Rangemaster | HAMILTON AM1000 | Specifications | Rangemaster HAMILTON AM1000 Specifications

Rangemaster HAMILTON AM1000 Specifications
1. Getting ready/ Things you may need
1.1 Some addition Items
2. Starting the Installation
2.1 Picking the Grounding for the transmitter
2.2 Finding a place for the Transmitter
2.3 Using Ground Radials
3. Installing the Control Wire
4. Studio Connections and settings
5. Tuning and Setting Power
6. Trying to get good Range
Mount Bracket
7. Better radio reception
Kit AM1000BR
8. General Specifications
9. FCC information
10. Converting from agile module
to crystal
11. Certification
12. Using tuning computer
13. Legal stuff
RangeMaster Transmitters, Inc
213 Caraway lane
Cary, NC 27519
Select the
mount you
need for your
1 1/4” mast at
Radio Shack
or other antenna store.
To Studio
AM1000WR 100’
or 2 pair #22
shielded wire to
connect power and
1. Getting ready/ Things you may need
First of all make sure you have the items/tools need to complete the job. Along with the right tools you may need
the items shown below.
Please note that changes or modifications not expressly approved by RangeMaster for compliance
could void the user's authority to operate the equipment.
This unit is meant to be installed by someone who has some radio/technial background, a technician. If you don’t
feel qualified to install this unit yourself contact a local radio/TV shop. They may be able to help. Also if you have
a friend who is a Ham radio operator they may be able to help you.
The goal of a successful installation is to achieve ½ mile range if the unit is near ground level. Within this ½ mile
the signal should be clear and easy to hear. There may be some static mixed in, but the message being played
should be clear. Up to a mile range and further may be possible if you have a good site and have the unit higher.
Tools needed could be small flat and large flat screwdriver, wire cutter and stripper, mallet to pound ground rod in,
(A jack hammer can put a ground rod down in a couple of minutes if you can get one) hammer, tools to install mast
mount, (you may need a hammer drill and masonry bits to attach the mount to masonry) ,large Phillips screwdriver, Wrench set, Ratchet set, medium adjustable wrench, hacksaw, level, knife, torch for soldering, electrical type
solder. Drill may be needed depending on the situation as you install and mount the wires.
You may require other various hardware depending on your installation situation, mostly for routing and fastening
the ground and audio/power wires. Wire nuts, silicone for weather proofing, tie wraps (cable ties), electrical tape,
spare batteries, any test equipment you may need. The AM500 is generally the Same as the AM1000 except it may
not have the digital link feature installed.
It is a good idea if possible to have on hand cables that may be needed, cable adapters, ect.
Important!! A Very Large Part of the Time spent Installing the Transmitter Often will be running back and forth to the hardware store to
buy items that you find you need!!. Try to have everything you need
when you get there!!
1.1 Some addition Items
AM1000C AM1000A Trans- RangeMasmitter
RangeMasAM1000BR mount bracket ter
AM1000WR 100" wire
AM1000ANT 102" whip an- RangeMastenna
Ground Rod 4 foot
Radio Shack
Ground Rod 8 Foot
Lowes or
Ground Rod wire clamp
Lowes or
Home Depot
Ground wire
Lowes or
Home Depot
Wire mounting hardware
15-891 Eaves mount
15-893 Vent mount
15-517 Tripod mount
15-886 Wall mount
15-839 Chimney mount
15-889 roof mount
15-885 Wall mount
Lowes or
Home Depot
Radio Shack
Radio Shack
Radio Shack
Radio Shack
Radio Shack
Radio Shack
Radio Shack
15-863 10' 1 1/4 mast
Guy wire supplies
VOM meter
Audio Adapter
Power supply 16 VDC
Tuning tool
Complete instructions
Depends on discount Outdoor transmitter "C" version is crystal and "A" version is agile (set frequency with switches)
Mounts transmitter to 1 1/4 " mast
2 pair (one pair for power, the other for audio) #22
with shield. Wire should not be bigger then .25"
diameter, the weatherproof cable grip opening in
the box is .25" Can Use Cat 5 Wire Also
Standard Citizens band whip antenna, with 5/8 x
24 base. Available at Radio Shack (21-903) or any
CB shop.
