Eden WT-405 Time Traveler Operating instructions

Eden WT-405 Time Traveler Operating instructions
Time Traveler
Bass Guitar Amplifier
Covering Models
WT330, WT390, WT405
©06-14-2005 by U.S. Music Corp.
Bass Guitar Amplifier
WT330, WT390, WT405
Publishing Date 06-14-2005
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Eden World Tour Integrated
Amplifier System. All of us at Eden are totally committed to providing you
with the very best bass guitar systems in their class. Our goals are to offer
you the outstanding performance quality of a top-notch, professional bass
amplification system at a reasonable price point, and to make World Tour
amplifiers the most musical and reliable Bass amplifiers available.
This manual will cover all domestic and international versions of the Time
Traveler amplifiers, including the WT330, WT390 and WT405.
The WT330 delivers 200 watts RMS output @ 8 Ohms, 330 watts @ 4
Ohms and 420 watts @ 2 Ohms. The WT390 delivers 235 watts RMS output
@ 8 Ohms, 390 watts @ 4 Ohms and 625 watts @ 2 Ohms. The WT405
delivers 250 watts @ 8 Ohms, 405 watts @ 4 Ohms and 650 watts @ 2
Ohms. All have +3dB of headroom and feature thermostatically controlled
active cooling systems with built-in thermal safeties.
You have purchased what we feel is one of the finest bass amplifiers
in the world. The new pre-amplifier section, with its familiar Eden Enhance
control and powerful new 3-way tone control system are coupled to a studio
quality compressor. The new automatic Dynamic Booster for low and high
frequencies, along with a mid shifter, tone bypass, selectable DI, selectable
distortion and a gentle auto-compression circuit, allow you to achieve a wide
array of sounds. This compact, rack mountable package houses modular
circuits made with superior components and designed for years of troublefree service.
The Eden World Tour products group is the result of our quest for ultimate
bass tone and maximum reliability. Your new Time Traveler Amplifier
features our latest solid-state front end, using the Golden Ear chip to provide
unequaled tube emulation. This chip was originally designed for use in highend recording consoles, such as the Harris and Neve units. While the cost is
much higher than that of other chips, we believe the result is more than
worth the cost and think you’ll agree.
Your amplifier was designed, engineered and manufactured equivalent to
aircraft vibration standards and housed in a one-piece aluminum case with
steel top to ensure maximum reliability. The modular design allows quick
repair in the field should such a need arise.
The Eden line of World Tour amplifiers is the result of our research and
development in combining high performance and compact size. Just as a
skilled craftsman needs good quality tools that won't let him down on the
job, so does a good musician. We hope you enjoy the tool we’ve created for
you. Have fun; play low!
Please read this manual in its entirety before operating your new amplifier.
Failure to do so could result in misuse or damage. We’ve taken the time to
write it, which was a lot longer than the time it will take for you to read it.
Help us help you by taking a few moments to learn how to properly use your
new amp. You’ll be glad you did!
Please complete for your records:
Date of Purchase: __________________________
Model: ___________________________________
Serial Number: _____________________________
Dealer: ___________________________________
Your ears are your most important piece of
equipment. Unfortunately, they cannot be replaced
as easily as your other gear. Please take the
following warning seriously.
This product, when used in combination with
loudspeakers and/or additional amplification may
be capable of producing sound levels that could
cause permanent hearing loss. DO NOT operate at
high volume levels or at a level that is
uncomfortable. If you experience any discomfort or
ringing in the ears or suspect hearing loss, you
should consult an audiologist.
Thank you for your purchase of an Eden bass
guitar product. This unit has been designed and
constructed to give you years of trouble-free service.
Please take the time to review this manual
and to send in your warranty registration card.
Input Jacks – Designed to accept a standard _ inch mono phone plug. For
best results use a high quality shielded cable to connect your instrument to
the amplifier. Both inputs are buffered and will handle standard passive,
high level active, and piezo input signals. Both jacks can be used
Mute switch – Mutes all the outputs except the Tuner Out, allowing for
silent tuning. Lead singers and guitarists love this feature! The indicator
lights when Mute is ON.
