Canon | Hugyfot 50D | User manual | Canon Hugyfot 50D User manual

Canon Hugyfot 50D User manual
Hugyfot camera housings
Canon 50D
User manual
Picture: Jordi Chias
Hugyfot Housing for Canon 50D
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User manual
Dear Dive buddy,
Regardless which model of Hugyfot you hold in you hand, you can be sure that it
is not only the best housing on the market but also the best looking one. Hugyfot
builds underwater housings for cameras as well as lighting systems since 1953.
The story began at a time when the first regulators were build and all the diving
equipment still had to be designed.
During the last decade, Hugyfot has invested a lot in new technologies. Together
with the emphasising of the ergonomical design, this investment has changed the
market of underwater housings. Recognition and a very high quality standard have
made the Hugyfot brand known throughout the world.
Underwater photography is our life.
Happy Diving!
Hugyfot nv - Industrielaan 30 Zuid III - 9320 Erembodegem - Belgium
All rights are reserved for HUGYFOT. Also on all copies.
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Contents
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Preface ..................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Techical information ................................................................................................................................. 5
Hugyfot for Nikon 50D ........................................................................................................................... 6
Opening and closing the housing .............................................................................................. 7
Port with bayonet catch ........................................................................................................................ 8
Flash connections ........................................................................................................................................ 9
Mounting the camera .......................................................................................................................... 10
Operation of the HugyCheck system .................................................................................. 12
Maintenance and service ................................................................................................................ 21
Photo practice .............................................................................................................................................. 23
Accessories ..................................................................................................................................................... 25
WARRANTY
HUGYFOT NV guarantees for the actual status of techniques an impeccable usage for 2 years. In order to be able to claim this warranty, this user
manual is to be followed unconditionally and the housing is to be used
in a professional way. Faults and imperfections will be fixed by HUGYFOT
during this period of warranty. All resulting damages are NOT INCLUDED
in this claim. Damages due to transportation can not be claimed from
HUGYFOT and remain under full responsability of the owner. The owner
has to forward his claim to the transport company itself in order to avoid
the loss of his right of claim.
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1. Preface
A camera in an underwater housing offers a lot of advantages to the professional and amateur underwater photographer:




impeccable exposure due to the use of the most modern exposure
techniques of the camera;
direct view on the subject, very short reaction time and swift image
processing;
exact and swift focusing due to the autofocus objective;
parallax faults no longer exist because one looks through the objective
(all settings are displayed on the LCD-screen);as the camera can also
be used on land, a second camera is not needed.
As housings and flashes have a long lifetime and are quite expensive, some
time should be invested in looking around to find the right equipment. Doing this in cooperation with a professional salesman is probably the best
solution.
Different criteria determine the final choice of the camera:



recording technique (viewfinder, controls, …);
functionality and comfort (design of the housing, control switches and
their ergonomical position, …);
price.
Also: some elements that determine ones choice when buying a safari
camera are not important at all when purchasing a camera for “underwater”
use. Cameras are always designed for “on land” use. Therefore HUGYFOT
always designs its housings from the divers’ ergonomical point of view and
translates this through the controls.
First dive is a checkdive without the camera in the housing.
Check all buttons under water.
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2. Techical information
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1
1. Front shell - 2. Exposure lever - 3. Neoprene handstrap - 4. Main dial - 5. Display illumination - 6. Ball-and-socket joint for mounting flash arm - 7. External flash connections 8. Zoom/focus control - 9. Ergonomic grip with ball-and-socket joint for mounting flash arm 10. Lens release - 11. Port
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20
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12. Countersunk bolt - 13. Back shell - 14. Menu & Live view - 15. Mode dial - 16. White balance/Auto focus/ISO - 17. AF-ON/Zoom out/Zoom in - 18. Multi selector - 19. Menu selector
- 20. Set - 21. On/Off - 22. Display - 23. Play/Delete/Jump/Info/Profiles.
