Whole House Energy Checklist
50 Steps to Energy Efficiency in the Home
Buildings for the
21st Century
Buildings that are more
energy efficient, comfortable,
and affordable… that’s the
goal of DOE’s Building
Technologies Program.
To accelerate the development
and wide application of energy
efficiency measures, the
Building Technologies Program:
• Conducts R&D on technologies
and concepts for energy
efficiency, working closely with
the building industry and with
manufacturers of materials,
equipment, and appliances
• Promotes energy/money
saving opportunities to both
builders and buyers of homes
and commercial buildings
• Works with state and local
regulatory groups to improve
building codes, appliance
standards, and guidelines for
efficient energy use
Although energy efficiency requires careful
planning and attention to details throughout the
design and construction process, the benefits
for building professionals and homeowners are
significant. For the homeowner or occupant,
benefits include
Reduced utility and maintenance costs
Increased comfort
Reduced noise
A healthier and safer indoor environment
Improved building durability
The home designer, builder, and contractors
benefit from greater customer satisfaction and
fewer call-backs, resulting from improved
comfort, increased home durability, and reduced
operating costs, maintenance costs, and noise.
They also benefit from increased compliance
with building, fire, and energy codes and
recognition as professionals dedicated to quality.
Many state and local governments have
mandatory energy codes that set minimum
standards, and most builders recognize that
today’s homes have tighter envelopes, increased
insulation levels, and higher-efficiency
mechanical systems and appliances. Yet many
building professionals do not tap the full energysaving potential that these improvements have
to offer because they are approached piecemeal
and without consistency and, in many cases, are
not implemented correctly.
Successful design and construction
professionals follow a whole-house systems
approach to improve the energy efficiency of the
homes they build and realize the full benefits of
various energy-saving measures. A systems
approach considers the interaction between the
site, building envelope, mechanical systems,
occupants, and other factors and recognizes that
features of one component in the house can
greatly affect other components.
The design and construction checklist provided
in this fact sheet was developed to help housing
designers and builders take the first steps toward
a whole-house design approach and the correct
implementation of energy-efficient construction
practices. The checklist presents simple and clear
guidance on energy improvements that can be
readily addressed now by most housing
providers. The checklist purposely focuses on
wood-frame construction and limits itself to
mainstream technologies. Details will vary
according to climate, site, house design,
materials selection, and other factors.
The letters in parentheses next to each checklist
item indicate individual DOE fact sheets relating
to each topic. See the key on page 6 to identify
each topic-specific fact sheet.
1. Plan ahead to optimize the home’s envelope and mechanical systems.
Consider from the start of the design the framing and insulation,
windows, air leakage control, heating and cooling equipment,
ductwork, ventilation systems, water heating equipment and fixtures,
lighting, and appliances. (EEP)
2. Design with the sun in mind to utilize passive heating, reduce cooling
loads, and use daylight to provide natural lighting. (PSD)
A. Orient the house with the long axis running east/west.
B. Place and size windows according to the climate zone. (ELS)
C. Integrate landscaping with overhangs to provide needed window
D. Add thermal mass in the walls or floors for heat storage.
E. Consider use of natural ventilation for cooling.
3. Use advanced framing techniques to reduce the amount of lumber used
and increase insulation coverage. (AWF, WI)
A. Design homes on 2-foot modules.
B. Space wall studs, floor joists, and roof rafters 24 inches on-center.
C. Use single top plates in conjunction with in-line framing designs.
D. Align windows and doors with existing studs.
4. Plan locations for ductwork, framing, plumbing, and electrical wiring
simultaneously to avoid conflicts between systems. (AWF, CI, DD)
Use caulk, spray foam, sheet goods (e.g., rigid board insulation,
plywood, drywall, polyethylene sheeting, housewrap) and other
materials as detailed in the following guidelines.
