Custom Works Enforcer GSX

Custom Works Enforcer GSX
READING...
REQUIRED READING
...UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL!
Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing the ENFORCER GSX2
GSX2! Within this kit you will find a
race winning car with over 21 years worth of CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order for you
to realize this race car’s winning potential it is important to follow the written text along with the
pictures included. The steps required to build this car are very easy, as long as you read before you
build.
The instructional format for building this car is to open each bag in alphabetical order. Each bag of
parts will be broken down into “Steps” in the manual. All parts and hardware needed to complete all
steps for each separate bag, will be found in each individual bag. There is no need to steal screws
from other bags. In the rare event you need to look in a different bag for a certain part, it will be
noted clearly.
Considering the various dirt or clay surfaces that Nitro Dirt Oval cars are raced on today, the
Enforcer GSX2 has been designed to be competitive on high bite and well groomed clay tracks with
rubber or foam racing tires. The instructions will build the kit using the most verastale set-up Custom
Works has found in testing on different types of tracks, however there are various other suspension
configurations available to you that you may find more suitable for your local track. For updates and
more proven set-ups login to CustomWorksRC.com.
All hardware (screws, washers, nuts, etc…) are referred to by size and type in the instructions. To
help clarify which screw or nut the instruction is calling for refer to the HARDWARE REFERENCE
supplement. The size of the screw or nut should match the “shadow” of the same piece very closely.
Screw ID’s are: FH
FH=Flat Head BH
BH=Button Head SH
SH=Socket Head SS
SS=Set Screw
BUILDING TIPS:
-Using some type of thread locking fluid is suggested for all parts where metal screws thread into other
metal parts. We suggest using a lite setting strength thread lock for the reason you may want to take
the screw out one day. Remember it only takes a very small amount to secure the screw.
-Do NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts. The fast rotation speed can easily melt and
strip plastic parts or cross-thread into the aluminum parts.
-Lightly sand the edges of graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper to avoid splinters. Run a
thin bead of Super Glue around the edges to give pieces greater durability.
SUGGESTED TOOLS
400 Grit Sandpaper
Hobby Scissors
Small Needle Nose Pliers
Wire Cutters
X-Acto Knife
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Blue Loctite
3/16" Wrench
Bag A Front Suspension
-Parts for
Step#1
1:1
3255
Qty 2
Front Susp Arms
3332
Qty 1
1.85” Front Susp Brace
1255
Qty 2
Spacer
3257
Qty 2
Front Susp Mount
4240
Qty 2
Front Inner Susp Pin
1:1
-Parts for
Step#2
1201
Qty 1
Enforcer GS Chassis
1242
Qty 1
Front Shock Tower
STEP #1
3228
Qty1
Long Body Post
3228
Qty 1
Post Collar
-1255 Spacer goes between the Susp
Arm and the 3257 Mount
5230 Qty 24
E-Clip
1:1
1:1
5253
Qty 4
4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw
3228
Qty 1
Set Screw
1:1
5263
Qty 4
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
3229
Qty 1
8-32 x 1/2 FH Screw
STEP #2
SET SCREW
1242
1201
3257
5230
5253
3255
3332
Screw Mounting
Locations for 3257
Suspension Mounts.
4240
- Insert 4240 Inner Pin thru 3332 Susp Brace and thru the
first leg of 3253 Susp Arm. The 1255 Spacer will go
between the Susp Arm and the 3257 Susp Mount.
- Snap 5230 E-Clips to 4240 Susp Pin.
- Arms should pivot freely on the mounts.
Bag B
- Do NOT overtighten the screws
5263
into the mount!
3229
- Fasten the 1242 tower to the suspension assembly. THE
REMAINING HOLES WILL BE COMPLETED IN “Bag B”!
- Fasten the suspension assembly and the 3228 Body Post
to the 1201 Chassis.
Steering Components
-Parts for
Step#1
5225
Qty 4
2” Titanium Turnbuckle
1:1
5235
Ball Cup
Qty 6
1:1
5213
Qty 2
Ball End
5213
Qty 2
Pivot Ball
1:1
-Parts for
Step#2
3202
Qty 2
Steering Block L&R
7209
Qty 2
Ball Stud King Pin
7209
Qty 4
Spacer
7200
Front Axle
Qty 2
5004 Qty 2
6-20 Set Screw
1:1
3203 Qty 2 (Left Shown)
25 Deg Castor Block
1255
Qty 2
Spacer
4241
Qty 2
Front Outer Susp Pin
1:1
-Parts for
Step#3
3304 Qty 1
Steering Slide
STEP #1
5213
PIVOT BALL
5213
1:1
5230 Bag A
E-Clip
3304
Qty 1
Steering Rack
8122 Qty 4
Ball Stud
5262
Qty 2
4-40 x 1/4 FH Screw
5257
Qty 2
4-40 x 3/4 BH Screw
5217 Qty 4
4-40 Lock Nut
- Make (2) of each turnbuckle shown below, total of 4 linkages.
- NOTE: Turnbuckle has RIGHT
- The linkages with ball cups on each end will be STEERING LINKS. and LEFT threads!
- The linkages with a pivot ball on one end will be CAMBER LINKS.
5225
5235
5235
5225
5235
STEP #2
7209
3205
- Insert the 7200 Axle into the
3202 Steering Arm so the
holes are in-line.
-Align the Steering Arm into
the 3205 Castor Block and
press the 7209 Ball Stud
Kingpin thru the assembly
as shown.
STEP #3
3304
-8122 MOUNTS IN
2ND HOLE IN ON
BOTH SIDES.
8122
8122
8122
3304
1255
1255
5217 NUT ON
5257 SCREW
5004
5230
3202
5262
8122
1255
3202
7200
5217 NUT ON
5257 SCREW
- Thread the 8122 Ball Stud into the front face of 3304
Steering Slide. Do the same to the 3202 Steering Arm using
(2) 1255 Spacers as shown.
