Dynacraft | ELECTRIC POWER SCOOTER | Owner`s manual | Dynacraft ELECTRIC POWER SCOOTER Owner`s manual

Dynacraft ELECTRIC POWER SCOOTER Owner`s manual
, Inc.
OWNERS MANUAL
FOR SINGLE SPEED AND MULTI-SPEED BICYCLES
This manual contains important safety, performance and maintenance information.
Read the manual before taking your first ride on your new bicycle,
and keep the manual handy for future reference.
HELMETS
SAVE
LIVES !!!
ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY
FITTED HELMET WHEN
YOU RIDE YOUR BICYCLE.
DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT.
AVOID RIDING IN WET
CONDITIONS.
CORRECT FITTING - MAKE
SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS
YOUR FOREHEAD.
INCORRECT FITTING. FOREHEAD
IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE
TO SERIOUS INJURY.
Dynacraft
Customer Service
1.800.551.0032
7AM TO 4PM PACIFIC TIME
Please have the following information available when you call:
Model Number:
(Sample: 8595-95)
Production Date:
(Sample: 2003.10.10)
Serial Number:
(Sample: 03TD5899988)
Having this information is required and helps us handle your call
more effectively. For help on where to find this information please
see page IV.
STOP
I.
DO NOT Return this Product to the Store.
Please Call Dynacraft for Assistance.
PLEASE RETAIN YOUR SALES RECEIPT AS PROOF
OF PURCHASE. FILL OUT THE INFORMATION BELOW
AND KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SAFE PLACE.
BRAND/DESCRIPTION:___________________________________________________
MODEL#:_______________________________________________________________
PRODUCTION DATE:____________________________________________________
SERIAL#:_______________________________________________________________
DATE OF PURCHASE:____________________________________________________
STORE/PLACE OF PURCHASE:___________________________________________
II.
ABOUT THIS MANUAL
This manual was written to help you get the most performance, comfort, enjoyment and safety when riding your new bicycle.
It is important for you to understand your new bike. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to
get the most from your new bicycle.
It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and
other cyclists.
GENERAL WARNING
Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bicycle is your responsibility as it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of
failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle. Many of the warnings and cautions say, “you may lose control and fall.” Because any
fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not repeat the warning of possible injury or death whenever the risk of falling is
mentioned.
Dynacraft does not encourage stunting, trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe
climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities, or any similar activities; such use is inherently dangerous, can cause serious
injury to the rider, and if done it is with the rider’s express and implied assumption of the risk of such use and Dynacraft shall not have
any responsibility for any break down of the bicycle, its components or rider injuries that occur during such use.
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS
It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the
activities and safety of your minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle which your child is riding
is properly fitted to the child: that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned, understand
and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle, and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and
responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual before letting your child ride the bicycle. Please make sure that
your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding.
Note: The illustrations in this manual are used simply to provide examples; the components of your bicycle might
differ. In addition, some of the parts shown might be optional and not part of the bicycle’s standard equipment.
III.
The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of
maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you
consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or
maintain your bicycle. You will save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or
call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.
DYNACRAFT CUSTOMER SERVICE
1.800.551.0032
7AM TO 4PM PACIFIC TIME
Dynacraft BSC, Inc.
89 S. Kelly Rd.
American Canyon, CA 94503
Customer Service 1-800-551-0032
www.dynacraftbikes.com
Model Number
& Production Date
Serial Number
IV.
DIRECTORY
Index
..............................................................................................1
Parts Identification
..........................................................................................2-4
Before You Ride
........................................................................................5-20
Assembly
......................................................................................21-53
How Things Work
......................................................................................54-64
? Servicing
......................................................................................65-67
Detailed Maintenance
......................................................................................68-99
Registration Card
and Warranty
..................................................................................100-102
Dynacraft BSC, Inc.
Warning / Important
Take notice of this symbol throughout this manual and
pay particular attention to the instructions blocked off and
preceded by this symbol.
89 S. Kelly Road American Canyon, CA 94503
V.
Customer Service 1-800-551-0032 www.dynacraftbikes.com
2. BEFORE YOU RIDE
Correct Frame Size
Riding Position
-Saddle Height
-Reach
-Handlebar Height
Rules of the Road
Safety Checklist
-Brakes
-Wheels & Tires
-Steering
-Chain
-Bearings
-Cranks & Pedals
-Derailleurs
-Frame & Fork
-Accessories
-Helmets
-Reflectors
Gears - How to Operate
-Derailleur Gears
-Operating Principles
-Hand Grip Shifters
-Thumb Shifters
-Below the Bar Shifters
Bicycle Care
-Basic Maintenance
-Storage
-Security
2
3
4
5
9
9
9
10
6-7
11
11
11
12
12
11
12
12
12
12
14-15
16
16
17
18
18
19
20
20
3. ASSEMBLY
Derailleur Geared Bicycle
Handlebars
Forks
Seat and Seat Post
Pedals & Crank Set
Front Wheel
Quick Release Axle
21
22
24
25
26
21
25
Brakes
-Cantilever with Link Wire
-Cantilever with Straddle Cable
-V-Style
-Check your Brakes
-Disk Brakes
27
28
30
32
33
Derailleur
-Rear Derailleur
-Front Derailleur
34
35
Dual Suspension
Rear Pivots
Accessories
Reflectors
Final Check
36
37
38
38
39
Single Speed & BMX
Handlebars
Seat
Pedals & Crank Set
Frontwheel
Front Brake
Side Pull Brake
Cantilever with Link Wire
V-Brake
U-Brake
Check your Brakes
Training Wheels
Rotors
Final Check
40
41
42
42
40
43
43
44
46
48
49
49
50
53
Saddle & Seat Post
-Inspection
-Lubrication
-Adjustment
78
78
79
Brakes
-Inspection
-Lubrication
-Adjustment Sidepull Calipers
-Adjustment Cantilever Calipers
80
81
81
82
Drivetrain
Pedals
-Inspection
-Lubrication & Adjustment
-Attachment
84
84
85
85
4. HOW THINGS WORK
-A. Wheel Quick Release
-B. Seatpost Quick Release
-C. Brakes
-D. Shifting
-E. Toeclips & Straps
-F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals
-G. Tires and Tubes
-H. Bicycle Suspension
5. SERVICING
Schedule 1 - Lubrication
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist
Tools Required
54
55
56
57
58-60
62-63
64
6. DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Wheel Inspection
Tire Inspection
Tire Pressures
Hub Bearing Adjustment
Flat Tire Repair
Handlebar Stem
Handlebars
68
69
69
70
70
72
73
Grip Shift Installation
74
Cables & Cable Housing
76
Headset
-Inspection
-Adjustment
77
77
Crank Set
-Inspection
-Lubrication & Adjustment
(one piece cranks)
-Lubrication & Adjustment
(cotterless cranks)
-Chain
-Inspection
-Lubrication
-Adjustment & Replacement
-Freewheel
-Inspection
-Lubrication
-Coaster Hub
90
90
91
91
92
91
92
92
Derailleur Systems
-Inspection
-Lubrication
-Adjustment (Rear)
-Adjustment (Front)
93
95
94
94
Reflectors
Troubleshooting
7. Registration Card
& Warranty
INDEX
1. PARTS IDENTIFICATION
Mountain Bicycles
BMX Bicycles
Road Bicycles
96
97-99
100-102
86
86
87
88
65
66
67
01
PA R T S I D E N T I F I C AT I O N
Mountain Bicycles . Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces. The wider
handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims and tires give them a softer ride with
more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain bicycles are much sturdier than those on racing style bicycles.
Shift Lever
Handlebar
Top Tube
Brake Lever
Seat
Brake Control Cables
Seat Post
Quick Release
Seat Stay
Handlebar Stem
Front Reflector
Head Set
Front Brake
Head Tube
Front Fork
Rear Reflector
Wheel Reflector
Rear Brake
Wheel Reflector
Freewheel
Seat Tube
Front Hub
Down Tube
Spokes
Gear Control Cable
Front Derailleur
Bottom
Bracket Axle
Rim
Tire
Chain Wheel
Crank Arm
Pedal
Gear Control
Cable
02
Rear Derailleur
Chainstay
Chain
Tire Valve
Brake Lever
Handlebar
Seat
Handlebar Grip
Seat Post
Handlebar Stem
Seat Post Binder Bolt
Brake Control Cable
Head Set
Seat Stay
Rear Reflector
Reflector
Head Tube
Front Brake
Top Tube
Brake Pad
Wheel Reflector
Front Fork
Wheel Reflector
Front Hub
PA R T S I D E N T I F I C AT I O N
BMX Bicycles . BMX bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They are
valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.
Spokes
Seat Tube
Down Tube
Chain Wheel
Crank Arm
Pedal
Chain
Rear Sprocket
Training Wheels
Rim
Tire
Tire Valve
(16” and smaller)
03
PA R T S I D E N T I F I C AT I O N
Road Bicycles .Road bikes are designed for fast travel, hard training and competition on paved surfaces exclusively. It is the
lightest, most aerodynamic and “fastest” type of bicycle.
Shift Lever
Handlebar
Top Tube
Front Reflector
Seat
Brake Lever
Seat Post
Rear Reflector
Quick Release
Handlebar Stem
Brake Control Cables
Head Set
Front Brake
Head Tube
Front Fork
Seat Stay
Wheel Reflector
Rear Brake
Wheel Reflector
Freewheel
Seat Tube
Front Hub
Down Tube
Spokes
Gear Control Cable
Front Derailleur
Bottom
Bracket Axle
Rim
Tire
Chain Wheel
Crank Arm
Pedal
Gear Control
Cable
04
Rear Derailleur
Chainstay
Chain
Tire Valve
When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration.
For safe and comfortable riding there should be a clearance of not less than 1 inch between
the groin area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider
straddles the bicycle with both feet flat on the ground.
The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame
when off the saddle easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops. Women can use a men’s style
bicycle to determine the correct size women’s model.
BEFORE YOU RIDE
CORRECT FRAME SIZE
SAFE SIZING FOR JUVENILE AND SIDEWALK BICYCLES
It is assumed that the bicycle you have bought is sized correctly for the user. Some parents make the mistake of
buying a bicycle too large for the intended rider, planning on the child "growing into" it. There should be a minimum
of one inch clearance above the highest point of the top tube when the child is straddling the bicycle with both feet
on the ground (see drawing below).
Warning: If the bicycle is too large the rider cannot reach the pedals easily, or the ground when
stopping which may result in loss of control and/or injury.
Not less than25-50mm
1 inch.
Not less than 1 inch.
05
BEFORE YOU RIDE
06
RULES OF THE ROAD AND SAFETY TIPS
NOTE: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the
responsibility for that risk. Not the people who sold you the bike. Not the people who made it. Not the people who distribute it. Not the people who manage or maintain the roads and trails you ride on. YOU. So you need to know - and to
practice - the rules of safe and responsible riding.
1. IN THE INTEREST OF SAFER CYCLING, MAKE SURE YOU READ AND UNDERSTAND YOUR OWNER’S MANUAL.
2. NOTICE: Some state and locals laws may require that your bicycle be equipped with a warning device such as a horn or bell
and a light if the bicycle is to be ridden after dark.
3. ALWAYS WEAR SHOES when riding a bicycle AND AVOID LOOSE FITTING CLOTHES.
4. CHECK YOUR BRAKES FREQUENTLY. THE ABILITY TO STOP YOUR BICYCLE IS CRITICAL. Roads are slippery in wet
weather so avoid sharp turns and allow more distance stopping. Caliper brakes may become less efficient when wet. Leaves,
loose gravel, and other debris can also effect stopping.
5. ALWAYS RIDE IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS TRAFFIC. Never ride against traffic.
6. STOP AND LOOK BEFORE YOU LEAVE AN ALLEY, DRIVEWAY OR PARKING LOT. Stop, look to the left, to the right and to
the left again for traffic. Ride only when it is clear.
7. KEEP TO THE RIGHT. Follow the traffic flow in a straight line and stay close to the curb. Watch for cars moving in and out of
traffic.
8. OBEY ALL TRAFFIC REGULATIONS. Most traffic regulations apply to bike riders as well as automobile operators.
9. ALWAYS RIDE ALONE. NEVER CARRY OTHER RIDERS. This is dangerous and makes the bike harder to control. The
bicycles distributed by Dynacraft BSC, Inc. are intended for one rider only.
