DT Installation Instructions
OWNER’S GUIDE
& INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Retractable Thru-hull
Depth & Temperature Transducer
Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.
Part No._________________Date___________Frequency________kHz
Models: DT800, DT800V
17-395-01 rev. 04
09/06
U.S. Patents: 4,898,029; Re-issue 33, 982; 6,904,798 B2.
Australian Patent 605,281.Canadian Patent 1,313,775. Japanese Patent 1851014
IMPORTANT: Please read the instructions completely
before proceeding with the installation. These
instructions supersede any other instructions in your
instrument manual if they differ.
CAUTION: NEVER USE SOLVENTS!
Cleaners, fuel, paint, sealants, and other products may
contain strong solvents, such as acetone, which attack
many plastics greatly reducing their strength.
DT800
in a plastic
low-profile housing
Applications
Fairing
• Plastic housing recommended for fiberglass or metal hulls only.
Never install a plastic housing in a wood hull since swelling of
the wood can possibly fracture the plastic.
Caution: Never use a fairing with a plastic housing; the protruding
transducer would be vulnerable to damage from impact.
• Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hulls.
Never mount a bronze housing in an aluminum hull because
electrolytic corrosion will occur.
Antifouling Paint
• Stainless steel housing compatible with all hull materials.
Recommended for aluminum hulls to prevent electrolytic corrosion
provided the stainless steel housing is isolated from the metal hull.
• Never install a metal housing in a vessel with a positive ground
system.
Tools & Materials
Water-based antifouling paint (MANDATORY IN SALT WATER)
Safety goggles
Dust mask
Electric drill with 10mm (3/8") or larger chuck capacity
Drill bit:
3mm or 1/8"
Hole saw:
51mm or 2" (plastic or bronze housing)
57mm or 2-1/4" (stainless steel housing in a metal hull)
Countersink tool (installing a flush housing)
Sandpaper
Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)
File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)
Additional washer [for aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick]
Slip-joint pliers (installing a bronze housing)
Zip-ties
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (see page 3):
Hole saw for hull interior: 60mm or 2-3/8"
Fiberglass cloth and resin
or Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer’s surface
reducing performance within weeks. Surfaces exposed to salt water
must be coated with antifouling paint. Use WATER-BASED
antifouling paint only. Never use ketone-based paint, since ketones
can attack many plastics possibly damaging the transducer.
It is easier to apply
antifouling paint before
installation, but allow
sufficient drying time.
Reapply paint every 6
months or at the
beginning of each boating
season. Paint the
following surfaces
(see Figure 1):
• Outside wall of the
insert below the lower
O-ring
insert
outside wall
below lower
O-ring
exposed end
housing
• Exposed end of the
insert
• Bore of the housing up
30mm (1-1/4")
• Exterior lip of the
housing
• Blanking plug below the
lower O-ring including
the exposed end
exterior lip
of housing
inside bore of
housing up 30mm (1-1/4")
Figure 1. Antifouling paint
DT800V shown
Copyright © 2006 Airmar Technology Corp.
Hull Types (see Figure 2)
large displacement hulls
small displacement hulls
stepped hull
outboard and I/O
planing hulls
fin keel sailboats
• Displacement hull powerboats—Locate amidships near the
centerline. The starboard side of the hull where the propeller
blades are moving downward is preferred.
• Planing hull powerboats—Mount well aft, on or near the
centerline, and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to insure
that the transducer will be in contact with the water at high speeds.
The starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades are
moving downward is preferred.
Outboard and I/O—Mount just forward of the engine(s).
Inboard—Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).
Stepped hull—Mount just ahead of the first step.
Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29MPH)—Review the
installation location and operating results of similar boats before
proceeding.
• Fin keel sailboats—Mount on or as close as possible to the
centerline and forward of the fin keel 300–600mm (1–2').
• Full keel sailboats—Locate amidships and away from the keel
at the point of minimum deadrise.
full keel sailboats
Figure 2.
Installation
Best location for transducer
Cored fiberglass hull—Follow separate instructions on page 3.
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.
Hole Drilling
Mounting Location
• The water flowing across the hull must be smooth with a
minimum of bubbles and turbulence (especially at high speeds).
Caution: DO NOT MOUNT near water intake or discharge
openings, or behind strakes, fittings, or hull irregularities.
• The transducer must be continuously immersed in water.
• The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or
propeller shaft(s).
• Choose a location away from interference caused by power and
radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other
machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower
the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that
can be used.
• Choose a location with a deadrise angle of 20º or less, so the
transducer beam will be aimed at the bottom.
• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with adequate
headroom for the height of the housing, tightening the nuts, and
removing the insert. Allow a minimum of 280mm (11").
plastic housing
Warning: Always wear safety goggles and a dust mask.
1. Drill a 3mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib,
strut or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting
location, drill from the outside.
2. Using the appropriate size hole saw, cut a hole from outside the hull.
Flush housing—Use a countersink tool to create a seat in the hull.
3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is any
petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
Metal hull—Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.
Bedding
Caution: A stainless steel housing must be isolated from a metal
hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion.
Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of marine sealant around the lip of
the housing that contacts the hull and up the sidewall of the
housing (see Figure 3). The sealant must extend 6mm (1/4")
higher than the combined thickness of the hull, the washer(s), and
metal housing in non-metal hull
stainless steel housing in metal hull
insert
insert
cap nut
BOW ➤
(plastic)
cap nut
(plastic)
housing
safety wire
safety wire
housing
hull nut
washer
hull (metal)
hull nut
washer
hull
isolation
ring
marine sealant on lip
and sidewall of housing
marine sealant on lip
and sidewall of housing
Figure 3. Bedding and installing—DT800V shown
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.
2
marine sealant on lip and
sidewall of housing
and isolation ring where it contacts hull
the hull nut. This will ensure there is sealant in the threads to seal
the hull and to hold the hull nut securely in place.
time. Then lead the wire counterclockwise and through the eye
in the insert. Twist the wire securely to itself.
Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—To isolate the stainless
steel housing from the metal hull, slide the isolation ring onto the
housing. Apply additional sealant to the surfaces of the ring that
will contact the hull, filling any cavities in and around the ring.
Caution: If your transducer came with a connector, do not
remove it to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and
spliced, use Airmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and
follow the instructions provided. Cutting the cable or removing
the waterproof connector, except when using Airmar’s junction
box, will void the transducer warranty.
8. Route the cable to the instrument being careful not to tear the
cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other
parts of the boat. To reduce electrical interference, separate the
transducer cable from other electrical wiring and the engine.
Coil any excess cable and secure it in place with zip-ties to
prevent damage.
9. Refer to the instrument owner’s manual to connect the
transducer to the instrument.
Installing
Caution: Never pull, carry, or hold the transducer by the cable as
this may sever internal connections.
1. From outside the hull, push the housing into the mounting hole
using a twisting motion to squeeze out excess marine sealant
(see Figure 3). Align the arrow on the lip of the housing to point
forward toward the bow.
2. From inside the hull, slide the washer onto the housing.
Aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick—Use an
additional rubbery, fiberglass, or plastic washer. Never use
bronze since electrolytic corrosion will occur. Never use wood
since it will swell, possibly fracturing the plastic housing.
Warning: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull only—Be
sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten the hull nut
with the washer against the isolation ring, as the housing will
not be firmly installed. If necessary, sand the isolation ring until
the washer rests against the hull.
3. Screw the hull nut in place being sure the arrow on the rim of
the housing is still positioned forward toward the bow.
Plastic housing—Do not clamp tightly on the wrenching flats
possibly causing the housing to fracture.
Plastic hull nut—HAND-TIGHTEN only. Do not over-tighten.
Metal hull nut—Tighten with slip-joint pliers.
Cored Fiberglass Hull—Do not over-tighten, crushing the hull.
Wood hull—Allow the wood to swell before tightening the nut.
4. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to
ensure smooth water flow over the transducer.
Warning: The O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to
make a watertight seal.
5. After the marine sealant cures, inspect the O-rings on the insert
(replace if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone
lubricant supplied.
Warning: Be sure the insert is fully inserted into the housing,
and the cap nut is screwed on completely.
6. Slide the insert into the housing with any arrow on the top
pointing in the direction indicated. Screw the cap nut several
turns until the threads are engaged. Continue to tighten the cap
nut. HAND-TIGHTEN only. Do not over tighten. Be careful not
to rotate the housing and disturb the sealant.
Warning: Always attach the safety wire to prevent the insert
from backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is
screwed on incorrectly.
7. Attach the safety wire.
Plastic housing—Attach the safety wire to one eye in the hull
nut. Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire in a
counterclockwise direction and thread it through one eye in the
cap nut. Thread the wire through the eye a second time. Then
lead the wire through the eye in the insert. Twist the wire
securely to itself.
Metal housing—Wrap one end of the safety wire tightly around
the housing and twist it together with the long end. Keeping the
wire taut throughout, lead the wire straight up and through one
eye in the cap nut. Thread the wire through the eye a second
Installation in a Cored Fiberglass Hull
The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully. The
core must be protected from water seepage, and the hull must be
reinforced to prevent it from crushing under the hull nut allowing
the housing to become loose.
Warning: Always wear safety goggles and a dust mask.
1. Drill a 3mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib,
strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting location,
drill from the outside. (If the hole is drilled in the wrong location,
drill a second hole in a better location. Apply masking tape to the
outside of the hull over the incorrect hole and fill it with epoxy.)
2. Using a 51mm or 2" hole saw, cut the hole from outside the hull
through the outer skin only (see Figure 4).
3. From inside the hull, use a 60mm or 2-3/8" hole saw to cut
through the inner skin and most of the core. The core material
can be very soft. Apply only light pressure to the hole saw after
cutting through the inner skin to avoid accidentally cutting the
outer skin.
4. Remove the plug of core material so the inside of the outer skin
and the inner core of the hull are fully exposed. Sand and clean
the inner skin, core, and the outer skin around the hole.
Caution: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage
into the core.