$13 Radio Shack 15-530
$10 Used to ground electrical meters, 5/8 x 8" copper
Connect wire to Ground Rod (All connections must
be soldered with electrical type rosin core solder
using torch or tightly clamped and then weather$4 proofed.
Use #12-#10, the bigger wire (10) will give better
performance but will be harder to work with. 500ft
roll. Insulated is fine.
Think about how you are going to mount the
ground wire, it needs to be tied down (mounted to
the side of the building or pole) so it won't move
$15 (see instructions)
$16 Or any antenna store
10' long mast to mount the transmitter. There is
Radio Shack
$18 also a 5'
If needed
RangeMaster or Radio
If you don't have one get one from Radio Shack.
Needed for tuneup.
May be needed if you need to convert unbalanced
audio to balanced (see instructions) (Item# )5558485 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
Included with the AM1000.
Needed for tuneup
Manual with installation video
2. Starting the Installation
Talk over the project with the customer. Find out when you will have access to the building. Before you start be sure you
have a complete understanding with the customer:
Where the transmitter will go
Where the transmitter could go if the first choice will not work
Where the studio is to go
Other places the studio could go.
How the wire will be run
There is a possibility of installing without a wire, but this will not be talked about in this manual
While you are helping to pick these locations you need to look at how hard it will be to connect the wire between the
transmitter and studio. Keep in mind that when you leave you want to have the wire neatly placed and attached.
2.1 Picking the Grounding for the transmitter
Picking the ground to use can be the most important part of the job. The ground that you use will determine the range you
get. You may be able to get by using the ground rod that is already installed at the electrical meter/ phone pole/ or existing metal waterpipe or sewer connection, or you may need to add/install your own ground. You often need to pick the
transmitter location based on the ground you are going to use.
The AM ground in an AM system is critical, not only for system performance, but also often for lightning protection. The
goal is to provide a low resistance connection to the local Earth, less then 25 ohms if possible, less then 5 ohms is ideal.
The ground resistance in an area will be determined by your ground system and:
 Moisture content of soil
 Mineral content of soil
 Soil type
Soil contaminants
In general the higher the moisture content, the lower the resistivity will be.
What you are trying to do is make an electrical connection to the earth over a broad area. What that means is if you have
multiple rods keep them at least 6 feet apart, don’t concentrate on just a small area of dirt. For example don’t place 10
rods in a 2 foot circle. The more yard area you can cover with your system the better. A 20 foot diameter circle would
keep the rods about 6 feet apart. Keeping the system spread out allows the currents to flow more efficiently.
Working with different installation sites you have to be creative in making a good ground. You may find existing structures and/or items that can help you connect to the Earth. A buried tank, deep well casing, metal fence, Metal tube lawn
sprinkler system, all can be useful.
 Sand and gravel, even when wet can make a poor ground.
 Use corrosion resistant connectors when possible
 Solder (electrical type solder) all connections or be sure all connections are bright and shiny & then tightly clamped.
 You can use an Earth resistance meter to check the resistivity value of your system. Also see the troubleshooting
 If you are connecting to a utility water pipe, connect to it within 5 feet of where it comes in from the dirt. This keeps
someone else from coming in later and putting in non-conductive pipe, making your ground useless.
 Sodium bentonite can be used to enhance a ground.
 If you are using ground radials, they should be as long as your antenna is high to be effective.
Try to use the moistest dirt possible. For example if there is an air conditioning system, install a rod where the condensate
drips. Look to see where the rain comes off the roof to find moist areas. Look for any creeks or ponds. Running a long
wire to a creek or pond far away may not be effective, the ground system needs to be in the area of the antenna. Or you
can possibly install the transmitter in the area of any great natural ground.
Be sure all your connections are good. The wire should be bright and shiny (use steel wool if you need to) and then tightly clamped and/or soldered with torch and electrical solder and then weatherproofed with silicon
Generally the deeper your rod, the lower the
resistivity will be.
Bury any horizontal wires, the more ground/dirt
contact the better. Just an inch or two below the
surface will do. You can use a flat blade shovel
to create a “trench” that the wire can be laid into.
This works well with lawns. It is best to bury
your rods entirely if possible to avoid anyone
tripping over them, the lawn mower hitting
them, ect. Some will bury any metal that will not
corrode (tin cans, ect) in the area to help.
