser and cause
shaft to break.
Apply red Loctite® #272 to pinion gear nut threads. Install
pinion gear, key and nut on pinion shaft and tighten nut to
50 ft-lbs. See Picture 15.
NOTE - Drive gear spacer will not completely fill space between
oil pump drive gear and pinion gear. A gap of up to .125” will
exist and is normal. Engine rotation keeps oil pump gear in place
during normal operation. Spacer prevents gear and key from
becoming disengaged if engine is rotated backwards.
Installing pinion gear or nut without Loctite can cause
damage to shaft, nut, or other parts.
Picture 14
Picture 15
Thoroughly clean and dry all parts including camshaft
lockwasher and thrust washer. Carefully inspect breather
gear for burrs and remove as necessary. Inspect edges of
crankshaft breather “window” for burrs and smoothness.
Cam thrust washer and breather gear shims should be
correct size, but endplay of camshaft and breather gear must
be verified by customer.
Breather gear end-play should be between .005” .015”. Install breather gear with supplied spacer into
the breather bore of the gearcase. With a new,
uncrushed gasket installed on the gearcase, use a
straight-edge and measure the distance to the spacer.
Subtract .006”-.007” for gasket crush, and this will be
the breather gear end-play. Select correct thrust washer
to achieve proper end-play.
Camshaft end-play should be .005” - .015”. Install
camshaft, with lockwasher and thrust washer, into cam
bearing. Install gearcase cover with new gasket and
tighten all fasteners to 120 in-lbs. Measure camshaft
end-play with a feeler gauge or dial indicator at four
different positions of crankshaft rotation. Select correct
thrust washer to achieve proper end-play.
Apply light coat of assembly lube to cam bearing, camshaft
lockwasher, thrust washer, breather gear, and to breather
gear cavity inside engine, and coat of motor oil to cam lobes.
Place camshaft lockwasher in case with ears down and flat
edge towards rear of engine. See Picture 16.
Picture 17
Picture 16
Install thrust washer over end of cam and place assembly in
engine. During installation, rotate engine so marks on cam
gear and pinion gear align. Second mark on cam gear must
be at eight o’clock position.
Install breather gear and shim, aligning breather gear timing
mark with mark at eight o’clock on cam gear. See Picture 17.
Use connecting rods to rotate flywheels and insure gears
rotate freely. Apply assembly lube to ends of shafts and
meshing surfaces of gears and remove excess.
Apply assembly lube to gear cover bushings.
Install gasket and cover and tighten screws to 120 in-lbs.
NOTE - Gear cover should slide smoothly over alignment dowels
and must not be forced. Confirm that gasket material does not
overlap oil passages in crankcase and gear cover. See Picture 18.
Having to force gear cover indicates an alignment problem.
Problem must be identified and corrected before operating
engine. Operating engine with forced gear cover could result
in broken pinion shaft or other engine damage.
10. Rotate flywheels to check for binding. If present, cause of
bind must be determined and corrected. If assembly rotates
freely, pour approximately four ounces of oil into gear
compartment after allowing crankcase sealant to cure per
manufacturer’s instructions.
Picture 18
Picture 19
NOTE - S&S® installs HL2T (Hydraulic Lifter Limited Travel) kit in
lifters in assembled and unassembled 41⁄8" bore engines.
Install lifters and guides as follows:
1. If installed, remove oil pressure sending unit behind rear
lifter guide opening.
2. Identify gaskets for front and rear lifter guides. Gaskets are
not interchangeable.
3. Coat lifter guide bores with assembly lube and insert lifters.
Work lifters back and forth in guides, assuring that they
move freely and without binding. Apply engine oil to lifter
rollers and remove any excess.
4. Thoroughly clean and dry gasket surfaces of lifter guides and
crankcase. Place rear gasket on crankcase, assuring that oil
hole in gasket aligns with passage in case.
5. Taking care not to dislodge or contaminate gasket, lower
rear guide assembly into place. Fingers can be inserted
through front lifter guide opening to support lifters.
6. Insert Harley-Davidson® alignment tool H-D® #33443, or
similar tool from other source, in lifter guide screw hole by
oil passage. See Picture 19. Install and tighten guide screws
in three remaining holes to 6 ft-lbs. Remove tool, install
fourth screw, and tighten all four screws to 120 in-lbs.
7. Repeat procedure for front lifter-guide assembly. Assembly
lube will usually hold lifters in guide during installation. If
resistance encountered during installation, check to see if
lifter has become dislodged.
8. Apply thread sealant to threads of oil pressure switch
and install.
All reference to Harley-Davidson® part numbers is for
identification purposes only. We in no way are implying that any
of S&S® Cycle’s products are original equipment parts or that they
are equivalent to the corresponding Harley-Davidson® part
number shown.
Picture 20
NOTE - Unused vent hole must be plugged with #51-8330, 1⁄4”-18
NPT pipe plug.
Install length of hose on above elbow. Check the orientation
of the one-way check valve. Install the check valve onto
length of hose so that it will allow passage of air out of
engine, but not back in.
NOTE - Proper direction can be checked by blowing through
valve before installation.
Identify front and rear pistons. The rear piston will have a
notch in the skirt for clearance with the front piston. The
rear piston is to be installed with this notch to the center of
the engine, or towards the front of the motorcycle.
Inspect pistons, especially areas around machined surfaces
such as ring grooves and wristpin holes, for burrs. De-burr as
necessary, taking care to remove particles that could become
dislodged inside engine.
