2003-2006 GM Truck/SUV 2500
Installation Instructions for:
Radix
Intercooled Supercharger System
2003-2006
Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Trucks
Suburban 2500, Yukon XL 2500
& Avalanche 2500
Step-by-step instructions for installing the best in
supercharger systems.
ATTENTION!
Your MAGNA CHARGER intercooler kit
is sensitive to corrosion!
Take care of if by using 50/50
anti-freeze with de-ionized water.
89-89-60-002 Rev J
Magnuson Products inc
1990 Knoll Drive, Ventura, CA. 93003
(805) 289-0044 * (805) 677-4897 fax
magnusonproducts.com * magnacharger.com
INSTALLATION MANUAL
Magna Charger
Radix Intercooled Supercharger System
GM 4.8, 5.3 & 6.0 Liter Engines
We encourage you to read this manual thoroughly before you begin work, for a few reasons:
A quick parts checkt to make certain your kit is complete (see shipper parts list in this manual). If you
discover shipping damage or shortage, please call our office immediately.
Take a look at exactly what you are going to need in terms of tools, time, and experience.
Review our limited warranty with care.
Make sure to have 91 or high octane fuel in the tank.
When unpacking the supercharger kit DO NOT lift the supercharger assembly by the black plastic
bypass actuator. This is pre-set from the factory and can me altered if used as a lifting point!
Tools Required
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•
Safety glasses
•
Metric wrench set
•
1/4” drill bit
•
1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2” drive metric socket set (standard and deep)
•
8mm hex (Allen) wrench
•
3/8” and 1/2” drive foot pound and inch pound torque wrenches
•
Belt tensioner wrench or 1/2” breaker bar
•
7/32” socket
•
Drill and 5/16” drill bit
•
Phillips and flat head head screwdrivers
•
Fuel quick disconnect tools (included in kit)
•
E5 inverted Torx socket
•
Small or angled 3/8” drill motor
•
Drain pan
•
Compressed air
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IMPORTANT
Our Magna Charger kits are designed for stock engines, with stock components, in good mechanical condition only. Installation on worn or damaged engines is not recommended and may result in
engine failure, for which we naturally can’t be responsible. Magna Charger is not responsible for the
engine or consequential damages.
Aftermarket engine re-calibration devices that modify fuel and spark curve (i.e., programers) are not
recommended and may cause engine damage or failure. If you have any questions, call us!
Caution: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components in order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of fuel
may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the risk of personal
injury, cover the regulator and fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting. This will catch
any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel in an approved container when the job is complete, and of
course, no smoking.
Magna Charger strongly recommends the following:
•
Clean your engine compartment before starting any engine disassembly.
•
You must have a clean fuel filter - check and replace as needed before installation.
•
You must have a clean air filter - this system comes with a new air filter for your convenience.
•
OE type/Stock spark plugs and stock plug gap is recommended.
•
Start with and use only 91 octane fuel or higher.
•
Drive belt is a Gates #K061120.
After you finish your installation and road test your vehicle, please fill out and mail the limited warranty
card, so we can add you to our files (this is important for your protection).
Please remember to follow all safety rules that apply when working, including:
5/07
•
Wear eye protection at all times.
•
Do not work on a hot engine.
•
Be careful aroun fuel - use shop towels to catch any spills and dispose of
towels properly.
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1. Start the supercharger installation by installing the upgraded fuel pump. Ensure that the fuel
tank is less than 1/8” full (preferably empty) by
checking the fuel level gauge. Even though the
gauge may read empty, some residual fuel will
be present in the tank. Exercise extreme caution
and common sense when working around gasoline. Extinguish all open flame or other sources
of ignition and be sure to perform the following
steps in an area with adequate ventilation. Personal protection in the form of eye protection and
fuel resistant gloves are strongly recommended.
2. On the right (passenger) side of the intake
manifold, locate the fuel pressure test port. CAUTION! The fuel in the system is under pressure!
Relieve the pressure in the fuel system by depressing the check valve with a screwdriver and
collecting the fuel with a shop towel.
3. Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by removing the fuel filler cap. The following steps are
for 2004-on vehicles. For 2003 skip this section
and continue to step 40.
4. Loosen the clamp and remove the fuel fill pipe
from the tank. Unclip the tank vent hose from the
filler pipe.
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5. Loosen the clamp and remove the vent hose
from the fuel fill pipe.
6. Disconnect the fuel feed and vapor lines from
the front tank. Unclip the metal and vapor lines
from the plastic retaining clip on the tank.
7. Disconnect the EVAP connectors from the
side of the fuel tank.
