Solarspot Daylighting Systems installation guide Please read this guide before

Solarspot Daylighting Systems installation guide Please read this guide before
Solarspot® Daylighting Systems
installation guide
Please read this guide before
commencing work on your
installation.
Solarspot top tube with
RIR light funnel and
Convas lens.
The enclosed information is intended as a guide to
installing a Solarspot® tubular daylight system.
Before starting any installation work make sure that
you have read and fully understood the installation
guide. Ensure that your work area is clear of
obstructions and you have taken all necessary safety
precautions. Please read the enclosed safety guide
before continuing.
Also, ensure that you have checked the distance
between joist and rafters to determine that the
system you have purchased will fit through the
spaces available.
Solarspot D-25 requires
a joist gap of 250mm
and the D-38 requires
375mm.
Suggested order of
installation
Leak-proof onepiece flashing.
•Locate the position and
install the ceiling tube.
•Determine the best route
through the loft and fit the
flashing.
•Install the tube extensions
and adjustable angles.
•Finally, fit the diffuser.
The ideal situation is to have the shortest tube
possible. The best angle is normally around 20° off
vertical. The exception to this would be if the
‘shortest’ point on the roof was in shade and a
brighter location existed that could be easily reached
by installing a longer tube extension.
If, having read the installation guide, you’d feel
happier getting the system fitted by a professional
installer, our team of independent installers are on
hand to do the job for you.
For advice, or to contact your nearest installer you can
call us on 01908 299117.
Lines are open Mon – Fri 9.00am to 5.00pm
99.7%
reflective
Vegalux angled
and straight
extensions.
Ceiling tube
with
Solarspot
Perlato
diffuser.
Before starting installation work make sure that you have read and understood the installation instructions.
Ensure that your work area is clear of obstructions and you have taken all necessary safety precautions.
Installing the diffuser – plasterboard
ceilings.
To fix the ceiling tube in place you will need three small blocks
of wood roughly 80 x 45 x 25mm (not supplied). A spare piece
of roof batten is perfect for this.
First decide the position of the diffuser in the ceiling. Where
possible, always try to locate the diffuser in the centre of the
room. Before making any cuts into the ceiling, check that
there are no cables, pipes, joists or other obstructions in the
way. Check from inside the roof void or loft that there is
sufficient space for your Solarspot system to fit where you
want it.
Prise off the diffuser using your fingers
Now remove the diffusing lens from the white ceiling ring on
the bottom of the Solarspot – the lens will ease out with just
finger pressure.
From below, drill a small hole in the ceiling at the centre where
you want the diffuser to be and push a ‘marker’ into the hole
so that you can locate the desired point from above. Now draw
a circle using the diffuser as a template and confirm that you
are happy with the location before cutting the hole.
Draw a circle on the ceiling to confirm
the position before cutting the hole
Drill a hole on the line to be cut and then use a plaster board
or pad saw to cut around the line. Now insert the bottom tube
into position from below and mark the three fixing holes with a
pencil. With the bottom tube removed fix each block into
position on top of the plaster board (loft side). Do this by
holding the wooden block in position and then by driving a
screw through from below. You can now re-insert the bottom
tube into the ceiling, pilot drill the blocks and screw it into
place.
Safety warning: Protect your eyes from plaster dust when
cutting the ceiling aperture!
It’s easier to cut the ceiling from above
Installer tip - Drill a hole in the ceiling so that you can locate
the position in the loft. You can then draw around the
diffuser from inside the loft space and cut from above to
avoid falling plaster dust.
Do not re-fit the diffuser or remove protect film at this point
You are now ready to check the position of the tubes through
the roof void and select the best location for the roof flashing.
Which screws to use:
Use three of the 40mm silver screw to fix the
wooden blocks in place and the other three
silver screws to secure the diffuser.
2
Use three wooden blocks to fix the
screws into for the diffuser ring.
Ensure that your work area is clear of obstructions
and you have taken all necessary safety precautions –
particularly when working at height.
Installing the flashing –
profiled interlocking tiles.
To locate the position in the roof roughly assemble
the extension tubes and angles (page 6) to ensure
that you are fitting the flashing in the correct location.
Having decided
on the position
of the flashing,
push a wire
through the felt
from inside the
loft under the
tile so that you
can identify the
point on the roof
from outside.
Next cut away the roofing felt with a sharp knife.
Next go on to
the roof and
remove a few
tiles so that you can identify the roof entry point.
Now offer the flashing into place so that you can
mark the position of any tile battens that need to
be cut away.
Now offer up the flashing into position and screw
into place using appropriate fixings. Ideally, the
bottom of the flashing should line up with the
bottom of a run of tiles. (Shown above).
Note: If you cannot align the system so that the
flashing can rest on a run of tiles, fix a piece of
timber behind the bottom of the flashing so it it is
at the same height as the tiles below.
Carefully remove any obstructing battens with an
appropriate saw.
With the flashing screwed into place, insert the
top tube and check the alignment before
continuing. If the internal tubes do not line up as
required, the flashing should be adjusted
accordingly.