D.I. Selector – Allows the user to send the D.I. before (PRE position) or
after (POST position) the Tone Control section.
Input Gain Switch – By pushing the Gain Switch in, you engage a +10db
gain boost. For low gain instruments use the High Gain position.
Hi Gain Indicator LED – Lights to indicate that the unit is in the high gain
Warm Switch – This switch engages the positive half-wave tube-style
warmth circuit, which is part of what the Golden Ear Chip is there for. The
warmth/grit effect is increased by adding more input gain.
Warm Trim – Located behind the front panel. Use a small screwdriver to
adjust the level of the effect.
Gain Control – Regulates the first gain stage of the preamplifier and
controls the amount of signal available to the system.
Clip Indicator – Flashes to indicate clipping anywhere in the system.
Clipping is a Very Bad Thing and will degrade the quality of your sound.
Therefore, this indicator should never be lit up.
Compressor Control – This adjusts the threshold level of the compressor.
The ratio is fixed at an optimum point for Bass reproduction.
Compressor Indicator – Lights to indicate that the signal has crossed the
threshold of the compression circuit and that compression is taking place.
Compressor Bypass – Turning the Compressor control OFF will disengage
the compressor.
Enhance Control – Called the “Magic Knob” by some, this complex
control simultaneously boosts the very low bass, upper middle, and high
frequencies while putting a dip in the lower middle frequencies.
It is flat when set to its minimum level (fully counterclockwise).
Tone Control Section
These three controls and two switches allow you to boost or cut the tone at
the desired frequency. The spacing allows the controls to interact smoothly
and musically. From left to right, the controls and switches are:
Bass – This traditional shelving tone control provides 15 dB of boost or cut
at approx. 30Hz. The control is flat in the 12:00 position.
Tone Bypass Control – Located between the Bass and Mid tone controls. A
great tool for recording, this bypasses the tone section only and does not
effect the Dynamic Boost or the compressor.
Midrange Control – This covers the center portion of the sound envelope
and can be critical to getting your sound right. The body of the Bass Guitar
sound is in the Midrange.
Mid Shift Control – Located between the Midrange and Treble tone
controls. This switch shifts the Midrange control from low mid (550Hz),
which is good for general playing and recording, to the high mid position
(2.2KHz) for Rock and more aggressive tones.
Treble – This traditional shelving-type tone control provides 15 db of boost
or cut at approximately 11KHz. The control is flat at the 12: 00 position.
Dynamic Boost – Immediately to the right of the Treble control you will
find two switches labeled Bass and Treble. These engage the Dynamic
Boost. This feature allows the extreme lows and highs to be adjusted to the
ear’s relative loudness curve (Fletcher-Munson curve). This ensures the bass
will sound full and solid even at very low playing levels.
We recommend you engage these switches at low volumes so that your
sound remains consistent at any volume. At higher volume levels they aren’t
needed but you may want to use them as a matter of taste. Because we
strongly support Freedom of Choice, we’ve incorporated these two switches
into our design. (You’re welcome.)
Master Level Control – Adjusts overall system output and stage loudness.
Headphone Jack – Accepts a standard _ inch stereo or mono headphone
plug. It can also be used as a Master Output send to slave another amplifier.
Output Limit Indicator – Lights to indicate activity of the power amplifier
limiting circuit, which protects the speaker system from severe distortion.
This LED indicates that the amplifier has reached its maximum output level.
Mains On/Off Switch – This switch turns the system power ON or OFF.
The switch illuminates to indicate the presence of AC power present in the
chassis. This switch is prior to the fuse. The switch light can be on even if
the fuse is blown. The light in the switch may flicker depending on local
voltage conditions. This is normal and nothing to be concerned about.
Speaker On/Off Switch – This switch turns off the loudspeaker output
jacks allowing the user to use the headphones only for silent practice. Room
mates and neighbors may really appreciate this feature, especially at three in
the morning.