10. ALWAYS BE ALERT. Be ALERT - pedestrians have the right away. Be ALERT - when riding near parked cars - ride far
enough away from the cars so that you won’t get hit if somone opens their car door.
11. USE CAUTION AT ALL INTERSECTIONS AND STOP SIGNS. STOP AND LOOK BOTH WAYS BEFORE PROCEEDING.
12. USE HAND SIGNALS. Communicate by using hand signals to tell other drivers what you are going to do. Signal 100 feet
before the turning unless your hand is needed to control the bike.
LEFT
STOP
RIGHT
BEFORE YOU RIDE
13. HAVE PROPER LIGHTS AND REFLECTORS. IF YOU RIDE AT NIGHT, be sure to have a strong headlight, a tail light, and
a full set of reflectors. CHECK THAT REFLECTORS ARE CLEAN, STRAIGHT, UNBROKEN, AND SECURELY MOUNTED.
14. NEVER CARRY PACKAGES OR OBJECTS WHICH OBSTRUCT VISION.
15. NEVER HITCH RIDES, Never hold onto a moving vehicle while riding.
16. THE KICKSTAND IS DESIGNED TO SUPPORT THE BICYCLE ONLY, not the bicycle and the rider.
17. AVOID THE FOLLOWING HAZARDS: Drain grates, potholes, soft road edges, gravel, sand, wet leaves, and/or any
obstruction in the road. Failure to do so could cause wheel(s) to buckle and result in personal injury to the rider.
18. WET WEATHER RIDING - Riding your bicycle in wet conditions is not recommended. In wet conditions traction and braking
power is reduced. Riding in such conditions could result in personal injury.
19. PROPER HELMET USE. A helmet that meets the CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Commission) standard should always
be worn when riding a bicycle. The helmet should fit properly and worn on the crown of the head, not tipped back.
20. USE BIKE LANES when available. Also note that in certain states, cars may use bike lanes when turning.
21. Respect “Bicycles Are Prohibited” signs.
07
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Pedaling Technique
- Position the ball of your foot on the center of the pedal.
- When pedaling, ensure your knees are parallel to the bicycle frame.
- To absorb shock, keep your elbows slightly bent.
- Learn to operate the gears properly. (Refer to p. 16-18)
Hill Technique
-
Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed.
If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from each pedal revolution.
On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling.
Do not exceed a comfortable speed, maintain control and take additional care.
Cornering Technique
Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o'clock
position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don't pedal through
fast or tight corners.
Rules for Children
To avoid accidents, teach children good riding skills with an emphasis on safety from an early age.
1. Always wear a properly fitted helmet.
2. Do not play in driveways or the road.
3. Do not ride on busy streets.
4. Do not ride at night.
5. Obey all the traffic laws, especially stop signs and red lights.
6. Be aware of other road vehicles behind and nearby.
7. Before entering a street: Stop, look left, right, and left again for traffic.
If there's no traffic, proceed into the roadway.
8. If riding downhill, be extra careful. Slow down using the brakes and maintain control of the steering.
9. Never take your hands off the handlebars, or your feet off the pedals when riding downhill.
The Consumer Product Safety Commission advises that the riding of small wheel diameter
bicycles at excessive speeds can lead to instability and is not recommended.
Children should be made aware of all possible riding hazards and correct riding behavior before they take to the streets
- Do not leave it up to trial and error.
08
Saddle Height
In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the
best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set
correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height
should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should
not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle
with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that
pedal. The correct saddle height will allow the knee to be slightly
bent in this position. If the rider then places the heel of that foot on
the pedal, the leg should be almost straight.
Maximum Height / Minimum Insertion Mark
(Should not be visible)
Arms not overextended
Handlebar stem
height about the
same as
seat height
BEFORE YOU RIDE
RIDING POSITION
Under no circumstances should the seat post project
from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark. If your seat post projects from the frame beyond these markings, the seat
post or frame may break, which could cause you to lose control
and fall. After any saddle adjustment, be sure to tighten the saddle adjusting mechanism properly before riding. A loose saddle
clamp or seat post binder can cause damage to the bicycle or
can cause you to lose control and fall. Periodically check to make
sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
Reach
To obtain maximum comfort, the rider should not overextend his or her
reach when riding.
Pedal at
bottom position
To adjust this distance, the position of the seat can be altered in
relation to the seat pillar. (Refer to p. 25 on how to adjust the seat
clamp.)
09
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Handlebar Height
Stem Wedge Bolt
Handlebar Binder Bolt
Exceeds 2 1/2”
(64mm)
Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is
equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights
to find the most comfortable position.
Maximum Height/
Minimum Insertion
Mark
Warning: Over tightening the stem
bolt or headset assembly may cause
damage to the bicycle and/or injury
to the rider.
The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset.
If the stem is extended beyond this mark, the stem may break or damage the fork’s
steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Failure to properly tighten the stem wedge bolt, the handlebar binder bolt, or the bar
end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause you
to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and
attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to
the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, you must tighten the appropriate bolts accordingly.
10
Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks:
(For information and instructions on performing specific equipment checks locate
the relevent section in the manual using the index on page 1)
1. Brakes
-
Ensure
Ensure
Ensure
Ensure
front and rear brakes work properly.
brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims.
brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted, and display no obvious wear.
brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar.
BEFORE YOU RIDE
SAFETY CHECKLIST
2. Steering
-
Ensure handlebar and stem are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.
Ensure that the handlebars are set correctly in relation to the forks and the direction of travel.
Check that the head set locking mechanism is properly adjusted and tightened.
If the bicycle is fitted with handlebar end extensions, ensure they are properly positioned and tightened.
3. Cranks and Pedals
- Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks.
- Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent.
4. Wheels and Tires
-
Ensure tires are inflated to within the maximum recommended limit as displayed on the tire sidewall.
Ensure tires have tread and have no bulges or excessive wear.
Ensure rims run true and have no obvious wobbles or kinks.
Ensure all wheel spokes are tight and not broken.
Check that axle nuts are tight.
11
BEFORE YOU RIDE
5. Chain
- Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly.
- Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions.
- On bicycles equipped with coaster brakes, check for proper chain tension.
6. Derailleurs
- Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly.
- Ensure control levers are securely attached.
- Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and control cables are properly lubricated.
7. Bearings
- Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling.
- Check headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings.
8. Frame and Fork
- Check that the frame and fork are not bent or broken.
- If either are bent or broken, they should be replaced.
9. Accessories
- Ensure that all reflectors are properly fitted and not obscured.
- Ensure all other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning.
- Ensure the rider is wearing a helmet.
12
It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, CSPC approved, bicycle
safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they must
also be wearing a helmet.
The correct helmet should:
- be comfortable
- be lightweight
- have good ventilation
- fit correctly
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Helmets
Always wear a properly fitted helmet when riding a bicycle. Many states require specific safety devices.
It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state where you ride and to comply
with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires. Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part of your bicycle. Federal regulations require most types of bicycles to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and pedal reflectors. These
reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a way that helps you to be
seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist. Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to
make sure they are clean, straight, unbroken, and securely mounted. Replace damaged reflectors and
straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
13
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Reflectors
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange)
reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace
immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will require you to install your reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the
following section for instructions on all the types of bicycle reflectors.
Note: CPSC regulations do not require reflectors on 10", 12" and 16" Sidewalk Bicycles
- we recommend, however, that you attach reflectors for the protection of the rider.
These types of bicycles should be operated during daylight hours only, on a smooth,
paved surface such as a sidewalk, under the direct supervision of an adult. These
bicycles should never be ridden in the street, on an incline, or on rough terrain. Under no
circumstances should these types of bicycles be operated at speeds that would make it
difficult to control, nor should it be raced or used for stunting, jumping, motocross, or
off-road use or other activities not normally associated with a Sidewalk Bicycle.
Fork Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly
Slide reflector over bracket as shown in diagram and insure that the tab clicks in to
the top hole of the bracket. Insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt
through the reflector bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer
onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten bolts until
snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position.
Wheel Reflectors
The wheel reflectors should come already attached to the spokes of both the front
and rear wheels. To attach reflector to the wheel, fit the groove in the reflector to a
spoke that matches the groove. The reflector should be mounted across from the
valve stem and as close to the rim as possible. The reflector should fit firmly
between a single spoke on one side and two spokes on the other. Use the supplied
clip (with two locking prongs), fit the clip over the spoke and into the hole and press
until the locking prongs “click” into place. be sure to fit reflectors to both wheels.
14
Slide reflector over bracket as shown in diagram (p.14) and ensure that the tab
clicks in to the top hole of the bracket. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the
clamping reflector bracket. Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or
seatpost. If the clamp is too loose, insert the shim inside of the clamp. Tighten the
clamp screw to hold reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram. Finally,
adjust the reflector assembly in place. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is
upright and facing away from the bike.
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Seat and Handlebar Mounting Reflectors
Seatstay Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly
Slide reflector over bracket as shown in diagram (P. 14) and ensure that the tab
clicks in to the top hole of the bracket. Insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert
hex bolt through the reflector bracket and then through the seatstay bridge. Next,
insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the
seatstay bridge. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright
position. See diagram at the right.
15
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Drivetrain
Freewheel
Cogs
Derailleur Control
Cable
Front Derailleur
Front Chainwheels
Guide Pulley
Crank Arm
Rear Derailleur
Pedal
GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE
Derailleur Gears
Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known as
derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mechanisms to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears or
cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady
pedaling pace under varying conditions. This means your riding will
be less tiring without unnecessary straining up hills or fast pedaling
down hill. Bicycles come with a variety of gear configurations from 5
to 27 speeds. A 5-6 speed bicycle will have a single front chainwheel, a rear derailleur, and 5 or 6 cogs on the rear hub. Bicycles
with more gears will also have a front derailleur, a front chainwheel
with 2-3 cogs, and up to 7 cogs on the rear hub.
Operating Principles
No matter how many gears, the operating principles are the same.
The front derailleur is operated by the left shift lever and the rear
derailleur by the right. To operate you must be pedaling forward. You
can not shift derailleur gears when you are stopped or when pedaling
backwards. Before shifting ease up on your pedaling pressure. For a
smooth gear change when approaching a hill, shift to a lower gear
BEFORE your pedaling speed slows down too much. When coming
to a stop, shift to a lower gear first so it will be easier when you start
riding again. If, after selecting a new gear position, you hear a slight
rubbing noise from the front or rear gears, gently adjust the appropriate
shifter using the barrel adjusters until the noise goes away. For optimal performance and extended chain life, it is recommended that you
avoid using the extreme combinations of gear positions (diagram p.
17) for extended periods.
16
1
3 2
3
High
4
6 5
2
1
Middle
Low
For optimal performance,
NOT RECOMMENDED
BEFORE YOU RIDE
4
6 5
1
3 2
2
High
1
Low
For optimal performance,
NOT RECOMMENDED
Recommended Chainwheel/Rear Sprocket Gear Combinations
Hand Grip Shifters
Front Low Gear
Rear Low Gear
Front High Gear
Rear High Gear
Many bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting mechanism
that is built into the handlebar grips and does not make use of
separate levers. (The shifting is built into the inside part of the grip
that allows the thumb and index finger around.) To select a lower
gear, twist the grip towards you to engage a larger rear cog. You
can shift one gear at a time by moving the shifter one click, or
through multiple gears by continuing twisting. By twisting the left
shifter forward or away from you, a smaller chainwheel can be
selected. To select a higher gear, twist the right shifter forward or
away from you to engage a smaller rear cog. To engage a larger
front chainwheel, twist the left shifter towards you. Note: some
bicycles may be equipped with a rear derailleur mechanism
that works in reverse to the directions above.
17
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Thumb Shifters (Top Mounted)
Left hand lever
Right hand lever
Many mountain style bicycles are equipped with shifters
mounted on the top of the handlebars and operated by the thumbs.
To select a lower, easier gear, shift to a bigger rear cog and a small
chainwheel. Pull the left shifter back to operate the front derailleur,
and push the right shifter forward to operate the rear derailleur. To
select a higher, harder gear, shift to a smaller rear cog and a larger
chainwheel. Push the left shifter forward for the front, and pull the
right lever back for the rear.