So look over the site, sometimes it will help to get pictures
before you get there. It can be possible to use the HVAC
“boxground” connection, for an “Earth” ground. This connect will connect to the electrical ground rod. Don’t try to
connect to this yourself unless you are qualified, there are
dangerous voltages inside of the HVAC panel that can kill
you. Call an electrician to make this connection. Sometimes there may be a water pipe or other metal pole leading into the ground you can use. You need to be creative
with grounding sometimes. I once used a deep well. I connected to the cast iron sleeve that went into the ground and
had great range. The iron sleeve was metal and went deep
into the ground. The more metal / dirt contact the better.
Note that the ground wires to the transmitter need to be
clamped down so they will not move. Do not connect to
gas lines or other unsafe objects in any way
The type of trench ground system above can work
well with sandy/dry soil.
2.2 Finding a place for the Transmitter
Transmitter location is also very important and will determine your range. You want the transmitter to generally be
the highest thing in the area if possible, but you still need to be able to get to it to make adjustments. The antenna
that screws into the top needs to be in the open air, not up against anything, especially metal. It is best if the antenna is above surrounding man made things. Natural things like trees should not be a problem, however don’t let
branches, leaves actually touch the antenna.
Do you see how the transmitter is mounted right next to the
house? It is not above all buildings, the antenna is not in the
open air, also look at the antenna, it is right up against the
siding!! NO!!
Even if this does work a little, range will be very low in the
direction of the house.
This transmitter needs to be moved up so that the antenna is
entirely above the top roof line, preferably at or near the peak
of the roof.
2.3 Using Ground Radials
Remember if you cannot get one location to work well you
may need to try another. We will talk in the troubleshooting
manual about how to determine if you have a good ground or
Be careful of power lines, stay away from them for safety
reasons. Be sure to follow safety laws and procedures when
climbing, do not mount the transmitter in a unsafe location.
We have referred to buried radials earlier. In general
for a radial to be effective the length should be
more then the height of the antenna tip is from the
ground. A radial is just a wire going from a center
ground rod outward.
Elevated radials
First of all be aware that elevated radials do increase
radiation, and may not be approved should you be
inspected by the FCC
Note the direction of increased signal. More then
one radial can be used.
Buried radials
There should be no problem with the FCC concerning buried radials, metal in the dirt does not radiate.
For more Information see the Legal section.
3. Installing the Control Wire
This is the wire that connects between the studio and transmitter. The kind of wire used is important. We recommend 2 pair, #22, shielded, UV protected, outdoor wire. Several hundred feet can be used with a voltage drop of 12 volts at the most.
Belden 8723 is the 2 pair #22 wire we recommend.
smaller, #24.
Cat 5 outdoor shielded wire can also be used, though it is
Connect the Shield drain (ground connection) at one end of the cable only, usually the transmitter end. There is a
terminal marked GND that can be used to ground the shield drain.
Good grounding is important for safety lightning protection , be sure to follow any national and/or local electrical
grounding codes.
Using Cat 5 shielded outdoor wire
4. Studio Connections and settings
with the
222 audio
This type of equipment should
have a balanced in/out connection, you will not need the audio
AM1000pr adapter.
Connections for
balanced audio
in. These connections should
be the same for
other audio processors.
From the audio
source, if the
connector is an
XLR connector
you would use
pins 2&3. Pin 1
is ground, don’t
use that. If the
connector for
the balanced
audio to the 222
is a 1/4” stereo
jack use the tip
and ring connections, again
don’t use the
ground (sleeve).
The goal here is to get the proper level to the input of the 222 and to the transmitter.
Input: Connect your audio source as explained. You should be able to see some indication
on the Peak limit and Pre - emphasis LED indicators as you adjust the input gain. Be sure
they are on. If you cannot get any indication with the input gain all the way up then remove
the cover (with the 222 unplugged) and set the (input range select) to the low position
(marked L on the board). You should be able to get an indication now, if not check to see if
you have an input signal.
Once you have the audio material showing on the indicators, then try to connect the transmitter. Depending on where the audio gain is on the transmitter unit you may or may not be
able to get good sound at this point. If you cannot get good sound in the entire range of the
222 output level control then check the transmitter audio gain, it should be 1/2 to fully
clockwise, it is preferable not to have it lower then 1/2 way. If you are way over driven try
turning the transmitter audio gain down a bit, you may need to turn it down to almost off if
you are getting to much drive from the 222. Adjust 222 output level and Transmitter level
for good sound from a test radio. Be careful about having a radio to close to the transmitter, it can be overloaded. Try to get the audio level as high as you can.