Combination Power Cord Jack and Fuse Holder – The removable power
cord is attached here. To access the fuse holder, pull the holder out of the top
of the power receptacle. Your unit was shipped with a spare fuse inserted in
REPLACMENT. Using a fuse with a different rating than specified is a
VERY BAD THING and can cause damage to your amplifier. All
models come with a holder marked (FUSE) and are factory configured for
100/120/ 230/240 only and must be adapted by a service tech for any voltage
change. The standard fuse for U.S. use is a 5 Amp slow blow or time delay
type. Do not use fast blow fuses.
Amp Outs – These consist of two _ inch jacks and an NL-4 connector
(sometimes called a Speakon). The jacks are wired in parallel. The total
speaker load impedance should not go below 2 ohms. On NL-4 connectors,
we use +1, -1 connections.
Amplifier Power Rating:
200 watts RMS @ 8 Ohms
330 watts RMS @ 4 Ohms
420 watts RMS @ 2 Ohms
235 watts RMS @ 8 Ohms
390 watts RMS @ 4 Ohms
625 watts RMS @ 2 Ohms
250 Watts RMS @ 8 Ohms
405 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms
655 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms
All models have +3dB of headroom. This means that the maximum output is
twice the RMS rating.
Mono Pre-Tone Effects Send/Return – These standard _ inch jacks allow
you to send and receive your signal to and from external devices. The effects
loop is positioned post (behind) the compressor and before the Enhance
control and the tone section. This loop is at line level; do not use instrument
level effects in this loop as they tend to be overloaded by the higher signal
level which can cause distortion.
Recording Out – This fully balanced XLR output allows you to send a preor post-EQ signal to a recording or sound reinforcement mixing console. We
use Pin 2 hot configuration. Adjusting the Master Volume control will not
affect this send. This output is designed to use with phantom powered
systems. However, it never hurts to turn off the phantom power at the board,
if possible.
D.I. Level – Controls the level being sent from the XLR balanced output
jack. We suggest setting the control at approximately 12 o’clock initially. If
the signal to the board is too hot, it’s better to engage the Input Pad on your
channel of the board than to turn it down here, if at all possible. In general,
it’s better (in terms of signal-to-noise ratio and dynamic presentation) to
send as hot a signal as possible to the board. However, you can adjust the
signal level, if necessary, so make sure your soundperson or recording
engineer is aware of this capability.
Ground Lift Switch – This switch lifts the ground within the balanced
output system to allow you to eliminate excessive noise/ground loops when
connected to external systems.
Stereo Aux. Input - These standard _ inch input jacks are designed to
accept the signal from an external source such as a CD or cassette player,
drum machine, synth. module, etc. The signal is summed (added in) prior to
the tone controls and Master Volume control. These jacks can also be used
to return a studio cue signal, allowing the Time Traveler to provide you with
your own headphone mix in the studio.
Amplifier Break Link – These are provided to break the signal chain at the
input to the amplifier. This can be used as an insert point or control point for
the final amplifier. Unlike an FX (effects) Loop, this separates the pre-amp
and power amp completely. This means you can do some Really Neat
Things, such as using the power amp to drive a monitor or two while using
the pre-amp section to drive a separate, larger power amp for your bass
speakers. Of course, you can also use these jacks as a post-EQ FX Loop.
Tuner Out Jack – This standard _ inch jack is designed to provide a pregain signal for connection to a tuner. It can also be used to provide pre-tone
signal to other devices such as a direct box or console. The signal is 2X
input, enough to provide adequate signal to virtually every tuner on the
Cooling System – Your amplifier features a thermostatically controlled fan,
which will switch on when the internal temperature reaches 130 degrees F.
In low volume situations (into 8 Ohm loads) the fan may not come on at all.
The cooling system also features a high temperature thermal safety system,
which will activate an AGC (Automatic Gain Control) circuit if the
operating temperature goes above 190 degrees F. This circuit will
automatically turn down the output of the system in the event of
overheating. It will automatically reset itself to full power as soon as the unit
cools down to a safe operating temperature.
NOTE: the D.I. will continue to operate normally even when the amplifier
is in thermal safety mode. Only the stage sound will be lost.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Excessive heat is a Very Bad Thing and can
result in severe damage to your amplifier. DO NOT bypass or
disconnect any part of your thermal safety system. Doing so will
immediately void your warranty!
feet from the bottom of your amp unless you are mounting it in a rack.