5230 FOR
- Insert the Steering Slide into the 3304 Steering Rack,
7209 PIN
mount the rack to the chassis using 5262 Screws.
- Mount the linkages from Step #1 by snapping the Ball Cups
onto the Ball Studs.
- Secure the Ball Ends on the Camber Links to the back of the
Susp Mounts by using 5257 Screw through the upper hole
-Mount the Castor Block to the Susp Arm by
on the front of the Shock Tower like in Bag A/Step#2. The
inserting the 4241 Susp Pin thru the Susp Arm
length of the thread will come thru the Susp Mount, slide
and Castor Block.
the Ball End on the thread and secure with 5217 Nut.
-Retain the Susp Pin by attaching 5230 E-Clips to - Attach the steering links by snapping the ball cups on the
ball ends.
each end.
7209
Spacer
4241
5230
Bag C
Rear Suspension
1:1
-Parts for
Step#1
1273 Qty 1
Rear Bulkhead
1284
Qty 2
Med Shock Ear
3305
Qty 1
Tail Tank Tray
5255
Qty 4
4-40 x 5/8 BH Screw
1:1
5263
Qty 4
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
1:1
5253
Qty 2
4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw
5217 Qty 4
4-40 Lock Nut
1:1
-Parts for
Step#2
3240
Qty 2
Rear Susp Arm
2222
Qty 2
1-3 Deg Toe Block
4234
Qty 2
Rear Inner Susp Pin
STEP #1
1:1
5264
Qty 6
4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw
STEP #2
1284
-Attach the 3254 Susp
Arm to the 2222 Toe
Block using the 4234
Susp Pin. Retain the pin
with 5230 E-Clips.
NT
FRO
-Attach the 1284 Long Shock Ears to
the 1273 Bulk to the side facing away
in the diagram.
-Attach the 3305 Tail Tank Tray as
shown in the diagram.
5217
1284
5255
-Make a RIGHT
and LEFT
5254
assembly!
2222
5230
5217
5253
1273
NT
RO
5255
4234
-Fasten the LEFT assembly to
the INNER most set of holes.
-Fasten the RIGHT assembly to
5254 the OUTER most set of holes.
5263 - Mount the Susp Tower assembly using 5263 Screws.
3240
F
3305
5230 Bag A
E-Clip
-LEFT Side
Assembly
NOTE: Mount the Toe Blocks to the
chassis in the 3 deg position. The
screw will pass thru the hole
closest to the 3 machined in the
part. The numbers on the part
should be to the rear of the car.
Bag D Rear Suspension
1:1
-Parts for
Step#1
3241
Qty 2
Bearing Carrier
1226
Qty 4
Ball Bearing
1:1
4235
Qty 2
Rear Outer Susp Pin
1255
Qty 10
Spacer
1:1
1:1
-Parts for
STEP#2
7211
Qty 2
CVD Coupling
-Parts for
STEP#3
5230 Bag A
E-Clip
7215
Qty 1
Short Dogbone
7213
Qty 1
Long Dogbone
7216
Qty 2
Rear CVD Axle
7211 Qty 2
Rear CVD Pin
5223
Qty 1
1 3/4” TI Turnbuckle
7211
Qty 2
CVD Set Screw
1:1
5225
Qty 1
2” TI T- Buckle
STEP #1
1:1
5235
Ball Cup
1:1
8122
Qty 4
Ball Stud
7047
Qty 8
Spacer
STEP #2
3241
5230
Qty 4
5217 Qty 2
4-40 Lock Nut
7203 Qty 2
Roll Pin
7211
(Pin)
1255
1226
7213 SHORT (LEFT)
7215 LONG (RIGHT)
7216
XXXX Qty 4
Ball Stud
EA
7211
(Coupling)
SE
TE
GR
- Apply grease to the areas shown.
- Apply thread-lock (Loctite) to the set screw.
- Align the holes as shown so that the
7211 CVD Pin can pass thru the Bone,
Axle, and Coupling. Pin should be evenly
7211
(Set Screw)
spaced in the DogBone.
-Tighten the Set Screw by angling the Bone
and Axle so the set-screw is able to be tightened.
CTI
- Press 1226 Ball Bearings into the 3241 Bearing Carrier.
- Attach the Bearing Carrier to the Susp Arm using 4235
Susp Pin with (2) 1255 Spacers on each side of the
Bearing Carrier.
- NOTE: The Suspension Pin will pass thru the UPPER
hole in the Bearing Carrier.
- Retain the Susp Pin using 5230 E-Clips.
LO
4235
STEP #3
- Assemble the camber links by threading
the 5235 Ball Cup on each end. Attach by
snapping the Ball Cups onto the Ball
Studs. NOTE: The LONGER link goes on
the RIGHT REAR suspension component.
- Attach the 8122 Ball
Stud to the Rear
Bulkhead as shown
using a 5217 Lock Nut.
- Slide the thick shim packaged
with the CVD parts onto the CVD
Axle, Insert the CVD assembly by
sliding the axle thru the bearings.
5217
5226
7213 LONG (RIGHT)
8122
- Slide a 1255 Spacer onto
the Ball Stud and thread
into the Bearing Carrier in
the outer most hole.
- Slide (4) 7047
Shims onto the
axle and retain
using the 7203
Roll Pin. Pin should
be evenly spaced
in Axle.
7203
7215
SHORT (LEFT)
1255
7047
8122
5225
Bag E
Diff Assembly
1:1
-Parts for
Step#1
4403
Qty 1
Right Outdrive
4404
Qty 2
Diff Ring
4205
Qty 2
Thrust Washer
4361
Qty 1
Diff Bolt Cover
1:1
4204 Qty 6
Thrust Balls
4361
Qty 1
Diff Bolt
1:1
1229
Qty 2
5/32 x 5/16 Bearing
-Parts for
Step#2
4402 Qty 1
Left Outdrive
4361
4362
Qty 1
Diff Spring
4407
Qty 1
Diff Gear
STEP #1
4205
BL
A
GR CK
EA
SE
4403
4404
DIFF
LUBE
1229
- Slide a 4205 Thrust Washer onto the Diff Bolt.
