538 Blue Screen Modification

538 Blue Screen Modification
Ten-Tec (865) 453-7172
Service Department (865) 428-4483
Upgrading the Jupiter PLD (Programmable Logic Device)
to add support for a plug-in keyboard
BACKGROUND
The logic board in the Ten-Tec Jupiter transceiver contains a PLD (Programmable Logic Device) that
provides the DSP system with enhanced I/O (Input-Output) capability. In order to support the new CW
keyboard interface this PLD must be upgraded. The Logic board was designed to allow the DSP processor
to perform this upgrade using special firmware from Ten-Tec.
SPECIAL NOTE
If you have a Jupiter with a factory installed blue LCD display then you do not need to perform the PLD
update. If you are updating your Jupiter to the new Multi-Program memory chip you should perform the
PLD update while the old chip is in the radio. Then, after updating the PLD you can remove the old
memory chip and install the new one.
HOW TO PERFORM THE PLD UPDATE
The new PLD firmware file is similar to other radio firmware upgrades. However, this firmware will only
need to be run once. After downloading the PLD update package from www.rfsquared.com you will need
to perform a standard update using the file 538KBD.RUF. Once the PC utility completes downloading the
firmware, the radio will begin executing the firmware start the process of updating the on-board PLD. This
process will take up to 3 minutes. During the time the PLD is being reprogrammed the RED TX LED will
turn on. During this phase of the update operation it is critical that the radio not be tuned off. Doing so may
leave the PLD in a state that will prevent it from operating normally and may require the radio to be
returned to Ten-Tec for service. When the PLD programming is completed the RED TX LED will go out
and the GREEN RX LED will turn on. You will also hear the relays in the radio click as they are reset. At
this point the power to the radio should be cycled. You should see the message “PLD IS PROGRAMMED.
NOW UPDATE FIRMWARE” displayed on the screen.
At this point, you should reprogram the radio firmware or install the new IC, depending on the level of
upgrade you are performing.
1185 Dolly Parton Parkway
Sevierville, TN 37862
(865)453-7172
The following describes how to change the display in
any version of the Model 538.
PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE
CHANGING THE DISPLAY
NOTE: Please update the PLD before beginning
with these modifications. Then, proceed with Step 1
below. Included with the BL538K Display
Upgrade is the MP538K Firmware Upgrade.
TOOLS NEEDED:
 Phillips Screwdriver
 3/16” Nut Driver
 Pliers
 Soldering Iron (Resistor Change)
 T10 Torx Tool (Ten-Tec p/n 38313)*
 0.050 Allen Wrench (Ten-Tec p/n 38040)*
 0.062 Allen Wrench (Ten-Tec p/n 38088)*
*Included
Ten-Tec p/n 74421
Step 1: Remove the four large Phillips head screws
on the sides of the Jupiter.
Step 2: Remove the torx head screws on the rear of
the Jupiter using the T-10 torx tool provided. These
10 torx screws help to secure both the top and bottom
covers.
Step 3: Remove the top cover from the chassis by
lifting from the back and pulling the lip out from the
front panel.
Step 4: The speaker is located on the top cover. Use
care removing the top cover to avoid doing any
damage to the speaker wire. Unplug the speaker wire
at connector #17 as shown. Feed the wire through
the hole in the chassis and set the top cover and
mounting hardware aside for now.
Step 5: Remove the bottom cover from the chassis
by lifting from the back and pulling the lip out from
the front panel. Set the bottom cover aside for now.
This image is a picture of the front panel with the
LCD that will be removed. The unit pictured is a
Model 538CE with a tuner. Not all versions of the
538 will look exactly like the one pictured.
Step 6: Remove the four small Phillips head screws
securing the front panel to the sides of the chassis.
Keep the screws in a safe place as they will be
needed for reassembly.
Step 7: Some versions of the Jupiter will have a few
capacitors soldered from the mic jack to a ground lug
attached to the chassis. In order to release the front
panel on these versions of the Jupiter, remove the nut
and screw that secure the ground lug to the chassis.
Place the nut and screw in a safe place as they will be
needed for reassembly.
Step 8: Gently pull the front panel straight out from
the chassis about an inch. Begin unplugging the
cables that run to the front panel (note that each cable
has a number corresponding to a printed number on
the board with the exception of cable #12).
Step 9: Once the front panel has been completely
released from the chassis, find a surface that will not
scratch the panel and lay the panel face down.
