READING... REQUIRED READING ...UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL! Thank You and Congratulations on purchasing the ENFORCER GSX2 GSX2! Within this kit you will find a race winning car with over 21 years worth of CUSTOM WORKS design and quality. In order for you to realize this race car’s winning potential it is important to follow the written text along with the pictures included. The steps required to build this car are very easy, as long as you read before you build. The instructional format for building this car is to open each bag in alphabetical order. Each bag of parts will be broken down into “Steps” in the manual. All parts and hardware needed to complete all steps for each separate bag, will be found in each individual bag. There is no need to steal screws from other bags. In the rare event you need to look in a different bag for a certain part, it will be noted clearly. Considering the various dirt or clay surfaces that Nitro Dirt Oval cars are raced on today, the Enforcer GSX2 has been designed to be competitive on high bite and well groomed clay tracks with rubber or foam racing tires. The instructions will build the kit using the most verastale set-up Custom Works has found in testing on different types of tracks, however there are various other suspension configurations available to you that you may find more suitable for your local track. For updates and more proven set-ups login to CustomWorksRC.com. All hardware (screws, washers, nuts, etc…) are referred to by size and type in the instructions. To help clarify which screw or nut the instruction is calling for refer to the HARDWARE REFERENCE supplement. The size of the screw or nut should match the “shadow” of the same piece very closely. Screw ID’s are: FH FH=Flat Head BH BH=Button Head SH SH=Socket Head SS SS=Set Screw BUILDING TIPS: -Using some type of thread locking fluid is suggested for all parts where metal screws thread into other metal parts. We suggest using a lite setting strength thread lock for the reason you may want to take the screw out one day. Remember it only takes a very small amount to secure the screw. -Do NOT use power screwdrivers to drive screws into parts. The fast rotation speed can easily melt and strip plastic parts or cross-thread into the aluminum parts. -Lightly sand the edges of graphite pieces using a medium grade sandpaper to avoid splinters. Run a thin bead of Super Glue around the edges to give pieces greater durability. SUGGESTED TOOLS 400 Grit Sandpaper Hobby Scissors Small Needle Nose Pliers Wire Cutters X-Acto Knife Phillips Head Screw Driver Blue Loctite 3/16" Wrench Bag A Front Suspension -Parts for Step#1 1:1 3255 Qty 2 Front Susp Arms 3332 Qty 1 1.85” Front Susp Brace 1255 Qty 2 Spacer 3257 Qty 2 Front Susp Mount 4240 Qty 2 Front Inner Susp Pin 1:1 -Parts for Step#2 1201 Qty 1 Enforcer GS Chassis 1242 Qty 1 Front Shock Tower STEP #1 3228 Qty1 Long Body Post 3228 Qty 1 Post Collar -1255 Spacer goes between the Susp Arm and the 3257 Mount 5230 Qty 24 E-Clip 1:1 1:1 5253 Qty 4 4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw 3228 Qty 1 Set Screw 1:1 5263 Qty 4 4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw 3229 Qty 1 8-32 x 1/2 FH Screw STEP #2 SET SCREW 1242 1201 3257 5230 5253 3255 3332 Screw Mounting Locations for 3257 Suspension Mounts. 4240 - Insert 4240 Inner Pin thru 3332 Susp Brace and thru the first leg of 3253 Susp Arm. The 1255 Spacer will go between the Susp Arm and the 3257 Susp Mount. - Snap 5230 E-Clips to 4240 Susp Pin. - Arms should pivot freely on the mounts. Bag B - Do NOT overtighten the screws 5263 into the mount! 3229 - Fasten the 1242 tower to the suspension assembly. THE REMAINING HOLES WILL BE COMPLETED IN “Bag B”! - Fasten the suspension assembly and the 3228 Body Post to the 1201 Chassis. Steering Components -Parts for Step#1 5225 Qty 4 2” Titanium Turnbuckle 1:1 5235 Ball Cup Qty 6 1:1 5213 Qty 2 Ball End 5213 Qty 2 Pivot Ball 1:1 -Parts for Step#2 3202 Qty 2 Steering Block L&R 7209 Qty 2 Ball Stud King Pin 7209 Qty 4 Spacer 7200 Front Axle Qty 2 5004 Qty 2 6-20 Set Screw 1:1 3203 Qty 2 (Left Shown) 25 Deg Castor Block 1255 Qty 2 Spacer 4241 Qty 2 Front Outer Susp Pin 1:1 -Parts for Step#3 3304 Qty 1 Steering Slide STEP #1 5213 PIVOT BALL 5213 1:1 5230 Bag A E-Clip 3304 Qty 1 Steering Rack 8122 Qty 4 Ball Stud 5262 Qty 2 4-40 x 1/4 FH Screw 5257 Qty 2 4-40 x 3/4 BH Screw 5217 Qty 4 4-40 Lock Nut - Make (2) of each turnbuckle shown below, total of 4 linkages. - NOTE: Turnbuckle has RIGHT - The linkages with ball cups on each end will be STEERING LINKS. and LEFT threads! - The linkages with a pivot ball on one end will be CAMBER LINKS. 5225 5235 5235 5225 5235 STEP #2 7209 3205 - Insert the 7200 Axle into the 3202 Steering Arm so the holes are in-line. -Align the Steering Arm into the 3205 Castor Block and press the 7209 Ball Stud Kingpin thru the assembly as shown. STEP #3 3304 -8122 MOUNTS IN 2ND HOLE IN ON BOTH SIDES. 8122 8122 8122 3304 1255 1255 5217 NUT ON 5257 SCREW 5004 5230 3202 5262 8122 1255 3202 7200 5217 NUT ON 5257 SCREW - Thread the 8122 Ball Stud into the front face of 3304 Steering Slide. Do the same to the 3202 Steering Arm using (2) 1255 Spacers as shown. 