Elmira Stove Works | 1840 | Operating instructions | Elmira Stove Works 1840 Operating instructions

Elmira Stove Works 1840 Operating instructions
are listed to ULC Standards S-627 &
UL 1482 by Warnock Hersey
Professional Services Ltd.
1840 &1842
Important! Read this entire manual
before you install or use your new
cookstove. To reduce the risk of fire,
follow the installation instructions.
Failure to follow the instructions may
result in property damage, bodily
injury or even death.
Handles and controls are hot! Use the tool provided or a fire glove to operate
dampers and doors. Do not touch with bare hands – severe burns could result.
Repeated or extended over-firing of this stove is dangerous and will void the warranty.
This stove is designed to be connected to a 6” flue / chimney system.
The thermometer on the stove door has been calibrated for approximate oven temperatures. Use the interior
oven thermometer provided for accurate readings.
Read these instructions completely. Failure to follow these directions could
create a fire / safety hazard, and could void the warranty on your stove.
GAS MODEL 1842-G: See
important safety instructions, Page 3.
General Safety
Smoke detectors should be installed in the
building which houses the stove, in
accordance with local requirements and
recommendations of fire safety officials.
All openings in the floor under, or walls
behind or beside the stove, must be sealed.
Stove Location - Ensure that curtains and
other flammable materials are not able to
blow over the stove, burners or near the fire
box. This will result in a fire hazard.
Do not place sealed metal or glass containers
in oven or warmers, or on cooking surface.
Do not use aerosol containers near the range
when it is in use.
Grease accumulation is a common cause of
cooking fires. Do not attempt to extinguish a
grease or oil fire with water. Cover grease
fires with baking soda or a pot lid, or
extinguish with an appropriate extinguisher.
Clean the oven compartment on a regular
basis to remove grease build-up. Do not leave
pans containing grease or oil unattended on a
hot cooking surface or in a hot oven.
Do not place foil, pans, cookie sheets or
roasting pans directly on the oven bottom.
The oven rack provided can be set on the
oven bottom.
Plastics: Plastics are vulnerable to heat,
although some withstand higher temperatures
than others. Keep plastics away from parts of
the stove which may become warm when the
stove is in use.
Surface Cooking: Boil-over or boil-dry
conditions could result in a fire. Do not use
glass or glazed ceramic cookware on surface
burners or cookplates - sudden changes in
temperature may break them. Turn handles of
pans toward the center of the cooktop, without
extending over nearby burners or cookplates.
This will reduce the possibility of accidentally
overturning the pan. Let hot pans cool in a safe
place out of the reach of young children. Never
set hot pots on a combustible surface.
Frying: Use as little oil as possible. Filling a
pan too full of oil can cause spillovers when
food is added. Foods for frying should be as dry
as possible. Frost on frozen foods or moisture
on fresh foods can cause hot oil to bubble up.
Spillovers, fire and burns from splatters could
result. Use a deep fat thermometer to prevent
overheating oil beyond smoking point.
Deep Frying: Use extreme caution when
moving grease kettles or disposing of hot
Woodstove Safety
IMPORTANT: Once per week (more often
if using the stove continually), check the
channel around the oven for soot and creosote
buildup. Clean the channel thoroughly (top, side
and bottom) with the tool provided. To reduce
creosote build-up, burn the stove hot at least
once for every 16 to 24 hours of burning time.
Use only seasoned dry wood. Failure to follow
these directions could result in a chimney fire
and will void your warranty.
• Have the chimney inspected and
cleaned on a regular basis. A chimney
fire is a safety hazard. In the event of a
chimney fire:
1. Close all combustion air dampers on the
stove immediately.
2. Close the oven damper to restrict the flow of
heat up the chimney.
3. Immediately call the fire department.
4. Prepare to get everyone out of the house in
case the fire spreads.
5. Go outside and check to ensure that hot
ashes do not ignite shingles or other nearby
6. Once the fire has burned out and the
chimney has cooled, have the chimney
inspected to determine if any damage was
Over-Firing — Caution! Over-firing of a
wood-burning appliance represents a serious
fire hazard. Over-firing can warp your stove,
break welds, discolor plating and cause
premature burnout of your stove. Repeated or
extended over-firings will void the warranty of
this appliance. To prevent over-firing:
• If dampering the air intakes has little or no
effect on the fire (watch through the
Fireview door), the probable cause is
excessive chimney draft, especially on
chimneys taller than 20’. (Normal chimney
draft should be approximately 0.05” Water
Column.) In such cases, you will need to
install a damper in the stove pipe
approximately five feet from the floor.
NOTE: To prevent smoking / back-puffing,
open oven damper before opening the cook
plate or Fireview door.
• Install a magnetic thermometer on the top of
your stove near the flue collar, or a probe
thermometer in the stove pipe. To prevent
creosote buildup in the pipes, the stove
should be run between 800°F and 900°F for
30-45 minutes each burning day.
• Except for five to ten minutes after lighting,
do not operate the stove with doors open.
• Close the ash door and Fireview door during
operation. An open door can cause overfiring by allowing excessive draft through
the firebox.
Have your chimney cleaned regularly. This
will remove excessive creosote buildup.
If any parts of the stove or chimney system
begin to glow during operation, the stove is
over-fired. Do not add fuel. Close all doors,
dampers and draft controls completely until
glowing is eliminated and safe temperatures
are restored. If over-firing conditions persist
on subsequent burnings, contact your dealer
for remedial action.
Gas Appliance Safety
(Model 1842-G)
This appliance can be connected to a
standard 20-pound “barbecue” tank, if
done so in accordance with the
instructions below. (Tanks must be located
outside of the building. Connection hardware is
readily available from your local hardware store or
gas technician.)
This appliance and its individual shutoff
valve must be disconnected from the gas
supply piping system during any
pressure testing of that system at test
pressures in excess of 1/2 psi (3.5 kPa).
The maximum gas supply pressure is 10
inches water column (2.5 kPa).
Gas supply pressure for checking the
regulator setting shall be at least 11 inch
water column (2.74 kPa).
The maximum allowable depth of
cabinets installed above cooking tops is
13 inches (330 mm).
Leak testing of this appliance shall be
conducted according to the
manufacturer's instructions (page 11).
For safety reasons, top burner flame size
should be adjusted so it does not extend
beyond the edge of the cooking utensil.
HOUSE. Hoses and connections must
be located and routed to the right side
of the stove, well away from the
firebox and cooktop.
WARNING: This product must be installed by a
• If you smell gas:
licensed plumber or gas fitter when installed within
the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.
Massachusetts approval code # G1-1202-18.
1. This installation must conform to local codes
and ordinances. In the absence of local codes,
installations must conform to American
National Standard, National Fuel Gas Code
ANSI Z223.1–latest edition (**) or CSA-B149–
latest edition (***) installation codes.
2. Input ratings shown on the serial/rating plate are
for elevations up to 2000 feet (609.6 m). For
elevations above 2000 feet (609.6 m) ratings are
reduced at a rate of 4% for each 1000 feet
(304.8 m) above sea level.
Turn off the gas supply to the stove and
call a qualified serviceman.
Do not try to light any appliance.
Do not touch any electrical switch; do
not use any phone in your building.
Immediately call your gas supplier from
a neighbor’s phone. Follow the gas
supplier’s instructions.
If you cannot reach your gas supplier,
call the fire department.
Installation and service must be
performed by a qualified installer,
service agency or gas supplier.
If this is a new installation, your installer has not
done a proper job of checking for leaks.
Connections can loosen in transportation. If the
range connections are not perfectly tight, you can
have a small leak and therefore a faint gas smell.
Finding a gas leak is not a “do-it-yourself”
procedure. Some leaks can only be found with the
controls in the “on” position, exposing the user to
serious burns. Never use a flame to locate a leak.
• Do not use gas burners as a heater.
Prolonged use of the gas burners without
adequate ventilation can be hazardous. Top
burners are not designed for home heating and
component failures that may result from such
abuse are not covered by the warranty.
• Gas Burners: Use proper pan size. Select
pans large enough to cover the burner. The use
of undersized pans will expose a portion of the
burner which may result in burns, ignition of
clothing or spillovers directly on burner.
Never leave gas burners unattended at high heat
setting. Always turn off burners before
removing pans.
In Canada, the installation of this stove must
conform to the current standards CSA-Z240–latest
edition*** and to local codes.
Copies of the standards listed may be obtained
* National Fire Protection Association,
Batterymarch Park, Quincy, Massachusetts 02269
*** Canadian Standard Association, 178 Rexdale
Boulevard, Rexdale (Toronto), Ontario M9W 1R3
Use of High Flame: When using a high
flame, never leave any pans unattended. Hot oil
is particularly hazardous, since it can become
hot enough to ignite.
