April 2015
Welcome aboard “TUG TIME!”. TUG TIME! is a 2010 Ranger Tug 29. We named our boat “TUG
TIME!” because it is your time to just kick back and relax and enjoy.
Calm Seas!
Mike and Heather Dooley, Owners
Power is received from the engine start battery. Always operate the windlass while the
engine is running! Otherwise, the windlass will drain the start battery. The breaker/fuse for
the windlass circuit is located in the starboard side electronics area forward of the steering
station accesses from the forward salon, The up-down controller for the windlass is located
on foot pedals located @ the bow and, very conveniently, on the control panel to the left of
the wheel.
A. Deploying the Anchor:
Come to a complete stop before releasing the anchor from the bow. Drop the anchor
slowly off the bow roller and into the water. Determine the depth and let out enough chain
to allow the anchor to hit the bottom. Inform the helmsman to reverse the engine in idle
only and pay out the chain and rode until you reach the desired scope (Usually 4 to 1)
Make sure to take into account the tide and how much the water is going to rise or fall.
Use the anchor snubber if all chain rode is deployed, the windlass is not designed to take
the load of an anchored boat. Using a combination of reverse and neutral, gently tug on
the anchor until it is set. Perform an anchor watch for about a half an hour and you should
sleep well.
B. Retrieving the Anchor:
When retrieving the anchor, NEVER use a windlass to pull the boat forward to where the
anchor is set. (The windlass is not designed for it, would be a large draw on the batteries,
and might cause serious damage to the attachment base.) Instead, head the boat under
power toward the anchor while using the windlass to take up the slack in the chain/rode.
Take your time, the anchor chain/rode will bunch up under the windlass and you will need
to push it down to the bottom of the chain locker to prevent the chain from jamming in the
C. Securing the Anchor:
Once the anchor is on the bow roller, be sure to secure the anchor with the “snubber”
line. Snap the line through a link in the chain nearest the anchor, and then tie the line to
the bow cleat. (The chain over the wildcat on the windlass should not be the only thing
keeping the anchor from unexpectedly returning to the sea bottom!)
Batteries & Charging. For normal operations, leave all battery switches on. There are a total of six
batteries, four for the house, one for the thrusters, and one for engine start. A battery combiner isolates
the start battery, assuring all batteries are charged, while protecting the engine start battery from drawdown by house usage.
The four house batteries have worked well for up to three days without running the engine, since
the lights draw very little current. Running the engine under load for an hour or longer will bring
the batteries up to near full status.
There is a battery bank switch on the 12v DC panel in the aft of the cabin to check battery voltage.
The % amount of charge remaining on the house batteries, and all voltages, can be checked via the
BLUE SEASYSTEM monitor that is below the shore power selector switch on the circuit
breaker panel.
DO NOT to discharge below 12 volts before you start re-charging the batteries by (a) running the
main engine or (b) plugging into shore power with the charger breaker “on”. DOING SO CAN
Bilge pumps.
Please check the bilge each day, morning and evening. The bilge area is accessed easily by lifting
the engine hatch and looking at the area behind the transmission and under the shaft.
Electric on-demand bilge pumps are automatic, with circuit breakers at the DC Panel located aft
of the main cabin. The on position at the breaker panel is the manual on mode and will run
continuously until switched off. The OFF position at the circuit breaker is actually the automatic
position and will cause the pump to be controlled by the float switch. Please keep in the
automatic position unless it is necessary to override in manual mode.
VHF Radios: There is one VHF radio at the helm. Push and hold the power button to turn on and off.
There is one handheld water resistant VHF unit, usually located in the bottom galley drawer or
kept at the helm. Keep charged to have a redundant communications system. Charger is usually in
the basket or bottom drawer.
You are required monitor channel 16 by the USCG (the hailing and distress channel) during your
cruise. After establishing contact on channel 16, switch to working channels 68, 69, or 80. Scan
the weather channels for the one with the best reception before sailing in the morning and prior to
anchoring for the evening. This is generally a light wind region but weather changes can be
sudden. Listen for the “inland waters of western Washington” or “Camano Island to Point
Roberts”. Both cover the San Juan Islands. You will also hear “Strait of Juan de Fuca” (south of
the San Juans), “Georgia Strait” (north), and “Rosario Strait” (runs through the eastern part of
the San Juans). San Juan Yachting monitors channel 80 during office hours (closed Sundays).
By phone you can reach the San Juan Yachting office at (800) 670-8089 or SJS’s owner, Roger
Van Dyken, at (360) 224-4300 (cell) or (360) 354-5770 (home).
Emergency / Safety.
Flares. Visual day/night distress signals are located in the starboard galley cabinet below the
forward sink. Please locate them now so that you know where they are before you may need
them. They are located in the bottom cabinet under the sink.
Fire Extinguishers. There is one fire extinguisher, located in the forward berth. There is another
fire extinguisher mounted at the galley on the bulkhead.
Life Jackets. 3 auto inflatable PFDs are located in the port side berth (hanging) and 4 traditional
PFDs are in the port side berth. A Type 4 cushion PFD is stored in the rear of the port side area.
It is required to have this accessible we recommend having it out in the aft cockpit.
Throwable Line Bag. A throwable line bag is located in the cockpit locker. It is recommended to
have this accessible to throw to someone in the water. Hold on to a short piece of the line
coming out the top of the bag and throw the bag out and over the person in the water using an
underhand motion. Have the person grab the thrown line, not the bag that still has line in it,
and pull the person to the boat.