5230 FOR - Insert the Steering Slide into the 3304 Steering Rack, 7209 PIN mount the rack to the chassis using 5262 Screws. - Mount the linkages from Step #1 by snapping the Ball Cups onto the Ball Studs. - Secure the Ball Ends on the Camber Links to the back of the Susp Mounts by using 5257 Screw through the upper hole -Mount the Castor Block to the Susp Arm by on the front of the Shock Tower like in Bag A/Step#2. The inserting the 4241 Susp Pin thru the Susp Arm length of the thread will come thru the Susp Mount, slide and Castor Block. the Ball End on the thread and secure with 5217 Nut. -Retain the Susp Pin by attaching 5230 E-Clips to - Attach the steering links by snapping the ball cups on the ball ends. each end. 7209 Spacer 4241 5230 Bag C Rear Suspension 1:1 -Parts for Step#1 1273 Qty 1 Rear Bulkhead 1284 Qty 2 Med Shock Ear 3305 Qty 1 Tail Tank Tray 5255 Qty 4 4-40 x 5/8 BH Screw 1:1 5263 Qty 4 4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw 1:1 5253 Qty 2 4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw 5217 Qty 4 4-40 Lock Nut 1:1 -Parts for Step#2 3240 Qty 2 Rear Susp Arm 2222 Qty 2 1-3 Deg Toe Block 4234 Qty 2 Rear Inner Susp Pin STEP #1 1:1 5264 Qty 6 4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw STEP #2 1284 -Attach the 3254 Susp Arm to the 2222 Toe Block using the 4234 Susp Pin. Retain the pin with 5230 E-Clips. NT FRO -Attach the 1284 Long Shock Ears to the 1273 Bulk to the side facing away in the diagram. -Attach the 3305 Tail Tank Tray as shown in the diagram. 5217 1284 5255 -Make a RIGHT and LEFT 5254 assembly! 2222 5230 5217 5253 1273 NT RO 5255 4234 -Fasten the LEFT assembly to the INNER most set of holes. -Fasten the RIGHT assembly to 5254 the OUTER most set of holes. 5263 - Mount the Susp Tower assembly using 5263 Screws. 3240 F 3305 5230 Bag A E-Clip -LEFT Side Assembly NOTE: Mount the Toe Blocks to the chassis in the 3 deg position. The screw will pass thru the hole closest to the 3 machined in the part. The numbers on the part should be to the rear of the car. Bag D Rear Suspension 1:1 -Parts for Step#1 3241 Qty 2 Bearing Carrier 1226 Qty 4 Ball Bearing 1:1 4235 Qty 2 Rear Outer Susp Pin 1255 Qty 10 Spacer 1:1 1:1 -Parts for STEP#2 7211 Qty 2 CVD Coupling -Parts for STEP#3 5230 Bag A E-Clip 7215 Qty 1 Short Dogbone 7213 Qty 1 Long Dogbone 7216 Qty 2 Rear CVD Axle 7211 Qty 2 Rear CVD Pin 5223 Qty 1 1 3/4” TI Turnbuckle 7211 Qty 2 CVD Set Screw 1:1 5225 Qty 1 2” TI T- Buckle STEP #1 1:1 5235 Ball Cup 1:1 8122 Qty 4 Ball Stud 7047 Qty 8 Spacer STEP #2 3241 5230 Qty 4 5217 Qty 2 4-40 Lock Nut 7203 Qty 2 Roll Pin 7211 (Pin) 1255 1226 7213 SHORT (LEFT) 7215 LONG (RIGHT) 7216 XXXX Qty 4 Ball Stud EA 7211 (Coupling) SE TE GR - Apply grease to the areas shown. - Apply thread-lock (Loctite) to the set screw. - Align the holes as shown so that the 7211 CVD Pin can pass thru the Bone, Axle, and Coupling. Pin should be evenly 7211 (Set Screw) spaced in the DogBone. -Tighten the Set Screw by angling the Bone and Axle so the set-screw is able to be tightened. CTI - Press 1226 Ball Bearings into the 3241 Bearing Carrier. - Attach the Bearing Carrier to the Susp Arm using 4235 Susp Pin with (2) 1255 Spacers on each side of the Bearing Carrier. - NOTE: The Suspension Pin will pass thru the UPPER hole in the Bearing Carrier. - Retain the Susp Pin using 5230 E-Clips. LO 4235 STEP #3 - Assemble the camber links by threading the 5235 Ball Cup on each end. Attach by snapping the Ball Cups onto the Ball Studs. NOTE: The LONGER link goes on the RIGHT REAR suspension component. - Attach the 8122 Ball Stud to the Rear Bulkhead as shown using a 5217 Lock Nut. - Slide the thick shim packaged with the CVD parts onto the CVD Axle, Insert the CVD assembly by sliding the axle thru the bearings. 5217 5226 7213 LONG (RIGHT) 8122 - Slide a 1255 Spacer onto the Ball Stud and thread into the Bearing Carrier in the outer most hole. - Slide (4) 7047 Shims onto the axle and retain using the 7203 Roll Pin. Pin should be evenly spaced in Axle. 7203 7215 SHORT (LEFT) 1255 7047 8122 5225 Bag E Diff Assembly 1:1 -Parts for Step#1 4403 Qty 1 Right Outdrive 4404 Qty 2 Diff Ring 4205 Qty 2 Thrust Washer 4361 Qty 1 Diff Bolt Cover 1:1 4204 Qty 6 Thrust Balls 4361 Qty 1 Diff Bolt 1:1 1229 Qty 2 5/32 x 5/16 Bearing -Parts for Step#2 4402 Qty 1 Left Outdrive 4361 4362 Qty 1 Diff Spring 4407 Qty 1 Diff Gear STEP #1 4205 BL A GR CK EA SE 4403 4404 DIFF LUBE 1229 - Slide a 4205 Thrust Washer onto the Diff Bolt. - Apply a thick layer of Black Grease to the Thrust Washer, press (6) 4204 Thrust Balls into the Black Grease. - Slide the other Thrust Washer on the Diff Bolt and insert it into the 4403 Right Outdrive. - Press (1) 1229 Bearing into the Outdrive. - Put (1) 4404 Diff Ring on the Outdrive, apply Diff Lube as shown. Bag F 4361 Qty 1 Diff T- Nut STEP #2 CUSTOM-TIP!!! -Using 400 Grit Sandpaper in a“Figure 8” pattern, it is best to sand the surfaces 4204 of both the 4404 Diff Ring and 4205 Thrust Washers. The textured surface results in a smoother and longer lasting diff. 4361 -Parts for Step#1 4357 Qty 12 Diff Balls F DIF BE LU 4403 1229 4404 4357 4407 4402 - Press a small amount of Diff Grease into each of the small holes in the 4407 Diff Gear. 4362 - Press (1) 1229 Bearing and the (12) 4361 4357 Diff Balls into the Diff Gear. - Put (1) 4404 Diff Ring onto the 4403 Right Outdrive, apply Diff Grease as shown. - Install the 4362 Diff Spring and 4361 T-nut into the 4402 Left Outdrive. - Carefully slide the diff assembly together so the Diff Bolt passes thru the entire assembly and threads into the T-nut. -Screw the Diff Bolt into the T-nut until you feel the Diff Spring fully compress. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!! - Back the Diff Bolt off EXACTLY 1/8 of a turn. Diff motion should be smooth and the Outdrives will turn in opposite directions. Insert Diff Bolt Cover as you did the T-Nut. Transmission Casing 1:1 LEFT 1:1 RIGHT 4401 Qty 1 Transmission Halfs 4405 Qty1 Idler Gear 4370 Qty 6 Thick Spacer 1226 Qty 4 3/16 x 3/8 Bearing 1:1 -Parts for Step#2 1230 Qty 2 3/8 x 5/8 Bearing - Press the (2) 1230 Bearings STEP and (4) 1226 Bearings into each 4401 Transmission Half. - Slide (1) 4370 Thick Washer on each side of the 4368 Top Drive Shaft. - Insert the Diff Assembly, Top Drive Shaft, and 4405 Idler Gear into the RIGHT Trans Half. 5273 - Align the LEFT Trans Half over the gears and secure it to the RIGHT Trans Half with (5) 5273 Screws. 4368 Qty 1 Top Drive Shaft 5273 Qty 5 4-40 x 3/8 SH Screw 4406 Qty 1 Top Shaft Roll Pin #1 STEP #2 1226 4406 4370 4370 4368 4405 1226 1230 1230 4401 LEFT - Diff Screw should be on the RIGHT side of the Trans! 4401 RIGHT - Press the 4406 Roll Pin into the hole in the Top Drive Shaft. Bag G Spur Gear Assembly -Parts for Bag G 1:1 4424 Qty 1 Disc Brake Adapter 4423 Brake Disc Qty 1 2228 Qty 1 Slipper Eliminator STEP #1 4966 Qty 1 66T 32P Spur Gear 2228 5252 4423 2228 CONED SIDE OF SPUR GEAR 5252 Qty 2 4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw 2228 Qty 1 Spacer 5245 Qty 1 5-40 Locknut - First slide the 4424 Disc Brake Adapter onto the 2228 Slipper Eliminator so the grooves are aligned. - Press the 4423 Brake Disc onto the 4424 Brake Adapter and slide the entire assembly onto the Top Drive Shaft so that the Roll Pin keys into the grooves. - Secure the assembly to the Top Shaft with the 2228 Spacer and the 5245 Locknut. Do NOT overtighten the nut on the Top Shaft! - Mount the 4966 Spur Gear so the flat side faces AWAY from the transmission. Secure using (2) 5252 Screws. 4966 4424 1:1 5245 FLAT SIDE OF SPUR GEAR Bag H Brake Assembly -Parts for Bag H 1:1 4421 Qty 1 Brake Shoe 4420 Qty 1 Brake Bracket STEP #1 4422 4422 Brake Cam Qty 1 4425 Clip 4421 4420 5252 Qty 2 4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw Qty 1 - Slide the 4421 Brake Shoe onto the 4420 - Fir Brake Bracket with both crescent shape cutouts facing the same direction. - Install the Brake Bracket onto the transmission so that the Brake Disc is between the Bracket and Shoe. - Secure the Bracket using 5252 Screw. -Slide the 4422 Brake Cam thru the small holes in the Brake Bracket. The lever of the Brake Cam should be facing the same direction as the pictures shown. -Secure the Brake Cam using 4425 Clip. 5252 1:1 4425 Transmission Casing Bag I 1:1 -Parts for Bag I 3309 Qty 1 Transmission Brace 3229 Qty 1 Post Collar 1202 Qty 1 Trans Spacer 3265 Qty 1 Trans Spacer 1:1 3229 Qty1 Short Body Post 3229 Qty 1 Set Screw 5253 3229 3309 3265 5268 1202 5264 5264 Qty 4 4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw 3229 Qty 1 8-32 x 1/2 FH Screw 1:1 5253 Qty 4 4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw - Attach 3229 Body Post to 3309 Trans Brace using 3229 Screw. Slide 3201 Post Collar onto the Body Post and secure using 3229 Set Screw. - Secure the Trans to the Chassis using (2) 5253 Screws thru the 3265 Trans Support and (4) 5264 Screws thru the 1202 Trans Spacer as shown. - Attach the Trans Brace to the Trans and Rear Bulkhead using 5253 Screws. - NOTE: Align the dogbone shafts into the outdrives of Trans as you mount the trans! 5268 Qty 2 4-40 x 1” FH Screw 1:1 Shock Assembly Shock Bag Bag J -Parts for Step#1 1:1 M 1425 Qty 2 Med Shock Body 1426 Qty 2 Short Shock Body 1430 Qty2 Short Shock Shaft 1429 Qty2 Med Shock Shaft 1434 Qty4 Shaft Guide -Parts for Step#2 1431 Qty4 Threaded Cap 1432 Qty4 Eyelet Cap 1437 Qty 4 Firm Bladder (BLACK) 1250 Qty 8 O- Ring 1:1 1435 Qty 6 Reatining Clip 5228 Qty4 Short Ball End 1436 Qty4 Piston 5230 Qty 10 E-Clip 5228 Qty4 Pivot Ball -Parts for Step#3 1433 Qty4 Spring Collar STEP #1 1488 Qty4 Spring 1407 Qty4 Spring Bucket 5230 1408 Qty4 Mount Ball BUILD 2 SHORT & 2 MED LENGTH SHOCKS! - USE #1429 SHAFT WITH #1425 BODY. - USE #1430 SHAFT WITH #1426 BODY . 5277 Qty 4 4-40 x 7/8 SH Screw 5274 Qty 4 4-40 x 1/2 SH Screw 2214 Qty 4 Short Standoff STEP #2 5217 Qty 4 4-40 Lock Nut 1431 - Snap Pivot Ball into the 5228 Ball End. Thread the Ball End onto the Shock Shaft until the Ball 1432 1429 MED 1430 SHORT End is flush with the end of threads on the shaft. - Press 1432 Eyelet Cap into 1431 Threaded NOTE: Put a few - Attach 1436 Shock Piston to Shock Cap so that guide in the Eyelet Cap lines drops of oil on the Shock Shaft using 5230 E-Clips up in the recess in the Threaded Shock Cap. O-Rings! to secure. - Press the 1437 Firm Bladder (BLACK) into the 1425 MED - Press 1250 O-rings into the 1426 SHORT Threaded Shock Cap so the dome of the Shock Body followed by 1434 bladder points away from the Eyelet Cap. Shaft Guide. Retain using 1435 - Fill the Shock Body with oil to the top then Clip. 1434 thread the Eyelet Cap assembly onto the TIP: To press clip in easiest, compress the Shock Body until tight. 