Venting: Do not obstruct the flow of
combustion and ventilation air to the stove. Any
openings in the wall behind the stove or the
floor under the stove must be sealed. Never
block the air openings of the gas burner
compartment. They provide air inlet which is
necessary for proper combustion.
Type of Gas: Liquid Propane (LP) gas.
Stoves are factory assembled for liquid propane
gas. Burners are rated for 11,000 BTU’s each,
based on Liquid Propane.
Chimney Function & Draft:
Chimney Height
Cold or Over-Sized Flue or Liner
“Stack Effect” & Negative Pressure
Operating Your Fireview Stove
Safety Instructions
General Safety
Woodstove Safety
Gas Appliance Safety (Model 1842-G)
Getting Acquainted
Unpacking & Assembly
Removing & Replacing Firebrick & Grate
Removing Stove from Skid
Flue Boot Assembly
Cabinet Assembly
Pipe Damper Installation
Clearances & Heat Shields:
Reducing Clearances
Floor Protection
Gas Installation:
Gas Supplies
Gas Piping to Stove
Manual Shutoff
Pressure Testing
Gas Leak Testing
Stove Top Cooking:
Cooktop Guidelines, Instructions & Tips
Oven Cooking:
Door Thermometer Calibration
Gas Burner Operation:
Igniting Gas Burners
Chart of Clearances
Optional Heat Shield Kit
Rough-in Diagrams & Dimensions
Wood-Burning Basics
The Chimney
Air Intakes
Fireview Door
Break-in Fire
Starting a Fire
Maintaining a Fire
Disposing of Ashes
Maintenance & Adjustments
Oven Flue Passage – Cleaning
Flue Boot
Oven Damper
Chimney Cleaning
Gas Burner Cleaning
Manual Burner Adjustment on Low
Fireview Glass Cleaning / Replacement
Igniter Battery
Porcelain / Powder Coated Finishes
Nickel Trim
Oven Compartment
Door Gaskets
Removing & Replacing Firebrick & Grate 36
Chimney Requirements / Installation 18
Existing Chimneys
Flue Pipes
Stovepipe-to-Chimney Connection
Connecting to Pre-Fabricated Chimney
Chimney Connection Systems – Thimbles
Chimney Clearances
Glossary of Terms
Parts of Your Fireview (Diagram)
Fireview Parts (List)
Options & Accessories
Heat Shield Kit
Getting Acquainted With Your Fireview™ Cookstove
This owner’s manual is an important tool, and
should be kept near the stove for reference. If you
sell your stove, pass the manual along to the new
owner, so that they too can enjoy the full benefits of
this appliance. The performance of your stove will
be directly affected not only by how you operate it,
but also by the quality of materials and
workmanship used in its installation (especially the
chimney and connections), and the quality of wood
you burn. More information on these topics is
provided in this manual.
Your FIREVIEW™ cookstove is the result of
thirty-five years of experience designing and
manufacturing spectacular high-quality woodburning stoves and kitchen appliances. It is a true
original, based on authentic designs and castings
from antique stoves, but with many modern
conveniences and efficiencies. With proper
operation and maintenance, your FIREVIEW will
give you and your family years of cooking pleasure,
wonderful meals and warm memories.
Operating and cooking on a wood-burning
cookstove is part science, part art. We are
confident you will enjoy the learning experience
and the sense of accomplishment as you master
the art of woodstove cooking. Begin by thoroughly
reading this manual to gain a basic understanding of
your stove’s operation. As you gain experience,
your skill will increase, as will the quality of your
results. Please take the time to read this manual
thoroughly so that you can become familiar and
comfortable with proper installation, operation and
maintenance procedures for your appliance.
Through experience, you will learn the role the
dampers and chimney play in your stove’s
performance. The Fireview has been tested by
Intertek Warnock Hersey and is listed by
Underwriters’ Laboratories of Canada (Standard
ULC S-627) and Underwriters’ Laboratories in the
U.S. (Standard UL 1482). This stove is listed for
burning wood. Do not burn other fuels; doing so
may be dangerous and will void your warranty. The
Fireview is not listed for installation in, and must
not be installed in, mobile homes.
Familiarize yourself with your stove with a few
“test runs” on a cold stove. Operate the various
controls. Then burn a low fire for a few hours,
taking the time to see how the controls affect the
flame, oven temperature, cooktop and warmers, etc.
After you have used your stove for a few weeks, reread the appropriate portions of this manual. Some
procedures that seemed confusing on first reading
will become clear once you have used the stove.
Safety Notice: A house fire could result if your
stove is not properly installed and maintained. It is
important for your safety that you follow all
instructions for installation, operation and
maintenance. Contact your local building officials
regarding restrictions and inspection requirements
in your area. Failure to comply with these
instructions, restrictions, requirements and codes
is dangerous and could be unlawful.
Unpacking & Assembly
Understand local building codes, restrictions and
inspection requirements prior to installing your
stove. Clear the area where the stove will be located
so you will have room to work and will only have to
move the stove once. You will need a Phillips or
red-handled square screwdriver, 7/16” wrench,
7/16” socket wrench and pliers. The stove is packed
as follows:
• Stove - bolted to the skid
• Flue boot assembly - screwed to skid
• Boxed upper cabinet - strapped to the cooktop
• Cookplates / wood grate - shipped in place
Firebrick - in a box in the firebox
Ash pan - behind the ash door (bottom left)
Ash tool - taped beneath the cookplates.
Manual / flue boot insulation - in the oven
A package in the ash pan contains:
o Tool for opening dampers / doors
o Cookplate lift handle with bolt and nut
o Four cabinet bolts & nuts
o Interior oven thermometer
o Rear brick bracket
o Six nuts and washers for flue boot
6. Cookplates – install right and center plates first
(radiused edge on bottom to front of stove),
then follow instructions for installing left plate
and lift handle (see “Cabinet Assembly”).
(Center plate has no reinforcing bar.)
Removing Stove from Skid
1. Remove plastic from box(es) on cooktop.
2. Remove heat shield (if ordered) and cabinet box
from cooktop.
3. Remove shrink wrap from rest of stove.
4. Remove ash pan from behind ash door.
5. Remove cookplates: Open Fireview door and
push up on left plate. Grasp plate from above
and remove. Lift and remove remaining plate(s).
6. Remove ash tool taped to top of oven
7. Remove firebrick from firebox: Open
corrugated box. Remove bricks, starting with
smallest bricks first. Set aside, standing on edge.
Remove box from firebox.
8. Remove flue boot from skid using screwdriver.
9. Unfasten two nuts and bolts holding the stove to
the skid, using two 7/16” wrenches (a socket
wrench is very helpful). Wear gloves to protect
against cuts. Lift the stove off the skid and set
on the floor. Warning: If you have not removed
all removable parts, the stove is very heavy. Do
not slide or set stove on soft flooring, as this
could permanently damage the floor.
10. Optional: Remove doors / ash catch: Using
pliers, remove retainers from bottom of fire and
ash door hinge pins. Lift and remove all three
doors. Remove four screw holding side warmer
door in place. Remove screws holding ash catch
in place. Replace doors, screws and retainers
after installation.
Flue Boot Assembly
As you are facing the stove from the back, attach
the assembly to the stove as follows:
1. Remove protective paper from tape on edge of
flue boot. Attach felt insulation strips (shipped
in oven) to flange on flue boot, ensuring entire
edge of boot is covered.
2. Remove three (3) screws from the stove body
below the lower flue opening.
3. Slip the flue boot assembly over the damper rod
and onto the six bolts on the back of the stove,
ensuring the square tube fits into the hole.
4. Install and tighten six washers and nuts found in
the hardware package in the ash pan.
5. Replace and tighten three bottom screws.
If you remove all items noted above, the stove
weighs about 150 pounds and can be lifted by two
people; otherwise you may need three people – two
on the firebox side and one on the oven side. If you
are working in tight quarters, have another person
slide the skid out from under the stove.
Cabinet Assembly
Never attempt to move the stove by holding the
cabinet or trim around the cooking surface.
We recommend you assemble your stove and
chimney in the following order:
1. Flue boot assembly (below)
2. Stove / flue boot heat shields (optional -page 14)
3. Stove pipe / chimney
4. Pipe heat shield (optional – page 13)
5. Firebrick (page 35)
Carefully unpack the cabinet.
1. From the back of the stove, have two people lift
the cabinet into place on the stove. Align the
holes in the bases of the cabinet brackets with
the holes in the left and right side trim rails.
2. While one person steadies the cabinet the other
will drop the three bolts provided through the
holes in the left side of the bracket and the rear
hole of the right bracket. Position the cabinet as
far back on the stove as the bolt holes will
allow, leaving a slight air space between the
cooktop and splashback. Attach locknuts to the
bolts and tighten.
3. Screw the bolt through the front hole in the right
bracket into the threaded hole in the trim rail.
4. Insert the lift handle through the left bracket.
Bolt it to the left cook plate using the bolt and
nut provided. The handle should pivot freely so
it can be swung in and out of the stops on the
left cabinet bracket. Tighten the nut securely so
it will not work free during normal use.
