510-0250 Carbs SuperEG 3684 Ironhead 1

510-0250 Carbs SuperEG 3684 Ironhead 1
Instruction 510-0250
S&S Cycle, Inc
Copyright © 2006, 2014
by S&S® Cycle, Inc.
14025 Cty Hwy G PO Box 215
Viola, Wisconsin 54664
®
08-07-14
All rights reserved.
Printed in the U.S.A.
!
.
Phone: 608-627-1497 • Fax: 608-627-1488
Technical Service Phone: 608-627-TECH (8324)
Technical Service Email: [email protected]
Website: www.sscycle.com
m!
Installation and Jetting Instructions for
S&S Super E and G Series "Shorty" Performance Carburetors for 1936-’84
Harley-Davidson® Big Twins and 1957-‘85 Ironhead Sportster® Models
!
IMPORTANT NOTICE:
DISCLAIMER:
S&S parts are designed for high performance, closed course, racing
applications and are intended for the very experienced rider only. The
installation of S&S parts may void or adversely a ect your factory warranty.
In addition such installation and use may violate certain federal, state, and
local laws, rules and ordinances as well as other laws when used on motor
vehicles used on public highways, especially in states where pollution laws
may apply. Always check federal, state, and local laws before modifying your
motorcycle. It is the sole and exclusive responsibility of the user to determine
the suitability of the product for his or her use, and the user shall assume all
legal, personal injury risk and liability and all other obligations, duties, and
risks associated therewith.
Statements in this instruction sheet preceded by the following words are of
special signi cance.
WARNING
Means there is the possibility of injury to yourself or others.
CAUTION
Means there is the possibility of damage to the part or motorcycle.
NOTE
Other information of particular importance has been placed in italic type.
The words Harley®, Harley-Davidson®, H-D®, Sportster®, Evolution®, and all
H-D part numbers and model designations are used in reference only. S&S
Cycle is not associated with Harley-Davidson, Inc.
S&S recommends you take special notice of these items.
WARRANTY:
All S&S parts are guaranteed to the original purchaser to be free of
manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a period of twelve
(12) months from the date of purchase. Merchandise that fails to conform to
these conditions will be repaired or replaced at S&S’s option if the parts are
returned to us by the purchaser within the 12 month warranty period or within
10 days thereafter.
In the event warranty service is required, the original purchaser must call or
write S&S immediately with the problem. Some problems can be recti ed by a
telephone call and need no further course of action.
A part that is suspect of being defective must not be replaced by a Dealer
without prior authorization from S&S. If it is deemed necessary for S&S to
make an evaluation to determine whether the part was defective, a return
authorization number must be obtained from S&S. The parts must be packaged
properly so as to not cause further damage and be returned prepaid to S&S
with a copy of the original invoice of purchase and a detailed letter outlining
the nature of the problem, how the part was used and the circumstances at
the time of failure. If after an evaluation has been made by S&S and the part
was found to be defective, repair, replacement or refund will be granted.
SAFE INSTALLATION AND OPERATION RULES:
Before installing your new S&S part it is your responsibility to read and follow
the installation and maintenance procedures in these instructions and
follow the basic rules below for your personal safety.
• Gasoline is extremely ammable and explosive under certain conditions
and toxic when breathed. Do not smoke. Perform installation in a well
ventilated area away from open ames or sparks.
• If motorcycle has been running, wait until engine and exhaust pipes
have cooled down to avoid getting burned before performing any
installation steps.
• Before performing any installation steps disconnect battery to eliminate
potential sparks and inadvertent engagement of starter while working
on electrical components.
• Read instructions thoroughly and carefully so all procedures are
completely understood before performing any installation steps.
Contact S&S with any questions you may have if any steps are unclear or
any abnormalities occur during installation or operation of motorcycle
with a S&S part on it.
• Consult an appropriate service manual for your motorcycle for correct
disassembly and reassembly procedures for any parts that need to be
removed to facilitate installation.
• Use good judgment when performing installation and operating
motorcycle. Good judgment begins with a clear head. Don’t let
alcohol, drugs or fatigue impair your judgment. Start installation when
you are fresh.
• Be sure all federal, state and local laws are obeyed with the installation.
• For optimum performance and safety and to minimize potential
damage to carb or other components, use all mounting hardware that is
provided and follow all installation instructions.
• Motorcycle exhaust fumes are toxic and poisonous and must not be
breathed. Run motorcycle in a well ventilated area where fumes can
dissipate.
!
ADDITIONAL WARRANTY PROVISIONS:
(1) S&S shall have no obligation in the event an S&S part is modi ed by any
other person or organization.
(2) S&S shall have no obligation if an S&S part becomes defective in whole or
in part as a result of improper installation, improper maintenance, improper
use, abnormal operation, or any other misuse or mistreatment of the S&S part.
(3) S&S shall not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages
resulting from the failure of an S&S part, the breach of any warranties, the
failure to deliver, delay in delivery, delivery in non-conforming condition, or
for any other breach of contract or duty between S&S and a customer.
(4) S&S parts are designed exclusively for use in Harley-Davidson® and other
American v-twin motorcycles. S&S shall have no warranty or liability obligation
if an S&S part is used in any other application.
"!
•
INTRODUCTION
S&S® Super E and G Shorty carburetors are butterfly type
carburetors with fully adjustable idle mixture and circuit and
changeable mid range and high speed jets The high speed circuit
features a changeable air bleed. Both carburetors also feature an
adjustable accelerator pump and variable enrichment/fast idle
device for improved throttle response, engine starting and warm
ups.
•
suitability of the product for his or her use and shall
assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.
Because S&S carburetors are significantly larger than OEM
units, unmodified, small displacement engines such as 883
Sportster® models may experience sluggish low speed
response when equipped with S&S carburetors. This can
often be minimized with performance exhaust and careful
tuning.
All manufacturer warranties become void if any part of the
carburetor is polished, chrome plated or otherwise altered.
THROTTLE REQUIREMENTS
NOTE: S&S Super E and G carburetors require the use of a two
cable, pull open - pull closed throttle assembly. All 1980 and
earlier stock H-D® models equipped with a single cable throttle
mechanism must be converted to the two cable, pull open-pull
closed type. S&S offers these throttle assemblies, but does not
include them with any carburetor kit because of the multitude of
chassis designs and fitment requirements.