If you have a unbalanced input signal to the 222 (hot and ground, single wire with shield)
then connect the ground or shield of the input signal cable the the ground input, the (+) 222
input terminal goes to your center conductor. Connect the (-) input terminal to the ground.
Don't solve the gain problem by just turning down the input control, you will get good
sound but the 222 will not operate properly. You should be able to see the lights come on
as the music peaks if you have the limit and/or pre emphasis controls on.
Balanced audio is two twisted wires, the signal exists as a difference voltage between the
two wires. There is no ground. If there is a ground, it is there just for shielding.
Unbalanced audio is a signal with a ground reference, usually a center wire with a outer ground, like a RCA jack,
or coax cable. The center is the signal (hot) while the outer is the (ground) reference and shield.
Here is the 222
wire diagram
showing the input
in the unbalanced
This could be a
1/8 jack plugged
into a computer
sound card for
When using the
control cable
Ferrite if the hole
is to big try to
loop the cable
through twice.
The ferrite installs
on the audio
cable just outside
the transmitter
#555-8466 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
Part of the BLOX series, this compact adaptor combines the L/R line level audio signal from standard
consumer audio equipment, and converts it to an
XLR balanced mic level output. Additionally, a
variable attenuator allows control of the output volume level.
The above can be a useful item, stereo in, then the
item mixes your stereo to mono and sends it to an
XLR out. Be sure to have an XLR jack handy so
you can wire this to the 222
Rugged extruded housing
Dual RCA male input connections
XLR male output
Input impedance: 8Kohm
Output impedance: 580ohm
Max input level: +24dBm (3.3V)
Nominal attenuation: 24dB
The Inovonics audio processor is a special audio processor made especially for a AM transmitter. It has special
circuitry that enables it to drive the transmitter over 100% modulation without distortion, resulting in more range
and louder sound. This is called asymmetrical modulation, because this processor allows the audio to be nonsymmetrical
Am type audio processor and better ground are the two legal ways to increases the radio range.
Wire diagram for the transmitter system.
There are two terminal blocks, either can be
used. Not shown is the cable shield drain
connection, connect it to the GND terminal
on the terminal block in the transmitter.
Be careful not to connect the power or audio
to the (S+) or (S-) terminals, these are used
for another function (RS485 sync).
5. Tuning and setting Power
Coil Tune Block
Audio Gain
Be sure power is ON (LED
should be lit) Turn Audio Gain all
the way down (counter clockwise)
Be sure to turn it back up when
you are done. There are 3 test
hole pads on the unit (see diagram). Take a standard voltmeter
that is set to DC 5-20 volts and
plug it into the bottom and top test
hole pads. The black lead will go
to the test hole pad closest to the
mounting hole (Ground) (Top).
Next move the jumper shunt on
the “COIL TUNE” jumper block
one at a time to find the one that
gives the highest meter reading or
highest power amp voltage. Be
sure that only one jumper is used
at a time. Leave this jumper on
the highest meter reading and
proceed. If you find two areas of
the jumper block that give a peak
reading one of them may be an
harmonic. Chose the position
closest to the center of the jumper
block range. If you are not seeing
a good meter reading then rotate
the PWR control until you do, or
check your meter.
Now take the tuning tool and rotate “TUNE” to obtain a peak
reading of the meter. When
the meter peaks you are tuned. Be
sure to stay away from the antenna while tuning. If you
are to close to the antenna your
body will affect where it tunes.
Keep in mind that you need to see
a peak. The meter should rise and
fall as you are turning. If you just
turn it clockwise or counter clockwise all the way and the meter
goes up until the capacitor can’t
be turned anymore then it is not
tuned. Practice if you need to until
you get the feel of finding the
“peak” voltage. You will get the
most power with the least capaciPower Adjust
“Green Light” Power LED
Power Switch
tance of the tuning cap that you can
get to tune (counter clockwise). You
Setting the Power is easy, simply turn the PWR control until the LED goes
may find that 2 jumper positions will
green! See the next page for the manual method using the chart. Only set the
tune. If so use the one that
power with the audio all the way down! When the audio is up the light will
tunes with the “TUNE” in the most
counter clockwise or least capacitance flash mostly red.