Measure ring end gaps and adjust as necessary.
a. Compression ring end-gaps should be between
.017” to .025”.
b. Oil ring rail end-gaps should be between .015”
to .035”.
Thoroughly clean cylinders, pistons, rings, wristpins, and
wristpin retainers in solvent, then hot, soapy water. Take
special care to flush oil passages, and pass clean, white cloth
back and forth through wristpin bores. Dry all with
compressed air and place on clean, dry surface.
S&S recommends installing all cylinder base gaskets dry.
Be sure holes in gaskets align with cylinder base dowels
and oil holes.
Install rings on pistons.
a. The moly-faced ring is to be installed in the top piston
ring groove, chamfer-side up.
The plain cast ring is to be installed in the second piston
ring groove, dot up.
c. Lubricate wristpin, wristpin bushing, and wristpin
bore in piston with assembly lube. Install wristpin
Install 45° elbow, #31-2022, in vent opening at rear of
through piston and connecting rod, secure with new
crankcase. Steel fittings must be coated with anti-seize
retaining clips.
thread sealant or PTFE plumber's tape before installation
recommends the use of clip installer, part number
in crankcase. See Picture 20.
H-D® #42317, available from Kent-Moore, through HarleyDavidson®, or similar tool, for clip installation.
Picture 21
Install the oil ring support rail in the lower ring groove
of piston. See picture 21.
Install the oil ring separator in the lower ring groove,
then install one oil ring rail on either side of the
S&S® recommends covering cylinder studs with 3⁄8” i.d. fuel line
to protect piston and rings until cylinder installed.
Install cylinder head alignment dowels in cylinder.
Apply very light film of motor oil to piston skirts and cylinder
bores and install rear cylinder. Install rear cylinder head,
referring to following section as necessary.
NOTE - On 41⁄8" bore engines, if engine builder chooses to install
front cylinder before installing rear head, rear cylinder should be
temporarily secured with head bolt and washers. If cylinder is not
secured, piston can lift cylinder and disturb base gasket if
flywheels rotated.
Repeat piston installation for front cylinder and
cylinder head.
NOTE - If different camshaft, or S&S® heads assembled by other
source are used, engine builder must confirm lift capability of
valve springs and collars as well as valve-to-valve clearance. Refer
to Installation Information for S&S big twin Camshafts.
Picture 22
NOTE - Light coating of oil on head bolt threads minimizes
friction so torque values will not be distorted. It cannot be
emphasized enough that these steps must be done carefully.
Maintaining a good head gasket seal depends on it.
Improper torquing sequence and head bolt torque values may
cause head gasket failure.
IMPORTANT NOTE - Proper first time engine start-up and breakin is critical to achieve permanent and lasting head gasket seal.
Follow “Engine Break-In” procedures at end of section.
Improper first time engine start-up and break-in procedure
may cause head gasket failure.
Failure to establish correct clearances can cause extensive
engine damage not covered under warranty.
Bolt heads on cylinders. Follow the stock bolt tightening
sequence, and use stock three stage procedure and torque
values shown in Figure 1. See Figure 1.
Disassemble pushrods and pushrod tube covers. Clean
thoroughly and dry with compressed air.
Blow compressed air through oil passage in each pushrod to
confirm that passage is clean and free of debris and
obstruction. See Picture 22.
Assemble pushrod tube cover assemblies. Lubricate all Orings with a light coat of engine oil.
Top View
Place head gasket on top of cylinder. Locate on dowels
installed in cylinder.
NOTE - If Kevlar® reinforced graphite head gaskets are supplied
with engine, they are to be installed dry. If copper head gaskets
are supplied with kit, prepare gaskets with Gasgacinch® sealant
before installation. Refer to manufacturer’s instructions for
proper application of sealant, and recommended set-up times.
Rear Head
Front Head
Stage 1
Before installing heads spin each head bolt down on its
respective stud to be sure threads are clean and free of
contamination. Place a drop or two of oil on threads and
under head of each head bolt just prior to final assembly.
8 Ft.-Lbs.
Stage 2
18 Ft.-Lbs.
Stage 3
Turn additional 90˚
Figure 1
Picture 23
Insert pushrod tube O-ring washers in lifter blocks. See
Picture 23.
Install O-rings in lifter blocks
Install thick pushrod tube O-rings in cylinder heads.
Determine pushrod placement by comparing lengths of each
pushrod (not including adjuster). Longest pushrod is for
front exhaust, next longest for rear exhaust, shortest for rear
intake, remaining pushrod for front intake. See Picture 24.
Screw pushrod/lifter adjusters in to shortest length. Set
pushrods aside.
Operating engine without sufficient clearance between valve
spring and rocker cover will cause engine damage not
covered under warranty.
NOTE - S&S® pushrods are designed with emphasis on strength.
Weaker pushrods may flex under load, resulting in loss of power
increased cranking compression, and detonation.
All parts must be clean and dry. To install, place lower rocker
cover gaskets on cylinder head. A small amount of Hylomar®
or other thin gasket sealant may be used in corners to hold
gasket in place on head. No other sealant should be used.
Place lower rocker cover on gasket and cylinder head. Install
two of the 5⁄16-18 x 1” screws in front and rear left
(driveside) holes of rocker housing. Tighten screws two turns
to hold rocker housing and gasket in place.
Install four remaining rocker housing screws. Gradually
tighten six screws to 18 ft-lbs. Using sequence illustrated in
Figure 2.
