Solid Installation

Solid Installation
Floors
Allwood Floors
Solid Floors
For Nail/Staple or Glue-Down Installations
INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY
Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of nature and therefore, not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in
accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may
be of a manufacturing or natural type
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The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring
should be done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and quality before installing
it. If material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.
Prior to installation of any hardwood-flooring product, the installer must determine that the job-site
environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards and
recommendations of the construction and materials industries. These instructions recommend that the
construction and subfloor be dry, stiff and flat. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure
resulting from or associated with sub-surface or job-site environment deficiencies.
Prior to installation, the installer/owner has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and
factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with defects,
whatever the cause.
Use of stain, filler or putty stick for defect correction during installation should be accepted as normal
procedure.
When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to the actual square footage needed for cutting and grading
allowance.
Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not
use the piece.
TOOLS & ACCESSORIES NEEDED
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Broom
Tape Measure
Hand saw
Hammer
Table saw, jig saw, or circular saw
Chalk line & chalk
Recommended Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both)
Additional Tools & Accessories Needed for Staple-Down Installations
NOTE: It is extremely important to use the proper adapters as well as staples or cleats. Improper fasteners,
machines and air pressure can cause severe damage. The manufacturer of this flooring product is not responsible
for damage caused by use of improper tools or misuse.
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Pneumatic Brad-Nailer with 2" brads OR Drill with 1/16" drill bit 4-6d screw-shank nails & nail set Nail set
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Duct tape
Vapor barrier
Stapling machine
2" (minimum) glue coated staples
Additional Tools & Accessories Needed for Staple-Down Installations
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Recommended Adhesive
Adhesive Cleaner
Trowel
PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
Job Site Inspection
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The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry,
framing members, drywall, paint and other "wet" work should be thoroughly dry.
The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on the base
molding. When possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete.
Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage directing water away from the building. All
gutters and downspouts should be in place.
Allwood Floors can only be installed on or above grade level. Do not install in full bathrooms.
Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.
Crawl space must be a minimum of 24" (600 mm) from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover
of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped.
The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5% of the crawl space square
footage. These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation.
Subfloor must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate testing method.
Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational. The installation site
should have a consistent room temperature of 60-75-degree F and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior,
during and until occupied, to allow for proper acclimation.
STORAGE AND HANDLING
Allwood Floors should be stored in the environment in which they are expected to perform. Deliver the materials to
an environmentally controlled site. Materials should be allowed to acclimate for as long as necessary to meet
minimum installation requirements for moisture content. Handle and unload with care. Store in a dry place being
sure to provide at least a four-inch air space under cartons, which are stored upon "on-grade" concrete floors.
Flooring should not be delivered until the building has been closed in with windows and doors in place and until
cement work, plastering and all other "wet" work is completed and dry. Concrete should be at least 60 days old. Air
conditioning/heating systems should be in place and in operation at least 14 days prior, during and after installation
of the flooring.
INSTALLATION APPLICATIONS
NOTE: MINOR SQUEAKING OF MECHANICALLY FASTENED FLOORS IS NOT ABNORMAL DUE TO
STRUCTURAL MOVEMENT CAUSED BY CHANGES IN ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS. FOLLOWING
THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN MINIMIZE THESE FACTORS, BUT OFFER NO GUARANTEE THAT THE FLOOR
WILL NOT SQUEAK.
General Information for Stapled Applications
Improper pressure settings and failure to use proper adapters can cause severe damage to the flooring. The
correct fastening machine and air pressure setting will properly set the staple in the nail pocket.
Low air pressures may fail to properly set the staple and damage adjoining boards. Air pressures set too high may
cause damage to the tongue, preventing installation of adjoining boards and cause blisters on the face of the
flooring. Make certain that the compressor has a regulator in-line with the air hose for proper adjustment. Set
pressure at 70 PSI to begin with and adjust until proper staple setting occurs. USE A STAPLER DESIGNED FOR
THE THICKNESS OF THE PRODUCT BEING INSTALLED such as the Stanley-Bostitch S32SXBHF or others
listed above. Any water damaged, swollen or delaminated subflooring materials will not hold staples and must be
repaired or replaced.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
SUBFLOORS MUST BE:
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CLEAN - Scrape, broom clean, and smooth. Free of wax, paint, oil or debris.
LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16" in 10' and/or 1/8" in 6'. Sand high areas or joints. Low spots can be flattened
using shims or layers of builders felt between the wood and the subfloor during installation.
STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak. Replace any water-damaged,
swollen or delaminated subflooring or underlayments, as they are unable to properly hold fasteners.
Avoid subfloor with excessive vertical movement unless they have been properly stiffened prior to the
installation of the wood flooring.
DRY - Check moisture content of subfloor. Moisture content of wood subfloor must not exceed 13% on a
wood moisture meter, or read more than a 4% difference (3% for plank) than moisture level of product
being installed.
RECOMMENDED SUBFLOOR SURFACES
STAPLE-DOWN OR GLUE-DOWN:
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PREFERRED:
3/4" (19 mm) CDX grade plywood
3/4" (23/32") OSB PS2 rated underlayment
MINIMUM: 5/8" CDX grade plywood
Existing solid wood flooring
Vinyl, resilient tile, cork flooring
3/4" chip, waferboard, particleboard
GLUE-DOWN ONLY:
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Concrete slabs
Acoustic concrete
Ceramic, terrazzo, slate and marble
Metal
Cork (Acoustic)
SUBFLOOR TYPES:
Note: Do Not Install Allwood Solid Floors Over Radiant Heated Subfloors
CONCRETE SLABS
Glue-Down
Floors can be glued directly to concrete using recommended adhesive. Do not use a concrete sealer nor install
over one. Surface preparation using mechanical methods such as sanding or scouring with open coat paper or a
titanium disk is preferred. The concrete must be of high compressive strength. All concrete subfloors should be
tested for moisture content. Visual checks are not reliable. Acceptable test methods for subfloor moisture content
include:
NOTE: Test several areas, especially near exterior walls and walls containing plumbing.
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A 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol solution. Chip the concrete at least 1/4" deep (do not apply
directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area. If any color
change occurs, further testing is required.
Calcium Chloride test. The maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 3 lbs./1000 square feet with this
test.
A "DRY" SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE WET AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR. THESE
TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB. ALL CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 6 MIL
POLY FILM MOISTURE BARRIER BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE CONCRETE.
Moisture Barrier System: If moisture is present, inexpensive sheet vinyl or "slip-sheet" (PVC) may be installed. Use
a premium grade, alkaline resistant adhesive and a full spread application system to properly bond the vinyl to the
subfloor. Follow the sheet vinyl manufacturer instructions for installation procedures. A patch test may be required
as an adhesion test. Install several small areas (3' x 3') and allow the vinyl to set for 72 hours. Remove the vinyl; if
the backing remains attached to the concrete, the subfloor should be acceptable for sheet vinyl installation. If you
have any questions regarding installation or the handling of moisture problems, please contact the
distributor/retailer from whom the goods were purchased.
ACOUSTIC CONCRETE
Glue-Down Only
Acoustic concrete normally contains large quantities of gypsum that may inhibit the adhesive's capability to
properly bond. Acoustic concrete must be primed with the concrete manufacturers recommended primer/surface
hardener. The concrete must have a minimum compressive strength of 2500 PSI.
WOOD/CONCRETE SUBFLOOR SYSTEMS
Bonded: Install a suitable vapor barrier followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum thickness of 3/4". Allow 1/2"
expansion space around all vertical objects and 1/8" between all flooring panels. The panel must be properly
attached to the subfloor using a minimum of one fastener per square foot and more if necessary. Use pneumatic or
powder actuated fasteners. Do not hand nail the subfloor with concrete nails. Install a vapor barrier with joints
lapped 6" and begin installation of flooring using 1 1/2" fasteners.