The Super E has a 17⁄8" (47.6mm) bore and 19⁄16" (39.6mm)
venturi. It is identified by an "E" cast into the throttle linkage side
of the body below the letters "S&S SUPER". The Super E is
recommended for use on any displacement big twin or Sportster®
model.
The Super G has a 21⁄16" (52.3mm) bore and 3⁄4" (44.5mm)
venturi. It is identified by a "G" cast into the carb body. See
Picture1.
Single, braided wire cable throttle mechanisms cannot
mechanically close the throttle. If throttle inadvertently sticks
in open position, loss of control of motorcycle and personal
injury to operator or others may result.
1980 and Earlier Motorcycles
All stock chassis 1980 and earlier, or any motorcycle equipped
with single cable throttle system must be converted to a two
cable system. Throttle assembly kits may be ordered separately.
1981 to ‘84 Big Twin Models and 1981 to 1985 HarleyDavidson® Sportster® Models
The stock two cable throttle system designed for stock, butterfly
type carburetors on these models can be installed on the S&S
Super E or G throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S
Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1984 big twins contain a
throttle cable guide designed for stock butterfly type throttle
cables
CARB INSTALLATION
Read instructions thoroughly to familiarize yourself with all
procedures before beginning installation.
NOTE: Installation of S&S® Super E and G carb kits on certain models
is easier with gas tanks removed. Some owners may elect to perform
installation without removing gas tanks. This is left to individual
discretion. If installer elects to remove tanks or other stock parts, S&S
recommends referring to appropriate Harley-Davidson® service
manual for correct removal procedure as necessary.
Picture 1 The Super G is recommended for use on modified engines of 100
cubic inches or more. While both carburetors can be made to
work on most engines, the Super G is not recommended for small,
low compression engines. If there is doubt as to which carburetor
to use, S&S suggests the Super E.
1- Remove Old Carburetor And Manifold
IMPORTANT NOTES
•
Recommended for Racing Only - S&S Super E & G
carburetors covered by these instructions are not legal
for use in California on motor vehicles operated on
public highways or in other states where similar
pollution laws apply. The user shall determine the
A- Shut off fuel petcock and disconnect battery.
B- Remove air cleaner assembly. Drain fuel from existing
carburetor. Remove carburetor, manifold, choke cable
and any carburetor mounting hardware.
2 •
•
•
Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under
certain conditions. Do not smoke around gasoline.
Gasoline fumes are toxic when inhaled. Perform
installation in a well ventilated area away from open
flames or sparks. Any gasoline leak or spill
constitutes a health and fire hazard.
If motorcycle has been running, wait until engine and
exhaust have cooled to avoid getting burned during
installation.
Electrical sparks can ignite explosive gasoline fumes.
Failure to disconnect battery while working on
motorcycle can also result in inadvertent
engagement of starter and personal injury.
Picture 3 NOTE - Removing and tightening hard to reach Allen bolts like
carb-manifold mounting bolts can be greatly simplified by using
some special tools. Allen ball-end drivers are very helpful, and are
available at most automotive and tool supply houses. See Picture
2.
2- Shovelhead, 1966 to 1979 and ironhead (IH) HarleyDavidson® Sportster® models, 1957 to 1979 - Install
plug into hole in air cleaner backplate. See Picture 4.
Picture 2 Picture 4 2- Prepare Air Cleaner Backplate
3- Shovel, 1980 to 1984 and Sportster® models 1980 to
1985 - Screw crankcase breather vent elbow fitting
into hole in air cleaner backplate and angle
downward as shown in Picture 5.
NOTE: Fast idle lever screws must not be over tightened. Loctite® or
other thread locking compound may be used sparingly on threads to
prevent screws from vibrating loose.
Over tightening fast idle lever screws may damage backplate.
A- 1936-’84 models
1- Knucklehead & panhead, 1936 to 1965 - Install plugs
into holes in air cleaner backplate.
See Picture 3
Picture 5 4- On 1983 and 1984 shovel engines press plug into
3 remaining hole on left in Picture 5.
5- Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A.
B- Prepare existing throttle assembly - 1981-1985 HarleyDavidson® Sportster® and 1981-1984 big twin chassis
equipped with two cable pull open-pull closed type
throttle assembly.
1- Loosen cable free play adjustment locknuts and
thread adjusting screw so half of threads are
exposed. See Picture 6.
2- Clean grease and dirt off cables, cable housings and
cable fittings.
3- Apply light coat of cable lubricant to cables and
fittings.
4- Install New Manifold and Mounting Hardware
Figure A NOTE: When applicable, all carburetor mounting brackets and
hardware supplied in kit must be installed to secure carburetor and
air cleaner backplate assembly or air horn rigidly to engine.
On current backplates, the pivot point for the enrichener does
not have a screw holding it; a boss has been cast onto the
backplate to replace this.
Improperly mounted carburetor could loosen unexpectedly,
resulting in air leak, poor performance and possible damage
to engine or carburetor.
Incorrect combinations of mounting hardware may cause
mounting bolts to bottom out in holes or inadvertently
contact other parts possibly causing damage to engine or
carburetor components.
3- Throttle Preparation
NOTE: Throttle grip assembly must be assembled correctly and work
freely to prevent possible sticking during operation. Throttle must
snap closed when released. Cable routing must be free of tight bends
to minimize friction between cable and housing.
If throttle does not work freely, it may inadvertently stick
open possibly causing loss of control of motorcycle and
personal injury to operator or others.
Improperly mounted carburetor may break free in event of
collision or other vehicle accident creating a fire hazard with
potential personal injury to operator/others.
A- Install new throttle assembly - Motorcycles not equipped
with two cable pull open-pull closed type throttle
assembly.
1- Remove existing throttle cables and throttle grip
assembly. Note routing of stock cables.
2- Install new throttle assembly and throttle cables.
Position grip and cables so cables can be angled back
toward carb for easy adjustment and free operation.
3- Apply light coat of cable lubricant to cables/fittings.
4- Loosen cable free play adjustment locknuts and
thread adjusting screw so half of threads are
exposed. See Picture 6.
A- All models: Clean intake ports on cylinder heads to insure
proper manifold to head seal.