Measure clearance between rocker housing and valve
spring. See Picture 25. Minimum is .025”. If necessary,
loosen screws and reposition housing to increase clearance,
then retighten screws.
Place O-ring in center of rocker housing.
Repeat above procedure for other cylinder head.
Rotate flywheels in direction of normal engine rotation until
both lifters for front cylinder at lowest position on camshaft.
Front piston will be at or near TDC on compression stroke
when lifters are in correct position.
Identify pushrods as explained in previous section. Hold
pushrod tube for front intake in place and pass correct
pushrod, adjuster end down, through cylinder head and
pushrod tube. Repeat for front exhaust.
NOTE - Some engine builders prefer to install and adjust pushrods
one at a time, beginning with intake.
Lubricate rocker shafts with assembly lube. Place rocker arms
in support, and slide shafts through support and rocker arm.
Reliefs in shafts must face the center of the cylinder and
align with the right (cam-side) bolt holes. See Picture 26.
Picture 25
Picture 24
Figure 2
Tighten lock nut.
Follow the same procedure for all four push rods.
NOTE - Upon initial start up after modification, HL2T equipped
lifters may be somewhat noisy for 10-20 miles.
Picture 26
Check rocker arm endplay by sliding rocker arm to one side
as far as possible and measuring gap between rocker arm
and support at opposite end. The specification for endplay is
.001”-.012”. If endplay is insufficient, carefully remove
material from end of rocker arm to achieve correct endplay.
Leave a smooth, non-abrasive surface finish.
Apply Loctite 243 to rocker arm support bolts. Insert two
⁄16 -18 x 21⁄4” socket head bolts and washers in left (drive)
side of support and two 5⁄16 -18 x 21⁄2” hex head bolts in right
(cam) side of support.
Place rocker arm support assembly in rocker housing. Align
pushrod ends with sockets in rocker arms and tighten the
four support bolts to 18 ft-lbs.
Apply Loctite® 243 to the 1⁄4 -20 x 1” and 1⁄4 -20 x 2” socket
head screws. Install washers on both screws. Insert 1” screw
with washer in center left side of support, and 2” screw
with washer in center right side of support. Tighten both to
120 in-lbs.
The HL2T kit is installed in the lifters, and the pushrods must
be adjusted as follows:
a. Extend pushrod until it contacts the hydraulic piston
assembly in the lifter body, then extend pushrod an
additional four complete turns, until piston assembly is
in contact with HL2T spacer and the valve is lifted off of
it’s seat. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods are
readjusted after engine has been run, or if all oil was not
removed during installation, allow at least 10 minutes
for piston assembly to bleed down.
Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be
rotated with the fingers with slight drag. Continue
loosening (shortening) pushrod one full turn (6 flats).
NOTE - Shortening adjuster an additional six flats or full turn
from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This
provides additional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly,
which can improve the ability of the hydraulic unit to maintain
zero lash under normal operating conditions.
Perform this operation on one cylinder at a time. Do not turn
engine until pushrod adjustment is complete.
Turning engine while valve is held off the seat could result in
valve to valve or valve to piston contact and serious valve
train damage.
Install upper rocker cover, gasket, and O-ring on rocker
Install one flat and one rubber washer on each of six 1⁄4 -20 x
⁄4” rocker cover screws. Tighten screws to 120 in-lbs.
Extend pushrod tubes and install pushrod cover
retainer clips.
Rotate flywheels until rear piston reaches TDC on
compression stroke (315 flywheel degrees past front piston
TDC) and both rear lifters are in lowest position on cam.
Repeat procedure for installing pushrods, rockers, and
covers, installing longer remaining pushrod in exhaust.
After pushrod adjustment completed per instructions, rotate
flywheels several revolutions in direction of normal flywheel
travel to confirm that engine turns freely.
NOTE - Do not force engine. If resistance encountered, determine
and correct cause before continuing.
Forcing engine against resistance may cause damage not
covered under warranty.
1. Identify front and rear intake manifold flanges.
2. Apply a light coat of silicon lubricant, or Vaseline, to the
outside diameter of the manifold, the inside diameter of the
flanges, and the two intake seals. Install the flanges in
appropriate positions on manifold, smaller diameter
towards center of manifold.
3. Install seals onto manifold with the thicker end towards
cylinder head.
4. Install manifold assembly onto cylinder heads using the four
mounting screws. Snug screws finger-tight.
5. Install breather hose from front cylinder head to vent fitting
on top of carburetor intake manifold.
NOTE - Refer to engine installation section of this manual for
carburetor installation, throttle cable installation and
adjustment, and air cleaner assembly installation.
Finished engine should be installed in frame according to
appropriate Harley-Davidson® Service Manual. Clean gas and oil
tanks thoroughly before installing, and be sure all traces of
solvent are removed. Old oil lines should be flushed or replaced,
and a new oil filter installed. With engine installation complete,
carburetor and air cleaner assembly can be installed.
NOTE - The 41⁄8" bore engine is designed to be installed in a stock
1984-’99 big twin chassis. If this engine is to replace an existing
engine, refer to the appropriate service manual regarding
engine removal.
S&S® recommends that the primary drive and housing be
removed when installing this engine in order to ensure all
components are in proper alignment.
NOTE - Install the charging system to the crankcase as per the
appropriate service manual according to the specifications for the
particular model. Use new stator fasteners if applicable. If
necessary, install spacer for 45 amp alternator. This step is not
required for all models. After installation of flywheel assembly,
S&S® drive sprocket spacer #31-4011 and Timken® main bearing
seal, place S&S spacer #31-4033 (not provided) on sprocket shaft
between spacer #31-4011and alternator rotor. See Picture 27.