- Apply a thick layer of Black Grease to the Thrust
Washer, press (6) 4204 Thrust Balls into the Black
Grease.
- Slide the other Thrust Washer on the Diff Bolt and
insert it into the 4403 Right Outdrive.
- Press (1) 1229 Bearing into the Outdrive.
- Put (1) 4404 Diff Ring on the Outdrive, apply Diff Lube
as shown.
Bag F
4361
Qty 1
Diff T- Nut
STEP #2
CUSTOM-TIP!!!
-Using 400 Grit Sandpaper in a“Figure 8”
pattern, it is best to sand the surfaces
4204
of both the 4404 Diff Ring and 4205
Thrust Washers. The textured
surface results in a smoother and
longer lasting diff.
4361
-Parts for
Step#1
4357
Qty 12
Diff Balls
F
DIF BE
LU
4403
1229
4404
4357
4407
4402
- Press a small amount of Diff Grease
into each of the small holes in the
4407 Diff Gear.
4362
- Press (1) 1229 Bearing and the (12)
4361
4357 Diff Balls into the Diff Gear.
- Put (1) 4404 Diff Ring onto the 4403 Right Outdrive, apply
Diff Grease as shown.
- Install the 4362 Diff Spring and 4361 T-nut into the 4402
Left Outdrive.
- Carefully slide the diff assembly together so the Diff Bolt
passes thru the entire assembly and threads into the T-nut.
-Screw the Diff Bolt into the T-nut until you feel the Diff
Spring fully compress. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!
- Back the Diff Bolt off EXACTLY 1/8 of a turn. Diff motion
should be smooth and the Outdrives will turn in opposite
directions. Insert Diff Bolt Cover as you did the T-Nut.
Transmission Casing
1:1
LEFT
1:1
RIGHT
4401
Qty 1
Transmission Halfs
4405
Qty1
Idler Gear
4370
Qty 6
Thick Spacer
1226
Qty 4
3/16 x 3/8 Bearing
1:1
-Parts for
Step#2
1230
Qty 2
3/8 x 5/8 Bearing
- Press the (2) 1230 Bearings STEP
and (4) 1226 Bearings into
each 4401 Transmission Half.
- Slide (1) 4370 Thick Washer
on each side of the 4368 Top
Drive Shaft.
- Insert the Diff Assembly,
Top Drive Shaft, and 4405 Idler
Gear into the RIGHT Trans
Half.
5273
- Align the LEFT Trans Half over
the gears and secure it to the
RIGHT Trans Half with (5) 5273
Screws.
4368
Qty 1
Top Drive Shaft
5273
Qty 5
4-40 x 3/8 SH Screw
4406
Qty 1
Top Shaft Roll Pin
#1
STEP #2
1226
4406
4370
4370
4368
4405
1226
1230
1230
4401
LEFT
- Diff Screw should be on the
RIGHT side of the Trans!
4401
RIGHT
- Press the 4406 Roll
Pin into the hole in
the Top Drive Shaft.
Bag G Spur Gear Assembly
-Parts for
Bag G
1:1
4424
Qty 1
Disc Brake Adapter
4423
Brake Disc
Qty 1
2228
Qty 1
Slipper Eliminator
STEP #1
4966
Qty 1
66T 32P Spur Gear
2228
5252
4423
2228
CONED SIDE
OF SPUR GEAR
5252
Qty 2
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
2228 Qty 1
Spacer
5245 Qty 1
5-40 Locknut
- First slide the 4424 Disc Brake Adapter onto the
2228 Slipper Eliminator so the grooves are aligned.
- Press the 4423 Brake Disc onto the 4424 Brake
Adapter and slide the entire assembly onto the
Top Drive Shaft so that the Roll Pin keys into the
grooves.
- Secure the assembly to the Top Shaft with the
2228 Spacer and the 5245 Locknut. Do NOT
overtighten the nut on the Top Shaft!
- Mount the 4966 Spur Gear so the flat side faces
AWAY from the transmission. Secure using (2)
5252 Screws.
4966
4424
1:1
5245
FLAT SIDE OF
SPUR GEAR
Bag H Brake Assembly
-Parts for
Bag H
1:1
4421 Qty 1
Brake Shoe
4420
Qty 1
Brake Bracket
STEP #1
4422
4422
Brake Cam
Qty 1
4425
Clip
4421
4420
5252
Qty 2
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
Qty 1
- Slide the 4421 Brake Shoe onto the 4420
- Fir
Brake Bracket with both crescent shape cutouts facing the same direction.
- Install the Brake Bracket onto the transmission so that the Brake Disc is between the
Bracket and Shoe.
- Secure the Bracket using 5252 Screw.
-Slide the 4422 Brake Cam thru the small
holes in the Brake Bracket. The lever of the
Brake Cam should be facing the same
direction as the pictures shown.
-Secure the Brake Cam using 4425 Clip.
5252
1:1
4425
Transmission Casing
Bag I
1:1
-Parts for
Bag I
3309
Qty 1
Transmission Brace
3229
Qty 1
Post Collar
1202
Qty 1
Trans Spacer
3265
Qty 1
Trans Spacer
1:1
3229
Qty1
Short Body Post
3229
Qty 1
Set Screw
5253
3229
3309
3265
5268
1202
5264
5264
Qty 4
4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw
3229
Qty 1
8-32 x 1/2 FH Screw
1:1
5253
Qty 4
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
- Attach 3229 Body Post to 3309 Trans Brace
using 3229 Screw. Slide 3201 Post Collar onto
the Body Post and secure using 3229 Set Screw.