5. Seal before drywall is installed. (AS)
A. Seal between the bottom plate of exterior walls and the subfloor
during construction using a double bead of caulk or durable gasket
(sill seal). (WI)
B. Seal the inside edge of the bottom plate of exterior walls to the
subfloor using caulk after the frame walls are erected. (WI)
C. Seal the band joist of a multi-story home or a home with a
conditioned basement using caulk, spray foam, or gaskets. Seal
between the band joist and the top plate or sill plate, and between
the band joist and subfloor. (WI)
D. For bathtubs on an exterior wall, insulate the exterior wall and then
airseal behind the tub before the tub is installed, using sheet goods
or plastic sheeting stapled and caulked to the wood framing. (WI)
E. Seal the bathtub drain and water line penetrations through the floor
after the tub is installed and the plumbing is connected, but before
any floor insulation is installed. Use rigid board insulation,
plywood, or other sheet goods with caulk or spray foam. (CI)
F. Seal dropped ceilings and soffits, duct and flue chases, and open
partition walls before any attic insulation is installed, using rigid
board insulation, plywood, or other sheet goods with caulk or
spray foam. Alternatively, construct dropped ceilings and soffits
after the entire ceiling is drywalled and taped to avoid this type of
attic bypass. (CA)
G. Seal all electrical wire; plumbing; and heating, ventilation, and airconditioning penetrations (at the top and bottom plates; through
the ceilings, floors, and exterior walls; and at other framing
locations) between conditioned and unconditioned spaces using
caulk or spray foam. (CA, CI, WI)
H. Seal the wiring and knockouts in all electrical boxes with caulk.
I. Seal outdoor-mounted electrical boxes to the exterior sheathing.
6. Seal during drywall installation. (AS)
A. Seal the drywall to the top and bottom plate using construction
adhesive, caulk, or gaskets.
B. Seal the drywall to the rough openings of windows and doors
using construction adhesive, caulk, or gaskets.
7. Seal after drywall is installed. (AS)
A. Seal electrical boxes (e.g., switches, outlet receptacles), light fixture
boxes, circuit breaker boxes, and medicine cabinets to the drywall
using caulk or foam. (CA, WI)
B. Seal plumbing or electrical wiring penetrations through the drywall
(e.g., the electrical wire behind the kitchen range hood, refrigerator
water supply) using caulk or foam.
C. Seal between a masonry chimney and the attic framing using sheet
metal or other noncombustible sheet goods and high-temperature
(450°F), fire-rated caulk.
D. If a whole-house fan is installed, seal gaps around the whole-house
fan frame using spray foam (preferred) or housewrap tape and
fabricate a whole-house fan cover using rigid board insulation or
fibrous duct board. (WHF)
8. Provide drainage and moisture control. (BI, CI, SI)
A. For a basement and slab, install a capillary break beneath the slab
floor using 6- to 10-mil polyethylene placed over at least 4 inches
of gravel.
B. Establish a foundation drainage system adjacent to the entire
perimeter of the footing using 4-inch perforated drainpipe, gravel,
and filter fabric.
C. For a basement or crawlspace, dampproof all below-grade portions
of the foundation wall and footing and place a continuous drainage
plane (e.g., commercial products, gravel) over the dampproofing.
D. Install a protective membrane (e.g., caulked metal flashing) between
the foundation and the sill or bottom plate to serve as a capillary
break. (WI)
E. Establish drainage swales to direct rainwater around the house.
F. Grade slopes 5% or more away from all sides of the house for at
least 5 feet.
G. Provide gutters to conduct rainwater away from the house.
H. For a crawlspace, close the crawlspace vents after making sure the
crawlspace is dry and use manual rather than thermostatically
controlled vents. Also, install 6-mil polyethylene across the
crawlspace, overlapping the seams by 12 inches and sealing the
polyethylene 6 inches up the crawlspace walls.
9. Select foundation insulation levels that meet or exceed the 2000
International Energy Conservation Code. (BI, CI, SI)
10. Use foundation insulation strategies.
A. For a house with a conditioned basement, insulate the basement
walls by insulating the exterior, insulating the interior (by furring
out the interior), or using insulated concrete forms. For a house
with an unconditioned basement, insulate the underfloor. (BI)
B. For a house with a crawlspace, insulate the walls of the crawlspace
or the underfloor. (CI)
C. For a slab foundation, install rigid board insulation around the
perimeter of the slab during slab construction using a codeapproved method. (SI)
11. Install underfloor insulation properly. (CI)
A. Install batts flush against the subfloor.
B. A vapor barrier is optional. If present, install it facing upward
against the subfloor, except in certain regions of the Gulf states and
similar areas with mild winters and hot summers, where it is
installed facing downward.
C. Cut the batts to the full length of the joist.
D. Slit the batts to fit around wiring and plumbing.
E. Cut batts lengthwise to fit into joist spaces with nonstandard
F. Insulate between air distribution system ducts and the subfloor as
space permits.
