Magician's Arsenal
MAGICIAN'S
ARSENAL
PROFESSIONAL TRICKS
OF THE TRADE
PALADIN PRESS
BOULDER, COLORADO
"Where does he get those wonderful toys?"
—Jack Nicholson as the Joker in the movie Batman
"Burn, baby, burn!"
—The Penguin (Danny DeVito)
Batman Returns, 1992
"Who is a prisoner?
The man who does not let his imagination run free."
—Anthony Blake (Bill Bixby, who is a real magician)
"The Magician" television series
Magician's Arsenal: Professional Tricks of the Trade
by Lee Scott
Copyright © 1993 by Lee Scott
ISBN 0-87364-741-6
Printed in the United States of America
Published by Paladin Press, a division of
Paladin Enterprises, Inc., P.O. Box 1307,
Boulder, Colorado 80306, USA.
(303) 443-7250
Direct inquiries and/or orders to the above address.
All rights reserved. Except for use in a review, no
portion of this book may be reproduced in any form
without the express written permission of the publisher.
Neither the author nor the publisher assumes
any responsibility for the use or misuse of
information contained in this book.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Fire Flower
Hand Flasher
Impact Smoke Bomb
Gravity Holdout
Hot Shot I
Hot Shot II
Flash Fire
Shotgun-Shell Devices
Ballistic Cane or Umbrella
Sleeve Cannon
Spit Fire
Self-Lighting Match
Exploding Balloons
Exploding Balloons II
Human Blowtorch
Bottle Rocket Gun
Digital Time-Delay Weapon-Firing System
Psychokinetic Scrambler
Fog Machine and F/X Effect with
Fog Machine and Movie Projector
Remote-Controlled Weapon-Firing System
Rattrap Cigarette Weapon-Firing System
Up to One-Hour Time-Delay
Weapon-Firing Method
F/X Remote-Controlled Pull/Reel
Telephone Remote Control
Weapon-Fuzing System
Shocker
Shocker Deluxe
Squib Work
Squib Vest
Whiz Bang I & II
Death Cards
Flamethrower
Ignitor
Lit Candle from Coat
Flash Pots and Flash Pans...
1
2
4
5
7
9
10
12
14
16
18
19
20
22
23
24
25
27
29
31
32
33
34
35
36
38
39
42
46
48
50
51
53
...54
Escape Tools
Escape Tricks
Thermite Escape Methods
Rope Work
Magician's Escape-and-Evasion Kit
Lock Pick Guns (Improvised)
Sparks
Shooting Wand, Cane, or Staff
Self-Lighting Fuze Principle
Miscellaneous Weapons and Effects
Gas Jet
Secret Hiding Places
Burglar Deterrent I
Burglar Deterrent II
Sleeve Darts
Unbelievable
Flame-Lifting Methods
Selected Flames and Fires
Utility Device
Firecracker Devices
Pick-a-Card
Impact Smoke Bomb II
Appendix A
How to Make Flash
Paper and Flash Powder
Appendix B
Improvised Radio Detonation Devices
Appendix C
Initiating Actions
Appendix D
Supply Sources
Appendix E
Magic Dealers
Bibliography
iii
56
58
62
64
65
70
72
74
76
78
80
81
83
85
87
89
90
92
95
97
99
101
103
104
105
106
107
108
WARNING
The procedures to be followed in this manual
and the resulting end products are extremely dangerous. Whenever dealing with explosives or incendiaries, special precautions should be followed in
accordance with industry standards for experimentation and production. Failure to strictly follow
such standards may result in harm to life and limb.
Check all applicable laws before building
anything in this manual. Certain Bureau of
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms regulations, as
well as state and local ordinances, may apply to
some of the improvised firearms and pyrotechnic
iv
devices. Make sure you know and obey all the
laws regarding firearms or explosives. Ignorance
of the law is no excuse.
The author, publisher, and distributors
disclaim any liability from any damages or
injuries of any type that a reader or user of
information contained within this manual may
encounter from the use of said information. Use
this manual and any end product or by-product
at your own risk. This manual is for information
purposes only!
All manufacturing rights reserved by author.
FIRE FLOWER
Every kid at one time or another has had a
squirt flower, which can be bought in any joke
shop very cheaply. The fire flower is nothing
more than the standard squirt flower filled with a
flammable filler. As of this writing, I know of no
magician who has ever used this device in his or
her act. I am sure this book will change that, so
be the first one on the block to try it in your act.
There is not much to constructing this device.
The only things you need are a squirt flower and
a flammable filler. Either 151 rum or lighter fluid
works well. However, I have found that these
squirt flowers generally are poorly constructed
and tend to leak at one or both ends of the
rubber tube where it connects to the flower or
squeeze bulb, so I prefer to use 151 rum as my
filler in the bulb. The squeeze bulb should be
hidden in a pocket where you can easily reach it.
Fire the device at any open flame, but a candle
or lighter is best. It may take you awhile to
become proficient at aiming the flower at a
candle, but it is time well spent. Practice makes
perfect, so don't get discouraged. This trick is
great fun to play with.
While you are at the joke shop picking up a
squirt flower, also buy a squirt ring. This same
effect can also be accomplished with this
novelty item.
Flammable Filler
(use either one)
Standard Joke ShopType Squirt Flower
Or
This same effect can be accomplished with a squirt ring (also found in any joke shop). It
consists of a copper ring (cut from copper tubing), a perfume squeeze bulb, and 1 /16- or
1/8-inch tubing soldered on to ring.
FIRE RING
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
1
HAND FLASHER
The hand flasher is standard in every magician's repertoire. It is a sure-fire attention getter.
If you do stage magic and don't presently use one
of these devices, I highly recommend that you
consider it.
The homemade device in the accompanying
illustration is much more powerful than any hand
flasher I have ever bought. Treat it as you would
a gun—after all, it does fire a modified shotgun
shell—and check your local and state laws. In
some areas it is illegal to construct this device
without a license.
To make, you need a piece of schedule 40,
nominal 3/4-inch-wide steel pipe, no more than 3
inches in length, threaded at one end. Drill a hole
in the center of the pipe cap no more than 1/8
inch in diameter. You will also need a 1 1/2-volt
AAA battery and toggle switch.
We now come to the most important part: the
shotgun shell modification. Start by opening the
top of a 12-gauge shotgun shell, pouring out the
lead shot, and removing the plastic wad and gun
powder. Now place the shell in your shotgun and
fire, thus disarming the primer. Remove the shell
and pry out the dead primer with an ice pick
(push it from the inside with the pick). You now
2
have a hole in the shell where the primer was.
Attach a flashbulb to wire leads and insert the
leads through this hole from the inside. Pour the
gunpowder back in and reinsert the plastic
divider. Now insert 3/4-inch balls of flash paper
in the shell and close it up. The shell is done. Put
the shell into the pipe and put the leads through
the hole in the pipe cap. Make sure the switch is
off, then screw the pipe cap on and attach the
leads to the toggle switch and battery to make a
complete circuit. Attach the toggle switch and
battery to the pipe body with electrical tape or
plastic connectors. The hand flasher is complete.
The unit is compact enough to be totally
concealed in your hand. You might hide the unit
under your coat on a bulldog clip, to be dropped
into your hand at the desired moment. To fire the
device, point it away from any obstructions and
up at a slight angle. Pull the toggle switch and the
device will shoot a large flame up to 20 feet.
Handle with care. I have two toggle switches
wired in series on my hand flasher to avoid accidental firing. The second acts as an arming switch.
CAUTION: This device is intended for stage
use only and should not be used in close quarters.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Toggle Switch
MODIFIED 12-GA. SHOTGUN SHELL
Lead Shot Removed
and Replaced with
Balls of Flash Paper
Primer Removed
Flashbulb Inset in
Gunpowder
Leads (to toggle switch and battery)
NOTE: Threads are cut into, not
added onto, pipe.
Hole in Pipe Cap
for Wire Leads
3/4" Schedule 40 Steel Pipe
with Cap Screwed On
(threads in cap need to be
chased with a bottoming
tap so cap will fully seat
against rim of shell)
NOTE: Entire shotgun shell must be taken apart for lead shot and primer removal.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
3
IMPACT SMOKE BOMB
You've seen these in movies and on television
shows for years. Every cool dude from Batman to
James West carries these around to thwart the
bad guys.
Magicians use smoke bombs for stage shows.
The magician throws a little silver ball on the
ground, and it puffs and emits a cloud of smoke
large enough to allow him to disappear off stage.
The construction of this device is one of the most
closely guarded secrets in the special effects and
magic field. You are really being let in on a major
secret here. The great thing about this device is
that there is absolutely no fuze to light! You
simply throw the ball on the ground, and it does
the rest.
The illustration shows how to construct an
impact smoke bomb. It is essentially a ball
bearing that has paper toy caps glued (or stuck
with double-stick tape) all around it, which is
then wrapped in flash paper. Place this ball on a
piece of aluminum foil and, before wrapping the
foil around it, dump in a few spoonfuls of black
powder. Black powder creates a huge amount of
smoke, so you will not have to obtain hard-tofind chemicals. After you've wrapped up the foil,
the bomb is ready to go.
If you want to keep this device handy, attach a
length of string to the ball. Now rivet a bulldog
clip to the right side of your belt. Clip the ball to
it and slip on a sports coat to hide it. By pressing
the bulldog clip with your inner forearm and
cupping your hand directly below the coat, you
can squeeze the the ball right into your hand.
Enjoy! I know you'll have loads of fun with
these bombs.
NOTE: Bulldog clips can be bought at any
stationery store. Flash paper can be bought at any
magic shop. See the list of magic dealers in
Appendix E.
Aluminum Foil
Flash Paper
Black Powder
Paper Toy Caps
Steel Ball Bearings
4
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
GRAVITY HOLDOUT
This heavy-duty holdout is fairly easy to
construct, and most of the parts can be found in
any hardware or furniture supply store.
You will need to buy a drawer slide, the kind
found on almost all kitchen drawers, and cut the
outer metal bar shorter. To find out how much,
put the bar up to your forearm. Rest the bar on
your forearm with one end up against your wrist.
You will want the bar to be just slightly shorter
than the distance between your wrist and the
bend in your elbow. The bar should in no way
prevent you from bending your arm freely.
Now drill two holes on each end of this bar
and also put two holes in the middle of a new
dog collar and a watchband. Rivet the collar and
the watch band to the bar, as illustrated. From
here, insert the smaller slide with the wheels on
one side into the bar. It should slide up and down
freely inside the bar. Slightly crimp both ends of
the outer bar so the wheel assembly won't fall
out. Affix a clip to the end of the small slide
opposite the wheels. This will hold the load. To
keep the inner slide in place until needed, you will
need to make another crimp in the outer bar just
below the dog collar. This will allow you to
wedge the rear wheel into it. Don't wedge it too
tight, however, as you want it to slide forward
when you need it. Gravity will do the rest.
To use, strap the device to your arm with the
dog collar around your forearm and the watch
band around your wrist. You will want to wear a
coat with loose sleeves. The illustration on page 6
shows one way to use the device. The basic way
is to let the load fall downward into your hand.
The load may be secured either with the clip or
with Velcro. The load can be fairly heavy since
this device will hold up under the worst
circumstances.
If you would like the holdout to trip automatically, you can attach springs on both sides of
the outer bar. Connect them to the inner slide and
then push the slide rearward into the crimp. This
will keep the springs under tension and push the
slide forward into your hand when released.
James West would be proud.
1. Entire assembly is made out
of a drawer slide.
2. Gravity holdout watchband
and collar riveted in place.
3. Load is secured with Velcro
straps or any other similar
attachment.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Side View
5
Below is one method of releasing the
load, using gravity only, into the hand.
When using this
method, cover the
hand with a
handkerchief.
6
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
HOT SHOT I
This little device, a favorite of mine, is worth
its weight in titanium. Imagine, at any time, being
able to produce a huge flame at your fingertips. I
have shot a flame more than 20 feet with this
device. That's a real attention getter.
The device is, as are all great tricks, very simple to
construct. You will need a metal lighter and a nasal
spray bottle (the stream type, not the mist type).
First of all, you need to modify the lighter slightly. With tin snips, cut away one side of the grill on
the lighter so that when the lighter is lit and tilted on
its side the flame is able to stay lit and point upward. With some electrical tape, tape the spray
bottle to the lighter as shown in the illustration.
Prior to attaching as above, you will need to load
the spray bottle with a flammable filler. Lighter fluid
works best, but I have also found 151-proof rum
works well in a pinch. To fill the bottle, work a fingernail under the lip of the nasal insert and pull it out
of the plastic bottle, then replace the nasal tip like a
cork. If the insert won't come out, then you can pour
lighter fluid into a cup and squeeze the empty bottle
and stick it into the cup, nose first to suck up the
fluid. Pull it out and point the nose up; squeeze out
the air and repeat the process until the bottle is full.
The other method of filling the spray bottle is
to use a syringe. These are not always easy to buy
at a drugstore unless you are a diabetic. Go to
your local co-op animal feed store and buy them
there, no problem. Most pharmacies will also
have similar squeeze bottles designed to be easily
opened and refilled for less than a dollar.
After you have filled the spray bottle and
attached it to the lighter, you are set to perform.
To keep the bottle from leaking, place a piece of
tape over the hole in the bottle. Or simply place
the electrical tape lower on the bottle and lighter
setup and replace the original cap on the bottle.
When firing the device, I strongly recommend that you wear a glove. Make sure the
bottle is completely full of flammable liquid.
This device can be fired more than once if you
wipe off excess fluid. The device becomes a
danger to you at this point. Close the lighter
immediately after you fire it. Be very careful
when using indoors. Keep the device well
hidden in your hand so no one will go home
and duplicate it, especially kids.
Use a lot of caution and common sense. This
device will pay for itself time and again.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
HOT SHOT I
With snips,
remove one
side of grill.
Tape
Metal Lighter
Nasal Spray
Bottle Filled with
Lighter Fluid
Spray Bottle Taped
to Lighter
8
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
HOT SHOT II
This device produces the same effect as the Hot
Shot I: to shoot a stream of fire from your hand.
To construct this device, you need a
disposable lighter, a large syringe, a long piece
of 1/8-inch plastic surgical tubing, a 4-inch
length of brass tubing, and a couple of plastic
wire ties or some electrical tape. Using the
illustration below, build the device as shown.
Fill the syringe with lighter fluid. Hold the
lighter in one hand and put the syringe in the
pocket on the side opposite that hand. The
surgical tubing runs through the coat behind
your back and out your sleeve. Light the lighter,
then depress the syringe, forcing out the fuel
which is then ignited by the flame.
Metal Nozzle
Disposable Lighter
Plastic Wire Ties
(holds nozzle on lighter)
Fuel Line Plastic
Tubing
Syringe
Lighter
Fluid Filler
To use, place the syringe in opposite pocket
and run fuel line through coat to device. To
ignite lighter, push syringe.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
FLASH FIRE
A brilliant flash of fire any time during your
act is sure to attract attention. It puts sparkle into
any performance and is simple to construct.
To construct, start by boring a slightly
oversize 3/4-inch hole through a mousetrap. Also
do this to the top board of a wooden frame.
Attach the mousetrap to the board so the holes
line up. Affix the mousetrap to the board with
electrical tape or small nails.
Open a 12-gauge shotgun shell and remove
the lead shot. Replace it with 3/4-inch balls of
flash paper and close up the shell. Insert the shell
through the holes in the mousetrap/wooden
frame setup. Bend the fly bar on the mousetrap to
form a point so it will strike primer on the
shotgun shell. Cut a fly bar release peg out of a
1/4-inch wooden dowel. Attach this to the
mousetrap as shown and pull back the fly bar.
Allow the fly bar to be held back by the peg. Also
have a pull cord attached to the peg. At this point
the device is ready to be fired, so use caution.
The device should be hidden in something to
conceal how it works The illustration shows it
hidden in a top hat. I realize that few people use
top hats in their act any more. It is just shown as
an example only. I think hiding it behind a large
enough prop would work well.
Make sure, before you use the flash fire device
in any room, that the ceiling is high enough. Although the fire may not light the ceiling on fire, it
is sure to leave a black burn mark—not good PR.