5. If you are skilled with fiberglass, saturate a layer of fiberglass
cloth with a suitable resin and lay it inside the hole to seal and
strengthen the core. Add layers until the hole is the correct
diameter.
Alternatively, a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter
can be coated with wax and taped in place. Fill the gap between
the cylinder and hull with casting epoxy. After the epoxy has set,
remove the cylinder.
9-12 mm
(3/8-1/2")
larger than the
hole through the
hull’s outer skin
pour in
casting
epoxy
inner skin
core
hull thickness
solid or hollow cylinder
outer skin
Figure 4. Preparing a cored fiberglass hull
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.
3
6. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is
any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
7. Proceed with “Bedding” and “Installing” (see pages 2 and 3).
insert
blanking plug
Checking for Leaks
Warning: DO NOT leave the boat in the water unchecked for
several days.
When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check the
thru-hull transducer for leaks. Note that very small leaks may not
be readily observed. Do not to leave the boat in the water for more
than 3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small leak,
there may be considerable bilge water accumulation after 24
hours. If a leak is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing”
immediately (see pages 2 and 3).
Operation & Maintenance
small
O-ring(s)
Figure 5. Replacing the O-rings
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.
WARNING: Always attach the safety wire to prevent the
blanking plug from backing out in the unlikely event that the
insert nut and/or cap nut fails or is screwed on incorrectly.
4. Reattach the safety wire.
DT800V only—How the Valve Works
Servicing the Insert
WARNING: THE VALVE IS NOT A WATERTIGHT SEAL!
Always use the insert or the blanking plug secured with the
safety wire for a watertight seal.
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer’s
surface reducing performance within weeks. Clean the insert with
a Scotch-Brite® scour pad and mild household detergent, being
careful to avoid scratching the depth transducer. If fouling is
severe, lightly wet sand it with fine grade wet/dry paper.
The DT800V incorporates a self-closing valve which minimizes
the flow of water into the boat when the insert is removed. The
curved flap valve is activated by both a spring and water pressure.
Water pushes the flap valve upward to block the opening, so there
is no gush of water into the boat.
O-rings must be free of abrasions and cuts to ensure a watertight
seal. Install two O-rings near the bottom of the insert
(see Figure 5). Place the remaining two O-rings in similar
positions on the blanking plug.
Winterizing
Using the Blanking Plug
To protect the insert, use the blanking plug:
• When the boat will be kept in salt water for more than a week.
• When the boat will be removed from the water.
• When aquatic growth buildup is suspected due to inaccurate
readings from the instrument.
Warning: The O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to
make a watertight seal.
1. On the blanking plug, inspect the O-rings (replace if necessary)
and lubricate them with the silicone lubricant supplied or
petroleum jelly (Vaseline®) (see Figure 5).
2. Remove the insert from the housing by removing the safety wire
and unscrewing the cap nut (see Figure 3). This will jack out
the insert.
DT800—With the blanking plug ready in one hand, pull the
insert most of the way out. Remove the insert and rapidly
replace it with the blanking plug. With practice, only 250ml
(10oz.) of water will enter the boat.
DT800V—Grasp the insert and remove it with a slow pulling
motion. Slide the blanking plug into the housing.
Note: In the very unlikely event that the valve breaks, replace
the housing the next time the boat is hauled.
Warning: Be sure the blanking plug is fully inserted into the
housing, and the cap nut is screwed on completely.
3. Screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are engaged.
Continue to tighten the cap nut. HAND-TIGHTEN only.
Do not over-tighten.
AIRMAR
After the boat has been hauled for winter storage, remove the
blanking plug to let the water drain away before reinserting it. This
will prevent any water from freezing around the blanking plug and
possibly cracking it.
Replacement Parts
Lost, broken, or worn parts should be replace immediately. Obtain
parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.
Gemeco (USA)
Airmar Europe
Tel:
Fax:
email:
Tel:
Fax:
email:
843.394.3565
843.394.3736
[email protected]
+45.45.81.04.18
+45.45.81.04.93
[email protected]
If you have purchased a plastic housing and have a wood hull or
desire greater strength, purchase an Airmar metal housing.
Hull Nut or
Isolation Ring
04-004 (plastic)
02-030 (bronze)
02-570-01 (stainless steel)
04-186-1 (isolation ring)
Housing, Nut & Washer
NO VALVE
33-100 (bronze, low profile, B17)
33-224-01 (bronze, counterbore, B21)
33-091-01 (bronze, flush, B119)
33-495-01 (stainless steel, low profile, SS577)
O-rings
Blanking Plug
Housing with Valve, Nut & Washer
33-519-01
33-538-01
33-510-01 (plastic, low profile, P617)
Transducer Replacement—The information needed to order a
replacement Airmar multisensor is printed on the cable tag. Do
not remove this tag. When ordering, specify the part number,
date, and frequency in kHz. For convenient reference, record this
information on the top of page one.
®
TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION
4
35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA
www.airmar.com
■
Copyright © 2003, 2005, 2006 Airmar Technology Corp. All rights reserved.
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