8. Remove the canister vent solenoid from its
mounting clip by pressing the clip release trigger
on the tank. Unfasten the harness clip from the
tank shield.
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9. Remove the fuel tank straps by removing
the two strap bolts with a 15mm socket wrench.
Gently lower the fuel tank down approximately
18” to gain access to the connections on the top
of the tank.
10. Disconnect the large electrical connector on
the top of the tank by pulling back on the gray
lock tab and squeezing the end of the connector. Disconnect the tank pressure sensor connector by lifting up on its lock clip and pulling
back on the connector. Disconnect the fuel and
vapor connections on the top of the tank module.
Squeeze the colored tabs on the bottom of the
two smaller connectors together and then push
up on the tabs to release the connectors. Push
the large vapor connector towards the tank module; squeeze the sides of it and then pull back to
release it from the tank module. Lower the tank
free from the vehicle. With the aid of an assistant, remove the fuel tank to a suitable work area.
11. The tank module is retained in the tank by a
lock ring that locks into a retaining collar on the
tank.
12. Note: The position of the lock ring in relation
to the collar.
Lock Ring
Lock Ring
Collar
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13. CAUTION! USE A NON METALLIC HAMMER OR DRIFT to remove the lock ring by tapping the ring counter-clockwise. Do not use a
metallic hammer and/or drift as a spark may
result and ignite a fire.
14. After rotating the lock ring counter-clockwise,
remove the lock ring.
15. Pull the module out of the tank carefully, so
the fuel level float will not catch on the edge of
the opening. Once the fuel module is removed
from the tank, the white plastic “can” of the fuel
module will still contain about one quart (1 liter)
of fuel. Carefully tilt the module “can” so you can
pour this excess fuel back into the tank.
16. After removing the module from the tank, use
a shop towel to cover the tank opening to prevent
any debris from entering.
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17. Here is the fuel tank module assembly as
removed from the fuel tank. Prepare a well-ventilated work space away from any source of ignition or open flame. Lay the module assembly on
clean, dry shop towels to catch any residual fuel
as you disassemble it.
18. On the underside of the module’s mounting
flange, unplug the electrical connectors for the
fuel pump and the fuel level transmitter.
19. Locate the fuel pressure regulator mounted
on the white plastic body of the fuel module. Using a straight blade screwdriver, gently pry up on
the regulator until the regulator is unplugged from
the module body. The O-ring on the base of the
regulator will be visible at this point.
Regulator
O-ring
20. Using two small screwdrivers, gently pry out
the two lock tabs that hold the pump to filter hose
connector in place. Remove the filter connector
and hose from the filter.
Lock Tab
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21. Disassemble the module assembly by separating the module “can” from the module body.
To do this, gently pry up on the three retaining
clips located along the top edge of the can. It
may be helpful to use three small screwdrivers as
wedges to hold the edges of the can up as you
pull the can free.
22. Here is the module can separated from the
module body. Note: The fuel pump has remained
in the module body. Set the can with the fuel
level transmitter aside for now for reinstallation in
a later step.
23. Unclip the fuel strainer from the module
body; this will free the fuel pump.
24. Pull the fuel pump, strainer, feed line and
electrical harness free from the module.
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25. Disconnect the electrical harness from the
pump and remove the O-ring from the connector
as they will be reused. The pump and attached
components will not.
26. Here are the new fuel pump components.
Hose
Crimp
connector
clamps
Sleeve
Spade terminals
Strainer
Pump
Hose
27. Assemble the fuel line by sliding a crimpclamp over the end of the hose first and then
pushing the hose on the barbed end of the new
fuel hose connector.
28. Use a pair of side cutting pliers to crimp the
loop of the crimp-clamp around the fuel hose.
Take care not to cut the loop but only tighten it.
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29. Install the mounting sleeve over the body of
the fuel pump. Slide a crimp-clamp over the end
of the fuel hose and then install the hose on the
outlet nipple of the new pump. Crimp the loop of
the crimp-clamp around the fuel line. Take care
not to cut the loop but only tighten it.
30. On one end of the pump harness, cut the
wires 1” from the plug and strip the insulation
back 1/4”. Onto the stripped wire ends, install the
crimp/shrink spade terminals supplied.
31. Using a heat gun or blow dryer set on HIGH;
shrink the insulation on the spade terminals so
that it contracts around the wires completely. You
must shrink the insulation, as crimping the terminals alone is not enough to secure them!
32. Install the pump harness on the top of
the fuel pump. Note: The pump terminals are
marked “+” and “-“. Install the gray wire on the
“+” terminal and the black wire on the “-“ terminal.