This is a great little device. Build one, fool
around with it, and see how it works for you. I
use very thin fish line as a pull cord. The line
should be long enough to allow you to fire the
device from anywhere on stage.
This is just one of the many
applications of this device.
10
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Mousetrap
12-Ga. Shotgun Shell
(cut-away view of the
shotgun shell)
Mousetrap Fly Bar
Bent to Strike Primer
on Shotgun Shell
Lead Shot Removed
and Replaced with
Balls of Flash Paper
3/4" Hole Bored
through Mousetrap
and Frame
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
11
SHOTGUN-SHELL DEVICES
The following three devices are used to fire a ball
of flash paper into the air. Before you tamper with
the shell, it is very important that you remove the
lead shot. Open the shell with a nonmetallic object,
such as pencil, from the front and pour out the shot.
The shell is still dangerous at this point. There have
been many cases where people have been killed or
injured by blanks. Treat the shell as if it were still
loaded. Each of the three devices will be discussed
individually.
Figure 1 is an electrically fired shell. To make
it, you must take apart the entire shell, including
the primer. First remove the shot. Then put the
shell in a shotgun and fire it. This safely disables
the primer. Next remove the dead primer by
pushing it out from the inside with an ice pick,
thus leaving a hole in the shell. Then thread the
wire leads through this hole and out the other
end. Now hook a piece of fine Nichrome wire to
FIGURE 1
Nichrome
Wire
the leads. (Nichrome wire, usually called "Solar
Igniters," can be found in hobby shops. It is used
to ignite model rocket motors.) After this, pull
the leads back so the Nichrome rests on the
bottom of the shell. Now fill the shell with a little
gunpowder, about 3 to 5 grams, so the Nichrome
rests directly in the powder. I recommend
Pyrodex gunpowder. Now insert the spacer into
the shell and then a large ball of flash paper. The
paper should fit loosely.
From here it is very important to be careful.
Ensure that the switch is off, then hook the leads
to a battery and switch. I use a toggle switch, but
almost any sort of switch works. Radio Shack is
your best source for switches. You may want to
fire the shell by placing it in a 3/4-inch pipe with
a pipe cap. The leads will come through a small
hole in the pipe cap and then connect to the
battery and switch.
All three devices use 12-ga.
shotgun shells.
Ball of Flash Paper
Toggle Switch
12
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Figure 2 is simple to construct. After removing
the lead shot and inserting the flash paper, you
will need to poke a small hole in the plastic part
of the shell. Use a nonmetallic object such as a
pencil. Poke the hole just above the metal into the
gunpowder portion of the shell. Now insert a
fuze directly through the hole into the powder.
All that is left is to light the fuze and set it
upright. You may wish to have some sort of a
timer to light the fuze. A simple 5-to-7 minute
fuze can be a cigarette hooked to the fuze, as in
the illustration.
FIGURE 2
Ball of Flash Paper
Cigarette
5-7 Minute Delay
1/16" Hole in Shell (in the plastic)
Fuze
Figure 3 is a device that is to be thrown or
dropped on a hard, flat surface. Construct the
basic device as above. You then glue a BB or
small ball bearing to the primer and connect cloth
streamers to the other end. To detonate the de-
Cloth Streamers
FIGURE3
BB Glued to Primer (use waterbased adhesive, as solvents in
many glues will kill primer
compunds)
vice, throw the shell up in the air and it should
land on the BB, which will fire the shell. This
device is dangerous because you do not know in
which direction or at which exact angle the shell
will fire. Be careful.
Ball of Flash Paper
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
13
BALLISTIC CANE OR UMBRELLA
This device could be incorporated either into a
cane or umbrella. In the illustration the performer is
shown firing a confetti load. Balls of flash paper
could be substituted for the confetti.
To construct, you need to buy a length of 3/4-inch
seamless tubing used in 12-gauge shotguns. A gunsmith will be able to provide you with this. (Tolerances are fairly loose and there are innumerable
dimensional specs for some types of pipe and tubing,
so the best solution might be to take the shell in
question down to the pipe shop and try it for fit. If it
fits, fine; if it's too snug, take the pipe or tubing to a
brake shop and have someone use a brake cylinder
hone to slightly enlarge the chamber). It should be
about 20 inches long.
With this piece of tubing, the rest is easy.
You also need a heavy aluminum or steel cane,
which can be bought at a medical or hospital
supply shop, and a breech plug that will fit into
the cane and be retained in place by screws
through the wall of the aluminum or steel cane
and into the breech plug, as illustrated. Open
the shotgun shell, remove the lead shot, and
14
insert confetti or flash paper as the load. If you
choose flash paper, you will need to remove the
wad in the shell for guaranteed ignition. It will
usually light either way, but I always remove
the wad. You must also glue or tape a BB to the
primer on the shell.
Insert the shotgun shell into the barrel and then
slide this tube into the cane, and you're ready to go.
The only other thing that I advise is to incorporate a
cotter pin through the cane into the barrel and out
the other side. This will act as a safety pull pin and
keep the barrel from falling out if you do not have
two hands on the cane. Run a key ring through the
end of the cotter pin.
The ballistic cane uses a sliding "trombone
principle" to fire. When you slide the barrel sharply
back against the breech plug, the BB glued to the
primer fires the shotgun shell.
CAUTION: Never fire this device at or in the
direction of spectators. Even with flash paper or
confetti, this device is still a gun and will cause
serious injury at close range.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Bicycle Grip
Trombone Principle (sliding
front barrel rearward sharply
fires cane/gun)
BB Taped to Primer on Shell
NOTE:
Closeup of
Firing
Mechanism
Remove lead shot in shell. Replace with confetti or flash paper.
Barrel—3/4" Seamless
Steel Tubing
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
15
SLEEVE CANNON
This wonderful little crowd pleaser will wake
up any act. The cannon is basically an improvised
shotgun. It consists of a length of seamless tubing
threaded and capped on one end. For a 12-gauge
load, you need a 3/4-inch inner-diameter (ID) tube,
whereas a 20-gauge takes a 1/2-inch tube.
Preparing the shotgun shell to be fired electrically is really simple. First open up the shell
and remove everything. I mean everything: the
lead shot, the wad, and the powder. Then put this
empty shell into your shotgun and fire it at the
ground. This will take care of the primer. Next
take the shell out of the gun and get your trusty
ice pick. Put the sharp end of the pick into the
shell and poke out the primer. This may take a
little force, but it will pop out.
This done, you now have a hole in the shell
where the primer was. Run two insulated wire
leads into this hole and on out the front end of
the open shell. The leads feed through a 1/8-inch
hole in the pipe cap. Connect a flashbulb to these
leads and pull the attached bulb back into the
shell so it rests on the bottom of the shell close to
the primer hole. Reinsert all the gunpowder into
the shell so it covers the flashbulb. Then put back
the wadding. In place of the lead shot, put confetti and paper streamers. Attach these leads
16
coming out of the shell to the battery and firing
switch, which you have checked to ensure it's off.
I also suggest an arming switch somewhere in the
circuit. Study the illustrations if you have any
questions about any part of the above procedure.
Because the cannon is fired from the forearm,
you need a special sheath. It's pretty easy to make
one. You will need some scrap leather and two
arm straps. I use a leather dog collar (yes, a new
one) and a leather watch band. You will also need
to snap rivet the sheath together. (Read that
"snap rivet" not "pop rivet.") You will not find
snap rivets at the hardware store. Look for them
at the hobby shop around the leather crafts. The
illustration shows how the cannon fits into the
sheath. You may wish to attach an end strap (not
shown) to keep the device in the sheath safely.
To fire the device, point it up in the air and trip
the arming switch. Grasp the push-button switch
with the free hand and push the button. POW!!!
CAUTION: Never fire this device toward
people. Remember, you are firing a shotgun shell!
At close range this device is capable of causing
serious injury such as eye injury. Also do not fire
this device above people's heads. The spread
pattern is the same as any shotgun shell.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Modified Shotshell
(primer removed)
Confetti
(discard lead shot)
Leads go to
opposite
pocket.
Leather Sheath (with
forearm straps)
Flash Bulb
(set in
gunpowder)
3/4" Seamless Tubing with
One End Threaded and
Capped (use copper or steel)
Shell in Cannon
NOTE: The odds are good that standard-dimension 3/4-inch seamless tubing is close enought to work here, but if you have problems
fitting the shell into the pipe, have the pipe modified in a machine shop or simply have a gunsmith thread one end of a piece of 12gauge steel bore.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
17
SPIT FIRE
I don't know how many of you have ever
fooled with flash paper before, but it's great stuff.
You can find this special paper at magicians
supply stores (check the phone book or see the
list of suppliers in Appendix E).
This is a little trick I invented to pass the time
away. You could also use this to impress friends
or your audience. All you need are a piece of 1/4inch tubing (plastic or metal), available from your
hobby shop, and a book of flash paper about the
size of cigarette papers. Tear the pieces of paper
into fourths and roll them into little balls.
Cut and paint the tube to look like a cigarette.
Place one of the flash paper balls into the tube,
and you're ready to perform or amuse. This
device is basically a glorified pea shooter.
I like to light a candle and shoot the paper
balls through it. Flash paper will ignite into a
bright flame near any ignition source. As soon as
the paper ball passes through the candle flame, it
shoots out the other side and looks like a miniature meteor. Shooting it through a lighter also
works well.
1/4" Rigid Hollow
Tubing (painted to
look like cigarette)
Book of Flash Paper
18
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
SELF-LIGHTING MATCH
An old episode of "Twilight Zone" sparked
this idea. The name of the episode was "The Last
Rites of Jeff Myrtlebank." I won't go into it, but I
suggest you watch this show to see the impact of
this trick. The magician holds an ordinary
wooden kitchen match. He concentrates on the
match, and it lights! No false moves. It's as clean
as that.
This is basically an electric match, which is
used in demolitions. The illustration shows how
the device is constructed. You will need to buy a
small toggle switch, a battery, and some fine
Nichrome wire.
To construct the trick match, first place a piece
of the Nichrome wire around the length of the
match as shown. The middle red part of the Nichrome needs to touch the red tip of the match. The
toggle switch feeds through the hole you have cut
in the match box. The battery also fits into the
matchbox, which, by the way, contains no
matches. This entire unit is palmed in your hand
with the wire leads running down your forefinger
and thumb. The match is held normally.
You could first put a cigarette into your
mouth and then fire up the match, or you could
light a candle, etc. Once lit, you can easily blow
out the match and set the entire unit down on the
table. All the audience will see from a distance is
a burnt-out match and a matchbox. The thin wire
leads will not be noticed.
If you have trouble getting the Nichrome to
stay on the match, use some clear Scotch tape. It
will never be noticed.
If you love magic, this trick is for you. It's
about as close to real magic as you will ever come.
People will swear you're an agent of the devil.
Wooden Match
Nichrome
Wire
(used to
ignite
model
rockets)
Fit Unit in Match Box
Hold up a match, and without moving your hand, the
match lights all by itself.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
19
EXPLODING BALLOONS
This is one of the most dangerous items in
this book. Let me start by saying that under no
circumstances should this device be used indoors.
A friend of mine who is a welder tested this
device for me and made the mistake of testing it
in his shop. Upon detonation, a huge fireball
resulted that blew out the windows in his shop
and almost set his roof on fire. He damaged his
hearing and almost went to jail for building a
bomb. Enough of my preaching against my little
infernal machine.
This device is for use on an open outdoors
stage only. To build it, you need only a few
innocent items.
Large round balloon
Flash cube
Alarm clock
Wire leads with alligator clips
Book of paper matches
Petroleum jelly
Tank of acetylene gas (or other flammable gas)
Battery (must be strong enough to ignite the
flash cube)
Long metal pole or antenna
Wood screw
20
The instructions on the illustration explain
how this device works. Start by making the flash
cube ignitor. Remove the plastic shell from it and
glue match heads around the bulb. Discard the
shell. Tape the pole to the large battery. Glue or
tape the flash cube to the top of the pole. Attach
the leads to the cube with the alligator clips and
run the leads down the pole.
Drill a hole in the clear plastic clock face.
Insert the wood screw in this hole but don't let it
reach the clock face itself. Prior to this, take off
the plastic clock face and remove the hour hand if
you want a minute delay or the minute hand if
you want an hour delay. Connect the rest of the
wiring to make a complete circuit.
At the last minute, inflate the balloon with
acetylene gas. Never transport filled balloons in
your car. If a filled balloon exploded in your car
from a spark (cigarette, etc.), your car would be
engulfed in a fireball. Put the petroleum jelly on
the inside of the neck of the balloon. This helps
form an airtight fit around the pole and wire
leads once the balloon is filled.
Any sort of triggering or timing system would
work in place of the alarm clock delay system.
This system is one of the oldest around for
detonating time bombs.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Remove
Plastic
Casing Shell
Large Balloon
Filled with
Acetylene Gas
Flash Cube
DO NOT USE
INDOORS!
Time-Delay System
(alarm clock and battery)
FILLING THE BALLOON
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
21
EXPLODING BALLOONS II
This simple device for outdoor use can be
made quite easily. Inflate a balloon with equal
parts of helium and acetylene gas. Tie a 3-foot
length of fuze to the mouth of the inflated
balloon. That's all there is to it. Release the
balloon into the night sky. It will float up into the
air and explode into a large ball of flames.
CAUTION: Do not, under any circumstances,
construct or use this device indoors.
Balloon Filled with
Acetylene and Helium
Long Fuze (also
acts as a string
to hold on to
balloon)
Light the fuze and release. The balloon
floats up in the air and explodes when the
fuze reaches the mouth of the balloon.
22
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
HUMAN BLOWTORCH
One of the oldest forms of magic, fire eating
has intrigued audiences for thousands of years. Its
secrets have been passed down from generation
to generation. Very few books on magic cover it,
and, as usual, magicians are tight-lipped about it.
Recently a few books with information about fire
eating have appeared, but they are available only
to magicians and through magic dealers. If you
want to take up this fascinating art, I suggest you
contact the magic dealers located in Appendix E
and buy some of the books listed. You won't be
disappointed.
The human blowtorch effect takes practice
and lots of guts. To do it, you need some
unleaded gasoline and a nice, big open space.
Small backyards and apartment balconies won't
do! An outdoor basketball court or a dirt field
will work. Even standing in the middle of your
street is okay as long as no cars are around.
You will also need a length of wood or metal
tubing. I use a wooden dowel because metal heats
up pretty quickly. Wrap the end of the rod with
strips of cotton cloth and dip it into the gasoline.
Put about half a mouthful of gasoline in your
mouth and move out of the area of the gas
container. With a match, not a lighter, light the
end of the gas-soaked dowel. Turn toward the
open space. Take a deep breath through your
nose and exhale through your mouth, spitting the
gasoline directly into the flame of the dowel.
Close your lips and remove the dowel. Whatever
you do, don't inhale through your mouth! In fact,
don't inhale at all, even through your nose, until
the flame is out.
That's it. With practice, you can create various
flame sizes, patterns, and distances. Enjoy!
CAUTION: Always have two methods to
extinguish a fire when performing this because, at
some point, you will have an accident; every
performer does. Two fire extinguishers will work,
but a fire extinguisher and swimming pool are
even better. Be prepared!
If caught in a fire, butane lighters will explode
in your pocket. Thus, don't use them or have
them on your person when performing this trick.
Performer is using unleaded gasoline
as the flammable substance.
Don't inhale!
23
BOTTLE ROCKET GUN
This device is great for any outdoor performances, not just for the Fourth of July. I have
used this to entertain many audiences, and they
always enjoy it.
The entire unit is constructed from metal
(brass or aluminum) pipe fittings, a toggle switch
(which acts as a trigger) and a 9-volt battery, a
piece of Nichrome wire (see self-lighting match
for info on this stuff), and some wire leads.
Attach all the components to the pipe-shaped
gun as shown. Attach the Nichrome wire to the
fuze of the bottle rocket and you're set to go.
Point the gun up in the night sky and fire.
Under no circumstances should this device be
used to chase cats up an alley at midnight.
Bottle Rocket
FOR OUTDOOR
USE ONLY!