Step 10: Using a 3/16 hex driver, find and remove
the four nuts that secure the LCD to the front panel
(Note that at least one of the nuts may have a small
nylon washer between it and the board. This nylon
washer is used as an insulator and will NOT be used
as an insulator on the new display). However, set
aside the hex nuts as they will be needed to secure the
new display later.
Step 11: Gently lift the LCD from the front panel.
At this point, this is how the back side of the front
panel should look.
A Choice to Make? Please choose one of the two
options.
The first option is to change the four threaded studs
for studs that are slightly longer.
This first option prevents the LCD Panel from being
stressed in case of over tightening.
The second option is to do nothing and leave the
threaded studs as they are and proceed with the
installation of the new display.
The second option is recommended for those who are
uncomfortable taking the front panel completely
apart. However, should the second option be chosen,
be aware that the LCD panel ABSOLUTELY must
not be over tightened. This will be tempting because
there are not as many threads available on the
threaded studs. However, to over tighten the hex nuts
will put the display under undesired stress.
For those choosing option 2, please
proceed now to Step 30.
Option 1: Changing the short threaded studs for the
longer threaded studs.
Step 12: To begin removing the main tuning knob,
first remove the knob sleeve by sliding the knob
sleeve forward.
Step 13: Using the 0.062 Allen Wrench, loosen the
set screw and pull forward on the main tuning knob
until it releases from the encoder shaft. DO NOT
remove the set screw. Only loosen the set screw until
the knob will slide off of the encoder shaft.
Step 14: Remove the Bandwidth, PBT, Multi, and
RIT/XIT knobs. First, slide the knob sleeves forward
exposing the opening to the set screw. The sleeves
can be quite tight making them very difficult to
remove. For assistance, use the flat blade of a
screwdriver and pry the knob sleeve off. But be
careful! This can be dangerous due to knob slipping.
Step 15: Using the 0.050 Allen Wrench, loosen the
set screws and pull forward on the knobs until they
release from the encoder shafts. DO NOT remove
these set screws.
Step 16: For radios with rubber O-Rings on the
encoder shafts (Bandwidth, PBT, MULTI, and
RIT/XIT), slide the O-Rings from the encoder shafts
and put them aside along with the knobs until
reassembly of the front panel.
Step 17: Unscrew all of the screws that secure the
front panel PCB to the front panel. There are 21
screws in all. Once removed, the front panel PCB
will release from the molded plastic front panel. The
screw just below the mic jack secures a grounding
tab. When this screw is removed, do not forget to
observe how the grounding tab is oriented as it will
need to go back in upon reassembly.
Step 18: Using a pair of needle nose pliers, grip the
standoff at the base as shown. Rotate counterclockwise to loosen the standoff from the stud. If the
standoff will not loosen from the stud on this attempt,
then the base of the stud (on the other side of the
board) itself may need to be gripped with another pair
of pliers. While holding the stud in place, rotate the
standoff counter-clockwise. Once loosened, simply
twist off. Do this for all four threaded studs and
standoffs. There are some nylon washers at the base
of the standoffs. Set these aside, and reuse them with
the longer standoffs.
Step 19: Take the longer threaded studs that came in
the kit and insert them through the same four holes in
the exact same direction as the four that were just
removed. Next, take the four nylon washers that
were previously removed and insert them on the
threaded studs. Then take the threaded standoffs that
were set aside and screw them on to the longer
threaded studs that were just added.
These will look exactly as before except that the
threaded studs are longer.
Step 20: Reassemble the front panel taking the front
panel PCB and insert it back into the molded plastic
front panel. Align all of the front panel buttons and
drop in place.
Step 21: Attach the front panel PCB to the molded
plastic front panel with the 21 screws that were
removed earlier.
Do not forget the grounding tab at the mic connector.
Step 22: For radios with O-Rings, slide the O-Rings
back on to the encoder shafts for the Bandwidth,
PCB, Multi, and RIT/XIT encoders.
Step 23: Place the knobs back on to the encoder
shafts in the same manner in which they were
disassembled and tighten the set screws. Be careful
not to over tighten.
Step 24: Slide the knob sleeves back on to the knobs.
Step 25: Repeat for the main encoder.
Step 26: Slide the knob sleeve over the main
encoder.
Step 27: Remove the new blue LCD from the
packaging.
Step 28: Take the new blue LCD and set it into place
on the four standoffs that were just installed. The
display will only properly fit into the front panel one
way.
Step 29: Take the four nuts that were set aside when
the old panel was removed and use them to secure the
new panel. Be careful not to over tighten the nuts.
Proceed to Step 34.
Option 2
Step 30: Remove the new blue LCD from the
packaging.