5. Remove the three 2” bolts fastened inside the
cabinet and re-install the bolts on the outside
back of the cabinet. Hang the ash tool and
damper tool on these bolts.
Pipe Damper
A pipe damper is optional and should only be
required if the top of the chimney is more than 20’
above the top of the stove. If required, damper
installation should be completed prior to final
assembly of the chimney.
If you are using single-wall pipe, your dealer can
supply and install a damper. The damper should be
installed 6 – 12” above the top of the upper cabinet.
1. Drill a ¼“ hole through the middle front of pipe.
2. To mark the location for the damper hole in the
back of the pipe, push the sharp end of the
damper rod into the back wall of the pipe. Drill
a ¼” hole through the back of the pipe.
3. Follow the instructions supplied with the
damper and install the damper inside the pipe
with the handle facing the front of the pipe.
4. Ensure the damper rotates freely in the pipe.
If you are using double-wall pipe, your dealer can
supply a pipe section with a damper pre-installed.
(See page 15 “Rough-in Diagrams & Dimensions”)
reduce the risk of fire, follow the
installation instructions. Failure to follow
the instructions may result in property
damage, bodily injury or even death. The
authority having jurisdiction (building
department or fire authorities) should be
Important! Read this entire manual
before you install and use your new
cookstove. If this stove is not properly
installed, a house fire may result. To
consulted before installation to determine
the need to obtain a permit.
the flue pipe from the flue boot to the top of the
cabinet; the main section covers the stove body and
flue boot. Instructions are included with the shield.
NOTE: Read the sections on clearances, floor
protection and chimneys before you begin
installation. Follow building codes, installation
requirements and restrictions in your area. Contact
your local building or fire officials if you have
any questions or concerns.
Reducing Clearances
Many decorative alternatives are available to reduce
clearances to combustibles. Contact your dealer and
/ or local fire and building officials to ensure these
alternatives meet applicable standards in your area.
In the United States refer to National Fire
Protection Association Standard 211. In Canada
refer to the Installation Code for Solid Fuel
Appliances and Equipment (CAN3-B365-M84).
Seal all holes in walls and floors near the stove.
Preparing the area in which the stove will be located
will save you from having to move the stove more
than once. Refer to the sections on Clearances and
Floor Protection in this manual.
Floor Protection
If this stove is being installed on a combustible
floor, a noncombustible floor protector is required
to protect the floor from combustion and hot embers
that may fall from the fire door or upper loading
plate. At least the following areas shall be covered:
1. Under the product,
2. Sixteen inches (18” or 450 mm. in Canada)
beyond the front and 8 inches (203 mm.)
beyond each side of the fuel loading and ash
removal doors,
3. Under the chimney connector and 2 inches (50
mm) beyond each side,
Dual Fuel Model 1842-G: Installation, adjustment
and service must be performed by a qualified gas
Clearances, Heat Shields
& Floor Protectors
Wood-burning appliances and chimneys radiate
heat in all directions. Heat radiated towards nearby
walls, floors, ceilings and furnishings can cause a
fire hazard if proper clearances and shielding are
not provided.
and must be a continuous noncombustible surface.
Clearances are distances that must be maintained
between hot stove and chimney parts and nearby
combustible materials – the greater the distance, the
more the air will cool before contacting
combustibles. Cool air circulating between the stove
and surrounding materials carries heat away and
eliminates the risk of combustion. Nothing other
than non-combustible heat shields should be placed
in the clearance area. Do not put insulation in the
clearance area between the stove and heat shield or
between the heat shield and walls. Do not store fire
wood in the clearance area. As wood dries, the
temperature at which it will ignite decreases. This
cookstove has been tested and certified for safe
operation, providing these guidelines are followed.
Clearances listed in this manual must be
maintained to all combustible materials; including
doors, trim, furniture, decorations, drapes, fabric,
boxes, paper, etc.
Heat shields can be used to reduce rear clearances
(chart page 12.). The shield mounts on the back of
your stove and flue boot. The upper section covers
Step (a):
Calculate R of proposed system.
4" brick of C = 1.25, therefore Rbrick = 1/C =
1/1.25 = 0.80
1/8" mineral board of k = 0.29, therefore
Rmin.bd. = 1/0.29 x 0.125 = 0.431
Total R = Rbrick + Rmineral board = 0.8 +
0.431 = 1.231
Step (b):
Compare proposed system R of 1.231 to
specified R of 0.60. Since proposed
system R is greater than required, the
system is acceptable.
conductance = C =
Thermal conductivity
= k = (Btu)(inch) = W = _Btu
(hr)(ft²)(ºF) (m)(ºK) (hr)(ft)(ºF)
The thermal insulating layer must have an Rvalue of 0.60 or greater and must be covered by
non-combustible material such as metal, tile, stone,
etc. Sheet metal pads and grouted ceramic floor tiles
are acceptable floor protection.
To determine if a proposed alternate floor protector
meets these requirements, follow this procedure:
1) Convert specification to R-value:
i If R-value is given - no conversion is
ii If k-factor is given with a required thickness
(T) in inches: R = 1/k x T
iii If C-factor is given: R = 1/C
= R = (ft²)(hr)(ºF) = (m²)(ºK)
Gas Installation (Model 1842-G)
This stove can be connected to a standard 20pound “barbecue” tank, if all requirements
listed below and in the safety instructions on
page 3 are met. Connection hardware can be
purchased from a local hardware or barbecue
retailer. The propane tank must be located
outside of the building.
2) Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate
floor protector.
i Use the formula in step (1) to convert values
not expressed as "R".
ii For multiple layers, add R-values of each
layer to determine the overall R-value.
When installing a Model 1842-G dual fuel (wood
and propane) stove, the installation must comply
with all codes and standards for both wood-burning
and gas appliances. If codes or requirements vary
between the two standards, the more stringent
restrictions must be observed.
3) If the overall R-value of the system is greater
than the R-value of the specified floor protector,
the alternate is acceptable.
• The specified floor protector should have an Rvalue of 0.60
• The proposed alternate is 4" brick with a Cfactor of 1.25 over 1/8" mineral board with a kfactor of 0.29.
Gas Supplies
Before connecting to the supply systems, be sure
that the installation conforms with the local codes
or, in the absence of local codes, with the National
Fuel Code, ANSI Z223.1 latest edition or CSAB149 installation codes.
supply system at test pressures equal to or less than
1/2 psig (3.5kPa). The gas supply pressure for
checking the regulator setting shall be at least
eleven inches water column.
Gas Piping to Stove
With liquid propane gas, the size of the piping to
the stove is determined by the length of the run
form the supply to the stove, and should be
determined by your gas fitter. When connecting
pipe to the die cast regulator, use two wrenches.
Excess pressure or tightening the pipe too tight can
cause the regulator to crack, resulting in a gas leak
or a possible fire or explosion. Make sure if flexible
connectors are used in connecting the appliance to
the gas supply, they are CSA approved. Poorly
designed connectors can be a source of gas leaks.
Even if CSA approved flexible connectors are used,
the customer should be cautioned against kinking or
damaging the connection when moving or cleaning
the range. This could cause a gas leak.
Gas Leak Testing
After the final gas connection has been made, the
burner valves should be closed and the gas supply
and manual shutoff turned on. All connections in
the gas supply line and in the range should be tested
with soap suds or an electronic “sniffer” for leaks.
Detecting a leak:
If a leak is present, bubbles will appear. If you
detect a leak, follow these directions:
Shut off the gas supply before attempting to fix the
leak. The leak should be stopped by tightening the
joint or unscrewing completely and applying
additional pipe dope and re-tightening. Turn the gas
supply on and re-test. Any factory connections
which may have been disturbed should be retested.
Suitable pipe thread sealant, which is approved for
use with liquid propane gas, must be used. Be sure
to use this thread sealant on all pipe connections.
Manual Shutoff
A match should never be used when testing for
leaks. All fittings have been tightened and tested
at the factory. If a leak is detected, tighten the
fitting. Don’t use pipe dope on factory fittings.
Install a manual shutoff valve in the gas line in an
accessible location near the unit. Know where the
gas valve is so you can shut off the gas to the stove
Gas Burner / Grate Installation:
Pressure Testing
Place caps on burner bases so tabs on caps fit into
grooves. Place grates over burners with flat edge of
grate matching flat edge of burner base.
The appliance and its individual shutoff valve must
be disconnected from the gas supply piping system
during any pressure testing of the system at test
pressures in excess of 1/3 psig (3.5kPa). The
appliance must be isolated from the gas supply
piping system by closing its individual manual
shutoff valve during any pressure testing of the gas
Chart of Clearances
The following clearances must be observed. If two or more clearances to combustibles contradict each other, the greater distance
applies and must be maintained.