Tape
Nichrome Wire
Gun (made
completely from
pipe fittings)
Bicycle Grip
NOTE: Nichrome wire is readily available in hobby shops under the name "Solar Igniters." They are used to ignite model rocket engines.
24
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
DIGITAL TIME-DELAY WEAPON-FIRING SYSTEM
This method was developed to fire a weapon
with a time delay of up to 99 hours and 99 minutes.
The system uses a countdown timer that has been
modified slightly so that an additional electric circuit
may be incorporated. It is very simple and requires
no extensive knowledge of electronics.
The illustration shows how to make one. First
you remove the back of the countdown timer.
Next, cut the beeper from its leads and connect
the wires from the relay and battery to these leads
on the timer and the leads on the opposite side of
the relay to the servoreceiver box. Mount the
microswitch on the side of this box so the servoarm will be pressing down on the microswitch
lever, thus keeping it depressed. Connect the
wires from the microswitch to the electric door
lock actuator on the barrel of the pistol. Use the
setup shown on page 24 for connecting the
electric door lock actuator to the pistol.
The "workings" description in the illustration
gives all the info needed for firing this system.
The relay used can be found at Radio Shack.
Any hobby shop that sells remote-controlled
aircraft, cars, and boats should have the servomechanism and receiver.
CAUTION: Always use blanks in the weapon,
never live ammunition.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
25
Remove
beeper from
timer. Hook
those leads to
leads on relay.
Microswitch
Back (with panel
removed)
Servoarm and
Receiver
Beeper
Modified
Digital
Countdown
Timer
Leads to Electric
Door Lock
Actuator (pulls
trigger on gun)
WORKINGS
1. Always test your circuits.
2. Timer counts down to zero, thus completing that circuit.
3. Relay opens.
4. Servo loses power and releases depressed microswitch.
5. Microswitch, which had been held in off position, is now open and on.
6. With microswitch on, the electric door lock actuator is activated and pulls trigger on gun.
7. Gun fires.
8. Most countdown timers have up to 99-hour and 99-minute delay.
26
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
PSYCHOKINETIC SCRAMBLER
This heavy-duty radio-jamming device, invented during World War I, was the only radiojamming equipment in existence at that time. I
have used one to jam police and fire frequencies,
and radio and television reception presents
absolutely no problem.
The jammer uses a Model "T" spark coil. At
first you may ask, "Where in the world can I
find one of these?" They're easier to find than
you may think. I can usually find them at
science supply stores, ham radio shops, or
vintage-car dealers. Or you can always order
one from the J.C. Whitney Company (P.O. Box
8410, Chicago, IL 60680). The coil costs about
S40 at this writing.
The unit illustrated is built into a wooden
frame that fits into a briefcase or suitcase. Two
holes are drilled into the top of the case to attach the two antennas. The illustration shows
how to wire the jammer; the only thing not illustrated is the fact that the unit must be
grounded. Easy enough.
This device's uses in magic should be obvious,
but I will explain anyway. You mentalists
probably figured this out already. Briefly, you
have an assistant in another room with the
jammer. At the agreed-upon time, you turn on
someone else's TV or radio. You pretend to
concentrate your mental powers on it, and, all of
a sudden, the reception is drastically disrupted.
You attribute this to the powerful vibrations your
brain emits.
If you really want power, connect this device
to a television tower. Set the spark gap at a large
arc. You will blow away TV and radio reception
for several blocks. Radio Shack has all the
equipment you need to build a nice tower.
Oh, by the way, this device is illegal to build
(Federal Communications Commission
regulations, you know).
OTHER METHODS FOR JAMMING
CB Radio
Get your old CB radio out—you remember,
from the 1970s. Every idiot, including yours
truly, had one. Next, you need to buy a linear
amplifier. Again, they are illegal to use but not
that difficult to locate. You can often find one at
swap meets, flea markets, truck stops, or from
radio freaks. A CB normally puts out about 5
watts, but a linear amplifier can boost this up to
400 watts. With this device in place on your CB,
all you need to do is key the mic and it puts out
enormous and excessive RF energy. It amplifies
two-way radio signals far beyond normal output.
Another method of jamming can be accomplished with a Tesla Coil. This is fun to play with
but is very dangerous. It can cause major
problems with TV and radio reception. A word
of caution: a Tesla Coil can destroy computers,
erase tapes, and completely ruin all electrical
equipment even if they are not plugged in. That's
what these coils were invented to do, provide
electricity without the need for wires. One man
even told me how the coil erased the magnetic
strips on the back of his credit cards. I mention
Tesla Coils for academic purposes only.
Grid Dip Meter
Still another method of audio jamming may be
accomplished with a grid dip meter. This piece of
equipment is used to test resonant frequencies of
circuits or antennas. It is actually a low-power,
wide-band transmitter. A grid dip meter will
overlay an audio tone over the reception of a TV
or radio.
This method is one of my favorites. You can
cause major irritation in your neighborhood by
removing the suppress caps from the plug leads
on your lawn mower, trimmer, hedge clipper, or
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
27
even your car. Or you can remove the suppressive
component(s) from items like hair dryers, electric
drills, or vacuum cleaners. Anyone in your
neighborhood who has a TV or radio on will get
rotten reception until you decide to turn off your
improvised jammer. Attaching a simple antenna,
such as a wire coat hanger, will increase the range
of these devices.
At close range this will interfere with all
reception and transmission over a broad
band. Connect antenna to a television tower
for more range. Spark gap should be set at a
larger arc. This device works through walls.
Model T Spark Coil
Battery 6-12 Volt
(automobile battery)
Semiauto Telegraph Key
(set for always sending)
Wooden Frame and Shelves
Entire unit is built into a briefcase or suitcase.
SCHEMATIC
On/Off Switches (telegraph key)
6-12 Volt DC,
High-Capacity
Battery
28
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
FOG MACHINE AND F/X EFFECT WITH
FOG MACHINE AND MOVIE PROJECTOR
and drop it into the hot water. Place the lid over
the urn. Instant fog will come out the end of the
hose. To stop the fog, simply remove the basket
of dry ice. This device will produce huge clouds
of fog and is great for stage or outdoor use.
A movie projector can be used to create the
illusion of someone materializing in the fog. A
slide projector will work also.
Colored lights can be used to create colored
fog. By projecting colored light from the base of
the stage onto the white fog, you can make the
fog any color you wish.
A fog machine has many theatrical uses, and
although an industrial model costs a lot, an
improvised one can be constructed easily with a
few tools and a little time.
To build the fog machine, you need an old
coffee urn, a wire mesh basket that will fit into
the urn, a long piece of vacuum cleaner hose or
tubing of that size, and some dry ice. Cut a hole
in the side of the urn and attach the hose to it.
Place about a gallon of water in the urn; it should
be below the hose. Turn the urn on and let the
water heat up. Place the dry ice into the basket
Large Coffee Urn
Fill urn one-third full with dry ice and water.
Smoke will float downward.
Use slanted stage if possible.
Use colored lights to
produce colored smoke
Stage
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
29
1. Lighting should be very dim.
2. Projector and fog machine should
be hidden from view.
Fog Machine
Movie Projector
30
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
REMOTE-CONTROLLED WEAPON-FIRING SYSTEM
These next few devices were developed so the
magician could, without being present, fire a
handgun loaded with blanks.
The first system uses an electric door lock
actuator and a standard remote-controlled, handheld unit and servomechanism, much the same as
a remote-controlled toy aircraft or car. You can
buy the remote unit at almost any hobby shop. A
12-volt model #2504050 electronic door lock
may be bought from Techne, 916 Commercial St.,
Palo Alto, CA 94303, or from similar stores that
specialize in security systems.
The illustration shows how to construct the
unit. Tape the door lock to the barrel of the semiautomatic pistol. It must be a pistol with a fixed
barrel, such as a Ruger .22, Colt Woodsman, HiStandard, or similar model. The actuator rod
connects directly to the trigger assembly. The
leads from the door go to the first battery and to
a microswitch (available from Radio Shack). The
microswitch lever is directly in front of the servo-
arm. The leads from the servobox connect to the
battery and the receiver. The hand-held unit controls it all. The entire unit and pistol fit into a
wooden frame that keeps the pistol barrel in a
horizontal position (wooden frame not shown in
illustration). To fire the weapon, chamber a
round and push the lever on the hand-held
remote. The receiver gets the message, and the
servo pushes against the microswitch, which, in
turn, activates the electric door lock actuator and
causes the rod to pull the trigger on the gun. This
all happens within one or two seconds.
If you would like to fire the weapon in a "fully
automatic" capacity, you can replace the door
lock with an electric toothbrush. Remove the
toothbrush and insert a rod that is the same size
as the brush. Connect the rod to the gun trigger.
When the hand-held remote lever is pushed, the
pistol will fire as in a fully automatic mode. You
may wish to use a longer magazine so you can
fire more rounds.
Never use live ammo
in any of these
weapons!
Semiautomatic Weapon
(loaded with blanks)
Electric Door-Lock Actuator
Receiver
NOTE: -auto firing, replace the
with an door-lock
electric
toothbrush
actuator
Hand-Held
Remote
WARNING: Federal license may be
required to construct this device.
Never use live ammo in this weapon.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
31
RATTRAP CIGARETTE WEAPON-FIRING SYSTEM
This is a method of firing a weapon that
provides a 5- to 7-minute delay. As in previous
methods, the shooter need not be present after
the cigarette is lit.
As shown in the accompanying illustration,
the pistol is set into a wooden frame. The gun
is held firmly in place by wooden blocks.
Behind the gun is a rattrap screwed into the
frame. Remove everything from the rattrap (not
a mousetrap) except the fly bar (the part of the
trap that flies over and kills the rat). Connect a
piece of string from the fly bar to the base of
Handgun (cocked,
loaded with blanks)
the rattrap nearest the gun. The fly bar should
be under tension so that if the string were now
severed the rattrap would snap. Next, connect
another string from the fly bar to the trigger on
the gun. Cock the gun. All that is left is to
separate the strands on the first string and
insert a lit cigarette. The cigarette burns down
through the string, and this in turn releases the
fly bar, which pulls the trigger on the gun.
A regular cigarette burning on its own takes
about five minutes to burn down. A "100" burns
about seven minutes.
Wooden Frame
Lit Cigarette (5-7 minute delay)
Lit cigarette burns down and through
string. Fly bar pulls other string and,
in turn, the trigger on the gun.
32
Rattrap (armed)
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
UP TO ONE-HOUR TIME-DELAY
WEAPON-FIRING METHOD
This is another simple, straightforward way to
fire a gun using a hands-off method.
The wooden frame in the illustration has the
entire unit built into it. The gun is held in place
in the cocked position with wooden blocks.
From the trigger of the gun, a string runs to a
rattrap (not a mousetrap) set for firing (killing
the rat). The first string is attached to the fly
bar of the trap, and a second string attaches the
trap's trip lever to a kitchen timer set for the
1" Bore
desired length of time. Bolt the rattrap and the
kitchen timer to the frame to keep them firm.
The device fires the gun when the string
winds around the arm of the kitchen timer.
This pulls the trip lever, which in turn pulls the
spring-loaded fly bar on the rattrap and thus
the trigger.
As with all these types of devices, this weapon
is very dangerous in the wrong hands. Be careful
to whom you show this.
Wooden Frame
Handgun (cocked,
loaded with blanks)
Rattrap (armed)
WARNING:
Kitchen Timer
THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
33
F/X REMOTE-CONTROLLED PULL/REEL
A pull has many applications in special effects
work. I will describe how this device is constructed and give a couple of examples of how to
use it.
You need to go to a hunting and fishing store
(or K-Mart will do) and buy a good electric fishing
reel. You will also need a remote-control unit,
which consists of a servobox and a hand-held
remote-control device (hobby shop). You will also
need a small microswitch (Radio Shack), some
wire, and a pine board on which to build it.
Brackets may be bought or made from scrap metal.
Look at the illustration and you will see the
device ready to use. Basically, the hand-held
remote control unit sends its signal to the
Motorized Fishing
Reel (battery
removed)
servobox, and the servomechanism moves and
pushes the microswitch arm, which completes the
circuit. Remove the battery from the fishing reel
and connect it directly to the servobox. The
fishing reel has its "reel in" button depressed and
taped in place. Once the circuit is complete, the
extended fishing line is reeled in.
How could this device be used in special
effects work? You could use it to pull something across a stage. With thinner line, you
could suspend the device above the stage and
use it to levitate something light. Use your
imagination, friends; after all, I wrote this book
for creative people.
Switch Taped
Down in "On"
Position
Hand-Held
Remote
9-Volt Battery Clip
(from reel)
34
Servoarm and Box
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
TELEPHONE REMOTE-CONTROLLED
WEAPON-FUZING SYSTEM
This is quite possibly the most dangerous
device in the book. In the wrong hands, it is
deadly. I am including it here for informational
purposes only.
This device lets you fire any gun from any
telephone in the world. It's not at all complicated
to construct, and all of the components, except
for the electric door-lock actuator, may be bought
at Radio Shack. (For the address to order this
device, see remote-controlled weapon-firing
system on page 31.)
Consult the illustration below as you read the
following description of how the system works.
To fire the gun, you simply pick up a telephone
(regular home, business, pay phone, cellular, or
cordless) and dial the pager number. The pager
relay station picks up the telephone message and
in turn sends out the signal that trips the
pager/beeper. The pager has two leads soldered
directly to the piezo buzzer in it (you can remove
the buzzer if you wish). These leads are wired
directly to the two leads connected to that buzzer.
(Take the back off the beeper to see this.) From
the pager/beeper the wire leads connect to a small
relay. On the other side of the relay are the leads
connected to the electric door-lock actuator and a
second battery. The electric door-lock actuator in
turn pulls the trigger on the gun. (Refer back to
page 31 if you do not understand how this door
lock is connected to a handgun.)
This device has great potential for the special
effects expert with an imagination, but do
remember that it's dangerous when misused.
Relay
Electric Door Lock
Actuator (pulls trigger
on gun)
Start
Telephone
(anywhere
in the world)
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
35
SHOCKER
The shocker is for all you practical jokers out
there. It is a nonlethal way to provide a small
shock of electricity to anyone who is foolish
enough to shake hands with you.
The accompanying illustrations show how to
construct the device. You need to buy a small
step-up transformer from a hobby shop. Hook up
the battery pack and hand unit to the transformer
as shown. Connect the hand unit to a leather
glove. The most important thing to remember is
to not throw the toggle switch until you have the
spectator's hand in yours. If you activate the
switch and then shake hands, the device will not
work. I won't bore you with why; it's the way
transformers work. Follow the instructions to the
letter. I don't want you to kill anyone.
Don't use this device on young children or
elderly people. Kids will cry, and some elderly
person may have a pacemaker that will respond
adversely to your form of humor.
I prefer to shake hands with some big beefeating oaf who wants to show the world how all
my tricks work. Shake hands to show no hard
feelings, then ZAP him.
Male/Female
Connections for Easy
Sleeve Hookup
Leather Glove
36
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
EXPLODED ILLUSTRATION (OF HAND UNIT)
Rubber or Leather Washers
Rubber Tubing
Insulation Sleeve
Leads to Transformer
NOTE: Wear gloves when using this device.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
37
SHOCKER DELUXE
Let me start by saying that this device serves
no purpose in magic that I can think of. I
included it for all you practical jokers out there.
Fellow magicians probably won't use this one in
their acts, but some creative person will probably
come up with a use for it. But use with care
because it is dangerous.
The construction of the hand unit is the same
as for the shocker previously described, but the
unit providing the actual shock is quite different.
Connect the leads from the glove to an 80,000-
volt stun gun. The stun gun is a device used by
bouncers, cops, or anyone who shells out the
money for it to knock some troublemaker on his
can. This device works devastatingly well. Its
manufacturers say that no permanent damage is
done to the person you use it on—other than a
bruised ego. Hide the stun gun in your pocket
well out of sight, and when you shake hands with
your victim, throw the switch.
This provides great laughs at parties. Some
people say I have a very twisted sense of humor.
Shocker Glove (see shocker device on page 37)
Leads (modified to fit
over stun gun rods)
Shake hands with
spectator/victim. Upon
grasping his hand, activate
the stun gun.
