Tower Hobbies Trainer 60 MKII ARF User manual

Tower Hobbies Trainer 60 MKII ARF  User manual
Wingspan: 69 in [1,753mm]
Wing Area: 880 sq in [57 dm2]
Weight: 7.25 lbs [3,289 g] Length: 56.5 in [1,435mm]
Wing Loading: 19 oz/sq ft [58 g/dm2]
Engine: .61 cu in [10 cc] two-stroke
Radio: 4 channel
Tower Hobbies® guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Tower Hobbies’
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Tower Hobbies reserves the right to change or modify
this warranty without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
© Copyright 2002 V 1.0
Tower Hobbies
P.O. Box 9078
Champaign, IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
TOWZ1153 for TOWA1010
INTRODUCTION ..............................................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ................................................2
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ...................................3
ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS................................3
RADIO RECOMMENDATIONS ..................................3
COVERING ACCESSORIES......................................3
ADHESIVES & ASSEMBLING SUPPLIES .....................3
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES & TOOLS ...................................3
ASSEMBLE THE WING ...................................................4
JOIN THE WING ........................................................4
HOOK UP THE AILERONS........................................6
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE .......................................10
MOUNT THE STAB & FIN........................................10
INSTALL THE FUEL TANK ............................................14
MOUNT THE ENGINE....................................................15
MOUNT THE LANDING GEAR......................................17
FINAL ASSEMBLY ........................................................19
HOOK UP THE CONTROLS....................................19
INSTALL THE RADIO GEAR ...................................21
APPLY THE DECALS ....................................................23
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY................................23
CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS ...................23
SET THE CONTROL THROWS ...............................24
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.) ................................25
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY ......................25
PREFLIGHT ...................................................................25
IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL ........................................25
CHARGE THE BATTERIES .....................................25
BALANCE THE PROPELLERS................................26
GROUND CHECK ....................................................26
RANGE CHECK .......................................................26
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ...............................26
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)..............................27
CHECK LIST ..................................................................27
GETTING READY TO FLY .............................................27
USING RUBBER BANDS.........................................28
TAKEOFF .................................................................28
FLYING .....................................................................28
FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS .................................29
MODELING TERMS & TRIVIA.......................................29
PARTS section
1. Your Tower Trainer 60 MKII ARF should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model
that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of
its performance capabilities, the Tower Trainer 60 MKII ARF,
if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly
cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
3. You must take time to assemble straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the assembly process.
5. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished model depends on how you
assemble it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
If you have not flown this type of model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced
pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.
Thank you for purchasing our Tower Trainer™ 60 MKII
ARF. This model has been specially created for you and
other first-time radio control modelers. The Tower Trainer 60
MKII ARF offers nearly all the excitement of piloting a real
airplane…and develops skills that will take you anywhere
you want in your new hobby.
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend
you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.
There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides insurance
❍ Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❍ RTV Silicone
❍ Great Planes® Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
❍ Easy-Touch Sandpaper, 180 Grit (GPMR6184)
to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and events.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are available
at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. Contact
the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you assemble the Tower Trainer 60 MKII ARF.
❍ Great Planes CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
❍ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700)
❍ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❍ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❍ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❍ Denatured Alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❍ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line (K&SR4575)
❍ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❍ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❍ Felt-Tip Marker (TOPQ2510)
❍ Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698)
❍ Great Planes AccuThrow™ Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to
finish the Tower Trainer 60 MKII ARF. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
Engine Recommendations
O.S.® 65 LA (OSMG0065)
O.S. 61 FX (OSMG0561)
SUPERTIGRE® G-61 Ring (SUPG0161)
Radio Recommendations
❍ 1. Remove the major parts of the kit from the box (wings,
fuselage, tail parts, etc.) and inspect them for damage. If any
parts are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in this manual.
Covering Accessories
Tower Custom Sealing Iron (TOWR3250)
Top Flite® Hot Sock™ Iron Cover (TOPR2175)
In addition to common household tools and hobby tools,
this is the “short list” of the most important items required to
assemble the Tower Trainer 60 MKII ARF. Tower Hobbies
Build-it™ CA and Epoxy glue are recommended.
❍ 2 oz. Tower Hobbies Build-it CA (TOWR3800)
❍ 30-Minute Tower Hobbies Build-it Epoxy (TOWR3811)
❍ 6-Minute Tower Hobbies Build-it Epoxy (TOWR3807)
❍ Hobby Knife (HCAR0105), #11 Blades (HCAR0211)
❍ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❍ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
❍ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
❍ Small metal file
❍ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❍ 2. Remove the masking tape and separate the ailerons
from the wing, the rudder from the fin and the elevator from
the stab. Where necessary, use a covering iron with a Hot
Sock™ Iron Cover to tighten the covering that may have
loosened during storage or from removing the masking
tape. Apply pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly
bond the covering to the wood.
❍ 1. In order to assemble the wing you will need the
following items as shown in the photo above.
Right Wing Panel (1)
Left Wing Panel (1)
Right Aileron (1)
Left Aileron (1)
CA Hinges (8)
Wing Joiners (4)
Aileron Servo Tray (1)
Aileron Servo Tray Mounting Blocks (2)
Aileron Pushrods (2)
Faslinks (2)
Clevises (2)
Silicone Clevis Retainers (2)
Nylon Torque Rod Horns (2)
❍ 2. In order to assemble the wing you will need the items
❍ 3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the four 3mm plywood
shown in the photo above from your radio control system
wing joiners together. Use weights or clamps to hold the
joiners in place until the epoxy cures.
❍ 4.Test fit the aileron servo in the 3mm plywood aileron servo
tray. If necessary, trim the opening in the tray to accommodate
the servo. Once you are satisfied with the fit of the servo, remove
it from the tray and set it aside for now.
❍ 7. Trim the covering from the ends of the root ribs on both
wing panels. This is easily done with a sanding block and
medium-grit sandpaper as shown. Trim both wing panels at
this time.
❍ 5. Measure the width of your servo. Mark and cut 1/2 of
this distance from the sheeting over the aileron servo
mounting area in the wing panel to accommodate 1/2 of
your aileron servo on each wing panel as shown in the
photograph above. Remove a small area of the sheeting
along side the servo as shown in the right wing panel to
allow the servo lead to exit the wing when the servo is
mounted in place.
❍ 8. Draw a centerline on both sides of the assembled
plywood wing joiner as shown.
❍ 9. Locate the two 8mm square x 38mm aileron servo
tray mounting blocks. Mark a centerline on each block.
Using the wing joiner as a guide, mark the wing dihedral
angle on both of the aileron mounting blocks. Trim and sand
to shape at this time.
❍ 6. The servo will be centered in the wing after the two
panels are joined. Test fit the servo into the cutout of both
the wing panels. Trim the root rib if necessary to
accommodate the servo and the servo wire. Check the left
wing panel in the same way.
Set the blocks aside for now.
❍ 10. Test fit the wing joiner into one wing panel, then the
other. Be certain the joiner is installed upright with the joiner
angled upward for wing dihedral. Also make sure that the
joiner slides in all the way to the centerline. Test fit the wing
panels together with the joiner. Make certain both panels
fit well.
❍ 12. Once satisfied with the fit of the joiner and the wing
has the proper dihedral, it is time to glue the two panels
together. First thoroughly coat the inside of both pockets
where the joiner fits and one half of the joiner with
30-minute epoxy. Making certain the joiner is upright, insert
the coated end into one of the wing panels. Coat the other
end of the joiner and both wing root ribs with the epoxy and
join the two wing panels together.
❍ 13. Wipe away epoxy that squeezes out from between the
wing halves with paper towels saturated with alcohol. Use
masking tape on the top and bottom to hold the wing together
as shown. Be certain the root ribs on the ends of the wing
panels accurately align. Again, wipe away excess epoxy and do
not disturb the wing until the epoxy has fully hardened.
❍ 11. The measurement for this wing is 3-3/4" [95mm]
plus/minus 1/8" [3mm] from the top of your table to the
highest point of the wing tip as shown in the photo. To check
that this is correct, join the two wing panels together with the
joiner in place.
Lay the wing on a flat surface with one panel flat on your
bench or table. To do this you will need to allow the trailing
edge of the wing to overhang the edge of your table in order
to avoid the aileron torque rods as shown in the photograph
above. After making sure the root ribs are fitting together
with no gaps on the top or bottom of the wing, measure the
distance from the surface of the table to the wing tip. If this
measurement is not 3-3/4" [95mm] plus/minus 1/8" [3mm]
make adjustments in the plywood joiner. (It is possible that
the joiner may require slight sanding to remove slivers of
wood or excess epoxy that may interfere with the fit).