There is a vent underneath the amp; covering this vent will decrease the
effectiveness of the cooling system and may cause damage to your
amplifier. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!
Mechanical and Thermal Issues – During operation, your amplifier should
always be placed away from sources of moisture or heat. Care should be
taken not to obstruct the ventilation holes on the bottom and sides of the
unit. In the event of thermal shutdown, you should eliminate the cause of the
thermal problem (poor ventilation, speaker loads lower than 2 ohms)
immediately. The supplied rack ears can be used to install your amplifier in
a conventional equipment rack for protection during transportation.
Electrical Connection – The Time Traveler requires at least 10 Amps of
correctly wired alternating current for proper operation. Providing less than
10 Amps of power may result in poor amplifier performance and bad tone,
so it’s probably not a good idea to plug all of your band’s gear into a single
wall outlet.
Connections – All instrument-level input connections (everything but the
speakers) should be made with high quality shielded cables. The use of
speaker cables for input connections will result in excess noise. Speaker
connections should be made with high quality 16 gauge or heavier
unshielded speaker cables. We recommend 10 or 12 gauge cables. The use
of shielded line or instrument cables for speaker connections can
damage your amplifier. The speaker cable should be as short as possible.
As bassists, each of us has in our head a concept of our perfect sound. Eden
amplifiers are designed to help you easily achieve the sound you hear inside
you. However, it’s a multi-step process as explained below.
In order to ensure the ultimate in tone, it’s important to follow the procedure
outlined below. Don’t skip steps; don’t jump around. Yes, this may take a
minute or two, but the work is well worth it. Once they’ve done it a few
times, most users can do it time and again in about a minute.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you plug in your unit for the first time,
please do the following things. First, turn the power switch to the OFF
position. Check the back of your unit for the correct voltage notation for
your county of operation.
Once you’ve ensured correct voltage, set the Master Volume control to
minimum (fully counter-clockwise). Set the tone controls to the center
position (12:00 or 0). Turn the Enhance control to the minimum position.
Set the Input Gain control to the minimum (fully counter-clockwise). Set the
Compressor to the OFF position (fully counter-clockwise). On the front of
the unit, set the Speaker switch in the ON position. Make sure the Dynamic
Boost switches are OFF. This will set your amplifier up flat and with the
Compressor disengaged. Next, plug in the power cord to the AC inlet on the
back of the unit. Use only a safe grounded receptacle for proper operation at
the correct voltage for your country. Double check to make certain your
amplifier is set for the correct voltage in your country.
Turn On – Once you’ve completed the steps above, you can plug in your
bass and turn on the unit (plug it in first, ok?) and let’s get started. We
recommend turning your system on with the Master Volume control set to
its minimum position. This will prevent any unexpected signal from being
sent to your speakers.
Setting Your Level – Remember, begin with the Input Gain, Enhance,
Compressor and Master Volume completely OFF – fully counter-clockwise.
All EQ should be set flat, that is, at 12:00 – straight up.
While playing your lowest note (or loudest), slowly turn the Input Gain up
until the Clip light begins to blink with regularity. If you go past 2 or 3
o’clock, engage the Gain Switch to better match the gain of your instrument
to the amplifier.
If you have disengaged the Compressor as we suggested, the Clip light will
barely blink on your loudest notes when you reach clipping in the Input
stage. We recommend you decrease gain one or two clicks to ensure there is
no clipping in the system. By the way, this is David’s favorite way to set
level, even if you intend to use compression.
Once you have properly set your Input Gain, turn the Master Volume up to a
comfortable listening level and proceed with the rest of the setup process.
Setting the Compressor - If you want to use compression, engage it now by
turning up the Compressor Threshold control. The compressor light will
blink when your gain goes above the compression threshold. This will
generally show up more on the lower notes, or when you employ Slapping.
(A properly compressed Slap sound is very cool, indeed.)