Which screws to use:
Use the four long grey ‘flat-head’ screws to
hold the flashing in place against the roof
battens.
3
Before starting the next stage, ensure that the tiles
at the bottom of the flashing are clean and free
from loose dirt or grit.
Now that you have fixed the flashing fully into
place it is time to replace the tiles on to your roof.
Please note; it may be necessary to remove some
of the fixing lugs from behind the tiles or cut some
of the tiles to ensure a good fit around the
flashing. Make sure that the tiles around the back
of the dome have a 25mm clearance and are not
resting against the dome or assembly ring when
slid back into position.
Now peel the backing from the adhesive on the
back of the weathering strip attached to the
bottom of the flashing. Starting from the centre,
use your hands to firm the weathering strip into
the profile of the tiles. Apply pressure to the lower
portion of the weathering strip only - ensure that the
self-adhesive weathering strip is pressed firmly
into place .
Installer tip: use a wallpaper seam roller to ensure
that the leading edge of the self-adhesive strip is
firmly in position.
Safety note: Never cut tiles with an angle grinder
when working on the roof. Always take tiles to a
safe working area before using potentially
dangerous power tools.
You can now insert the top tube into the flashing.
With the RIR Light Funnel facing south, drill three
small pilot holes in the grey metal assembly ring
and use the supplied screws to fix the dome in
place using a screw driver.
For interlocking tiles the flashing has a foam strip
around the top and sides. If the foam prevents the
tiles from laying as they should, it can be cut down
using sharp scissors.
Which screws to use:
Use the three shorter grey ‘flat-head’
screws to hold the dome in place in the
top of the flashing
With the flashing in place, temporarily insert the
top tube into the top and check that the system
will line up as required before continuing.
4
Installer tip:
if your roof has particularly deep profiles on the
tiles and the edge of the flashing is preventing the
tiles from sitting down properly then it is possible
to mould the flashing corners using a hot-air heatgun.
The example on the right shows how the flashing
has been moulded on both lower corners to allow
the for the roof tiles to sit in position.
With the flashing screwed into its permanent
position, gently heat the corners using a heat gun
and, using a gloved hand, press and hold the
corner of the flashing in position until it cools.
DO NOT OVERHEAT THE FLASHING
Caution; always wear heavy duty gloves and avoid
over heating the flashing. If in doubt, consult the
Solarspot technical department.
Orientating the RIR light funnel
Before screwing the the top tube dome assembly
into place, ensure that the ‘open’ side of the RIR
reflector is facing towards the south - use a
compass to determine the direction (see
illustration on the right).
For wall-mounted installations face the RIR
directly upwards.
IMPORTANT – Remove the protective film
inside the top tube before fixing into the
flashing.
NEVER leave the film in place as exposure
to the sun will permanently bond it in place.
Installing the flashing – Slate
and slate style tiles
Follow the same basic procedure as outlined for
interlocking tiles. When reinstating the tiles, fix the
‘half-slates’ down either side of the flashing using
screws or nails. It is also recommended that you
use an appropriate sealant (not supplied) to secure
the surrounding slates.
Now fit the top tube and secure in place. Drill a
small pilot hole in the metal assembly ring (use the
dome screws as a guide) and fix in place using the
screws provided. Don’t forget to face the RIR
‘light funnel’ to the south.
5
Installing the extension tubes.
With the ceiling diffuser and top tube installed in the roof flashing,
you can now fully assemble the extension tubes and angles.
Adjustable angles
Before using the Solarspot adjustable angles, first remove the
internal protective film and peel away some of the grey tape holding
the sections together. To create the desired angle, gently twist one
section against the other until the correct angle is achieved. Now
hold the sections together by temporarily re-applying the grey tape –
it may need minor adjustment when connecting with the extension
tubes.
Extension tubes
In the loft, insert the lower angled section into the ceiling tube
and ‘aim’ it at the top tube. Now do the same at the top and ‘aim
the other angle at the lower tube – use some small pieces of tape
to hold the angles in place.
Now measure the gap between the two angles so that you can
determine the distance of straight extensions required and the
configuration of your installation. When you are happy that you
know the configuration, and that you do not need to cut any
tubes (note; tubes should telescope together but very
occasionally you may need to reduce a tube in length by cutting)
you can assemble the straight extensions.
Join the tubes using a short notch at
one end and a long notch at the other.
To form the straight extension tubes first remove the internal
protective film. Now weave the top of the tube in the deep notch
and the bottom of the tube in the shallow notch (depending on
configuration) – ensuring that the middle notch is also
connected. Use a length of tape to seal the seam of the tube. The
extensions should ‘telescope’ together to the required length.
With the straight section loosely assembled using small sections
of tape to hold the extensions together, offer it up into place to
check that there is enough tubing to join the top and bottom
Tape the seam of the tube with one
together. Now remove the top and bottom angles from their
long piece of aluminium tape.
temporary position and roughly assemble the system ready for
installation - hold together using small sections of tape.