Floating: Install a suitable vapor barrier followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum of 3/8". Allow 1/2"
expansion space around all vertical objects and 1/8" between all flooring panels. Install a second layer of 3/8"
plywood at a right angle to the previous panels, offsetting the joints 2'. Staple together with staples that will not
penetrate the first layer of subfloor with a crown width of 3/8" or more. Install a vapor barrier with joints lapped 6"
and begin installation of flooring.
WOOD SUBFLOORS & WOOD STRUCTURAL PANEL SUBFLOORS
Plywood: Must be APA CDX grade or better.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Must be PS2 rated installed sealed side down.
Particleboard: Must be a minimum 40-LB density, stamped underlayment grade and 3/4" thick.
Do Not install over pressed wood or fiber board.
Staple-Down or Glue-Down
Make sure existing floor or subfloor is dry and well nailed or screwed down every 6" along each joist to avoid
squeaking or popping before the floor is installed. Measure moisture content of both subfloor and wood flooring to
determine proper moisture content with a reliable wood moisture meter. The wood subfloor must not exceed 13%
moisture content as measured with a reliable wood moisture meter. The difference between the moisture content
of the wood subfloor and the wood flooring must not exceed 4%.
Optimum performance of hardwood floor covering products occurs when there is no horizontal or vertical
movement of the subfloor. The MINIMUM subfloor recommendations described above are for 16" O/C joist
spacing. The thicker, PREFERRED subfloor recommendations described above will allow 19.2" joist spacing if the
joist manufacturer's recommended span is not exceeded. Spacing in excess of 19.2" O/C may not offer optimum
results. Install flooring perpendicular to the floor joists when possible. Installations should not be made parallel to
the floor joists or on joist spacing that exceeds 19.2" O/C unless the subfloor has been properly stiffened.
Stiffening may require the addition of a second layer of subflooring material to bring the overall thickness to at least
1 1/8".
All underlayment panels should be spaced 1/8" apart to insure adequate expansion space. This can be achieved
by using a circular saw set at the depth of the underlayment and cutting around the perimeter of the panel. T&G
panels normally have built in expansion; DO NOT cut around the perimeter of T&G panels. Do not install over
existing glue-down wood floors. Do not install over nailed floors that exceed 3 1/4" in width. Wide width floors must
be overlaid with plywood. When installing over existing wood floors parallel with the flooring, it may be necessary
to install an additional 1/4" layer of plywood to stabilize the flooring or install the wood floor at right angles.
Applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries must be met or exceeded.
RESILIENT TILE, RESILIENT SHEET VINYL & CORK FLOORING
Staple-Down
Make sure the vinyl or tile is full spread adhesive and well bonded to the subfloor. Do not install over more than
one layer, which does not exceed 1/8" in thickness over suitable subfloor. If vinyl or tiles are loose, crumbled, or in
poor condition, install an underlayment directly over the sheet vinyl (linoleum) or vinyl tiles. CAUTION: Some older
type tiles become brittle with age. Ascertain that the staple will penetrate these materials and that breakage does
not occur. Remove if necessary.
Glue-Down
If the tiles or sheet goods are well bonded, clean the surface thoroughly with a good quality household detergent.
De-gloss flooring as necessary to create a good adhesive bond using an abrasive pad. If vinyl appears to have a
coating of wax or other maintenance materials, it must be removed with the appropriate floor stripper. Allow ample
drying time. (Note: Do not sand any resilient products for they may contain asbestos fibers, which may be harmful.)
Do not install over floors that exceed two layers. Cork floors must have all sealers and surface treatments removed
before installation begins.
CORK (ACOUSTIC)
Glue-Down Only
Allwood flooring can be glued directly over full-spread, permanently bonded acoustic cork. The cork should have a
density of no less than 11.4 lb./cubic foot and no more than 13 lb./cubic foot. The cork, in general, should be pure
cork combined with a polyurethane binder. Cork thickness is to be no more than 1/4" (6 mm). Install cork in
accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
CERAMIC, TERRAZZO, SLATE & MARBLE
Glue-Down Only
All grout joints and broken corners that exceed 3/16" must be filled with a cementitous leveling compound mixed
with Latex additive. The surface should be cleaned and abraded to create a good bonding surface for the
adhesive. Loose tiles must be re-adhered to the subfloor or filled as above. Remove all sealers and surface
treatments.