1250 clip so the diameter is a little smaller.Insert -NOTE: See shock filling tips for more open end of clip first, working counterinstructions. 5228 1435 clockwise to the bent end as shown. 1436 1437 OIL SHOCK FILLING INSTRUCTIONS: Filling Shocks: Steps 1-4 Setting Shock Rebound: Steps 5-8 1) Holding the 2) Slowly move the 3) Refill with 4) Thread the Eyelet Cap 5) Move the shock shaft in and out a shock upright, shaft up and down oil to the top assembly onto the Shock few times and then push it all the way in. It should be easy to push the shaft fill with oil until several times to allow of the shock Body until it is hand air bubbles to escape body. in until the eyelet hits the body. the top of the tight. Oil should seep to the top. body. out of the bleed hole OIL OIL in the Threaded Cap. SUGGESTED 40 WT R/C SHOCK OIL. 6) Then the shaft should push itself out to its full length slowly. 7) If the shock does not push out this far there is not enough oil in it. Add just a little oil and try steps 5-6 again. OIL STEP #3 5277 Screw passes thru the lowest row, 2nd hole from the outside on both sides. 1488 SPRING 1408 5277 5277 5277 Screw passes thru the inner most hole, 1433 5th hole from the bottom row. 5217 RIGHT FRONT The thick side of the 1408 Mount Ball should be to the outside on both front and rear. LEFT REAR 5217 1408 1433 5274 8) If the shockrebounds too fast , or you cannot push the shaft in until the eyelet hits the body, there is too much oil. Loosen the cap about X full turns and pump out a small amount of oil by pushing the shaft in. Retighten the cap and try steps 5-6 again. 1407 5274 - Thread 1433 Spring Collar onto the - Install the shocks onto the screws with the shoulder of the 1408 shock. Slide 1488 Spring onto the Mount Ball facing away from the shock and secure using the 1407 tower, secure with 5217 Nut. spring bucket as shown. - Press 5277 Screws thru the locations - Attach the shock to the susp shown. Fasten using 2214 Standoff. arms in the locations shown. Bag J KFuel Tank / Motor Mounts Bag -Parts for Step#1 4350 Qty 1 Fuel Tank 3270 Qty 2 Motor Mount 3262 Qty 1 Pipe Mount 5282 Qty 1 4-40 Set Screw 1:1 1:1 1:1 5264 Qty 2 4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw 5263 Qty 3 4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw 5290 Qty 8 M3 x 8MM SH Screw 5217 Qty 2 4-40 Lock Nut STEP #1 - Attach the 4450 Fuel Tank to the chassis using the 5263 Screws. - Mount the 3270 Motor Mounts using the 5290 Motor Mount Screws. The slanted edge of the mount will face toward the spur gear. - Mount the 3262 Pipe Mount using the 5264 Screws and 5205 Nuts. -Thread the 5282 Set Screw into the pipe mount, this will be used to secure the wire coming from your exhaust pipe to the car. NOTE: The extra 5290 screws are to mount your nitro motor after completion of the Clutch Bag. 4350 5217 3270 5263 4966 5290 5282 5264 Bag K Servo and Linkage Installation -Parts for Steps #1 5242 Qty 1 Large Servo Saver 5240 Qty4 Servo Mount 8130 Qty2 Small Ball Cup 5281 Qty1 4-40 Stud 8122 Qty 2 Ball Stud 3234 Qty 2 Spacer 3209 Qty1 Antenna Mount 5253 Qty 8 4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw 5263 Qty 9 4-40 x 3/8 FH Screw 1:1 -Parts for Step#3 5246 Qty1 Carb Ball Cup 5246 Qty2 Spring 5246 Qty5 Collar 5282 Qty 5 4-40 Set Screw 5246 Qty1 Swivel 5215 Qty1 2-56 Ball End 5215 Qty1 2-56 Pivot Ball 5232 Qty1 2-56 Cone Spacer 5246 Qty2 Fuel Tubing 5252 Qty 1 4-40 x 1/4 BH Screw STEP #1 - Attach 5240 Servo Mounts to your steering servo in the position shown using 5253 Screws. ALSO do this for throttle servo in the same position as well now. - Thread 8122 Ball Stud into the upper-most center hole in the 5242 Servo Saver using the 3234 Spacer. - Attach both 8130 Ball Cups to one another using the 5281 Stud until the Ball Cups bottom out on one another. Snap a Ball Cup onto the Ball Stud on the Servo Saver. - Determine which of the Spline Inserts are correct for your servo by pressing it over the drive on the servo. Align the servo so it has equal throw in both directions. - Press the Servo Saver onto the Spline Insert so that the Servo Saver is perpendicular to the servo, attach using the screw that came with your servo. 3234 5246 Qty1 Steel Snap 5228 Qty1 Throttle Rod (SHORT) 5246 Qty1 Servo Horn 1:1 1:1 -Parts for Step#4 5201 Qty 1 2-56 x 1/2 SH Screw 5228 Qty1 Brake Rod (LONG) 5204 Qty 1 2-56 Lock Nut STEP #2 - Mount the servos to the chassis using 5263 Screws as shown. - Thread the 8122 Ball Stud into the top of the Steering Slide, Snap the Ball Cup onto the Ball Stud. -Using double sided tape, mount your reciever to the top of the steering servo. - Attach 3209 Antenna Mount in either of the two holes shown below. NOTE: Steering movement should be bind free except for the restriction of the servo transmission. 