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3. Hugyfot for Canon 50D
It is a trend in underwater photography to use a digital camera that can be
used by the amateur as well as by the professional.
Nothing is as simple as taking pictures with the automatic settings of the
Canon 50D. One can choose to take control himself and set each parameter
to his preference. The sensitive exposure lever is integrated in the front shell
which is a part of the patented Hugyfot-grip. This enables one-hand photography. With this sensitive lever the exposure lever of the camera can be
slightly squeezed so the camera is activated. All the settings then become
visible on the LCD-screen. One-hand photography, taking pictures during a
drift dive or point-shooting with the flash in the other hand are “child’s play”
thanks to the HUGYFOT design. Just as easy is the manipulation of the
zoom on the left side, the diaphragm and the shutter speed.
All parameters can be changed through the menu driven system, this can
be operated through the buttons on the back of the housing. The big LCDscreen of the camera is entirely visible through the integrated window on
the back of the housing. Any flash can be connected through the standard
Nikonos contact.
The sensitive exposure lever is integrated in the
front shell which is a part of the patented
HUGYFOT-grip. This enables
one-hand photography.
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4. Opening and closing the housing
The HUGYFOT Canon 50D housing is opened and closed by means of 2 built-in
countersunk bolts.
This guarantees the safest way of closing. Only with the right key you can
open and close the housing. A curious buddy cannot open the housing
by accident. Herewith we exclude the
unwanted opening of the housing. To
seal the housing, the socket screw key
is inserted into the countersunk bolt
and then turned until the shells are
squeezed to one another. Stop turning the key when resistance increases
significantly. Further turning the screws hasn’t got any sense and can only
damage the thread. At a depth of 6 meters the hydrostatic pressure takes
over and keeps all the o-rings under pressure. Always check the tension on
the bolts before diving if the housing wasn’t opened in between two dives.
First maintenance command:
The screws, and more specific the tread, must be kept very clean at all times.
The main o-ring merely lies in the o-ring groove. It can be removed by blowing it out with compressed air, by using a credit card or by rubbing two pieces
of paper towards each other against the o-ring so the o-ring pops out of his
groove. Never use a metal object or any other hard material: by doing this you
can DAMAGE the O-ring and the groove.
Second maintenance command:
Whenever the o-ring is dirty or misted up, it must be removed from its
groove (see first command) and cleaned up with soap (do not use corrosive
or chemical degreasers). Afterwards clean it with clear water.
O-rings have to be dried up with a clean cloth (do not squeeze) or by air.
Grease the O-rings by using HUGYFOT grease. Pull the o-ring gently through
your fingers without stretching it! O-ring grooves, housing and shell edges
have to be cleaned with a clean cloth.
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5. Port with bayonet catch
The front port bayonet catch is a secure and fast method to connect the different ports to the HUGYFOT Canon 50D housing.
The port has a mark which has to be positioned opposite to the mark at the left
of the housing when mounting and demounting the port. To actually close the
port it has to be turned clockwise until the mark on the port is opposite to the
mark on top of the housing. To demount the port it has to be turned counter
clockwise until the mark on the port is opposite to the mark on the left of the
housing.
When mounting the port, mind that it is held exactly in the middle of the
port mounting. Only then you can press the port so it slides nicely into the
port mounting. Check whether the port is closed properly before turning it
towards the marking on top of the housing. (secure position).
A
When mounting the port,
A and C must be opposite
to each other. Make sure
that the port is held exactly in the middle of the
port mounting. Then turn
the port clockwise until B
and C are opposite to each
other.
B
C
Third maintenance command:
The o-ring around the port can be removed from its groove by pressing it
with 2 fingers.
Port mounting, o-ring groove and bayonet catch have to be cleaned with a
wet cloth. Afterwards let everything dry.
Clean the inside of the portglas with water and soap. Never scrub it with a
cloth. Rinse it with fresh water and let it dry, or dry it with compressed air.
Grease the O-rings with HUGYFOT grease by gently pulling it through your
fingers without stretching it! Put it back into their grooves.