38
80,000-Volt Stun Gun
(hidden under your
clothes or in your pocket)
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
SQUIB WORK
A squib is a small explosive device that is
attached to an actor to simulate a gunshot
wound. A small plastic bag filled with fake blood
(usually Karo syrup and red food coloring) is
placed over the squib, and the bag ruptures when
the squib is detonated. To prevent the actor from
being injured by the backside of the squib, he
wears a small metal plate taped to his body
directly behind it.
The illustration demonstrates how the squib is
placed on the body and the wire leads are connected
to the firing box (a push-button switch and a battery). Sometimes an actor will have the box hidden
on his person or out of view in his hand, or much
longer leads that run out of sight of the camera may
be used. If the latter method is used, an assistant,
usually a special-effects expert, fires the squib. The
illustration also shows how a fired squib tears open
the wearer's shirt. It feels like a firecracker going off
on your body, and, basically, it is.
Squibs have many other uses in the entertainment industry. You could simulate a gunshot hole
in a wall. First you drill a hole in the wall, set the
squib in it, and run your wire leads behind the
wall. Then plaster and paint the wall and you're
set. If you are working in a structure whose
owner would not appreciate holes drilled in the
walls, you will need to construct a fake drywall in
front of the real wall. I recommend this method
anyway. It's much easier to do the wiring behind
the fake wall because it is movable.
As with body shots, the squib is activated
when a blank gun is fired at it. Machine-gun
shots work basically the same way but require a
more elaborate setup. The best method involves
pounding a series of nails vertically into a board
so they protrude about 2 inches. There should be
one nail for each squib, and the nails should be in
a straight line. Attach one wire lead from each
squib to its own separate nail on the board. All
the other leads are attached to a free nail, which
is not in the board. A battery is also incorporated
in this series, of course. To fire the squibs, take
the free nail and run it down the nails on the
board. This is like running a match down a wall
to light it.
This device is fun to fire, but it takes hours to
construct and the effect is over in about 3 seconds.
CAUTION: Do not fire a blank gun directly
at a human! Blanks are very dangerous. A 9mm
blank fired point-blank at a person's head can be
lethal. Also, a blank has a very high powder
charge, and the wadding that holds the powder in
can travel quite a ways. An eye can easily be put
out at 50 feet.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
39
Fired Squib
Squib Taped to Shoulder
Metal Plate
Explosive Squib
(Ready-made
squibs are
available at
theatrical supply
outlets; see
phone book or
sci-fi magazines.)
Leads to Firing
Box
Blood bag is taped over squib.
40
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Back of Wall
Electronically Fired Squibs in Place and Ready to Be Fired
Each squib has two wire leads protruding from it. One lead from each squib goes to one
of the nails in the board. The other leads (the free ones) are all bunched together (bundle
A). A single lead, which is attached to all the leads in that bundle, comes out and runs to
one of the battery terminals. A wire lead runs from the opposite battery terminal to a
free nail. By touching the free nail to a nail on the board, a squib is fired.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
41
SQUIB VEST
A squib vest is used when an actor is going to
be riddled with pseudo bullets, such as from a
fully automatic weapon.
The vest is usually made of fiberglass and cast
from a mold of the actor's chest. A 1-inch hole is
drilled about halfway through the front of the
vest. Then a 1/8-inch hole is drilled the rest of the
way, as shown in the illustration. A squib and its
wire leads are inserted into the 1-inch hole, and
the leads are run out the back, down the vest, and
off stage to the firing box. Or the actor may fire
them by a hand-held control box. A blood bag is
inserted into the large hole on top of the squib,
and wax is used to cover the works. The actor
puts his shirt on, and you're set.
Casts may also be made for other sections of
the body, such as the back or legs, but a free
squib is usually used for arms and legs.
If you have trouble finding squibs, you can
make your own by slightly modifying a small
42
firecracker. First remove the fuze, then buy some
Nichrome wire from the hobby store. Shove the
middle of the wire into the firecracker where the
fuze was. Connect the wire leads to the end of the
Nichrome and that's it. You now have an electric
firecracker, a squib.
Your local Radio Shack is a special effects
man's paradise. Every switch, wire, and box
needed to do this and many other types of jobs
are in one store. I highly recommend you get one
of Radio Shack's free catalogs. (No, Radio Shack
did not pay me to endorse its products.)
While we're on the subject of electronics, I
would like to recommend Getting Started in
Electronics by Forrest M. Mims, available at
(where else?) Radio Shack. It is the best book on
the subject I have ever read. It is so good that it is
used to train police bomb technicians in the
Federal Bureau of Investigation bomb school, as
are Mims' other books.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
F/X BALLISTIC SQUIB VEST
Fiberglass Chest
Closeup of Pseudo Bullet
Hole in Vest
Control/Firing Box
(with battery)
Leads
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
43
Vest is fiberglass cast.
Side View of
Vest Only
Blood Bag
Electric
Squib
1/8" Drill
(back)
Wax
Leads
(to firing box)
Closeup of
Bullet Holes
Back View of
Vest Only
Front View of
Vest Only
1/4'Drill
(pseudo
bullet holes)
44
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
F/X ELECTRONIC SQUIB I
Wire Leads
Black Powder Filler
Capsule
F/X ELECTRONIC SQUIB II
Wire Leads
Nichrome Bridge Wire
Nichrome Wire Insert
(fuze removed)
Firecracker
Dip completed capsule
in contact cement and
let dry.
Where to Find:
Empty Capsules—Health Food Stores
Nichrome Wire—Hobby Shop (model rocket ignitors)
Black Powder—Gun Reloading Supply
Wire Leads—Electronic Supply (Radio Shack)
Model Cement—Hobby Shop or Drugstore
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
45
WHIZ BANG I & II
These two little toys are great fun to play with
and easy to make. Kids love them, so I hope you
will use them in your act.
Whiz Bang I is a large, fully inflated balloon
that is partially filled with colored confetti, either
paper or metallic. I prefer metallic. Party suppliers
can provide you with tons of it. If you want to
make your own, get out a hole punch and some
aluminum foil. Colored foil is available around
Christmastime.
Stuff some of this confetti into the balloon,
inflate the balloon fully, and tape a firecracker to
one side of it. The firecracker should have a long
fuze (5 inches or so). Clamp a clothespin over the
balloon mouth to prevent the air from escaping
until you are ready to perform.
46
To use, simply light the fuze and remove the
clothespin. Let go of the balloon and it will fly up
in the air and explode. The confetti will fly
everywhere and create a spectacular sight. I
watched the whole 1992 Democratic Convention
just to see its whiz bang device go off.
Whiz Bang II is basically the same thing except
it's guided to the spot where you want it to
explode, and it uses a long balloon instead of a
round one. Again, partially fill the balloon with
confetti and clamp the mouth closed. Tape a
straw to the top of the balloon and a firecracker
to the bottom. Run a length of clear fishing line
through the straw and attach the ends of the line
to the location where you want the balloon to
explode. That's all there is to it.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
WHIZ BANG I
Do not tie mouth of balloon. Keep the balloon
mouth pinched until you're ready.
Large Round Balloon
Confetti, Coils,
Glitter, etc,
inside Balloon
Firecracker
WHIZ BANG II
Monoline
(anchored at both ends)
Soda Straw
(taped to balloon)
Confetti (inside balloon)
Keep end open for propulsion.
Pinch until ready.
Firecracker (taped to balloon)
WARNTNG: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
47
DEATH CARDS
Death cards. I knew that title would make you
look twice. Well, what else could I call them,
anyway? Their use is strictly for flash on stage or
at a party.
Buy some 1/16-inch sheet steel at the hardware store (which, with some imagination, is
another great magic store). Cut the steel into the
shape of a poker-size playing card. In my opinion,
old-fashioned, bridge-size cards are for unmanly
types. Round the edges of this rectangle with a
file. Then file the corners razor sharp. Cut the
edges around two poker-size playing cards and
glue them to the metal plate—one to the front
and one to the back. Now you have a metal
playing card.
Practice throwing this card at a wooden board
or a piece of Sheetrock. For those unfamiliar with
card-throwing, I shall attempt to explain the
basic method. In this case we will be throwing the
card vertically. Hold one end of the card between
your first and second fingers. Bend the wrist and
elbow back slightly toward your shoulder. Very
quickly, snap your wrist and release the card at
the same time. It will whirl in a circular motion
and stick in the board when it reaches it.
By the way, I don't really feel that way about
bridge-size cards. They are a great way to learn
card magic. We all learned our first sleights with
them, and they are great for people with small
hands, like me.
Wooden or Sheetrock Target
48
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Trim edges from two cards and glue
one to front and one to back.
1/16" Sheet Steel Cut in
Shape of Playing Card
File corners round and
Finished Product
bevel very sharp.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN 49
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
FLAMETHROWER
The next time you have a barbecue, whip out
this baby and show them how it's really done, or
perhaps you should just bring it out at a dull
moment during your act. You'll have no need to
fear any man or beast with this awesome piece of
improvised weaponry.
A flamethrower is very simple to build. All
you need is a can of starting fluid, a spray can
pistol grip, and a flint barbecue ignitor. The
starting fluid and the pistol grip can both be
bought at any automotive store. You will also
need a 1/8- by 4-inch piece of brass tubing. Set up
the device as shown in the illustration.
To use, light the wick with the flint wheel.
Point the nozzle away from anything of value and
squeeze the trigger. I highly recommend that you
wear a thick rubber glove when firing this device.
I was very impressed with the results, but be
careful with this. If it blows up, you will no
doubt lose your hand.
Wick
Spray Can Pistol Grip
(found in automotive store)
Flint Wheel
Flint Barbecue Ignitor
(butane lighter removed)
50
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
IGNITOR
This device is quite handy for igniting
everything from flash pots to flash pans to
anything else that requires a swift, concealed
flame. I am sure you will find a use for it in your
repertoire of fire magic.
The accompanying illustration shows a
completed device. The device is constructed from
an antenna, thus making it collapsible. A flashbulb is dipped in glue and then rolled in powdered match heads or flash powder. Attach the
bulb to the leads as shown or use alligator clips
(not shown) for simple replacement of the bulb.
This device could be placed on a stand and
used to light flammable fumes. Remember,
flammable liquid cannot be ignited by
submerging the device in it. The flashbulb must
be above the liquid. The ignitor could be placed
under your watchband and brought out to ignite
a flash pan or secured farther up your arm with a
dog collar.
The example in the illustration is fired by using a
toggle switch, but a number of methods work just as
well. Your local hobby shop or Radio Shack store
can provide a multitude of switches.
You could also use a clock (alarm or digital)
to fire the device with a time delay. To attach it to
a digital alarm, simply open the back of the
plastic case and remove the piezo from its leads.
Attach the leads from the ignitor to these. Device
completed. To use an alarm clock, place a
mercury switch on the alarm winding key and set
the alarm. Attach the leads from the ignitor to the
mercury switch, and the ignitor is complete. This
setup will fire when the alarm goes off and the
alarm winding key tilts the mercury switch, thus
completing the circuit.
The device could also be fired by remote
control. Attach the leads from the ignitor to a
microswitch. Depress the servomechanism
against the microswitch to fire the device. A
servomechanism, complete with hand-held
control unit, can be found in any remotecontrolled car, boat, or plane. The servo units
can also be bought separately from a good
hobby shop for a lot less than the complete toy
model.
Device Strapped to
Forearm with Dog Collar
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
51
Flashbulb Dipped in Glue
Then Rolled in Powdered
Match Heads
A Portable, Collapsible Ignitor for Use
in Igniting Flash Pots or Flash Paper
Antenna (collapsible)
Leads
Tape
Battery Pack
Toggle Switch
52
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
LIT CANDLE FROM COAT
I could have marketed the following trick and
made a mint, but I thought I would throw it in
this book because it is so neat. This is the least
dangerous of all the fire devices in this book, but
you'll probably use it in every show.
We all know how the original "candle from the
coat" works. Remember the match stuck down beside the wick and then struck on a striker inside
your coat just prior to bringing it out, like striking a
giant match? Well, friends, my new and improved
method makes this old way obsolete. And it is much
safer. I also can boast that, although most tricks
don't, mine works every time!
Through the miracle of space-age materials,
we now have the disposable plastic lighter, and
that, along with a 12-inch piece of plastic PVC
tubing, is all you need to construct this device.
You need to cut a notch in the tube at one end to
allow you to light the lighter. Once the notch is
cut, shove the lighter in the tube and make sure
the flint wheel and butane button rest in the
notch. With this done, you now have what will
pass for a self-lighting candle. Place this candle in
your left inside breast pocket, and you are set to
perform. During your act, reach in your coat, pull
the coat away from your body with your left
hand, light the lighter, and pull out the pseudo
candle. The audience will think you have just
pulled a lit candle from your coat. Quite
impressive.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE TRICK CANDLE
1" Notch Cut in Pipe
to Allow You to
Light the Lighter
Disposable Plastic Lighter
(wedged in pipe)
White PVC Plastic Tubing
Front
Cut-Away View
NOTE: To keep the lighter lit, your
thumb continues to depress the
butane button. Or you can run a wire
from the butane button vertically
down the back of the tube, so after
the initial light, you can grab the base
of the candle along with the wire.
The candle stays lit automatically.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Back
Cut-away View
53
FLASH POTS AND FLASH PANS
Every magician should be familiar with flash
pots and flash pans because they have many uses
in stage magic. The two devices shown in the
illustrations are the most reliable electronic flash
units you can build.
The flash pot contains two flashcubes inset into
the bowl and covered with flash powder. Each cube
is connected to a separate power system (only one
is shown in the flash pot illustration), so you have a
back-up firing system in case one fails. The device
is fired with a toggle switch. Always use a
flammable powder, not liquid, in the pot. Flash
powder is best. If you use gun powder, use black
powder, not smokeless powder.
Nothing will get your spectators' attention
faster than a fire trick, and a flash pan is just the
54
device to accomplish this. Again, this device uses
two independent firing systems in case one fails.
Dip each of the flash cubes in glue and then roll
in match heads. Use a toggle switch to fire each
device and a flammable liquid, such as lighter
fluid. Saturate the bottom of the pan just prior to
its use. Glue a piece of heavy cardboard to half of
the inside of the pan to soak up the lighter fluid.
The flash pan itself is usually made of brass.
The flash pan can be fired using methods
other than electronic ignition. You could also use
a sparkless chemical mixture. There are many
chemical mixtures that result in spontaneous
combustion when two chemicals are brought
together, but hypergolic mixtures are not reliable,
so I strongly discourage their use in magic.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
TOP VIEW
Battery
TOP VIEW
Lighter Fluid
Flash Cubes Inset
in Flash Powder
in Metal Pot
Flash Cubes
(with match
heads glued on)
Toggle Switches
and Batteries
FRONT VIEW
FRONT VIEW
Both of these devices use two independent systems; in case one fails, you have a backup.
f. THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
*Y TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
55
ESCAPE TOOLS
The following escape tools are extensions for
keys to reach those hard-to-get-at locks and to
cut yourself free from ropes.
The first tool is made from a gun-cleaning rod
intended for large-caliber guns. The bladeholding chuck of the rod is modified to hold a
handcuff key or a small knife blade. The tip
comes from an X-ACTO knife. It screws right
onto the end of the rod. The rods may be hidden
on your body or in a box or bag from which you
are attempting to escape. This tool will allow you
to open some difficult locks.
The second escape tool is made from a car or
radio antenna. Remove the round head on the
antenna and split that end in two. Insert a
handcuff key in this split and epoxy it in place.
You also need to flatten the antenna slightly with
pliers or in a vise. This will prevent the tubes
from rotating inside each other, and the handcuff
key will now stay in place. On some antennas,
the last rod is only a piece of wire and will not
flatten. In this case, you will need to remove this
wire and split the second tube (or rod). This
escape tool is used much the same way as the
first, as an extension to reach a lock. The antenna
could also be bent to reach the lock.
X-ACTO Knife Screw-On Tip
Gun-Cleaning Rods
Shackle and
Handcuff Key
X-ACTO Blade
for Rope Release
Defeating the Belly Chain
56
Shackle
Release
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Crush antenna with pliers, thus
preventing the metal tubes from
rotating inside each other.