position. This will
give you the best range and circuit
Note!! Do
not use
this manual method,
for reference only!! Simply rotate
control until you get
the “green
1.00 VOLT
AMPS ACTUAL CURThe manual method involves simply involves
taking 2 voltage readings
and referring to the
power chart in this manual. Adjust the power pot
until you are at the legal
power level. Turn
the audio pot all the way
down. Take your voltage
reading, take this reading
with the meter
leads in the same position as when you were
tuning. Now place your
Black (negative) test
lead in the bottom test
hole pad & your Red
(Positive) test lead in the
middle test hole pad.
This will measure your
Your power should not
exceed 100 milliwatts
or .1 Watt to comply
with FCC rules (Part 15).
See the conversion table
supplied for different
combinations of
Voltage and Current that
equal 100 milliwatts. The
“Power Adjust” works
just like a volume
control. Clockwise is
more power and counter
clockwise is less. Again
with the AM1000T
“Green light” simply
adjust Power level control until the LED is
6. Trying to get good Range
See the website for more information.
The transmitter should sound as loud as others on the dial, if it doesn’t there is a problem. It may be an audio
impedance mismatch, or the level may need to be turned up. If the audio level isn’t high enough you won’t get
good range, audio is a gate on the power, keep your audio turned up as high as you can.
We have found the most common cause of low range is the audio setup, even more common then grounding
problems. Not enough audio power (volume) and/or an impedance mismatch. If you are using an 8 ohm (low
impedance) output which would be a headphone or speaker output you may need to find a way to use a line level
output. An impedance mismatch will lower the audio level and reduce the fidelity, and may cause distortion. If
you have a line out type source it needs to go to the high impedance jack on your audio adapter. In either case if
you can’t get the audio loud enough so it is as loud as other stations in your area without distortion then there is a
problem in the audio chain.
To get more Range:
Try to locate the transmitter near something that will reradiate the RF energy such as high tension power lines.
The signal will tend to follow lakes and rivers. Use as high a audio level as you can. Get the unit as high
as you can but not so high you can’t safely get to it to tune it.
Most of the time low range is a problem with the ground. (see the troubleshooting manual) if you can remove your
ground and not see a difference in the tune voltage or range then the ground is likely the problem. If when you are
tuning the “Cap Tune” you don’t see much movement of the meter, then you probably have a poor ground.
Placement of the Transmitter is important, keep it away from metal and other objects.
One way to look at it is that the antenna is the (plus) of the battery and the ground is the (negative) of the battery.
To get good radio current flow (from the antenna to the ground) you need the antenna to be placed so that the radio
waves can flow out from it without being blocked. And the ground needs to have low resistance.
If when you are standing at the antenna you have a high wall to the North for example, you probably will not get
good range in that direction. Distant objects will have little effect though if they are higher, if the transmitter was
on a one story house and there was a two story house 200 meters away, then the signal would not be affected
If there is a lot of electrical noise in the area you may have range problems. You can listen to a test radio and usually tell how quiet the band is, listen for a quiet “hiss”. If you hear nasty hum, sparking, ect , then that is a indication of high noise.
It will be harder to get good range in metro city areas, as they are usually noisy with radio interference.
Watch out for high power microwaves, they can blank out the AM dial. If there is a radar dish nearby you can forget good AM radio reception.
See trouble shooting manual for more troubleshooting information!
7. Better radio reception
One of the toughest places to get radio reception is inside an office building. Construction materials like bricks and
metal, and noise from computers and other electronics can all combine to make radio reception almost impossible
for you. Besides the construction of the building, you sometimes have to account for your location in a building as
well. I used to work at a corner desk in a windowless room on the 14th floor of a Manhattan office building. We
were allowed to listen to music while we worked, but we quickly found that a radio was useless. The simplest way
to improve radio reception is to put a radio in a window. If you can't do that, however, you still have several options. You can simply wrap a few turns of wire around a radio, and then run the wire to a window. Another option
is to purchase one of the many AM Band amplifiers available, see Amazon.com. One is the AM1000 Antenna.
Radio Noise Problems & Possible Solutions
It is best to eliminate the interference at its source. Here’s a list
of possible solutions:
-The most obvious is to turn off the offending device.