Do the left wing first so the assembly matches the
photographs the first time through. You can do one wing at
a time, or work on them together.
❍ ❍ 1. Take a close look at the supplied hinges. The above
❍ ❍ 4. Coat the “arm” portion of the aileron torque rod that
slips inside the aileron and the groove, and the hole in the
aileron where the torque rod fits, with 30-minute epoxy. Tip:
You may want to use a toothpick to get epoxy into the hole
drilled in the aileron for the aileron torque rod “arm.”
photo has this slot highlighted and must be inserted into
place in the proper direction as indicated in the photo.
❍ ❍ Use a strip of waxed paper between the torque rod and
the wing to keep from gluing the torque rod to the wing. Be
careful to keep the epoxy out of the area where the rod
enters the trailing edge of the wing. Place a small amount of
petroleum jelly in this area. Join the aileron to the wing and
the torque rod with the hinges. Wipe away excess epoxy
with a tissue saturated with alcohol.
❍ ❍ 2. Test fit the hinges in the hinge slots of the aileron
and the wing. If you have difficulty inserting the hinges,
insert a #11 blade into the slot and carefully move it back
and forth to slightly widen the slot. Test fit the aileron to the
wing with the hinges.
❍ ❍ 5. Remove the T-pins if you’ve used any. Adjust the
aileron so there is a small gap—just enough to see light
through or to slip a piece of paper through—between the
aileron and the wing.
❍ ❍ 6. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of
each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. After the CA has
fully hardened, test the hinges by pulling on the aileron. Go
back and install the other aileron in the same manner.
❍ ❍ 3. If the hinges don’t remain centered, stick a pin through
the middle of the hinge to hold it in position as shown.
How to cut covering from balsa.
To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron instead
of a hobby knife to cut the covering from the stab. The tip
of the soldering iron doesn't have to be sharp, but a fine tip
does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use a
straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will
just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The
hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a
fine cut. Peel off the covering.
❍ 7. Glue the two 8mm square x 38mm aileron servo tray
mounting blocks that you cut to shape earlier to the aileron
servo tray. Be sure that you glue the flat side of the blocks to
the aileron servo mounting tray.
Be sure to place the aileron servo lead in the cut out you
made in an earlier step. Glue the servo mount to the wing
with 6-minute epoxy.
❍ 9. Assemble the servo using the four servo grommets and
four brass eyelets as shown in the sketch above. Insert the
servo into the mount and mark the location for the 4 screws.
Remove the servo and drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the
servo mount for the servo mounting screws.
Run the servo mounting screws into the mount and then
remove them, which will make threads in the wooden servo
mount. Add a drop of thin CA to the holes and allow to fully
harden, thus hardening the threads for more strength. Note:
Do not apply the thin CA with the servo in place as you will
glue it to the mount. Mount the aileron servo using the servo
mounting screws.
❍ 8. Place the servo into this assembly and test fit this into
location in the center of the wing. Mark the location of the
mounting blocks with a felt-tipped pen.
Use a sharp #11 blade to cut the covering from the wing for
the aileron servo mount. Be extremely careful to cut only
the covering and do not cut into the balsa wood under the
❍ 10. Thread nylon torque rod horns onto both aileron
torque rods until the top of the horn is even with the top of
the torque rod as shown in the photograph.
❍ ❍ 14. After bending the pushrods at your mark, slide the
Faslink over the wire and snap it into place on the pushrod.
❍ 11. Make a two-arm servo arm by cutting two arms off a
four-arm servo arm. Enlarge the outer holes in the arm with
a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill bit).
❍ ❍ Cut the wire that extends beyond the Faslink; be certain
to leave 1/16" [1.6mm] of wire protruding from the Faslink as
shown in the photograph.
❍ 12. Assemble the two aileron pushrods made from two
200mm wire pushrods, clevises, and silicone retainers. To
make the pushrods, install the clevises onto the wire
pushrods approximately 25 full turns.
❍ 15. Install the remaining pushrod in the same manner.
The above photo shows how your assembly should look
when finished.
❍ ❍ 13. Center the servo arm on the servo. Attach the clevis
to the torque rod horn; hold the aileron level with the bottom of
the wing, using a straightedge to assure accuracy. Mark the
location where the wire crosses the hole in the servo arm. At
this location bend the wire 90 degrees.
❍ 1. In order to complete this section you will need the
following items as shown in the photograph above. You will
also need the wing (not shown) for alignment purposes.
Fuselage (1)
Stabilizer (1)
Elevator (1)
Fin (1)
Rudder (1)
CA Hinges (7)
❍ 2. Test fit the hinges into hinge slots in the stabilizer and
elevator and the fin and rudder. If necessary insert a #11
blade into the hinge slots and run it back and forth to
enlarge them slightly. Important Note: Remember to insert
the hinges with the cut running the correct direction.
❍ 3. Use a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade and cut the
covering from the openings on both sides of the fuselage for
the stab. Also cut the covering from the opening in the top of the
fuselage for the fin. Remove the elevator from the stab.
a piece of non-elastic string (K & S #801 Kevlar thread;
K&SR4575). Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin.
❍ 4. Taking accurate measurements, locate the center of
the stab along the trailing edge. Slide the stab into the
fuselage and center it over the aft end of the fuselage. Insert
a T-pin through the stab and into the fuse at the location
shown in the photograph above. This will hold it in place but
will still allow for correct alignment.
❍ 5. Support the model with a small stand or cardboard
box. Place the wing into the wing saddle on the top of the
fuselage. Stand five to ten feet behind the model and view
the stab and wing. If the stab and wing align with each other,
proceed to the next step. If the stab and wing do not align,
place a small weight on the “high” side of the stab to bring it
into alignment. If much weight is required, remove the stab
and carefully sand the slot in the fuselage where the stab
fits until it aligns with the wing.
❍ 7. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other end of the
❍ 6. Stick a T-pin into the top of the fuselage centered in the
❍ 8. When you are satisfied with the alignment of the stab
use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite Panel Line
string and draw an arrow on it. Slide the tape along the
string and align the arrow with one end of the stab as shown
in the photograph. Swing the string over to the same
position on the other end of the stab. If the distance is not
equal move the stab 1/2 way to the arrow. Then move the
string back to the other side to check alignment. Adjust the
stab in this manner until both sides are equal.
middle stringer over the firewall. Tie a small loop in one end of
location of the fin on top of the fuselage. Using the same
method as with the stab, cut the covering material from the
mark on the bottom of the fin and the top of the fuselage.
Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of the fuselage onto
the top and bottom of the stab.
❍ 11. Apply 30-minute epoxy to all joining surfaces of the
stab. Slide the stab into position. Wipe away residual epoxy
with a tissue dampened with rubbing/denatured alcohol. If
the stab required a weight on one side or the other to align
it with the wing, position the weight. Use the pin and string
to confirm stab alignment. Do not disturb the model until the
epoxy has fully hardened.
❍ 9. Remove the stab from the fuselage. Use a sharp #11
hobby knife or refer to the Expert Tip on page 8, to cut the
covering from the stab 1/16" [1.6mm] inside the lines you
marked on the top and bottom of the stab. Do not remove
the covering from the trailing edge of the stab. Use care to
cut only into the covering and not into the wood. Cutting
into the balsa will weaken the structure.
❍ 12. Apply 30-minute epoxy to all joining surfaces of the fin.
Insert the fin and wipe away excess epoxy. Use a 90° triangle to
check that the fin is vertical. If necessary, use masking tape to
pull the tip of the fin to one side or other of the stab until it is
vertical. Do not disturb the model until the epoxy has fully
❍ 13. When the epoxy has fully hardened, make sure the
rudder and elevator are in the proper position with all the
hinges properly installed. Place six drops of thin CA on both
sides of each hinge location. Let the CA cure completely. Do
not use activator. Pull on each control surface to make sure
it is glued properly.
❍ 10. Note: If you like, you may remove the rudder and
elevator from the fin and stab for these steps. We will glue
them into place later.
Fit the fin into the fuselage and mark the location of the
fuselage onto the fin with a felt-tip pin. Also mark the
❍ 1. For this step you will need the following items as shown
in the photograph above.