Top Gear
(Harder)
Small rear sprocket
Large chainwheel
Bottom Gear
(Easier)
Large rear sprocket
Small chainwheel
Left hand lever forward
Right hand lever back
Left hand lever back
Right hand lever forward
Below the Bar Shifters
Left hand lever
18
Right hand lever
Many mountain style bicycles now use a shift lever arrangement
mounted on the underside of the handlebars, which use two levers
operated by the thumb and index finger. To select a lower gear push
the larger (lower) right shifter with your thumb to engage a larger rear
cog. One firm push shifts the chain one cog, continuing to push will
move the chain over multiple cogs. Pulling the smaller (upper) left
shifter with your index finger moves the chain from a larger to a smaller
chainwheel. To select a higher gear pull the smaller (upper) right
lever with your index finger to engage a smaller rear cog. Pushing
the larger (lower) left lever with your thumb will move the chain from a
smaller to a larger chainwheel.
Basic Maintenance
The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding.
For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth
soaked in a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean
plastic parts and rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid.
Store your bicycle under shelter. Avoid leaving it in the rain or exposed to corrosive materials.
Riding on the beach or in coastal areas exposes your bicycle to salt which is very corrosive. Wash your bicycle
frequently and wipe or spray all unpainted parts with an anti-rust treatment. Make sure wheel rims are dry so braking
performance is not affected. After rain, dry your bicycle and apply anti-rust treatment.
BEFORE YOU RIDE
BICYCLE CARE
If the hub and bottom bracket bearings of your bicycle have been submerged in water, they should be taken out and
re-greased. This will prevent accelerated bearing deterioration.
If paint has become scratched or chipped to the metal, use touch up paint to prevent rust. Clear nail polish can also be
used as a preventative measure. Your local hobby shop will carry paints in small containers and a variety of colors that
you can use to touch up paint.
Regularly clean and lubricate all moving parts, tighten components and make adjustments as required. (Refer to Parts
5 and 6 of this manual for further details).
The selected use of alloy component and surface treatments helps prevent rust and corrosion from affecting some
areas of your bike.
19
BEFORE YOU RIDE
Storage
Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the sun. Ultraviolet rays may cause paint to fade or rubber
and plastic parts to crack.Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time, clean and lubricate all components and wax
the frame. Deflate the tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don't store near electric motors as ozone
emissions may effect the rubber and paint. Don't cover with plastic as "sweating” will result which may cause rusting.
Please notice that your bicycle warranty does not cover paint damage, rust, corrosion, dry rot, or theft.
Security
It is advisable that the following steps be taken to prepare for and help
prevent possible theft.
1. Maintain a record of the bicycle’s serial number, generally located
on the frame underneath the bottom bracket.
2. Register the bicycle with the local police.
3. Invest in a high quality bicycle lock that will resist hack saws and
bolt cutters. Always lock your bicycle to an immovable object if it
is left unattended.
20
Includes 20", 24” and 26" Wheel Mountain Bikes
Assembly is the same for men’s and women’s bikes.
.
Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper
assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it
also offers an important measure of safety.
Getting Started
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the straps
and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that the threads
and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to installation.
Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete to insure that
no required parts are accidentally discarded. Assemble your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model. Note: Your bicycle may be
equipped with different style components than the ones illustrated.
ASSEMBLY
DERAILLEUR GEARED BICYCLES
Front Wheel
Axle Nut
Axle
Retaining
Washer
Hub
Cone Nuts
Fork Drop Out
1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to
pass through the brake pads easily.
2. Place wheel into fork drop outs.
3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the fork,
and insert into the small hole of the fork blade.
4. Install axle nut and securely tighten. Make sure the wheel is
centered between the fork blades.
5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the
brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary.
6. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.
It is very important to check the front wheel
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten
may cause the front wheel to dislodge.
21
ASSEMBLY
Handlebars
Handlebar Binder Bolt
Stem Wedge Bolt
Top Nut
Minimum Insertion
Mark
Wedge
Remove the protective cap from the handlebar stem wedge and loosen the
Allen key bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13mm
hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem into
the top of the head tube, ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Tighten
the stem wedge bolt observing the minimum insertion mark and checking that
the forks and the handlebars are facing forward. Check the headset for
smooth rotation and that the top nut is secured tightly. Loosen the 6mm
Handlebar Binder Bolt and rotate the handlebar forward so the levers are at
a 45 degree angle below the handlebar. Retighten the Binder Bolt to ensure
the handlebar does not rotate in the stem.
Head Tube
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolts or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
NOTE: Comfort style bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle.
In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position,
and securely tightening the 6mm angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt.
Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control.
If the stem is not inserted into the top nut to at least the “Minimum Insertion” mark, it is
possible to over-tighten the stem wedge bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. If these
instructions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the
rider. Check steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try turning
the handlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front wheel, the stem is too loose. Realign the handlebar with the front wheel and re-tighten the stem wedge bolt.
22
ASSEMBLY
Shifter binder bolt
(2.5 Allen key)
NOTE:
When assembling the bicycle or
setting it up for a rider, the shifters,
brake levers and bar ends may need
to be rotated on the handlebars to a
position that allows safe and easy
operation on the controls.
Brake lever binder bolt
(5mm Allen key)
Bar end (5mm Allen key)
1.
Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifters, brake levers, and bar ends to
the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver.
(Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter.
(Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter.
Shift binder
bolt (Phillips
head or 5mm
Allen key)
Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may
cause sudden movement of the component
resulting in loss of steering control.
2.
23
Forks
ASSEMBLY
Steering Tube
Brake Boss
Drop-out
Crown
Do not attempt to disassemble a suspension fork yourself. Consult a professional
bicycle repair technician.
Fork Leg
1.
Brake Bridge
Crown
Brake Boss
Drop-out
Steering Tube
Fork Leg
2.
24
There are two different types of forks that range in styles
and dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting
of stationary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a
suspension fork (Figure 2) consisting of stanchion tubes
riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight fork leg.
This mechanism acts as a shock absorber with a specified
amount of travel that varies between models. If service is
needed on a suspension fork, consult a professional bicycle
repair technician.
Check the tightness of the headset and the fork. Rotate the
fork checking for smoothness. If it feels like the fork is
binding, then an adjustment will need to be made to the
headset. Move the fork in a push/pull manner checking for
tightness. If any play is detected, loosen the top nut, adjust
the bearing cup, and retighten the top nut. Recheck the
rotation and tightness. If necessary, readjust until a smooth
rotation is achieved without backward or forward movement.
If your bike is equipped with a suspension fork, check that
the fork compresses and rebounds smoothly. To do this,
place the fork dropouts against the ground, push and
release the handlebar. The fork will generally compress 1-2”
and rebound quickly. Most elastomer type forks will gradually
soften with use.
Seat and Seat Post
Seat
Post
Adjusting
Nut
Quick
Release
Attach
Seat Here
Boot
ASSEMBLY
Seat
Clamp
Attach the seat to the seat post by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the
tapered end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the top of the clamp.
Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp until the seat is snug, but can still be
turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat
to the proper height. The seat post must be inserted to at least the “Minimum
Insertion” line marked on the seat post. If equipped with a quick release; tighten
the adjusting nut by hand and move the quick release lever to the closed position.
You should feel considerable resistance while moving the lever. If not, re-open and
re-tighten the lever, then move it to the closed position so it is in line with the frame
as pictured. For more detailed information see page 56. If equipped with a binder
clamp; Insure the lip on the binder clamp is fitted completely against the top of the
seat tube of the frame. With the seat post inserted, tighten the binder bolt securely. Position the top of the seat parallel with the ground. Push the front of the seat
up and down to firmly mesh the serrations together. The serrations must mesh
completely together to insure a stabilized riding position. Securely tighten the nut
on the seat clamp. If there is a nut on both sides of the clamp, tighten each one by
alternating from one to the other. Check for tightness by twisting the seat from side
to side, and from front to back. If the seat moves at the seat clamp or quick
release, reposition and re-tighten the appropriate clamping mechanism.
NOTE: Comfort style bicycles may be equipped with a suspension
seat post (See Diagram-bottom left).
Minimum
Insertion
Mark
Insert this
end into
frame
The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum insertion
mark cannot be seen. The quick release mechanism must be
tightened securely to prevent a sudden shift of the seat when
riding. Failure to do this may cause loss of bicycle control.
25
ASSEMBLY
Pedals & Crank Set
Dust
Cap
Check for the right (R, red) sticker and left (L, green) sticker on each
pedal and crank arm. Match the appropriate pedal to each crank (right to
right and left to left) for assembly. Start each pedal spindle by hand to
avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended
wrench so that the shoulder of the pedal spindle is securely tightened
against the crank arm. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to the
chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread. The left
pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check the crank set for correct
adjustment and tightness before riding your bicycle. New cotterless
cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to page 87-89 for crank
type identification and instructions for adjustment and maintenance. Once
the pedals have been installed, remove the dust caps from the center of
each crank arm. Using a 14mm socket wrench, tighten the spindle nuts
securely and replace the dust caps.
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will
cause irreparable damage. Before your first ride, please
check to insure your pedals are attached correctly.
Never ride your bike if the cotterless cranks are loose. This
may be dangerous and will damage the crank arms beyond
repair.
26
1. Install the cable into
the link wire.
Cable
End
2. Set the cable into
the straddle holder.
Brakes
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to
the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake
adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 80-82.
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake cable
under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together so the
brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable, and tighten
the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder should sit 1020mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake shoes using a
10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned
1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to
achieve the correct brake position.
2
1
ASSEMBLY
Cantilever
Brakes
3
27
ASSEMBLY
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so
that the link wire is at the position in
the illustration.
5. Secure one of the shoes at a time.
The adjustment of the shoe clearance is
not necessary at this time.
Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:
7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)
3
Link Wire
10 mm wrench
To u c h i n g
5 mm Allen key
Cable Anchor Bolt
1 mm
Cable Casing Holder
1
2
1
2
Cut off any unnecessary
cable, attach an end cap,
and hook it onto the
notched part of the nut
which secures the shoe.
End cap
28
V-Style Brakes
Brake
Cable
Boot
Brake
Noodle
Anchor
Bolt
Brake
Arm
Pivot
Bolt
Brake
Shoe
Tension
Screw
If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box
and slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing will
then seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through the cable
lead on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the noodle to fit
into the lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable and position it
between both brake arms. Next, loosen the 5mm anchor bolt at the
end of the right brake arm and slide the cable under the retaining
washer. Pull the slack out of the cable making sure a distance of
39mm or more remains between the end of the lead and the start of
the anchor bolt. Once the cable is secured to the brake arms, engage
the brake lever several times, checking the position of the brake
shoes at the rim. The brake shoes should be 1mm away from the rim
when in a relaxed position. When the brake lever is engaged, the
brake shoe should hit the rim flush (never the tire) with the front touching slightly before the rear. If this position is not achieved, adjustments
to the brake shoe are required. Loosen the brake shoe hardware and
reposition the brake shoe. It may take several shoe and cable adjustments before the required position is accomplished.
ASSEMBLY
Outer
Cable
Lead
29
ASSEMBLY
V - Brake
1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into
the center spring hole in the frame mounting
boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the link fixing bolt.
2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
39 mm or more
A
5 mm Allen key
3 mm washer B
6 mm washer B
Shoe fixing nut
Washer
Link
fixing
bolt
Spring
hole
Stopper pin
30
Washer
Washer A
Shoe fixing link
Washer A
5. Adjust the balance with the spring
tension adjustment screws.
ASSEMBLY
3. While holding the shoe against the
rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.
shoe fixing nut
1 mm
5 mm Allen key
1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
4. Pass the inner cable through the inner
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance
of 1mm between each brake pad and the
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.
1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
far as the grip to check that everything is
operating correctly and that the shoe
clearance is correct before using the brakes.
Depress about
10 times
5 mm Allen key
1mm 1mm
31
ASSEMBLY
Check your Brakes
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to
stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are
not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0
mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.
Brake pad aligned with the rim surface
Pad and rim should be parallel.
Direction of rim
rotation
1- 2 mm
0.5 - 1.0 mm
Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning
properly. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push
the bike forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle.
Never ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.
Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may
pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury
or death.
32
Disk Brakes
Disc brakes require breaking in before full breaking power is achieved. While the break in period varies by model and manufacturer, a distance of 13 miles or 40 to 50 applications is the minimum before using the brakes for downhill conditions, for sudden
stops, or other serious braking. Please read the specific instructions and warnings for the disc brakes supplied on your bicycle
before riding your bicycle. Disc brakes are extremely powerful. You should take extra care in becoming familiar with brakes and
exercise particular care when using them.