-Try a battery operated radio to see if the interference is coming in
from the AC 120v line or through the air or both.
-Turn off the circuit breakers to see if the noise stops. If it does
then you know it is something in your house. Turn off one circuit
at a time to isolate where it is coming from.
-Use a battery operated radio as a direction finder. Turn the radio
until the loudest noise is heard and the front and back of the radio
will point to the noise origin.
-Carry a radio around the neighborhood and see if you can find the
origin of the noise. Ask other neighbors if they have problems
(with radio noise obviously).
-If a power pole is suspected, call the utility company and they will
check the area and possibly wash the insulators. Dirty power pole
insulators are sometimes a cause of difficult-to-find radio
-If you have a hum in your receiver from AC line noise sometimes
grounding can reduce the hum greatly. Unfortunately most
receivers except stereo receivers do not have a ground connection.
Finding a good earth ground may also be difficult.
Radio Noise Problems & Possible Solutions
Annoying buzzes are many times transmitted through an AM radio.
Here is a check-off list of the most likely causes:
-Dimmer switch.
-Fluorescent light
-”Touch lamp” type light fixture (even when turned off)
-Automatic on and off night lights.
-Outdoor yard lights which come on automatically.
-Electronic bug and pest controllers.
-A light bulb that is about to burn out.
-A faulty electrical switch of any kind.
-A nearby television set.
-A store that has a fluorescent light or a public recreation room that has
fluorescent lights located near you.
-Blinking bulbs of all kinds such as Christmas tree lights.
-If you live in an apartment a neighbor’s dimmer switch could be the
-Scanners of all types.
-Dirty insulators on a nearby power pole allowing arcing.
-Electric blanket.
-Smoke detectors that run from AC current (battery operated is OK).
8. General Specifications
We stock crystals 1590Khz 1600Khz 1610Khz 1620Khz 1630Khz 1640Khz 1650Khz 1660Khz
1670Khz 1680Khz 1690Khz 1700Khz but can order other channels.
Am1000C is the crystal controlled model Am1000A is the frequency agile model (set channel with
switches, no crystal needed)
Outdoor Box Size
4.65" x 3.64" x 8.65" High (11" including ant. mount)
Mount holes are at 8.03" x 3.23" centers (#10 screw) Outdoor unit weight 2.85lb
Stainless Antenna .75lb Standard 102" CB whip 3/8 x 24 base
Allow 1lb for 2 mounting bracket bars.
Operating range -40 - +60 C
Outdoor box is .25" thick fiberglass construction
Stability Am1000C +/- 2 Hz Am1000A +/- 10 Hz
12-18 VDC at .1 AMP
Audio Sensitivity Adjustable from -10db to 0 Gain
9. FCC information
See the website for current FCC information
Generally the Spirit of the Part 15 law seems to be not to cause interference to a licensed station. We
here at RangeMaster follow FCC law. Of course you should follow FCC law and fully cooperate with
the FCC. Here is subpart 15.219:
”Section 15.219 Operation in the band 510 - 1705 kHz.
(a) The total input power to the final radio frequency stage (exclusive of filament or heaterpower)
shall not exceed 100 milliwatts.
(b) The total length of the transmission line, antenna and ground lead (if used) shall not exceed
(c) All emissions below 510 kHz or above 1705 kHz shall be attenuated at least 20 dB below the level of the unmodulated carrier. Determination of compliance with the 20 dB attenuation specification may be based on measurements at the intentional radiator's antenna output terminal unless the
intentional radiator uses a permanently attached antenna, in which case compliance shall be
demonstrated by measuring the radiated emissions.”
Another legal issue is station identification. Here is the rule on that issue : (Title47 Sec. 73.3550) Users of non licensed, low-power devices operating under part 15 of this chapter may use whatever identification is currently desired, so long as propriety is observed and no confusion results with a station
for which the FCC issues a license. Please note that FCC regulations do not allow an antenna in excess on 3 meters in length, currently any ground wire can be considered part of this antenna length
A typical encounter with the FCC would entail just a phone call from them asking for your certification number. Most of the time (as long as you are using a certified transmitter) they won’t even come
by to inspect your installation. You don’t want to be using an uncertified transmitter (especially a kit)
if you get a call from the FCC. It is a good idea to broadcast your contact information at least hourly
so that in case the FCC wants to contact you they can easily. Also you can leave a package at the
transmitter site where it can easily be seen containing the certification information, in case the FCC
should visit when no one is present.