NOTE: Cylinder heads for knucklehead engines 1936-'47 and
panhead engines 1948-'54 must be converted to o-ring style
manifold and seals. Conversion kits are available from S&S®. See the
Vintage section of the S&S Catalog.
B- All models: Install S&S® intake manifold. If applicable,
vacuum advance fitting must point upward. Do not
completely tighten manifold clamps.
C- Knucklehead and panhead engines - Remove center
crankcase stud nut between tappet blocks. Install
bracket, to connect crankcase stud to bottom carbmanifold mounting bolt and reinstall nut. Do not tighten
at this time.
D- Shovelhead engines 1966 to 1982 - Bolt end of bracket
with sharp bend to front rocker cover using 5⁄16"-18 x
5⁄8" bolt, 5⁄16" flatwasher and 5⁄16" lockwasher provided
in kit. Do not tighten at this time.
E- Shovelhead engines 1983 to 1984 - Remove center
crankcase stud nut between tappet blocks. Install
adjustable bracket to connect crankcase stud to lower
carb-manifold mounting bolt and reinstall nut.
F- Sportster® models 1957 to 1985 - Bolt end of bracket with
sharp bend to front tappet guide using 5⁄16"-18 x 11⁄4 "
bolt, 5⁄16" flatwasher and 5⁄16" lockwasher provided in
kit. Do not tighten at this time.
Picture 6 4 NOTE: E & G carb will not fit Sportster® models equipped with OEM
style magneto due to interference between magneto and carb fuel
inlet fitting. S&S does not offer adapters or other components for this
application.
G- Sportster models 1983-'85 Connect vacuum operated
advance ignition switch (VOES) to manifold using 8"
piece of black tubing supplied in kit. Cut tubing to
shorter length if necessary.
5- Install Carb
A- Check idle mixture and idle speed screw settings.
Check setting of idle mixture screw on top of carb body.
Turn screw clockwise to close screw, counting number of
turns to fully closed position - setting should be 11⁄2
turns. Reset by turning screw counterclockwise to 11⁄2
turns open. After engine is started, screw must be reset as
explained in "Adjusting Idle Mixture" section of
instructions. See Picture 7.
Picture 8 Turn screw counterclockwise until it no longer contacts
throttle linkage spool. Next, turn screw clockwise until it
just contacts spool. Then turn additional 1⁄2 turn
clockwise to slightly open throttle plate.After engine is
started, screw must be reset as explained in "Adjusting
Idle Mixture" section of instructions.
C- Install throttle cables on carburetor.
1- Apply drop of Loctite® 242 or equivalent to threads of
cable bracket screw and install the throttle cable
guide on the carburetor.
2- Install opening side throttle cable barrel fitting and
throttle cable in throttle linkage and appropriate side
of throttle cable housing bracket. Opening side cable
housing outside diameter is smaller and measures
.190".
3- Repeat step 2 for closing side throttle cable. Closing
side cable is easy to identify as it has a spring around
inner cable wire. See Picture 9.
Picture 7 NOTE: Turn idle mixture screw in only far enough to contact seat. Do
not over tighten.
Over tightening idle mixture screw may cause irreversible
damage to carburetor body.
B- Check setting of idle speed adjusting screw. See
Picture 8.
Picture 9 D- Install carb on manifold
1- Install manifold o-ring
5 in
o-ring
groove
in
neatly route behind pushrod tubes. On a big twin model,
hose should go toward back of engine. On HarleyDavidson® Sportster® models, hose should go toward
front of engine. Exit end of overflow hose must extend
down below engine and away from exhaust pipes. See
Pictures 10 and 11
insulatorblock.
2- 1936-’65 knucklehead and panhead big twins - Bolt
carb and insulator block to intake manifold, (O-ring
side of block faces manifold) These kits include one
3⁄8"-16 x 11⁄4" socket cap screw and one 3⁄8"-16 x
13⁄8" socket cap screw. Use the longer screw in the
bottom manifold bolt hole to secure the crankcaseto-manifold support bracket to the manifold. (See
important note below and concerning insulator
block.)
3- 1957-’85 Sportster® models and 1966-’82 shovelhead
big twins - Bolt carb and insulator block to intake
manifold using two 3⁄8"-16 x 11⁄4 socket head cap
screws provided in kit.(O-ring side of block faces
manifold(See important note below and caution
concerning insulator block.)
4- 1983-84 shovelhead big twins - Bolt carb and
insulator block to intake manifold, (O-ring side of
block faces manifold) These kits include one 3⁄8"-16 x
11⁄4" socket cap screw and one 3⁄8"-16 x 13⁄8" socket
cap screw. Use the longer screw the bottom manifold
bolt hole to secure the adjustable crankcase-tomanifold support bracket to the manifold. (See
important note below and caution concerning
insulator block.)
Picture 10 NOTE: If insulator block is not installed, manifold bolts supplied in kit
will be too long and may bottom in holes. Shorter manifold bolts
must be used if insulator block is not installed.
If insulator block is not installed, lower manifold bolt may
damage carburetor bowl causing possible gasoline leak.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain
conditions. Do not smoke around gasoline. Gasoline fumes
are toxic when inhaled. Any gasoline leak or spill constitutes a
health and fire hazard.
Picture 11 D- Adjust throttle cables
1- Turn threaded throttle cable adjusters to remove
excessive freeplay.
2- Test throttle to insure that it opens and closes freely.
Turn handlebars to extreme left and open and close
throttle, then turn bars to extreme right and open
and close throttle. If throttle binds, loosen cable
adjusters to put more freeplay in cables. Tighten
adjusting screw locknuts after making final
adjustments.
Overflow hose must not contact hot surface such as exhaust
pipe where it could melt and catch fire.
F- Slip hose clamp over end of fuel line. Apply thin coat of
oil to carb fuel inlet fitting and slip end of fuel line on
fitting. Position fuel line in such a way as to avoid contact
with cylinders and other hot engine parts. Tighten hose
clamp. Slip protective fuel line covering over fuel line and
position where contact with engine parts could occur. On
models equipped with fuel line support guide, use guide
if possible. Connect other end of fuel line to gas tank
petcock using hose clamp provided.
NOTE: Throttle must not bind and must snap shut to fully closed
position when released.