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33. Install the fuel strainer by placing it on a hard
surface and aligning the large inlet nipple on
the bottom of the pump with the opening on the
strainer. Note: The strainer should be pointing
towards the outlet nipple side of the pump. Press
down firmly with the pump so that the strainer
slides on until its collar is against the bottom of
the pump.
34. Insert the pump assembly, hose and harness first, into the body of the fuel module. Position the pump so that the fuel strainer is pointing
towards the fuel filter.
35. Install the O-ring from the original fuel hose
connector on the new connector. Insert the new
connector into the top of the fuel filter until it
“clicks” into place.
36. On the inside of the can, ensure that the
module tension spring is located in its channel.
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Spring
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37. Slide the can back over the body of the tank
module until the three clips at the top of the body
snap into place. Reconnect the pump and transmitter connectors to the underside of the module
mounting flange.
38. Press the regulator down into position, ensure that it’s sealing O-ring is not visible. The
tank module assembly is now ready for re-installation into the fuel tank.
39. Reinstall the tank module into the tank with
the large vapor nipple pointing towards the metal
tank shield. Coat the bottom surface of the lock
ring with some of the grease supplied, then install
the ring on the retaining collar. Apply some more
grease on the seven raised lock bumps on the
surface of the lock ring. Using the same tools
you used to remove the lock ring, rotate the ring
clock-wise until the lock bumps are in the same
position as they were in step 12. With the help
of an assistant, reposition the fuel tank back into
the position on your jack. Reattach the fuel vapor
and electrical connectors by pushing them in.
Raise the tank back into its original position and
reinstall the fuel tank straps with a 17mm socket
wrench, torque these bolts to 40lb-ft. Slide the
canister vent solenoid on the side of the tank. At
the front tank, clip the metal fuel and vapor lines
into the plastic retaining clip on the tank. Install
the fuel and vapor connectors onto the metal
lines. Install the fuel fill pipe onto the tank and
tighten the clamp securely. Refill the fuel tank
with 91 octane or higher.
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40. With a 8mm wrench disconnect the (-) negative battery cable. Make sure the cable is far
enough away from the battery that it does not
accidentally touch the battery and make connection during the installation. (Wrap negative cable
connector with electrical tape.)
41. With a cool engine remove the radiator cap.
(Be careful not to remove the cap if the engine is
still hot.)
42. Open radiator petcock and drain coolant into
a clean drain pan. Save coolant for reuse later
on.
43. Remove the plastic sight shield bolt using a
10mm socket wrench.
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44. Lift plastic shield from top of engine.
45. Using a 8mm nut driver loosen the two large
hose clamps holding the air cleaner duct assembly.
46. Remove the duct assembly by lifting it out.
Sight shield and duct assembly will not be reused.
47. Unplug the electrical connector to the MAF
sensor.
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48. Firmly grasp the air intake box and pull up
removing it from the vehicle.
49. To prevent foam from escaping, insert the
black plastic plug supplied in the hole located
in the upper edge of the right (passenger) side
wheel well.
50. Locate the can of expansion foam in your
kit. Follow the directions on the back of the
can. Insert the end of the straw into the hole
and dispense the foam into the hole for 10 to
12 seconds. In the existing hole that is just to
the rear of the slot that the coolant tank sits in,
again dispense the foam into the hole for 10 to
12 seconds. You will not need the entire can. Do
not attempt to over fill the fender. (Note: Do not
disturb foam for 8 hours.) Noise levels will be
drastically reduced when foam has set.
51. Using a long pair of pliers, remove the coolant hoses from the bottom of the throttle body.
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52. Remove the PCV vent hose from the throttle
body or intake manifold on passenger side. (Depending on year.)
53. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove the
three bolts that fasten the cover support bracket
from the top of the intake manifold.
54. Open the large electrical harness retainer
clip, then using a 10mm socket wrench remove
the bolts holding the plastic wire harness retainer
to the intake manifold.
55. Disconnect the following electrical and hose
connections from the intake manifold area.
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56. Disconnect the eight fuel injector connections
by gently pulling up on the gray plastic release
trigger on the connector and then pulling firmly on
the connector itself.
57. Disconnect Electrical Throttle Control (ETC)
connector from the throttle body by removing the
gray plastic locking tab first, then squeeze and
pull free the ETC connector itself.
58. At the rear of the of the intake manifold disconnect the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor connector by gently raising the gray plastic retaining clip and then pull free the connector
itself.
59. Disconnect the engine knock sensor connector and steel-mounting clip from the intake
manifold by prying it free with a small screwdriver.
Next, gently raise the black plastic retaining clip
and then pull free the connector from the harness.