Affix a handcuff key to the end of antenna.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
157
ESCAPE TRICKS
BOXES AND SUCH
If you are going to be nailed inside a box,
barrel, coffin, etc., that for some reason cannot
be gaffed, consider the following idea. Secure on
your person or gain access to a small-car jack,
e.g., the type used on compact cars. I have one
small enough to carry strapped to my leg. The
jack comes into play once you are nailed in the
box. Simply set up the jack and pry the box
apart. This may make a little noise so take that
into consideration. Loud music can take care of
that problem.
HANDCUFFS AND CHAINS
Various methods exist for escaping from handcuffs and chains. One is to hide a small pair of
A small automobile jack aids the escape artist in freeing himself from the crate. This works equally well on
barrels, coffins, etc. A car jack can be used to open any door by simply spreading the door jam.
58
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
X-Ray View of Ratchet
(aka, locking dog)
This easily constructed device allows you to open
every type of police and prison handcuff and leg
iron used in the United States.
Device/Shim (opens the cuffs
by separating the ratchet)
NOTE: Place a
small solder plug
over the "push
lock" hole on the
side of the cuff to
prevent the cuffs
from being
double locked.
Shim is made from a piece of tape
measure metal cut to exact size. It
could also be made from a piece of
metal from a wind-up clock spring.
'ARNTNG: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
59
bolt cutters on your body or within your reach.
This may sound difficult, but it really isn't. Again,
you may wish to strap them to your leg. They
may also be hidden in a false panel in your box
or behind a double curtain. Another way of using
a small pair of bolt cutters would be to have an
assistant hide them in his coat. Have him hold
one bar under his arm and the other bar in his
hand (the pocket should be cut out). He will
stand with both hands in his pockets. Your job is
to get close enough to him to let him cut the
chain between the cuffs. Once it is cut, you still
keep both hands together pretending that nothing
has happened.
Another method would be to switch cuffs.
You have to use an assistant for this.
To obtain keys to any police handcuffs, go to
a police uniform and supply shop. These shops
can be found in the yellow pages of any large city.
Tell the clerk that you are a security guard and
The Secret: Nail Clippers
A small pair of nail clippers is easily
concealed inside your watchband or tucked
inside your belt. Nail clippers cut through
these ties like a hot knife through butter!
60
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
have lost your handcuff keys or that you just
want to buy a key. But look the part of a guard.
Short hair and a shave are musts. I have never
had any trouble using this method. Another good
place to buy handcuff keys is a pawnshop. They
usually have all sorts of handcuffs and assorted
keys. Many jewelry keys will fit handscuffs as is
or can be easily modified to fit. Good places to
hide the keys prior to an escape are in the seams
of your clothing or in your hair.
Handcuffs can also be opened with a shim. A
piece of metal from a tape measure is perfect.
With tin snips, cut the metal about 1/8-inch wide
and about 5 inches long. This piece of thin,
flexible metal is pushed down to pry the teeth
apart and slide the cuff open.
An interesting method that uses a common
writing pen, the type with a metal refill carridge,
comes to us from a prisoner. With tin snips or
nail clippers, you cut the nonwriting end to form
a small handcuff ke. Keep this hidden in the pen
body and use the pen as normal.
PLASTIC TIES
Cops call them "flexicuffs." They were developed to harness wires together, but somehow they
made their way into the law enforcement community. When used correctly, they are difficult to
escape from. The only obvious way to get them off
is to cut them, but they can be opened by pushing a
safety pin into the opening of the closed tie, prying
open the tongue, and sliding the other end out.
Another method for releasing yourself is to
have them placed on backwards. They still make
that little clicking noise, although not as loud. In
this situation, they will slide back open with no
effort. This one really works well.
Yet another method is to hide a pair of nail
clippers on your person. They will cut right
through the plastic ties in an instant, or if the
situation permits, a cigarette will readily melt a
flexicuff in two.
STRAITJACKETS
The following is a wonderful method for
releasing yourself from any straitjacket in an
instant. Palm a single-edged razor blade as you
are being tied into the jacket. Once you are alone,
cut the area along the seam of the jacket. Your
hand will automatically be right there. Cut the
stitched area under the arm and on around the
shoulder. This done, you can free your arm and
simply unstrap the jacket. If the trick requires
that your jacket be inspected later, you could sew
up the shoulder with needle and thread or simply
switch jackets.
The cutting the seam method works equally
well on canvas mail bags, which are sometimes
used to secure people. Simply cut out the bottom
seam once you are left alone to work your magic.
So you want to become another Houdini?
There is only one place in the entire world that
caters to escape artists, Wheeler-Tanner Escapes,
and its stuff is unbelievable. I cannot recommend
this company highly enough. It has dozens of
different kinds of handcuffs, leg irons, straight
jackets, etc. It has been around since 1937 and is
very reputable. Send $2 for a catalog to:
Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
61
THERMITE ESCAPE METHODS
As with most of the contents of this book, the
following is material that has never been put into
print. Thermite is something few people even
know about, much less consider its applications.
Thermite will burn through the hardest metals on
earth with no problem at all. It burns at a rate of
8,000 to 10,000° E The cleverest of criminals
have used it to burn holes in bank vaults. It's
much faster than a welder's torch.
Thermite is easy to make at home. You will
need to obtain two items from a chemistry shop:
iron oxide and aluminum powder. Mix three
parts iron oxide with two parts aluminum
powder. Pack it in the desired container. I use 2inch diameter PVC with end caps. A piece about
5 inches long is about right. I sometimes use a
baby food jar for storing the stuff for an extended
period of time.
You can't ignite thermite with a match or
lighter. A welder's torch or a small propane torch
must be used. Needless to say, the stuff is pretty
safe to store.
I first witnessed its use with a friend who
smuggled a thermite device off a military base in
California. The marines have these devices readymade for their own use. We went out to the
desert and found an abandoned car that was
pretty much intact. My friend set the device on
the hood of the car and lit it. An intense flame
could be seen for a couple of seconds, and the
device dropped through the hole it made in the
hood. In about a minute it ate through the 360cubic-inch engine and dropped on the ground.
The damn thing ate a hole in the ground and
vanished. God only knows how far it went into
the earth. This is how powerful thermite can be.
That device was about the size of two cans of
beans. We won't need that much thermite for our
purposes here. I use the above example to
reinforce your trust in what we are discussing—
62
and to alert you to thermite's power.
The accompanying illustration shows a
thermite kit made from easily available materials.
The example shows only one use of thermite for
escape purposes. The escape artist with an
imagination can come up with many more uses
I'm sure.
OK, now we are going to discuss a real "top
secret." I'm going to give away to you, my valued
audience, some information the feds want to keep
as quiet as possible. How you use this
information is up to you.
Someone has been going around the United
States for the last 10 or so years lighting fires, but
not just any fires. The "Unsolved Mysteries" TV
show (the author's favorite show) called this guy
the "King of Arsonists"! He is using an accelerant
that leaves no trace after it burns. A normal fire
burns at around 1,000° F. The fires this guy is
setting burn at no less than 8,000°. The arson
investigators scratched their heads for years
trying to figure what the hell this guy was using.
Then a fireman got killed during one of these
blazes, and they intensified their investigation. It's
like a cop being killed: it becomes personal. They
will track your hide to the ends of the earth until
you're caught. The investigators knew it had to
be a commonly available chemical, and it was.
They experimented for months with various
combinations before finally hitting it. The guy
was using rocket fuel. Yep, that's the big secret:
rocket fuel. The stuff burns so hot it vaporizes
bricks. "Unsolved Mysteries" showed some of
this guy's handiwork, and it was the scariest sight
I've ever seen. I have written two books on
homemade bombs and visited many burned-out
and blown-up scenes, but I had never seen
anything like this.
Rocket fuel is easy to procure. It is used as
race car fuel and has many other commercial
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
uses. Below is a list of various rocket fuels that
can be bought easily with no identification
required:
• Sodium nitrate
• Tetranitromethane
• Ethyl nitrate
•
•
•
•
•
A visit to your local library or, even better, a
college engineering library can provide you with
information about rocket fuel.
Nitromethane
2-Nitropropane
Hydrazine perchlorate
Methyl nitrate
1-Nitropropane
Homemade Thermite Kit Contains the Following:
1 Butane Lighter
1 Miniature Propane Torch (available from Radio Shack or
hobby shop)
1 Bottle of Thermite (available at chemistry or hobby shops)
1. Thermite will burn
through anything on
earth—anything!
2. It does the same thing to
concrete and bricks.
3. Thermite is very easily
manufactured at home.
How to Make Thermite:
3 Parts Iron Oxide
2 Parts Aluminum Powder
Mix
NOTE: See back of Popular Science Magazine for a list of mail-order chemistry suppliers.
How Thermite Could Aid an Escape
A. Thermite poured in a circle and lit with torch.
B. Kick out section of floor.
C. The escape!
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
63
ROPE WORK
I have never seen a reference to this trick in
any escape material. I found this magical secret
out by accident. The secret is liquid sodium
hypochlorite-based bleach.
Soak a length of cotton rope in pure bleach
and let it dry completely. That's all there is to it.
Let someone tie you up with this rope. Instant-
NOTE: If you are sensitive to bleach or
are concerned about getting sodium
hypochlorite powder in your eyes,
cotton rope can also be weakened at a
given point with weak sulfuric acid. Let
it work for a few minutes, then wash it
out and soak that portion in a bakingsoda solution. It will slightly discolor
white cotton, but this can be hidden by
rubbing chalk powder on the
discolored section. Hemp or sisal rope
can be weakened with a weak solution
of ferric chloride in the same manner.
ly, you can release yourself by twisting the rope.
It will snap and break with hardly any effort.
You may wish to soak only part of the rope if
you are using a long piece. Just be sure you know
which is the weak portion of the rope.
This method may be used on any sort of
cotton or linen cloth ties.
Soaking a rope in bleach totally
destroys the strength of the rope. It
will easily snap at any desired point.
Soak all or part of the
rope to be used in the
escape in pure bleach
and let dry.
Bound Wrists—Instant Release
64
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
MAGICIAN'S ESCAPE-AND-EVASION KIT
It seems ironic that as I write this, the Sci-Fi
Channel is showing reruns of the 1973-74 television series "The Magician" with Bill Bixby. I
was a magician 10 years before that show aired,
but it provided more inspiration—to me as well
as to many of today's professional magicians—
than any other television show to date.
In the show, the magician, Anthony Blake
(Bixby), was constantly overcoming the criminal
element with his clever use of magic. I don't think
he ever used a gun, unless he took it away from
the bad guy. He always handcuffed his adversary
to something or to another bad guy. It was
absolutely hilarious to watch his use of
misdirection. I used to wonder if it could really
work that simply. And to my surprise, it did.
People were caught so off guard when I
applied the handcuffs that they did not know
what to think. Now I'm not talking about
handcuffing my grandmother; I'm talking bar
fights. At one time, I was very proficient at
Chinese kenpo karate. I still remember the
techniques, but I'm only a shadow of what I was
15 years ago. What I did was incorporate the
handcuffs into a karate technique. For example, if
the guy is taking a swing at you, you simply have
the handcuffs in your blocking hand. Your
opponent throws his wrist right into the awaiting
cuff, practically handcuffing himself.
The accompanying illustrations show my
recommended lines of defense for an experienced
magician. I used to carry a gun around with me.
While it's true that a gun is usually the best personal weapon, a gun says one thing to a cop if you
get into a confrontation. It says—and shows—
intent, premeditated intent. While you may very
well be in the right, you are the person who is going to have to prove why there is a dead guy with a
head full of bullets slumped over the barstool.
Every item depicted in the next illustration
shows a strictly defensive intent on your part.
The most important item is the personal defense
spray, often erroneously referred to as Mace.
Several years ago, a new form of this spray was
introduced on the commercial market. It contains
a derivative of the hottest pepper there is. I have
personally stopped two guard dogs coming at me
full speed dead in their tracks (never mind what I
was doing in the museum at 2:00 A.M.). The stuff
will stop the most aggressive human on earth.
There are several different brand names for this
oil of capsicum spray, and it is now widely
available in gunshops and sporting goods stores.
The handcuffs can be used in the obvious
ways or more creatively if you have an imagination. The long chain handcuffs are my favorite.
They work best when you are trying to handcuff
the bad guy to something. First, he should never
even know you have the handcuffs in your
possession until it's too late and he has at least
one hand restrained. It's best if you can already
have one cuff secured around something like a
post, car handle, tree branch, etc.. This way all
you have to do is apply one cuff to his hand and
retreat. He is stuck and mad as hell.
The choke chain and padlock are used to
secure his legs. The smoke bombs and other
various incendiary devices are used in evasion. A
smoke bomb in a closed room will create havoc.
They also work great for misdirection, such as in
trash cans, under cars, etc. We will examine a
modified smoke bomb and chain next.
E & E TACTIC (OFFENSIVE)
These devices should only be used in the worst of
situations. The choke chain has been modified by
placing fishhooks at the points shown. The smoke
bomb also has fishhooks glued or taped on it.
The chain is applied quickly to the legs of the
EARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
65
subject. As soon as the chain whips around his
legs, the fishhook on the end digs into his left
pant leg. From here you simply tighten the chain
as best as you can and let the fishhook that is
close to your hands also dig into his left pant leg.
That prevents him from running after you. By the
time he removes the fishhooks, you're long gone
(unless, of course, he wants to take off his pants
and run after you, which is doubtful).
You can leave it at that or go a step further.
The bad guy thinks he has problems now, but he
ain't seen nothing yet. You remove a small PVC
pipe from your coat and remove one end cap.
From there you light the fuze of a smoke bomb
inserted in the pipe. This is done with an
ingeniously rigged butane lighter taped to the side
of the pipe. You release the lit smoke bomb
directly onto his clothes, and it sticks to him. A
lot of things run through the bad guy's mind at
this point. The illustration shows how to
construct the chain and smoke bomb. These items
are very dangerous, so use common sense.
E & E TACTIC (DEFENSIVE)
Here the magician is prepared for a confrontation with his assailant. You, the magician,
clip the personal defense spray to the inside of
your forearm. (Small cans usually come with a
pocket clip attached.)
You spray the subject in the eyes with the
spray. Then you release the pouch on your belt
containing the choke chain and padlock. Kneel
down and whip the chain around his legs tightly
and padlock it shut. The subject is busy trying to
66
get the chemical out of his eyes, so he won't give
you too much trouble when you chain his legs
together. If he does, you're in a great position to
rack him.
After chaining his legs, you have the option of
leaving him as is or continuing your beating. It is
my personal opinion that if you get in a fight it
should be to the death, so let us continue.
Stand up directly in front of him and deliver a
hard side kick to his stomach while gouging out
his eyes. "Think of it as crushing grapes with
your fingers," my martial arts instructor used to
say. From here, the now-defeated aggressor will
be lying on his side, front, or back. If he is on his
back, jump up and land on his throat with both
heels. No air, no life—it's that simple. I'll tell you
an extremely well-kept secret in black belt karate:
if you are going to kill someone with your hands
or feet, the attack must center around the throat
and neck. Think of the windpipe as a garden
hose. If it kinks, no water comes out. If the windpipe is crushed, no air passes through, and the
subject expires in short order. If the guy has
landed on his stomach or side you will need to
jump up and land on his skull, thus crushing it,
or you can land on his neck and sever his spine
from his head. Either way, you've just killed him.
I know I speak of death in a matter-of-fact
manner, but we live in a violent society and there
is no way around it. If someday you or someone
you love is in a prison camp in some Godforsaken country with nothing but knowledge
and a will to survive, taking a human life to
escape death is reason enough for me to publish
this kind of material.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
UTILIZING CLEVERNESS RATHER THAN FIREPOWER TO OVERCOME AN ADVERSARY
Handcuffs (with several keys)
Handcuffs with Long Chain
Long Choke Chain with Padlock
Two Small Cans of Personal
Defense Spray (pepper gas
preferred)
Various Smoke Bombs and Mini Incendiary Devices
(commercial or improvised)
Of course, everything is hidden under your coat or jacket.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
67
Fishhook
1. Approach subject from behind
with chain in hand.