#1 Fuselage (1)
#2 Wing Mounting Dowels (2)
#3 2.6mm x 8mm Wood Screws (4)
#4 Molded Wing Dowel Covers (4)
❍ 3. Insert both wing mounting dowels so they protrude an
equal amount on both sides of the fuselage. Mix 1/4 oz. [7ml] of
30-minute epoxy. Apply glue around the dowels next to the
fuselage and slide them in and out of the fuselage to help
distribute the epoxy into the fuselage. Using a paper towel,
spread the excess epoxy around the ends of the dowels. This
will fuelproof and add strength to the wood. From the inside of
the fuselage, apply more epoxy around the dowels where they
meet the sides of the fuselage. These wing dowels will be used
as the anchors for the rubber bands to hold the wing in
position. Wipe off all excess epoxy using a paper towel and
rubbing/denatured alcohol.
After the epoxy has cured, add the molded wing dowel
covers and attach them with four 2.6mm x 8mm wood
screws into the pre-drilled holes in the ends of the wing
dowels as shown in the photograph above.
❍ 2. Locate the four positions for the 7mm wing dowel holes
by gently pressing the covering in the areas on the fuselage
sides just below the wing saddles. These positions can be
seen from the inside of the fuselage. Carefully cut the
covering material from the holes using a sharp hobby knife.
❍ 1. To complete this step you will need the following items
as shown in the photograph above.
Remember (or use a felt-tip pen to mark) which tube is the
fuel pick-up tube and which tube is the vent (that will be
connected to the pressure fitting on the muffler). Place the
fuel lines on the vent and fuel pick-up tubes at this time.
#1 Fuel Tank (1)
#2 Clunk (1)
#3 Fuel Pickup Tube (1)
#4 Vent Tube (1)
#5 Fuel Line for Pickup (1)
#6 Stopper with Hardware (1)
#7 Fuel Line (1)
Note: The fuel tank parts shown in the photo are placed
inside the tank at the factory.
❍ 2. Assemble the stopper, tubes, and clunk as shown in
the photograph. Bend the vent tube so it is just below the top
of the tank and then insert this assembly into in the tank.
Tighten the screw to expand the stopper, thus sealing the
tank. Be certain the clunk at the end of the fuel line inside
the tank does not contact the rear of the tank. Otherwise, the
line may become stuck above the fuel level and discontinue
fuel flow.
❍ 3. Install the tank in the fuselage with the neck of the tank
inserted into the hole in the firewall. Secure the tank into
place with RTV silicone or Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo (PAAR3200)
around the stopper and then slip the tank into place. Also
put a bead of silicone around the stopper on the front of the
NOTE: The engine in your airplane is mounted slightly different from that of most R/C aircraft. This is done to allow the use of many
different types of engines. It also allows a “no-drill” approach to ease the engine installation. Read through the procedure and
understand all the steps before actually performing them.
❍ 1. To complete this step you will need the following items
as shown in the photograph above.
Fuselage (1)
Muffler for Engine (1) (not supplied)
Engine (1) (not supplied)
Spinner (1)
Propeller (1) (not supplied)
Engine Mount, .61 size (1)
Engine Mounting Straps (2)
4mm x 20mm Machine Screws (4)
4mm x 25mm Machine Screws (4)
4mm Lock Washers (8)
4mm Nuts (4)
❍ 3. The engine’s mounting lugs are “sandwiched” between
the engine mount and the engine mount straps. Begin by
placing four 4mm lock washers onto each of the four 4mm x
25mm machine screws.
Pass two of the screws through the two engine mount straps
and place the screws through the back holes of the engine
mount as shown in the photograph. Place two 4mm nuts into
the recesses on the bottom of the engine mount. Start the
screws, but do not tighten them at this time.
❍ 2. Secure the engine mount to the firewall with four 4mm x
20mm machine screws and 4mm lock washers. Use
Threadlocker on the machine screws to keep them from
vibrating loose. Blind nuts are pre-installed behind the firewall.
❍ 4. With the engine in place, install the remaining two 4mm
x 25mm machine screws, 4mm lock washers, and 4mm nuts
in place at the front of the engine mount as shown in the
photograph. Do not tighten the screws at this time to allow
for the positioning of the engine.
❍ 7. Attach the fuel lines to the engine. The line you marked
“Vent” should be attached to the muffler. The other line will
be attached to the needle valve. Make sure there are no
sharp bends in the lines. If so, carefully shorten the lines to
allow for a smooth flowing bend to the appropriate fitting of
the engine.
❍ 5. Install the spinner backplate, propeller, propeller washer
and the propeller nut onto the engine. Turn the propeller
clockwise until it is against the smallest pins on the backplate.
Keep the propeller horizontal when the engine is against its
compression (the point at which you feel resistance when you
turn the crankshaft counterclockwise). Use an adjustable
wrench to securely tighten the propeller nut.
❍ 8. Attach the spinner cone with the screws provided. Be
careful not to overtighten these screws. They are threaded
into plastic that can strip out if they are overtightened.
❍ 6. Measure the distance from the spinner backplate to the
firewall. It should be 5-1/2" [140mm] on both sides of the
spinner backplate. Adjust the engine if needed and tighten the
screws evenly, using Threadlocker on the screws and the nuts
to secure the engine to the mount. Following the engine
manufacturer’s instructions, install the muffler to the engine.
❍ 1. The photo above shows the items you will need to
complete this step. These parts are:
#1 Fuselage (1)
#2 Main Landing Gear (2)
#3 Nose Gear (1)
#4 Wheels (3), (2 with 5mm axle holes, 1 with 4mm
axle holes)
#5 4mm x 12mm Phillips Head Screws (2)
#6 Nose Gear Bearing Block (1)
#7 4mm Wheel Collars (5)
#8 5mm Wheel Collars (4)
#9 3mm x 8mm Phillips Head Set Screw (1) For Nose
Gear Steering Arm Only
#10 3mm x 5mm Phillips Head Set Screw (8)
#11 4mm Flat Washers (2)
#12 Landing Gear Straps (2)
#13 3mm X 10mm Phillips Head Wood Screws
#14 Nylon Steering Arm (1)
#15 Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector Assembly (1)
❍ 2. Test fit the two main landing gear wires into the predrilled holes inside the channel located in the bottom of the
fuselage. If they will not go in easily, drill out the two holes
using a 5/32" [4mm] drill bit. Next, use the drill bit or hobby
knife to bevel the inside corners of the holes so that the
bend in the wire will seat fully into the holes and the wire will
be flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Place the landing
gear wires into the channel. Look carefully and you will find
four pre-drilled holes under the covering. They can be seen
in the photograph.
Important Note: The main landing gear has a diameter of
5mm and the nose gear’s diameter is 4mm. Look carefully
at the wheels and wheel collars used during the following
steps and you will notice that one wheel has a 4mm hole for
the axle. This wheel is the nose wheel only. The same is
true with the wheel collars. Use the 4mm collars to
assemble the nose gear.
❍ 3. At the locations of the pre-drilled holes attach the
nylon landing gear straps to the fuselage using the four
and then gently tighten the nut. It is important not to overtighten
this nut; this would not allow the screw-lock pushrod connector
to rotate on the steering arm while in operation. Adjust the
tightness of the nut and test the connector’s ability to rotate but
still be somewhat tight. When you are satisfied with this
adjustment place a small amount of Threadlocker on the top of
the nut and allow it to wick down into the threads.
3mm x 10mm Phillips head wood screws and the nylon
landing gear straps as shown in the photograph.
❍ 7. Place another wheel collar with a 3mm x 5mm Phillips
head set screw onto the nose gear wire. Then insert the
nose gear wire into the nose gear bearing bracket. As you
slide it through the bearing bracket, hold the assembled
steering arm in place and slide the nose gear through the
steering arm and into the hole in the bottom of the engine
mount. Note that the existing flat spot on the nose gear wire
is facing forward. When you have the nose gear installed,
tighten the two Phillips head set screws in the wheel collars
to complete the installation.
❍ 4. Install the nose gear by attaching the nose gear
bearing bracket to the firewall with two 4mm x 12mm
Phillips head screws and the two 4mm washers which
must go behind the bracket so they act as spacers as
shown in the photograph above. Apply Threadlocker to
these screws before installing them.
❍ 5. The steering arm should be cut off as shown in the
above photograph. Place one of the wheel collars into the
steering arm base, making sure the threaded hole for the
set screw is aligned with the hole in the steering arm base
as shown in the photograph above. The 3mm x 8mm
Phillips head set screw is then placed into the wheel collar
through the hole in the base of the steering arm.