3209 8122 - 3234 SPACER IN STEPS 1&2 USED TO LEVEL THE DRAG LINK WITH DIFFERENT SERVOS. 5240 1:1 1:1 8130 5253 8122 *3234 SPACER UNDERNEATH* 5281 8130 5242 5263 - 3234 SPACER IN STEPS 1&2 USED TO LEVEL THE DRAG LINK WITH DIFFERENT SERVOS. 5246 Collar STEP #3 5246 Ball Cup 5228 SHORT Rod 5246 Tubing Throttle Rod Assembly: - Thread the 5228 Throttle Rod into 5246 Ball Cup. 5228 - Slide the parts shown on the Throttle Rod, LONG Rod secure the collars using 5282 set screws. - Mount the 5246 Swivel onto the Servo Horn thru the outer most SMALL diameter holes. Attach using either the plastic or steel snap-clip. 5246 Swivel 5246 Collar 5215 Brake Rod Assembly: - Thread the 5228 Brake Rod half way into the 5215 Ball End. Press the 5215 Pivot Ball into the Ball End. - Slide 5246 Collar onto the Brake Rod followed by 5246 Tubing. -Mount the Brake Rod to the Servo Horn by placing 5201 Screw thru the Pivot Ball and 5232 Cone Spacer into the INNER most hole on the arm opposite the Throttle Linkage Swivel. Secure using 5204 Locknut. 5246 Collar 5201 NOTE: For illustrative purposes the motor has been placed in the car. You will want to mount the motor after you have completed the Cage assembly step. Installation: - Slide the open end of the Brake Rod thru the front of the Brake Cam. - Slide 5246 Tubing Followed by 5246 Collar on the Brake Rod. - Secure all Collars using 5282 Set Screws. - Align the servo so it has equal throw in both directions. Press the Servo Horn onto the Servo so that the Servo Horn is perpendicular to the Servo Body as shown. Attach using the screw that came with your servo. - Trim the remaining length of the Servo Horn on the Brake Linkage side to prevent collision with the Sprint Cage. It may be necessary to bend the Brake Cam upward to allow for proper clearance with the Sprint Cage as well. LINKAGE SET-UP: -To be done with the radio unit ON! - Keep the servo positioned at idle as shown in Figure #1 #1! Might be necessary to re-align both the Steering Servo Saver and the Throttle Servo Horn once the radio is “ON” and the servos find their actual center. Throttle Linkage: Loosen the collar on the right side of the Swivel and slide the Rod so that the carb can fully close. Next slide the right side collar up against the Swivel and tighten. Lastly adjust the left side collar so that it compresses the spring 1/8” to 3/16”. Brake Linkage: Slide the Tubing on the Brake Rod so the Tubing is tight to the Brake Cam and the brake is only slightly engaged to the brake pad, there should be slight resistance when trying to spin the spur gear. -Within your radio locate the End Point Adjustments (EPA) setting. Here you will reduce the amount of travel your servo has so that you do not damage your carb. Notice the carb position in Figure #2, this is FULL throttle to the motor and the servo should pull no further than this. -Set the Braking End Point so that at full brake (Figure #3) the spring on the throttle linkage is just about fully compressed. -Set the EPA for the Steering Servo as well, so that it will only turn the amount the car will allow it. Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 5246 Servo Horn 5232 5204 5246 Steel or Plastic Clutch Bag Clutch Assembly -Parts for Clutch Bag 4430 Qty 1 Flywheel 4437 Collet Qty 1 4435 Qty 2 Clutch Shoe 4442 Qty 1 SG Nut 4431 Qty 2 Clutch Spring 4440 Qty 1 Clutch Bell 4523 Qty 1 23T Pinion 4438 Qty 1 Flanged Bearing 4439 Qty 1 Clutch Bearing 5208 Qty 1 M3x6mm SH - Slide the 4437 Collet onto you motor followed by the 4430 Flywheel. - Secure the Flywheel using 4442 SG Nut. - Place the 4435 Clutch Shoes onto the clutch facing the direction shown and secure with 4431 Clutch Springs. NOTE: Install the springs by placing one leg on the Shoe, then press the other leg into the groove in the Clutch Nut using a Driver Wrench. - Slide 4438 Bearing onto the motor shaft followed by the 4440 Clutch Bell then the 4439 Flanged Bearing. - Secure the assembly using 5208 Screw. The clutch bell should spin “FREELY” with the screw tight. It is OK if the clutch bell slides back and forth on the motor shaft slightly. If there is too much play use the extra shims provided to correct this. - Thread the 4523 Pinion Gear onto the Clutch Bell with the side of the pinion with the threads all the way to the edge facing AWAY from the motor. 4430 4435 4440 4431 4523 4438 4437 4442 4439 5208 Cage Bag Cage Assembly -Parts for Step #1 & Step #2 -Parts for Step#3 & Step#4 1:1 3233 Qty 2 Rear Bumper 3233 Qty1 Bumper Connector 3239 Qty1 Front Cage Mount 3233 Qty 1 Front Bumper 3235 Qty 2 Main Cage Half 5255 Qty 4 4-40 x 5/8 BH Screw 3232 Qty 1 Nerf Bar L & R 1:1 5279 Qty 2 Hole Head Screw LONG 5254 Qty 6 4-40 x 1/2 BH Screw 3232 Qty 1 Nerf Support L & R 1:1 5278 Qty 2 4-40 x 1” SH Screw 1:1 1:1 5253 Qty 2 4-40 x 3/8 BH Screw 3235 Qty 2 Upper Cage Brace 1:1 5280 Qty 2 Hole Head Screw SHORT 1:1 5262 Qty 2 4-40 x 1/4 FH Screw 3421 Qty 2 Wing Slide Bushing 1:1 1:1 5274 Qty 4 4-40 x 1/2 SH Screw STEP #1 5264 Qty 3 4-40 x 1/2 FH Screw 5253 3233 - Mount the (2) 3233 Rear Bumpers together using 5253 Screws and the 3233 Bumper Connector. -Attach the Bumper Assembly to the Rear Bulkhead using 5255 Screw into the upper bumper and 5254 Screw into the lower bumper as shown. 