2. Quickly throw chain around legs.
1. How the specially
designed chain
traps the legs.
2. No padlock
required.
3. The more the
person tries to
free himself, the
deeper the fish
hooks dig into
his pants.
This device
could be
used around
the arms if
the person
is wearing a
long-sleeve
shirt or coat.
BACK OF LEGS
CONSTRUCTION
1. Light smoke bomb and release from container.
2. Smoke bomb will attach itself to subject's clothing.
Tape or glue fish hooks to a smoke bomb.
Open end cap to toss out lit device.
Tape lighter to
pipe for instant
lighting.
PVC pipe with end caps is the transport
case for this device.
68
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Spray Clipped
to Watchband
B.
Tie his legs together with the choke
chain and padlock. Apply handcuffs to
his wrists (optional).
C.
Kick aggressor as hard as you can and gouge out his
eyes.
NOTE: Attacks to the eyes will end any fight at once.
D.
Optional: Coupe de grace
head stomp. This very violent
method is a standard black
belt killing technique. Jump,
stiffen legs and body prior to
landing on his head.
WARNING: This is extremely
dangerous. Your opponent's
head will be crushed by your
body weight.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
69
LOCK PICK GUNS (IMPROVISED)
The emphasis of all of my books is to do it
yourself. Why pay someone else to build a device
when you can build it easily on your own? I am
really going out on a limb by showing you how
to construct this pick gun. The locksmith trade
did everything within its power to try to get me
not to publish these plans. But this is America,
and I shall do as I damn well please.
These two pick guns were developed by the
Central Intelligence Agency to teach its field
operatives how to pick a lock with the minimum
of materials available to them. Both of these guns
work extremely well.
As of this writing, a commercial lock pick gun
costs about $100 to $150. The two improvised
pick guns here cost about $.50 to build and do
exactly the same thing as the commercial guns
do. I have tested both of the improvised guns
against the commercial guns and have achieved
the same success with all of them: I have always
gotten the locks open.
Most escape artists are familiar with the
methods of picking locks, so I will be brief about
explaining how to use these two devices.
To use the first gun, insert the end of the wire
into the lock along with the tension wrench.
70
Lightly turn the tension wrench and, at the same
time, flick the end of the wire pick gun upward
against the pins repeatedly. This will throw all the
pins up at once. It will take several flicks to cause
all the pins to pass the shear points and open the
lock. You must learn the proper pressure to use
on the tension wrench. This comes with practice
and depends on how tight the pins fit in that
particular tumbler.
The second pick gun utilizing a clothespin
works basically the same way. You flick the
clothespin repeatedly while keeping the tension
wrench lightly torqued.
With practice you will be amazed at how well
these improvised pick guns work. With this knowledge of how to construct these lock picks, you will
seldom run across a lock you cannot pick. This
gives a real sense of power and self-confidence.
Just remember: practice, practice, practice. Don't
get discouraged. You will learn the art.
CAUTION: Lock pick guns are illegal to
possess in most states, so check your local and
state laws before constructing them. You usually
must have a locksmith's license to have these
tools on your person.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
HOMEMADE
PICK GUN I
Wire Coat
Hanger Bent
into Shape
Shown Here
Hammer the end flat and
file into shape.
Improvised Tension Wrench (made
from 1/8" spring steel strip)
HOMEMADE PICK GUN II
Clothespin
tested both of these devices to determine their ability to pick standard locks. Both worked as well as commercial pick guns.
IMPORTANT: Possession of the above devices is illegal in most states. Check laws before constructing.
WARNING:
THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
71
SPARKS
In this trick, the magician produces a huge
shower of sparks in his fist, which has to be seen
to be believed. But it is dangerous, so you should
understand exactly what you are getting into if
you decide to include this in your act. You should
not use this effect indoors without taking a lot of
precautions. It's much too easy to ignite stage
curtains or anything else in the area. You must
wear an entire outfit made of flame-retardant
cloth and wear heavy dark glasses; welder's
goggles are best.
The illustration shows how to construct and
perform the spark effect. You can walk around the
stage doing other tricks while wearing the hidden
wiring under your clothes. Put the glove on and
pick up the the ball of steel wool. Walk over to the
metal plates on the stage and stand on them, thus
completing the circuit. At once, sparks will be
produced. Hold your well-protected arm as far
away from your body as you can and crumple the
ball. An instant shower of bright sparks appears.
CAUTION: You need to perform this effect
deep back in the stage to prevent a spark from
hitting someone in the audience. If you do this
outdoors, beware of wind, which will carry the
sparks. Use this with caution, folks; it's
extremely dangerous.
Do not
accidentally
hook your
shocker glove
to this device.
Produce a handful of sparks during your act
72
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
1. Magician stands on metal plates on floor, thus
completing the circuit with the car battery.
2. By crumpling the ball of steel wool that will
contact the metal plates on the glove, a huge
amount of sparks is produced.
Metal Plates (affixed to thumb and
little finger of outside of heavy rubber
glove)
Glove
Male/Female Hookup
Ball of Steel Wool (not
affixed to glove)
Leads go up the sleeve
through clothing to
metal plates on shoes.
Table will be
covered with a
long tablecloth to
hide battery.
Metal Plates (affixed
to floor)
Metal Plates (affixed to
the bottom of
magician's shoes)
Cables run from battery to floor
plates. Cables are taped to floor.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
73
SHOOTING WAND, CANE, OR STAFF
There have been many shooting wands on the
magic market over the last 40 years, and I have
bought them all. Most are spring-loaded and fire
basically like a gun. I won't describe exactly how
most work because it's pretty obvious. Of course,
there are electrically fired canes, and they can be
made easily in a home workshop. I have used my
electric shotgun shell in several devices in this
book. Simply transfer that knowledge to a hollow
steel cane and you're set.
The wand in the illustration is easy to build
and works exceptionally well. I've used it in my
professional nightclub act for years. I built two
of them at the same time so I would have a
backup just in case one broke. Ten years later
I'm still using the same cane, and the other one
still sits in one of my trunks of tricks. I think
that speaks for itself.
The wand is made of standard copper pipe
and fittings. Of course, you paint it to look like a
wand. Because paint chips, I use metallic auto
detail tape. It is used to decorate all sorts of
magician's props that are for sale in magic shops.
It adds huge dollars to the asking price for the
trick, despite the tape's inexpensive price.
Automotive stores carry all sorts of this stuff. It
comes in rolls that are about 2 inches wide and
around 10 feet long. This stuff really adds sparkle
to a prop. Magic dealers don't really like my
telling you where to get this stuff, but what the
74
hell. You can build professional props at home
with this tape.
The pipe fittings fit together as shown. The
wand is gravity fired using a sliding metal bar
inside the wand. Soldered to the outside of the
wand in the center of the long pipe is a brass ring
(cut a brass ring out of a piece of brass tubing
with a hacksaw or a pipe cutter). This ring is
optional and does not affect the firing of the
wand. To fire, insert your middle finger in the
ring and fire. The ring allows you to spin the
wand to the opposite end and fire the other shell.
You could also spin the wand just for flash. When
the stage lights hit the spinning wand, it's really
impressive. The metallic tape makes the effect.
Follow the simple illustrations to build the
device. A 20-gauge shotgun shell should fit into a
1/2-inch pipe, but pipe dimensions are fairly loose
so you may have picked up a piece of pipe that
will not chamber the 20-gauge round. Therefore,
simply run the pipe down to an auto shop and
have your patient mechanic use a brake cylinder
hone to relieve the chamber area of the pipe just
enough so the round will go in. It will take just a
minute. You will also need to use a pipethreading bottoming tap on the couplers. If you
choose to use a 12-gauge shell, it will fit snugly
into a 3/4-inch pipe.
If you're a pro, build this and try it in your
act. It's great.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
METHOD II
METHOD I
Unit is gravity
fired.
Double-Shot
Wand
Point wand forward sharply,
throwing weight in wand
forward and firing the shell.
Bring wand forward and
then back sharply. This
throws the weight in the
wand forward, striking the
front shell and firing it.
Cut-Away View of Assembled Unit
Soldered on Ring for Spinning Wand
To Use: Pull out one cotter pin and slide weight sharply against that shell as shown above. The unit fires. Do the same with other end if desired.
20-Ga. Shotgun Shell
EXPLODED
ILLUSTRATION
1/2" Seamless Copper Tubing
(threaded as shown, with a total
of 3 sections)
Tips unscrew for shell loading.
Free Sliding Weight
solid steel slug)
20-Ga. Shotgun Shell
bo Cotter Pin Inserts
(1 on each
end act as safety)
Modified 20-Ga. Shell
BB Glued
to Primer
Paint entire unit black with white tips,
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Lead Shot
Replaced
with
Confetti,
Streamers,
or Flash
Paper
75
SELF-LIGHTING FUZE PRINCIPLE
I learned this trick from a CIA book on how
to construct homemade bombs. It is quite
amazing and can be used on any pyrotechnic or
explosive device with a standard fuze.
The only material you need is a book of paper
matches. Start by removing the staple which
holds the two rows of matches to the paper cover.
You will need only one of the rows of matches
and the cover. Follow the instructions in the
illustration to continue to make the device.
The finished product is a smoke bomb that
can be attached, ready to light by itself, under
your coat or inside your jacket. Experiment with
this device to see how it best works for you.
This device can be used to secretly light any fuze.
Magician pulls a lit smoke
bomb out of his coat.
76
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
1 Book of Matches
Tape
Smoke Bomb
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 4
Take a book of paper matches and remove the staple that holds the two rows of
matches to the cover.
Figure 1 — Place one of the rows of matches against the fuze of a smoke bomb.
Figure 2—Wrap the row of matches around the fuze and tape it closed.
Figure 3—Now take the empty matchbook cover and place it against the matches
and fuze. The striker on the matchbook must be below the match heads, exactly
as in the illustration.
FIGURES
Finished
Product
Figure 4—Wrap the match cover around the matches fairly tightly and tape it
closed.
Figure 5—Bend the top of this assembly over and tape it. Make sure the matches
are not bent or crimped. They must remain perfectly straight inside the wrapped
over. Pin this device under your coat. Pull the smoke bomb free from cover (hold
base of matches when pulling), and it comes out lit.
fARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
77
MISCELLANEOUS WEAPONS AND EFFECTS
BALLISTIC SMOKES
Ballistic smoke is dangerous but could save
your hide someday. It's basically a cigarette that
fires a small-caliber bullet. You could either use a
.22 or a .32. If you choose a .22, you will need to
disassemble it and follow the instructions shown.
Use a vice, goggles, and gloves. If you use a .32,
you will need to remove the primer with an ice
pick or nail. Thus you have an instant hole to
insert the fuze and no drilling is required. Remember which way the bullet is pointing in the
cigarette by marking one end with a pencil. Be
careful.
ATOMIC SQUIRT GUN
This is easily constructed. Tape a butane lighter
to the bottom of a squirt gun's barrel. Fill the
squirt gun with lighter fluid or other highly flammable chemical. Use a rubber band to depress the
butane button and keep it in place. I have shot
flames up to 20 feet with a small squirt gun.
Anything that squirts water can be turned into
a flamethrower using this method. Toy stores
now have these megasquirt guns that fire a burst
of water so hard you can put out someone's eye,
and although I haven't tried, I'm sure one of these
would make one hell of a flamethrower. Be the
first guy on the block to turn these items into
flame weapons and toys.
FLASH CANE
I have seen these on the market selling for well
over twenty dollars in magic shops. They are
78
simple to make and cost only a few cents. You
need to get out that old broken tape measure and
cut off two equal 3-foot lengths. Follow the illustrations to construct this neat magician's toy. You
hold the finished product coiled up in your hand,
hidden from view. Then FLASH, a wand or cane
appears in the blink of an eye as the flexible metal
attempts to right itself into a rigid position.
FLASH CANE ACCESSORY
When constructing the flash cane, you have
the option of incorporating this built-in flash
device into it. You need about 5 feet of insulated
wire, a toggle switch, a flash cube, and a 2-inch
square of flash paper. You will need to cut a hole
in one side of the metal to insert the toggle
switch. This device, or any similar device using a
flash cube, could be used as a weapon at night. If
you close your eyes and fire a flash cube in front
of someone's eyes, you can blind him temporarily
while you make your escape.
INDUSTRIAL SQUIRT FLOWER
This is a heavy-duty squirt flower that I
recommend you construct if you do the fire
flower trick described on page 1. It is easily made
from common materials.
CAUTION: Always wear goggles to protect
your eyes and a heavy rubber glove on the firing
hand. As with all fire tricks, keep no less than
two fully charged fire extinguishers close by, and
a swimming pool is even better.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
1. Pull lead slug out of a .22
shell.
2. Remove gunpowder.
Drill hole in shell. It may or
may not fire its primer. Do
it several times until one
does not fire.
3. Put bullet back together.
4. Use .22 rimfire.
BALLISTIC SMOKES
Squirt Gun
Filled with
Lighter Fluid
ATOMIC SQUIRT GUN
Mini Flamethrower
Rubber Band (runs
length of lighter)
Nonfilter Cigarette
1. Snap rubber band
engthwise onto
lighter so it holds
down gas release.
2. Hold lighter so it
points upward and
light.
Insert firecracker fuze in hole in bullet.
Take tobacco out. Put gimmicked bullet about halfway. Put tobacco back in.
Light end of cigarette toward fuze. Lay cigarette down with bullet pointing at target.
\
Butane Lighter
Taped to Gun
(butane release
button held
down with
rubber band)
FLASH CANE ACCESSORY
FLASH CANE
Built-in Flash for Use with Above Cane
X-Ray View of Bulb in Flash Paper
Fold a piece of
flash paper
around a flash
bulb.
Flashbulb and Flash Paper Insert
(prepared as above)
Everything is
inside the cane.
INDUSTRIAL SQUIRT FLOWER
Plastic
Flower
(craft shop)
Baby's Ear Syringe
1. Attach safety pin behind flower. 2. Pin to lapel. 3. Secure 1/4" copper tubing, 1/2" in length to syrineg with glue. 4. Punch hole in
center of flower and insert copper tube. 5. Attach other end of surgical tube to this. 6. Can apply a reducer coupling to the end of
flower, reducing it from 1/4 to 1/8". 7. To fire, see fire flower on page 1.
PSEUDOACID FLOWER—squirt oil onto hot surface or water into bucket of dry ice for an instant acid effect.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
79
GAS JET
This is a method of shooting flames from your
mouth through a metal tube or a smoking pipe.
You saturate a cotton ball with unleaded gasoline
or kerosene and place it inside your mouth so it
rests on the bottom of your mouth. You then
insert the metal tube or pipe and blow vapors
through it. This is done while holding a lit match
in front of the opening of the tube or pipe. This
method is capable of producing 10-foot flames. I
suppose a bag of wind could shoot them
considerably farther.
Blow 10-foot flames with
these simple devices.
Gasoline Vapors
Blown through a
Metal Tube
1. Hold a ball of cotton
saturated with unleaded
gasoline under your
tongue.
2. Blow vapors only through
tube or pipe.
80
Gasoline Vapors Blown
through a Regular Pipe
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
SECRET HIDING PLACES
You've heard the expression "it's all done with
mirrors." Well, here I will show you how it's
really done. Mirror work is making a comeback
in magic after about a century. Some of the major
stage illusions use a mirror or mirrors as their
modus operandi. There are dozens of ways to use
mirrors, but 99.9 percent of the illusions use the
basic principle I am about to demonstrate here.
I hope you understand what's happening in
the illustration showing the tables. It's hard to
explain how mirrors work when applied to the
art of magic and stage illusions.
Look at the "Table in Room" illustration. The
table has mirrors placed at right angles underneath it. The table must be exactly in the center of
the room. It looks like you can see directly under
it, but what you are really seeing is the reflections
of the side walls. It's really quite simple. I was 5
years old when my grandfather (a fellow magician
and my mentor) showed it to me. I completely
understood it even at that young age.
Now let's look at the "Table in Corner"
illustration. The table fits tightly into a corner of a
room or stage. Again it only looks like you can see
under the table. The mirrors are attached to the
table exactly as in the previous illustration, but
they reflect the walls differently. Each of the
mirrors is reflecting the section of wall directly in
front of it. The table must be observed from this
angle or close to this angle for the illusion to work.