❍ 8. Place a 5mm wheel collar and a wheel on each of the two
main landing gear axles. Add the second 5mm wheel collar on
the outside of the wheel to each axle. Center the wheel on the
axles. Mark the location of the outer wheel collar on the axles
with a felt-tipped pen. Remove the wheel collars and wheels;
then, file or grind a 1/4" [6mm] flat spot on the axles at the
locations you marked. This is done to prevent the wheel collar
from turning or becoming loose during flight. Secure the 2
wheels on the axles using the 3mm x 5mm Phillips head set
screws in the wheel collars, using Threadlocker on the set
screws to hold them securely in place.
❍ 6. Place the screw-lock pushrod connector onto the
steering arm exactly as shown in the above photograph.
Important Note: The screw-lock pushrod connector is
assembled in the bag. In order to place it onto the steering arm
you will need to remove the wheel-type nut and the washer on
the end of the unit. Insert the threaded stem of the unit into the
hole on the steering arm in the manner shown in the
photograph. Place the washer on the threaded stem followed by
the wheel-type nut. Apply Threadlocker to the threaded stem
Repeat this process for the nose gear using 4mm wheel
collars and the wheel with the 4mm hole for the axle.
Double check all the wheels to make sure they still spin
freely. If not, move the inner wheel collar away from the
wheel slightly and retighten the screw.
#6 Control Horn Backplates (2)
#7 Control Horns (2)
#8 2mm x 14mm Phillips Head Screws (4)
#9 680mm Threaded Elevator/Rudder Pushrods (2)
#10 Battery/Receiver Tray (1)
#11 2.6mm x 8mm Screws (4)
#12 Threaded One End Throttle Pushrod (1)
#13 Un-threaded Steering Pushrod (1)
#14 Plastic Steering/Throttle Pushrod Guide Tubes (2)
#15 10mm x 13mm x 87mm Balsa Pushrod Support (1)
#16 Hook and Loop Material (2)
❍ 1. The items shown in the above photograph will be
needed from the airplane kit to complete this step. These
items are:
Protective Foam (2)
Faslinks (2)
Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector (1)
Silicone Clevis Retainers (3)
Clevises (3)
❍ 2. The items shown will be
needed from the radio system to
complete this step.
#1 Servos (3)
#2 Receiver (1)
#3 Switch Harness (1)
#4 Rubber Grommets (12)
#5 Brass Eyelets (12)
#6 Servo Mounting Screws (12)
#7 Aileron Extension (1)
#8 Battery Pack (1)
❍ 3. There is a 5mm hole in the firewall for the pushrod
guide tube that will align with the throttle arm on most
two-stroke engines. Use medium sandpaper to roughen
both plastic pushrod guide tubes. Insert one pushrod guide
tube through the hole in the firewall for the throttle, and the
other for the steering pushrod guide tube.
❍ 6. Screw two nylon clevises 25 full turns onto the two
threaded wire pushrods. Slip silicone retainers over the
clevises. Slit the covering material where the guide tubes
exit the fuselage with a hobby knife. The location of the
rudder tube exit is on top of the fuse next to the fin and the
elevator tube exit is located on the same side of fuse under
the stab. After you have made your cuts, slide the assembled
pushrods through the guide tubes.
❍ 4. Thread a nylon clevis 25 full turns onto the threaded
pushrod wire. Slip a silicone retainer over the clevis. Insert
the pushrod with the clevis all the way into the throttle guide
tube and connect the clevis to the throttle arm on the engine
as shown in the photograph above.
❍ 5. Note: The above photograph is taken from the bottom
❍ 7. Connect the clevises to the control horns, placing
them in the second hole from the end of the horn as shown.
Position the control horns on the elevator and rudder as
shown in the photograph. The row of holes in the horns
should be over the hinge line. If necessary small bends may
be made in the pushrods to position them with the control
surfaces. Mark the locations of the holes in the base of the
of the fuselage. Run the un-threaded steering pushrod
through the screw-lock pushrod connector and continue
pushing it all the way into the steering rod guide tube.
Position the pushrod guide tubes to extend approximately
1/8" [3mm] past the firewall and glue them into place using
6-minute epoxy.
them, creating threads in the wood at all the locations. Add
a drop of thin CA to each hole and allow it to harden (it is
best to take the servos out of the tray while doing this to
avoid gluing the servos to the tray). Reposition the servos
and mount them to the tray with the screws. Note: Run your
servo lead wires forward as shown in the photos.
control horns on the elevator and rudder. At these locations
drill 5/64" [2mm] holes through the elevator and rudder for
mounting the control horns with 2mm x 14mm Phillips head
screws. Mount the control horns using the nylon back plates
on the other side of the control surfaces.
Elevator Arm
Throttle Arm
Rudder/Steering Arm
❍ 1. You must modify 3 servo arms to be used in this
section. Starting with the 4 armed servo arms supplied with
your radio system, modify them exactly as shown in the
above illustration. Enlarge the holes in the locations shown
with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm]
drill bit).
Note: You may wish to trim the excess material from the arms
as shown in the illustration and the following photographs.
❍ 4. With the servos mounted into place, carefully center
the rudder with the fin and the elevator with the stab. While
the control surfaces are centered, use a felt-tip pin to place
a mark on the pushrod wires at the location of the hole in
the elevator and rudder servo arms as shown in the above
❍ 2. Place the grommets and brass eyelets on the three
servos using the diagram above and your radio system
instructions as a guide. Place the servos in the servo tray
in the orientation shown in the following photograph.
❍ 3. With your servo arms aligned at 90-degrees to the
servos, position the servos so the holes in the servo arms,
the holes you enlarged, cross the elevator and rudder
pushrods. Carefully mark on the servo tray, the four
locations of each servo for the servo mounting screws. At
these locations drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo
tray. Install the servo mounting screws and then remove
❍ 5. Use pliers to make a 90° bend at the marks on the two
pushrods. Disconnecting the clevises from the elevator and
rudder control horns will make this easier to do. Remove the
servo arms from the servos and run the pushrod through
the throttle servo arm still centered on the servo, tighten the
screw on top of the screw-lock pushrod connector. Using
the above photograph as a reference, cut off the excess
throttle pushrod but leave a minimum of 1/2" (13mm) of
excess rod for adjustments later.
the holes in the servo arms from the bottom of the arms.
Place nylon Faslinks to each pushrod, and then cut the
wires with 1/16" [1.5mm] protruding from the Faslinks.
Reattach the clevises to the control horns and replace the
servo arms on the servos.
❍ 8. Install the battery/receiver mounting plate into the
fuselage using four 3mm x 10mm Phillips head screws as
shown in the above photograph. Note: You may place the
supplied hook and loop material into the battery/receiver
mounting plate prior to mounting the plate into the fuselage.
It is a bit more difficult if you wait to do this when you mount
the receiver and battery. Refer to step #10 for location.
❍ 6. Use a hobby knife with a sharp blade and cut the
steering pushrod guide tube at the location shown in the
above photograph. Do not cut the steering pushrod at this
time. Carefully align the nose wheel as straight as possible.
Align the steering pushrod with the second hole (out from
the center) in the rudder servo arm and place a mark on the
steering pushrod as shown in the above photograph. As you
did with the previous pushrods, make a 90° bend at the
mark, install the servo arm and the Faslink, and cut off the
excess steering pushrod.
❍ 7. Center the throttle servo arm on the throttle servo as
❍ 9. Locate the cutout for the on/off switch on the left side
shown in the above photograph. Remove the throttle servo
arm and install the screw-lock pushrod connector in the last
hole on the servo arm. Slip the throttle pushrod into the
screw-lock pushrod connector and replace the servo arm
onto the servo.
of the fuselage, away from your engine exhaust, and cut the
covering from this cutout. Remove the cover plate from the
radio system on/off switch and use it as a pattern to drill the
two holes on either side of the cutout. This will allow you to
mount the on/off switch by placing the two screws back into
the cover plate and placing them through the fuselage side.
Hold the on/off switch in place and re-insert and tighten the
two screws in the on/off switch.
Before tightening the screw-lock pushrod connector, look
inside the carburetor on the engine and move the throttle
pushrod until the barrel of the carburetor is 1/2 open. With
❍ 12. Make a guide tube support by using the supplied
10mm x 13mm x 87mm balsa material. Place it into the fuse
as shown in the photograph above and mark the locations
of the throttle and steering guide tubes. Cut, sand, or file a
“V” or notch at these locations. Use sandpaper to roughen
the outer surface of the tubes where they meet the guide
tube support.