- Secure the Trans to the Chassis using (2) 5253
Screws thru the 3265 Trans Support and (4)
5264 Screws thru the 1202 Trans Spacer as
shown.
- Attach the Trans Brace to the Trans and Rear
Bulkhead using 5253 Screws.
- NOTE: Align the dogbone shafts into the
outdrives of Trans as you mount the trans!
5268
Qty 2
4-40 x 1” FH Screw
1:1
Shock Assembly
Shock
Bag Bag
J
-Parts for
Step#1
1:1
M
1425
Qty 2
Med Shock Body
1426
Qty 2
Short Shock Body
1430
Qty2
Short Shock Shaft
1429
Qty2
Med Shock Shaft
1434 Qty4
Shaft Guide
-Parts for
Step#2
1431 Qty4
Threaded Cap
1432 Qty4
Eyelet Cap
1437
Qty 4
Firm Bladder (BLACK)
1250 Qty 8
O- Ring
1:1
1435
Qty 6
Reatining Clip
5228
Qty4
Short Ball End
1436 Qty4
Piston
5230 Qty 10
E-Clip
5228
Qty4
Pivot Ball
-Parts for
Step#3
1433 Qty4
Spring Collar
STEP #1
1488 Qty4
Spring
1407
Qty4
Spring Bucket
5230
1408 Qty4
Mount Ball
BUILD 2 SHORT & 2 MED
LENGTH SHOCKS!
- USE #1429 SHAFT WITH
#1425 BODY.
- USE #1430 SHAFT WITH
#1426 BODY .
5277
Qty 4
4-40 x 7/8 SH Screw
5274
Qty 4
4-40 x 1/2 SH Screw
2214
Qty 4
Short Standoff
STEP #2
5217 Qty 4
4-40 Lock Nut
1431
- Snap Pivot Ball into the 5228 Ball End. Thread
the Ball End onto the Shock Shaft until the Ball 1432
1429 MED
1430 SHORT
End is flush with the end of threads on the shaft.
- Press 1432 Eyelet Cap into 1431 Threaded
NOTE: Put a few
- Attach 1436 Shock Piston to Shock Cap so that guide in the Eyelet Cap lines
drops of oil on the
Shock Shaft using 5230 E-Clips up in the recess in the Threaded Shock Cap.
O-Rings!
to secure.
- Press the 1437 Firm Bladder (BLACK) into the
1425 MED
- Press 1250 O-rings into the
1426 SHORT
Threaded Shock Cap so the dome of the
Shock Body followed by 1434
bladder points away from the Eyelet Cap.
Shaft Guide. Retain using 1435
- Fill the Shock Body with oil to the top then
Clip.
1434
thread the Eyelet Cap assembly onto the
TIP: To press clip in easiest, compress the
Shock Body until tight.
1250
clip so the diameter is a little smaller.Insert
-NOTE: See shock filling tips for more
open end of clip first, working counterinstructions.
5228
1435
clockwise to the bent end as shown.
1436
1437
OIL
SHOCK FILLING INSTRUCTIONS:
Filling Shocks: Steps 1-4 Setting Shock Rebound: Steps 5-8
1) Holding the 2) Slowly move the
3) Refill with 4) Thread the Eyelet Cap 5) Move the shock shaft in and out a
shock upright, shaft up and down
oil to the top assembly onto the Shock few times and then push it all the way
in. It should be easy to push the shaft
fill with oil until several times to allow of the shock Body until it is hand
air bubbles to escape body.
in until the eyelet hits the body.
the top of the
tight. Oil should seep
to the top.
body.
out of the bleed hole
OIL
OIL
in the Threaded Cap.
SUGGESTED
40 WT R/C
SHOCK OIL.
6) Then the shaft
should push itself
out to its full length
slowly.
7) If the shock does not push
out this far there is not enough
oil in it. Add just a little oil and
try steps 5-6 again.
OIL
STEP #3
5277 Screw
passes thru the
lowest row, 2nd
hole from the
outside on both
sides.
1488
SPRING
1408
5277
5277
5277 Screw
passes thru the
inner most hole,
1433 5th hole from the
bottom row.
5217
RIGHT
FRONT
The thick side
of the 1408
Mount Ball
should be to
the outside on
both front and
rear.
LEFT
REAR
5217
1408
1433
5274
8) If the shockrebounds too fast , or you cannot
push the shaft in until the eyelet hits the body, there
is too much oil. Loosen the cap about X full turns
and pump out a small amount of oil by pushing the
shaft in. Retighten the cap and try steps 5-6 again.
1407
5274
- Thread 1433 Spring Collar onto the - Install the shocks onto the screws
with the shoulder of the 1408
shock. Slide 1488 Spring onto the
Mount Ball facing away from the
shock and secure using the 1407
tower, secure with 5217 Nut.
spring bucket as shown.
- Press 5277 Screws thru the locations - Attach the shock to the susp
shown. Fasten using 2214 Standoff.
arms in the locations shown.
Bag
J KFuel Tank / Motor Mounts
Bag
-Parts for
Step#1
4350 Qty 1
Fuel Tank
3270 Qty 2
Motor Mount
3262
Qty 1
Pipe Mount
5282
Qty 1
4-40 Set Screw
1:1
1:1
1:1
5264
Qty 2
4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw
5263
Qty 3
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
5290
Qty 8
M3 x 8MM SH Screw
5217 Qty 2
4-40 Lock Nut
STEP #1
- Attach the 4450 Fuel Tank to the chassis using the
5263 Screws.
- Mount the 3270 Motor Mounts using the 5290 Motor
Mount Screws. The slanted edge of the mount will face
toward the spur gear.
- Mount the 3262 Pipe Mount using the 5264 Screws
and 5205 Nuts.
-Thread the 5282 Set Screw into the pipe mount, this
will be used to secure the wire coming from your
exhaust pipe to the car.
NOTE: The extra 5290 screws are to mount your nitro
motor after completion of the Clutch Bag.