When you go on the air with a part 15 do not contact the FCC to let them know of your operation, they
don’t want you to. They have no way to deal with the information. They will find you if they need to.
We have had many contacts through the years with the FCC, if you get a visit just be honest and open,
I have found they are easy to get along with and pleasant unless they feel that you are trying to pull
some sort of trick on them. Like I said before most of the time a site visit shouldn’t be necessary, but
if it is be open and honest, if there is problem honestly present your side. If they want you to change
something to bring you into compliance they will give you a paper describing what needs to be done
and then return in 30 – 60 days to check to see if the change has been done. We have never heard of
one of our transmitters being shut down because of improper installation, the agent has always given
the customer time to fix any issue and has allowed them to continue to operate.
Please be aware that even if your equipment is properly installed and passes an FCC inspection, you
might still be the subject of a complaint from a nearby broadcast station or member of the general
public. Inappropriate or frivolous complaints are filed with the FCC regularly.
RangeMaster may offer advice on how to install a transmitter, but the customer is responsible for rule
The FCC is an independent governmental agency, answerable only to congress, we cannot guarantee
and/or we cannot be held responsible for what the FCC may do or decide in any particular situation.
The 3-meter combined length specified in Section 15.219(b) refers to the length of all radiating elements. Attaching the ground lead to an unshielded radiating object, or the addition of a ground
screen, will cause the effective length of radiating elements to exceed 3 meters, in violation of Section 15.219(b).
10. Converting from agile module to crystal
Reverting back to the crystal First remove the AM1000F module, remove the two nylon screws and
gently rock the AM1000F to remove it from the socket. You can leave the two nylon standoffs if you want or
they can be removed from the bottom. Install the CD4001 U8 chip being careful to place the notched end
down as shown. Be sure all pins are in the socket. Now you can install the crystal in the Y1 socket area. In
later models you also need to install U10 CD4093.
10a Module—Crystal
When changing the Module replace as shown being careful of
the pin one polarity. To change from crystal to module remove CD4001 CD4093 and install module as shown. It may
be necessary to add a jumper from to the module pin 4 to the
CD 4093 pin 5 if your board is not Module ready.
To change from Module to crystal remove Module, add
CD4001 and CD4093 as shown and install crystal. Do not
install crystal and module at the same time.
11. Certification
12. Using tuning computer
When transmitter is turned on, the computer will start in Power Set mode if there is a shunt in J13 (Power is set
When you are tuning you will get better readings with the power all the way down (Power Adjust counter clockwise). Also it will help if the Cap Tune (10 turn device) is about in the middle of it’s range (5 turns in from either
way). Please note the tuning function is an alternative to using a meter.
To go to the Coil Tune program (first tuning step) turn transmitter on with shunt in J13, wait 1-2 seconds, remove
J13 shunt, then replace shunt back into J13.
Please note you can preferably use a voltmeter.
To use the Coil Tune program
simply move the shunt on the
Coil Tune jumper block, and
then remove J13, if the voltage
is higher the LED will be green,
if lower the LED will be red.
Then immediately replace J13
shunt. At this point you can
move the Coil Tune shunt if
you wish again and take another
reading with J13. If the LED
goes blank (It is starting Cap
Tune program) just turn power
off/on with J13 in, then move
J13 out/in.
Coil Tune
Cap Tune
Be sure to have your hands
away from antenna and coil
areas when you remove J13 to
take a reading, otherwise you
may get confusing readings.
The goal in tuning is to peak the
voltage, or to arrive at the peak
possible voltage using the Coil
Tune shunt and tuning tool on
the Cap tune.
To go to the Cap Tune program just leave the shunt in J13 for 15 seconds, the LED will turn off. Take the shunt off
j13 (and then replace shunt onto J13) and you are in the Cap Tune program.
To find the peak voltage using this program you need to get used to working with the program. As the voltage is
steady or going up the LED will remain green, it will however tell you when the voltage is going down, and how
fast. Turning the Cap Tune more quickly will give more red blinks as the voltage goes down.
When the voltage is dropping quickly the LED will be solid red, when the voltage is dropping slowly the LED will
tend to blink red. Of course as the voltage is going up (which is what you want) the LED will remain green.