❍ 10. Connect the aileron extension, servo leads, battery
and switch wires to the receiver as directed by your radio
system instructions. Wrap both the battery pack and
receiver in the supplied protective foam rubber to protect
them from vibration. Secure both the battery pack and
receiver in the model by placing the supplied hook and loop
material through the slots in the battery/receiver mounting
plate and then around the battery and receiver.
Reposition the guide tube support, making sure the tubes rest
in the slots and do not bind or put pressure on the pushrods.
When satisfied with the fit, glue the support into place and glue
the guide tubes to the support using 6-minute epoxy. Be careful
not to get glue in the opening of the guide tube or on the
❍ 1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
❍ 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of
liquid dish soap and warm water–about one teaspoon of soap
per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water
and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the decals
have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,
submersing them in soap & water allows accurate positioning
and reduces air bubbles underneath.
❍ 3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
❍ 4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
❍ 11. Make a strain relief from one of the cut-off servo arms
and install it on the antenna. Route the receiver antenna out
of the fuselage as close to the receiver as you can by
drilling a 5/64" (2mm) hole in the side of the fuselage and
running the antenna through the side of the fuselage.
Connect the antenna to a hook made from another leftover
servo arm that’s connected to a rubber band and a T-pin
inserted into the top of the fin.
Check the Control Directions
❍ 1. Note: Also refer to your instructions provided with your
radio system for the following steps. Turn on the transmitter and
receiver and center the trims on the transmitter.If necessary, remove
the servo arms from the servos and reposition them so they are
centered. Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.
❍ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. Use a straightedge
to help get them set correctly. If necessary, adjust the clevises
on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
Set the Control Throws
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow™ (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have
dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the low rate
❍ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram above.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the
servo reversing switches in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Re-adjust if necessary.
Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevator, rudder and ailerons.
For added safety and convenience, the throttle should be set up
so that the engine can be stopped using the throttle trim. To do
this remove the clevis from the carburetor arm and move the
throttle pushrod so that the carburetor is completely closed with
the throttle stick and trim lever on the transmitter fully
back/down. Next, adjust the clevis so that when the clevis is
connected the carburetor barrel is in the fully closed position.
Then test the trim lever by advancing it to full. This will be a fast
idle position with the carburetor barrel open slightly (about 1/32"
or .8mm).
These are the recommended control surface throws:
Now move the throttle stick forward to full. Make sure that the
carburetor barrel opens all the way. If it doesn’t open far enough
or opens too far (bending the rod) move the pushrod and screwlock pushrod connector in or out on the servo arm and/or the
clevis on the carburetor arm to gain or reduce movement. The
throw will be correct when the carburetor barrel will stop fully
open at the same time the throttle stick reaches full. With the
throttle set up properly, you should be able to run the engine
with the trim lever set midway to the full position (adjusted for a
smooth but slow idle). Then when it is time to stop the engine,
simply pull back the trim to close the carburetor and the engine
will stop running.
High Rate
Low Rate
5/8" [16mm] up
5/8" [16mm] down
1/2" [13mm] up
1/2" [13mm] down
3/4" [19mm] left
3/4" [19mm] right
5/8" [16mm] left
5/8" [16mm] right
5/8" [16mm] up
5/8" [16mm] down
1/2" [13mm] up
1/2" [13mm] down
IMPORTANT: The Tower Trainer 60 MKII ARF has been
extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which
it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will provide
you with the greatest chance for successful first flights. If,
after you have become accustomed to the way the Tower
Trainer 60 MKII ARF flies, you would like to change the
throws to suit your taste, that is fine. However, too much
control throw could make the model difficult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
model on a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it at the balance
point you marked.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity or,
balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model
flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will
be successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.
❍ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must be
added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the model is
“nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver must be
shifted to the rear or weight must be added to the tail to balance.
If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver to minimize or
eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional weight is
required, nose weight may be easily added by using a “spinner
weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for the
2 oz. weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough,
use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to
add stick-on nose weight is to the firewall. Begin by placing
incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the fuselage
over the firewall until the model balances. Once you have
determined the amount of weight required, it can be
permanently attached. If required, tail weight may be added by
cutting open the bottom of the fuselage and gluing it
permanently inside.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition with
all of the systems in place including the engine, landing gear,
and the radio system.
❍ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8"-wide tape to accurately mark the
C.G. on the bottom of the wing on both sides of the fuselage.
The C.G. is located 3-3/4" [95mm] back from the leading edge
of the wing.
This is where your model should balance for your first flights.
Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the C.G. up to
1/4 " [6mm] forward or 1/4 " [6mm] back to change the flying
characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward may improve the
smoothness and stability, but it may then require more speed
for takeoff and make it more difficult to slow for landing.
Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable,
but could also cause it to become too difficult for you to
control. In any case, start at the location we recommend and
do not at any time balance your model outside the
recommended range.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the weight
to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to
permanently hold the weight in place.
❍ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed. Also, if you
found it necessary to move any radio components, make sure
it is securely re-installed inside the fuselage.
Balance the Model Laterally
❍ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuselage under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
❍ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding the
necessary amount of stick-on weight to the other wing tip. An
airplane that has been laterally balanced will track better in
loops and other maneuvers.
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you
fly somewhere on your own, you should always have your
name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or
inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites
and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag
at the center section of this manual and place it on or inside
your model.
Charge the Batteries
❍ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place the
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries.You should always
running at various speeds with an assistant holding the model,
using hand signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct
the problem first. Look for loose servo connections or broken
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder
joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before
you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio
Note: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack is
highly recommended. All battery packs, whether it’s a trusty
pack you’ve just taken out of another model, or a new battery
pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting the
discharge capacity. Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can be
identified (and a valuable model saved!) by comparing its actual
capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to the instructions and
recommendations that come with your cycler. If you don’t own
a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend cycle your pack
and note the capacity for you.
Balance the Propellers
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke near
the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust gives off
a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore, do not run
the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most significant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only will
engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery.Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam,
which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run
the engine.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as pencils
or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into
the prop.
Ground Check
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confirm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to
full power and maintains full power–indefinitely. After you run
the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to make
sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop
is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine. Do
not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the glow
plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or
otherwise get into the running propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
Range Check
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will
not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
Refer to your radio system’s manual and ground check the
operational range of your radio before the first flight of the day.
With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and
transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away
from the model and still have control. Have an assistant stand
by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what
the control surfaces are doing. Repeat this test with the engine
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the
fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s recommendations.
Do not use hands, fingers or any other body part to try to stop
the engine. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a
running engine.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
❍ 4.
Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
❍ 5.
❍ 6.
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows,
or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be
airworthy by having been previously successfully flight-tested.
❍ 7.
❍ 8.
❍ 9.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400
feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport
operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer
shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in
the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
❍ 10.
❍ 11.
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
❍ 12.
4. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and
address or AMA number, on or in the model.
❍ 13.
5. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that
explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
❍ 14.
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
❍ 15.
❍ 16.
❍ 17.
❍ 18.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
❍ 19.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or
spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator
areas, unless beyond my control.
❍ 20.
❍ 21.
4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
You have put a lot of effort into assembling your model and it
looks great! Protect your investment by following a few
simple tips:
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed.
❍ 1.
❍ 2.
❍ 3.
Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the
solder joint inside the receiver.
Balance your model laterally as explained in the
Use thread locking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the screws that hold the wheel
collars to the axles, screws that hold the carburetor arm
(if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
appropriate (servo mounting screws, etc.).
Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
Secure connections between servo wires or servo
extensions, and the connection between your battery
pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink
tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or
J.B. Weld.
Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are not kinked.
Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
number on or inside your model.
Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
1. If possible, have an experienced modeler look over your work
before you head out to your flying field. It’s easier to fix problems
in the workshop instead of on the flight line. It is also highly
recommended to obtain help from an experienced modeler to
act as a flight instructor. It is possible to teach yourself to fly a
radio controlled model, but you will have a much more pleasant
experience and incur a lot less damage to your first model with
the help of a qualified flight instructor.
Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust residue
such as the wing saddle area, etc.
Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuselage. Simply stuffing them into
place with foam rubber is not sufficient.
2. Become familiar with starting your engine, and break it in
before your first flight. Be sure the engine will stop when the trim
lever is pulled all the way back.
3. Assemble a simple flight kit which should include a starting
battery and a glow-plug clip (or ni-starter), “chicken stick” for
flipping the prop, fuel and a means of filling the tank, a couple
of small screwdrivers, #64 rubber bands, spare prop and glow
plug, 6" adjustable wrench, and a pair of needle nose pliers. In
addition to tools, you should also take along some paper towels
and spray window cleaner to remove fuel residue after each flight.
right turn. The plane does move off to your left from your
vantage point, but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit you
would realize the plane turned to the right as commanded. All it
takes is a little practice to maintain proper orientation of your
aircraft, but that’s why we recommend finding an instructor.