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6. Flash connections
Hugyfot housings can be equiped with Nikonos 5-pins or S-6 flash connections. These flash connections are plugged into a circuit board inside the
housing. An optional TTL-converter is also available.
The flash connection can be shut off by
using a small protection cap which can be
removed by turning it counter clockwise.
The cap has 2 o-rings which have to be
cleaned together with the thread. Afterwards, slightly grease o-ring and thread.
The flash plug also has to be serviced.
Slightly grease the o-rings and thread and
keep the flash contacts dry.
The multiple socket in the housing has a
small ridge. The projecting part of the connection has a groove with the same meaBe sure that, whenever plugging the
surements as the ridge of the connection. connection into the socket, the groove
Be sure that, whenever plugging the con- and the ridge fit together well.
nection into the socket, the groove and the
ridge fit well together. Only then the connection is well positioned. Press the plug gently into the contact. Then turn
it clockwise to tighten it. Whenever the flash connection has to be removed
from a wet housing it always has to be positioned downwards. If not, the
remaining water can work its way into the flash connection. In that case, the
water has to be removed immediately by using an absorbing paper. Do not
close the flash connection when it is not entirely dry.
Fourth maintenance command:
Keep the inside of the plug dry and clean. The o-rings, the plug and the
thread need to be clean and slightly greased. DO NOT use the housing with
an open multiple socket: this can cause leakage and corrosion!
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7. Mounting the camera
Prepare yourself at ease and try to avoid stress!
Obligations when using underwater housings for cameras:

Mount zoom (or focus) control gear (if applicable). Slide the zoom gear
over the objective. Position the gear so that the gearwheel of the zoom
control gear matches the gearwheel of the zoom control inside the
housing.

Remove the protection cap from the objective (if a port is mounted).

Insert the tripod screw in the base of the camera body. Gently slide the
camera onto the camera support until it reclines. The objective should
be centered in the port mounting. If the zoom control gear does not function properly slightly turn it until the teeth fit. Never use force while
mounting the camera. Be sure the flash connection is free and not
jammed.

Next, fix the tripod screw handfirm. Check whether the camera is
mounted in a stable way without tension.
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Slide the flash adapter onto the flash connection of the camera (red
connector facing back of camera).
Turn on the camera.
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Check whether all control switches can be operated and function over
the complete range. If not, this has to be checked and fixed before
continuing.
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Set the parameters of the camera as much as possible according to the
settings which will be used under water.
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If applicable, connect the external flash and test the camera and flash.
If function fails, check the connections for their position and clean
them.
Closing of the housing:

Check the main o-ring and the opposite sealing surface for dirt. If
necessary, clean with a wet cloth. After appr. 5 dives, remove the main
o-ring with a clean cloth by pressing it out of his groove. Clean the
o-ring, the groove and the sealing surface. Then close the housing.
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
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Turn the countersunk bolds in without using any pressure so that the
two shells are nicely put together. This point is reached when the
tightening suddenly generates resistance.
Check all operational switches in the back shell of the camera. It is
possible that some pressure has to be used to operate the buttons.
Due to the water pressure all buttons are squeezed, so this is the normal situation of operation.
Mount accessories such as flash arm, handle, protection cap, etc…
We strongly recommend doing this first mounting on a table. When one is
forced to work on a floor (ship deck, tent, cabin, …) a clean towel should be
used as a clean surface to avoid all kinds of dirt. Especially the first time,
you should give yourself all the time needed to practise all these steps. Afterwards you will notice that it only takes a couple of minutes to mount your
camera.
Opening the housing:

Before the housing should be opened, see to it that the housing is
properly rinsed with fresh water. Make sure that the housing is dry so
there is no more water left that can work its way inside when it is
opened.

Put the housing down with the port facing down.
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Loosen the bolds.

Remove the back shell gently from the front shell. When resistance
occurs while opening see to it that the cause of this resistance is put
right before continuing. If not, damage to the housing or the camera
may occur.