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2003-2006 Trucks & 2500 SUV's Supercharger Installation Instructions
Knock Sensor
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EVAP Connector
60. Disconnect the evaporative purge solenoid
EVAP connector by raising the black plastic retaining clip and then pull free the connector itself.
61. Lift the electrical harness from the top of the
engine and set off to the side.
62. Remove the power brake hose from the control valve. (Some vehicles have hydraulic assist
and do not have this hose.)
63. With the fuel line disconnect tool supplied,
remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. Caution!
The system may be under pressure. Avoid open
flame or other sources of ignition.
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64. Disconnect the EVAP vent tube from the solenoid by squeezing the retainer, then release the
tube from the solenoid. Follow the same procedure on the other end of the EVAP vent tube and
remove the tube from the vehicle.
65. Remove the Positive Crankcase Vent (PCV)
vacuum hose from the intake manifold on driver
side.
66. Using a 8mm socket wrench remove the ten
intake manifold bolts.
67. Carefully remove the intake manifold assembly and set aside.
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68. Using a vacuum cleaner, remove any dirt or
debris from the intake port area. (Be careful not
to get any dirt in the intake ports.)
69. Cover the intake ports with tape or clean
rags to keep dirt and objects from entering the
engine. (Remember, be clean.)
70. Using a 15mm wrench, remove the steel
bracket from the rear of the driver side cylinder
head. This will not be reused.
71. Using a 10mm socket wrench remove the
two coolant vent pipe bolts.
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72. Remove the vent pipe assembly. (Make sure
that the O-ring gaskets did not stick to the cylinder heads, if so remove them.)
73. Using a 15mm tensioner wrench or breaker
bar, remove the stock serpentine belt from the
vehicle. The belt will not be reused.
74. Using a 15mm socket wrench remove the
three bolts holding the factory belt tensioner to
the bracket and remove the tensioner.
75. Using a 10mm wrench disconnect the battery
positive terminal from the back of the alternator.
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76. With a 15mm socket wrench remove the
two bolts holding the alternator to the alternator
bracket. Remove the alternator.
77. Remove the long oil filler neck from the valve
cover by rotating it 180 degrees counter clockwise and pulling it out.
78. Install the short oil filler neck supplied by
inserting it into the valve cover and rotating it 180
degrees clock-wise. Transfer the oil fill cap from
the long neck to the new short one.
79. Take the new supplied coolant vent pipe and
test fit to the front of the cylinder heads. Check
for clearance between the pipe and the alternator
bracket as shown.
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80. Use a felt tip marker and mark the alternator
bracket were the coolant vent pipe hits as shown.
81. Using a file or die grinder, remove material
from the alternator mounting bracket marked in
the previous step. Once clearance is achieved,
recheck with the new vent pipe. Ensure that the
vent pipe does not touch the alternator bracket.
82. Using the stock bolts removed in step 71
install the new coolant vent pipe supplied. Ensure that the O-ring seals are installed correctly.
Torque the bolts with a torque wrench and 10mm
socket to 106 lb-in.
83. Using the new supplied 16” x 3/8” PCV
vacuum hose, connect one end to the PCV valve
as shown and lay the other end of the hose off to
the driver side, out of the way. (To be connected
in a later step.)
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84. Install the intake manifold gaskets supplied
onto the supercharger manifold. Ensure that
the gaskets are fully seated into the reliefs in the
manifold.
85. Remove the stock MAP sensor from the
stock intake manifold by pulling back on the two
tabs and lifting the sensor out. Ensure that the
orange MAP sensor seal is not damaged, as it
will be used.
86. Put some lubricant on the MAP sensor seal
and press the MAP sensor into the provided hole
in the supercharger manifold as shown.
87. Using a 4mm allen wrench, install the MAP
sensor retaining clip with the provided 6mm button head screw as shown.
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88. Remove the power brake hose and clamp
from the stock intake manifold.
89. Install the power brake hose and clamp removed in the previous step to the large hose barb
on the rear of the supercharger inlet manifold.
Remove the cap from the remaining barb for the
PCV hose to be installed in a later step.
90. The following steps are for 2003 vehicles
only, 2004-on skip to step 94. Remove the
stock fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail
by disconnecting the vacuum hose, pulling off
the spring clip and pulling the regulator out. Be
careful not to lose any of the small O-rings on the
regulator.
91. Make sure that the two O-rings and the
screen filter is complete as shown.
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92. Using a small amount of grease or oil lubricate the two O-rings on the fuel pressure regulator and push it into the new supplied fuel manifold
as shown.
93. Using a pair of C-clip pliers install the new
supplied C-clip into the fuel manifold as shown.
(Make sure that the clip seats into the machined
grove in the manifold.)