If throttle does not return to fully closed position when
released, it may inadvertently stick open, causing possible
loss of control of motorcycle and personal injury to operator
or others.
Fuel line must be clamped securely and not contact hot
surfaces such as exhaust pipes where it could melt and catch
fire.
E- Slip fuel overflow hose onto fitting on carb bowl and
6 6- Install Air Cleaner Backplate
NOTE: Backplate screws supplied with kit have pre-applied thread
locking compound on threads. If screw without thread locking
compound is used, a thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242
must be applied to threads, and screws properly tightened. If screws
are removed in future, Loctite® 242 or equivalent must be applied
before reinstallation.
Failure to apply thread locking compound or properly tighten
screws may cause screws to loosen and fall into engine,
resulting in engine damage not covered under warranty.
A- Mount air cleaner backplate on carb using three 1⁄4"-20 x
9⁄16" screw/washer assemblies. Confirm that enrichment
device lever, engages enrichment device plunger, and
that enrichment device plunger does not bind at any
point in the travel of the lever. See Picture 12. Tighten
backplate mounting screws to 5-7 ft-lbs (60-84 in-lbs).
Picture 12 Picture 12 B- 1957-’85 Sportster® models and 1966-’82 shovelhead big
twins - Bolt carb mounting bracket to air cleaner
backplate. Head of 5⁄16"-18 x 1" bolt should rest in hex
recess on inside of backplate with threaded portion
extending through backplate, two 1⁄8" shims and
bracket. Secure with 5⁄16" flatwasher and locknut
provided.
C- All models - Final tighten of all mounting bracket bolts
and manifold clamps.
D- 1980-’84 big twin & Harley-Davidson® Sportster® models
1980 to 1985 - Connect crankcase breather hose to air
cleaner backplate hose fitting. See Pictures 13 and 14.
Picture 14 7- Final assembly and checks.
A- Check carb to manifold mounting bolts.
B- Check carb to air cleaner backplate mounting screws.
C- Check each of following that is applicable:
• Air cleaner mounting bracket to rocker box bolts
• Mounting bracket to air cleaner backplate bolts.
• Mounting bracket to center case stud.
• Mounting bracket to tappet guide bolt.
D- Check fuel line connections and routing. Avoid hot
surfaces.
E- Check vacuum operated ignition advance connections if
applicable.
F- Check crankcase to backplate vent hose connections if
7 applicable.
G- Check fuel overflow hose routing. Avoid hot surfaces.
H- Test throttle to be sure it opens and closes freely. Turn
handlebars to extreme left and open and close throttle,
then turn bars to extreme right and check throttle. When
released, throttle should snap closed in all positions.
I- Reassemble components that were removed or
disassembled for carb installation. Consult authorized
Harley-Davidson® service manual for installation
procedure for stock parts not covered in S&S® carb
instructions.
J- Check fuel needle and seat assembly. Fill gas tank with
just enough fuel to test system. Lean motorcycle over
towards carburetor side, turn on fuel petcock, and wait
20 seconds. If gas runs out end of carb or out overflow
hose, turn off petcock and check needle and seat. See
"General Information."
K- Check fuel inlet fitting and fuel line connections for leaks.
Hose clamps must be tight.
Picture 15 •
•
NOTE: Fuel needle and seat assembly must completely shut off fuel
supply to carburetor bowl. Fuel inlet fittings and fuel line connections
must not leak.
An optional 1" spacer block can be installed between carb
and manifold as an alternative.
Bowl vent screw should be removed for any all-out racing
application, which includes use of air horn or air cleaner
without filter element. Exposed passage in carb body
maintains equal pressure between float bowl and
atmosphere. See Picture 16.
Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood engine causing
contamination of oil supply and damage to engine.
Any gasoline leak represents a health and fire hazard.
L- Install air cleaner element. Insure that element goes
around outside edge of locating tang at 9 o'clock
position on backplate. Correctly installed element will
remain in place on backplate without support.
M- Apply blue tread locker to the three 3⁄4"-20 x 1"
mounting screws provided, and install air cleaner cover.
N- Fill gas tank.
INSTALLATION NOTES:
•
Due to the short installed length of the carb assembly, the
air cleaner cover may contact the gas tank of four-speed
shovelhead chassis with 5-gallon tanks. In such instances
an optional chromed, notched cover that will provide
additional clearance can be ordered. See Picture 15.
Picture 13 •
On any application where air horn is used instead of air
cleaner, S&S carb mounting bracket must be used to
securely fasten carb to engine. See line drawing on page XX
Improperly mounted carburetor may loosen from engine
resulting in gas or air leaks, poor performance and possible
damage to carburetor or other components.
Any gasoline leak represents a potential health and fire
hazard.
CARB OPERATION
8 1. Starting Procedure of Carb Operation
S&S Super E & G carburetors do not have a conventional
choke. Instead, a mixture enrichment/fast idle device is used
for starting and engine warm-ups. The enrichment device
utilizes separate air and fuel pickup passageways and is
engaged by pulling fast idle lever upward. See Picture 16.
Super E & G carburetors also feature a fully adjustable
accelerator pump which is actuated by quick throttle
movements at partial throttle openings and can be used as
an additional starting aid.
Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood engine causing
oil contamination and engine damage.
Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood engine and
surrounding area creating a potential health and fire hazard.
2- Prime engine with one or more squirts from
accelerator pump. Ambient temperatures below 60°
may require increased priming, up to 6-7 squirts
depending upon exact temperature and carb jet size.
3- Pull fast idle level, to fully raised position.
4- Turn on ignition.
ENRICHMENT DEVICE NOTES:
•
Enrichment/fast idle pickup tube located directly below
fast idle plunger, is pressed into carburetor body and must
not be removed. See Picture 17
NOTE: Some engines, especially those equipped with magnetos, will
start easier if given two prime kicks BEFORE ignition is turned on. For
reliable starting, magneto should be equipped with kill button to
disable ignition for prime kicks.
5- With throttle closed, kick engine through or engage
electric starter.
6- If engine fails to start immediately, crack throttle
enough to barely open butterfly and continue to kick
or engage starter until engine fires.
7- After engine starts, position lever to maintain rpm at
approximately 1000-1200 rpm with throttle closed.
Lever may gradually be pushed down to closed
position as engine warms. Engine should be warmed
sufficiently to idle with fast idle lever off in 1 to 4
minutes or after a few miles of riding.