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8. Operation of HugyCheck system
The HugyCheck system is a pre-dive check system that allows the underwater
photographer to check prior to the dive whether the housing has been closed
properly and whether the o-rings are in good condition. An electrical vacuum
pump will create a slight under pressure inside the housing which can be
monitored by means of an LED pressure indicator on the camera hot shoe.
Components:
circuit board
hot shoe with LED pressure indicator
electrical vacuum pump - one way valve
moisture sensor
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2
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5
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Hugyfot Housing for Canon 50D
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3.
4.
J2 connecter
J1 connecter
SW1 switchboard
J3 connecter
(strobe socket 1)
5. J4 connecter
(strobe socket 2)
6. J8 Power socket
(3 Volt only)
7. Buzzer
8. J5 connecter
(TTL converter)
9. J6 connecter
(TTL converter)
10. Connecter for
leakage alarm.
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Battery
The HugyCheck system runs on a single CR123A 3V battery.
Please make sure to install this battery correctly as a reversed polarity will
damage the circuitry. Do not use batteries with a voltage higher than 3 Volt
as this will damage the electronics.
Strobe switchboard
The HugyCheck system is developed to allow all possible combinations between camera and external strobes. Given the amount of possible combinations and settings, we advise you to read this section carefully.
J1
J2
SW1
J3
J4
Hugyfot Housing for Canon 50D
The camera hot shoe cable can be connected
to either J1 (direct) or J2 (converter) on the circuit board. The J2 connecter is only to be used
when the optional TTL converter is installed.
When no TTL converter is installed inside the
housing and the camera hot shoe is connected
to J2, the strobes won’t fire.
The J1 connecter is used when strobes are used
in manual mode or when strobes are used that
are fully iTTL or eTTL compatible (e.g. Nikon
SB 800, Canon 580 EX, Subtronic dttl, …)
Next to J1 is a switchboard SW1 which contains
6 switches (3 for each strobe) which control the
Q, the SP and the Ready signal on both external strobe connections. By using these switches one can individually control the Q, the SP
and the Ready signal on each strobe connection. The X and the Ground signal (as well as
the 6th Canon line in case of Canon housings)
are permanently wired through and cannot be
switched off.
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SW1 Switchboard
SW1 Switchboard: 1 = Q signal on J4 connecter
2 = Q signal on J3 connecter
3 = SP signal on J4 connecter
4 = SP signal on J3 connecter
5 = RDY signal on J4 connecter
6 = RDY signal on J3 connecter
J1 connecter - Manual mode
When the camera hot shoe is connected to J1 and
when strobes are used in manual mode we strongly
recommend that all the switches on SW1 are turned
off. In this case only X and ground will be used as
the digital data of modern cameras is incompatible with conventional TTL
strobes and as ‘old style’ strobes might use a tension that is too high for
modern cameras and might damage the camera circuitry.
J1 connecter - iTTL or eTTL mode
When the camera hot shoe is connected to J1 and
when fully iTTL or eTTL compatible strobes are used
(e.g. Nikon SB 800, Canon 580 EX, Subtronic dttl,
…) all the switches on SW1 have to be switched on
as the strobes will need all the data on all the lines. Please note that in this
case only one strobe can be connected to the housing as most of these
strobe systems require a master and slave strobe. The master strobe will
be connected to the housing while the slave strobe will be connected to the
master strobe. In case Canon eTTL strobes are used, all 6 lines are required
and a 6-pin strobe connection needs to be installed on the housing.
J1 connecter - iTTL or eTTL mode + Manual mode
When the camera hot shoe is connected to J1 and
when 1 fully iTTL or eTTL compatible strobe is used
in combination with 1 non iTTL or eTTL compatible
strobe, then all the connectors of the fully iTTL or
eTTL compatible strobe on SW1 have to switched on while all the connectors of the non iTTL or eTTL compatible strobe have to switched off.