Model 1842-G: Observe all instructions on the gas appliance rating plate for minimum clearances to any adjacent vertical combustible
surfaces. Gas ranges require a CSA approved stainless steel gas flex line or flexible copper coil ½” in diameter and at least three feet
long so the stove can be moved for service.
MODEL 1840
No Heat Shield
Using Single Wall Pipe
With Heat Shield
Using Double Wall Pipe
MODEL 1842
No Heat Shield
Using Single Wall Pipe
With Heat Shield
Using Double Wall Pipe
G = vertical distance from cooking surface to combustibles above the stove.
Note: A certified double-wall stove pipe must be used to maintain 6” clearance (dimension E) from pipe to combustibles. The
approved stove pipe must extend from the chimney to the stove.
Note: These are factory-recommended clearances. Local, state or provincial building and fire codes take precedence and must be
observed. Clearances are subject to change without notice.
When heat shield is installed, dimensions B and F are taken from heat shield. (“Heat shield” refers to complete stove/-pipe shield kit.)
Dimension E is taken from outside edge of pipe.
Optional Heat Shield Kit
A heat shield kit is available for your cookstove. It
allows you to substantially reduce required
clearances to combustibles. (See “Chart of
Clearances”, previous page.) The heat shield kit
(#3285 stove shield, #3286 pipe shield) covers the
stove body, flue boot and stove pipe. Heat shields
are installed simply and easily. (Phillips
screwdriver, drill and 1/8” drill bit required.)
As you look at the stove from the back, there are
four sections of heat shield: 1. Stove pipe shield
(top center), 2. Oven side shield (left), 3. Firebox
shield (right) and 4. Flue boot shield (center)
Stove Pipe Shield:
1. Place the first section of pipe on the flue collar.
Drill three 1/8” holes through the pipe and flue
collar - back-center, left side and right side.
2. Fasten the pipe to the collar with three 3/8”
sheet metal screws.
3. Place a shield bracket against the back of the
pipe, with tabs facing up and the center tab
against the pipe. Carefully bend the bracket so
that it wraps around the pipe, with the side tabs
against the sides of the pipe. Repeat the process
with the second bracket. Set one bracket aside.
4. With the bracket sitting flush with the flue boot,
drill a 1/8” pilot hole through the hole in the
center tab and the first wall of the pipe. (Do not
drill through the inner wall of the pipe.) Fasten
the tab to the pipe with one of the 3/8” sheet
metal screws provided. Repeat for two side tabs.
5. Place one section of shield, with three large
holes at the bottom, on the flue boot against the
bracket. Align the center hole on the shield with
the center hole on the bracket. Fasten with 3/8”
sheet metal screw. Repeat for sides.
6. Fasten the second bracket to the inside of the
top of the heat shield, with the tabs facing up,
using three 3/8” screws.
7. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole through the hole in the
center tab of the bracket and the back-center of
the first wall of pipe. (Do not drill through the
pipe’s inner wall.) Fasten the tab to the pipe
with a 3/8” sheet metal screw. Repeat for sides.
Flue Boot Shield:
1. Place the flue boot shield in place between the
left and right shields you have installed above.
2. Align the six holes in the flue boot shield with
the six holes in the side shields.
3. Fasten with six ½” sheet metal screws provided.
Oven Shield (left side, as you face back of stove):
1. Remove the four screws spaced down the left
side of the stove, directly above the outside of
the stove’s left leg.
2. Remove six screws from left flange of flue boot.
3. Put the left side shield in place, aligning the four
holes in the shield with the four holes from
which you have just removed the screws.
4. Replace the four screws and tighten in place.
5. Attach right side of shield to the flange on the
flue boot using three 3/8” sheet metal screws.
Firebox Shield (right side):
1. Remove the three screws from the right side
panel at the back of the stove.
2. Remove six screws from right flange of flue
3. Put the right side shield in place, aligning the
three holes in the shield with the three holes
from which you have just removed the screws.
4. Replace the three screws and tighten in place.
5. Attach the left side of the shield to the flange on
the flue boot using three ½” sheet metal screws.
Rough-in Diagrams & Dimensions
Drawings and dimensions provided for reference only, showing approximate dimensions for rough-in purposes. Ensure
that no ceiling or floor supports will be cut or compromised for chimney installation.
Wood-Burning Basics
A wood-burning cookstove is a unique appliance.
The chimney, air intakes, dampers, Fireview door,
wood and firebox all work together as one system to
determine how efficiently and long your fire will
burn, and how temperatures will be distributed
throughout the cooking surface oven and warmers.
Your Fireview range features two types of dampers:
1. An oven slide damper located at the back left
side of the cooktop. This damper controls how
much of the heat generated in the firebox goes
directly up the chimney, and how much is
diverted to heat the oven. When you are first
starting your stove, you will want air to flow
freely up the chimney for maximum draft. As
the fire is established, you can close down the
oven damper to provide heat to the oven and to
reduce the speed at which your wood burns.
Proper operation of the oven damper is
discussed on Page 27 – “Oven Cooking”.
2. Two stainless steel tubular slide dampers,
located on the left side of the firebox. These
innovative dampers slide horizontally and
control the amount of air the chimney is allowed
to draw through the firebox. One damper is
located below the grate in the firebox, providing
maximum draft through the fire wood. The other
is located just above the grate, providing
additional combustion air. The design of these
dampers allows precise control of air flow.
When you first start a fire, both of these
dampers should be in the “full open” position
(pushed to the back) to provide maximum air
flow through the fire wood. As the fire
establishes itself, adjust the dampers to control
oven, cooktop and room temperatures, and the
burn rate of your fire. By looking through the
Fireview door as you adjust the dampers, you
will learn how these dampers control your fire.
The Chimney
The chimney is more than a pipe which allows
smoke to escape. The height of your chimney and
the resulting pressure difference between the stove
and the top of the chimney outside your home
create “draft” – a natural flow of air from the room,
through the stove and up the chimney. Draft
provides oxygen for combustion. The chimney is
the most important component in the operation of
your stove. If it is blocked, if air movement is
impeded by structures near the top of the chimney,
if it is too large in diameter, or if the “stack” is not
high enough, it will be difficult or impossible to
obtain the draft needed for a good fire.
Air Intakes
Draft from the chimney will draw air into the
firebox from a number of sources:
• “Primary” combustion air enters through two
slide dampers located on the left side of the
firebox. This is the main (“primary”) source of
air for the ongoing operation of your stove.
• “Secondary air” is drawn through a tube
entering the top of the firebox at the back of the
stove. Once your firebox gets up to operating
temperature, this secondary air re-ignites smoke
and gases above the wood. This provides
additional heat and results in greater efficiency,
longer fires, less creosote build-up, and a very
clean burn. The secondary air also provides a
“wash” over the glass of your Fireview door to
reduce smoke build-up on the glass.
• “Start-up air” - When starting a fire, or adding
heavy logs, you will want to open the ash door
(located below the Fireview door) slightly, to
allow more air into the firebox. This additional
air will help the new wood ignite faster, getting
or returning the firebox to high temperatures.
The ash door must be closed after the fire is
established – not more than fifteen minutes
after lighting.
Fireview Door
The obvious function of the Fireview door is to
allow you to see and enjoy your fire. The less
obvious function is to allow you to conveniently
monitor and adjust the fire without opening a door
or cook plate and letting heat escape. You will
quickly learn how the dampers affect stove
operation, when and how to adjust the dampers, and
when to add wood to a dying fire.
• Avoid operating the stove in a manner that will
result in breakage or cracking of the Fireview
glass. – striking or slamming the door or glass,
splashing liquids on hot glass, etc.
Clean glass with low alkaline content
commercial stove glass cleaners, available from
your dealer.
Do not clean the glass when hot. Do not clean
with abrasive cleansers.
Do not operate the stove with a broken or
cracked Fireview glass.
Replace glass only with glass supplied from the
manufacturer or distributor of this appliance.
See “Fireview Glass Cleaning & Replacement”,
page 34.
in the wood and more energy is being used to
create heat. As the temperature of the wood
increases, the wood will begin to smoke,
releasing hydrocarbon gases and tars. When
these combustible gases combine with oxygen
and high temperatures, combustion occurs,
further raising the temperature and creating
more gases. When the temperature becomes
high enough, there will be two fires in the
firebox – the main fire in and around the logs,
and the “secondary” burn above the main fire.
This represents a clean, efficient burn. Smoke
and gases make up about half of the heat energy
in your firewood.
3. Charcoal: When most of the gases in the wood
have vaporized, the remaining charcoal will
combine with oxygen for a hot, steady fire that
emits consistent heat and very little smoke or
flame. Charcoal makes up approximately half of
the heat energy in your wood.
Wood is the fuel that drives your fire. Often
forgotten or overlooked is the fact that the
performance of the stove is directly related to the
quality of the fuel. Just as you wouldn’t expect to
run a high-performance car on low-octane gasoline,
you should not run your Fireview stove on wet
“punky” wood.