5255 3233 5254 3233 5253 STEP #2 - Mount the 3239 Front Cage mount to the chassis using 5262 Screws. STEP #3 - Assemble the Nerf Bar and Nerf Bar Support using 5254 Screw. NOTE: Right and Left Nerf Bars and Supports come in the cage kit. Shown is the RIGHT assembled part. When using the correct Support with the Nerf Bar, the bottom foot of the Support and the short leg of the Nerf Bar will be parallel. 5254 Parallel to one another! 3239 5262 5262 STEP #4 - Mount 3233 Front Bumper using 5278 Screws. - Mount the 3241 Wing Slide Bushing to the Cage using 5255 Screws 5255 thru the Bushing and Cage and into the 3235 Upper Cage Brace. - Use the (2) Long 5279 Hole Head Screws mount the 3235 Upper Cage Braces onto the top of the Main Cage Halfs. 3235 - Use the remaining (2) Short 5280 Hole Head Screws MAIN CAGE in the back of the Main Cage Halfs. NOTE: Do NOT tighten all the way down, leave a gap of .100”between the screw head and cage. - After completing the Body Panel steps, Attach 3233 the rear of the Nerf Bar using the 5254 Screw thru the cage as shown. Attach the 5278 front of the Nerf Bar and the Nerf Bar Support to the bottom of the “legs” on the 5274 Main Cage Half using 5274 Screws. “HOOKS” CAGE INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL: - Place the cage between the front suspension tower with the “HOOKS” slightly further forward the the front edge of the chassis. - Guide the “HOOKS” into the Front Cage Mount while guiding the Short 5280 Hole Head Screws into the Rear Bulkhead. - Position the (2) 5274 Screws that will mount the nerf bar to the bottom of the Cage Half into the holes in the Chassis. - Lock the cage by placing 9036 Clip into the Hole in the Head of the 5280 Screw. 5279 LONG 3421 CAGE BRACE 5280 SHORT 5254 - Remove this area of the cage to clearance the motor. Wire 5274 cutters will do a good job. - Trim 1/4” off the bottom of this post to clearance the exhaust mount. Body Panel Bag Body Panel Prep & Mounting HOLE #5 HOLE #2 HOLE #1 HOLE #3 HOLE #4 HOLE #3 HOLE #4 - Do these steps BEFORE painting your body panels!!! - Cut the 9024 Left Body Panel to fit the Body Template provided. - Use the Body Template ONLY to cut the front edge of the Right Body Panel. - Follow the molded lines on the 9029 Eagle Hood and 9026 Tail Tank. - Addtional trimming may be required to clearance suspension movements. BODY HOLE NOTES: HOLE #1: Fit the Side Panels and Hood to the Cage, make a mark where the Body Post meets the Hood. HOLE #2: Using the Body Template, make a mark where noted on the Template. Use a small screw to mount. HOLE #3, #4 & #5: Use the provided body line or mark molded into the Body Panel. Top Wing - Assemble the #9021 Wing Kit using the instructions provided inside the wing kit. Mount the wing to the car and it should now look just like the car shown below. CONGRATULATIONS!!! You have now completed the assembly process of your new Custom Works Nitro Enforcer GSX2! In the next section of this manual you will find some basic setup hints and advice. It is important to remember that all tracks and racing surfaces are different. Therefore the suggestions we give you are general in nature and should by no means be treated as the only options. MAINTENANCE: Occasionally dirt will get into the moving and pivoting locations in your car. It is best to periodically clean your car to keep all the suspension components moving freely. Read the tips below to keep your car running at its best! - Begin by removing the majority of the dirt using a small brush, toothbrush, or compressed air. - Compressed air is ok to use, be mindful to not FORCE the dirt into the radio gear, transmission, bearings, or air filter. Typically these items only have dirt on them, hitting the dirt with the compressed air puts dirt IN these parts! - Tires, either foam or rubber are best cleaned using water or cleaners like Simple Green (TM). Simple Green also does a great job cleaning car parts as well. Lightly spraying car parts (NOT radio components, transmission, air filter, or bearings) with Simple Green and blowing off with compressed air or wiping the parts using the paint brush is a great way to clean in a hurry. - Another R/C friendly cleaner is WD-40 (TM). After the car is clean, very lightly spray the car components and bearings (NOT radio components, transmission, or air filter). Use your brush or compressed air to remove the extra WD-40. This will lube your bearings and leave a protective coating on the parts making it easier to remove dirt later. - Differential Maintenance is needed when the action of the diff feels “notchy”. Usually cleaning the diff parts, re-sand the thrust and diff plates with 400 paper, and lube appropriately will be all that is needed to bring back to new. Ignoring your differential will lead to handling woes and increase transmission temps, which will cause part failure. TUNING TIPS: These are some general guidelines for optimizing handling performance. None of these “tips” are EVER set in stone. On any given day this manual or any chassis engineering book or guru can be proved wrong by the stop watch. A good way to approach chassis set-up is to try one change, practice it, think