4350
5217
3270
5263
4966
5290
5282
5264
Bag K Servo and Linkage Installation
-Parts for
Steps
#1&#2
5242
Qty 1
Large Servo Saver
5240 Qty4
Servo Mount
8130
Qty2
Small Ball Cup
5281 Qty1
4-40 Stud
8122
Qty 2
Ball Stud
3234 Qty 2
Spacer
3209
Qty1
Antenna Mount
5253
Qty 8
4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw
5263
Qty 9
4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw
1:1
-Parts for
Step#3
5246
Qty1
Carb Ball Cup
5246 Qty2
Spring
5246 Qty5
Collar
5282
Qty 5
4-40 Set Screw
5246 Qty1
Swivel
5215
Qty1
2-56 Ball End
5215 Qty1
2-56 Pivot Ball
5232
Qty1
2-56 Cone Spacer
5246 Qty2
Fuel Tubing
5252
Qty 1
4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw
STEP #1
- Attach 5240 Servo Mounts to your steering servo in the
position shown using 5253 Screws. ALSO do this for throttle
servo in the same position as well now.
- Thread 8122 Ball Stud into the upper-most center hole in the
5242 Servo Saver using the 3234 Spacer.
- Attach both 8130 Ball Cups to one another using the 5281
Stud until the Ball Cups bottom out on one another. Snap a
Ball Cup onto the Ball Stud on the Servo Saver.
- Determine which of the Spline Inserts are correct for your
servo by pressing it over the drive on the servo. Align the
servo so it has equal throw in both directions.
- Press the Servo Saver onto the Spline Insert so that the Servo
Saver is perpendicular to the servo, attach using the screw
that came with your servo.
3234
5246 Qty1
Steel Snap
5228
Qty1
Throttle Rod (SHORT)
5246 Qty1
Servo Horn
1:1
1:1
-Parts for
Step#4
5201
Qty 1
2-56 x 1/2 SH Screw
5228
Qty1
Brake Rod (LONG)
5204 Qty 1
2-56 Lock Nut
STEP #2
- Mount the servos to the chassis using 5263 Screws as
shown.
- Thread the 8122 Ball Stud into the top of the Steering
Slide, Snap the Ball Cup onto the Ball Stud.
-Using double sided tape, mount your reciever to the
top of the steering servo.
- Attach 3209 Antenna Mount in either of the two
holes shown below.
NOTE: Steering movement should be bind free except
for the restriction of the servo transmission.
3209
8122
- 3234 SPACER IN STEPS 1&2 USED TO LEVEL
THE DRAG LINK WITH DIFFERENT SERVOS.
5240
1:1
1:1
8130
5253
8122
*3234 SPACER
UNDERNEATH*
5281
8130
5242
5263
- 3234 SPACER IN STEPS 1&2 USED
TO LEVEL THE DRAG LINK WITH
DIFFERENT SERVOS.
5246
Collar
STEP #3
5246
Ball Cup
5228
SHORT Rod
5246
Tubing
Throttle Rod Assembly:
- Thread the 5228 Throttle Rod into 5246 Ball Cup.
5228
- Slide the parts shown on the Throttle Rod,
LONG Rod
secure the collars using 5282 set screws.
- Mount the 5246 Swivel onto the Servo Horn thru the outer
most SMALL diameter holes. Attach using either the plastic or steel snap-clip.
5246
Swivel
5246
Collar
5215
Brake Rod Assembly:
- Thread the 5228 Brake Rod half way into the 5215 Ball End. Press the 5215 Pivot Ball
into the Ball End.
- Slide 5246 Collar onto the Brake Rod followed by 5246 Tubing.
-Mount the Brake Rod to the Servo Horn by placing 5201 Screw thru the Pivot Ball and
5232 Cone Spacer into the INNER most hole on the arm opposite the Throttle Linkage
Swivel. Secure using 5204 Locknut.
5246
Collar
5201
NOTE: For illustrative purposes the motor has been placed in the car. You will
want to mount the motor after you have completed the Cage assembly step.
Installation:
- Slide the open end of the Brake Rod thru the front of the Brake Cam.
- Slide 5246 Tubing Followed by 5246 Collar on the Brake Rod.
- Secure all Collars using 5282 Set Screws.
- Align the servo so it has equal throw in both directions. Press the
Servo Horn onto the Servo so that the Servo Horn is perpendicular to
the Servo Body as shown. Attach using the screw that came with
your servo.
- Trim the remaining length of the Servo Horn on the Brake Linkage
side to prevent collision with the Sprint Cage. It may be necessary to
bend the Brake Cam upward to allow for proper clearance with the
Sprint Cage as well.
LINKAGE SET-UP: -To be done with the radio unit ON!
- Keep the servo positioned at idle as shown in Figure #1
#1! Might be
necessary to re-align both the Steering Servo Saver and the Throttle
Servo Horn once the radio is “ON” and the servos find their actual center.
Throttle Linkage: Loosen the collar on the right side of the
Swivel and slide the Rod so that the carb can fully close. Next
slide the right side collar up against the Swivel and tighten.
Lastly adjust the left side collar so that it compresses the
spring 1/8” to 3/16”.
Brake Linkage: Slide the Tubing on the Brake Rod so the
Tubing is tight to the Brake Cam and the brake is only slightly
engaged to the brake pad, there should be slight resistance
when trying to spin the spur gear.
-Within your radio locate the End Point Adjustments (EPA)
setting. Here you will reduce the amount of travel your servo
has so that you do not damage your carb. Notice the carb
position in Figure #2, this is FULL throttle to the motor and
the servo should pull no further than this.
-Set the Braking End Point so that at full brake (Figure #3) the
spring on the throttle linkage is just about fully compressed.