DOORWAY AND WALL PREPARATION
Undercut door casings. Remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be
replaced after installation. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts.
GENERAL INSTALLATION TIPS
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Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least 6", when possible, in adjacent rows. This will help ensure a
more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
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Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should
be installed perpendicular to the flooring joists unless subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor
sagging. Find appropriate subfloor from "Subfloor Type" section in this instruction manual.
Large spans in areas of high humidity may require the addition of internal or field expansion. This can be
accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10-20 rows inserted above the tongue and
removed after several adjoining rows have been stapled or glued. Installation parallel to the longest wall
is recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should be installed perpendicular to the
flooring joists unless subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor sagging. Find appropriate subfloor
from "Subfloor Type" section in this instruction manual.
STEP 1: ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT: ALL INSTALLATIONS
In at least two places, measure out equal distance from the starting wall and 12" - 18" from the corners and 3 1/8"
from the wall. Mark these points and snap a chalk line.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE VAPOR BARRIER: STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATIONs
CAUTION: This Vapor barrier Moisture Guard may be slippery and unstable when walked on prior to the
installation of the flooring. Use extreme care during installation.
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Roll out the materials in the same direction as the flooring will be installed allowing the vapor barrier to
extend 3"- 4" up the walls.
Position the vapor barrier so that the chalk lines can be seen through these materials.
Staple or tape at the corners to hold the vapor barrier in position.
Overlap vapor barrier 6" at all joints and apply duct tape to seal the seams. The first piece of Vapor barrier will be
secured when the first row of flooring is installed.
STEP 3: INSTALLING FIRST ROWS: STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATION
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Roll out the materials in the same direction as the flooring will be installed allowing the Vapor barrier to
extend 3"- 4" up the walls.
Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows.
Align tongue of first row on chalk line. The groove should be facing the starting wall.
Use a pneumatic brad nailer to face-nail the groove side 1/2"from the edge at 6" intervals and 1" - 2" from
each end then at a 45-degree angle down through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue OR pre-drill
the nail holes 1/2" from back (groove) edge, 1 - 2" from each end, and at 6" intervals. Pre-drill at the
same intervals at a 45-degree angle down through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue. Face-nail the
groove side where pre-drilled. When complete, blind-nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue of the
first row. Fasten using 4 or 6d nails. Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove. Avoid
bruising the wood by using a nail set to countersink the nails. Continue blind nailing using this method
with following rows until stapler can be used.
End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 6" to ensure a more favorable overall appearance.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE FLOOR: STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATION
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Using on of the approved staple guns, set the compressor as previously recommended.
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Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface damage, air pressure setting, tongue damage,
etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins. Once proper
adjustments have been made, remove and destroy the board.
Begin installation with several rows at a time, fastening each board with at least two fasteners, 3 - 4"
apart and 1 - 2" from the ends (to avoid splitting). Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before
fastening.
End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 6" when possible to ensure a more favorable overall
appearance. Install the floor from several cartons at the same time to get a more favorable overall
appearance.
The last 1 - 2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler
or brad nailer. Brad-nail or pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following the nailing pattern used for
the first row.
Rip final row to fit and face-nail. If the final row is less than 1" in width, it should first be edge-glued to the
previous UNINSTALLED row and the two joined units should be face-nailed as one.
STEP 3: SPREAD THE ADHESIVE: GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
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Use the recommended trowel to get required spread rate and ridging height.
Use recommended urethane adhesive.
The Equalizer adhesive should not be applied if subfloor or room temperature is below 65-degree F (20degree C).