G. Use insulation hangers spaced every 12 to 18 inches to hold the
batts in place without compressing the insulation more than 1 inch.
15. Install housewrap properly. (AS, WRB)
A. Cover and seal the housewrap to the top and bottom plates and sills
using housewrap tape or caulk.
B. Cut the housewrap for window and door openings using the
modified “I” cut (an inverted “Y” pattern), fold back, and staple or
nail to the inside.
C. Overlap and seal housewrap seams using housewrap tape or caulk.
D. Seal all cuts, penetrations, and openings in the housewrap using
housewrap tape or caulk.
E. Use plastic-capped nails or staples to mechanically fasten the
housewrap to the house.
16. Select wall insulation levels that meet or exceed the 2000 International
Energy Conservation Code. (WI)
17. Install wall insulation properly. (WI)
A. Identify all walls (including bandjoists and walls next to garages,
mechanical rooms, etc.) that need to be insulated.
B. Insulate the exterior walls behind a stairwell and cover them with
sheet material before setting the stair stringers.
C. Cut batts to the full length of the cavity to be insulated.
D. Cut batts lengthwise to fit into cavities with nonstandard widths.
E. Slit batts to fit around wiring, wall outlets, and plumbing.
F. For cold and mixed climates, staple the kraft paper facing of the
batts to the front of the studs every 12 inches (in other climates, the
kraft paper may need to face away from the interior, or an unfaced
batt may be used).
12. Use advanced framing to improve insulation coverage. (AWF, WI)
A. Use insulated corners (two-stud or equivalent) with drywall clips or
vertical 1x4-inch nailers.
B. Provide a surface for attaching drywall at the connection of interior
partition walls to exterior walls by using drywall clips, vertical 1x6
lumber, or horizontal nailers (ladder) rather than additional studs.
C. Eliminate headers in non-load-bearing walls; use single-ply
headers when possible; and use insulated headers when headers
are needed.
D. Limit the use of blocking.
E. Use rigid board insulation in place of structural sheathing in
non-corner areas.
F. Use cross or let-in bracing to allow rigid board insulation to be
used in place of structural sheathing in corners.
13. Incorporate a weather-resistive barrier into the wall system. (WI, WRB)
14. Install sheathing properly. (AS)
A. Seal the sheathing seams with housewrap tape or caulk, or install
housewrap. (WRB)
B. Repair any deficiencies in the exterior sheathing or exterior rigid
board insulation. (WI)
C. Seal exterior penetrations in the sheathing (e.g., porch light
fixtures, outside outlets, phone, cable, electric service holes, faucet
hose bib) using caulk or spray foam.
18. Design the roof and attic for energy conservation. (CA)
A. Ventilate the attic using continuous soffit and ridge vents.
B. Size overhangs to shade south-facing windows without interfering
with passive heating. Roof overhangs can also be sized to provide
some marginal benefit for windows facing east and west. (PSD)
C. For open-framed attics, use raised-heel or oversized (cantilevered)
trusses or a raised top plate to allow for complete attic insulation
coverage over the exterior walls and soffit ventilation.
D. For cathedral ceilings, use scissor trusses or frame the ceiling to
provide adequate clearance for recommended insulation levels and
soffit ventilation.
19. Select attic insulation levels that meet or exceed the 2000 International
Energy Conservation Code. (CA)
20. Install attic insulation properly. (CA)
A. Elevate any attic decking to allow full-height insulation to be
installed. (AA)
B. Install blocking (metal flashing) to maintain clearance around
heat-producing equipment (e.g., flues, chimneys).
C. When using loose-fill insulation, install rafter baffles (e.g., commercial
products, felt paper) before ceiling drywall is installed to preserve
soffit ventilation and obtain maximum insulation coverage over the
exterior wall; use insulation dams (e.g., commercial products, rigid
board insulation, batt insulation, solid sheet goods) at the soffit,
porch, garage, and attic access to prevent insulation from spilling;
and install attic rulers to ensure complete and full coverage.
D. When using batts, cover the top of the ceiling joist or the bottom
cord of the truss with insulation, completely fill the joist cavities,
and fluff the batts to their proper loft.
E. For cathedral ceilings, install vent baffles between the insulation and
roof decking for ventilation.