Both of the above types of mirror work have
been used in circus sideshows for centuries.
Sometimes you will see a living human head
resting on a plate on the table. In reality, there's a
hole in the table and plate, and a guy is simply
poking his head up through the table. The effect
is quite uncanny.
Astute observers have no doubt observed that
the back leg of the table is not there and wondered what to do about this. If you wish, you can
place a leg in the proper position to be reflected,
or you can simply use a three-legged table. Just
make sure the legs are positioned so the mirrors
are at right angles to each other. You will probably have to remove the legs of the table and
redrill the holes to position the legs correctly. The
last option—to just not worry about it—is
probably best. Most magicians have told me that
no one ever seems to notice the missing leg.
The one drawback to this illusion is that
people must not be allowed to walk up to the
table or they will see their own legs in the
reflection. Obstacles are the answer.
rARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
81
IT'S ALL DONE WITH MIRRORS
Table in Room,
Audience View
Table in Corner,
Audience View
It looks like you can see directly under these two tables. Actually, someone could be sitting under either table and be completely
invisible. Both of these illusions use clever mirror principles.
HOW IT WORKS
Mirrors at 45" Angles
HOW IT WORKS
Mirrors at 45° Angles
Table must be equal distance from all
three walls for mirror principle to work.
82
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
BURGLAR DETERRENT I
I had to include these next two items just
because they're so cool. That, and the fact that no
one had ever bothered to document their use in
the special effects field. OK, OK, so I saw this on
"Wild Wild West." Good old Arty Gordon was
always cooking up something for James West and
his battle against evil midgets and such.
The illustration shows how this method
works. I have just updated it to act as a burglar
deterrent. A small electric train is set on a table
directly in front of a window in your house. A
cardboard cutout of your upper body is attached
to the far side of the toy train. A bright light is set
up to cast the silhouette of the cutout onto the
closed curtain. The train and the light are set up
on a standard light timer found in any hardware
store. The train is set on its slowest speed to
avoid the absurd illusion of you running around
the room.
The silhouette of a man is seen moving behind a closed curtain at night.
Mr. Prowler
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
83
SETTING UP THE ILLUSION
Attach a cardboard cutout of a man
on the side of an electric toy train.
TOP VIEW
Light Timer
Turns on Light and
Model Railroad
System
100-Watt Light
Electric Model
Train Set
Cardboard
Cutout
Moving Train with Cardboard
Silhouette Mounted on Side
Set train on slowest speed.
84
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
BURGLAR DETERRENT II
If you want to see this next method in use,
rent the movie F/X 2. I know it looks silly as hell
on paper, but it really works. Because of that
movie, I know of two special effects technicians
who have been contacted by an unnamed federal
agency to help it fake murders. It's amazing how
closely the art of deception in espionage parallels
that of magic. Being a student of both arts, I can't
overstress the fact that anyone who wants to get
into the spying business should become at least
an amateur magician. Study professional magic.
I know I get off on a tangent sometimes, but I
really wish the book you are reading had been
available 30 years ago. I'm just trying to impart
some of my well-earned wisdom to save you a
few years here and there.
Anyway, back on track. The illusion created
here is that of a man and woman embracing in
front of a window. Natural enough so far. As
you can see our cartoon assassin is getting
ready to interrupt this union with his trusty
.45, but our couple has taken precautions to
thwart this evildoer.
Method A uses film. Study the illustration and
you'll see how it works. The assassin/prowler is
really seeing only a film of the couple.
Method B uses the magician's friend, the
mirror—in this case, a huge mirror. The assassin
sees the reflection of the couple in the mirror and
shoots at it. Having committed the crime, the
"set-up" assassin is now rushed by a bevy of
federal agents.
Again, we use the art of illusion to foil a crime.
This illusion creates a false image of two people
standing in front of a window inside the house.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
85
METHOD A—FILM METHOD
1. Entire film was made in a room with lights off. Small lights
illuminated people on film.
2. Room is dark. Curtains are only opened a little.
3. Film could be reel-to-reel, single loop, or more elaborate
projection method.
METHOD B—MIRROR METHOD
1. Actual people must be present for this illusion to work.
2. The mirror is at a 45* angle to the line of sight. You could use
regular glass or mylar, which has a reflective surface like a
mirror but can be rolled up.
Film Screen
Movie Projector
4. This method will work as shown above, but it works best if
the viewer is at least 8 feet away.
5. You can use rear screen projection if you have access to the
equipment.
86
3. Sandbags can be set up behind mirror to stop bullet.
4. Prowler/assassin shoots reflection.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
SLEEVE DARTS
Sleeve darts have no real use in magic, but this
book is more or less a twisted treatise of the
magician's art anyway.
To make this device you will need a 5-foot
length of 1/4-inch surgical tubing (available at
hardware stores, aquarium suppliers, or medical
supply outlets), a 1-foot piece of copper or
aluminum tubing with a 1/4-inch diameter, and a
baby's ear syringe (any drugstore).
Attach the pieces together as shown. Place the
rigid copper tube under your watchband or tape
it to your inner forearm. Run the surgical tubing
up your sleeve, across your back, and down the
other sleeve into your palm. When you squeeze
the bulb with one hand, the dart flies out the
opposite sleeve.
There are various improvised darts you can
make at home for this device. Three different
types are illustrated.
Dart A is simply a push pin with a wad of
paper on the end next to the head.
Dart B is the best of the three. You need a
plastic bead (hobby shop) and a sewing needle.
Hold the needle with a pair of pliers and heat the
blunt end until it's red hot. Then push this hot
end into the plastic bead. Hold it in place until it
cools, usually only a few seconds. That's it.
Dart C is made from a wooden match. Cut the
head off the match with a razor blade. Then take
a sewing needle (or cut the head off a push pin)
and, using a pair of pliers, push it into one end of
the wooden match. To attach the fin, slice the
opposite end of the match about 1/2 inch from
the top. Pry this slit apart with your fingers and
insert the fin (which, by the way, is a single piece
of paper folded as shown).
I have had great success with all the above
darts. To fire a dart, you insert any one of the
above into the mouth of the rigid copper tube
and push it all the way back to where the surgical
tubing and the rigid tube connect. The dart with
the bead works best because it falls right into
place. Both of the other darts have to be inserted
carefully. The darts should slide freely but yet
provide enough resistance to allow the air current
to thrust them out the end of the tube when fired.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
87
1. Wear long-sleeve shirt or sport coat and insert copper tube under
watchband so it rests along the forearm.
2. The plastic tubing must have no kinks.
3. Run the bulb to the opposite pocket.
Dart A
Needle and Paper Ball
DartB
Needle Burned into
Plastic Bead
DartC
Needle, Wooden Match, Paper Fins
1 /4" x 1' Rigid Copper Tube
1/4" x 5' of Clear Surgical Tubing
Squeeze Bulb
(bab/s ear syringe)
Squeeze bulb quickly and sharply to fire projectile.
88
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
UNBELIEVABLE
So you want some of the really good stuff, do
you? Well, friend, you've got it. This is hard-core
magic. You usually have to be in magic for years
before you run across these extremely closely
guarded secrets.
SMOKE FROM THE MOUTH
I don't know if you have ever seen this effect
performed or not. I first saw Stan Laurel perform
this in an old Laurel and Hardy movie, the title of
which slips my mind. Anyway, the magician
pretends to smoke his thumb. You see him taking
drags off his thumb and blowing out smoke. It's
the strangest thing you've ever seen.
The illustration shows how to construct the
device that makes the trick work. It's a 1-inch
wooden dowel (wooden because metal heats up too
quickly and burns your mouth), drilled as shown.
You can actually do the trick without using the
device if you're good. You simply hold the
cigarette reversed in your mouth as with the
device, except without it. This is for guys who
really want to do the trick for a living. I
recommend using the device, since it's much safer.
Many pros use this same device or one
similar. The other type of gimmick used for this
trick uses a smaller dowel, about 1/2-inch. With
it, you simply bore a 1/4-inch hole through it,
and that's it. The cigarette is stuffed in the hole
and lit. Some of my fellow professionals prefer
this gimmick over others. I'm always worried
about the cigarette going out at the wrong time,
but it's up to you. Build them both and see
which you prefer.
There are also hand-held models of this trick.
The best is a wooden egg-shaped shell with the
front end open. On the other end is a small hole
with a small tube glued over it on the outside.
The cigarette is inserted in the shell and on into
the little hole and tube. You stick the little tube
end into your mouth and light the cigarette in the
shell. Take long heavy drags to suck the flame
into the shell and light the cigarette. In performance, you pretend to smoke your thumb while
actually taking puffs of the gimmick. I much
prefer the "in the mouth" gimmick. These devices
are for sale in magic catalogs.
SMOKE FROM MOUTH
1. Produce cigarette smoke from your mouth with no visible cigarette, a
classic magic effect that is very closely guarded.
2. Device is made from a 1 -inch wooden dowel. Bore holes as shown.
3. Control with tongue. Force smoke out the cigarette butt. Inhale through
nose. Exhale through a device in the mouth. Best results come from a
nonfilter cigarette.
Blow
Through
Here
1/4" bore
Pretend to smoke your thumb.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
89
FLAME-LIFTING METHODS
Imagine, if you will, going into a restaurant or
your favorite hangout, putting a cigarette in your
mouth, reaching over to a candle and pulling off
the flame, and then lighting your cigarette with it.
That's just one of the things you can do with this
trick/effect.
Method A uses an easily constructed device
that can be carried around with you or used with
the candle as shown in the illustration. It is
simply a 1/2-inch piece of copper or metal tubing
that has been crimped in one end and has a small
piece of a birthday candle inserted in its open
end. When used with the large candle, this
apparatus is attached to the candle as shown. The
illustration shows a side view of the candle. The
audience will see the candle from the front, and
no trace of the gimmick will be visible.
If you want to use the gimmick by itself,
simply hold it as shown between two fingers,
hidden from the spectators. Reach over to an
open flame, such as a candle on the table, and let
the candle light the gimmick. Then light your
cigarette. While it will not appear as if you pulled
"the flame" off the candle, it will look as if you
pulled "a flame" off it. And a miracle will have
still been performed.
Method B is more mechanical. Paint a 1inch wooden dowel white to resemble a candle
and drill a hole about 1-inch deep in the top of
the candle. Stuff a piece of copper tubing,
which is also painted white and has a piece of
wire soldered to one side of it, with cotton and
insert a lighter wick in the top of it. Saturate
the cotton and wick with a little lighter fluid
(not a lot or the fluid will leak out the
bottom—not good). The pseudocandle is lit.
The wire is, of course, on the back of the
candle, hidden from the spectator's view. Grab
the wire between the first and second fingers
(same grip as in the previous method) and
90
swivel the hand around so the audience can't
see as you lift the tube out of its holder. The
audience should be seeing the back of your
fingers and hand and a flame floating above
your first finger. Light your cigarette, replace
the flame into the candle, and take a bow.
Method C basically uses a special set of
tweezers made out of fine (thin) music wire. This
device is held in the fork between your thumb
and first finger. In magic we call this the "downs
palm." A coin held in this position is invisible
when viewed from the front or back, as is the
gimmick used in this trick (see illustration of
audience view). You are simply holding a
birthday candle stub or lighter wick between the
prongs. This candle stub can rest on top of a
larger candle, or you can have a lighter wick,
saturated with lighter fluid, tied to the two
prongs and pretend to pluck a flame off a candle
or lighter. Pulling a flame off a butane lighter
looks very impressive. You light the lighter and
hold it with one hand, while in the other hand
you secretly hold the gimmick. With the lighter lit
and held in front of you, reach up with the
gimmick hand and light the wick on the prongs.
When it's lit, you release the butane button,
which shuts off the lighter. You now appear to be
holding the plucked-off flame in your fingers.
Light your cigarette with it and return it to the
lighter. Depress the butane button only. The
lighter will relight as soon as the flame gets near
it. Let the lighter light and then snuff out the
gimmick with your fingers.
There is another way of doing this trick. This
method was invented by the most ingenious
magician who ever lived, U.F. Grant. The trick
uses a metal thumb tip (available from any mail
order magic company). Drill a small hole in the
inner side of the thumb tip and insert a lighter
wick. A couple of balls of cotton are shoved in
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
the thumb tip and saturated with a little lighter
fluid. To use, slip the thumb tip over either
thumb. Then reach over to any open flame and
light the wick. This trick can be bought, ready to
use with instructions, for an absurdly low price.
The effect, however, is priceless.
FLAME LIFTING
1. Performer lifts the
flame off a candle
with his bare fingers!
2. He then lights his
cigarette or another
candle.
METHOD B
METHOD C
Real Candle
Wick Cut Short
Audience View
Copper
Tubing
Painted
White and
Stuffed with
Cotton to
Hold Lighter
Fluid
Lighter Wick Presoaked
with Lighter Fluid
Handle Soldered On (lift
with fingers as above)
Fake Candle (wooden
dowel painted white)
Birthday Candle
Stub Set On Top
of Big Candle
Gimmick (made of thin music wire)
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
91
SELECTED FLAMES AND FIRES
The following are six of my favorite tricks for
stage or private parties.
BANG-FLASH
This is simply a pull-string firework with a
piece of flash paper around the firecracker. Hide
the prepared device in your sleeve, as depicted in
the illustration. When you need to use it, simply
insert your right thumb into the free loop and
pull. A bright flash will appear in front of your
chest, along with the firecracker bang. The
firecracker will ignite the flash paper easily.
band. Open the cover of the matches and bend it
all the way back. Remove two or three matches
and place them between the bent-back cover and
the striker on the back cover. Tightly encircle the
rubber band around the matchbook as shown,
trapping the match heads between the covers
against the striker. The bottoms of the matches
protrude. At this point, if you pull a match free, it
will come out lit. If it doesn't light, tighten the
rubber band. Insert a safety pin through the
matchbook "tunnel," as shown in the illustration,
and pin this under your lapel or your coat. Pull a
match free and it lights: instant magic.
AUTOMATCH
MINIMETEORS
This is a great trick and a great way to meet
women. You pull a lit match out of your lapel or
out from under your coat and light their cigarettes.
It uses three common household items: a book
of paper matches, a safety pin, and a rubber
This trick only requires a book of paper
matches. Cut the heads off several matches with a
razor blade. Hold the closed matchbook in your
fingers as shown. Place one of the match heads
on the bottom portion of the striker (closest to
BANG-FLASH
Magician's View
of His Palm
AUTOMATCH
Safety Pin
Tuck Up Sleeve or
in Watchband
Pull-String Firework
Matchbook
(turned
inside out)
Rubber Band
Pull match
out and it
lights itself.
Matches Tripped against the Striker
between Covers
Flash Paper
92
Pin this device under your coat
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
your body) and place the thumb of that same
hand on the match head to pinch it between the
striker and thumb. Thrust that thumb forward
quickly and release the match head. It will light
and shoot forward (or any direction you wish).
PARTY FLASHER
This is a wonderful little device for either the
stage or the back alley. It is one of those little
champagne party poppers inside a metal 35mm
film can. If you don't want to buy a roll of film,
the grocery store has many products in metal
cans (spices, etc.) Poke a hole in the bottom of
the can and insert the string from the party
popper through it. That's it; you're ready to
perform. I keep one of these, ready to use, tied to
one my belt loops so the popper in the can hangs
down on my side. I have a big ball of flash paper
instead of paper streamers inserted in the popper.
This thing will destroy a charging dog's mind, not
to mention what it might do to a mugger's eyes.
PARTY FLASHER
MINIMETEORS
1. Cut the heads off several paper matches.
Ball of Flash Paper Insert
35mm Film Can
Party Popper
2. Hold the match
head under your
thumb and
against striker.
3. Scrape the match
head across the striker as
your thumb throws it
forward
quickly.
4. Flip the lit match several
feet
2. Try this device by
hand,
much like the hand
flasher on page 2.
FLAMING FINGER
FLAMING FINGER II
1. Stick your finger in your
mouth and wet it heavily
with saliva.
