MANUFACTURER’S OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS COMPONENTS DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER’S OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS  COMPONENTS DESCRIPTION
MANUFACTURER’S OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
FIRE HOSE TESTER
COMPONENTS
DESCRIPTION
Motor
Pump
1 HP 50/60HZ, TEFC, MTO, 110/220V, single phase
3 GPM Triplex Plunger Pump
Pressures up to 500 PSI
Stainless Steel Liquid-Filled
Inlet 2.5” NST Swivel Coupling
4 independent Ball valves with NST couplings
0.5” ball valve to bleed air and attach Pressure wand accessory
Manual-Operated Pressure Relief valve, adjustable settings with bypass
Gauge
Inlet
Outlet
Back Bleed
Pressure Regulator
HOOKING UP THE PUMP:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Connect inlet to fire hydrant outlet with 1.5” or larger hose
Connect fire hose to be tested to suitable adapters on manifold outlets. Hose should have nozzles on the end to
bleed the air from the lines at full flow. Hoses should be lying up hill from the pump if possible.
Connect garden hose to back bleed and direct to a drain area keeping test area dry.
ASSURE MOTOR IS “OFF”. Connect the power cord to a standard wall outlet. Extension cord: when needed,
a 12 gauge 3 wire, max 25 ft length, plugged into a 20amp breaker is required.
OPERATING THE PUMP:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Close all ball valves, slightly crack open the 0.5” bleeder ball valve.
Open inlet ball valve. Open outlet ball valves one at a time and allow each hose to be filled through manifold. Do
not turn pump on at this time.
To insure air is safely bled from hoses, bleed each hose, one line at a time with hydrant volume and pressure,
utilizing a nozzle or shut off at the end of the hose.
When each line is filled, free of air, with nozzle closed, close the ball valve at the manifold outlet to seal that line.
Even if you are not using all four outlets, bleed them with full hydrant flow. All air must be removed.
With back bleed open, turn on the pump. This will bleed the air out of the pressure side of the pump – out to the
drain area.
Close 1.5” ball valve at inlet of manifold/unit, directing water flow from hydrant to pressure side of pump.
No pressure will build until this ball valve is closed.
Slowly close the 0.5” back bleed ball valve at end of 1.5” manifold. Check the gauge to verify pressure setting of
relief valve. The pressure regulator has been preset at factory. To change this setting you must make this
adjustment while the water is flowing freely, under no pressure. To adjust pressure, first loosen the locknut.
Turn the T-handle/knob clockwise to increase and counter-clockwise to decrease the pressure. Place a ball valve
or similar open and close valve at the end of the outlet hose(s), open and close ball valve to check pressure
setting and re-adjust as necessary. It is also recommended that you open and close the 0.5” back bleed valve to
release excess air from piping and ensure accurate pressure readings. Once desired setting is reached, IT IS
VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU RE-TIGHTEN THE LOCK/JAM NUT, do not leave adjustment handle free to
move or vibrate out of setting. If unloader valve handle is removed or otherwise becomes disengaged, see
attached diagram to rebuild assembly correctly. CAUTION: IT IS VERY COMMON TO REPLACE
POPPET/BUTTON BACKWARDS, THE LONGER LEG WITH STEEL BALL FACES AWAY FROM THE
SPRING.
Open the 1.5” ball valves at the outlets and begin building pressure in all the lines. In the event there is an
acceptable leak in the system that must be overcome by leaving the pump running. Crack the 0.5” back bleed
valve allowing a small amount of cool fresh water to run in bypass. Once pressure has been reached close all
ball valves and shut off pump.
If the air has been bled as outlined, the pump will build pressure quickly and safely with only hose stretch to
overcome. If a hose ruptures, the only volume of water available is through GPM of pump. NO SURGE OF
VOLUME, NO WILD LINE.
Remember it is very important to bleed the air out of each line, the manifold and the high pressure side of the
pump with as much volume at hydrant pressure as possible. This will provide the most safety during testing.
It is impossible to insure that air is not caught behind couplings. If air is caught behind a coupling that fails- it
could cause an explosion and fragmentary effect. Do not bend over the top of the pump. Treat hoses and
couplings under pressure as dangerous.
NOTE: When dealing with existing pressured hoses or to re-pressurize hose, unit’s existing manifold/piping
pressure must be bled back down to 70 PSI. DO NOT LOWER PRESSURE ON HOSES OR TEST
ENVIROMENT, just in manifold/piping section of pump. High existing “head pressure” will cause motor to stall, not
start at all, or pump to fail. Examples: hoses are pre-filled and have existing pressure of 120 PSI, and you need to
build to 150 PSI, the positive displacement pump will struggle with overcoming this existing head pressure. TO
OVERCOME: with 1.5” outlet ball valves closed holding existing pressure open back bleed 0.5” ball valve to
release pressure in piping/manifold down to 70 PSI or below. Turn motor/unit on and close 0.5” back bleed ball
valve building pressure within piping/manifold to at least 30 PSI above existing test pressure (this will allow the
pump to overcome the existing head pressure, and begin to open individually the 1.5” ball valves.
MAINTENANCE, TROUBLESHOOTING, AND CAUTIONS:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
DO NOT RUN PUMP DRY. (EXCEPT FOR 3-5 SECONDS WHEN DRAINING)
DRAIN ENTIRE SYSTEM AFTER EACH USE.
FLUSH WITH ANTI-FREEZE TO PROTECT FROM FREEZING IN COLD CLIMATES.
PLUG IN DIRECTLY TO WALL OUTLET OR NO SMALLER THAN A 12 GAUGE 3 WIRE 25’ EXTENSION
CORD.
Periodically check oil level in pump thru sight glass, 30wt non-detergent.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Leaks
SOLUTION
Look for leaks in water supply or connections.
Kinked/Collapsed
Supply hose may be kinked or collapsed.
Pump Sucking Air
Small holes in supply hose are hard to find as air is sucked inward.
Replace supply hose.
Relief Valve Setting
500 PSI maximum setting.
AIR, AIR, AND MORE AIR
Ensure air is bled from hoses, manifold, piping.
The length of time to build pressure and test hoses is directly
related to overcoming air buildup.
Not building pressure
Inlet ball valve has not been closed.
Faulty Gauge
Replace gauge.
Piston Pump - Old Style
Worn seals or cups rebuild pump.
Motor will not Run
Verify plugged directly into wall outlet, or using a minimum 12 gauge 3
wire, maximum 25’ extension cord.
Push thermal overload button to reset.
REV DATE 1/1/08
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