The firebox of your Fireview wood-burning
cookstove is a state-of-the-art apparatus that has
been engineered to provide high output, high
efficiency, and long life. It is the most advanced
firebox available on any wood-burning cookstove.
With its large (1.6 cubic foot) capacity, the firebox
will provide up to 60,000 BTU’s of heat per hour,
and its 21” depth will easily accommodate 18” logs.
The bottom of the firebox houses a heavy-duty steel
wood grate. This grate holds the wood and has
many holes, allowing combustion air to pass up
through the wood, and ash to fall into the ash bin
below for removal.
The best and most satisfying performance of your
Fireview stove will be achieved by burning highquality hardwoods that have been split, stacked and
“seasoned” under cover and out of precipitation for
at least a full year. Burning wet, damp, inadequately
seasoned wood will yield steaming, sizzling fires,
excessive smoke, low heat output and excessive and
dangerous build-up of soot and creosote. This can
lead to deterioration of your stove and chimney, and
to fire hazards. Do not burn skids, pressure treated,
painted or lacquered wood, saltwater driftwood, or
any materials other than wood. Use of improper
fuels can damage your stove, cause safety and
health hazards, and void your warranty.
As noted above, the Fireview’s firebox incorporates
many unique features - the viewing door, secondary
air supply and exclusive tubular slide dampers. The
firebox is lined with “fire brick” that has been
specifically designed for the Fireview. The brick is
reinforced with stainless steel strands to resist
cracking and breaking, and is pre-fired before
installation to minimize the need for “break-in”. See
“Break-In Fire” on page 23.
The Fire in Firewood – 3 Elements of Firewood
Three elements of firewood enhance or inhibit
proper burning – water, smoke/ gases, and charcoal.
1. Water: When fire wood is first cut, over half of
the content is water. After a year of seasoning,
as noted above, more than 60% of this moisture
will evaporate, leaving dry wood that is ready to
provide good clean heat. Heat energy is required
to evaporate moisture, so burning damp wood
will result in sluggish, hissing low fires that
produce little heat and are difficult to sustain.
2. Smoke & Gases: As the wood in your fire dries
out, less energy is being used to evaporate water
Chimney Requirements & Installation
Flue Pipes
Flue pipes carry exhaust gases from the stove’s flue
collar to the chimney. The flue pipe assembly is an
extremely important part of a wood-burning system
and must be planned and installed carefully.
This stove must be connected to 1) a listed 6” Type
HT (2100°F) chimney per UL 103 or ULC S629, or
2) a code-approved masonry chimney with a flue
liner. The chimney size should not be less than or
more than three times greater than the crosssectional area of the flue collar. Prior to installing
your stove into a masonry chimney, have the
chimney inspected by a qualified mason. An
unlined masonry chimney should not be used – a
proper liner should be installed.
The checklist below is based on requirements found
in the Canadian Standards Association’s
“Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning
Appliances and Equipment” (Standard B365). It
should be followed when installing or inspecting a
flue pipe assembly.
1. Single-wall flue pipe assemblies must not
exceed 3 meters (10 feet) in overall length.
2. The assembly should be as short and direct as
3. A single-wall flue pipe assembly must have no
more than two 90 degree elbows; use 45 degree
elbow, wherever possible.
4. Do not use galvanized flue pipe. The coating
can vaporize at high temperatures, emitting
poisonous gases and leaving the pipe thin and
5. Flue pipes for wood-burning appliances need to
be thicker than those used for other fire-burning
appliances - 24-gauge for 150 mm (6”).
6. Joints between pipes should overlap at least
30mm. (1-1/4”).
7. Each joint must be secured with three sheet
metal screws (except for one expansion joint, if
necessary and as noted below).
8. The assembly should be constructed to allow for
expansion. Elbows in an assembly allow it to
expand. Straight pipe assemblies should have
one section left unscrewed and secured with an
inspection wrap clamped around the joint.
9. Horizontal pipe should slope up towards the
chimney at least 20 mm. per meter (1/4” per ft.).
10. One end of the flue pipe assembly must be
securely fastened to the flue collar of the
appliance and the other end must be securely
fastened to the chimney.
11. There must be provision for cleaning and
inspecting pipes by removal of the pipe.
Removal of pipes should not require that the
appliance be moved.
12. The crimped ends of pipes should point towards
the appliance so that condensation drains to the
Connect this stove to a 6” chimney. A larger
chimney may result in poor draft and / or reduced
oven temperatures. The chimney and installation
must be inspected by a local building inspector.
Existing Chimneys
If you plan to connect your cookstove to an existing
chimney, you should have the chimney thoroughly
inspected prior to connection to ensure its suitability
for use. This inspection should be performed by an
experienced professional. Your retailer can provide
this service or refer you to a qualified professional.
Masonry chimneys: Existing masonry chimneys
must be carefully and completely checked for
deterioration, including damaged or deteriorating
mortar, cracks in the drip cap, damaged bricks and /
or loose flashings where the chimney meets the roof
line. The liner should be 6” in diameter and should
be inspected for cracks and / or misalignment. A
stainless steel liner should be installed if there are
cracks in the chimney. A chimney may not draw
properly if there are cracks in it.
Pre-fabricated metal chimneys: Your stove can be
connected to a pre-fabricated chimney approved to
ULC Standard S629 in Canada and UL 103HT in
the United States. The metal chimney should be
inspected for a warped or buckled liner, corrosion
of the outer shell, loose flashing and / or lack of
proper support. Discoloration of the metal shell near
a joint indicates the insulation has settled - the
chimney should be replaced to ensure safe and
efficient operation.
11. During a chimney fire the chimney connector
may vibrate violently. The connector must be
securely attached to the pipe and chimney, and
individual sections must be securely attached
12. Do not connect this stove to an air distribution
appliance and does not leak out through the
joints between pipe sections.
13. A flue pipe must never pass through a
combustible floor or ceiling, concealed attic,
roof space or closet.
14. Flue pipe assemblies must be stable and secure.
To check its stability, grasp the assembly at its
mid-point and shake. If properly constructed,
the assembly will have very little movement.
Connecting to Pre-Fabricated Chimney:
When connecting your cookstove to a prefabricated
metal chimney, you must precisely follow the
manufacturer's installation instructions. Use only
Type HT (2100 deg. F), prefabricated metal
chimneys listed per UL 103 or ULC S629
Stovepipe-to-Chimney Connection
1. The stovepipe-to-chimney connector should be
24 gauge (or thicker) sheet metal and 6” in
2. The section of chimney connector closest to the
stove should be screwed to the flue collar of the
stove. Individual sections of the chimney
connector must be secured with at least three
sheet metal screws. The last section of pipe
should be securely attached to the chimney.
Inspect and correct to ensure there are no
weaknesses in the system.
3. Crimped ends of pipe should point downward
toward the stove so that soot, creosote or
condensation in the pipe will drop into a cleanout or fall into the stove.
4. The chimney connector should be above the
upper cabinet before any elbow is installed. No
more than two 90 degree turns should be used.
5. A horizontal run of stovepipe should be no
longer than 4 feet long. A vertical run of pipe to
a pre-fabricated metal chimney should be no
longer than 8 feet.
6. Do not use single wall smoke pipe as an outside
chimney. Creosote will build up quickly in the
pipe, leading to a chimney fire.
7. A chimney connector shall not pass through a
combustible ceiling, attic, roof space, closet,
floor or similar concealed space. Where passage
through a wall or partition of combustible
construction is desired, the installation shall
conform with CSA B365.
8. The entire chimney connector must be exposed
and accessible for cleaning and inspection.
9. Galvanized stovepipe should not be used. When
exposed to high temperatures created by smoke
and exhaust gases, galvanized pipe can release
toxic fumes.
10. Horizontal runs of chimney connector should
slope upward 1/4” per foot going from the stove
toward the chimney.
Make sure the size of the chimney flue is
appropriate for the stove. The Fireview requires a 6"
(152 mm) inside diameter flue for new installations.
A 6” diameter flue provides adequate draft and
performance. You can use an 8" (203 mm.)
diameter existing flue with a reducer. An oversized
flue contributes to creosote accumulation. When
purchasing a prefabricated chimney to install with
your stove, be sure to also purchase from the same
manufacturer, the wall pass-through (or ceiling
support package), "T" section package, fire-stops
(when needed), insulation shield, roof flashing,
chimney cap, and other needed accessories. Follow
the manufacturer’s instructions when installing
chimney and accessories. In addition, be sure to
maintain all manufacturers’ recommendations for
proper clearances to the chimney. There are two
ways to install a prefabricated metal chimney:
• An interior installation where the chimney
passes inside the residence through the ceiling
and roof.
• An exterior installation where the chimney
passes through the wall behind the stove then up
the outside of the residence.