-Set the EPA for the Steering Servo as well, so that it will only
turn the amount the car will allow it.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
5246
Servo Horn
5232
5204
5246
Steel or
Plastic
Clutch Bag Clutch Assembly
-Parts for
Clutch
Bag
4430 Qty 1
Flywheel
4437
Collet
Qty 1
4435 Qty 2
Clutch Shoe
4442 Qty 1
SG Nut
4431 Qty 2
Clutch Spring
4440 Qty 1
Clutch Bell
4523 Qty 1
23T Pinion
4438
Qty 1
Flanged Bearing
4439
Qty 1
Clutch Bearing
5208 Qty 1
M3x6mm SH
- Slide the 4437 Collet onto you motor followed by the 4430 Flywheel.
- Secure the Flywheel using 4442 SG Nut.
- Place the 4435 Clutch Shoes onto the clutch facing the direction shown and
secure with 4431 Clutch Springs.
NOTE: Install the springs by placing one leg on the Shoe, then press the other
leg into the groove in the Clutch Nut using a Driver Wrench.
- Slide 4438 Bearing onto the motor shaft followed by the 4440 Clutch Bell then
the 4439 Flanged Bearing.
- Secure the assembly using 5208 Screw. The clutch bell should spin “FREELY”
with the screw tight. It is OK if the clutch bell slides back and forth on the
motor shaft slightly. If there is too much play use the extra shims provided
to correct this.
- Thread the 4523 Pinion Gear onto the Clutch Bell with the side of the pinion
with the threads all the way to the edge facing AWAY from the motor.
4430
4435
4440
4431
4523
4438
4437
4442
4439
5208
Cage Bag Cage Assembly
-Parts for
Step #1
&
Step #2
-Parts for
Step#3
&
Step#4
1:1
3233
Qty 2
Rear Bumper
3233
Qty1
Bumper Connector
3239
Qty1
Front Cage Mount
3233
Qty 1
Front Bumper
3235
Qty 2
Main Cage Half
5255
Qty 4
4-40 x 5/8 BH Screw
3232
Qty 1
Nerf Bar L & R
1:1
5279
Qty 2
Hole Head Screw LONG
5254
Qty 6
4-40 x 1/2 BH Screw
3232
Qty 1
Nerf Support L & R
1:1
5278
Qty 2
4-40 x 1” SH Screw
1:1
1:1
5253
Qty 2
4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw
3235
Qty 2
Upper Cage Brace
1:1
5280
Qty 2
Hole Head Screw SHORT
1:1
5262
Qty 2
4-40 x 1/4 FH Screw
3421
Qty 2
Wing Slide Bushing
1:1
1:1
5274
Qty 4
4-40 x 1/2 SH Screw
STEP #1
5264
Qty 3
4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw
5253
3233
- Mount the (2) 3233 Rear Bumpers together using 5253
Screws and the 3233 Bumper Connector.
-Attach the Bumper Assembly to the Rear Bulkhead using
5255 Screw into the upper bumper and 5254 Screw into the
lower bumper as shown.
5255
3233
5254
3233
5253
STEP #2
- Mount the 3239 Front Cage mount to the chassis
using 5262 Screws.
STEP #3
- Assemble the Nerf Bar and Nerf Bar Support using
5254 Screw.
NOTE: Right and Left Nerf Bars and Supports come in
the cage kit. Shown is the RIGHT assembled part.
When using the correct Support with the Nerf Bar, the
bottom foot of the Support and the short leg of the
Nerf Bar will be parallel.
5254
Parallel to
one another!
3239
5262
5262
STEP #4
- Mount 3233 Front Bumper using 5278 Screws.
- Mount the 3241 Wing Slide Bushing to the Cage using 5255 Screws 5255
thru the Bushing and Cage and into the 3235 Upper Cage Brace.
- Use the (2) Long 5279 Hole Head Screws mount the 3235
Upper Cage Braces onto the top of the Main Cage Halfs.
3235
- Use the remaining (2) Short 5280 Hole Head Screws
MAIN CAGE
in the back of the Main Cage Halfs.
NOTE: Do NOT tighten all the way down, leave a gap
of .100”between the screw head and cage.
- After completing the Body Panel steps, Attach
3233
the rear of the Nerf Bar using the 5254
Screw thru the cage as shown. Attach the
5278
front of the Nerf Bar and the Nerf Bar
Support to the bottom of the “legs” on the
5274
Main Cage Half using 5274 Screws.
“HOOKS”
CAGE INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL:
- Place the cage between the front suspension tower with the “HOOKS”
slightly further forward the the front edge of the chassis.
- Guide the “HOOKS” into the Front Cage Mount while guiding the Short
5280 Hole Head Screws into the Rear Bulkhead.
- Position the (2) 5274 Screws that will mount the nerf bar to the bottom of
the Cage Half into the holes in the Chassis.
- Lock the cage by placing 9036 Clip into the Hole in the Head of the 5280
Screw.
5279
LONG
3421
CAGE BRACE
5280
SHORT
5254
- Remove this area of
the cage to clearance
the motor. Wire
5274
cutters will do a good
job.
- Trim 1/4” off the bottom of this post
to clearance the exhaust mount.
Body Panel Bag
Body Panel Prep & Mounting
HOLE #5
HOLE #2
HOLE #1
HOLE #3
HOLE #4
HOLE #3
HOLE #4
- Do these steps BEFORE painting your body panels!!!
- Cut the 9024 Left Body Panel to fit the Body Template provided.
- Use the Body Template ONLY to cut the front edge of the Right Body Panel.
- Follow the molded lines on the 9029 Eagle Hood and 9026 Tail Tank.
- Addtional trimming may be required to clearance suspension movements.
BODY HOLE NOTES:
HOLE #1: Fit the Side Panels and Hood to the Cage, make a mark where the Body Post meets
the Hood.
HOLE #2: Using the Body Template, make a mark where noted on the Template. Use a small
screw to mount.
HOLE #3, #4 & #5: Use the provided body line or mark molded into the Body Panel.