The frequencies that you’ll need to boost or cut are dependent upon your
instrument, playing style, speaker cabinets, and venue. Extreme settings of
boost or cut are unlikely to be necessary or helpful. We are frequently asked
to provide suggested settings for various styles of play. We have discovered
though, that most of our endorsers tend to set their EQ generally flat, using
varying amounts of the Enhance Control to achieve their sound. In fact, a
number of our recording artists tell us that their standard recording set-up is
to have the Enhance set at approximately 9 or 10 O’clock and the tone
controls set flat. They then send a post-EQ D.I. to the board.
We encourage you to experiment with different settings to obtain the sound
you desire. We have included some EQ panel diagrams at the back of this
manual to help you record your settings.
Enhance – Once you’ve set your gain, you can move on to setting your EQ,
beginning with the Enhance control, or Magic Knob, as some call it. The
Enhance circuitry adds very low bass, upper mids and highs while scooping
out a bit of low middle. The more Enhance effect you dial in, the greater the
boost (and cut). As with all of our EQ controls, a little goes a long way.
Slowly bring the Enhance control up while playing. If you turn it up close to
maximum on the dial and still don’t have your sound, stop there. Return the
Enhance to OFF or leave it at no more than 12:00 and work with the EQ
Using the EQ Controls – Before you begin to twiddle knobs, let’s talk
about a few things. Excessive boosting of one or more EQ frequencies may
cause an overload in the EQ section. If this happens, the Clip light will
engage. This is a Very Bad Thing and needs to be corrected immediately.
If EQ clipping occurs, you can either decrease the boost or decrease the
Input Gain. Remember, too, that our EQ controls are active, and are meant
to turn both ways – not just UP! This means that you can enhance a certain
frequency spectrum either by boosting that frequency or by cutting the
adjacent frequencies. This latter method has the advantage of maximizing
potential headroom.
If possible, step well forward of your rig to get a better idea of how you will
sound in the room. You may be surprised at how different you sound once
you step away from the speakers.
NOTE: Many players rely on the Enhance Control (and perhaps a little
Midrange Massage) to get their sound. This method leaves the Bass and
Treble controls available to dial in to a particularly difficult room. Just
something to keep in mind, ok?
Setting Bass and Treble – OK, now it’s time to set the EQ, beginning with
the Bass and Treble controls. These controls cover a fairly broad frequency
spectrum and a little goes a long way. Adjust these controls up or down as
needed. We suggest playing a few notes in various areas of the neck so you
can hear what your adjustments have done across the fretboard.
Setting the Midrange – Adjusting the Midrange control will bring you
either more up-front in the mix or more in the background. As mentioned
earlier, you can choose between center frequencies for the Midrange control
– either 550Hz or 2.2KHz. The low position (550Hz) is good for general
playing and recording. It’s also good for dialing in a good Fretless Bass
tone. The high position (2.2KHz) is good for getting a more aggressive Rock
We suggest you start in the low position. While playing, boost and cut the
Midrange so you can hear how it affects your tone. Remember to play in all
ranges, not just on the first few frets. Once you have an idea of the tonal
possibilities, switch to the High position and do the same thing. This will
give you a better idea of what this control can do for your sound and you can
then dial in what you want more effectively.
NOTE: Don’t forget that you can disengage the entire tone control system
by pushing the EQ Bypass switch. This is Really Neat Thing that many
users like to use when recording.
ANOTHER NOTE: If you plan on using the Warmth circuit to get some
extra grit in your sound, you may want to wait a minute before adjusting the
Midrange. So let’s talk about the Warm Switch now.
Warm Switch – This works with the Golden Ear Chip we told you about
earlier. If you want to introduce some extra tube-style warmth (and just a
touch of grit) into your sound, this is button to push. Once this button is
engaged, your Input Gain determines how much warmth is dialed in. Keep
in mind that increasing the gain level will affect how the compressor
operates. That’s where the Warm Trim Pot comes in.
Warm Trim Pot – Look closely at the front of your amplifier. See that tiny
little hole below and to the left of the Input Gain? Inside that hole is a small
set screw that allows you to adjust the amount of warmth added to your
sound. Turn it to the left and you decrease the warmth level. Turn it to the
right and you increase it.