1. Check the oil level. The dipstick is accessed by opening the hatchway in the salon by the
door. Oil is filled at the top of the engine. Do not overfill. Use the onboard spare oil to add no
more than a cup at a time. Then check the level again. Overfilling is a bad thing to do to a
diesel. The excess oil will escape somehow, perhaps by blowing the head gasket. Also, if the
dipstick indicates no oil the first time you check it, reinsert and try again - the correct level will
show when the air lock bubble is broken. Expect the oil to be blacker than that of a gasoline
powered automobile engine…this is normal for a diesel after only a few hours of operation.
2. Check the coolant level anywhere between the two lines on the overflow reservoir is “good”.
The coolant reservoir is located in the engine compartment starboard side accessed from the
salon hatch.
3. While you have access to the front of the engine, check for leaking fluids. Look over the stern
for things that could foul the propeller.
4. Close the cabin door to prevent initial diesel exhaust from entering the cabin.
6. Make sure the gearshift is in neutral to start.
7. Insert the key and turn it clockwise one click until the beep stops, ~ 2 seconds.
8. Turn the key further to start the engine. It may be necessary to SLIGHTLY push the throttle
forward, still in the neutral position, to start the engine. Expect the engine to start in 2 seconds
or less. If the engine doesn’t start after 5 seconds of cranking, turn the key to the left and
remove it. Wait 15 seconds and try again.
9. After the engine starts, release the key, check for water gurgling out the exhaust, stern
starboard side.
10. While the engine warms, check your fuel level on the engine gauge, turn on your chart plotter,
radio, autopilot. Also check and record your engine hours. Fuel gauges sometime stick but
hour meters seldom lie.
Please allow 5-10 minutes of warm up before placing a load on the engine. It is very hard on
diesel engines to be placed under load when cold.
Operation. 260 HP Yanmar engines are very reliable. Optimal cruising speed is obtained at
2,000RPM which will result in ~8 knots with fuel consumption ~2-3 GPH at this cruising speed
but is highly variable based on tides, wind and loading of the boat. Do not enter the RED
RPM zone on the engine, as indicated on the Maretron engine monitoring system. Running at
+13 knots will increase fuel consumption DRAMATICALLY, so slow down and enjoy the
cruise! Most destinations are fairly close together in the San Juan Islands.
To avoid the possibility of sucking air or sludge when the fuel level approaches 1/4 of a tank,
refuel when the fuel drops below ½ full and before it reaches 1/3 full.
Engine Overheat. If the buzzer sounds while the engine is running, about 999 times out of a
thousand it’s no more serious than eelgrass plugging up your raw water strainer. The best upfront
solution to this problem is prevention, keep an eye peeled for eelgrass mats, especially along those
“soapy” looking tide and eddy lines in the water. And don’t run over it. When eelgrass gets
sucked into the engine cooling water intake, it jams at the raw water strainer.
To clear the eelgrass from the raw water strainer, open the engine hatch, close the RAW WATER
SEACOCK, unscrew the clear bubble top of the strainer, remove the foreign material, screw the
clear top back on the strainer and open the RAW WATER SEACOCK
Then restart the engine.
If upon restarting the engine overheats again, check the strainer again to make sure its drawing
water in to about ¾ full. If not, grass could be plugging the opening in the hull. This requires
diving under the boat to remove the eel grass, so you should call San Juan Yachting.
If the above fails to solve the problem, call San Juan Yachting for assistance.
There may be other reasons you hear the buzzer. If you lost oil pressure, the oil icon warning light
will light up, so check which light is showing red. If it’s the oil light, shut down the engine, check
the oil level, and contact San Juan Sailing. The alarm buzzer is more likely to indicate engine
overheating, and the temperature icon light will light up. Before you shut down the engine, check
for water gurgling out the exhaust. If you have a “wet exhaust”, check the coolant level in the
overflow reservoir bottle and if none is seen, add enough to reach the top level line on the bottle.
And check the bilge for a light green liquid. If found in the bilge, call San Juan Yachting. If the
coolant reservoir bottle is full, check to see if the engine threw a belt. Without a belt on the raw
water pump, the raw water won’t circulate and cool the engine. (Replacement belts are located in
the engine spares kit.) One other possibility is that the impeller in the raw water pump has failed.
A replacement impeller is found with the engine spares. Call San Juan Yachting if you suspect you
have an impeller problem.
Engine Shutdown. First bring the engine to idle and the gearshift to neutral. Allow the engine 5
minutes in idle to cool down.
Underway & Docking
Please allow at least 5-10 minutes to warm up the engine prior to getting underway. Placing
a load on a “cold” diesel engine is damaging to the engine. TUG TIME! is very simple to operate
The proper use of the trim tabs will enable you to trim the boat for optimum performance while
the boat is planning. To correct natural list to PORT push port toggle switch down at the front of
the switch.
The only thing to be aware of is that due to her relatively light weight, she will take more
concentration piloting in large following seas (above 4’). She is very seaworthy.
The use of the bow and stern thrusters at the helm will make that last little docking maneuver
easy. Use standard single screw maneuvering techniques to get close, never going faster than the
speed at which you want to hit something, and turn on the thrusters before you are going to use
them by briefly holding down BOTH “on” switches at once. The thruster system will “time out”
after a few minutes so reactivate the system by pushing down again on both “on” buttons
periodically, even if the light is still on. Using the two joy sticks will activate the thrusters in the
direction pushed.
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