Top Wing
- Assemble the #9021 Wing Kit using the instructions provided inside the wing kit. Mount the wing to the car
and it should now look just like the car shown below.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
You have now completed the assembly process of your
new Custom Works Nitro Enforcer GSX2! In the next section of this manual you will find some
basic setup hints and advice. It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces
are different. Therefore the suggestions we give you are general in nature and should by no
means be treated as the only options.
MAINTENANCE:
Occasionally dirt will get into the moving and pivoting locations in your car. It is best to
periodically clean your car to keep all the suspension components moving freely. Read the tips
below to keep your car running at its best!
- Begin by removing the majority of the dirt using a small brush, toothbrush, or compressed air.
- Compressed air is ok to use, be mindful to not FORCE the dirt into the radio gear, transmission,
bearings, or air filter. Typically these items only have dirt on them, hitting the dirt with the
compressed air puts dirt IN these parts!
- Tires, either foam or rubber are best cleaned using water or cleaners like Simple Green (TM). Simple
Green also does a great job cleaning car parts as well. Lightly spraying car parts (NOT radio
components, transmission, air filter, or bearings) with Simple Green and blowing off with compressed
air or wiping the parts using the paint brush is a great way to clean in a hurry.
- Another R/C friendly cleaner is WD-40 (TM). After the car is clean, very lightly spray the car
components and bearings (NOT radio components, transmission, or air filter). Use your brush or
compressed air to remove the extra WD-40. This will lube your bearings and leave a protective
coating on the parts making it easier to remove dirt later.
- Differential Maintenance is needed when the action of the diff feels “notchy”. Usually cleaning the
diff parts, re-sand the thrust and diff plates with 400 paper, and lube appropriately will be all that is
needed to bring back to new. Ignoring your differential will lead to handling woes and increase
transmission temps, which will cause part failure.
TUNING TIPS:
These are some general guidelines for optimizing handling performance.
None of these “tips” are EVER set in stone. On any given day this manual or any chassis
engineering book or guru can be proved wrong by the stop watch. A good way to approach
chassis set-up is to try one change, practice it, think how the car felt different from before, and
compare lap times from the stop watch…..this will never fail.
Car Pushes (understeers):
- Decrease Wing Angle
- Decrease Spoiler on Wing
- Heavier Rear Spring
- Softer Front Spring
- Use Rear Sway Bar
- Try Softer Front Compound Tire
- Try Harder Rear Compound Tire
- Lower Front Ride Height
- Raise Rear Ride Height
- Thread Shock Collar UP on
Right Front
- Thread Shock Collar DOWN on
Right Rear
- Decrease Rear Toe
- Decrease Castor
- Add Rear Toe Stagger or
Increase the difference
Car Is Loose (oversteers):
- Increase Wing Angle
- Add Spoiler to Wing
- Softer Rear Spring
- Heavier Front Spring
- Use Front Sway Bar
- Try Harder Front Compound Tire
- Try Softer Rear Compound Tire
- Raise Front Ride Height
- Lower Rear Ride Height
- Thread Shock Collar
DOWN on Right Front
- Thread Shock Collar UP on
Right Rear
- Increase Rear Toe
- Increase Castor
- Decrease Rear Toe Stagger or
Decrease the difference
Car Is Erratic:
- Bent Suspension Pins: Remove shocks to check
free movement.
- Bound Ball Joint: Should spin free on balls
while mounted to the car.
- Bent or Loose Camber Links
- Wore out Bearings or Completely Seized
Bearings
- Chunked Tire: Check to see if Foam or Rubber
Tire is still glued to wheel.
- Loose Screws: Especially Chassis Screws, add
Blue Loctite to prevent.
- Shocks: Either Bound-up or Out of Oil. Must
swivel freely on mounts.
- Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones
preventing Suspension or Steering Movement.
- Blown Differential
- Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver
Spring, Transmitter Pot blown.
SET-UP GUIDELINES:
When looking for the “perfect set-up” it is important to remember 2 things...
1) Keeping things simple is best.
2) As you are making your set-up change, the track is changing too! Ask a local racer what the
track usually does from begining to end, especially day to night.
- Start your car’s ride height with it equal at all four corners to start. Use the shock collars to adjust
ride height by measuring the distance under the chassis when the car is sitting on a FLAT & LEVEL
surface.
- Shock collars can only jack weight and adjust the car’s handling when the car makes ALL 4 shocks
squat when the car is set down. Use the RF shock collar to adjust how the car ENTERS the corner.
Use the RR shock collar to adjust how the car exits the corner ON-POWER. Use the LF shock collar
to make the car turn in less, and off the corner more.
- It is best to have a little bit of brake drag when you let off the gas, this will allow for a more
controlable car in ALL conditions. Increasing how much the brake drags will make your car turn
into the corner harder.
SET-UP GLOSSARY:
Caster: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.
Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn and down the straights and
increase steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel more “touchy” at high
speeds and help steering while exiting the turn.
Camber Gain: Angle of the Camber Link relative to the Suspension Arm. Lowering the camber
link on the shock tower OR raising the camber link on the castor block will INCREASE the
camber angle of the tire when the suspension is compressed. Raising the camber link on the
shock tower OR lowering the camber link on the castor block will DECREASE the camber
angle of the tire when the suspension is compressed. There is not a “correct” set-up and once
again too much of anything is generally bad. This will help change the “feel” of the car thru
the turns.
Camber Link Length: Comparing this to the length of the Suspension Arm from each pivot
point and keeping the Camber the same, making the link shorter will decrease traction for
that corner of the car while making it longer will increase traction for that corner of the car.
Once the camber link is equal to or greater than the Suspension Arm pivots, the gain of
traction ends. Also a shorter camber link will increase camber gain and a longer decrease
camber gain.
Shock Angle: Leaning the shock toward the car is effectively like changing to a softer spring.
Standing the shock closer to vertical is effectively like changing to a stiffer spring. Try when
the car is working well and when one spring change is TOO much for your set-up.
Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on the
track. Having the front end higher than the rear will make the car increase rear traction
especially out of the turn. Having the front end lower than the front will make the car increase
front traction especially entering the turn. Generally its safe to start the car with the ride
heights even.
Rear Toe-In: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the car.
Increasing the angle toward the car will increase rear traction while decreasing front traction.
Decreasing the angle will do the opposite.
Rear Toe Stagger: Difference in the amount of Rear Toe-In among the rear tires. Typically used
only on high bite tracks with MORE toe-in on the Left Rear tire than the Right so the rear of
the car helps turn the car LEFT under acceleration.
Wheelbase (Front End): Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles.
Running the entire front end assembly in the forward position makes the wheelbase longer
and therefore more stable on long/fast tracks with flowing turns. Running the entire front
end assembly in the rear position make the wheelbase shorter and therefore more suitable for
short-tracks where you are constantly turning.
Wheelbase (Rear End): This adjustment uses the plastic spacers on the kingpin the rear
bearing carrier rides on. With the spacers in front of the carrier it will lengthen the wheelbase
but will increase steering. If the spacers are behind the carrier it will shorten the wheelbase
but increase rear traction. This is completely backwards from how it works for the Front End
only because in the rear of the car you have the weight of the motor and the torque it creates.
Shortening the wheelbase here makes more of the car hang over the rear tires and promotes
more weight transfer.
Final Drive Chart: The chart provided below gives you the final drive of the motor to spin the
axle 1 revolution. This chart is NOT just the pinion and spur, but has the transmission ratio
included as well.
To determine the final drive in your car:
1) Divide the Spur Gear by the Pinion Gear, which equals a “Ratio”.
2) Multiply the “Ratio” by the “Transmission Ratio”, which will equal
your “Final Drive”.
DRIVER:_______________________________
Clay
Hard Packed
Loose Dirt
DATE:_________________________________
Carpet Asphalt
Concrete
EVENT________________________________
Flat
Banked
True Oval
Tri-Oval
CLASS:________________________________
Traction:
High
Medium
Low
TRACK:_________________LENGTH:_______
FRONT SUSPENSION
RIGHT
CAMBER:____________
INNER
CAMBER RATE SHIMS:
__________________
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER
AXLE SHIMS: _____
ACKERMANN: ON SPINDLE
SHORT MIDDLE LONG
FRONT AXLE:
CASTOR: 0O
0O
O
O
STOCK
+5
-5
-5O
O
KICK-UP: 25
EXTENDED
+10O
-10O
-10O
20O HIGH 20O LO
O HIGH
O LO
AXLE
SHIMS:
_____
15
15
REAR SUSPENSION
LEFT
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER
INNER
CAMBER RATE SHIMS:
__________________
ACKERMANN: ON SPINDLE
SHORT MIDDLE LONG
FRONT AXLE: CASTOR:
STOCK
+5O
EXTENDED
+10O
SHOCKS
COLLAR
LENGTH
CAMBER:____________
RF LEAD TRAIL
AMOUNT:_______
SWAY BAR: NONE
.063
.078”
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
OUTER
LEFT
TOE IN/OUT _____
RIGHT
CAMBER LINK LOCATION
INNER
INNER
OUTER
SHOCK LENGTH
LEFT FRONT SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
LEFT REAR SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
RIGHT FRONT SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
RIGHT REAR SHOCK
BODY LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SHAFT LENGTH
SHORT MED LONG
SPRING:______________________
OIL:__________ PISTON:_________
BLADDER:_____________________
LENGTH:______________________
COLLAR:______________________
WEIGHT & CHASSIS HEIGHTS
HUB SPACING:
F
R
CAMBER:________
TOE-IN: _________
WHEEL SPACERS:
_______________
SWAY BAR: NONE
.063”
.078”
REAR WIDTH (INNER/OUTER)
LR:____________RR:____________
TOE-BLOCK SHIMS:
LR:____________RR:____________
ANTI-SQUAT SHIMS:
LR:____________RR:____________
HUB SPACING:
F
R
CAMBER:________
TOE-IN: _________
ADDED LEAD:
FRONT_______
MIDDLE_______
REAR_________
Y
[
X
Z
WHEEL SPACERS:
_______________
-SHADE IN MOUNTING LOCATIONS ON SUSPENSION ARMS, BEARING CARRIER AND SHOCK TOWER.
TIRE TYPE:
TIRES & TRACTION
FOAM
STREET RUBBER
LOOSE DIRT
COMPOUND
DIAMETER
INSERT
RF: _______________________ _______ ________
LF: _______________________
_______
________
RR: _______________________
_______
________
LR: _______________________
_______
________
TRACTION ADDITIVE:_____________________________
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________
WING
HIGH WING
LF
RF
X YZ[\
A
B
C
HOOD TYPE:_______________________
RECIEVER
AS SHOWN
_________
CORNER WEIGHTS:
LF:___________ RF:___________
LR:___________ RR:___________
LR
RR
MISC...
MAIN WING SIZE:
6X6
7X7
FRONT WING SIZE:__________________
SPOILER LENGTH:___________________
WING LOCATION:___________________
LOW WING
-SHADE IN AREAS OF
TRACTION ADDITIVE AND
DRAW IN TIRE GROOVES
MOTOR: ______________________
PIPE:_________________________
FUEL:_________________________
PINION:_________ SPUR:_________
CLUTCH TYPE: STOCK(2) 3-SHOE
OTHER:______________________
CLUTCH SPRING: STOCK #4320
OTHER:______________________
NOTES:_______________________
_____________________________
_____________________________
OVERALL WEIGHT: _______
RECIEVER PACK
CHASSIS HEIGHTS BY LOCATION:
X____________ ____________
Y
Z____________ ____________
[
MEASURED FROM:
TOP OF CHASSIS
BOTTOM OF CHASSIS
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
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