how the car felt different from before, and compare lap times from the stop watch…..this will never fail. Car Pushes (understeers): - Decrease Wing Angle - Decrease Spoiler on Wing - Heavier Rear Spring - Softer Front Spring - Use Rear Sway Bar - Try Softer Front Compound Tire - Try Harder Rear Compound Tire - Lower Front Ride Height - Raise Rear Ride Height - Thread Shock Collar UP on Right Front - Thread Shock Collar DOWN on Right Rear - Decrease Rear Toe - Decrease Castor - Add Rear Toe Stagger or Increase the difference Car Is Loose (oversteers): - Increase Wing Angle - Add Spoiler to Wing - Softer Rear Spring - Heavier Front Spring - Use Front Sway Bar - Try Harder Front Compound Tire - Try Softer Rear Compound Tire - Raise Front Ride Height - Lower Rear Ride Height - Thread Shock Collar DOWN on Right Front - Thread Shock Collar UP on Right Rear - Increase Rear Toe - Increase Castor - Decrease Rear Toe Stagger or Decrease the difference Car Is Erratic: - Bent Suspension Pins: Remove shocks to check free movement. - Bound Ball Joint: Should spin free on balls while mounted to the car. - Bent or Loose Camber Links - Wore out Bearings or Completely Seized Bearings - Chunked Tire: Check to see if Foam or Rubber Tire is still glued to wheel. - Loose Screws: Especially Chassis Screws, add Blue Loctite to prevent. - Shocks: Either Bound-up or Out of Oil. Must swivel freely on mounts. - Foreign Objects: Unlucky Dirt/Stones preventing Suspension or Steering Movement. - Blown Differential - Radio Problem: Bad Servo, Weak Servo Saver Spring, Transmitter Pot blown. SET-UP GUIDELINES: When looking for the “perfect set-up” it is important to remember 2 things... 1) Keeping things simple is best. 2) As you are making your set-up change, the track is changing too! Ask a local racer what the track usually does from begining to end, especially day to night. - Start your car’s ride height with it equal at all four corners to start. Use the shock collars to adjust ride height by measuring the distance under the chassis when the car is sitting on a FLAT & LEVEL surface. - Shock collars can only jack weight and adjust the car’s handling when the car makes ALL 4 shocks squat when the car is set down. Use the RF shock collar to adjust how the car ENTERS the corner. Use the RR shock collar to adjust how the car exits the corner ON-POWER. Use the LF shock collar to make the car turn in less, and off the corner more. - It is best to have a little bit of brake drag when you let off the gas, this will allow for a more controlable car in ALL conditions. Increasing how much the brake drags will make your car turn into the corner harder. SET-UP GLOSSARY: Caster: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car. Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn and down the straights and increase steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel more “touchy” at high speeds and help steering while exiting the turn. Camber Gain: Angle of the Camber Link relative to the Suspension Arm. Lowering the camber link on the shock tower OR raising the camber link on the castor block will INCREASE the camber angle of the tire when the suspension is compressed. Raising the camber link on the shock tower OR lowering the camber link on the castor block will DECREASE the camber angle of the tire when the suspension is compressed. There is not a “correct” set-up and once again too much of anything is generally bad. This will help change the “feel” of the car thru the turns. Camber Link Length: Comparing this to the length of the Suspension Arm from each pivot point and keeping the Camber the same, making the link shorter will decrease traction for that corner of the car while making it longer will increase traction for that corner of the car. Once the camber link is equal to or greater than the Suspension Arm pivots, the gain of traction ends. Also a shorter camber link will increase camber gain and a longer decrease camber gain. Shock Angle: Leaning the shock toward the car is effectively like changing to a softer spring. Standing the shock closer to vertical is effectively like changing to a stiffer spring. Try when the car is working well and when one spring change is TOO much for your set-up. Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on the track. Having the front end higher than the rear will make the car increase rear traction especially out of the turn. Having the front end lower than the front will make the car increase front traction especially entering the turn. Generally its safe to start the car with the ride heights even. Rear Toe-In: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the car. Increasing the angle toward the car will increase rear traction while decreasing front traction. Decreasing the angle will do the opposite. Rear Toe Stagger: Difference in the amount of Rear Toe-In among the rear tires. Typically used only on high bite tracks with MORE toe-in on the Left Rear tire than the Right so the rear of the car helps turn the car LEFT under acceleration. Wheelbase (Front End): Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles. Running the entire front end assembly in the forward position makes the