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J2 connecter - iTTL or eTTL mode through optional TTL converter
When the camera hot shoe is connected to J2 and
when conventional TTL strobes are used in combination with the optional TTL converter, only the Q lines
of both strobes have to be switched on.
J2 connecter - iTTL or eTTL mode through optional TTL converter +
Manual mode
When the camera hot shoe is connected to J2 and
when 1 conventional TTL strobe is used in combination with the optional TTL converter in combination
with 1 conventional strobe that is used in manual
mode, only the Q line of the TTL strobe has to be switched on.
Vacuum system
When the battery is installed, the HugyCheck system is in ‘stand-by’ mode
and the red LED on the camera hot shoe will blink every 5 seconds. To start
the vacuum procedure, please make sure that the system is in ‘stand-by’
mode. Start the vacuum procedure at least 30 min prior to the dive.
Check the main O-ring and port O-ring and close the housing.
Make sure the port is installed properly.
Install the one-way valve into the 3rd bulkhead and remove the
sealing cap.
Insert the plug on the electrical vacuum pump into the one-way
valve and press the button on the pump.
One way valve installed in 3rd bulkhead
(only on new models).
Hugyfot Housing for Canon 50D
One way valve installed in manifold
(old models which only have 2 bulkheads).
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User manual
Install the one-way valve into the 3rd bulkhead
and remove the sealing cap. Insert the plug on the
electrical vacuum pump into the one-way valve and
press the button on the pump.
When the standard viewfinder is installed the red and green LED’s on the
hot shoe are visible right above the viewfinder, through the back window of
the housing. In case a 45° viewfinder or a straight viewfinder is installed, the
red and green LED’s on the hot shoe are visible through the gap right above
the viewfinder.
With the standard viewfinder
installed, the
LED’s on the
hotshoe are
visible through
the back
window.
-
With the 45° or
straight viewfinder installed,
the LED’s on the
hotshoe are visible through the
gap above the
viewfinder.
As soon as the HugyCheck system detects a pressure between
950 and 850 hPa, the red LED will blink once each second.
When the HugyCheck system detects a pressure between 850 and
750 hPa, the red LED will blink 3 times each second.
When a pressure of 750 hPa (or less) is registered the red LED will
stop blinking and the green LED will take over.
In case the housing hasn’t been closed properly or in case an O-ring should
be faulty, the pressure of 750 hPa will not be reached or will not be kept. In
this case a loss of under pressure will be registered by the system and the
red LED will be reactivated while the green LED will stop blinking.
We strongly recommend to start the vacuum procedure at least
30 minutes prior to the dive.
When opening the housing after a dive, the under pressure first has to be
released by unscrewing the one way valve from the bulkhead.
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Calibration
When using the housing at altitude, the ambient pressure can be a lot lower
than 1.015 hPa (factory settings). In this case the unit has to be calibrated
in order to have a minimum of 250 hPa pressure difference before the
green LED is activated. To calibrate the unit, the HugyCheck calibration
jumper is required.
The HugyCheck calibration jumper has a ‘bridge’
between pin 6 and pin 7.
There are two different ways of calibrating the unit:
1. Calibrating at altitude (< 1.015 hPa)
2. Calibrating at sea level (1.015 hPa)
1. Calibrating at altitude (< 1.015 hPa)
When this unit is used at altitide, the reference pressure of 1.015 hPa (factory settings) has to be changed to the ambient pressure at altitude. To
calibrate the unit at altitude:
- first remove the battery from the camera support;
- remove the hot shoe cable from the Hugycheck system (J1 or J2);
- install the HugyCheck calibration jumper on J2 (convert);
- install the battery in the camera support;
To calibrate at altitude, the HugyCheck calibration
jumper is to be installed on J2 (convert).
The red LED will burn, indicating that the reference pressure has been set to
ambient pressure (< 1.015 hPa).
- remove the battery from the camera support;
- remove the HugyCheck calibration jumper on J2 (convert);
- install the hot shoe cable on the Hugycheck system (J1 or J2);
- install the battery in the camera support.