4. When you load up to go to the flying field be sure that the
batteries have charged for at least 14 hours, and that you have
your fuselage, wing, transmitter and flight box. And, most
important, you have your AMA license.
When you feel comfortable, advance the throttle a little while
standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff roll, but pull
back on the power before the model lifts off. Try this several
times, adding a little more power each time. Use the rudder stick
on your transmitter to steer the plane with the nose wheel while
on the ground. If the plane starts to veer off, immediately cut the
power to prevent a mishap.
5. Range check the radio! See the manufacturer’s instructions
included with your radio system.
Using Rubber Bands
Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly, we
strongly recommend that you find an instructor to help get you
started. Although trainers offer the greatest opportunity of
success for the self-taught, there is a high probability that you
will crash your airplane on the first flight. Protect your
investment of time and money–obtain the assistance of an
experienced R/C pilot.
Mount the wing to the fuselage with the 12 supplied rubber
bands. Install them from front to back, crisscrossing the last two.
Never use torn, cracked or oily rubber bands. After removing
the rubber bands from your model, store them in a container
with talcum powder or clay-type kitty litter to absorb oil and keep
them fresh for the next flying session.
If the rubber bands you will be using are different from those
recommended, consult an experienced modeler to make
certain they are strong enough, and that you have used enough
of them. If uncertain, force the front of the wing off of the wing
saddle. There should be considerable resistance! If the wing
can be forced from the fuselage without having to strain your
hands, then there are probably not enough rubber bands.
Your first flight should be made in little or no wind. If you have
dual rates on your transmitter, set the switches to “low rate” for
takeoff. Taxi into position, pointing directly into the wind.
Although this model has good low speed characteristics, you
should always gain as much speed as your runway will permit
before lifting off, as this will give you a safety margin in case of
a “flame-out.” Advance the throttle smoothly to the wide-open
setting. When the plane has sufficient flying speed (you won’t
know until you try), lift off by smoothly applying a little up
elevator (don’t force it off into a steep climb!), and climb out
gradually, trying to keep it straight and the wings level. Climb to
about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle turn by moving the
aileron stick. Apply a little more back pressure on the elevator
stick as the model turns. Stop the turn by moving the aileron
stick in the opposite direction until the wings are level, then
return the stick to the neutral position. Pull the power back to 1/2
IMPORTANT!!! Flying a model with too few rubber
bands can be dangerous. If the wing momentarily lifts
from the fuselage and acts as though a large amount of
“up” elevator has suddenly been applied because there
are not enough rubber bands or they are too weak,
internal structural damage may result. Even worse, the
wing could actually detach from the fuselage resulting
in a crash. If the model exhibits any tendencies that
indicate there are not enough rubber bands,
immediately reduce power, land and closely inspect the
model for damage. If no damage is found, add more
rubber bands.
We recommend that you take it easy with your model for the
first several flights and gradually “get acquainted” with the plane
as your engine becomes fully broken-in. Trainers are designed
to fly level with neutral elevator trim at approximately 1/3 - 1/2
throttle – this is the best speed for learning to fly. On later flights,
if you want your model to maintain level flight at full throttle, you
will need to give it a little down trim.
Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow, steady idle.
Have your instructor or a helper hold the plane while you work
the controls. Upon release of the plane, advance the throttle
slightly to start rolling, and then back off the power to prevent
going too fast and possibly taking off. Stand behind the plane as
it taxies away from you and note the direction it turns as you
move the rudder control. One thing to keep in mind with R/C
models (whether it be cars, boats, or planes) is that the steering
controls may seem to “reverse” when the model is moving
toward you. For example, if you are flying toward yourself, and
you give a right control input (ailerons or rudder), the model will
move off to your left.The fact of the matter is, of course, that the
controls are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter a
Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level flight
with gentle turns to keep the model over the field. These flights
will give you practice at coordinating your control inputs and
maintaining the proper orientation of the airplane. As mentioned
earlier, turns are accomplished by banking the aircraft with the
ailerons, then gently adding some back stick (up elevator).
Enough back stick should be held in to keep the aircraft at a
constant altitude. To stop turning, apply opposite aileron to level
the wings, then release the stick. There is a memory aid that
may help keep you out of trouble when the plane is flying toward
you – “put the stick under the low wing.” In other words, move
the aileron stick in the direction of the low wing to raise that
wing. When you are comfortable flying the aircraft, you can
practice using the rudder along with the ailerons to “coordinate”
the turns – usually, a small amount of rudder applied in the
direction of the turn will keep the tail following in the exact same
track as the nose.
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a lowpitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface flutter.
Because flutter can quickly destroy components of your
airplane, any time you detect flutter you must immediately
cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo
grommets for deterioration (this may indicate which surface
fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are secure
and free of play. If the control surface fluttered once, it
probably will flutter again under similar circumstances unless
you can eliminate the free-play or flexing in the linkages.
Here are some things which can cause flutter: Excessive
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of
clevis pin in horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused
by tight bends; Excessive play or backlash in servo gears;
and Insecure servo mounting.
The most common mistake when learning to fly is “over control.”
Think of pressure instead of large movements of the control
sticks. Remember, most trainers will recover from almost any
over control situation (given enough altitude) if you simply let go
of the sticks.
Add and practice one maneuver at a time, learning how your
model behaves in each one. For ultra-smooth flying and normal
maneuvers, we recommend using the “low-rate” settings. High
rate control throws will give your model enough control for
loops, barrel rolls, and many other basic aerobatic maneuvers.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe
Adverse Yaw - The tendency of an airplane to yaw in the
opposite direction of the roll. For instance, when right
aileron is applied, the airplane yaws to the left, thus
opposing the turn. Adverse yaw is common in trainer type
airplanes having flat bottom wings. It is most noticeable at
slow speeds and high angles of attack, such as during
takeoffs and when stretching a landing approach. Caused
by the unequal drag of the upward and downward deflection
of the ailerons, this undesirable trait can be minimized by
setting up the ailerons with Differential Throw or by
coordinating the turns, using the aileron and rudder controls
simultaneously. (See Differential Throw.)
When it’s time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach as follows: Reduce the power to about 1/4 throttle and
fly a downwind leg far enough out from the runway to allow you
to make a gentle 180° turn. As you make the turn into the wind
for your final approach, pull the throttle back to idle. Most trainer
planes have a lot of lift, so you will need a slow, reliable idle in
order to achieve a nice, slow landing. Allow the plane to keep
descending on a gradual glide slope until you are about 3 feet
off the runway. Gradually apply a little up elevator to flare for
landing. You should apply just enough up elevator to hold the
plane just off the runway while the excess speed bleeds off.The
model should settle onto the runway for a slow, slightly nosehigh landing.
Ailerons - Hinged control surfaces located on the trailing
edge of the wing, one on each side, which provide control of
the airplane about the roll axis. The control direction is often
confusing to first time modelers. For a right roll or turn, the
right hand aileron is moved upward and the left hand aileron
downward, and vice versa for a left roll or turn.
After you have several flights on your model, it’s time to reward
yourself with your first aerobatic maneuver – a loop. Climb to a
safe altitude and turn into the wind. Apply full throttle, level the
wings, then slowly pull back on the elevator stick to about 1/2 to
3/4 up elevator (depending on your throws), and hold this
control input. After you go over the top and start down the
backside of the loop, pull the throttle back to about half. This will
keep the stresses on the airplane low and the airspeed
relatively constant. Keep holding “up” elevator until the plane is
level, and then slowly release the stick. You’re done! It’s really
that easy!
Angle of Attack - The angle that the wing penetrates the
air. As the angle of attack increases so does lift and drag, up
to a point.
ARF - A prefabricated model - Almost Ready to Fly.
Buddy Box - Two similar transmitters that are wired
together with a “trainer cord.” This is most useful when
learning to fly — it’s the same as having dual controls. The
instructor can take control by using the “trainer switch” on
his transmitter.
The fuel mixture should be richened so the engine runs at
about 200 rpm below peak speed. By running the engine
slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick landings caused by
overheating and will keep your engine lubricated well during the
break-in period.