F. For attic knee wall areas, insulate the knee wall and attic floor after
air sealing the open joist ends below the knee wall (plug the
opening with stuffing material and seal the material to the joist
using caulk or spray foam). Alternatively, insulate and air seal the
rafter space along the sloping ceiling of the knee wall. (AA)
21. Locate an attic access (e.g., attic hatch, pull-down stairs) in an
unconditioned part of the house (e.g., carport, garage, gable end of the
roof) rather than inside the house. Provide a locking mechanism for
security. (AA, CA)
22. If the attic or knee wall access is located in a conditioned space,
insulate and seal it carefully. (AA)
A. Construct it with a rigid frame (e.g., use 1x4-inch framing rather
than molding) and use a cover that will not warp.
B. Weatherstrip it and install a tight latch or latch bolts to hold the
access tight against the weatherstripping material. (AS, CA)
C. For an attic hatch, insulate the cover to the same R-value as the
ceiling by glueing three to four pieces of rigid board insulation and/
or stapling an insulation batt (R-15 or greater preferred) to the top
of the cover. (CA)
D. For a knee wall door, insulate the door to the same R-value as the
wall by glueing three to four pieces of rigid board insulation to the
attic side of the door.
E. For an attic pull-down stair, seal the stair to the rough framing
using caulk or non-expanding spray foam, and insulate it by
fabricating an insulated cover from rigid board insulation or fibrous
duct board or using a commercial product. (CA)
23. Follow window placement and selection guidelines. (PSD, WS)
A. For heating climates, maximize glazing areas on the south walls
and reduce north-facing windows. For cooling climates,
preferentially use north-facing windows and generously shade
south-facing windows.
B. Minimize unshaded glazing areas on the east and west walls,
especially in mixed and hot climates.
C. Select window types that meet or exceed the 2000 International
Energy Conservation Code or, preferably, are Energy Star labeled
and that are consistent with passive solar design considerations.
D. In southern climates, use shade screens and tinting on windows
facing south, east, and west that are not already shaded by the roof,
porch, vegetation, or other means.
24. Install windows properly. (AS, WS)
A. Seal the backsides of the top and side window flanges (but not the
bottom) to the sheathing or weather barrier during installation
using caulk. (WRB)
B. Seal windows into their rough openings before drywall is installed
using backer rod (preferred) and caulk, or use non-expanding spray
foam. (WI)
25. Select door types that meet or exceed the 2000 International Energy
Conservation Code.
26. Install doors properly.
A. Seal between the door threshold and subfloor using caulk. (AS)
B. Seal doors into their rough openings before drywall is installed
using backer rod (preferred) and caulk, or use non-expanding spray
foam. (AS, WI)
C. Adjust the door threshold properly for an airtight fit.
D. Install door weatherstripping.
27. Select appropriate heating and cooling equipment. (HCES)
A. Select the heating equipment type after comparing operating and
initial costs for all available fuel types.
B. Use higher-efficiency equipment when the cost is justified (typically
in larger homes in more severe climates where fuel costs are high).
C. Size equipment using the Air Conditioning Contractors of America
Manuals J and S.
D. If a programmable thermostat is desired, choose a model with an
Energy Star label.
E. For heat pumps, select a thermostat that is compatible with such
systems, does not automatically change over between heating and
cooling, and is equipped with an emergency heat switch that
activates an indoor indicator light.
28. Install heat pumps and air conditioners properly. (HPAC)
A. Install refrigerant lines that are as short and straight as possible,
properly pitched and trapped, and insulated (suction line only).
B. Install a liquid-line filter/dryer.
C. Evacuate refrigerant lines using the deep vacuum method before
weighing in the proper charge.
D. Conduct indoor air flow tests to ensure the correct air flow across
the indoor coil.
E. Check the refrigerant charge with the superheat, subcooling, or
approach method.
F. Place an outdoor unit on a level pad at least 12 inches from any
obstruction and 3 feet from landscaping to provide proper air
circulation. Avoid any obstruction within 48 inches of the air
discharge that would force air recirculation.
G. Install an outdoor thermostat on heat pumps to control auxiliary
heat use. (HCES)
29. Seal around the metal flue of combustion equipment using an
Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved metal collar and hightemperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk. (AS)
30. Design ductwork for efficiency. (DD)
A. Design an air distribution (duct) system using the Air Conditioning
Contractors of America Manual D.