Dimensions of spacer #31-4033 are 1.130” (I.D.) x 1.730” (O.D.) x
.325” (thickness).
Failure to use spacer #31-4033 with 45 amp alternator will
cause rotor to bottom against crankcase when sprocket nut is
tightened, causing damage to crankcase, rotor, or both.
Picture 27
Loose fasteners inside of primary chaincase may cause the
transmission to “lock up”, resulting in possible loss of control
of motorcycle with injury or death to riders and others.
To insure safe operation of motorcycle, these operations must
be performed correctly and in a professional manner.
Refer to the drive section of the appropriate service manual
and loosen the transmission to frame mounting hardware.
Place the engine on the mounting pads of the frame. Install
and tighten the two rear mounting bolts. Check the
relationship of the front engine mount to frame.
NOTE - With the rear crankcase fasteners tightened, there
should not be any space between the engine mounting pad and
the front crankcase mount. Due to variations with different
frames a gap may exist here. If this situation is found, use the
appropriate thickness of shims to eliminate this gap. Failure to
correct this may cause the crankcases to be in a “bind” when the
front engine mounting fasteners are tightened, resulting in an
engine vibration.
Loosen all four lower mounting fasteners.
Refer to the drive section of the appropriate service manual.
Install the inner primary chaincase to the transmission and
engine crankcase. Make certain to use a new engine-toprimary O-ring and lock tabs or safety wire on the inner
chaincase fasteners.
Failure to use new lock tabs or safety wire on inner primary
chaincase mounting hardware may result in the fasteners
backing out and possible damage to the primary drive.
Install the two front engine mounting bolts.
NOTE - The front two engine mounting fasteners should install
easily through the frame and crankcase. If it requires that these
bolts be “driven” through the mounting holes, the crankcases
may again be in a “bind”, resulting in an engine vibration.
Refer to the drive section of the appropriate service manual.
Tighten the transmission to the frame.
Tighten the four lower crankcase fasteners to 35 ft-lbs.
Install the upper engine mounting bracket. Pay particular
attention to alignment with frame. Shim as needed. Tighten
bracket to head to 35 ft-lbs. Refer to specific frame
make/model year service manual for torque specification of
upper bracket-to-frame fastener.
Refer to the drive section of the appropriate service manual
for reassembly of the primary drive and case. Make certain
to install new chaincase lubricant if applicable.
Lift and support the transmission case to bring the rear
engine mount pad relatively level with the bottom
frame tubes.
Place engine in position on rear engine mounting pad.
Install and hand tighten rear engine mounting fasteners.
Install front mount with stabilizer, if applicable, and
hand tighten.
Refer to the drive section of the appropriate service manual.
Install the inner primary chaincase to the transmission and
engine crankcase. Make certain to use a new engine- toprimary O-ring and lock tabs or safety wire on the inner
chaincase fasteners.
Failure to use new lock tabs or safety wire on inner primary
chaincase mounting hardware may result in the fasteners
backing out and possible damage to the primary drive.
Loose fasteners inside of primary chaincase may cause the
transmission to “lock up”, resulting in possible loss of control
of motorcycle with injury or death to riders and others.
Tighten primary housing to engine crankcase and
transmission case.
Torque inner primary housing engine mounting
fasteners to 22 ft-lbs.
Picture 28
Refer to the appropriate service manual for the torque
specifications of the inner primary housing transmission
mounting fasteners.
Tighten the four lower engine mounting fasteners to
35 ft-lbs.
Install the upper engine mounting bracket. Tighten bracket
to head to 35 ft-lbs. Refer to specific frame make/model year
service manual for torque specification of upper engine
mounting-to-frame fasteners.
Refer to the drive section of the appropriate service manual
for reassembly of the primary drive and case. Make certain
to install new chaincase lubricant if applicable.
Picture 29
NOTE - If installing the stock ignition from the removed engine,
refer to the ignition section of the appropriate service manual for
removal and installation.
Install the ignition timing sensor as per manufacturer’s
instruction, using provided ignition cover standoff screws.
Route ignition sensor wire through channel in lower part
of engine gearcase cover and secure with provided
retainer. If applicable, static time ignition as per
manufacturer’s instructions.
If applicable, install and connect the V.O.E.S. (Vacuum
Operated Electric Switch).
NOTE - V.O.E.S. - S&S® Cycle does suggest the ignition system
selected for use with this 41⁄8" bore engine utilize the V.O.E.S.
(Vacuum Operated Electric Switch). Check the switch using a
hand vacuum pump with a gauge and set the switch to trip at 6
in. of vacuum-Mercury. See Picture 28.
Install the ignition manufacturer’s recommended spark
Refer to ignition manufacturer’s suggested spark plug
gap and check spark plugs. Electronic ignitions generally
require a plug gap of between .038”-.043”.
Apply an anti-seize lubricant to spark plug threads,
install and torque to 11-18 ft-lbs.
Refer to included S&S Instruction Sheet #51-1065 or #51-1115
for wiring/cable routing of compression release mechanism,
if applicable.
Install new woven-metal gasket into exhaust ports of
cylinder heads.
Inspect the exhaust pipe header flanges and retaining rings.
Replace if distorted, warped, or otherwise damaged.
Apply a high-temp. anti-seize lubricant to threads of exhaust
studs at cylinder heads.