Whenever possible, choose an interior chimney. An
interior chimney heats up more quickly and retains
its heat; thus promotes a better draft and
discourages the formation of creosote. An exterior
chimney does not benefit from the warmth of being
surrounded by the building, so it typically operates
at lower flue temperatures than an interior chimney.
An exterior chimney’s draft is not as strong and
may experience increased creosote accumulation.
Connections to Pre-Fabricated Metal Chimney:
Chimney Connection Systems – Thimbles (Wall Penetration Assemblies): Use one of these connection
methods when the connection from the stove to the chimney is made through a combustible wall.
A. Brick Masonry: Minimum 3.5-inch thick brick masonry all
framed into combustible wall with a minimum of 2-inch brick
separation from clay liner to combustibles. The fireclay liner
shall run from outer surface of brick wall to, but not beyond,
the inner surface of chimney flue liner and shall be firmly
cemented in place.
B. Insulated Sleeve: Solid-insulated, listed factory-built
chimney length of the same inside diameter as the
chimney connector and having 1-inch or more of
insulation with a minimum 9-inch air space between the
outer wall of the chimney length and combustibles.
C. Ventilated Thimble: Sheet steel chimney connector,
minimum 24 gauge in thickness, with a ventilated thimble,
minimum 24 gauge in thickness, having two 1-inch air
channels, separated from combustibles by a minimum of
6-inch of glass fiber insulation. Opening shall be covered,
and thimble supported with a sheet steel support,
minimum 24 gauge in thickness.
Chimney Section Pass-through: Solid insulated, listed
factory-built chimney length with an inside diameter 2-inch
larger than the chimney connector and having 1-inch or
more of insulation, serving as a pass-through for a single
wall sheet steel chimney connector of minimum 24 gauge
thickness, with a minimum 2-inch air space between the
outer wall of chimney section and combustibles. Minimum
length of chimney section shall be 12-inch chimney section
spaced 1-inch away from connector using sheet steel
support plates on both ends of chimney section. Opening
shall be covered, and chimney section supported on both
sides with sheet steel support securely fastened to wall
surfaces of minimum 24 gauge thickness. Fasteners used
to secure chimney section shall not penetrate chimney flue
Chimney Height
As a general rule, the taller the chimney, the
stronger the draft will be. If a chimney is too short,
inadequate draft will probably result. If the chimney
is too tall, excessive draft can result and may lead to
a run-away fire and over-firing of the stove.
Inadequate draft is a nuisance; excessive draft can
be a safety hazard and can warp the stove.
Chimney Clearances
The chimney must:
• extend a minimum of 14 feet above the collar of
the stove
• extend a minimum of 3 feet above the point
where it passes through the roof
• be a minimum of 2 feet above structures or
obstructions (walls, trees, towers, etc.) within 10
feet of the top of the pipe
These figures produce the minimum chimney height
allowed for safety reasons. You may require a
chimney higher than this for performance reasons.
A stove located on the top floor of a building (i.e.
main floor of a one-storey building) may require a
taller chimney to function properly, even though
minimum heights set out in the building code have
been observed. The top of the chimney should
generally be a minimum of 16 feet (4.9 meters)
above the floor the stove sits on.
Cold or Over-Sized Flue or Liner
As hot air rises in a cold chimney, it cools and loses
buoyancy, impeding draft up the chimney. It is
important that the main run of the chimney not be
exposed to excessively cold air. An outside chimney
that is exposed to cold air can be very hard to heat
and establish draft. It is preferable to have the
chimney enclosed within the house. Failing that,
enclosing the chimney in an insulated structure or
installing high-temp insulation between the liner
and the chimney shell will help reduce the heat loss.
Chimney Function & Draft
As the air in your stove and chimney is heated by
the fire, the warm air becomes lighter than cooler
air in the room and outside the building. The lighter
warm air rises up the chimney creating a vacuum, or
negative pressure, in the firebox. Air rushes into the
firebox through dampers and any open doors on the
firebox to fill this vacuum. As the temperature in
the firebox and chimney increase, this negative
pressure or “draft” becomes stronger. Once the fire
is burning strongly, the chimney is effectively
sucking combustion air through the firebox. At this
point, the flow of air must be controlled with the
slide dampers on the side of the stove.
Heat and smoke move more quickly up a smaller
liner; more slowly up a larger liner. Slow-moving
gases cool and lose their buoyancy, reducing draft.
For best results, the liner should have the same
internal area as the flue collar of the stove. A larger
chimney or liner may result in poor draw and
reduced oven temperatures.
“Stack Effect” & Negative Pressure in House
Warm air in a building rises, creating a slight
vacuum or negative pressure on lower levels and
slightly positive pressure on upper floors. This
negative pressure on lower levels can impede
chimney draft for a stove located there.
Furnaces, clothes dryers, exhaust fans and other
outside-vented appliances draw or push air out of
the house. This creates negative pressure which can
make it difficult for your chimney to draw properly.
Such a situation can cause your stove to back-puff
or smoke when these other appliances are running
Many factors affect draft and determine whether
your stove will perform well, adequately or poorly.
You will obtain the best performance from your
stove if draft problems are identified and corrected.
Most problems can be resolved with relatively
simple changes to the chimney or other influencing
Draft in an unheated chimney should be between
.01” and .15” water column. Ask your dealer to
confirm the draft.
3. Opening a window slightly on a calm (windless)
day alleviates any of the above symptoms.
4. The house is equipped with a well-sealed vapor
barrier and tight fitting windows and/or has any
powered devices that exhaust house air.
5. There is excessive condensation on windows in
6. A ventilation system is installed in the house.
(especially when a stove door or cook plate is
opened), and can make it difficult to start and
establish a good fire. This problem can be
especially pronounced in well-sealed buildings.
Negative pressure can result in the hazardous
discharge of carbon monoxide gases into the house.
Provision for outside combustion air may be
necessary to ensure that the stove does not
discharge products of combustion into the house.
Guidelines to determine the need for additional
combustion air may not be adequate for every
situation. If in doubt, it is advisable to provide
additional air. Outside combustion air may be
required if:
1. The stove does not draw steadily, smoke rollout
occurs, fuel burns poorly, or back-drafts occur
whether or not there is combustion present.
2. Existing fuel-fired equipment in the house, such
as fireplaces or other heating appliances, smell,
do not operate properly, suffer smoke roll-out
when opened, or back-draft whether or not there
is combustion present.
If these or other indications suggest that infiltration
air is inadequate, additional combustion air should
be provided from the outdoors. Outside air can be
provided to the appliance by the following means:
1. Indirect method: outside air is ducted to a point
no closer than 12 inches (300 mm.) from the
appliance, to avoid affecting the performance of
the appliance.
2. A mechanical ventilation system: if the house
has a ventilation system (air change or heat
recovery), the ventilation system may be able to
provide sufficient combustion make-up air for
the stove. The ventilation system might need to
be re-balanced by a ventilation technician after
installation of the stove.
Operating Your Fireview Stove
Once you have read this manual and completed a
proper and safe installation, you are ready to
operate your cookstove. If you follow these
instructions, you will quickly learn how to optimize
the performance of your stove.
Operating Cautions:
• Obtain a fire extinguisher, familiarize yourself
and family members with its use, and keep it
near the stove.
• Ensure that everyone in your family has read
this manual and is familiar with basic operating
and safety procedures. Ideally, have all family
members on hand for the first fire, so they can
become familiar with real-life operation.
• Keep children, pets, furniture and combustibles
well away from the stove.
• The stove will become hot quickly, and will
remain hot during burning and even after the
fire dies. Unlike traditional gas or electric
stoves, the entire stove will become very hot.
Stove doors, handles, dampers and the cooktop
become extremely hot. Use only the tool
provided or a fire glove to operate these parts.
Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar
liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in this
heater. Keep all such liquids well away from
the heater while it is in use.
Break-in Fire
The fire brick in your stove is reinforced with
stainless steel strands to resist cracking. It has been
pre-fired at the factory to reduce the need for breakin. You will need to have at least one break-in fire
to evaporate moisture that may have accumulated.
A break-in fire is a small, controlled fire that allows
the fire brick to heat and cool slowly, avoiding
thermal shock that could crack or break the brick.
1. Build a small fire with newspaper and kindling
wood. (See “Starting a Fire” and “Maintaining a
Fire” below.) As the fire builds, add a few
pieces of kindling as necessary to maintain a
4. Open both slide dampers on the left side of the
stove. The dampers are “OPEN” when all the
way to the BACK of the stove, and “CLOSED”
when all the way to the FRONT of the stove.
5. Slide the oven bypass damper on the rear left of
the cooktop all the way to the right (OPEN).
6. Open the Fireview door.
7. Check for downdraft. If cold air is coming out
of the firebox, “torch” the flue to reverse the air
flow: Roll a sheet of newspaper, light one end,
and push the burning end into the flue opening
to the right of the top right rear of the firebox.