94. Apply a small amount of grease to the new
supplied fuel manifold O-ring and set in the machined recessed area on the new driver side fuel
rail as shown.
95. Install the assembled fuel manifold to the
driver side fuel rail using the two new supplied
6mm bolts. Using a 10mm socket wrench torque
the bolts to 106 lb-in. (Be careful not to pinch the
O-ring.)
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96. This step is for 2003 vehicles only, 2004-on
skip to step 97. Using the small 3/16” hose supplied, connect one end to the small barb on the
pressure regulator. Connect the remaining end of
the hose to the barb at the left rear of the supercharger manifold.
Pressure
regulator
barb
Manifold
barb
97. Using a 10mm socket wrench remove the
stock throttle body from the stock intake manifold.
Next, using a #5 internal Torx socket remove the
three mounting studs from the stock intake manifold.
98. Install the three studs removed in the previous step into the new supercharger inlet manifold
using a #5 internal Torx socket and wrench.
99. Remove the EVAP solenoid from the stock
manifold with a 10mm socket wrench.
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100. Lubricate the O-ring with the supplied
grease.
101. Mount EVAP solenoid on front of intake
manifold.
102. Remove the one bolt directly below the alternator and factory GM idler with a 15mm socket
wrench.
103. Here is the new tensioner support bracket
and hardware. The new bracket will locate in the
original tensioner location. Note: The different
fasteners and their locations.
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104. In the original tensioner location, install the
new tensioner support bracket. Torque all mounting fasteners to 40 lb-ft.
105. Install the tensioner and it’s mounting bolt
on the new mounting bracket. Torque the tensioner mounting bolt to 50 lb-ft.
106. Install the 90mm idler and spacer on the
idler support bracket. Torque the mounting bolt to
40 lb-ft.
107. Spray silicone or some mild soap and water
solution on cylinder head surface to lubricate.
This makes the intake manifold slide around a
little to help line up the holes. (Do not use anything that will damage the intake gaskets such as
petroleum based products, etc.)
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108. Using an assistant, carefully lower manifold
assembly into place, being careful not to damage
gaskets.
109. Remove the 10 spilt looms that support the
fasteners. Start all ten bolts by hand.
110. Torque all 10 bolts gradually and evenly to a
torque of 89 in-lbs.
111. Push the fuel line connector on to the fuel
manifold. Ensure that the fuel line is pushed all
the way on. Pull on the connector to check that
it is secure, you should not be able to remove the
connector unless you use the removal tool.
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112. Using supplied gasket, mount throttle body
using stock nuts and torgue them to 89in-lbs.
113. Remove the wiring harness from the original
bracket.
114. Route the wiring harness over the left side
fuel rail and attach it to the supercharger manifold
as shown, using the Adel clamp and bolt supplied.
Adel Clamp
115. Plug in the electrical connectors for the following components, the Fuel Injectors, Electronic
Throttle Control, Map Sensor, Knock Sensor and
EVAP Solenoid.
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116. Attach one end of the 1/4” coolant hose
supplied to the new steam vent pipe and the
other end to the barb on the bottom of the throttle
body with the clamps supplied. Attach the original steam vent hose and clamp from the radiator
to the remaining barb on the bottom of the throttle
body.
117. Mount the nose support and torque the fasteners 15-17 ft-lbs.
118. Reinstall the EVAP tube on the EVAP solenoid at the front of the supercharger manifold.
Route the tube under the supercharger nose and
along the inside of the left fuel rail to the EVAP
connection between the cylinder head and the
firewall
119. Install the Radix information sticker on the
black plastic radiator cover below the GM factorywarning sticker.
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120. Install alternator on the stock bracket and
torque the fasteners to 40 ft-lb.
121. Re-attach the battery cable to the alternator
terminal.
122. Using belt routing decal, install belt. Please
double check your routing before moving to the
next step.
123. Using a screwdriver, remove the four
screws that secure the top cover to the base of
the air box assembly.
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124. Remove and discard the stock paper air
filter.
125. Remove the stock air box gasket and replace it with the new gasket supplied with the
K&N air filter.
126. Install K&N air filter and re-assemble the air
box assembly. Reinstall the completed unit on
the vehicle.
127. Here is the air tube and it’s components.
Bellows
Clamps
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Air Tube
Coupler
Brass Barbs
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2003-2006 Trucks & 2500 SUV's Supercharger Installation Instructions
Grease
magnacharger.com
128. Assemble the bellows and coupler to the
air tube. Note: The position of the clamp screws.
The screws must be facing up so that you can
install the assembly on the vehicle.
129. Install the brass barb into the threaded port
in the bottom of the air tube with a 14mm wrench.