Install exhausts to cylinder heads. Hand tighten exhaust
stud nuts.
Attach exhausts to lower mounting bracket. Shim if
necessary. Hand tighten mounting hardware.
Tighten exhaust flange nuts at head to 60-80 in-lbs.
Refer to specifications for the appropriate model and
tighten the remaining mounting hardware to the
recommended torque values.
In some instances, brake master cylinder must be spaced out
from frame to clear crankcase. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES
transferred to brake fluid may expand and cause brakes to
seize, resulting in possible fire hazard and loss of control of
motorcycle with injury or death to rider and others.
NOTE-Make certain that the exhaust system is not pre-loaded, or
in a bind, at the lower mounting points. Make all spacing
adjustments prior to final-tightening of the upper exhaust
mounting hardware at the cylinder heads. Failure to follow this
procedure may cause excessive vibration and result in failure of
exhaust pipes or mounting hardware.
Install and connect the ignition coil.
Picture 31
Picture 30
Install Carb
a. Check idle mixture and idle speed screw settings.
1. Check setting of idle mixture screw, part #11-2354,
on top of carb body. See Picture 29. Turn screw
clockwise to close screw, counting number of turns
to fully closed position - setting should be 11⁄2 turns.
Reset by turning screw counterclockwise to 11⁄2 turns
open. After engine is started, screw must be reset as
explained in “Adjusting Idle Mixture” section of
NOTE - Turn idle mixture screw in only far enough to contact seat.
Do not over tighten.
Install carb on manifold
1. Bolt carb and insulator block to intake manifold
using two 3⁄8 -16 socket cap screws provided in kit.
(O-ring side of block faces manifold.) Tighten to 18
NOTE - If insulator block is not installed, manifold bolts supplied
in kit will be too long and may bottom in holes. Shorter manifold
bolts must be used if insulator block is not installed.
If insulator block is not installed, lower manifold bolt may
damage carburetor bowl causing possible gasoline leak.
Over tightening idle mixture screw may cause irreversible
damage to carburetor body.
Check setting of idle speed adjusting screw, part
#50-0038. See Picture 30. Turn screw
counterclockwise until it no longer contacts
throttle linkage spool, part #11-2385. Next, turn
screw clockwise until it just contacts spool. Then
turn additional 1⁄2 turn clockwise to slightly open
throttle plate.
Install throttle cables on carburetor.
1. Locate the correct throttle cable housing bracket in
carburetor kit.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain
conditions. Do not smoke around gasoline. Gasoline fumes
are toxic when inhaled. Any gasoline leak or spill constitutes
a health and fire hazard.
NOTE - The carburetor kit is supplied with two different throttle
cable brackets. The shorter bracket, part #11-2339, is designed
for 1989 & earlier-style throttle cables. The longer bracket, part
#11-2338, is for the throttle cables supplied with 1990 & later
motorcycles originally equipped with a “CV” carburetor.
Adjust throttle cables
NOTE - Throttle grip assembly must be assembled correctly
and work freely to prevent possible sticking during
operation. Throttle must snap closed when released. Cable
routing must be free of tight bends to minimize friction
between cable and housing.
Apply drop of Loctite® 243 or equivalent to threads
of cable bracket screw and install bracket on
Install opening side throttle cable barrel fitting and
throttle cable in throttle linkage and appropriate
side of throttle cable housing bracket. Opening side
cable housing outside diameter is smaller and
measures .190”.
Repeat step 2 for closing side throttle cable. Closing
side cable has a spring around inner cable wire. See
Picture 31.
Turn threaded throttle (pull-open) cable adjuster to
remove excessive freeplay. Adjust this cable to fully
open the throttle plate when the throttle grip is
twisted completely open.
Remove the slack in the idle (pull-close) cable with
the cable adjuster and leave approximately 1⁄16” of
freeplay at the throttle grip.
Test throttle to insure that it opens and closes freely.
Turn handlebars to extreme left and open and close
throttle, then turn bars to extreme right and open
and close throttle. If throttle binds, loosen idle cable
adjuster to put more freeplay in cable. Tighten
adjusting screw locknuts after making final
NOTE - Throttle must not bind and must snap shut to fully closed
position when released.
Picture 32
Picture 33
If throttle does not return to fully closed position when
released, it may inadvertently stick open, causing possible
loss of control of motorcycle and personal injury to operator
or others.
Slip fuel overflow hose onto fitting on carb bowl and
neatly route behind rear cylinder pushrod tubes. Exit
end of overflow hose must extend down below engine
and away from exhaust pipes. See Picture 32.
Install and adjust cruise control cable, if applicable. Refer
to the appropriate service manual for proper procedure.
Prepare air cleaner backplate.
NOTE - Fast idle lever screws, part #11-2384, must not be over
tightened. Loctite® or other thread locking compound may be
used sparingly on threads to prevent screws from vibrating loose.
Over tightening fast idle lever screws may damage backplate.
Overflow hose must not contact hot surface such as exhaust
pipe where it could melt and catch fire.
Slip hose clamp over end of fuel line with 90º bend.
Apply thin coat of oil to carb fuel inlet fitting and slip
end of fuel line with 90º bend on fitting. Position fuel
line in such a way as to avoid contact with cylinders and
other hot engine parts. Tighten hose clamp. Slip
protective fuel line covering over fuel line and position
where contact with engine parts could occur. On models
equipped with fuel line support guide, use guide if
possible. Connect other end of fuel line to gas tank
petcock using hose clamp provided.