ASSEMBLY
Some models of bicycles may be equipped with disc brakes. The set up and maintenance of disc brakes vary by model and
manufacturer, please read the instructions supplied with your bicycle for the specific instructions and warnings for the disc
brakes supplied on your bicycle before adjusting your brakes or riding your bicycle.
DISC GETS HOT! Severe injury could result from
contact with the hot disc! Mind your legs, as well
as your hands.
These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13
miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops, or
any other serious braking. Please be aware that your brake system will
change in performance throughout the wear-in process. The disc brake
should be cleaned before the first ride using rubbing alcohol. NEVER use oil
or similar products to clean your disc brake system.
33
ASSEMBLY
Derailleur
Freewheel
Outer side of Top Gear
Pulley Adjustment
Screw
Guide Pulley
Adjustment
Screws
Tension Pulley
Barrel Adjuster
High Gear
Adjustment Screw
Low Gear
Adjustment
Screw
Rear Derailleur
Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated, disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur cable anchor bolt, and
place the chain on the smallest sprocket. Adjust the High limit
screw so the guide pulley and the smallest sprocket are lined up
vertically. Reconnect the cable, pull out any slack, and retighten
the anchor bolt securely. Shift through the gears, making sure
each gear achieved is done quietly and without hesitation.Shift the
rear shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog.
Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the
guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again, shift
through each gear several times, checking that each gear is
achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the rear
derailleur and cable is adjusted properly.
Note: Some bicycles may be equipped with a rear derailleur
mechanism that works in reverse to the directions above.
Some derailleurs may have an adjusting barrel (see drawing). Use
the adjusting barrel to fine tune the adjustment of the chain location. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise will move the derailleur
outboard - away from the wheel, while turning it clockwise will
direct the chain inboard - towards the wheel.
H
L
Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain
does not fall off in either direction.
Barrel
Adjuster
Rear Derailleur Side View
34
Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at the
factory, you will need to inspect and possibly readjust both before
riding the bicycle.
Chainguide
clearance of
3-5mm
Front Derailleur
Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place
the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt.
Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel with
the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by 35mm when fully engaged. With the chain on the smallest
chainwheel in front and the largest cog in back, adjust the Low
limit screw so the chain is centered in the front derailleur cage.
Reconnect the cable, pull any slack out, and tighten the
anchor bolt securely. Shift the front shifter to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not go onto the largest chainwheel, turn
the high limit screw in 1/4 turn increments counter-clockwise until
the chain engages the largest chainwheel. If the chain falls off
the largest chainwheel, and into the pedals, you will need to
turn the High limit screw in 1/4 turn increments clockwise until
the chain no longer falls off.
Some shifters may have an adjusting barrel. to fine tune the
adjusting of the chain location. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise will move the derailleur inboard - towards the frame,
while turning it clockwise will direct the chain outboard - away
from the frame.
ASSEMBLY
Cable Anchor Bolt
Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting
properly. Overlooking proper adjustments may
cause irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or
bodily injury. Never move the shifter while
pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards
after having moved the shifter. This could
jam the chain and cause serious damage to
the bicycle and/or rider.
35
Dual Suspension
ASSEMBLY
Dual Suspension bikes are equipped with a front fork as well
as a rear suspension generally located below the seat. The
rear suspension unit is a combination of a piston that works in
conjunction with a spring to allow the rear swing arm to rotate
on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is secured and
there is no lateral movement of the rear triangle. The amount
of Rear Suspension travel can be adjusted by turning the
adjusting plate. Clockwise will increase spring
tension and decrease travel, while turning counter-clockwise
will decrease spring tension and increase travel. There are
many different types of suspension systems-too many to deal
with individually in this manual.
Spring plate
Anchor bolt
Spring
Anchor bolt
Adjusting plate
Piston
36
There must be enough tension on the spring to hold
the spring plate in place. Failure to do this may cause
the mechanism to fail. Failure to maintain, check and
properly adjust the suspension system may result in
suspension malfunction, which can cause you to lose
control and fall. Changing suspension adjustment can
change the handling and braking characteristics of
you bicycle. Always check for changes in the performance of your bicycle by taking a careful test ride in a
hazard free area. If your bike has suspension equipment, the increased speed you may develop also
increases your risk. When braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if
your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to
know how to handle your suspension system safely
before trying any downhill or very fast biking.
Rear Pivots
3
ASSEMBLY
1
The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows
the rear swing arm to move up and down in combination
with a rear suspension unit. Size, shape and components will vary between models: however operating principles are the same. The pivot point consists of a split
bushing set, held in place by a bolt that rotates inside of
fixed bushings in the frame. The pivot point should be
kept clean and free of grime, and should be disassembled and re-greased at least once a season. Please note
that on some models the drive side crank arm must be
removed from the spindle before attempting to work on
the pivot. After removing the fixing bolt, the bushings
may need to be tapped out using a drift, punch or other
blunt ended tool. After disassembly and cleaning, the
parts should be lightly coated with a lithium-based
grease. Reassemble the pivot bushing assembly and
tighten the fixing bolt securely.
Note: Never use WD-40 or similar products to grease
or lubricate components. It is a degrease that will
not provide required lubrication and has a tendency
to attract dust.
1
1.
2.
3.
Pivot Assembly
Bottom Bracket Cup & Lockring
Rear Triangle
2
37
ASSEMBLY
Accessories
If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the
cage to the bicycle using the allen bolts provided.
Saddle Bag
Frame Bag
Reflector
Reflector
Reflector
Water bottle and cage
If the kickstand is not mounted to your bicycle; place the bicycle in an upright position against a wall or have someone hold
it upright. Place the kickstand in the bracket mounted on the
frame and use the fixing bolt to secure the kickstand in place .
Be sure to tighten the fixing bolt securely. Some kickstands
use a top plate to locate the bolt and secure the kickstand
using the fixing bolt. Be sure to tighten the fixing bolt securely.
Other: Some 20”, 24” and 26” model bicycles come with a rear
derailleur guard to protect the rear derailleur from damage. To
install, remove the the rear wheel axle nut on the drive side,
install the rear derailleur guard over the axle with the U-shaped
guard pointing down, and retighten the axle nut. The guard will
sit between the frame and the axle nut.
Reflectors
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts. Failure to
do this may cause the rear wheel to
dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting
in serious damage or injury.
The kickstand is designed to support the
BICYCLE ONLY; not the bicycle and the rider.
38
Attach the white reflector to the front reflector bracket and
secure to the fork or handlebar using the hardware provided.
Attach the red reflector to the rear reflector bracket and secure
to the frame or seat post, depending on the bracket style, with
the hardware provided.
Final Check
Check that brakes operate smoothly with no binding. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bicycle forward to make sure
they will stop the bicycle. Do not ride your bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly.
-
Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel
between your knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side to side. The stem and/or handlebar
should not move when applying pressure.
-
After all adjustments have been made, shift through every gear several times at varying speeds. This will ensure all
your adjustments are correct and will allow you to pinpoint any trouble areas. If you encounter any problems, refer to
the appropriate section and make any necessary adjustments.
-
Check the tire pressure and inflate each tire to the recommended psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire.
-
Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the kickstand bolt is secured tightly.
-
Finally, examine the bicycle. Make sure all accessories are attached and all quick releases, nuts and bolts have been
tightened securely.
-
Correct maintenance of your bicycle will ensure many years of happy riding. Service your bicycle regularly by referring
to the relevant sections of this manual, OR take it to a professional bicycle shop.
ASSEMBLY
-
Remember: Always wear a helmet and obey all traffic laws.
Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall.
Exceeding the recommended pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could
cause damage to the bicycle and injury to the rider and bystanders.
39
ASSEMBLY
SINGLE SPEED & BMX
Includes 16" and 20" BMX Bikes
Assembly is the same for boy’s and girl’s bikes.
Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper
assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it
also offers an important measure of safety.
Getting Started
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and
all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that
the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to
installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete
to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded. Assemble
your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components
than the ones illustrated.
Front Wheel
Axle Nut
Axle
Retaining
Washer
Hub
Cone Nuts
Fork Drop Out
40
1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to pass
through the brake pads easily.
2. Place wheel into fork drop outs.
3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the fork,
and insert into the small hole of the fork blade.
4. Install axle nut and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered
between the fork blades.
5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the
brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary.
6. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.
It is very important to check the front wheel
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten
may cause the front wheel to dislodge.
Stem Cap Binder Bolts
Minimum
Insertion Mark
Remove the protective cap from the stem wedge and loosen the bolt using
the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13mm hexagonal bolt instead of
an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem into the head tube, checking that
the curved rake of the fork and handlebars are facing forward. Align the stem
with the front wheel, observing the minimum insetion mark on the stem and
ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Tighten the stem wedge bolt. Set
the handlebar at the desired angle and tighten the Stem Cap Binder Bolts
(see drawing) securely using a 5mm allen key.
Stem Wedge
Head
Tube
ASSEMBLY
Stem
Wedge
Bolt
Handlebars and Stem
Warning:The handlebar must be inserted so that the minimum
insertion mark cannot be seen.
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may
cause damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider.
Note: Some models may come packed with the stem pointing up. Loosen the stem/handlebar binder bolt(s) and rotate the stem
so that the neck is pointing down.
Important Note: Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the
front wheel between your knees and trying to move the handlebar and/or stem, and from side to side. The handlebar should not
move when applying pressure.
Never ride unless the handlebar clamping
mechanism has been securely tightened.
41
ASSEMBLY
Seat
Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the
threads of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seat post into the seat
clamp until it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seat post. Thread the
nut on the seat clamp loosely. Insert the larger end of the seat post into
the seat tube of the bicycle frame observing the minimum insertion mark
on the seat post. Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the
ground. The serrations on the seat clamp must mesh completely with the
seat frame serrations, push the front of the seat up and down to align the serrations. Securely tighten the seat clamp.
Securely tighten the bolts
on the seat post clamp. If your bicycle is equipped with a quick release,
refer to page 56 for proper adjustment instructions.
The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum
insertion mark cannot be seen.
Pedals & Crank Set
Check for the right (R, red) stricker and left (L, green) sticker on each pedal
and crank arm. Match the appropriate pedal to each crank (right to right and
left to left) for assembly. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping
the threads. Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench so that the
shoulder of the spindle is securely tightened against the crank arm. Note that
the right hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a righthand (clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and
has a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check
the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your bicycle.
New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to p.87-89 for proper
crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the pedals have been attached,
check that the crank arm rotates smoothly and that there is no lateral movement.
42
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank
arm will cause irreparable damage.
Brake
Nipple
Ferrule
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to the
appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 80-82. It is important to become familiar
with the use of hand brakes. When properly adjusted, hand brakes are an
efficient braking system. Keep the rim and brake shoes clean and free from
wax, lubricants and dirt at all times. Keep brakes properly adjusted and
in good working condition at all times.
ASSEMBLY
Brake Lever
Cable
Adjusting
Barrel
Grip
Side Pull
Brakes
Handlebar
Cable
Adjusting
Barrel
Center Bolt
Brake
Arm
Fixing Nut
in Back
Cable
Anchor
Nut
Brake Shoe
Side Pull Brake
Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it.
Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the
brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts on the
brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim. Tighten the
nuts securely. Loosen the cable anchor nut and squeeze both brake
arms together so that both brake shoes are in contact with the rim, pull all
the slack out of the brake cable, and securely tighten the cable anchor
nut. Spin the wheel, the brake shoes should not contact the rim at any
point and should be an equal distance from the rim on both sides. Make
sure all nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Test the brake levers 2025 times to take care of any initial cable stretch. Be sure to
tightly secure the brake fixing nut behind the fork.
43
ASSEMBLY
Cantilever
Brakes
1. Install the cable into
the cable carrier.
Cable
End
2. Set the cable onto
the straddle holder.
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and thread brake cable
through it. Adjust the brake shoes using a 10mm wrench and 5mm
Allen key so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned 12mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to
achieve the correct brake position.
2
1
3
44
When assembling or adjusting the brakes, make
sure the cable anchor is tight. Failure to securely
tighten the nut could result in brake failure and
personal injury.
5. Secure one of the shoes at a time. The
adjustment of the shoe clearance is not
necessary at this time.
3
Link Wire
ASSEMBLY
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so
that the link wire is at the position in
the illustration.
10 mm wrench
To u c h i n g
5 mm Allen key
Cable Anchor Bolt
Pad and rim should be parallel.
1 mm
Direction of rim
rotation
1- 2 mm
0.5 - 1.0 mm
Pad and rim should be parallel.