NOTE: Operating engine with fast idle lever up for excessive time will
result in fouled spark plugs. Push lever completely down as soon as
engine will run smoothly without enrichener.
Picture 17 •
•
•
B- Hot Starts
1- Open fuel petcock.
2- Turn on ignition.
3- With throttle closed, kick engine through or engage
electric starter.
4- If engine fails to start immediately, open throttle
slightly and continue to kick or engage starter until
engine fires.
C- Troubleshooting Tips - engine will not start:
1- Fuel supply exhausted.
2- Weak or no spark - discharged battery, faulty ignition
module,coil, spark plug wires, or magneto worn
points or defective condenser, ,.
3- Plug gap too wide - S&S recommends .025" to .030"
plug gap on engines with points type ignition and
stock coil. Electronic ignitions and high output coils
can run wider plug gaps. Follow ignition
manufacturer’s recommendations.
4- Improper ignition timing - Worn or poorly maintained
mechanical advance units sometime stick in
advanced position causing hard starting, kick-back
and erratic idle.
5- Tight tappet adjustment - If solid tappets are
Plunger nut, plunger spring, and plunger, may be removed
for cleaning purposes.
If air cleaner backplate is removed, be sure fast idle lever
and enrichment plunger are engaged properly and do not
bind when backplate is reinstalled. See Picture 12.on page
7.
S&S® enrichment system operates on manifold vacuum. If
throttle is opened while starting engine, vacuum will be
reduced and enrichment system will not function normally.
Removal of enrichment/fast idle pickup tube from carburetor
body may cause irreversible damage to carburetor.
A- Cold Starts
1- Open fuel petcock.
NOTE: When motorcycle is not running, fuel petcock/shutoff valve
should be turned off to prevent possible leakage should needle and
seat not seal properly.
9 experiment with different starting procedures
(throttle and enrichener position, number of squirts
from accelerator pump, etc.), especially with kickstart
motorcycle. Carb tuning and ignition tuning and
maintenance are critical for kick start motorcycles.
adjusted too tightly, valves may not seat properly,
and the loss of compression may prevent the engine
from starting.
6- Improper idle mixture and/or engine idle rpm setting.
If idle mixture is set incorrectly, throttle plate must be
opened farther with the idle speed screw in order to
maintain idle speed. This reduces manifold vacuum
and makes the enrichment circuit less effective. See
"Adjusting Carburetor - Idle Circuit."
7- Enrichment device feed hole (See Picture 18) in bowl
plugged. Clear with compressed air.
10- If severe flooding is suspected, turn ignition off,
slowly roll throttle to wide open position, and kick 68 times to clear engine. Then close throttle to
approximately 1⁄8 turn, turn ignition on and kick
until engine starts.
11- If insufficient fuel is suspected, remove air cleaner
cover and confirm accelerator pump operation, with
motor off, by snapping throttle open from closed
position. Fuel should exit accelerator pump nozzle
directly behind main discharge tube in carburetor
bore.
12- If not, increase accelerator pump setting by turning
adjustment screw out, in counterclockwise
direction. Replace air cleaner cover and attempt to
start motorcycle according to procedure previously
described.
13- If more than 2-3 squirts from accelerator pump are
required to start motorcycle with temperature 60° or
above, larger intermediate jet may be required. This
may also be caused by incorrect idle mixture
adjustment or a manifold leak. Refer to following
sections for additional information on tuning.
Picture 14 2- Adjusting Carburetor
NOTE:
•
Adjusting Idle Circuit - Idle mixture screw regulates air/fuel
mixture at idle speeds and has been angled forward for
greater accessibility. See Picture 19.
•
Throttle stop/engine rpm adjustment screw is located on
boss on rear side of carburetor body. See Picture 20.
Do not use wire or drill to clear hole. If size of hole is changed,
starting system will be altered and carburetor bowl
irreversibly damaged.
Compressed air and particles dislodged by compressed air are
potentially harmful to eyes and body. Wear protective
goggles when using compressed air and always direct air
stream away from yourself and others nearby.
8- Improper diagnosis of rich or lean mixture condition.
If engine backfires in carb, mixture is usually lean and
engine must be reprimed. If there is no response after
three kicks or if engine pops in exhaust pipes, mixture
is probably too rich. Leave switch on and slowly open
throttle 1⁄4 turn with each successive kick until engine
fires.
Picture 15 9- If engine was running properly before installation of
carburetor, no other changes were made and carb
settings were confirmed as instructed previously,
hard starting is likely caused by incorrect
intermediate jet or starting routine. Remain calm and
patient while attempting to start motorcycle, and
10 and/or its seat.
Picture 20 B- Troubleshooting Tips - engine will not idle:
1- Improper idle mixture or rpm setting.
2- Intake manifold air leak.
3- Incorrect ignition timing, malfunctioning automatic
advance mechanism, or other ignition problem.
4- Foreign material in air or gas passageway in carb
causing gas flow restriction to idle or intermediate
circuit. Picture 21 shows intermediate air bleed
metering hole. Clear holes with compressed air.
1- Start engine and run until slightly warm
(approximately 1 to 2 minutes).
2- Turn RPM adjustment screw to obtain idle of
approximately 1000 RPM.
3- Turn idle mixture screw clockwise, slowly leaning
mixture until engine starts to stumble. Next, turn
screw counterclockwise, slowly richening mixture,
until engine RPM rises and then falls off. Mixture
adjustment is correct when screw is positioned about
halfway between these points, or generally 1⁄4 to 1⁄2
turn out from lean side of adjustment range.
NOTE: Turning screw out (counterclockwise) makes idle mixture
richer. Turning screw in (clockwise) makes mixture leaner. Normally,
correctly adjusted screw will be between 11⁄4 and 3⁄4 turns out from
bottom if intermediate jet size is correct. Note that mixture screw
must be adjusted according to Step 3 above. Do not leave screw at
initial 11⁄2 turn setting without fine tuning.
Picture 21 4- After initial idle mixture adjustment, reset engine idle
to approximately 1000 RPM. Lower idle speed can
cause hard starting, poor throttle response, erratic
idle and unnecessary engine wear.
5- After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, repeat Steps 3 and 4.