Verify installation and connection of vent hose from
front cylinder head to vent fitting on top of carburetor
intake manifold.
Connect vacuum hose from V.O.E.S. and/or fuel petcock
to vent fitting on top of carburetor intake manifold, if
Picture 34
Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole on left in air
cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 33.
Screw vent hose elbow fitting, part #50-8110, into
remaining hole at right. See Picture 33.
Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure 3.
Install Air Cleaner Backplate
Locate crankcase venting valve at rear of
crankcases. Connect crankcase venting hose from
this valve to installed elbow fitting on the air
cleaner backing plate. See Picture 34.
Determine which of the provided shims correctly
fills the gaps between backplate, thick aluminum
spacer, and cylinder heads.
Install backplate and gasket. Confirm that fast idle
lever has properly engaged enrichment plunger.
Tighten screws holding backplate to carburetor to
11 ft-lbs.
Figure 3
Picture 35
Picture 36
NOTE - Air cleaner backplate screws supplied with kit have thread
locking compound on threads. If screw without thread locking
compound is used, a thread locking product such as Loctite® 243
must be applied, and screws properly tightened.
Failure to apply thread locking compound or properly tighten
screws may cause screws to loosen and fall into engine,
resulting in engine damage not covered
under warranty.
4. Fill gap between backplate mounting ears and
cylinder heads with aluminum spacer and correct
shims. See Picture 5.
5. Bolt backplate to cylinder head with 5⁄16”-18 bolts,
flat washers, and lockwashers.
NOTE - The manifold flange bolts may need to be loosened to
align backplate mounting ears with breather fittings in cylinder
heads. A long, 1⁄4” ball-end Allen socket will aid in accessibility to
the cam-side fasteners of the flanges. Adjust carburetor/air
cleaner assembly as necessary for proper alignment with
mounting holes in cylinder head. Retighten flange bolts evenly to
16 ft. lbs.
Final assembly and checks.
1. Check carb to manifold mounting bolts.
2. Check carb to air cleaner backplate mounting
3. Check the air cleaner backplate to head
mounting bolts.
4. Check fuel line connections and routing. Avoid
hot surfaces.
5. Check vacuum operated ignition advance
connections if applicable.
6. Check crankcase to backplate vent hose
1- Top Oil Return Hole
2- Top Oil Supply Hole
3- Lower Oil Return Hole
4- Lower Oil Supply Hole
5- Middle Oil Supply Hole
Picture 37
Check vent hose connection from front cylinder
head to intake manifold.
8. Check fuel overflow hose routing. Avoid hot
9. Test throttle to be sure it opens and closes freely.
Turn handlebars to extreme left and open and close
throttle, then turn bars to extreme right and check
throttle. When released, throttle should snap
closed in all positions.
10. Install air cleaner element and air cleaner cover
using three 1⁄4-20 x 1” mounting screws provided.
Flat side of pleated filter element #17-0376 goes
against air cleaner backplate. Insure that element
goes around outside edge of locating tang at 9
o’clock position on backplate. Rounded side of
element with S&S® Part # goes toward outside.
Correctly installed element will remain in place on
backplate without support.
1. Refer to service manual. Remove and wash oil tank
thoroughly. Clean or replace oil lines. Reinstall oil tank.
2. Install and connect oil filter mounting bracket to the front of
engine crankcases, if applicable. Refer to service manual for
oil hose routing and specifications. Install new oil filter.
Improper installation of oil lines or fittings may result in parts
damage not covered under warranty.
Picture 38
Picture 39
NOTE - S&S Cycle recommends the use of Harley-Davidson oil
filters, part numbers 63805-80A (black), or 63796-77A
(chrome),or equivalent. The use of an oil filter designed for a
Twin Cam 88® is NOT recommended.
Check fuel needle and seat assembly. Fill gas tank with
just enough fuel to test system. Lean motorcycle over
towards carburetor side, turn on fuel petcock and wait
20 seconds. If gas runs out end of carb or out overflow
hose, turn off petcock and check needle and seat.
All reference to Harley-Davidson® part numbers is for
identification purposes only. We in no way are implying that any
of S&S® Cycle’s products are original equipment parts or that they
are equivalent to the corresponding Harley-Davidson® part
number shown.
Check fuel inlet fitting and fuel line connections for
leaks. Hose clamps must be tight.
Locate and install oil tank vent hose to fitting above the oil
pump on crankcase. See Picture 36.
Verify location of oil pump feed fitting on the pump cover
and install oil supply hose from oil tank. See Picture 37.
Fill the oil tank to the proper level.
NOTE - S&S Cycle recommends the use of Mobil® 1 V-Twin
20W-50 synthetic oil in our engines. If not using Mobil 1, see
the chart below.
Ambient Temperature (˚F)
SAE 20W50
Above 20˚ - 100˚
SAE 50
Above 60˚ - 100˚
SAE 60
Above 80˚ - 100˚
NOTE - Fuel needle and seat assembly must completely shut off
fuel supply to carburetor bowl. Fuel inlet fittings and fuel line
connections must not leak.
Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood engine causing
contamination of oil supply and damage to engine.
Any gasoline leak represents a health and fire hazard.
Refer to service manual for installation of foot rest
assemblies if removed for engine replacement.
Reassemble transmission shift linkage if necessary.
NOTE - On certain models it may be necessary to switch the shift
linkage to the outside of the shift lever. See Picture 38. Make
certain that there is clearance between the shifter rod and the
engine crankcases.