B. Locate ducts inside the conditioned space rather than in the attic or
crawl space. (DIS)
C. Design the distribution system so it is all “hard” ducted. Avoid
using building cavities as part of the duct system. (DIS)
D. Consider supply outlet locations near interior walls to reduce duct
E. Specify volume dampers to facilitate balancing.
F. Include a return on each level of a multi-story house.
G. Specify transfer grills or jumper ducts to ensure air circulation in
each room with a door but no return.
31. Select duct insulation levels to meet or exceed the 2000 International
Energy Conservation Code. (DD, DIS)
32. Install ducts properly. (DIS)
A. Install ducts with proper support, without kinks or restrictions, and
with a minimum number of bends and turns.
B. Stretch flexible duct to its full length and cut to fit (do not
compress it).
C. Connect all joints in the ductwork with mechanical fasteners (e.g.,
screws, staples, drawbands).
D. Seal all joints in the ductwork (including connections to the air
handler, duct boots, and elbows) with approved tapes or preferably
E. Seal holes, seams, wire penetrations, refrigerant and condensate
line penetrations, access panels, and other openings at the air
handler with mastic, caulk, or tape.
F. Seal the return duct plenum (e.g., sheet metal, floor joist panning,
drywall) and any penetrations in the plenum using mastic
(preferred) or caulk.
G. Seal duct boots to the floor or drywall using caulk, foam, or mastic.
(AS, CI)
H. Install duct insulation to be continuous (no gaps or voids).
I. Permanently secure duct insulation using drawbands, wire, staples,
or approved tapes.
33. Select appropriate water heating equipment. (WH)
A. Consider fuel cost in selecting the system type.
B. Use higher-efficiency equipment when the cost is justified (typically
if hot water use and fuel costs are high).
C. Size the water heater using the first hour rating of the equipment by
estimating the daily peak one-hour hot water demand.
34. Install the water heater properly. (WH)
A. Connect the hot and cold water pipes to the correct taps on the
water heater.
B. Insulate the water heater tank with a jacket, following manufacturer
requirements, if it is located outside the conditioned space of the
C. Install heat traps (inverted loops, preferred, or check valves) on
both the hot and cold water pipes at the water heater.
D. Insulate the first 6 feet of the hot and cold water pipes connected to
the water heater.
E. Set the water heater thermostat to 120°F.
F. Seal around the metal flue of combustion equipment using an
Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved metal collar and hightemperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk. (AS)
35. For a house with a crawlspace (especially in cold and mixed climates),
insulate the water pipes in the crawlspace for freeze protection. (WH)
36. Select refrigerators, clothes washers, and dishwashers that are Energy
Star labeled. (EEA)
37. Install fuel-fired stoves and ovens that have pilotless ignition. (CES)
38. Select a gas dryer if possible. (EEA)
39. If a combustion furnace and/or water heater is being installed in a
conditioned space, use sealed-combustion, fan-assisted equipment or
isolate the equipment closet from the conditioned space. (CES)
A. Insulate and seal the walls and ceiling of the equipment closet as if
they were exterior walls and ceilings.
B. Install a solid (non-louvered) door with weatherstripping and a
C. Seal all fuel lines, water lines, and electrical penetrations through the
equipment closet.
D. Provide two air inlets for combustion and a vent for flue gases
following code requirements.
40. Install a carbon monoxide detector if any fuel-burning appliance
(e.g., heating system, water heater, stove, fireplace) is installed in the
home. (CES)
41. Measure carbon monoxide levels on all fuel-burning appliances
after installation. (CES)
42. Design an appropriate whole-house ventilation system. (WHVS)
A. Select a general ventilation design strategy appropriate for the climate.
B. Determine ventilation requirements for the house by consulting
American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning
Engineers, Inc. standards and local codes.
C. Select equipment and controls to meet the determined ventilation
D. Incorporate bathroom, kitchen, and other spot ventilation systems into
the design at points of moisture generation.
43. Select and install ventilation equipment properly. (WHVS)
A. Select energy-efficient and quiet fans (2 sones or less), or install the
fan remotely outside the living space.