Do not over tighten!
130. Using some of the O-ring grease supplied,
apply a light coating of grease on the inside of
the coupler.
131. Push the bellows end of the air tube assembly on to the air box first, and then install the
remaining end with the coupler on to the throttle
body. Tighten all clamp screws securely.
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132. Attach the PCV hose from the right (passenger) side valve cover to the brass barb on the
bottom of the air tube. Connect the PCV hose
from step 89 to the remaining barb next to the
power brake hose connection on the back of the
inlet manifold. Connect the power brake hose to
the control valve shown in step 62.
133. Remove the driver side fender to firewall
brace with a 12mm socket wrench, to gain access to the fuse relay panel.
134. Firmly grasp the relay centers cover and lift
off.
135. Pull back on the two tabs holding the relay
centers main cover off.
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136. Lift the cover off and set aside for modification.
137. Position the intercooler reservoir bracket
on the engine side face of the main cover. Align
the cut-away of the cover with the edge of the
bracket
Bracket
Align
edges
138. Mark the location of the three mounting
studs on the cover and then drill 5/16” holes in
these locations.
139. Place the reservoir bracket in location on
the holes. Secure the bracket on the inside of the
cover with the three nuts supplied. Tighten the
nuts with a 10mm socket wrench.
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140. Here is the intercooler reservoir/pump assembly. Note: The hose and electrical connections.
Reservoir Inlet
Electrical Connection
Pump Outlet
141. Install the reservoir/pump assembly on the
two reservoir bracket studs with the supplied
nuts. Tighten the nuts securely.
142. Install the intercooler pump harness starting
at the relay center. Cover the red and black wires
that lead to the intercooler coolant pump connector with the split loom supplied. Tuck the relay
under the factory GM wiring so that the relay
center cover base will cover it. Route the harness with the coolant pump connector down and
forward along the factory GM harness.
143. In the wiring below the fuse/relay center,
locate the gray fuel pump wire that goes from the
relay center down the frame towards the rear of
the vehicle. Use a 12 volt automotive test light or
voltmeter to check that you have the correct wire.
With the battery temporarily connected, switch
the ignition on and your test light should glow for
about 3 seconds and then go out when you have
located the correct wire. Install a T-tap connector
onto the gray fuel pump wire.
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144. Connect the yellow wire from the relay into
the T-tap connector installed in the last step.
145. Using a 13mm socket wrench remove the
positive terminal nut from the lug. (Caution make sure the battery is disconnected.)
146. Install the positive terminal from the relay to
the positive lug as shown. (This is the wire with
the fuse holder in it.)
147. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove the
nut from the body ground stud on the firewall as
shown.
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Body ground stud
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148. Locate the single black ground wire from
the relay, strip the insulation back 1/4” from the
end and then firmly crimp the ring terminal on the
end. Install the black wire with its ring terminal on
the body ground stud from the previous step and
secure it firmly with the original nut.
149. Install the intercooler electrical connector
into the bottom of the coolant pump. Secure the
wiring as necessary with the Ty-wrap straps supplied.
150. This step is for 2003 vehicles only, 2004-05
vehicles skip to step 151. Install the wiring harness for the fuel pump in the same location as
you did for the intercooler pump wiring harness.
Attach the extra yellow wire from the intercooler
pump relay onto the male spade terminal marked
“85” on the bottom of the fuel pump relay. Attach the ring connector from the fused power wire
in the same location as you did for the intercooler
pump relay in step 146. Attach the black ground
wire ring connector in the same location as you
did in step 148. Route the black and red split
loom covered wires down and along the inside of
the left frame rail to the fuel filter location.
151. Reinstall the relay center cover complete
with the reservoir and pump installed. (Be careful
not to pinch any wires.)
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152. Re-install the fuse/relay cover by aligning it
up and pushing down on it.
153. Re-install fender to firewall brace.
154. Here is the intercooler and it’s mounting
components.
155. Install two of the round-headed carriage
bolts supplied into both channels on the sides of
the heat exchanger. The square portion of the
bolt shaft must be aligned with the side of the
channel.
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156. Align the bolts with the holes in the bracket.
157. Torque the mounting nuts to 18 ft-lbs.
158. Assemble the upper mounting mounting
clamp with its plastic strip. Peel the backing tape
off the plastic strip and apply the strip supplied to
the inside of the jaws on the mounting clamp.
159. Remove the seven push-lock fasteners that
secure the black plastic radiator cover. Do this
by prying up on the center of the fastener with a
small straight blade screwdriver.
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160. Remove the seven fasteners completely.