Dip finger in rubbing
alcohol.
3. Light finger with match or
lit candle.
Light cigarette with finger
or transfer flame from
candle to candle.
Poke a hole
in the can
and run a
string
through it.
Flint Wheel
Wick
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Entire unit is made
from pipe
fittings, scrap metal, and a
stripped-down lighter.
Solder, rivet, or use
liquid steel
to connect parts.
Hobby shop has small
metal tubing and fittings.
93
FLAMING FINGER I
FLAMING FINGER II
This is great for lighting someone's cigarette or
transferring a flame from one candle to another.
Stick your finger in your mouth to wet it. Then
dip the finger in rubbing alcohol (or, if in a bar,
use 151 rum). Light your finger immediately with
a lighter or any open flame. Blowout when done.
Don't let it burn for more than 3 or 4 seconds, or
the fire will extinguish on its own.
This mechanical device does the same thing as
in the previous example except that you can let
your finger burn for as long as you want. This
device is painted flesh tone and is invisible from a
few feet. It is made entirely from small metal pipe
fittings. This device was on the market years ago,
and I still see one now and then. It's much easier
just to build your own. Enjoy.
94
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
UTILITY DEVICE
Of all the magician's utility devices I've ever
bought (and I have bought hundreds through the
years), this one is absolutely the best. Take my
word as a professional inventor of magicians'
illusions and devices, this is the best utility device
in the world, with uses on and off the stage.
I keep one pinned to the side of the waistband
of my pants. You can keep whatever you want
inside. I usually keep a small can of personal
defense spray in mine, to be dropped secretly into
my hand should I need it. But I have kept a Walsh
Appearing Cane in it as well. For those unfamiliar with this cane, it is a spring steel cane
about the size of a quarter that when compressed
fits in your hand. When released, it appears so
fast the eye cannot follow where it comes from.
Anyway, I had one of these in this utility clip we
are now discussing when this huge bouncer in a
bar was giving me a rash of crap. He knew my
hands were empty (all bouncers and cops watch
hands very closely). I pressed the clip and silently
dropped the closed cane into my hand. I raised
my hand slightly and released the catch on the
cane. The cane sprung open so fast even I didn't
see it. I popped that son-of-a-bitch right in the
left eye. He screamed bloody murder and cupped
his eye. I reached down, grabbed hold of his pant
cuffs, and pulled his feet out from under him,
causing his head to hit the edge of the bar. Now
his eye and the back of his head were bleeding. I
jumped up and stomped my right heel into his
gonads on the way down and promptly did my
disappearing act. That's only one instance of this
utility device saving my hide.
This utility device is easy to construct. Simply
solder or tape a safety pin to the top of an office
type bulldog clip. Attach this to the side of your
belt or the waistband of your pants, as in the
illustration. Or you can rivet a bulldog clip to your
belt; either way works well.
Put on your sport coat and get a feel for the
device. Practice with different types of loads and
sizes of clips. If the clip will not hold the load of
choice, try this. Get a piece of dark cloth the
width of the bulldog clip. The cloth should be
able to wrap around the load with a couple of
inches to spare. Now glue one end of the cloth to
the inside of one of the jaws of the bulldog clip.
The other end should hang down freely. When
the glue dries, you're set. Now take your load
and set it in the center of the cloth. Take the free
end of the cloth and loop it around the load and
clip the free end in the jaws of the clip. Hold the
bulldog clip up by the safety pin. The load should
be hanging in the cloth under the clip. Now when
you squeeze the clip as usual, the cloth should
release the load, causing it to drop out freely. If
this seems unclear to you, reread the description.
It's a bit complicated, but I promise it's worth it.
I have seen this used in many movies with
magicians and others. I hope you enjoy having
the knowledge of how it's done.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
95
(Magician is shown without coat for clarity)
Bulldog Clip (with a
safety pin soldered on)
Bulldog clip riveted
or safety pinned to
side of belt.
1. Push inner
forearm
against
bulldog clip.
2. Clip opens and
load is
released.
3. Clip fingers
and catch load
as it falls from
beneath your
coat.
4. Your local office supply store can provide you with a multitude of different kinds of bulldog clips.
5. You might attach several of these clips to your belt, thus creating a magician's utility belt.
6. This device can deliver a wide range of objects secretly and silently into your hand.
96
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
FIRECRACKER DEVICES
CAUTION: The following are extremely
dangerous devices and are not toys. These are
minibombs for professional use only. Do not
show children how they are made or allow them
to view any portion of this.
EXPLODING DARTS
This is a large firecracker with a sewing needle
shoved in one end. On the other end is a wooden
match with its head cut off. The match is split
about 1/2 inch from one end and a piece of paper
inserted. This paper is fashioned into a guiding
fin. Light the device and throw it at the bad guy.
EXPLODING EVASION DEVICES
You're probably wondering what kind of
twisted person came up with this. I did. I can't
help the fact that I'm a creative person. Designing
infernal machines and devices is a hobby of mine,
in case you haven't noticed. This device is nothing
more than a firecracker with fishhooks attached
to it with tape or glue. The device is lit and
thrown onto the evildoer's clothes. Think about
that for a second. It's raw terror. The device sticks
to him, and he can't get it off. When it blows, the
fishhook shrapnel embeds in his skin. Use only in
a life-or-death situation for obvious reasons.
EXPLODING CIGARETTES
This is a firecracker that has been inserted into
a cigarette. I thought of inserting a nonelectric
blasting cap, but even I thought that was a little
too far. Cut the fuze on the firecracker short. The
tobacco provides a delay, but make several and
experiment so you can find out exactly how long
a delay. These are great for diversion. Enjoy.
Paper Fins
EXPLODING DARTS
Wooden Match Stick (split
with razor-blade-attached
fins)
1. To be thrown outright or blown through a blowgun.
2. You could glue or tape "strike anywhere" match
heads to the end of the fuze.
3. Light on the wall or sidewalk or throw to ignite.
4. Needle becomes shrapnel when firecracker explodes.
Sewing Needle
Large Firecracker
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
97
EXPLODING EVASION DEVICES
1. Light and throw. Run like hell!
2. This extremely dangerous device will stick to
clothing of attacker when thrown and won't
come off until it explodes.
3. Glue or tape on BBs for added shrapnel.
X-ray View of Cigarette
EXPLODING CIGARETTES
Firecracker Insert
Shortened Fuze
1. This method could also be used for
industrial-strength exploding cigars.
2. These cigarettes are not to be smoked!
3. Drop several of these around a room via a
magician's cigarette dropper, which holds
about 10 lit cigarettes. (See magic dealers in
Appendix E to mail order a dropper.)
Tobacco for Delay
98
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
PlCK-A-CARD
This is a nasty little joke that might get your
butt kicked if you pull it on the wrong person. Be
prepared with a backup if it goes awry. I use it on
loud-mouthed drunks. Of course, I weigh 255
and am built like a football player. This is not
something for the pencil-necked geek-type
magician. If you look anything like our beloved
ex-president, George Bush, with a shirt collar size
of 12, pass on this one. You'll just get stomped.
Don't get mad at me. I absolutely love to jump
into a fight where some little guy is getting his
butt kicked and rescue him. Let's stay friends.
You need to start by removing everything
from a mousetrap except the fly bar (the part that
flies over and snuffs the mouse). Do this with a
pair of needle-nose pliers. That's all there is to it.
Bend the fly bar back on the mousetrap and
hold it down, under tension, and invert it. Pinch
the bar against the wooden base with your first
finger and thumb and hold it like that. Now put
a deck of cards on top of the bottom part of the
mousetrap (bottom is facing up) and fan the
deck. Pinch the rest of the mousetrap closest to
your body (there will only be about 1/8 inch)
with the rest of your fingers. Also pinch in this
grip from above with the thumb.
Ask some idiot from the audience to pick a
card. Justify your actions by picking a heckler,
never a woman or child! The sucker reaches over
to pick a card, and his fingers go beneath the
deck. At that instant, release the fly bar. Tell him
that's a souvenir he can take home to cherish this
magical moment for eternity. Laugh your fool
head off as you say this.
Clown Prince
Just in Case
Mouthy Spectator
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
99
Deck of Cards (fanned for selection)
Spectator (about
to get nailed)
Mousetrap (held
hidden and armed
beneath cards)
Pinch the fly bar and hold under tension with one finger while your other fingers hold the rest of mousetrap and fanned deck.
100
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
IMPACT SMOKE BOMB II
This next type of impact smoke device is
chemically initiated. It uses two commonly
available chemicals, so you shouldn't have too
much trouble building it. These chemicals are
ammonia and hydrochloric acid. Ammonia is
available from the grocery store, and hydrochloric acid can be purchased at a swimming pool
supply outlet. Check the yellow pages.
The containers used for this device are a glass
Christmas tree ornament and a test tube. The
illustration shows how these two containers fit
together and house the chemicals separately. It is
very important that the chemicals do not mix. A
drop of each is all it takes to produce smoke. I
suggest you glue the cork to the test tube and in
turn glue the rim of the test tube to the rim of the
Christmas ornament. There must be an absolutely
airtight seal.
You could add gelatin to the ammonia to
stabilize it in the bulb and keep it from sloshing
around. This is a good idea if you are going to be
carrying it around with you for any length of time.
You have less worry about that airtight seal, too.
However, for stage use, I don't suggest this. Having
gelatin splatter all over the stage doesn't look very
professional. But for a dark alley, it won't make a
hell of a lot of difference.
It's very simple to operate this device; just
throw it down hard so both of the glass
WARNING:
containers break and the chemicals mix. When
doing this on stage, I suggest you throw the
device onto a large, flat oil pan so you don't leave
permanent marks on the stage and end up owing
them money.
If you intend to carry this device around with
you, try to suspend it from your belt with a string
or paper clip. Don't put it in your pocket; there is
too great a chance it will break. I deliberately designed this device with the ammonia in the outer
container. If hydrochloric acid were in the outer
container and the device accidentally broke, you
would have serious trouble if it splashed on your
skin. Hydrochloric acid in its concentrated form
is very caustic and will cause burns.
That's about it for this device. A reliable
source in the entertainment industry told me this
was the method used in the first Batman movie
in 1989. Batman uses it during the fight scene in
the chemical plant when he is up on the scaffolding. He throws the smoke bomb down and
escapes up a rope via some sort of motorized
reel. Yes, I'm working on a device like that too. I
haven't yet found a strong enough motor that is
compact enough to be worn on a belt or carried
in a jacket pocket. Maybe I'll have it ready for
volume 2. If you have any ideas for it, please
write me in care of Paladin Press, P.O. Box 1307,
Boulder, CO 80306.
THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN 101
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
This device will produce
heavy white smoke.
IMPACT SMOKE BOMB II
Cork (glue closed)
Optional Paper
Clip (clip on belt
or suspend in
breast pocket)
Glass Christmas
Tree Ornament
Test Tube with
Hydrochloric Acid
(swimming-pool
chemical)
Ornament Filled
with Ammonia
(grocery store)
1. The test tube is nested in ornament's mouth.
2. Glue ornament and tube mouths for an air-tight seal. It
must have no leaks!
102
3. Throw the bulb on the ground to break. It produces
instant smoke when the chemicals mix.
4. Make several of these and store in an empty egg carton.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
APPENDIX A
HOW TO MAKE FLASH PAPER AND FLASH POWDER
FLASH POWDER
Potassium nitrate
Powdered magnesium
2 parts by weight
2 parts by weight
FLASH POWDER (Brilliant Flash)*
Aluminum powder
2 parts by weight
Potassium dichromate
2 parts by weight
RED FLASH POWDER
Powdered magnesium
2 parts by weight
2 parts by weight
Strontium nitrate
GREEN FLASH POWDER
Potassium nitrate
2 parts by weight
Powdered boric acid
2 parts by weight
Powdered magnesium
2 parts by weight
Powdered sulfur
2 parts by weight
FLASH PAPER
Prepare a solution of 4 parts sulfuric acid and 5
parts nitric acid in a glass dish. Soak cigarette
rolling papers in this mixture for 10 minutes.
Remove the papers with a glass rod and wash the
acid off. Let them dry. Keep them in a metal box
and away from any heat.
COLORED FLASH PAPER
(Prepare as separate solutions.)
Strontium nitrate
Red flash paper
Potassium nitrate
Violet flash paper
Sodium nitrate
Yellow flash paper
Deep green flash paper Copper chloride
Barium nitrate
Pale green flash paper
Strontium chloride
Crimson flash paper
*WARNING: You have just made nitrocellulose. Do not store large amounts of it.
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
103
APPENDIX B
IMPROVISED RADIO DETONATION DEVICES
The following commercially available devices
can be modified to remotely detonate an
improvised explosive device:
Cellular mobile telephone
Radio paging system (beeper)
Wireless intercom
Toy walkie-talkie
Touch-Tone encoding and decoding system
Cordless telephone
Citizens band radio
FM wireless microphone and portable receiver
Autoalarm paging system
VHF scanner as a receiver
•
•
•
•
Audio modulated relay
Toy remote-controlled car, boat, etc.
Garage door opener
Television remote-controlled channel changer
IMPROVISED EXPLOSIVE DEVICES FROM
COMMERCIAL BURGLAR ALARMS
Any burglar alarm can be modified into an
improvised explosive device triggering system by
simply substituting and replacing the existing
alarm (audible or silent) bell with the leads of a
blasting cap (improvised or commercial). Then
put the cap into the explosive, as illustrated.
Leads to Burglar Alarm
Blasting Cap
Alarm Bell
(discard)
104
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
APPENDIX C
INITIATING ACTIONS
Four Main Systems
• Mechanical actions
• Chemical actions
• Friction
• Electrical current
Initiating Actions
Pull—Barometric
Pressure—Delay
Release of pressure—Proximity
Combinations—Controlled
Thermal—Antiwithdrawal
Tilt—Booby-trapped
Antiphoto—Collapsing circuit
Triggering Methods,
Fuzing Systems, and Firing Devices
Pressure
Pull
Release of pressure
Combination devices
Tilt
Thermal
Antiphoto
• Barometric
• Delay
Clock work
Chemical
Water drip
Expanding seed
Material fatigue
Electric
Electronic
Time-fuze
Cigarette/matchbook
Magnifying glass
• Proximity initiators
Vibratory switches
Magnetic induction or magnetic movement
Photoelectric
• Acoustic
Frequency induction
Controlled actions
Antiwithdrawal and booby-trapped actions
Hydrostatic
Collapsed circuit
Antiprobe circuit
Antisubmerge circuit
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
105
APPENDIX D
SUPPLY SOURCES
Drugstores and warehouses
Hardware stores
Construction sites
Military magazine areas
Machine shops
Battery shops
Chemistry laboratories
Paint stores
Plumbing and heating suppliers
Hospitals and hospital suppliers
Match manufacturers and factories
Novelty stores
Fireworks stands and sources
Photography suppliers and distributors
Soap and candle makers
Electronic suppliers and distributors
Acetylene and liquid oxygen dealers
106
• Medical suppliers
• Fertilizer (oxidizer) dealers
• Gunshops
• Magazines (Popular Science, classifieds, etc.)
• Hobby shops—The modern hobby shop
provides a multitude of supplies and should be
checked closely for such supplies as:
Fuzing systems (electronic)
Incendiaries
Chemicals
Containers
Mechanical timing devices
Burning time fuze (hobby fuze)
Carbide devices
Transmitters and receiving devices
(remote-controlled devices)
Nichrome wire and glo-plugs
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
APPENDIX E
MAGIC DEALERS
The following magic dealers carry flash paper and other tools of the trade that are used in the devices
in this manual. Write to them for copies of their current catalogs.
Hank Lee's Magic Factory
Mail Order Division
P.O. Box 789
Medford, MA 02155
Magic Inc.
5082 N. Lincoln Ave.
Chicago, IL 60625
Tannen's Magic
6 West 32nd St.
New York, NY 10001
Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
107
BIBLIOGRAPHY
108
WARNING: THE EFFECTS AND DEVICES IN THIS BOOK ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE UNDERTAKEN
BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS ONLY. THIS MATERIAL IS PRESENTED FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY.
Was this manual useful for you? yes no
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Download PDF

advertisement