wheelbase longer and therefore more stable on long/fast tracks with flowing turns. Running the entire front end assembly in the rear position make the wheelbase shorter and therefore more suitable for short-tracks where you are constantly turning. Wheelbase (Rear End): This adjustment uses the plastic spacers on the kingpin the rear bearing carrier rides on. With the spacers in front of the carrier it will lengthen the wheelbase but will increase steering. If the spacers are behind the carrier it will shorten the wheelbase but increase rear traction. This is completely backwards from how it works for the Front End only because in the rear of the car you have the weight of the motor and the torque it creates. Shortening the wheelbase here makes more of the car hang over the rear tires and promotes more weight transfer. Final Drive Chart: The chart provided below gives you the final drive of the motor to spin the axle 1 revolution. This chart is NOT just the pinion and spur, but has the transmission ratio included as well. To determine the final drive in your car: 1) Divide the Spur Gear by the Pinion Gear, which equals a “Ratio”. 2) Multiply the “Ratio” by the “Transmission Ratio”, which will equal your “Final Drive”. DRIVER:_______________________________ Clay Hard Packed Loose Dirt DATE:_________________________________ Carpet Asphalt Concrete EVENT________________________________ Flat Banked True Oval Tri-Oval CLASS:________________________________ Traction: High Medium Low TRACK:_________________LENGTH:_______ FRONT SUSPENSION RIGHT CAMBER:____________ INNER CAMBER RATE SHIMS: __________________ CAMBER LINK LOCATION OUTER AXLE SHIMS: _____ ACKERMANN: ON SPINDLE SHORT MIDDLE LONG FRONT AXLE: CASTOR: 0O 0O O O STOCK +5 -5 -5O O KICK-UP: 25 EXTENDED +10O -10O -10O 20O HIGH 20O LO O HIGH O LO AXLE SHIMS: _____ 15 15 REAR SUSPENSION LEFT CAMBER LINK LOCATION OUTER INNER CAMBER RATE SHIMS: __________________ ACKERMANN: ON SPINDLE SHORT MIDDLE LONG FRONT AXLE: CASTOR: STOCK +5O EXTENDED +10O SHOCKS COLLAR LENGTH CAMBER:____________ RF LEAD TRAIL AMOUNT:_______ SWAY BAR: NONE .063 .078” CAMBER LINK LOCATION OUTER LEFT TOE IN/OUT _____ RIGHT CAMBER LINK LOCATION INNER INNER OUTER SHOCK LENGTH LEFT FRONT SHOCK BODY LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SHAFT LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SPRING:______________________ OIL:__________ PISTON:_________ BLADDER:_____________________ LENGTH:______________________ COLLAR:______________________ LEFT REAR SHOCK BODY LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SHAFT LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SPRING:______________________ OIL:__________ PISTON:_________ BLADDER:_____________________ LENGTH:______________________ COLLAR:______________________ RIGHT FRONT SHOCK BODY LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SHAFT LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SPRING:______________________ OIL:__________ PISTON:_________ BLADDER:_____________________ LENGTH:______________________ COLLAR:______________________ RIGHT REAR SHOCK BODY LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SHAFT LENGTH SHORT MED LONG SPRING:______________________ OIL:__________ PISTON:_________ BLADDER:_____________________ LENGTH:______________________ COLLAR:______________________ WEIGHT & CHASSIS HEIGHTS HUB SPACING: F R CAMBER:________ TOE-IN: _________ WHEEL SPACERS: _______________ SWAY BAR: NONE .063” .078” REAR WIDTH (INNER/OUTER) LR:____________RR:____________ TOE-BLOCK SHIMS: LR:____________RR:____________ ANTI-SQUAT SHIMS: LR:____________RR:____________ HUB SPACING: F R CAMBER:________ TOE-IN: _________ ADDED LEAD: FRONT_______ MIDDLE_______ REAR_________ Y [ X Z WHEEL SPACERS: _______________ -SHADE IN MOUNTING LOCATIONS ON SUSPENSION ARMS, BEARING CARRIER AND SHOCK TOWER. TIRE TYPE: TIRES & TRACTION FOAM STREET RUBBER LOOSE DIRT COMPOUND DIAMETER INSERT RF: _______________________ _______ ________ LF: _______________________ _______ ________ RR: _______________________ _______ ________ LR: _______________________ _______ ________ TRACTION ADDITIVE:_____________________________ _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ WING HIGH WING LF RF X YZ[\ A B C HOOD TYPE:_______________________ RECIEVER AS SHOWN _________ CORNER WEIGHTS: LF:___________ RF:___________ LR:___________ RR:___________ LR RR MISC... MAIN WING SIZE: 6X6 7X7 FRONT WING SIZE:__________________ SPOILER LENGTH:___________________ WING LOCATION:___________________ LOW WING -SHADE IN AREAS OF TRACTION ADDITIVE AND DRAW IN TIRE GROOVES MOTOR: ______________________ PIPE:_________________________ FUEL:_________________________ PINION:_________ SPUR:_________ CLUTCH TYPE: STOCK(2) 3-SHOE OTHER:______________________ CLUTCH SPRING: STOCK #4320 OTHER:______________________ NOTES:_______________________ _____________________________ _____________________________ OVERALL WEIGHT: _______ RECIEVER PACK CHASSIS HEIGHTS BY LOCATION: X____________ ____________ Y Z____________ ____________ [ MEASURED FROM: TOP OF CHASSIS BOTTOM OF CHASSIS ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
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