Direction of rim
rotation
Cut off any unnecessary
cable, attach an end cap,
and hook it onto the
notched part of the nut
which secures the shoe.
1- 2 mm
0.5 - 1.0 mm
End cap
45
ASSEMBLY
V - Brake
1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into
the center spring hole in the frame mounting
boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the link fixing bolt.
2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm or 3 mm) so that
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
39 mm or more
A
5 mm Allen key
3 mm washer B
6 mm washer B
Shoe fixing nut
Washer
Link
fixing
bolt
Spring
hole
Stopper pin
46
Washer
Washer A
Shoe fixing link
Washer A
5. Adjust the balance with the spring
tension adjustment screws.
5 mm Allen key
1 mm
1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
4. Pass the inner cable through the inner
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance
of 1mm between each brake pad and the
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.
ASSEMBLY
3. While holding the shoe against
the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.
1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
far as the grip and check that everything is
operating correctly and that the shoe clearance
is correct before using the brakes.
Depress about
10 times
5 mm Allen key
B C
B + C = 2 mm
47
ASSEMBLY
U-BRAKE INSTRUCTIONS
48
Adjust the pads of the U-brake using a 10mm wrench. Make sure the pad is hitting the rim and not the tire. Ideally the front of
the pad should hit the rim approximately 1mm before the rear pad. Next tighten the Cable Carrier to the brake cable approximately 20mm from the brake arms when they are closed against the rim. Attach the Straddle cable to the carrier. Hook cable
end into the brake slot, pull excess straddle cable through the cable anchor and tighten the cable anchor. For brake adjustments, use a 13mm box end wrench and a 5mm allen wrench and loosen the 5mm allen bolt. For the non-drive side (left),
turn the spring tension nut with box end wrench clockwise to increase tension on the spring. When the desired tension is
acheived, hold the tension nut with the 13mm wrench and tighten the 5mm allen bolt. The tension on each side should be
equal so that the brake arms move the same distance when the brake is activated.
Check your Brakes
Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning properly.
To test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bike forward to
make sure they will stop the bicycle.
Training Wheel
ASSEMBLY
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop
the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied.
Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from
the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.
Training Wheels
1. Position frame clip over rear axle nut with tab located in
frame axle slot.
Frame
Frame Clip
Brace
2. Locate brace over frame clip and secure with nut using
15mm or adjustable wrench.
3. The elongated hole on the brace allows for raising or
lowering the training wheels to the proper height. Once
proper height is determined, secure brace in position by
tightening nut securely.
Axle
49
ASSEMBLY
Rotors
50
Some freestyle BMX bicycles come equipped with a detangler
system that will allow the handlebar to spin 360-degrees
without binding the cables. CAUTION: Bicycles not equipped
with rotors do not have this capability for spinning the
handlebars. It is very important that this system is adjusted
correctly. Installation should only be done by a qualified
bicycle mechanic with the correct tools.
Upper Cable
1. First connect the barrel end of the upper cable to the
rear brake lever. Make sure the long cable casing is on
top of the short cable casing; otherwise, the upper cable
will have a twist in it.
2. Route the upper cable through the handlebars (below
the crossbar) with the short cable casing on the same
side as the rear brake lever.
3. Connect the upper cable to the upper plate by passing
the football ends of the upper cable through the threaded
holes in the upper plate and connecting them to the bearing.
4. Screw the adjusting barrels into the upper plate. Don’t
tighten the locknuts at this time.
Lower Cable
1. Slide the cable casing through the cable guide on the frame.
2. Connect the lower cable to the lower plate by passing
the football ends of the lower cable through the threaded
holes in the lower plate and connecting them to the bearing.
3. Screw the adjusting barrels into the lower plate. Don’t
tighten the locknuts at this time.
4. Connect the lower cable to the rear brake. Don’t adjust
the rear brake at this time.
NOTE: Check to make sure all 11 cable casing ends on
the upper and lower cables are seated correctly, and that
the spring tension of the rear brake is pulling the bearing down.
Adjustment
1. Screw the cable adjusters on the rear brake lever and the
upper cable splitter all the way in.
2. Screw the adjusting barrels in the upper plate in (or out)to set
the bearing for maximum travel. The bearing should
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
be as far down as it can go without resting on the lower
plate or the adjusting barrels screwed into the lower plate.
Use the adjusting barrels that are screwed into the
upper plate to make the bearing parallel to the upper
plate. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut on the
left adjusting barrel of the upper cable. Leave the right
adjusting barrel loose.
Screw the lower cable adjusting barrel into (or out of)
the lower plate until they are as close to the bearing as
they can get without touching it.
Screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable splitter out
until all slack is removed from the upper cable. Then
screw the cable adjuster out one more turn to raise the
bearing an additional 1mm away from the lower cable
adjusting barrels.
CAUTION: Don’t screw the cable adjuster on the upper
cable splitter out more than 8mm. Use the cable adjuster
on the rear brake lever if more adjustment is needed.
Check for bearing flop by placing the handlebars in the
normal riding position, then quickly rotate the handlebars
back and forth. Perform the following steps to eliminate
bearing flop.
NOTE: The bearing should never be allowed to rest on
the lower plate or lower cable adjusting barrels.
a) Screw the lower cable adjusting barrels out of (or
into) the lower plate until all bearing flop is eliminated.
b) Tighten the locknut of the right adjusting barrel on the
lower cable.
c) Rotate the handlebars 180 degrees and recheck for
bearing flop. If there is any bearing flop, use the
“loose” adjusting barrels on the upper and lower cable to
remove it.
d) Repeat steps (6a) and (6c) until the handlebars can be
rotated 360 degrees without any bearing flop.
Finish adjusting the rear brakes.
ASSEMBLY
Failure to adjust correctly may result in loss
of braking power and personal injury.
Single Cable Casing
Cable Adjuster
Cable Splitter
Upper Cable
(long casing)
Barrel End
Upper Cable
(short casing)
Adjusting Barrel
Upper Plate
37mm + or - 1mm
Bearing
Football Ends
Lower Plate
Lower Cable
Locknut
Set for Max. Travel
Keyed Washer
Minimum 1mm (1/32”)
Locknut
Adjusting Barrel
51
ASSEMBLY
52
PLEASE NOTE: Not all axles are able to accept axle pegs. Please consult your local
bicycle specialist if you have any questions. Some BMX bicycles come with two or four pegs.
Non-Threaded
Threaded
Make sure the axle nuts are tight with a 15mm
wrench or adjustable wrench. Place the domed
washer (if supplied) over the axle and axle nut. Slide
the peg onto the axle, and then using the supplied
tool or a 15mm socket and extended driver, thread
the peg-fixing nut onto the axle. Tighten the nut
clockwise until snug. Repeat for all the remaining
pegs.
This style of peg is threaded to fit the axle. Make sure
axle nuts are tight using a 15mm wrench or adjustable
wrench. Place the domed washer (if supplied) over the
axle and axle nut, and then thread the peg on the axle
turning clockwise until snug.
Front
Reflector
(White)
Rear
Reflector
(Red)
Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike.
NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style
components than the ones illustrated.
Reflectors: If not already attached, attach the reflctor mounts to
the bicycle (see pages 14-15). Mount the white reflector on the
front bracket and the red reflector on the rear bracket by sliding
the reflectors over the brackets (see diagram, page 14) and
ensure that the tab clicks in to the top hole of the bracket. It is
important to make sure that all connections are tightened
securely and that the reflectors are properly angled.
Pads: If your bike is supplied with pads, wrap the foam inner
cushion around the appropriate bar. Place the outer cover over
the inner cushion and press the velcro together securely. Turn
the pad so the velcro faces the ground.
Chainguards: If not already attached, attach the chainguard to
the bicycle frame using the hardware provided. Secure in place
making sure the guard does not bind or get caught on the
chain.
Tire Pressure: Check tire pressure, inflate to the range
recommended on the tire sidewalls.
ASSEMBLY
Final Check
Pads
Before riding, ensure all nuts, bolts and fittings
on the bicycle have been correctly tightened.
Chainguard
53
HOW THINGS WORK
54
6. How Things Work
It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you’re an
experienced bicyclist, don’t assume that the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes.
Be sure to read and to understand this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something, talk to your local bicycle specialist. Call 1-800-551-0032 with any further questions.
a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) Open up the brake shoes.
(2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (4). If your front fork has
an integral seondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns; then go to step (4).
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock
the wheel out of the fork ends.
b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the
top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the
fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel
rim in the fork, use a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench to tighten the axle nuts securely.
(3) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Open the rear brake shoes.
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur body back with your right
hand
(3) With a 15mm box wrench or a six-inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and
down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to
the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the axle nut.
(3) Tighten the axle nuts securely, using a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench.
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(5) Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.
HOW THINGS WORK
A. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels
55
HOW THINGS WORK
B. Seatpost Quick Release
Many bikes are equipped with quick-release seat post binders. While a quick release looks like a long bolt with a lever on one
end and a nut on the other, in fact the quick release uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seat post.
WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to
lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask your local bicycle specialist to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post quick release.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is securely clamped.
Adjusting the quick release mechanism
The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The
amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force
and unsafe clamping force.
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut with one hand
and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp
the seatpost safely.
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the seatpost for leverage,
and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn
the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
56
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously.
WARNING: Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing
serious injury or death.
1. How brakes work
It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes
are required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake. Make
sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably.
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces -- usually the brake shoes and the wheel
rim. To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake shoes clean and free of lubricants,
waxes or polishes.
HOW THINGS WORK
C. Brakes
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point
just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping
force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique
is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release
pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever
pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by
walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
WARNING: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull and disc brakes, are extremely powerful. You should take
extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. Applying these
brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
57
HOW THINGS WORK
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going.
This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you
flying over the handlebars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less
weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight shifts forward, you need to shift your body
toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear
braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on steep descents, because descents shift weight forward.
The keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking and
weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake shoes reduces their ability to grip.
The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.
2. Adjusting your brakes
If either brake lever on your bike fails the Mechanical Safety Check you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake cable
adjusting barrel counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrel’s lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the
lever still fails the Mechanical Safety Check, or if you have any question about whether your brakes are working properly have
your brakes checked by a bicycle specialist. Caution: The brake cable adjusting barrels are for minor adjustments only.
For major adjustments see the appropriate section in the manual for the type of brakes on your bicycle.
D. Shifting
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain, an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases, a combination
of the two.
1. Why all those gears?
You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to
spin the pedals at high revolutions per minute(called cadence) against low resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and
have the least endurance by pushing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having multiple gears on a
bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60
and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.
58
HOW THINGS WORK
2. Shifting a derailleur drivetrain
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will consist of:
• a rear sprocket cluster, called a freewheel or freewheel cassette
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
• one or two control cables
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
The number of possible gear combinations (“speeds”) is the product of multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the
drivetrain by the number of sprockets at the front (6 x 2 = 12, 6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21 and so on).
Shifting Gears
There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application because of its
ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the shifter design which
they believe will give the best results on your bike.
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “slower” gear, one which is easier to
pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear
Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which will make pedaling easier
on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or
up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an
upshift. The way to keep things straight is to remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for
accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for
speed and is called an upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the drive chain be moving forward
and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.
59
HOW THINGS WORK
60
1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to
another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher
gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of
the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket
results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In order for the
derailleur to disengage the chain from one sprocket and move it on to another, the chain must be moving forward (i.e. the rider
must be pedaling forward).
2) Shifting the Front Derailleur:
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the
chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an
upshift).
Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front combination is for
the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level of
ability -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling —
and experiment with up-shifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where
there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics,
experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at
precisely the optimum moment.
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:
• a 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub
• one, or sometimes two shifters
• one or two control cables
• one front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
a) Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear.
After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the
hub to complete the shift.
b) Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending on the number of
speeds of your hub) is for the greatest speed. Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear
(like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not
necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions -- a gear which is hard enough for quick
acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment with up-shifting and downshifting
to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve
built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, ex-perience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which
condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.
HOW THINGS WORK
3. Shifting an internal gear hub drivetrain
61
HOW THINGS WORK
G. Tires and Tubes
1. Tires
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been equipped with tires which the bike’s manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was in-tended. If, once you’ve
gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your local bicycle specialist can help you select the most appropriate design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of
the tire. The part of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.
WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the
recommended maximum pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury
to the rider and bystanders. The best way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump.