Reinstall and connect the fuel tank. Refer to appropriate
service manual. Inspect fuel lines and clamps - replace as
Check fuel line connections and routing. Avoid hot
surfaces. Make certain that the protective cover has
been placed over fuel line, and that it is clear from sharp
edges and abrasive surfaces.
Reassemble components that were removed or
disassembled for installation. Consult authorized HarleyDavidson® service manual for installation procedure for
stock parts not covered in S&S instructions.
Remove tappet screen plug and screen assembly from
crankcase. See Picture 39.
Remove wires from spark plugs. Ground plug wires to
cylinder head with either a jumper wire or through a
test plug.
It is possible to damage certain types of electronic ignitions if
the high-tension side of the ignition coil is left open. Always
ground the spark plug-side of ignition coil when turning
engine over.
Engage manual compression release, if applicable.
Turn ignition on and turn the engine over with the starter
motor until you get engine oil at the tappet screen port.
Avoid excessive time of starter engagement. Overheating of
starter motor will result in damage. After 30 seconds of
continuous starter running, allow 5 minutes for the starter
motor to cool.
Picture 40
NOTE - If oil fails to appear at tappet screen port, verify that oil
line routing is correct and that the oil tank is full to the proper
level. Remove the check-ball spring from under the cap of the
shorter tower on the oil pump. Replace cap to avoid losing oil
from pump.
Once oil is seen at the tappet screen port, reassemble all
removed or disconnected components.
Start motorcycle. Verify oil pressure.
NOTE - Oil pressure indicator lamp should light when ignition is
turned on. Lamp will go out after engine is started, and there is
oil pressure at the switch in the crankcase.
Verify that engine oil is returning to oil tank.
Improper first time engine start-up and break-in procedure
may cause head gasket failure.
Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at
1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any
loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to
failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil
pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that
no leaks exist.
9. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other
problems. Let engine cool to the touch.
10. After engine has cooled, start again and allow the motor to
build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three
to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/hot to
the touch (approximately 150º) shut the motor down and let
it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the
initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.
11. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it
should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase
the temp slightly each time (+10º). You can be more liberal
each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from
idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don’t be too concerned
with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and
mixture cannot be correctly set until the engine reaches full
operating temperature. The engine should not reach that
temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine
temperature to become excessive. After the engine has
cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready
to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.
Picture 41
a. Refer to Instruction Sheet #51-1012, Installation and
Jetting Instructions for S&S® Super E and G Series
“Shorty” Carburetors, for initial set-up and
adjustment of the carburetor.
Ignition Timing
NOTE - S&S recommends using electronic ignition with adjustable
advance curve in 41⁄8” bore engines. Adjustable curve permits
slowing rate of advance to control or eliminate pinging under
heavy load or when elevated temperatures or poor quality
gasoline encountered. Install ignition according to
manufacturer’s instructions. Leave spark plugs out while static
timing to ease flywheel rotation. Flywheels in S&S Super
Sidewinder Plus engines have three timing marks:
(F/30) = Front cylinder firing mark, 30° degrees before front
cylinder piston TDC with vertical line in center of hole. See
caution below.
(R/30) = Rear cylinder firing mark, 30° before rear cylinder piston
TDC with dot in center of hole.
(T:F) = Front piston, Top Dead Center with colon (:) in center
of hole.
Most fully electronic ignitions are timed at TDC. Points and other
ignitions with mechanical advance are timed at front cylinder
firing mark. With correct mark centered in timing inspection
hole, ignition at full advance will occur 30° before TDC.
Operating engine with timing too advanced can cause
detonation and damage to engine not covered under warranty.
Additional minor adjustment of timing may be required due
poor quality gasoline, extremely hot climate, etc., but ignition
should occur between 28° and 32° BTDC when fully advanced,
and engine closely monitored for heat build-up. In general,
excessive ignition advance will cause engine to kick back against
the starter during start-up and “buck” when ridden at steady
speed with partial throttle. An advanced condition can also cause
pinging or ignition knock and possible piston damage. These
symptoms may not be noticed if electronic ignition with “soft”
advance curve is used. Excessive ignition retard causes sluggish
performance and severe overheating with possible subsequent
damage to the engine, and must also be avoided. Immediate or
rapid exhaust pipe discoloration is usually a sign of retarded
ignition timing.
Pinging or ignition knock is an early sign of detonation and
possible impending engine damage. Should pinging occur,
the throttle must be backed off and the cause determined and
corrected. Excessive retard is less obvious but equally
destructive. For that reason, final timing should be confirmed
with a timing light or other accepted procedure.
111”- 32º (Timing mark at the right-side, or towards
the rear, of the timing hole.)
117”- 30º (Timing mark in the center of the timing
124”- 28º (Timing mark at the left-side, or towards
the front, of the timing hole.)
Remove timing plug from left-side engine crankcase.
See Picture 40.
Install timing mark view plug into crankcase. See
Picture 41.
Refer to service manual or instructions specific to the
ignition system being used. Find the RPM in which the
ignition “fully advances”.
Attach inductive pick-up from timing light to spark
plug wire.
NOTE- If the timing light being used requires an external power
source, it is advised to use a separate, stand-alone battery.
Charging system pulsing may cause a fluctuation in the timing
light strobe if the motorcycle’s battery is used.