Spread sufficient amounts of the adhesive with a 3/16" x 1/4" x 1/2" x 5/16" trowel in an area that can be
covered in 60 minutes. WORKING TIME WILL VARY DEPENDING ON JOB SITE CONDITIONS.
Hold trowel at a minimum 45 - degree angle firmly against the subfloor to obtain a 50-55 sq. ft. per gallon
spread rate. The trowel will leave ridges of adhesive and very little adhesive between the ridges. The
chalk line should remain visible through the adhesive ridges.
NOTE: Clean adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently. Do not use blue tape before adhesive is
removed. Use clean towel, changed frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE FLOOR: GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
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Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. The first row should be installed with
the edge of the groove lined up on the chalk line. The tongue should be facing the starting wall. The first
row must be aligned and seated in the adhesive, as all additional rows will be pushed back to this original
row.
When installing pieces, engage the end-joint first as close to side (long) tongue and groove as possible
and then slide together tightly to engage side (long) joint tongue and groove. To avoid adhesive bleedthrough and memory pullback, avoid sliding pieces through the adhesive as much as possible when
placing them in position.
Check for a tight fit between all edges and ends of each plank. End-joints of adjacent rows should be
staggered 6" when possible to ensure a more favorable overall appearance.
If necessary, nail a sacrificial row with 2" nails on the dry side of your chalk line to help hold the first row
in place.
It may be necessary to align product with a cut-off piece of scrap.
To eliminate minor shifting or gapping of product during installation, use 3M 2090 Blue Mask Tape to hold
the planks together. All recommended urethane adhesive should be cleaned from the surface BEFORE
applying tape. Cured adhesive is VERY difficult to remove. After installation is complete, remove all the
3M 2090 Blue Mask Tape from surface of newly installed flooring. Do not let tape remain on flooring
longer than 24 hours. Avoid use of masking tape, which leaves an adhesive residue.
Be sure not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area.
If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper
bonding to the subfloor. Occasionally lift a board and check for adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive
transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.
For additional application instructions, follow the recommendations on the adhesive container. When not
in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent thickening. Thickening will cause difficulty in
spreading the adhesive. Proper ventilation within the room must be provided.
If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
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Complete the installation using this same technique for the remainder of the floor, ripping the final boards
to fit and allowing 3/4" expansion space.
INSTALLERS - ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF THE FOLLOWING
SEASONS: HEATING AND NON-HEATING
Recognizing that wood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your building,
care should be taken to control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure
that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, we have provided our recommendations below.
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Heating Season (Dry) - A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due
to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet) - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air
conditioner, dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months.
Avoid excessive exposure to water from tracking during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in
any way the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.
FLOOR REPAIR
Minor damage can be repaired with a touch-up kit or filler. Major damage will require board replacement, which
can be done by a professional floor installer.
ALL INSTALLATIONS
STEP 5: COMPLETING THE JOB
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Clean floor with the Adhesive Cleaner. Complete clean up with a thorough cleaning using no-wax cleaner.
Re-install any transition pieces that may be needed, such as Reducer Strips, T-moldings, or Thresholds.
These products are available pre-finished to blend with your flooring.
Re-install all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor.
Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code
number of the flooring they purchased.
Do not cover the floor while the floor is still moveable. Do not cover with a non-breathable material such
as plastic.
To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy appliances and furniture on the floor. Use plywood,
hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary
MOLDINGS
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Reducer Strip: a teardrop shaped molding. Used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a
transition between Parquet and adjacent floor coverings that are less thick. Fasten down with adhesive or
double-faced tape.
Threshold: a molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or
existing thresholds to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference.
Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or nails through the heel. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
Always leave expansion beneath the undercut.
Stair Nosing: a molding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair
steps. Fasten down firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
Quarter Round: a molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair
steps. Predrill and nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
Combination Base and Shoe: a molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space
between the floor and the wall. Predrill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
T-Molding: a molding used as a transition piece from one flooring to another or to gain expansion spaces.
Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Leave expansion beneath the undercut on both sides.
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