The system in now ready to be used at altitude.
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2. Calibrating at sea level (1.015 hPa)
When this unit is used at sea level, the reference pressure has to be set to
1.015 hPa (factory settings). To calibrate the unit at sea level:
- first remove the battery from the camera support;
- remove the hot shoe cable from the Hugycheck system (J1 or J2);
- install the HugyCheck calibration jumper on J1 (direct);
- install the battery in the camera support;
To calibrate at sea level, the HugyCheck calibration
jumper is to be installed on J1 (direct).
The yellow LED will burn, indicating that the reference pressure has been set
to 1.015 hPa (factory settings).
- remove the battery from the camera support;
- remove the HugyCheck calibration jumper on J1 (direct);
- install the hot shoe cable on the Hugycheck system (J1 or J2);
- install the battery in the camera support.
The system in now ready to be used at sea level.
Warning
When the unit is used at altitude (< 850 hPa) while calibrated at sea
level, the red LED may already be blinking rapidly even with no under
pressure inside the housing as the system will register a pressure below
850 hPa.
When the unit is used at sea level while calibrated at altitude, the reference pressure (< 1.015 hPa) may be so low that the pump will not reach
the required underpressure in the housing to acivate the green LED. In
this case the red LED will keep on blinking rapidly.
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9. Maintenance and service
The Hugyfot o-rings are of a very high quality. Their lifetime may be estimated
at 5 years. Nevertheless it is advised to have a spare of the main and the port
o-ring.
When the housing isn’t used for a longer period, it should be thoroughly
cleaned and stored away with closed shells in a dry and dark storage (NO
PRESSURE on the main o-ring). The camera should not be stored inside the
housing and the port should not be mounted.While transporting (airplane,
Transport Company, post …) never leave the camera inside the housing.
Due to vibrations the camera as well as the shells can be damaged. Either
pack the shells separately or bolted together.
Never put the housing in the sun.
Aside from the mentioned maintenance commands, the HUGYFOT Canon
50D housing is fairly simple to maintain. Some issues however should be
kept in mind:
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-
When finishing a dive one has to rinse the closed housing with a closed
flash connection (plug or protection cap) under the shower or in a rinsing tub. Never leave the housing to dry up after use in salt water. If it is
not possible to rinse it in fresh water, keep it wet with salt water.
Before opening the housing it has to be completely dry.
See to it that when opening the housing no water can work it’s way
inside. Be carefull with wet hair, diving gloves or wetsuits.
When finishing your diving holiday, soak your housing for 12 hours or
longer. Then wash it and clean it. Certainly at all buttons and in all
corners. (Bolds, buttons, bullets, …).
Clean the bolds with a wet cloth. Remove all salt with maintenance
oil.
Remove the battery from the HugyCheck system.
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A service of all passages is necessary once a year. If you can do this yourself,
the following procedure is to be followed:
-
Unscrew and unmount all the control switches in the housing with the
small socket screw key (gears, exposure lever shaft, wedge caps, selector switch shaft, …).
Remove the o-ring out of its groove. Use the control shaft or a non
metalic tool.
Wash axe and o-ring with soap (do not use degreasers), rinse with
fresh water and dry thoroughly or let it dry for a while.
Slightly grease with Hugyfot-grease.
Position the greased o-ring in its groove, gently slide the axe back in
and mount the control switch back to its proper position.
When the control switches are mounted you may mount the camera
into the housing. Now check all the controls on their proper functioning.
Always perform a pressure test after removing/installing control switches or
perform a testdive without camera inside the housing.
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10. Photo practice
With a Canon 50D camera in a HUGYFOT housing one can take pictures almost completely automated. To use the camera with all its possibilities one
has to beware of some basic principles. These basic principles are explained
in the following chapter.
The “Auto Focus system” (AF) lets the camera focus in most cases, supposing that the subject is positioned in the centre of the viewer. If not one
has to focus on the subject and keep the shutter release button squeezed.