B. Size fans based on type, length, and layout of the associated duct
system. (SV)
C. Install ventilation ducts that are smooth, as short as possible, as
straight as possible with a minimum of elbows, adequately supported,
properly sized, sealed, and insulated if outside the conditioned
space. (SV)
D. Exhaust ventilation ducts directly to the exterior through the roof or
sidewall, not in attics or crawlspaces. (SV)
For more information, contact:
Energy Efficiency and
Renewable Energy
Clearinghouse (EREC)
Or visit the Building
Technologies Program Web site
at www.buildings.gov
Written and prepared for
the U.S. Department of
Energy by:
Southface Energy Institute
U.S. Department of Energy’s
Oak Ridge
National Laboratory
Buildings Technology Center
The International Energy
Conservation Code can be
obtained from the International
Code Council, 703-931-4533,
ACCA Manuals D, J, and S can
be obtained from the Air
Conditioning Contractors of
America, 1712 New Hampshire
Ave., NW, Washington, DC
20009, 202-483-9370,
ASHRAE Standards can be
obtained from the American
Society of Heating,
Refrigerating, and
Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc.
1791 Tullie Circle, NE, Atlanta,
GA 30329, 800-527-4723,
NOTICE: Neither the United States
government nor any agency thereof, nor
any of their employees, makes any
warranty, express or implied, or
assumes any legal liability or
responsibility for the accuracy,
E. Equip ventilation ducts with backdraft
dampers. (SV)
F. Install transfer grills or undercut doors to
facilitate air flow between rooms.
G. Balance and test all ventilation systems after
installation. Make sure the backdraft damper is
free swinging and seals when the fan is off.
44. Select and install bathroom fans properly. (SV)
A. Size bathroom fans to provide the larger of
50 cfm or 8 air changes per hour, typically at
0.25 inches of static pressure.
B. Use Energy Star-labeled fans to be
C. Select fans with a noise rating of no more than
2 sones but preferably less than 1 sone.
D. Slope the ducts to the outside if a sidewall
discharge is used.
E. Seal the fan housings to the drywall using caulk
or foam. (AS, CA)
45. Select and install the kitchen range hood fan
properly. (SV)
A. Select a kitchen range hood fan with a flow
rating of at least 100 cfm or 40 cfm per linear
foot of hood, typically at 0.25 inches of static
B. Use an Energy Star-labeled fan to be
C. Select a fan with a noise rating of no more than
4 sones but preferably less than 2 sones.
46. Install dedicated fluorescent light fixtures for all
ceiling- and wall-mounted fixtures that will be on
for 2 hours or more each day, especially kitchens,
hallways, and often bathrooms. (ELS)
47. If recessed lights are installed in a ceiling with an
unconditioned space above it, use only
Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved fixtures that
are airtight, are Insulation Contact (IC) rated, and
meet ASTM E283 requirements. (AS, CA, ELS)
48. Seal light fixtures to the drywall using caulk.
(AS, CA)
49. Install fluorescent, high-intensity discharge, or
low-pressure sodium fixtures for exterior lighting
unless incandescent lights are automatically
controlled to be on for just a few minutes each
day. (ELS)
50. Use motion detectors, photosensors, and timers on
exterior lighting. (ELS)
completeness, or usefulness of any
information, apparatus, product, or
process disclosed. The views and
opinions of authors expressed herein do
not necessarily state or reflect those of
the United States government or any
agency thereof.
Printed with a renewable-source ink on paper containing at
least 50% wastepaper, including 20% postconsumer waste.
March 2003 DOE/GO 10099-766
For further information on any of the checklist items,
individual DOE fact sheets can be downloaded from
— Attic Access (DOE/GO-102000-0768)
— Air Sealing (DOE/GO-102000-0767)
AWF — Advanced Wall Framing
— Basement Insulation
— Ceilings and Attics (DOE/GO-102000-0771)
CES — Combustion Equipment Safety
— Crawlspace Insulation
— Air Distribution System Design
— Air Distribution System Installation and
Sealing (DOE/GO-102003-0783)
— Energy-Efficient Appliances
— Energy Efficiency Pays
— Efficient Lighting Strategies
HCES — Heating and Cooling Equipment Selection
HPAC — Central Heat Pump and Air Conditioner
Installation (DOE/GO-102002-0781)
PSD — Passive Solar Design
— Right-Size Heating and Cooling Equipment
— Slab Insulation (DOE/GO-102000-0775)
— Spot Ventilation (DOE/GO-102002-0786)
— Water Heating (DOE/GO-102001-0785)
WHF — Whole House Fan (DOE/GO-10099-0746)
WHVS— Whole-House Ventilation Systems
— Wall Insulation (DOE/GO-102000-0772)
WRB — Weather-Resistive Barriers
— Window Selection (DOE/GO-10099-0777)
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