Some people want lots of grit; other people want just a touch of extra tube
warmth. By adjusting the Input Gain and this set screw, you can get the right
amount of both distortion and compression for your sound. It might take a
minute or two the first time, but it’s well worth the effort.
Engage the Dynamic Boost – As mentioned earlier, this effect is based on
the Fletcher-Munson curve and ensures that the bass is full and the highs are
crisp, even at the lowest volume settings. As volume increases, the effect is
reduced, resulting in very consistent tone regardless of volume level. We
suggest you spend some time experimenting with this Really Neat Feature.
We believe that you’ll think it’s Really Neat, too.
Final Settings – If you haven’t adjusted the Midrange yet, now is the time
to do it. Boosting or cutting the mids may change how much warmth and
grit you dial in, so be prepared to make adjustments there as well.
Clipping = Bad – Keep an eye on the EQ Clip light. If it blinks, either
reduce Input Gain or cut back on one or more EQ ranges. As we said earlier,
Clipping in the preamp section is a Very Bad Thing and is to be avoided at
all times. If you find yourself running out of amplifier headroom, cut a little
in the lower frequencies, which require the most power from your amp.
You’ll know this is happening if you see the Limit light flashing. As long as
the light is just blinking, you’re fine. But, if it’s on more than it’s off, you
might want to back off a bit.
Frequency Oddities – Two areas are a frequent source of frustration for
bassists trying to achieve their sound: frequency masking and frequency
enhancement. Frequency masking occurs when other instruments
(particularly cymbals and electric guitars) obscure the important upper
harmonic content of your sound. As a result, you find that the EQ settings
that were so perfect at home lack definition in a live setting. On the other
hand, the stage settings that worked so well sound harsh and/or thin in the
absence of other instruments.
Frequency enhancement results from cabinet placement and room acoustics.
A cabinet placed on the floor will have the lower frequencies boosted by
about 3 db. Placement against a wall adds another 3 db. A corner adds 3 db
more. Consequently you may find a surprising boominess to your sound.
Certain qualities in the room itself can also enhance the lower frequencies,
further contributing to this problem. Frequently this effect is more noticeable
in the audience than it is on stage. Compensating for it may result in a stage
sound that may seem a little thin. However the sound is actually quite full
out in front.
NOTE; Remember, you can’t equalize out major physical room anomalies.
If things sound really weird where you are, try moving you rig a few feet
and see if that helps. This may be particularly helpful on saggy stages that
bounce like a drum head. (The propellerhead term for this is
“diaphragmatic.” So says David. – LB)
There you have it: a quick and easy process to help you get the perfect tone
from your Eden amplifier. As previously mentioned, it make take a few
extra minutes the first few times you go through this, especially if you take
the time to experiment with all the knobs and switches, which we highly
We are confident that the time you spend getting to know your new friend is
an important investment, one that will pay off immeasurably in Great Bass
Tone. And, after all, that’s why you bought an Eden, right?
Suggested Speaker Systems – Your speaker system should be chosen to
accommodate the characteristics of your amplifier and your predominant
application. If you will only be using one cabinet, a 4 Ohm model will draw
the most current from your amplifier. If you will generally be using two
cabinets, they should both be 8 Ohm models so their combined impedance
will be 4 ohms. If you are uncertain about your future needs, always go with
the 8 Ohm speaker option so that you can add another speaker later if you
need to. In general, adding more speakers will give you a greater volume
increase than adding a few more watts.
We have designed our amplifiers to operate safely at 2 Ohms only because
everyone else is doing it and some users expect it. However, we much prefer
operating at 8 or 4 Ohms because of the markedly improved quality of tone
and dynamic response. But if you really want to, you can operate your Time
Traveler at 2 Ohms without worry.