Do not use wire or drill to clear hole. If size of hole is altered,
starting system will be altered and carburetor bowl
irreversibly damaged.
Compressed air and particles dislodged by compressed air are
potentially harmful to eyes and body. Wear protective
goggles when using compressed air and always direct air
stream away from yourself and others nearby.
IDLE CIRCUIT NOTES:
•
If idle adjustments are made before engine is fully warmed,
idle mixture will be rich when engine reaches operating
temperature. If ambient temperature is below 60 degrees,
engine may require 10-15 minutes of normal riding to
reach operating temperature.
•
Whenever intermediate jet change is made, idle mixture
screw must be readjusted.
•
If the idle mixture screw is more than 13⁄4 turns out after
idle mixture is correctly adjusted, it is a fairly good
indication that the intermediate jet may be too small and
should be changed to the next larger size. If the idle mixture
screw ends up less than 11⁄4 turn out, the intermediate jet
may need to be changed to the next smaller size. Be aware
that idle mixture screw adjustment can be effected by other
factors, but can quite often indicate rich or lean
intermediate jetting.
•
If idle mixture screw is turned completely in, engine should
not run at idle. If engine continues to run at idle with idle
mixture screw seated, recheck initial setting of idle speed
screw, and make sure enrichment plunger is seated. This
may also indicate damage to the idle mixture screw needle
5- Enrichment/fast idle plunger not seated causing
excessively rich mixture. Be sure enrichment lever is
fully disengaged (in down position) allowing plunger
to bottom and seal passageway. Remove air cleaner
backplate. Lift and release plunger several times,
letting it "snap" closed to fully seat against carb body.
When backplate is reinstalled on carb, be sure lever is
engaged in plunger properly and that plunger is not
lifted as mounting screws are tightened. See Picture
17 on Page x.
6- 1⁄4" insulator block between carb and manifold
omitted. Heat transfer from manifold to carb may
cause temporary rich condition at idle and low rpm
when engine restarted after being shut off for a short
time. Install insulator block to minimize heat transfer.
C- Adjusting Intermediate System - (See Jetting Chart Page
XX) Intermediate rpm range is used most often under
11 •
normal riding conditions. The intermediate system
controls fuel delivery from just off idle to approximately
2500-3000 rpm or 55 to 60 mph depending on gearing.
Close attention must be paid when selecting
intermediate jet to achieve optimum performance and
best gas mileage. Intermediate jet (See Picture 22)
•
•
is reached by removing float bowl assembly. Size of
metering hole in intermediate jet is stamped in
thousandths of an inch on end or side of jet. Size of
intermediate jet installed in new carburetor from S&S® is
indicated on tag attached to carb or on printed label on
carburetor packing box. Keep this information handy for
future reference, especially when contacting S&S
Technical Services Dept. for assistance. It is a good idea
to record any jetting changes for future reference.
•
Whenever intermediate jet is changed, idle mixture screw
must be readjusted.
Elevation changes: A simple readjustment of idle mixture
screw will often compensate for changes in elevation of
several thousand feet. S&S test riders have ridden through
changes upwards of 7000 feet without changing jets. In
other cases, and depending upon accuracy of initial jetting,
a change in intermediate and/or main jet may be required.
Lower air density at higher elevation makes engine run
richer, meaning that smaller jets may be required to correct
overly rich condition. Lower elevation, nearer sea level,
makes engine leaner so larger jets may be required. While
rich condition can cause fouled spark plugs and poor
performance, lean condition can result in engine damage.
If smaller jets are installed for higher elevation, remember
to install larger jets for operation at lower elevation.
Intermediate jet provides majority of fuel under average
operating conditions. While it is tempting to change main
jet because it is more accessible, in most cases intermediate
jet should be changed to properly address
elevation/altitude-related problem.
D- Adjusting High Speed Circuit or Main Jet - High speed
circuit begins around 2500-3000 rpm or 55-60 mph
under steady speed conditions, and operates to
maximum attainable speed. High speed circuit will be
pulled in at much lower rpm if throttle is cracked open.
Main jet size is best determined by testing at drag strip or
dynamometer because maximum miles per hour, rpm
and horsepower are most reliable indicators of correct
jetting. Main jet (See Picture 23)is reached by removing
bowl plug. (See Jetting Chart Page XX).
Picture 22 Intermediate Jetting Procedure:
1- Ride motorcycle several miles to bring engine up to
normal operating temperature.
2- Check idle mixture adjustment to be sure setting is
correct with fully hot engine. Shut off accelerator
pump by turning adjusting screw clockwise until it
stops. Do not force the screw.
3- Check throttling characteristics by slowly rolling
throttle on from a steady speed. This should be done
at rpm levels of approximately 2000, 2500, and 3000
rpm. (Depending upon gearing, vehicle speeds will
usually be between 30 and 60 MPH). "Popping" or
"spitting" (backfiring) in air cleaner indicates lean
condition requiring that intermediate jet be changed
to next larger size (size is stamped on end or side of
jet).
4- Change jet accordingly, adjust mixture screw and
repeat road test. Smallest intermediate jet that
eliminates this condition should provide best gas
mileage.
Picture 23 High Speed (Main) Jetting Procedure:
1- Drag strip/dynamometer procedure
a- Sufficiently warm engine to begin testing.
b- Make run noting engine rpm and final speed or
horsepower.
c- Richen main jet by increasing jet size .004" and
make second run. Again, note rpm and final speed
INTERMEDIATE SYSTEM NOTES:
•
We recommend that you shut off accelerator pump while
fine-tuning intermediate circuit as fuel supplied by pump
can mask jetting symptoms. Consult "Accelerator Pump"
section of instructions.
12 module, improper ignition timing, loose wire, faulty
circuit breaker or ignition switch. Many
ignition/electrical problems occur repeatedly at same
rpm because of vibration specific to that rpm.
3- Incorrect intermediate and/or high speed jetting. See
"Adjusting Carb - Intermediate System" and "High
Speed Circuit or Main Jet."
4- Foreign material in air or gas passageway in carb
causing
flow
restriction.
Picture
24shows
intermediate air bleed metering hole. Picture 25.
shows main discharge air bleed metering jet. Use
compressed air to clear holes
or horsepower.
d- Continue procedure until mph/horsepower falls
off.
e- Decrease or lean main jet size by .002" to gain
best rpm and mph. When making runs on drag
strip, strive for consistent miles per hour, not
lowest ET.