161. Remove the radiator cover.
162. Remove the grille assembly by first removing the upper retaining bolt with a 10mm socket
wrench.
163. Pull out on the grille assembly at each of its
six corners to release the snap-in fasteners.
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164. Remove the grille assembly.
165. Remove the stock cross member bolts from
the radiator brace bolt at each end with a 13mm
socket wrench.
166. Replace the cross member bolts with the
rubber mounts supplied. Tighten the mounts
securely by hand only.
167. Install the heat exchanger onto the studs
of the rubber mounts and secure it with the nuts
supplied and a 10mm socket wrench.
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168. Remove the transmission cooler bolt located below and to the right of the hood latch with
a 10mm socket wrench. For vehicles without a
transmission cooler, a bolt and nut are supplied.
Remove this bolt
169. Install the upper mounting clamp onto the
heat exchanger core using the bolt removed in
the previous step. Tighten the bolt securely.
170. Here is the heat exchanger mounted. Note:
The hose barbs are on the right side
171. Starting at the intercooler barb on the left
side of the supercharger, attach one end of the
length of the 5/8” hose with a #10 clamp. Run
the hose forward and down beside the left side of
the radiator.
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172. In the rubber weather shield beside the radiator, make a slot or hole for the hoses from the
intercooler to pass.
173. Continue the hose to the upper barb on the
top of the heat exchanger. At this point cut the
hose and push it on the barb. Secure it with a
#10 clamp.
174. From the remaining length of hose, attach
one end to the lower barb of the heat exchanger.
Route the hose through the slot in the weather
shield and on to the outlet barb out the intercooler
pump. Cut the hose and secure both ends with
#10 clamps.
175. From the remaining length of hose, connect
one end to the inlet barb of the intercooler reservoir with a #10 clamp.
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176. Cut the remaining end of the hose to length
and connect it to the “T” connection on the supercharger with a #10 clamp. Reinstall the grille
assembly by snapping the six corners back in
place and installing the upper retaining bolt with
a 10mm socket wrench. Install the radiator cover
by inserting the seven push-lock fasteners back
in their holes and pressing the center of the pushlock fasteners down to secure them.
177. The following steps are for 2003 vehicles
only, 2004-on skip to step 187. Locate your
vehicles fuel filter, usually located on the inside of
the driver side frame rail. At this time we recommend that you replace the fuel filter.
178. Using 5/8” and 13/16” wrenches, disconnect
fuel line from filter. Use rags to soak up and fuel.
(Be sure to dispose of rags properly.) Do not lose
small o-ring on fitting.
179. Using small amount of grease, lubricate
O-ring threads of OE fitting. Carefully bend tube
to run parallel to frame rail and direct into pump
discharge fitting.
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180. Using 21/64” drill bit, carefully drill through
bottom of frame rail. Clean up chips, de-burr the
hole and fasten pump with supplied hardware.
181. While supporting the pump using back-up
7/8” wrench, tighten fuel line fittings. (Make sure
adapter does not get loosened.)
182. Lubricate O-rings and threads of u-bend
adapter and install on discharge side of fuel filter.
Position as in photo.
183. Wrap inlet hose & fitting around to filter
adapter, and “click” into place.
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184. Use tie wraps supplied in kit to fasten hose
& wires out of harms way, and to allow smooth
bends.
185. Cut the pump wiring loom installed earlier
in step 170 so that the black and red wires will
reach the new pump.
186. The fuel pump wiring must be hooked up
correctly to work, the red Positive wire goes to
the “+” post on the pump and the black negative
wire goes to the “-” post on the pump. (Double
check your installation before moving on.) *Note:
Do not over-tighten the nuts and break the studs.
187. Locate MAF cable, pull back flex loom approximately 8 inches. Separate the tan & black
wires from this harness.
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188. Cut the tan & black wires approximately 1”
from the MAF connector.
189. Using the new IAT harness and crimp/shrink
connectors supplied, connect either white wire
of the new harness to the tan wire and the black
wire that run to the vehicles computer. The wires
to the MAF will no longer be used. Strip about
1/4” of insulation from the ends of the black and
tan wires to the computer and the IAT harness,
then crimp the connectors on. Using a heat gun
or blow dryer set on HIGH; shrink the insulation
on the connectors so that it contracts around the
wires completely. You must shrink the insulation,
as crimping the connectors alone is not enough
to secure them!
190. Plug the IAT harness into the IAT sensor
located under the supercharger nose.
190. Refill radiator and intercooler system with a
50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled or de-ionized water only. Let run for 5-10 minutes. Bleed
system at “T” and at reservoir. Check system
periodically for fluid level.