This way the focus is locked. One can now adjust the composition and
shoot. When taking macro images the depth of field is more narrow and
therefore the AF-system can be defective by particles in suspension. In that
case, focus on the subject and lock this position according to the technique
mentioned above. Next, approach or move away from the subject until it is
focussed and press the exposure lever. Due to diffusion and absorption of
light under water, photography under water is limited to a distance of about
1,5 meters. Nevertheless, shots from a distance of over 1,5 meters are possible but the quality of color, sharpness and glow will be considerably less.
Therefore the golden rule in underwater photography states: “The closer
the subject is photographed, the more attractive the colours and the more
sharpen the shots willl be.”
When adjusting the “diaphragm”, one has to consider a decreasing depth
of field when increasing values of the diaphragm are selected. This depth of
field decreases when close up shots are made.
With a longer “shutter speed”, more light can be catched and the brightness of the shots can be increased. The shutter speed is always to be considered in combination with the diaphragm. The built-in light sensor informs
the photographer about the effects of the combination he wishes to apply.
Always consider that shutter speeds slower than 1/60 second could result
in motion blur.
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When taking shots at depths deeper than 3 meters, the use of a “flash” is
necessary to regain the natural colours. The Canon 50D can be combined
with a flash in 3 modes:
Manual flashes: using this mode, the power of the flash can be adjusted.
The camera will direct and synchronise the flash by means of the X-contact.
The result obtained can be observed on the LCD-screen. In case of an overor underexposure, the power of the flash or the distance to the subject has
to be adjusted and a new shot has to be made.
Autonomous flashes: some flashes have a light sensor which registers the
light reflected on the subject. When this sensor registers enough light, it
will automatically shut down the flash. Only by means of the diaphragm,
the flash light can be limited. To obtain a correct simulation, the diaphragm
used on the camera has to be adjusted on the flash. In case of an under- or
overexposure, a higher or lower value of the diaphragm has to be adjusted
on the flash.
TTL flashes: using this mode, camera and flash communicate and set the
right values of diaphragm and shutter speed to obtain the correct amount of
light needed for the shot. This mode can only be obtained by using a Canon
50D compatible flash or by installing the optional TTL converter.
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User manual
11. Accessories
Ports:
According to the objective used on the camera, different ports are available.
- Flat ports for macro lenses
- Wide angle ports for wide angle lenses
- Fish eye ports for fisheye lenses
All these ports can be adjusted in length by means of extension rings. One
wide angle port can therefore serve for different wide angle lenses by only
using extension rings. See www.hugyfot.com for our port charts.
Neoprene protection caps are available for all our ports.
Fisheye port
Wide angle port
Flat port
Extension ring
Gears:
Hugyfot provides gears to control zoom or focus function of most lenses.
These gears consist of two parts, a black delrin outer shell and a white silicon inner part. See www.hugyfot.com for our gear charts.
Delrin gear
Silicon gear
Flash arms and handles:
Hugyfot flasharms are made of ultra light shafts (length 11, 23, 31 or 50
cm) with ball-and-socket joints at both ends (diameter 25mm). These arms
can be connected by means of clamps that are tightened on the ball-andsocket joints. This provides a flexible system that can be moved and locked
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User manual
into any position. This configuration provides the most compact deployment
and offers a wide range of angles in which the flash can be deployed.
Flash arm
Power closing
TTL converter:
Most ‘old style’ TTL strobes can be used with modern digital cameras if the
optional TTL converter is installed inside the housing. The converter restores
TTL communication between the strobe and the digital camera. Please contact info@hugyfot.com to check whether your strobes are compatible.
TTL converter
Available for Nikon
and Canon
Viewfinder:
Hugyfot housings can be equipped with a 45° viewfinder which rotates
360°. This viewfinder enlarges the image of the camera viewfinder and allows shots close to the bottom.
Strobes:
Hugyfot housings can be equipped with a broad range of strobes. Due to
their great performance and very good compatibility with our TTL converter,
we recommend the use of INON Z-240 strobes.
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User manual
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