Your local bicycle specialist can help you select an appropriate pump.
CAUTION: Gas station air hoses move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tire
very rapidly. To avoid overinflation when using a gas station air hose, put air into your tire in short, spaced bursts.
62
CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges and gas station air hose pressure settings can be inaccurate and
should not be relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.
NOTE: Some tires may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two.
HOW THINGS WORK
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or weather
conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest rolling
resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. Very low pressures, at the
bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and
on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand. Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause
a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.
Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction
than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your
bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
2. Tire Valves
The tire valve allows air to enter the tire’s inner tube under pressure, but doesn’t let it back out unless you want it to. The tire
valve on your bicycle is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate the tire/tube, remove the dust cap and push the air hose or pump
fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of the valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with end of a key or
other appropriate object.
The Schraeder is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose or
pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with
the end of a key or other appropriate object.
The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem
to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a gas station air hose,
you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The
adapter fits the end of the air hose fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the valve stem
lock nut and depress the valve stem.
63
HOW THINGS WORK
H. Bicycle Suspension
Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which are designed to smooth out some of the shocks encountered in riding.
WARNING: Failure to maintain,check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which may cause you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of your bicycle.
Always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics of the bicycle after a suspension adjustment
by taking a careful test ride in a hazard-free area.
CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a
bicycle with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design.
WARNING: If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk. When
braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to know how to handle your suspension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast mountain
biking.
Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability may
allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own
capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed carefully until you are sure
you are competent to handle the full capabilities of your bike. Never ride at a speed or on terrain which is
not suitable for your personal riding skill and experience. Always proceed cautiously in areas where you are
not familiar with the terrain. If you exceed your limitations, serious injury or death could occur.
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Smooth running - Longer lasting components - Safer riding - Lower running costs
Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be
required. We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide
and by referring to Part 5 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks. If you require assistance, we
recommend you see a bicycle specialist.
SERVICING
Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure:
Schedule 1 - Lubrication
Frequency
Component
Lubricant
How to Lubricate
Weekly
chain
derailleur wheels
derailleurs
brake calipers
brake levers
shift levers
chain lube or light oil
chain lube or light oil
oil
oil
oil
lithium based grease
brush on or squirt
brush on or squirt
oil can
3 drops from oil can
2 drops from oil can
disassemble
freewheel
brake cables
bottom bracket
pedals
derailleur cables
wheel bearings
headset
seat pillar
oil
lithium
lithium
lithium
lithium
lithium
lithium
lithium
2 squirts from oil can
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
Monthly
Every Six Months
Yearly
based
based
based
based
based
based
based
grease
grease
grease
grease
grease
grease
grease
Note: The frequency of maintenance should increase with lots of usage and use in wet or dusty conditions. Do not over
lubricate - remove excess lubricant to prevent dirt build up. Never use a degreaser to lubricate your chain (WD-40)
65
SERVICING
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist
Frequency
Before every ride
After every ride
Weekly
Monthly
Every Six Months
Yearly
66
Task
Check tire pressure
Check brake operation
Check wheels for loose spokes
Make sure nothing is loose
Quick wipe down with damp cloth
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Check derailleur adjustment
Check brake adjustment
Check brake and gear cable adjustment
Check tire wear and pressure
Check wheels are true and spokes tight
Check hub, head set and crank bearings for looseness
Check pedals are securely tightened
Check handlebars are tight
Check seat and seat post are tight and comfortably adjusted
Check frame and fork for trueness
Check all nuts and bolts are tight
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Check all points as per monthly service
Check and replace brake pads, if required
Check chain for excess play or wear
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Page Reference
55
66-69
54
54
16-17
51
51
79-81
66-69
61,66
55
54
56,62,73
70
58-59
64
63
51
52
69
76
51
Tools Required
SERVICING
1
Open end or pedal
wrench 15mm
2
Allen key wrenches: 4mm, 5mm,
6mm, 8mm
3
Adjustable wrench
4
Tire levers
5
Tire pump
6
Standard slip joint
pliers
7
Standard Phillips
head screwdriver
8
Standard flat head
screwdriver
9. Open ended wrench or ring wrenches: 8mm,
9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm
10. Tube repair kit
Travel Tools
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Spare Tube
Patch kit
Pump
Tire levers
Multi-tool
Change (phone call)
67
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
WHEELS AND TIRES
Wheel Inspection
It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking
performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:
•Dirty or greasy rims:
Caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When
cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don't ride while they're wet.
When lubricating your bicycle, don't get oil on the rim braking surfaces.
•Wheels not straight:
Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of round. If wheels are not straight, they
will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle specialist.
•Broken or loose spokes:
Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged.
Caution: Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly an accident if not corrected.
Again, spoke repairs are best handled by a specialist.
•Loose hub bearings:
Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to side.
Caution: If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride the bicycle. Adjustment is required.
•Axle nuts:
Check that these are tight before each ride.
Caution: It is very important to check the front wheel connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten may
cause the front wheel to dislodge.
68
Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas:
Inflation:
Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge
and a hand pump than a service station pump.
Caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause
tire to blow up.
Bead Seating:
Tread:
When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim.
Check that the tread shows no signs of excessive wear or flat spots, and that there are no cuts or other damage.
Caution: Excessively worn or damaged tires should be replaced.
Valves:
Make sure valve caps are fitted and that valves are free from dirt. A slow leak caused by the entry of the dirt can
lead to a flat tire, and possibly a dangerous situation.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Tire Inspection
Recommended Tire pressures:
The recommended pressure molded on the sidewall of your bicycle tires should match the following chart.
Use this as a general guide.
BMX
MTB
Road Touring
Road Racing
Hybrid/Crossbike
35-50 p.s.i.
40-65 p.s.i.
70-90 p.s.i.
110-125 p.s.i.
60-100 p.s.i.
69
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Ball Bearings
Hub Body
Bearing
Cone
Axle
Lock Nut
Washer
Axle Nut
Hub Bearing Adjustment
When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require
adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.
1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.
2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on
one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same
side with bicycle cone wrench or flat, thin open end wrench.
3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.
4. Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in position.
5. Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side play.
How To Fix a Flat Tire
If you need to repair a tire, follow these steps:
Push tire bead
into the center
of the rim.
70
1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle.
2. Deflate the tire completely via the valve.
Loosen the tire bead by pushing it inward all the way around.
3. Press one side of the tire bead up over the edge of the rim.
Note: Use tire levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you may
damage the rim.
4. Remove the tube, leaving the tire on the rim.
5. Locate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit, carefully
following the instructions, or replace the tube.
Note: Ensure that the replacement tube size matches the size
stated on the tire sidewall and that the valve is the correct type
for your bicycle.
Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate the possible
cause and mark the location on the tire.
7.
Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if
located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding
spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the
spoke ends, if damaged.
8.
Remount one side of the tire onto the rim.
9.
Using a hand pump, inflate the tube just enough to give it some shape.
10.
Place the valve stem through the hole in the rim and work the tube into the
tire. Note: Do not let it twist.
11.
Using your hands only, remount the other side of the tire by pushing the edge
toward the center of the rim. Start on either side of the valve and work around
the rim.
12.
Before the tire is completely mounted, push the valve up into the rim to make
sure the tire can sit squarely in position.
13.
Fit the rest of the tire, rolling the last, most difficult part on using your thumbs.
Note: Avoid using tire levers as these can easily puncture the tube or damage
the tire.
14.
Check that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tire bead at any point.
15.
Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tire begins to take shape, and check
that the tire bead is evenly seated all the way around the rim. When properly
seated, fully inflate the tire to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Use a tire air
pressure gauge to check.
16.
Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, and brakes are properly
adjusted.
Pull tire back onto the rim.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Remove tire bead from the rim.
6.
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DETAILED MAINTENANCE
HANDLEBARS AND STEM
Handlebar Stem
Max. Height/
Minimum Insertion
Mark
Handlebar Binder Bolt
Handlebar Clamp Bolts
Stem Bolt
Max. Height/
Min. Insertion Mark
Stem Bolt Wedge
72
The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firm by
the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened,
binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube.
When removing the stem, loosen the stem wedge bolt two or three
turns, then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside.
Lubricate by first wiping off any old grease and grime, then applying a
thin film of grease to the part, including the wedge, that will be inserted
into the frame.
The height of the handlebar can be adjusted to suit your
comfort preference.
If the stem is removed from the steering column, you will notice a
mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or
“minimum insertion".
Never ride a bicycle if the stem has
been raised so that the max. height/
minimum insertion line can be seen.
Warning: Over tightening the stem
bolt or headset assembly may cause
damage to the bicycle and/or injury
to the rider.
Do not over tighten.
Stem Wedge Bolt
Handlebar
Handlebar Stem
Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem
within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your
knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side
to side. The handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.
Stem Bolt Wedge
Handlebars
MTB Handlebar Assembly
Make sure
handlebars and
fork are facing
forward
Note, curved rake of
fork faces forward
The exact positioning of the handlebar is a matter of personal
comfort. For MTB bicycles, the bar should be approximately
horizontal, with the ends pointing back and slightly up. On BMX
bicycles, the handlebar should remain in an approximately upright
position but can be angled back or forward slightly for comfort. On
MTB and racing style bicycles, the handlebar is usually tightened in
the stem by a single allen key bolt or hexagonal bolt. On BMX style
bicycles there may be four clamping bolts.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly
aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key.
Grip
Make sure, when setting the handlebars in the fork, that the curved
rake of the fork is angled to the front of the bicycle.
Please note that if you need to replace the forks in your bicycle at any
time, the replacement forks must have the same rake and the same
tube inner diameter as those originally fitted to the bicycle.
Never ride unless the handlebar clamping
mechanism has been securely tightened.
73
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Grip
7/8” Plastic Washer
Barrel Adjuster
Cable
GRIP SHIFTERS
Grip Shift - Installation
1. Slide front Grip Shift assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip.
If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift and handlebar grip.
2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement.
3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs.
4. Slide the 7/8” plastic washer over handlebar. The washer prevent the grip from interfering with Grip Shift rotation.
5. Slide handlebar grip over handlebar. Thread the cable inner wire through cable housings and frame, and attach to
derailleur. Make sure that the cable is in the V groove at the derailleur attachment bolt. If trimming the cable housing is
necessary, be sure to replace the housing end cap.
6. Adjust indexing.
7. Slide rear Grip Shift over right side of handlebar and repeat steps 2 - 6.
8. Actuate front and rear brake levers to be certain of proper operation. If Grip Shift interferes with brake lever movement,
rotate brake lever or Grip Shift. Check for proper brake lever operation again.
74
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Cables and Cable Housing
Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked
parts on the bicycle. The first indication that your
cables and housing need to be replaced is an
increased amount of pressure needed to operate the
brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there
are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing.
Check that the brake cables are correctly routed and
not wrapped around the stem or frame in a manner
that prevents smooth operation or hampers control of
the bicycle. Also check that the housing is seated
properly into each cable stop of the bicycle. It is
recommended that the cables and housing are
replaced at least every riding season to prolong the life
of your bike.
good cable
kink
Do not ride a bicycle that is not
operating properly.
Always check the brake cable routing to
ensure smooth and free application of
the brakes. Cables that are kinked,
frayed or otherwise damaged, or cables
that are wrapped around the stem or frame may
affect braking power or cause unintended sudden
stops and loss of control.
fray
75
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
HEADSET
Standard Headset
Inspection
The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month.
This is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the
frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident.
While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground,
apply the front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you
detect any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment. Check
that the headset is not over tight by slowly rotating the fork to the right
and left. If the fork tends to stick or bind at any point, the bearings
are too tight.
Note: If your bike is equipped with a threadless headset, please see
a qualified specialist for repairs and adjustments.
Lock Nut
Lock Washer
Adjusting Cup/Cone
Ball Retainer
Adjustment
Loosen the headset top locknut or remove it completely along with the
reflector bracket, if fitted. Turn the adjusting cup clockwise until finger
tight. Replace the lock washer or reflector bracket and re-tighten the
lock nut using a suitable wrench.
Top Head Cup
Bottom Head Cup
Note: Do not over tighten or bearing damage will occur.
Always make sure that the headset is properly
adjusted and that the headset locknut is fully
tightened before riding.
Ball Retainer
Crown Race
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
76
Inspection
The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked
for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post
from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the
bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”.