CA (Abbreviation for “Cyanoacrylate”) - An instant type glue
that is available in various viscosities (Thin, Medium, Thick,
and Gel). These glues are ideal for the assembly of wood
the airplane about the pitch axis and causes the airplane to
climb or dive. The correct direction of control is to pull the
transmitter elevator control stick back, toward the bottom of
the transmitter, to move the elevator upward, which causes
the airplane to climb, and vice versa to dive.
airplanes and other materials. Note: Most CA glues will
attack Styrofoam.
Carburetor - The part of the engine which controls the
speed or throttle setting and lean/rich mixture via setting of
the needle valve.
Epoxy - A two-part resin/hardener glue that is extremely
strong. It is generally available in 6 and 30-minute formulas.
Used for critical points in the aircraft where high strength
is necessary.
CG (“Center of Gravity”) - For modeling purposes, this is
usually considered – the point at which the airplane
balances fore to aft. This point is critical in regards to how
the airplane reacts in the air. A tail-heavy plane will be very
snappy but generally very unstable and susceptible to more
frequent stalls. If the airplane is nose heavy, it will tend to
track better and be less sensitive to control inputs, but, will
generally drop its nose when the throttle is reduced to idle.
This makes the plane more difficult to land since it takes
more effort to hold the nose up. A nose heavy airplane will
have to come in faster to land safely.
Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV) - Device used to read
the battery voltage of the on-board battery pack or
transmitter battery pack.
Field Charger - A fast battery charger designed to work
from a 12-volt power source, such as a car battery.
Charge Jack - The plug receptacle of the switch harness
into which the charger is plugged to charge the airborne
battery. An expanded scale voltmeter (ESV) can also be
plugged into it to check battery voltage between flights. It is
advisable to mount the charge jack in an accessible area of
the fuselage so an ESV can be used without removing the wing.
Flaps - Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge of
the wing inboard of the ailerons. The flaps are lowered to
produce more aerodynamic lift from the wing, allowing a
slower takeoff and landing speed. Flaps are often found on
scale models, but usually not on basic trainers.
Charger - Device used to recharge batteries and usually
supplied with the radio if NiCd batteries are included.
Flare - The point during the landing approach in which the
pilot gives an increased amount of up elevator to smooth the
touchdown of the airplane.
Chicken Stick - A hand-held stick used to “flip start” a
model airplane engine.
Flight Box - A special box used to hold and transport all
equipment used at the flying field.
Clunk - A weighted fuel pick-up used in a fuel tank to assure
the intake line is always in fuel.
Flight Pack (or Airborne pack) - All of the radio equipment
installed in the airplane, i.e., Receiver, Servos, Battery,
Switch Harness.
Dead Stick - A term used to describe unpowered flight
(glide) when the engine quits running.
Flutter - A phenomenon whereby the elevator or aileron
control surface begins to oscillate violently in flight. This can
sometimes cause the surface to break away from the
aircraft and cause a crash. There are many reasons for this,
but the most common are excessive hinge gap or excessive
“slop” in the pushrod connections and control horns. If you
ever hear a low-pitched buzzing sound, reduce throttle and
land immediately.
Differential Throw - Ailerons that are set up to deflect more
in the upward direction than downward are said to have
Differential Throw. The purpose is to counteract Adverse Yaw.
Dihedral - The V-shaped bend in the wing. Typically, more
dihedral causes more aerodynamic stability in an airplane,
and causes the rudder to control both the roll and yaw axis.
This is why some trainers and sailplanes require only 3
channels of radio control–i.e., having no ailerons.
Frequency Control - The FCC has allowed the 72MHz
band to be used for R/C aircraft operations. This band is
divided up into many different channels in which you can
choose a radio system. You should be aware that certain
areas have frequencies in which there is pager interference.
This is why it is always a wise move to check with your local
hobby shop to find out any channels that may be
troublesome in the area you wish to fly.
Ding - Minor dent or damage to the structure. Also, a nick in
a prop. Dinged props must be replaced.
Down Thrust - Downward angle of the engine relative to the
centerline of the airplane. Down thrust helps overcome the
normal climbing tendency of flat bottom wings.
Electric Starter - A hand-held electric motor used for
starting a model airplane engine. Usually powered by a 12-volt
Fuel Overflow Line (Vent) - The fuel line is either open to
atmospheric pressure or attaches to the muffler pressure
nipple to pressurize the fuel tank for better fuel flow to the
engine. This is the line through which the fuel will overflow
when the tank is full.
Elevator - Hinged control surface located at the trailing
edge of the horizontal stabilizer, which provides control of
Fuel Pick Up-Line - The fuel line in the fuel tank through
which fuel travels to the carburetor. Typically a flexible tube
with a weight or “Clunk” on the end which allows it to follow
the fuel with changes in aircraft attitude. This is the line
through which the tank is filled.
NiCd - Nickel Cadmium battery. Rechargeable batteries which
are typically used as power for radio transmitters and receivers.
Nitro - Nitromethane, a fuel additive which increases a
model engine’s ability to idle low and improves high speed
performance. Ideal nitro content varies from engine to
engine. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for
best results. Nitro content in fuel is indicated by the percent
of the fuel.
Fuselage - The body of an airplane.
Glitch - Momentary radio problem that never happens
unless you are over trees or a swamp.
Glow Plug - The heat source for igniting the fuel/air mixture
in the engine. When starting the engine a battery is used to
heat the filament. After the engine is running, the battery
can be removed. The wire filament inside the plug is kept hot
by the “explosions” in the engine’s cylinder. (See next
heading and “Idle Bar” Plug.)
Ni-Starter - A self-contained battery and glow plug clip,
used when starting the engine. (See Glow Plug Clip.)
Pitch Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the elevator.
Pitch is illustrated by holding the airplane at each wing tip.
Raising or lowering the nose is the pitch movement. This is
how the climb or dive is controlled.
Glow Plug Clip/Battery - A 1.2-volt battery, which is connected
to the glow plug on a model airplane engine for starting. The
battery is removed once the engine is running steadily.
Prop Pitch - Props are designated by these two numbers,
for instance 10 - 6. The first number is the prop’s length, 10".
The second number is the pitch or angle of the blades. The
6 represents the distance the propeller will move forward in
one revolution, in this case 6".
Grease-In - A very smooth, gentle landing without a hint of
a bounce.
Hit (or to be hit) - Sudden radio interference which causes
your model to fly in an erratic manner. Most often caused by
someone turning on a radio that is on your frequency, but
can be caused by other radio sources miles away.
Receiver (Rx) - The radio unit in the airplane which receives
the transmitter signal and relays the control to the servos.
This is somewhat similar to the radio you may have in your
family automobile, except the radio in the airplane perceives
commands from the transmitter, while the radio in your car
perceives music from the radio station.
Horizontal Stabilizer - The horizontal tail surface at the
back of the fuselage which provides aerodynamic pitch
stability to the airplane.
Roll Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the ailerons. Roll
is illustrated by holding the airplane by the nose and tail.
Dropping either wing tip is the roll movement. This is used to
bank or turn the airplane. Many aircraft are not equipped
with ailerons and the Roll and Yaw motions are controlled by
the rudder. This is one reason why most trainer aircraft have
a larger amount of dihedral.
Idle Bar Plug - This type of glow plug has a “bar” across the
tip to help prevent raw fuel from being splashed onto the
glow element. Too much raw fuel will cool the plug and
prevent it from igniting the fuel/air mixture. An idle bar is a
help in obtaining a low idle speed.
Lateral Balance - The left-right or side-to-side balance of
an airplane. An airplane that is laterally balanced will track
better through loops and other maneuvers.
Rudder - Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge
of the vertical stabilizer, which provides control of the
airplane about the Yaw axis and causes the airplane to Yaw
left or right. Left rudder movement causes the airplane to
Yaw left, and right rudder movement causes it to Yaw right.
Leading Edge (LE) - The very front edge of the wing or
stabilizer. This is the edge that hits the air first.
Muffler - A device attached to the exhaust stack of the
engine to reduce noise and increase back pressure which
helps low speed performance. Note: Most R/C Clubs
require the use of mufflers.
Servo - The electro-mechanical device which moves the
control surfaces or throttle of the airplane according to
commands from the receiver. The radio device which does
the physical work inside the airplane.
Muffler Baffle - A restrictor plate inside the muffler which
reduces engine noise. This plate can be removed to
increase power, but only if there are no noise restrictions
where you fly.
Servo Output Arm - The removable arm or wheel which bolts
to the output shaft of a servo and connects to the pushrod.
Shot Down - A “hit” that results in a crash landing.
Sometimes caused by radios miles away.