2- Street Procedure - S&S uses "rpm" method to
determine main jet size. Under racing conditions this
level is where horsepower peaks and begins to taper
off and is where gear shifts occur. Main jet that
makes engine accelerate strongest or rpm through
gears quickest is correct.
NOTE: Placing engine under load by accelerating uphill may make
result of jet change more pronounced and easier to interpret.
a- Warm engine to operating temperature.
b- Accelerate rapidly through gears noting how
quickly and smoothly engine reaches rpm level
where pull of engine begins to fade and gear shift
occurs.
c- If engine backfires in carburetor and sputters or
"breaks up"and/or dies during acceleration,
increase or richen main jet size .004" larger and
road test again. Note engine smoothness and how
easily engine reaches rpm where gear shift occurs.
d- If engine runs flat and sluggish or "blubbers" or
will not take throttle, decrease or lean main jet
size .004" smaller and road test again. Note
engine smoothness and how easily engine
reaches rpm where gear shift occurs.
e- Continue changing main jets until jet which
makes engine accelerate or rpm through gears
quickest and smoothest is identified. S&S's®
experience is that jetting about .006" smaller
(leaner) than correct will make engine break up
and quit. Jetting about .006" larger (richer) will
make engine blubber and miss.
Picture 24 NOTES:
•
Correct carb jetting is essential for optimum performance
on street, strip and dynamometer. Other common causes
of poor performance in modified engine are inappropriate
exhaust and incorrect ignition timing.
•
S&S special main jet tool is extremely handy for changing
main jets. Try it, you'll like it!
Picture 25 .
E- Troubleshooting Tips for Intermediate and High Speeds
Engine will not run at steady speed or rpm or quits for no
apparent reason:
1- Restriction in fuel supply system - Gas tank vent
plugged, needle and seat not working properly (See
"General Information"), gas petcock too small, or
defective vacuum petcock. Stock petcock is generally
adequate, but may require running on reserve to
provide sufficient fuel for big inch engines. If fuel
delivery to carb is questionable, S&S recommends an
aftermarket high flow petcock.
2- Faulty ignition/electrical system - Fouled plugs, worn
points or condenser, defective coil or solid state
Do not use wire or drill to clear hole in carb bowl. If size of
hole is altered, starting system will be altered and carburetor
bowl irreversibly damaged.
Compressed air and particles dislodged by compressed air are
potentially harmful to eyes and body. Wear protective
goggles when using compressed air and always direct air
stream away from yourself and others nearby.
13 and may prevent jet change from correcting over rich
mixture. Float setting too low will cause poor off idle
response and may cause mixture to "lean out" at high
speed or when motorcycle leaned over in curve due to
insufficient fuel reserve in bowl. See General
Information on Page XX for float jetting instructions
and specifications.
13- Fuel standoff - Occasionally, fuel may be seen misting
out carburetor at full throttle when air cleaner is
removed. Because carburetor is simply a conduit
through which air and fuel enter engine, it does not
cause fuel standoff. Usual cause is cam timing and
exhaust reversion.
14- Overflow hose missing from the carb bowl can cause
engine to miss and break up at high speeds. This
problem will more than likely not occur on the dyno
because the motorcycle is not moving through the
air.
6No air cleaner used or air cleaner used is brand other
than S&S. Some air cleaners restrict air flow so that carb cannot
draw air as freely as needed. Also, some air cleaners may
obstruct bowl vent hole on inlet end of carb and change bowl air
pressure. See Picture 27.
Adjustable Air Bleed for Super E and G Carburetors
The main air bleed passage in S&S Super "E" and "G"
carburetors is fitted with a replaceable .040" jet. See Picture
26 on Page XX. The replaceable jet allows changing the size of
the main air bleed. Carburetors with this feature can be
identified by a serial number that begins with the letter E or
higher.
NOTES:
•
The standard .040" diameter air bleed is the optimum size
for most engine combinations, and should not be changed
under most circumstances, regardless of intermediate and
main jet selections.
•
Changing the main air bleed size should be done only after
determining a mid range driveability problem cannot be
corrected by changing the intermediate and main jets.
•
For tuning the main air bleed, S&S® recommends an initial
increase from the standard .040" jet to a .048" jet as a
starting point. Available jets and part numbers are listed in
the S&S catalog.
•
It is never necessary to reduce the size of the main air bleed
below .040".
•
Shifting the start of main jet operation to a point higher up
the rpm scale can lessen the effects of mid rpm driveability
problems caused by mismatched cam and exhaust
systems, but will not allow the engine to perform as well as
it would with a well designed exhaust system.
Picture 27 NOTE: Bowl vent hole passage leads to cavity above fuel in bowl.
Passage equalizes bowl pressure and atmospheric pressure. If high or
low bowl pressure relative to atmospheric pressure develops, engine
may run erratically.
7- Insulator block between carb and manifold not used.
Heat transfer from manifold to carb may cause
temporary rich condition at idle and low rpm when
hot engine is restarted after being shut off for a short
time. Install insulator block to reduce heat transfer.
8- Air cleaner without element or air horn used without
removing bowl vent screw located in downward
facing boss on throttle cable side of carburetor body.
See Picture 15 on Page XX.
9- Poor engine condition - Leaking or sticky valves,
weak or broken springs, pushrod flex, improper
clearances for high lift cam, or defective camshaft
with improper valve timing.
10- Inappropriate exhaust system.
INTERMEDIATE AND HIGH SPEED NOTES:
•
Carburetor jetting and spark plug color - While spark plug
color may be used to help determine carburetor jetting,
S&S recommends that our instructions be used as primary
jetting guide and that plug color indications be used as
secondary aid. Different brands of gasoline, gasoline
additives, engine heat, type of plugs, and spark plug heat
range can effect plug color making plug reading difficult
for average tuner. Also, new plugs usually require road test
of 10 miles or more to properly develop color. This means
that quarter mile tests may not be long enough to be a
good indication of carb jetting. It is best to use
recommended spark plug type and to consult spark plug
manufacturer with questions.