Headphone Jack as a Line Driver – On some occasions (such as highvolume or outdoor situations) it may be desirable to use the Time Traveler
along with an additional power amplifier and added cabinets. A standard
shielded instrument cable may be used to connect from the headphone jack
of the unit to an unbalanced input of a standard power amplifier. This will
provide a signal that is post-EQ and after the Master Volume control,
allowing the entire system to be controlled from the Time Traveler. This
way, you only have to adjust one set of knobs. This is a Really Neat Thing,
Using the Time Traveler Without Speakers -This amplifier is designed to
be used safely with headphones only, without the loud speaker plugged in.
No harm will result from using the amplifier in this fashion. This allows the
use of the unit for practice with headphones and as a preamplifier with other
amplifiers. Like we said earlier, neighbors and room mates really love this,
which qualifies it as another Really Neat Thing.
Your Eden amplifier has been designed to require minimal routine
maintenance. Attention to the following areas will ensure optimum
performance of your amplifier. We’re serious. Don’t blow this off, OK?
Contact Point Cleaning – One of the weakest links in most bass
amplification systems are the solderless connection points where
instruments, speaker cabinets, effects, and other devices are connected to the
amplifier. (The most vulnerable of these types of connection is the jack on
your instrument). In addition to contamination from airborne pollutants,
these points are frequently assaulted by connectors that have picked up
debris from dirty stages, cases, etc.
This contamination can result in poor contact as well as poor tone, and we
all know that bad tone is a Very Bad Thing. These points should be cleaned
regularly with a cotton swab soaked in denatured alcohol or a commercially
available de-oxidant. Frequent cleaning of the plugs on your cords is also
Dust Removal – You should periodically inspect the ventilation openings
on the top and sides of the unit to ensure that they have not become blocked
by accumulated dust. Vacuum the openings to remove any dust buildup.
Dust bunnies are definitely not cool.
The Magic Smoke – Few people realize just how much magic goes into
creating Great Bass Tone. It isn’t something you normally need worry about.
Just have fun and leave all that to us. However – and this is very important –
if you ever release the Magic Smoke from your amplifier this is indeed a
Very Bad Thing, perhaps the worst thing you can do. If you see any smoke
(Magic or otherwise) coming out of your amplifier, immediately turn it off
and seek the services of a qualified magician…uhm, we mean…technician.
DO NOT continue to use the amplifier in this condition.
Learn More – If you’d like to learn more about your amplifier (or about our
company and its activities), we invite you to visit our website – www.edenelectronics.com. There you’ll find articles to help you better understand our
products and the technical stuff some people find so interesting. You’ll also
find our FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) file, which is updated regularly.
While you’re there, check out our on-line forum. There you can meet
hundreds of other Edenites who’ll be glad to help you with any questions
you may have about our gear. Not to brag too much, but we think our forum
is a Really Neat Thing, filled with Really Neat People. We’re pretty sure
you’ll think so, too.
Service – In the event of amplifier malfunction, or questions about your
unit’s operating features that aren’t answered in this manual or on our
website, you should contact your Dealer. Once you and your dealer have
determined it’s definitely a malfunction (and not an operator error) you must
call our Customer Service Department and obtain a Return Merchandise
Authorization (RMA). We WILL NOT accept any gear sent without an
RMA, so save the time and money by calling first, ok?
Please call the USM Customer Service Dept. at:
1-800-USSOUND (1-800-877-6863)
When you hear the voice prompt, Press 1 on your phone’s keypad.
Please ship Authorized Returns for service to:
Eden Electronics
P.O. Box 338
115 2nd Street
Montrose, Minnesota 55363
[email protected]
Eden Electronics
C/O U.S. Music Corp.
444 E. Courtland Rd.
Mundelein, IL 60060
(847) 949-0444
(847) 949-8444(fax)
Never Compromise
Note for those who care: This manual was written by David (Eden) Nordschow, Eden’s Chief
Propellerhead & Master of All Things Technical, and Lane Baldwin, Eden’s Special Projects Coordinator
(Many Other Functions). Any grammar errors are David and Lane’s fault, as are the attempts at humor.
Please don’t blame anyone else for any weirdness, as we were warned several times. Really.
My Favorite Settings
Setting 1____________________________________________________
Setting 2____________________________________________________
Setting 3____________________________________________________
Setting 4____________________________________________________
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