Step 31: Locate the four standoffs for the LCD and
place two nylon washers on the two standoffs that are
nearest the three encoders (leave the other two
standoffs as they are). These standoffs have threaded
studs coming out from the center.
Step 32: Place the new LCD on the threaded studs on
the front panel as shown.
Step 33: Place the four nuts back on the threaded
studs and tighten. Do not over tighten. If needed,
push on the panel only slightly in each corner to get
the nut(s) started. Watch closely and do not over
stress the panel.
Step 34: Slide the front panel back on to the side
panels of the chassis. Position the four plastic tabs on
the front panel to the outside of the chassis side
panels. Plug the cables back into the corresponding
connectors. Remember that cable #12 does not have
a number on the board. It connects to the two-pin
connector on the new LCD. If desired, two of the
screws that are used to secure the front panel to the
chassis side panels may be attached at this time to
allow the front panel to pivot. If not desired, all four
screws will be attached shortly.
Step 35: Note that with the new LCD and Model 538
versions with the chassis shield (the piece with the
flexible brass grounding tabs); the two-pin connector
slightly brushes against the shield when the front
panel is replaced. Simply maneuver the connector to
get it by the chassis shield. The side of the connector
is well insulated, so there will be no problem with the
connector making contact with the metal shield.
Step 36: The flat ribbon cables should be plugged in
just as they were before they were unplugged. The
smaller one (#2) can be somewhat difficult to insert
into its socket if it is not aligned just right. Be careful
not to bend the corners trying to get it plugged in
(bent corners will make it next to impossible to get it
plugged in and may damage the cable). Ensure that
the cable is straight and with a slight amount of
pressure, insert the cable into its socket. Also, insert
the LCD cable (#7) onto its connector. Be sure to
align properly. Misalignment may damage display.
Step 37: On versions of the Model 538 that have the
capacitors from the mic jack to the chassis, now is the
time to reattach the lug to the chassis using the
hardware that had been previously set aside.
Step 38: Now that all of the cables have been
reconnected, reattach the front panel to the chassis
using the hardware that had been previously set aside
(two of these screws may have already been inserted
if the pivot option was chosen earlier). At this point,
double check all cables to ensure proper seating into
their corresponding connectors.
Open the Firmware Upgrade Instructions (p/n 74422)
and follow Steps 4 – 7, then return here to Step 39.
Step 39: Inspect the Logic Board (shown above).
There are two 100 Ohm resistors (marked 101) that
must be changed to 0 Ohm resistors. They are R147
and R148. On versions of the Model 538 that do not
have these resistors, please disregard this step and
proceed to the Step 40. On versions of the Model
538 that do have these resistors, locate them in the
above picture and proceed to the next step.
Step 40: This step requires use of a soldering iron.
Some soldering experience is recommended here.
Using some tweezers, place the 0 Ohm resistors on
top of the existing 100 Ohm (marked 101) resistors
that are already there. Proceed by soldering the 0
Ohm resistors at R147 and R148. Be careful not to
use so much heat that the pads on the circuit board
are damaged. Inspect the solder to ensure that there
are no shorts and that the solder joints look good.
Step 41: If the Model 538 had a tuner, now is the
time to reinstall the tuner deck. Position the tuner
deck in the chassis as shown and line up the four
screw holes. No tuner, proceed to Step 43.
Step 42: Using the hardware that was set aside
earlier, reattach the tuner chassis. Notice also in the
picture above, the routing of the tuner wires. Be
careful not to pinch any of these wires when
reinstalling the tuner deck.
Step 43: Before putting the top cover back on,
connect the speaker as shown. Feed the cable back
through the hole in the chassis and plug it into
connector #17. DO NOT PLUG into the spare
connector next to it. Please ensure that the cable is
plugged into connector #17.
Step 44: Install the top and bottom covers. Work the
bottom cover into the lip in the front panel and push
forward aligning the holes. Do the same for the top
cover also working the cover together at the lip along
the side panel. Using the same hardware that was
originally removed to take the covers off, put the
covers back on.
Step 45: Screw the ten Torx head screws back into
the rear of the Jupiter.
Step 46: Screw the four large Phillips head screws
back into the sides of the Jupiter.
Congratulations! Turn the power on and enjoy!
Every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained in this document is
accurate, and that the modification may easily be performed in the field. However,
caution should be taken as unwarranted damage to the radio may result. If after reading
these instructions you feel this modification is too difficult, the service department is
available to perform this modification for a reasonable charge. Please contact the service
department for details.
E-mail [email protected]
Phone (865)428-0364
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