S&S® suggests the following timing specifications:
Start motorcycle. Run the engine to the “full advance”
RPM of the ignition system and look for the timing
mark through the view plug. The front cylinder
advance mark on the flywheel (F/30) should be seen
through the view plug.
NOTE- With the front cylinder advance mark centered in the
timing hole at the full advance rpm of the ignition system, the
timing will be set at 30º.
Proper ignition timing is essential to safe engine operation.
Timing that’s too advanced will result in detonation and
engine damage. Timing that’s too retarded will result in
engine over-heating and engine damage.
NOTE- If S&S determines that engine damage was caused by
improper ignition timing, repair will not be covered under
Reinstall the crankcase timing plug.
V.O.E.S. - S&S Cycle does suggest the ignition system selected
for use with this 41⁄8" bore engine utilize the V.O.E.S. (Vacuum
Operated Electric Switch). Check the switch using a hand
vacuum pump with a gauge and set the switch to trip at 6 in.
of vacuum-Mercury. See Picture 28.
OIL TEMPERATURE - Operating temperature for engine oil
should be between 180º - 240º F. If engine oil temperature
stays above 240º, and correct ignition timing has been
verified, S&S Cycle suggests that an oil cooler be installed.
S&S® Recommended Regular Service Intervals
Engine Oil & Filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Change at 50, 500, 2,500 miles, every 2,500 miles thereafter. 1
Air Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inspect at 50 and 500 miles, every 2,500 miles thereafter. Replace every 5,000 miles.2
Tappet Oil Screen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inspect at 50 and 500 miles, every 2,500 miles thereafter.
Petcock, Lines, & Fittings, Vacuum Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inspect at 50 and 500 miles, every 2,500 miles thereafter.
Fuel Tank Filter Screen & In-Line Fuel Filter (If used) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Every 5,000 miles.
Engine Idle Speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Adjust as required.
Operation of Throttle & Enrichment Device Controls . . . . . . . . . .Inspect & lubricate throttle cables at 500 miles and every 2,500 miles
Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inspect every 5,000 miles. Replace every 10,000 miles or as needed.
Ignition Timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inspect every 5,000 miles.
Engine Mounts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Inspect every 500 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter.
External Fasteners Except Engine Head Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Re-torque at 500 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter.
S&S recommends that petroleum-based oil not specifically formulated for air-cooled motorcycles should be changed every
1,000 miles.
Replace more frequently if required or if engine is operated in a dusty environment.
Specifications for 41⁄8” Bore Engines
Compression Ratio
4 ⁄8”
4 ⁄8”
4 ⁄8”
4 ⁄8”
4 ⁄8”
4 ⁄8”
Service Wear Limit
Valve Guide in Head (tight)
.0015” - .003”
Timkin Race in Case (tight)
.001” - .003”
less than .0025”
Valve Seat in Head (tight)
.005” - .0075”
Pinion Race in Case (tight)
.001” - .003”
less than .0025”
Cylinder Heads
Valves (Fit in Guide)
Service Wear Limit
Service Wear Limit
.0012” - .0015”
Runout (Shaft at Flywheel)
.0005” - .001”
.0018” - .0023”
End Play
.001” - .005”
exceeds .005”
Seat Width
.040” - .062”
Pinion Bearing Fitment
.0004 - .001”
Stem Protrusion
2.045” - 2.060”
Rocker Arms
Connecting Rods
Service Wear Limit
.001” - .0012”
Piston Pin Fitment in Red
.0005” - .001”
Connecting Rod Side-play
.015 - .035”
Service Wear Limit
Crankpin Bearing
Shaft Fit in Bushing (Loose)
Bushing Fit in Rocker
Arm (Tight)
.0007” - .0018”
.002” - .004”
Running Clearance
Hydraulic Lifters
Service Wear Limit
Connecting Rods
S&S® Suggestions
Lifter Fit in Guide (Loose)
.0006” - .0017”
Pinion Gear Nut
50 Ft.-Lbs
Loctite® 272
Rocker Box Hardware 1⁄4”
120 in.-Lbs
Loctite® 243
Service Wear Limit
Rocker Box Hardware 5⁄16”
18 Ft.-Lbs
Loctite® 243
Fit in cylinder
.002” - .0025”
Tappet Guide Fasteners
120 in.-Lbs
Loctite® 243
Pushrod Locknuts
120 in.-Lbs
.017” - .025”
.015 - .035”
End Gaps: Top Two
Oil Control Rails
Cylinder Head Bolts
Crankcase Fasteners 1⁄4”
120 in.-Lbs
Crankcase Fasteners ⁄16”
15 Ft.-Lbs
Gearcover Fasteners
120 in.-Lbs
Loctite® 243
Intake Manifold-to-Head
16 Ft.-Lbs
Loctite® 243
Intake Manifold-to-Carb
18 Ft.-Lbs
Loctite® 243
Breather Gear End-play
.005” - .015”
Breather Gear Running
.0015” - .0025”
Exhaust Flange-to-Head
60-80 in.-Lbs
Camshaft in Bushing
.0007 - .002”
Tappet Screen Plug
120 in.-Lbs
Camshaft End-play
.005” - .015”
Timing Hole Plug
120 in.-Lbs
Pinion Shaft in Bushing
.001” - .0025”
Spark Plug
11-18 Ft.-Lbs
Cylinder Studs
10 Ft.-Lbs
Loctite® 262
Bushing Fit in
Gearcase (Tight)
Oil Pump Shaft Clearance
Service Wear Limit
See Chart on Page 9
.002” - .004”
.0007” - .0023
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