So rotate the Cap Tune left or right, which ever way the LED stays green, until it starts to go red. Then rotate Cap
Tune the other way until the LED blinks red again. You should find as you rotate both directions that you can turn
about one full turn either way or so before the LED starts to blink red, leave the Cap Tune in the middle of the
green range and you are tuned!
Just keep in mind the LED blinks/goes red as the voltage is going down, and the goal is to keep the voltage going
up until you find a peak.
An Alternative to using this program is to use the other Red LED (inside the black heatsink) as an indicator. Turn
the power down until you can just barely see the LED light, then you should be able to use this LED as an Voltage
indicator, the LED will get brighter as the voltage goes up. This will only work if the LED is dim.
You may find using a voltmeter quicker, but if you don’t have a voltmeter handy this program will do the job.
Once you have tuned turn the transmitter off, then back on with a shunt in J13. This will put the computer in Power
Set mode.
Simply rotate the Power Adjust to light the LED green for .1 watt legal power level.
Example tuning:
Coil Tune shunt is on position 3
Coil Tune program running (see earlier instructions)
Move Coil Tune shunt to position 4
Remove J13, LED is green (voltage is going up)
Replace J13
Move Coil Tune shunt to position 5
Remove J13, LED is green (voltage is going up)
Replace J13
Move Coil Tune shunt to position 6
Remove J13, LED is red (voltage is going down)
Replace J13
Move Coil Tune shunt to position 5
Remove J13, LED is green (voltage is going up)
Replace J13
Move Coil Tune shunt to position 4
Remove J13, LED is red (voltage is going down)
Replace J13
Move Coil Tune shunt to position 5
Remove J13, LED is green (voltage is going up)
Replace J13
Coil Tune position 5 has the highest voltage.
Leave the shunt in J13 for 15 seconds (LED blanks, then remove J13) to move to Cap Tune program where you
continue peaking the voltage with the Cap Tune control. When the voltage goes down the LED will go red, when
the voltage goes down fast the LED will be solid red, when falling slowly the LED will be blinking RED.
Please note that changes or modifications not expressly approved by RangeMaster for compliance
could void the user's authority to operate the equipment.
This unit is meant to be installed by someone who has some radio/technical background, a technician.
If you don’t feel qualified to install this unit yourself contact a local radio/TV shop. They may be able
to help. Also if you have a friend who is a Ham radio operator they may be able to help you.
Do not use any antenna except the whip antenna recommended (radio shack 21-903), a heavier or
stiffer antenna can cause premature failure of the supporting structure.
Please be aware that even if your equipment is properly installed and passes an FCC inspection, you
might still be the subject of a complaint from a nearby broadcast station or member of the general
public. Inappropriate or frivolous complaints are filed with the FCC regularly. RangeMaster may offer
advice on how to install a transmitter, but the customer is responsible for rule compliance.
The customer is responsible to be sure the installation is properly maintained and should have the assembly inspected monthly by a competent technician, or more often if warranted, for example in
windy areas the box should be checked for signs of mechanical stress/failure. Any part of the assembly that is not in proper order should be corrected immediately. The equipment does contain surge
protection, but this circuitry will only operate if/when the equipment has been properly grounded.
This protection circuitry will not help in the event of a large nearby surge or strike.
Limitation of Warranty:
The Warranty stated above is the only warranty applicable to this product. All other warranties, express or implied (including all implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose) are hereby disclaimed. No verbal or written information given by Rangemaster Transmitters,
Inc. its agents, or employees, shall create a guarantee or in any way increases the scope of this warranty.
Repair or Replacement as provided under the warranty is the exclusive remedy of the customer/
installer. This product is intended to be installed and maintained by a competent radio technician.
Rangemaster Transmitters, Inc. shall not be liable for incidental or consequential damages resulting
from the use of this product or arising out of any breach of any express or implied warranty on this
product. this disclaimer of warranties and limited warranty on this product are governed by the state
of North Carolina, except to the extent prohibited by applicable law, any implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose on this product is limited to the applicable warranty
period set forth above.
The Installers listed on the website are independent from RangeMaster, Inc. , we make no guarantees
concerning the suitability or performance of a particular Installer. We will however remove an installer from the website if we receive an unresolved complaint.
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