(In the event of an extreme downdraft, you may
have to wait for the flow to reverse on its own.)
8. Using a barbecue lighter, match or paper
“torch”, light the crumpled paper.
9. Leave the Fireview door cracked open.
10. Monitor the fire through the Fireview door.
11. When the kindling fire is well established and
the newspaper has burned off, open the cook
plate or Fireview door and add about a third of
the larger pieces. Close the door. Repeat this
process until the fire is well established and a
bed of coals has begun to develop on the grate.
At this point you can begin adding larger split
logs to the fire. Be careful not to strike the
Fireview glass with the firewood. (Glass
breakage is not covered by warranty.)
small fire. Use the slide dampers on the side of
the stove to keep the fire to a low flame.
2. After an hour, let the fire die. Keep doors closed
to avoid sudden cooling of the brick.
As the stove heats, you will notice some smoking.
This is a normal part of break-in, as finishes on the
stove “season” and traces of lubricants burn off.
Ventilate the room if you find the odors offensive.
Starting a Fire
NOTE: Please read this entire section completely
before lighting your first fire.
The slide dampers on the left side of the stove are
OPEN when they are pushed all the way to the
BACK of the stove; CLOSED when they are pulled
all the way to the FRONT of the stove.
Maintaining a Fire
You now should have a steady fire established in
the firebox, and you can use the dampers and a
supply of additional wood to maintain the room,
oven and cooktop temperatures you desire.
1. Using the tool provided or a fire glove, slide the
dampers on the side of the stove forward
(closed) about ¾ of the way to reduce the supply
of air to the fire and slow the fire. Do not touch
hot damper handles with your bare hand.
2. Using the tool provided, close the oven damper
on the back of the cooktop by sliding the control
to the left. (Do not touch hot damper handles
with your bare hand.) This will divert heat
across the top of the oven, down the right side,
across the bottom of the oven and out the
bottom of the flue boot. It also minimizes the
amount of heat going directly up the chimney
and maximizes heat going into the oven and
room. Closing the oven damper increases the
Use the tool provided or a fire glove. Do not touch
hot damper handles with your bare hand.
1. Split about 12 – 15 pieces of dry kindling,
roughly ½” x ½” x 18”, and 12-15 larger pieces,
roughly 2” x 2” x 18”.
2. Crumple a few sheets of newspaper into loose
balls and place on grate in bottom of firebox.
3. Place the kindling loosely on top of the paper.
3. Monitor the fire through the Fireview door. Use
the slide dampers on the side of the stove to
regulate the flame. Once the firebox has reached
good operating temperatures, you will probably
notice a “secondary burn” of smoke and gases
above the wood. This indicates that your stove
is operating very cleanly and efficiently. (If you
were to look at the top of your chimney outside
the house, you would see very little smoke.)
resistance on the chimney / draft system. If the
chimney has not heated adequately to maintain
proper draft, you may notice some “backpuffing” from the stove. If this occurs, open the
oven damper half-way to increase the amount of
heat going up the chimney. As the chimney
warms, slowly close the damper.
As the fire dwindles, add wood. You will find it
easier to maintain consistent temperatures and to
ignite new wood if you reload the stove while the
firebox is still hot and there is a good bed of hot
embers on the grate. Mix smaller pieces of wood
with your split logs to help the stove regain heat
quickly. To re-load the firebox:
4. Using the tool provided, open the oven damper
(slide it to the right) and wait a few seconds to
establish draft.
5. Slowly open and secure the cook plate (if
loading from the top) or Fireview door (if
loading from the front).
6. Load the wood, smaller pieces first. Be careful
not to strike the glass with the firewood.
(Breakage is not covered by warranty.)
7. Close the cook plate or Fireview door.
8. Using the tool provided, open the slide dampers
on the side of the stove slightly to accelerate air
flow and rebuild momentum of the fire. If you
have allowed the fire to cool too much, you may
need to open the slide dampers further, or open
the ash door slightly, to re-establish the fire.
9. Once the stove has regained its momentum, you
can close the oven damper and begin to adjust
the slide dampers on the side of the stove.
With a little experience, and by watching the fire
through the Fireview door, you will soon learn to
fine-tune the timing of loading and adjustment of
dampers for optimum fires and cooking.
Disposing of Ashes
Caution: Do not remove ashes or the ash pan
when the stove is hot. Ashes can remain hot, and
pose a risk of injury or fire hazard, long after the
fire has been extinguished.
Occasionally check the ash pan. Empty ashes before
they build over the top of the pan and spill into the
ash cavity.
5. After disposal, replace the ash pan in the stove,
handle facing forward, and close the door.
1. When the fire is out and the stove has cooled for
several hours, open the Fireview door and left
cook plate. Use the rake provided to push loose
ash and small embers through the holes in the
grate and into the ash pan.
2. Slide the top side damper all the way to the
back. This will align the slots in the damper and
the bottom of the left brick. Use the narrow end
of the rake to push accumulated ash through the
slots and into the damper tube. Place a fireproof
container under each end of the damper tube.
Slide the damper back and forth to shake the ash
into the containers.
3. Close the fire door and cook plate. Wearing
heat-resistant gloves, open the ash door. Using
the handle of the ash pan, slide the pan towards
the front of the stove.
4. When the pan is almost out of the stove, tip the
handle up into the carrying position. Place one
hand on the handle and one on the ash pan to
prevent tipping. Carry the pan in this position.
Disposal of Ashes - Ashes should be placed in a
metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed
container of ashes should be placed on a
noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away
from all combustible materials, pending final
disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in
soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be
retained in the closed container until all cinders
have thoroughly cooled. Do not carry hot ashes
through the house or other buildings. Do not
place the ash pan or disposal container on a
combustible floor, or against or near any
combustible materials, gases or liquids.
Cooking: Surface, Oven, Warmers & Gas Burners
Temperatures of the cooking surface, oven and
warmer(s) are determined by:
1. Draft: Adjusting the slide dampers on the side
of the stove will allow you to increase or
decrease the burn rate of your fire. The further
open the dampers, the hotter the fire will be.
2. Oven Damper: Closing the oven damper
(sliding it to the left) not only heats the oven; it
also channels heat across the entire cooktop.
When the oven damper is open, most of the heat
will travel to the flue and directly up the
chimney - there will be a great deal of heat on
the cooktop directly over the firebox, but
relatively little on the right side of the cooktop.
3. Fuel: The amount of fuel in the firebox and its
state of combustion (start-up, fast burn, coals).
prevent rusting, use a cloth to apply a fine coating
of vegetable oil to the entire cooktop. Apply oil
only when the stove is cool. You may notice a small
amount of smoke as the oil burns off the next time
you fire your stove.]
Stove Top Cooking
Caution: Your cooktop will remain hot long after
the flame is reduced or extinguished.
Cooking on a wood-burning stove is much more
flexible than on a modern range. Various areas of
the top have very different temperatures (hottest on
the left / rear and coolest on the right / front, as you
move away from the firebox and flue channel).
Rather than moving a pot from burner to burner, or
turning down the heat, simply move the cooking
vessel to the area with the heat you desire.Unlike a
gas or electric range, the entire surface of the
cooktop can be used for cooking - it provides a very
large cooking surface for pots, pans, griddles, etc.
Griddling directly on the cook plates is not
recommended. Doing so will create a hard-toclean mess, and rusting and staining of the top.
Cooktop Guidelines, Instructions
& Tips:
[During the first few firings, the cooktop will begin
to change color. This is normal “seasoning” of the
stove. Over time, the color will become fairly
consistent across the top. To reduce staining and
With a little practice, experimentation and
experience, you will soon become very familiar
beneficial with some foods to rotate the pan from
time to time during cooking, in order to achieve a
more consistent cooking level.
with how your dampers control the cooktop
temperatures, and which sections are best for
various types of cooking.
As with stovetop cooking, learning how to regulate
temperatures in your oven is part science and part
art. You should be able to obtain satisfactory results
quickly, but experience will allow you to get even
better as you become more familiar with the
operation of your Fireview stove.
You can begin cooking as soon as the cooktop
over the firebox heats up; however you will find
it much easier to maintain consistent
temperatures and avoid burning foods if you
wait until a consistent fire and temperature has
been established in the firebox.
Once the fire is established, use the slide
dampers on the side of the stove to regulate the
Close the oven damper at the back of the
cooktop to channel the heat under the cooktop
and create a higher, more consistent heat, or
open it to channel heat directly up the flue and
away form the cooking surface. It will take
some time for the cooktop to react to changes in
the oven damper – do not expect an immediate
change in cooktop temperatures.
Boiling, griddling and fast frying will be best
accomplished on the left side of the cooktop;
simmering and slow cooking are better
accomplished on the cooler right side. If even
lower temperatures are required on the right
side, open the oven damper accordingly to
reduce the cooktop temperature.
Use flat-bottomed cooking vessels.