NOTE: S&S® has found that long, large diameter exhaust pipes, either
baffled or unbaffled, may present insurmountable tuning problems
when combined with S&S carburetor. If engine equipped with such
pipes does not respond to normal tuning procedure, contact exhaust
manufacturer for his tuning suggestions or call S&S for exhaust
recommendation.
11- Too much gear- Horsepower insufficient to pull
gearing.
12- Incorrect float setting - Setting float too high will
cause engine to run rich at idle and at low speeds,
14 •
•
•
•
•
If bike is used exclusively on drag strip where engine
temperatures vary, slightly richer jets may be necessary to
obtain best performance. Larger jets and richer mixtures
will enable one to run colder engine, which is sometimes
desirable. This is best determined by experimentation.
Cams and exhaust systems can make some engines
difficult to carburet. S&S has found that certain cams and
exhaust systems cause poor performance at a specific rpm,
and attempts to correct problem with carb tuning usually
degrade carburetion at other rpm ranges. A combination
of cam overlap, reversion, and back pressure, or even lack
of back pressure, can cause mixture dilution at certain rpm.
This will result in loss of power, engine roughness, or
misfiring.
Drag pipes –S&S does not recommend the use of straight
drag pipes for street applications. They typically display a
characteristic dip in midrange performance, and make
tuning more difficult.
Mufflered exhaust systems - A good, economical street
exhaust system consists of stock header pipes with crossover tube and low restriction mufflers such as S&S® slip-on
mufflers. This system typically produces 10 horsepower
more than drag pipes in midrange, where vast majority of
normal riding occurs.
For any all-out racing application, which includes use of air
cleaner without element or use of air horn, bowl vent screw
(See Picture34, page XX), should be removed to insure
atmospheric air pressure exists in bowl. If high or low bowl
pressure relative to atmospheric pressure develops, engine
may run erratically.
screw contacts pump actuator arm. This limits
actuator arm travel and shuts off pump.
Closing adjusting screw with excessive force may cause
irreversible damage to screw threads in carburetor body.
3- Perform intermediate and high speed jetting tests to
determine proper jetting.
4- With engine warm and at idle, blip throttle and note
throttle response.
5- Turn pump travel screw counter clockwise about 1⁄4
turn at a time and recheck throttle response until
engine no longer hesitates. This is usually about two
turns out.
6- Road test motorcycle noting throttle response at idle
and at levels in 500 rpm increments from idle to 30003500 rpm.
7- Set pump travel screw at point where best throttle
response is noted with minimum pump travel.
Minimum pump travel is recommended to conserve
fuel, prevent spark plug fouling, and curtail black
smoke from pipes when “blipping” throttle. Black
smoke from pipes is usually an indication of a rich
condition or excessive accelerator pump travel.
NOTE: Final accelerator pump adjustment should be confirmed by
riding motorcycle and noting throttle response with motorcycle
underway. Because of displacement, compression ratio, cam timing,
exhaust design and other, related factors, many engines will stumble
or bog if throttle is abruptly cranked fully open with engine at idle. If
correct carburetor (E or G) is installed and engine properly tuned and
equipped with appropriate exhaust and cam, stumble should
disappear under normal riding conditions.
GENERAL INFORMATION NOTES:
•
Carburetor body has six drilled passages that are
permanently sealed with drive plugs.
Removal of these plugs may cause irreversible damage to
carburetor.
•
Picture 28 F-­ F- Adjusting Accelerator Pump - Function of accelerator
pump is to improve throttle response when rapidly
opening throttle at low rpm and to aid cold starts. Pump
travel screw regulates volume of fuel delivered by
accelerator pump. See Picture 28 During assembly, S&S
sets screw for maximum volume to aid during initial
start-up after installation. Turning screw clockwise
decreases delivered pump volume. Turning screw
counterclockwise increases delivered volume.
1- Warm engine to operating temperature.
2- Turn pump travel adjusting screw clockwise until
15 To insure proper seal so needle completely shuts off fuel
supply entering bowl, float hinge, needle lift and needle
must work freely and not bind. Float must not contact bowl
gasket. If problem is suspected, remove bowl and check
float movement. If obvious misalignment, binding or
sticking occurs, remove, straighten and reinstall to obtain
free movement. Reset float level and double check for free
movement. To check, remove bowl (not accelerator pump
cap) and raise float until needle is in closed position and
spring in top of needle is compressed. Top of float opposite
the needle and seat assembly should be 1⁄8" to 3⁄16" below
bowl gasket surface. Float must not contact bowl gasket.
See
cut
away
bowl
in
Picture
29.
S&S offers a complete carburetor repair and rebuild service
that provides quality work at a fair price. If you are not
properly equipped to service an S&S carburetor and do not
have a qualified repair shop nearby, we recommend that you
contact us for a Return Authorization (RA) number and send
the carburetor to us. Be sure to include a note with your name
and address, RA number, and a detailed description of any
problems or repairs needed. Thanks for using S&S products!
Picture 29 •
Approximate Jetting For S&S Super E & G
Carburetors
When motorcycle is not running, fuel shutoff valve should
always be turned off to prevent possible leakage should
needle and seat not seal completely.
Displacement
Intermediate
Jet
Main Jet
Gasoline leaking past inlet needle may flood engine causing
contamination of oil supply and damage to engine.
883cc
.265 - .028
74 to 88ci
.0295
96 to 107 ci
.031
111 to 124 ci
.031
.066
.072
.076
.078
These jetting recommendations are a starting point only. Rejet carb for best performance. Any gasoline leak constitutes a fire and health hazard.
•
Throttle plate and throttle shaft should be checked
annually for signs of wear. Replace if necessary. If carb
body throttle shaft bushings are worn, carb must be
returned to S&S® for repair. If throttle plate removed, be
sure to reinstall correctly. See Figure B. Beveled edges of
plate must fit flat against carb throat.
Figure B •
•
•
If accelerator pump cap is removed, lift cap slowly so small
spring check balls and o-rings are not lost.
For racing, S&S offers two air horn conversion kits which
include appropriate mounting hardware and a substitute
enrichment device. One includes a 21⁄2" air horn and the
other includes a 4" air horn.
If fuel delivery from stock petcock appears insufficient, S&S
recommends that a high flow performance petcock be
installed.
16 17 18 19 20 
Was this manual useful for you? yes no
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Download PDF

advertisement