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WARNING! Before downloading the new software into your vehicles compute (PCM), make sure to
turn off all power consuming accessories: heater, A/C , radio, dome light, etc. Turn off the daytime
running rights by applying the emergency brake or by turning the head lamp switch counter-clockwise. Follow the steps below to remove all recommended fuses and any additional power fuses from
all aftermarket add-on accessories i.e.: stereo amplifiers, DVD players, TV monitors, MP3 players and
anti-theft equipment. Keep all doors closed during programming. Never remove the programming
cable during programming and always follow the instructions on the handheld unit display. Failure of
any of the above instructions can cause a “NO RESPONSE” from the PCM or permanent damage to
the vehicle PCM.
191. Ensure vehicle is off and the keys are out of
the ignition. Locate the interior fuse panel inside
the driver door as shown.
192. Remove the 10 AMP “SEO ACCY” fuse in
the top middle section of the fuse box as shown.
193. Remove the cover from the “Exterior Fuse
Panel” located under the hood on the drivers (left)
side. Remove the six fuses labeled SEO B1,
SEO IGN, INFO, SEO B2, RADIO and RADIO
AMP. Download the Micro tuner following the
instructions that came with the Micro tuner.
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194. Vehicle Programing Instructions For the Micro Tuner:
IMPORTANT! To ensure trouble-free programming of your vehicle’s computer:
* Make sure the vehicle’s battery is sufficiently charged.
* Turn off all accessories & close doors to prevent unnecessary drain on the battery.
* Do not attempt to program your vehicle while a battery charger is connected.
* Improper battery voltage will result in failure of the programming process.
* Do not disconnect the cable or turn off the ignition during programming.
* Reconnect battery ground (-) cable.
A.
Connect the supplied cable to the 9-pin
connector at the top of the handheld unit. Use
the thumbscrews to secure the cable to connector.
B.
Connect the other end to your ALDL connector located under the dash near the steering
column. Make sure this connection is seated all
the way in and that it is secure. You do not want
this cable coming out of the connector during
programming.
C.
Turn the ignition key to the on or run position but do not start the vehicle.
D.
To begin programming your vehicle, you
must press the YES button.
E.
You only need to press the YES button
once to start the programming cycle. The programming process only takes about a minute.
F.
The hand held unit will inform you that the
programming process has completed and to turn
the ignition off and disconnect the cable. Only at
this time should the ignition be turned off and the
cable removed.
*DO NOT DISTURB THE CABLE OR TURN
THE IGNITION OFF DURING THIS TIME! IF
THE PROGRAMMING IS DISRUPTED YOUR
COMPUTER WILL NOT START OR RUN YOUR
VEHICLE!
In the event that the vehicle needs to be returned to its original calibration, follow the directions as
described above. The handheld unit will prompt you that you have already modified the vehicle’s
computer. Select YES to return you vehicle’s computer back to the stock calibration. Wait for the
handheld to finish, then disconnect cable as described above.
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195. Once programing is completed, ensure the
vehicle is off and the keys are out of the ignition.
Install the fuses back into their correct locations
and reinstall the covers.
196. Start the vehicle for 5 seconds and shut off, once again check for fuel leaks and fan-supercharger belt alignment. Check radiator and intercooler reservoir.
197. Test drive vehicle for the first few miles under normal driving conditions, listen for any noises,
vibrations, engine missfire or anything that does not seem normal. The supercharger does have a
slight whining noise under boost conditions, which is normal. Check & bleed intercooler reservoir as
needed.
198. After the initial test drive gradually work the vehicle to wide open throttle runs, listen for any
engine detonation (Pinging). If engine detonation is present let up on the throttle immediately. Most
detonation causes are low octane gasoline still in the tank. If you have questions about your vehicles
performance, please check with your installation facility or call Magna Charger at (805) 289-0044,
Monday through Friday, 8am to 5:00pm.
Ventura, CA (November 21, 2002) Magna Charger, manufacturer of superchargers and supercharger systems for foreign and domestic vehicles, was presented the prestigious award at the
annual Specialty Equipment Market Association
Show (SEMA) in Las Vegas, Nevada.
Sponsored by General Motors Corporation, the
2002 SEMA Design Award for the “Most Innovative Product” was awarded to Magna Charger
and recognized by the all-star team of judges for
their outstanding and innovative design achievement. The criteria used by the judges included
innovation, technical achievement, quality and
workmanship.
The award was presented for the Radix® Intercooled supercharger system, designed for the
Chevrolet, GMC and Cadillac, 4.8L, 5.3L and
6.0L General Motors Trucks and SUV’s including
the new H2.
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Please enjoy your “Magna Charged”
performance responsibly.
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