Now slide the assembled system over the bottom tube (the brush
seal will allow it to slide in easily) and manoeuvre the top angle
into place. Feed the top angle into the dome tube and hold in
place with a small piece of tape
Now review the complete system to ensure that the tube has a
‘smooth run’ from top to bottom. When you are completely
happy with the system, the tubes sections and angle joints can
be fully sealed using the silver tape provided.
In addition, use the small silver screws to hold the tubes in place
- particularly important in longer, heavier systems (see page 7).
When sealing the angles only use
small piece of tape and work your way
around the joint or junction.
Assembling the tubes
Single extension
example - no angled
extensions
At each end of the tube extension
you will see a shallow notch and
deep notch. By connecting the
tubes using the shallow notch you
create a wide opening, and by using
the deep notch you create a
narrower opening.
For a simple installation using
only one extension, join the tube
by connecting the deep notches
at both ends to create a ‘narrow’
parallel tube. The top of the
extension will slide up inside the
top tube and the bottom of the
extension will slide over the
brush seal on the ceiling tube.
OUTSIDE
INSIDE
Please see the following examples
before assembling your Solarspot
system.
OUTSIDE
INSIDE
Short notch
(wide opening)
Note: on some flat roof
installations it may be necessary
to tape the bottom joint from the
inside.
Long notch
(narrow opening)
Multiple
extensions and
angled extensions
OUTSIDE
INSIDE
Top tube already positioned in
the roof flashing.
300mm 0-30 degree angle
Long 600mm 0-30 degree
adjustable angle should be
used with the ‘short’ end
facing down.
Note: If you are fitting a
system with an installation
distance of 1m or less, you will
have only been supplied this
600mm section. If this is the
case then follow this procedure
as the ‘short’ end of the
extension will NOT sleeve into
the top tube and can only be
fitted this way.
Use the short screws
to secure the upper
sections of the
system after taping
the joints - two per
joint
OU
TS
IDE
INS
IDE
Extension tube, or tubes, made
up using the long and short
notched to give a ‘wide’ and
‘narrow’ end.
OU
TS
IDE
INS
IDE
OUTSIDE
INSIDE
Don’t Forget
to tape the
brush-sealed
joint as well.
6
Short fixing screws
Installer tip:
When you’ve finished taping the
joint and sections of the system,
and they’ve been rubbed down to
smooth out the tape, turn out the
loft light to ensure that you
cannot see any light escaping
from the tube.
Also, using the short screws
provided (6 no.), drill pilot holes
and insert to secure the system. If
the unit is likely to get knocked
into or is particularly long then
extra screws may be required
(not supplied).
ALWA
YS
FLASH INSULATE
INGS
META
COND TO PREVE L
ENSA
NT
TION
Please read this guide before
commencing work on your flat
roof installation.
The Solarspot flat roof kit is suitable for
installation into virtually any flat roof
application.
If you are unsure of the
suitability for your roof type,
please contact the manufacture
of your roof membrane.
Bitumen felt
Single-ply membrane
EPDM
Fibreglass (GRP)
Liquid membrane
Before starting, locate the position that your
Solarspot will be in the ceiling and ensure
that you have sufficient room between the
joists for the unit to fit. We suggest locating
the internal position first and then drilling a
pilot hole through to the outside to locate the
position on your roof.
For installation of the diffuser section
please see page 2. We recommend cutting
the ceiling hole as described but do not
install the ceiling tube until all of the roof
work is complete.
On the roof, using the pilot hole as your
centre-point, cut the hole for the top tube –
275mm for the D-25 or 400mm for the D-38.
If you have purchased a neoprene flashing
insulator, install it as follows;
Lay the flashing insulator over the roof
aperture, now position the flashing over the
aperture. Temporarily insert the top tube into
the flashing and ensure that everything aligns.
Using appropriate fixings (not supplied) screw
the flashing into place and carefully cut away
the excess neoprene. Remove the top tube and
weather the flashing to the roof using the
appropriate roofing materials.
Alternatively, on a warm-roof for example,
the flashing turret can be insulated using loose
Rockwool type insulation or expanding foam –
after the top tube is located in its final position
(if using expanding foam, wrap the top tube in a
sheet of plastic to avoid it sticking to the foam
and do not over fill the space).
With the top tube now screwed into place –
ensure that the RIR Light Funnel lens is facing
south (see page 5). Now follow the final stages
of the instructions for the ceiling tube and
diffuser. The top and bottom sections are sealed
using the fitted brush seal, however, a small
strip of the silver tape provided can be applied
around the joint to provide an addition seal if
required.
*In extreme conditions, or for certain roof types,
you may be supplied with a self-adhesive
insulating collar. This is applied to the inside of
the flashing turret before the flashing is fixed
in place.
For advice, or to contact your nearest installer you can call us on 01908 299117
Lines open: Monday – Friday, between 9am and 5pm.
[email protected] www.solarspot.co.uk
©Syneco Limited, Suite 138/A, The i:Centre, Howard Way, Newport Pagnell MK16 9PY
Reg. in England: 6 Bedford Road Barton le Clay Bedfordshire MK45 4JU
Registration No 7423246
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