Seat Clamp Nut
Standard
Seat Post
Under no circumstances should the seat post project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion”
or “Maximum Extension” mark. If your seat post
projects from the frame beyond these markings, the
seat post or frame may break, which could cause you to lose
control and fall. After any saddle adjustment, be sure to tighten
the saddle adjusting mechanism properly before riding. A loose
saddle clamp or seat post binder can cause damage to the bicycle or can cause you to lose control and fall. Periodically check
to make sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly
tightened.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
SADDLE AND SEAT POST
Lubrication
Remove the seat post from the frame and wipe off any grease, rust or
dirt. Then apply a thin film of new grease to the part that will be inserted
into the frame. Re-insert, adjust and tighten the seat post in the frame.
77
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Adjustment
As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the
individual rider.
Saddle angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top
of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front.
The saddle can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most
comfortable reach to the handlebars.
When fitting, position the seat post into the clamp under the seat and place it in the frame without
tightening. Adjust it to the desired angle and position, and tighten the clamping mechanism securely.
Note that the type of binder bolt may be either a hexagonal bolt, an Allen head bolt, or a quick release mechanism.
Test the security by grasping the seat and trying to turn it sideways. If it moves, you will need to further tighten the
binder bolt.
Note: Remember that the minimum insertion mark must remain inside the frame assembly.
The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum insertion
mark cannot be seen. The quick release mechanism must be
tightened securely to prevent a sudden shift of the seat when
riding. Failure to do this may cause loss of bicycle control.
78
The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle's brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be
checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will
stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use.
Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly.
There are three types of hand operated bicycle brakes in common use: sidepull brakes, cantilever brakes, and V-brakes (or
Direct Pull brakes). All utilize a handlebar mounted lever which controls a cable to operate the brakes. Sidepull brakes and
V-brakes use two brake pivot arms, each mounted on separate pivots on either side of the frame/fork.
Inspection
Brake Cable
Brake Arm
Straddle Cable
Cantilever Brakes
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
BRAKES
Brake levers should be checked for tightness at least every three
months. They should be set in a comfortable position within easy
reach of the rider's hands, and must not be able to move on the
handlebar. Some brake levers make use of a reach adjustment screw,
which can be altered to the distance between the handlebar grip and
the lever, as required. The brake pads should be checked for correct
positioning and tightness before every ride, and the various bolts and
nuts at least every three months. Squeeze each brake lever to make
sure they operate freely and that the brake pads press hard enough on
the rims to stop the bike. There should be about 1mm - 2mm clearance between each pad and the rim when the brakes are not applied.
The brake pads must be properly centered for maximum
contact with the rim. Replace the brake pads if they are over worn so
that the grooves or pattern cannot be seen. The brake cable wires
should be checked for kinks, rust, broken strands or frayed ends.
The outer casing should also be checked for kinks, stretched coils and
other damage. If the cables are damaged, they should be replaced.
79
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with
2-3 drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth
operation and to reduce wear. Cables should be greased along
their entire length, after removing them from their casings, at least
every six months. Always grease new cables before fitting.
Lock nut
Brake Lever
Brake Lever Housing
Adjustment - Sidepull Calipers
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable
adjusting barrel, usually located at the upper cable arm.
Caution:The brake cable adjusting barrels are for minor adjustments
only. For major adjustments see the appropriate section in the
manual for the type of brakes on your bicycle.
Cable Adjusting Barrel
Center Bolt
Brake Shoe
Cable
Anchor
Bolt
Fixing Nut
in Back
Side-Pull Brakes
80
Lubrication
Cable Adjusting Barrel
To adjust, squeeze the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock
nut and turn the adjuster Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim. When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If
the pads cannot be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you
may have to adjust the cable length. Screw the barrel adjuster 3/4
of the way in, squeeze the pads against the rim, undo the cable
anchor bolt and pull the cable through with pliers. Re-tighten the
cable anchor bolt and apply full force to the brake lever to test,
then fine tune using the barrel adjuster. If one pad is closer to the
rim than the other, loosen the fixing nut at the back of the brake,
apply the brake to hold it centered, and re-tighten the fixing nut.
Ensure the Brake fixing nut is secured tightly.
Failure to do this may cause the Brake assembly
to dislodge from the fork/frame.
Adjustment - Cantilever Calipers
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the barrel cable adjusters
which are located on each brake lever.
Caution: The brake cable adjustiong barrels are for minor
adjustments only. For major adjustments see the appropriate
section in the manual for the type of brakes on your bicycle.
2mm clearance
Fully Adjustable Brake Shoes
Curved
Adjustment
Washer
To adjust, squeeze the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock
nut, and turn the adjuster to pull the brake pads closer to, or spread
them away from the rim as required.
Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim.
When correct, re-tighten the lock nut.
If the pads cannot be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you
may have to adjust the length of the brake cable.
To adjust the brake cable length: The main brake cable routes
through a link cable to the anchor bolt on one of the brake arms.
Squeeze both arms together so the brake shoes hit the rim, loosen
the cable anchor bolt and pull all the slack out of the cable. Retighten
the cable anchor bolt securely.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Brake pads should finally be adjusted so that the leading edge of the
pad makes first contact with the rim. Some brakes have special
curved washers to allow this, but on less complex models it will be
necessary to apply a little force to the pad and its mounting.
Parallel
Curved
Adjustment
Washer
Parallel
81
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Tread
Usable Brake Shoe
Tread Worn Off
Worn Out Brake Shoe (Replace)
Align brake shoe with rim surface
Direction of rim
rotation
Brake Shoe Holding Nut
0.5 - 1.0 mm
82
Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim
and so that the leading edge makes first contact.
To do this, fit an Allen key into the brake pad holding bolt, loosen
the fixing nut and adjust. Move the brake pad along its mounting
post to alter the distance from the rim, and move the curved adjustment
washer to alter the angle of the pad.
The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the
rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set, and
freewheel.
PEDALS
Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and
each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals
can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet
correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well
as downward pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps
requires practice to acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.
Inspection
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
DRIVETRAIN
Pedals should be inspected every month, taking note of the
following areas:
- Check that the pedals are tightened securely against the crank
arm. If pedals are allowed to become loose, they will not only be
dangerous but will also cause irreparable damage to the cranks.
- Check that pedal bearings are properly adjusted. Move the pedals
up and down, and right to left, and also rotate them by hand. If
you detect any looseness or roughness in the pedal bearings then
adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.
- Ensure that the front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and
securely fitted.
L = Left
Turn counter-clockwise
to tighten.
R = Right
Turn clockwise
to tighten.
Never ride with loose pedals. Always wear
shoes.
83
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Lubrication and Adjustment
Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to
inject a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every six months. If the pedal is the type that can be
fully disassembled, then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and greased every six to twelve months. Because of
the wide variety of pedal types and their internal complexity, disassembly procedures are beyond the scope of this manual
and further assistance should be sought from a specialist.
Attachment
Note: The right and left pedals of a bicycle each have a different thread and are not interchangeable.
Never force a pedal into the incorrect crank arm.
Check for the right (R, red) sticker and left (L, green) sticker on each pedal and crank arm. Match the appropriate pedal
to each crank (right to right and left to left) for assembly.
Insert the correct pedal into the crank arm and begin to turn the thread with your fingers only. When the axle is screwed
all the way in, securely tighten using a 15mm narrow open-ended wrench so that the shoulder of the pedal spindle is
securely tightened against the crank arm.
If removing a pedal, remember that the right pedal axle must be turned counter clockwise, i.e. the reverse of when fitting.
If replacing the original pedals with a new set, make sure the size and the axle thread is compatible with the cranks on
your bicycle. Bicycles use one of two types of cranks and these use different axle threads. Your bike may be equipped
with cranks that are a one piece design with no separate axle. These operate with pedals that have a 1/2"(12.7mm)
thread. Bikes equipped with three piece crank sets with a separate axle, left crank and right crank, use a slightly larger
9/16"(14mm) thread.
Note: Never try and force a pedal with the wrong thread size into a bicycle crank.
84
The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the
crank arms, and chainrings. Your bike may be fitted with either a one
piece crank, where the crank arms and bottom bracket are a single
component, or cotterless cranks, where the crank arms bolt onto the
bottom bracket axle without using old fashioned type cotterpins. The
one piece system is simpler and requires less maintenance, while the
cotterless system requires a little extra care.
Never ride your bike if the cotterless cranks are
loose. This may be dangerous and will damage the
crank arms beyond repair.
Cotterless Crank
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
CRANK SET
Inspection
Fixed Cup
Ball Bearing
Lockring
Axle
Adjusting
Cup
The crank set should be checked for correct adjustment and tightness
every month. Cotterless crank axle nuts must be kept tight, and the
bottom bracket bearings must be properly adjusted.
Remove the chain and try to move the cranks from side to side with
your hands. The cranks should not move on the axle, and there
should be only very slight movement in the bottom bracket. Next,
spin the cranks. If they don't spin freely without grinding noise, then
adjustment or lubrication will be needed. Also check that there are no
broken teeth on the chainrings, and wipe off excess dirt and grease
that may have built up on them.
Standard Bottom Bracket Assembly (Cotterless)
85
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks
To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise
and tighten the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten
the locknut counter-clockwise.
To disassemble:
1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel.
2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise.
3. Remove the left side locknut by turning it clockwise and remove the keyed lockwasher.
4. Remove the adjusting cone by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.
5. Remove the left ball retainer, slide the crank assembly out of the frame to the right, and remove the right ball retainer.
Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearing
retainers with grease, then re-assemble in the reverse of the above procedure.
Bearing Cup
Locknut
Fixed Cone
Lockwasher
Adjusting Cone
Bearing Cup
Ball Retainer
Ball Retainer
Crank
Chainwheel
86
One Piece Crank Assembly
Lubrication and Adjustment
- Cotterless Cranks
To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen
the lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn
the adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not
to alter the cup adjustment.
Fixed Cup
Cotterless Crank removing tool
Ball Retainer
Adjusting Cup
Bottom Bracket
Shell
Lockring
Axle
Remove the dust cap.
Loosen and remove
the flange nut.
To disassemble:
1. Remove the cranks from the axle. (see below)
2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counter-clockwise.
3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counter-clockwise.
4. Remove the left ball retainer and slide the axle out of the frame to
the left.
5. Remove the right side fixed cup by turning it counter-clockwise and
remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces
and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball
bearing retainers with grease, then re-assemble in reverse of
the above procedure.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Bottom Bracket
Cotterless Crank Removal
To remove cotterless cranks use the following procedure.
Note that a special tool will be required.
1. Remove the dust cap with a coin or screwdriver.
2. Loosen the flange nut or bolt and washer, and remove.
3. Screw the removing tool into the crank and tighten.
4. Turn the screw bolt down until the crank comes away from
the axle.
87
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Screw in the removal tool.
Turn the screw bolt
clockwise.
Adjustment After Use:
1. Remove dust cap.
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
3. Re-tighten the flange nuts, and refit the dust caps.
Position the crank on the axle.
Lightly tap the crank
onto the axle.
Tighten the flange nut.
Replace the dust cap.
88
Cotterless Crank Replacement:
1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle.
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a
torque of 27Nm.
4. Replace the dust cover
New cotterless cranks may become loose with initial
use. Tighten the flange nuts (see illustration below)
after several hours of riding, and repeat it two or
three times after further use. Cranks should then
remain tight.
Front Chainwheel
CHAIN
Inspection
The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in
order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement
if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure
that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely.
Pull up
10 mm
Straightedge
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Rear Sprocket
Lubrication
The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions.
Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tires or rim braking surfaces.
Adjustment and Replacement
On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain.
To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles:
1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted) and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to
tighten, in the frame.
2. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately 10mm of vertical movement when checked in the center
between the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Center the wheel in the frame and re-tighten the axle nuts after any
adjustment.
89
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Chains require a special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to
change the length. To remove, fit the rivet tool so that the punch
pin is centered over any one of the chain rivets. Push the rivet
almost all the way out, then back out the punch and remove the
tool. Holding the chain on both sides of the punched rivet, bend it
slightly to release link from the rivet. To install, feed chain around
chainwheel, rear sprocket (and through front and rear derailleurs
on multi-speed bikes) with protruding rivet facing away from the
bicycle. Bring the two ends together within the special tool and
punch the rivet into place. Be sure not to push rivet too far through
side plate.
Chain Rivet Tool
FREEWHEEL
Inspection
Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well
lubricated. If the chain has become worn and needs replacing,
then it is likely that the freewheel will also have become worn and
should also be replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and
rotate it with your hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the
freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it may need adjustment
or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope of this manual
and you should consult a specialist.