Needle Valve - Adjustment on a carburetor used to set proper
fuel/air mixture. Some carburetors have separate needle
adjustments for low and high throttle. Typically, turning the
needle clockwise (threading in) leans the mixture (less fuel), and
vice versa. However, there are a few exceptions—refer to the
engine manufacturer’s instructions.
Slop - Unwanted, excessive free movement in a control
system. Often caused by a hole in a servo arm or control
horn that is too big for the pushrod wire or clevis pin. This
condition allows the control surface to move without
transmitter stick movement. (See Flutter.)
Solo - Your first totally unassisted flight that results in a
controlled landing.
the wing to keep it flying. Gliders and trainer airplanes fall
into this category because slow, efficient flight is desirable.
Spinner - The nose cone, which covers the propeller hub.
Wing Root - The centerline of the wing, where the left and
right wing panels are joined.
Sport Airplane - A model which possesses some attributes
of many of the specialty airplanes and are best for general
flying as they are the most versatile and durable.
Stall - What happens when the angle of attack is too great
to generate lift regardless of airspeed. (Every airfoil has an
angle of attack at which it generates maximum lift — the
airfoil will stall beyond this angle).
Tachometer - An optical sensor designed specifically to
count light impulses through a turning propeller and read
out the engine RPM.
Tip Stall - The outboard end of one wing (the tip) stops
developing lift, causing the plane to roll suddenly in the
direction of the stalled wing. This situation is not fun when
you are only a few feet off the runway trying to land.
Trainer Airplane - A model designed to be inherently stable
and fly at low speeds, to give first-time modelers time to
think and react as they learn to fly.
Trailing Edge (TE) - The rearmost edge of the wing or stabilizer.
Transmitter (Tx) - The hand-held radio controller. This is the
unit that sends out the commands that you input.
Touch-And-Go - Landing and taking off without a pause.
Often confused with a good bounce.
Vertical Fin - The non-moving surface that is perpendicular
to the horizontal stabilizer and provides yaw stability. This is
the surface to which the rudder attaches.
Washout - An intentional twist in the wing, causing the wing
tips to have a lower angle of attack than the wing root. In
other words, the trailing edge is higher than the leading
edge at the wing tips. Washout helps prevent tip stalls.
Wheel Collar - A small, round retaining device used to keep
wheels from sliding off an axle.
Wing - The main lifting surface of an airplane.
Wing Loading - This is the amount of weight per square
foot that has to be overcome to provide lift. It is normally
expressed in ounces per square foot. This specification can
be easily calculated as follows: If you know the square
inches of the wing, simply divide by 144 to obtain square
feet. Divide the total weight (in ounces) of the airplane by the
wing area (in square feet). This information is valuable when
deciding on which airplane to build next. Planes with high
wing loading numbers must fly faster to stay in the air. These
are generally “performance” airplanes. Conversely, planes
with lower numbers do not need as much air flowing around
Yaw Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the rudder. Yaw
is illustrated by hanging the airplane level by a wire located
at the center of gravity. Left or right movement of the nose is
the Yaw movement.
Z-Bend - A simple Z-shaped bend in the wire end of a
pushrod, which is used to attach the pushrod to a servo
output arm.
Fill out the ID tag below and tape it in your model.
We have included a spare tag.
Before assembly match the parts in the photo with the parts in the kit. Check off each part as it is located.
If any parts are missing or damaged, consult Tower Hobbies Order Assistance (see phone numbers listed on front page).
Note: All parts are one per kit unless otherwise stated.
Parts List
❍ 1.
❍ 2.
❍ 3.
❍ 4.
❍ 5.
❍ 6.
❍ 7.
❍ 8.
❍ 9.
❍ 10.
❍ 11.
❍ 12.
❍ 13.
❍ 14.
❍ 15.
❍ 16.
Right Wing Panel w/Aileron
Fuel Tank
Nose Landing Gear
Main Landing Gear (2 pcs.)
Wing Joiners
Wheels (3)
Aileron Servo Tray
Wing Dowels (2 pcs.)
Molded Wing Dowel Covers (4 pcs.)
Hardware Bag
Plastic Parts Bag
Hook and Loop Material
Left Wing Panel w/Aileron
Hardware and Plastic Bag Contents
❍ (12) Rubber Bands
❍ (2) Aileron Servo Tray Mounting Blocks
❍ (1) Receiver/Battery Tray
❍ (2) Aileron Pushrods
❍ (2) Pushrods for Elevator and Rudder
❍ (1) Pushrod for Nose Wheel Steering
❍ (1) Pushrod for Throttle
❍ (2) Outer Plastic Tubes for Throttle/Steering Pushrods
❍ (2) Protective Foam for Receiver and Battery
❍ (1) Engine Mount, .60-Size
❍ (2) Landing Gear Straps
❍ (4) 4mm x 25mm Screws
❍ (8) Lock Washers
❍ (4) 4mm Nuts
❍ (4) 4mm x 20mm Screws
❍ (2) 4mm x 12mm Screws
❍ (2) 4mm Flat Washers
❍ (4) 4mm Wheel Collars for Nose Wheel, Steering Arm,
and Nose Gear
Ordering Replacement Parts
(4) 5mm Wheel Collars for Main Wheels
(7) 3mm x 5mm Screws
(1) 3mm x 8mm Screw
(2 sets) Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors
(4) 3mm x 10mm Screws
(8) 2.6mm x 8mm Screws
(4) 2mm x 14mm Screws
(1) Nose Wheel Steering Arm
(1) Nose Wheel Bearing Block
(14) CA Hinges
(2 sets) Control Horns
(5) Clevises
(4) Nylon Faslink Keepers
(5) Silicone Clevis Keepers
(2) Engine Mounting Straps
(2) Nylon Aileron Torque Rod Control Horns
(1) Spinner
(1) Fuel Tubing, 305mm long
Replacement parts are available from Tower Hobbies for
your Tower Trainer 60 MKII ARF. Our order assistance
representatives are ready to answer your questions or to
place your order. Call us at (800) 637-6050 or e-mail us at:
[email protected]
Replacement Parts
Order Number
TOWA2065 ..................Wing Set
TOWA2066 ..................Fuselage Set
TOWA2067 ..................Tail Surface Set
TOWA2068 ..................Landing Gear
Tower Hobbies® 4-TH 4-Channel FM (TOWJ41**)
Hobbico® DC Quick Field Charger (HCAM3000)
Fast-charge radio batteries anywhere.
Recharge 9.6V transmitter and 4.8V or 6.0V receiver batteries right on the spot,
using any 12V DC input. Advanced Delta peak sensing technology
automatically switches to trickle once batteries are fully charged. Unique
voltage boost circuitry peaks transmitter NiCds even in diode-equipped
radios. Includes 2.5A fuse, alligator clips on a 14" input cord and banana
plugs. 2-year warranty. Connectors required.
Tower Hobbies® TS-53 Standard Servo (TOWM4525)
Cutting-edge quality for precision and power.
Torque: 42 oz-in
Weight: 1.5 oz
Speed: .22 sec @ 60°
Dimensions: 0.77”x1.59”x1.41”
System 3000 TS-53 Servos offer exceptional strength and dependability. Vibrationresistant Surface Mount Technology keeps them operating perfectly in the thick of
action. They also feature impact-resistant, fuelproof cases — and universal
connectors, compatible with Futaba® , JR® , Hitec® and all “Z” connector-equipped
Airtronics systems, as well as all Tower systems. Includes ball bearings, complete
mounting hardware, and warranty protection for one year.
With the 4-channel 4-TH, you’ll take advantage of today’s best FM technology.
The 4-TH is all-NiCd, with all-channel servo reversing, mechanical trims for all
four channels, Futaba® -compatible J plugs and a retractable, removable
antenna. Gimbal stick length is adjustable and all controls are in easy reach.
The built-in trainer system is compatible with most FM radios. Requires
servos. Backed by a generous 1-year warranty. 72MHz.
Tower Hobbies® .61 ABC RC Engine (TOWG0161)
Weight (w/muffler): 23.8 oz
Practical RPM Range: 2,000-17,000
BHP @ RPM: 1.9 @ 16,000
Tower’s .61 ABC engine is perfectly suited for the Tower Trainer .60 MKII,
offering power, economy, easy operation, and the reliability you need for
trouble-free flying. Features include CNC-manufactured parts, true ABC
piston/liner, Schnuerle porting, remote-mounted needle valve, muffler with
pressure tap and rotatable exhaust outlet. Requires glow plug and prop. 2 year
warranty plus postage-free parts support.
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