90
Brake Arm
Sprocket
Remove any accumulated dirt from the freewheel with a brush
and a degreaser. Disassembly of the freewheel is a complicated
procedure requiring special tools, and should be left to a
specialist. Apply oil to the freewheel whenever you lubricate the
chain, taking care to wipe off any excess.
COASTER HUB
Many BMX style and other children's bicycles are fitted with a
coaster hub brake in the rear wheel. This type of brake offers
the advantages of reliability and easy operation. The brake is
operated by applying back pedal pressure and allows the rider
to 'coast' without pedaling, if desired. There are several models
of coaster hubs available, and the internal mechanisms are very
complex. They require infrequent attention as far as lubrication,
adjustment or replacement of internal parts; if needed, this
should be left to a specialist. Keep the coaster hub sprocket clean
and oil it along with the chain.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Lubrication
Brake Arm Clip
Make sure the brake arm is correctly attached to
the chainstay with the brake arm clip. The
brake will not operate otherwise.
91
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS
The derailleur system includes the front and rear derailleurs, the shift levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which
must function correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different types of derailleur systems but all
operate using similar principles. Your new bicycle may be fitted with a standard 'friction' type system where you will need
to feel each gear shift into position. It may be fitted with an ‘index’ system (e.g. SIS) which links each different gear position
to a positive click mechanism in the shifter, and makes shifting very simple and precise.
Inspection
Pre-stretch the derailleur
cables to remove slack
Stretch
92
The operation of the derailleur system should be checked at
least every month. Check the operation of the rear derailleur
first, then the front. The rear derailleur should shift the chain
cleanly from one cog to the next without hesitation. On Index
System equipped bicycles, each notched position in the shifter
must equate to a new gear position. After shifting, the rear
derailleur should not rub on the chain. The derailleur should
never cause the chain to fall off the inner or outer freewheel
cogs.
The front derailleur should also shift the chain cleanly and
without hesitation between each chainring. When the chain has
been positioned onto a new chainring, it should not rub on the
front derailleur. The chain should not fall off a chainring at any
time. Derailleur control cables are a critical component that
must be well maintained for accurate shifting performance.
Check them for any sign of rust, fraying, kinks, broken strands,
and any damage to the cable housing. If you find any
problems, the cables may need replacing before you ride.
Cable Fixing Bolt
High Adjusting
Screw
Outer Chainguide
Chainguide
clearance of
1-3 mm
Inner Chainguide
Adjustment - Front Derailleur
1. Shift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift
the front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the
front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the
chain on the smallest chainwheel.
2. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer
chainwheel on the crankset. There must be a 3-5mm gap between
the bottom of the derailleur cage and the top of the outer chainwheel
teeth to ensure the derailleur will clear the chainwheel when shifting.
3. Adjust the low limit screw so the chain is centered in the middle of
derailleur cage. Pull all slack out of the cable by pulling it taut, then
reconnect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
4. Shift the front shifter into the largest gear and pedal the bike so the
chain jumps to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not shift
onto the largest chainwheel, you will need to turn the High limit
screw counter-clockwise until the chain moves to the largest
chainwheel. If the chain falls into the pedals, the High limit screw has
been turned too far. You will need to readjust the High screw
clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until the chain no longer falls off.
5. Shift through each gear ensuring all are achieved quietly and without
hesitation.
6. Some shifters may have an adjusting barrel. Use the adjusting barrel
to fine tune the adjustement of the chain location. Turn the adjusting
barrel clockwise will move the derailleur outboard - away from the
frame, while turning it clockwise will direct the chain inboard - towards
the frame.
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Low Adjusting Screw
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
93
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Outer side of Top Gear
Freewheel
Pulley Adjustment
Screw
All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be
lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any
excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shifting
cables should be cleaned and re-coated with a thin layer of grease
every six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.
Adjustment - Rear Derailleur
Adjustment
Screws
SIS Cable Adjuster
Guide Pulley
Tension Pulley
Rear Derailleur Rear View
High Gear
Adjustment Screw
Low Gear
Adjustment Screw
SIS Cable
Adjuster
Rear Derailleur Side View
94
Lubrication
The Low limit screw determines how far the rear derailleur will travel
toward the wheel of the bicycle, while the High limit screw determines
how far the cage will travel toward the frame.
1. Shift the rear shifter to the largest number indicated, disconnect the
rear derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain
on the smallest sprocket.
2. Adjust the High limit screw so the chain and the smallest sprocket
are lined up vertically. Remove any slack in the cable by pulling it
taut, then re-connect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
3. Some derailleurs have an adjusting barrel (see drawing). Use the
adjusting barrel to fine tune the adjustment of the chain location. Turning
the adjusting barrel clockwise will move the derailleur outboard - away
from the wheel - while turning it clockwise will direct the chain inboard towards the wheel.
4. Shift the chain onto the largest sprocket; adjust the low limit screw so the
chain and the largest cog are lined up vertically. If you are unable to get
the chain to the largest cog, turning the Low limit screw counter-clockwise
will enable the chain to move towards the wheel.
5. Shift through the gears ensuring each gear is achieved quietly and without
hesitation.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
Please refer to the troubleshooting section for more assistance.
NOTE: Some bicycles may be equipped with a rear derailleur
mechanism that works in REVERSE to the directions above.
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange)
reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good,
clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of
wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Please see pages 14-15 for more information.
Reflectors
Reflectors
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
REFLECTORS
Wear reflective clothing
when riding.
Attach a light to your
bike if you ride at night.
95
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Possible Cause
Remedy
Gear shifts not working properly
- Derailleur cables
sticking/stretched/damaged
- Front or rear derailleur not adjusted
properly
- Indexed shifting not adjusted properly
- Lubricate/tighten/replace cables
- Adjust indexing
Slipping chain
- Excessively worn/chipped chainring
or freewheel sprocket teeth
- Chain worn/stretched
- Stiff link in chain
- Non compatible chain/chainring/
freewheel
- Replace chainring, sprockets and
chain
- Replace chain
- Lubricate or replace link
- Seek advice at a bicycle shop
Chain jumping off freewheel
sprocket or chainring
-
Chainring out of true
Chainring loose
Chainring teeth bent or broken
Rear or front derailleur side-to-side
travel out of adjustment
-
Constant clicking noises when
pedaling
-
Stiff chain link
Loose pedal axle/bearings
Loose bottom bracket axle/bearings
Bent bottom bracket or pedal axle
- Loose crankset
- Lubricate chain / Adjust chain link
- Adjust bearings/axle nut
- Adjust bottom bracket
- Replace bottom bracket axle or
pedals
- Tighten crank bolts
-
-
Grinding noise when pedaling
96
- Adjust derailleurs
Pedal bearings too tight
Bottom bracket bearings too tight
Chain fouling derailleurs
Derailleur jockey wheels
dirty/binding
Re-true if possible, or replace
Tighten mounting bolts
Repair or replace chainring/set
Adjust derailleur travel
Adjust bearings
Adjust bearings
Adjust chain line
Clean and lubricate jockey wheels
Possible Cause
Remedy
Freewheel does not rotate
- Freewheel internal pawl pins are
jammed
- Lubricate. If problem persists,
replace freewheel
Brakes not working effectively
- Brake blocks worn down
- Brake blocks/rim greasy, wet or dirty
- Brake cables are
binding/stretched/damaged
- Brake levers are binding
- Brakes out of adjustment
- Replace brake blocks
- Clean blocks and rim
When applying the brakes
they squeal/squeak
-
-
Knocking or shuddering when
applying brakes
- Bulge in the rim or rim out of true
Brake
Brake
Brake
Brake
blocks worn down
block toe-in incorrect
blocks/rim dirty or wet
arms loose
Replace blocks
Correct block toe-in
Clean blocks and rim
Tighten mounting bolts
- Fork loose in head tube
- True wheel or take to a bike shop
for repair
- Tighten bolts
- Center brakes and/or adjust brake
block toe-in
- Tighten headset
-
-
- Brake mounting bolts loose
- Brakes out of adjustment
Wobbling wheel
- Clean/adjust/replace cables
- Adjust brake levers
- Center brakes
Axle broken
Wheel out of true
Hub comes loose
Headset binding
Hub bearings collapsed
QR mechanism loose
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Replace axle
True wheel
Adjust hub bearings
Adjust headset
Replace bearings
Adjust QR mechanism
97
TROUBLESHOOTING
98
Problem
Possible Cause
Remedy
Steering not accurate
-
- Align wheels correctly
- Adjust/tighten headset
- Take bike to a bike shop for possible
frame realignment
Frequent punctures
-
Wheels not aligned in frame
Headset loose or binding
Front forks or frame bent
Stem wedge bolt not tight
Inner tube old or faulty
Tire tread/casing worn
Tire unsuited to rim
Tire not checked after previous
puncture
- Tire pressure too low
- Spoke protruding into rim
-
Replace Inner tube
Replace tire
Replace with correct tire
Remove sharp object embedded
in tire
- Correct tire pressure
- File down spoke
LIMITED WARRANTY
Subject to the following limitations, all bicycles manufactured for Dynacraft are warranted to the original purchaser to be free of defects in
materials and workmanship for a period from the date of purchase of:
Lifetime For The Bicycle Frame and Fork
Two Years On All Other Component Parts
No other express or implied warranty is given. Dynacraft will replace without charge the bicycle frame, fork or those component parts that
are determined by Dynacraft to be defective in materials or manufacture under normal use and service during the applicable warranty
period. The original purchaser will be responsible for any and all labor charges connected with the repair or replacement of the frame, fork,
and/or parts. Component parts subject to wear in use, tires, tubes, seats, grips and brake shoes are not covered under this warranty.
CAUTION: This limited warranty does not apply to normal wear and tear, nor to claimed defects, malfunctions, or failures that result
from abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper maintenance, alteration, collision, crash or misuse. Dynacraft does not encourage
stunting, trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe climates, riding with heavy
loads, commercial activities, or any similar activities; such use is inherently dangerous, can cause serious injury to the rider, and if
done it is with the rider’s express and implied assumption of the risk of such use and Dynacraft shall not have any responsibility for
any break down of the bicycle, its components or rider injuries that occur during such use.
Bicycle riding can be inherently dangerous such that bodily injury or death can occur, especially if the rider does not make the safety
and maintenance checks recommended in this manual, if the rider does not wear a helmet, if the rider does not follow the rules of the
road, if the rider goes into traffic, rides double, or engages in aggressive, stunt or extreme terrain riding. Riders taking such actions
will assume their own risk of injury, and Dynacraft will not be responsible.
THE PURCHASE OF THIS BICYCLE WILL CONFIRM THE BUYER’S AGREEMENT THAT DYNACRAFT’S LIABILITY UNDER THIS
WARRANTY SHALL BE NO GREATER THAN THE AMOUNT OF THE ORIGINAL PURCHASE PRICE AND IN NO EVENT SHALL
DYNACRAFT BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.
Dynacraft BSC, Inc.
89 South Kelly Road
American Canyon, CA 94503
Call Toll Free 1.800.551.0032
Monday-Friday 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Pacific Time
PLACE
STAMP
HERE
Cut along dotted line before mailing
100
Cut along dotted line before mailing
DYNACRAFT BSC, INC.
89 S. KELLY RD.
AMERICAN CANYON, CA 94503
Thank You for purchasing your bicycle. Please take a moment to fill out this registration card,
and mail it back to us. We value your business and appreciate your feedback.
Cut along dotted line before mailing
Model Number/Description: __________________________________________________________
Serial Number: ____________________________________________________________________
Name: ____________________________________________________________________________
Address: __________________________________________________________________________
City/State: __________________________________________ Zip:__________________________
Date of Purchase: ____________________________________ Users Date of Birth: ____________
Date of Birth of Person’s Whose Name Appears Above: __________________________________
Place of Purchase:
________________________________________________________________
Check the 2 most important reasons you selected this brand of bicycle:
Appearance/Style
Friend or relative owns
Color
store
Special Features
Other (Please specify)
Newspaper Ad
Price
Character
Who selected this bicycle?
Who is using this bicycle?
Father of user
Grandparents
Male
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Relative
Female
Child
Other
Cut along dotted line before mailing
101
BSC, Inc
89 S. Kelly Rd.
American Canyon, CA 94503
1.800.551.0032
www.dynacraftbikes.com
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