The oven will heat up quickly once you close the
oven damper, but it is best to wait until your fire is
well established and you have a good charcoal fire
before attempting to use the oven. Typically, it will
take an hour or two from start-up, and three or four
charges of full-sized wood, before your firebox has
established a bed of coals suitable for oven cooking.
1. Use the Fireview door to monitor the fire.
2. Before using the oven, establish a steady fire in
the firebox, and ensure a good bed (4 – 5” of
red-hot coals has been established in the firebox.
(See “Starting a Fire” and “Maintaining a Fire”
on page .) At this point, you will have very
consistent temperatures in the firebox and
circulating around the oven box.
3. Open the oven damper by sliding it to the right.
Lift the cook plate or open the Fireview door
slowly to add a new charge of wood.
4. Add a full charge of wood (including a few
smaller pieces for faster ignition) to the firebox
and allow the fire to re-establish its momentum.
Use the slide dampers on the side of the stove to
maintain a slow, steady burn.
5. Once the new wood has caught, close the oven
damper. Most of the heat will now be traveling
around the oven, and the oven temperature will
climb quickly. Adjust the oven damper, open or
closed, to regulate the oven temperature.
Remember, it will take several minutes for
adjustments in the oven damper to be reflected
in the oven’s internal temperatures.
6. Continue to monitor the fire through the
Fireview door, and recharge the wood when the
fire is reduced to 4 – 5” of red-hot coals. Avoid
letting the fire dwindle beyond this point. If you
do so, the oven temperature will cool and you
will have to open the dampers (further cooling
the firebox and oven) to re-ignite the new
charge of wood.
Oven Cooking
Always use the tool provided to adjust dampers,
and open or close doors. Do not touch hot controls
with bare hands.
Note: The thermometer on the stove door has been
factory-calibrated to indicate approximate oven
temperatures. As it is basing its readings on
temperatures in the door, it will vary from actual
oven temperatures. You can calibrate the
thermometer, following the directions below, for
more accurate readings. However, as with all woodburning cookstoves, readings will be approximate.
Use the interior oven thermometer provided for
accurate oven temperature readings.
The temperature in the oven of a wood-burning
cookstove will vary from top-to-bottom, side-toside and front-to-back, depending on the duration of
cooking and the nature of the fire. You may find it
5. Unscrew four corner screws holding the interior
panel to the door frame, and remove the panel.
This will expose the back of the thermometer.
6. Stand the door on its bottom edge.
7. Note temperature reading on the thermometer.
8. Rotate the spring on the back of the
thermometer clockwise / counter-clockwise
until you have moved the temperature reading
up / down by the amount noted in step #3 above.
9. Replace panel on door.
10. Replace door on stove, replace hinge pin caps.
Before loading wood, always open the oven
damper and wait a few seconds before
opening the cook plate or Fireview door.
For best performance, clean creosote and
soot regularly from the channels around the
oven. This will ensure smooth flow of air
and even heating of the oven box.
Door Thermometer Calibration
Your door thermometer has been calibrated at the
factory to provide fairly accurate readings in the
300 to 400 degree Fahrenheit range. To calibrate
your thermometer:
1. Following the directions above, establish a
steady red-coal fire in your stove.
2. Use the damper controls to establish an oven
temperature of approximately 350°F, according
to the internal oven thermometer.
3. Note the difference between the door
thermometer and the internal thermometer. (if
the door thermometer reads 300°F, and the
internal thermometer reads 350°F, you will want
to calibrate the door thermometer UP 50°F.)
4. The next time the stove has completely cooled,
open the oven door and lift it off of its hinges.
Lay the door face-down on a soft surface.
You may have to repeat this process once or twice
to get accurate readings. Even when you have
calibrated the thermometer for accurate readings at
350°F, you will get some variation at very high and
very low temperatures. With experience, you will
learn what internal temperatures correspond to
various door readings.
All Fireview cookstoves feature an overhead
warming cabinet. The shelf on top of this cabinet
will also be quite warm when the stove is burning,
though not as warm as the inside of the cabinet.
Model 1842 features a second warmer on the right
side of the stove. These warmers and the upper shelf
are ideal for:
• keeping cooked foods warm while you prepare
the last few items, or need to use the main oven
for another dish
• warming plates
• warming bread & pies
• allowing dough to rise
Temperatures in warmers will be proportional to
stovetop and oven temperatures - as the stove heats
up, so will the warmers. On the Model 1842, the
upper warmer will have a different temperature than
the side warmer, giving you a flexibility in heating
options. You may wish to obtain one or two oven
thermometers to measure the temperature in your
warmers, to avoid overcooking or drying foods.
Caution: Be very careful when reaching across the
cookstove to load or unload the upper cabinet. The
front of the stove and the cooktop will be extremely
hot. Door handles can be hot – use the tool
provided to open and close doors - do not touch
with bare hands.
1. Push and turn the burner control knob counterclockwise to the “LIGHT” position. The igniter
will begin to spark on both burners.
Gas Burner Operation
(Model 1842-G)
(If the igniter does not spark, ensure burner caps are
aligned correctly, with the dimple on the cap in the
recess in the burner. If the igniter still does not
spark, replace the battery in the igniter. If the
problem persists, contact Elmira for assistance.)
Model 1842-G dual fuel stove is equipped with two
sealed gas burners and a battery-powered ignition
system. These burners are convenient for quick
cooking tasks when you don’t want to wait for the
cooktop to heat up, or warm days when you don’t
want the heat of a fire.
2. Once the flame is ignited, turn the control knob
to the desired temperature.
3. When you are finished cooking, turn the knob to
the “OFF” position.
The sealed gas burners spread the heat evenly
across the bottom of the cooking utensil and provide
infinite heat control. There are no standing pilots to
light or adjust. See “Gas Burner Cleaning” below
for maintenance of burners.
Caution: Never leave a burner unattended. Your
gas burners feature “push and turn” functionality to
prevent accidental gas flow. Do not allow children
to play with or near the stove.
Igniting Gas Burners
The control for the back burner is on the right; front
burner on the left. The igniter will send a spark to
both burners when pushed. To ignite:
Elmira Stove Works. When calling, please provide
a complete description of the problem, your model
and serial number, and the purchase or installation
date. This information is needed to identify the
problem and any parts or service needed.
If you experience an emergency situation, refer to
the Safety Instructions, such as “Over-Firing Caution!” and “If You Smell Gas” (page 3).
These tips are intended to assist with simple, nonemergency problems you might encounter with your
stove. If you require additional assistance call
Fire & Draft:
Difficulty lighting or
maintaining fire, excessive
smoking and/or back-puffing
For Service, call our help line at: 800-295-8498.
Inadequate draft (see
“Downdraft” in Glossary
of Terms
• Closing oven
damper before
chimney is heated
• Chimney blockage
• Obstruction near
chimney top
• Chimney too short
• Cold chimney
• Keep damper open
until fire is established.
• Inspect & clean
• Remove obstruction or
extend chimney.
• Extend chimney (as a
rule of thumb, the
chimney should extend
at least 16 feet above
the floor on which the
stove is located).
• Insulate or enclose
chimney (follow
• Oversized chimney
liner – stove is
designed for a 6”
flue and liner
• Negative pressure
in house (caused by
furnace, exhaust
fans, dryer, etc.)
• “Stack Effect”
(prevalent in winter
- warm air rising to
upper stories pulls
air from stove)
• Blockage in tubular
slide dampers
• Oven damper is
Smoking or back-puffing
when cook plate or Fireview
door is opened
Temporarily inadequate
draft to pull smoke up
Fire is difficult to control
Excessive draft
• Too much draw on
Wood is hard to light sizzles & steams
Wet / damp wood
• Inadequate
• Moisture getting
into stored wood
Oven Cooking:
Oven won’t heat adequately
Inadequate draft
Low firebox temperature
• Oversized chimney
or liner
• Wood is too large
Inaccurate temperature
Heat not reaching oven
Door thermometer not
• Oven damper open
• Door thermometer
does not provide
highly accurate
Foods in oven cooking
Inconsistent oven
• Fire not stabilized
prior to baking
• Firebox cooling
excessively during
• Install 6” liner (ideally,
liner should have same
internal area as the flue
collar of the stove).
• Turn off furnace and
other exhaust factors
when stove is burning.
• Crack a window to
allow air into room.
• Increase chimney
height to increase
• Crack a window to
allow air into room.
• Clean tubes with tooth
brush or venturi brush.
• Open damper prior to
opening cook plate or
door. Wait before
opening plate or door.
• Install stove pipe
damper above the
upper cabinet (approx.
5-1/2’ above the floor.
• Allow wood to dry
under cover for
minimum of one year
after splitting.
• Keep split wood
covered (sides open)
• Install 6” flue / liner.
• Split to 3” x 3” for
high, consistent heat.
• Close damper.
• Calibrate thermometer
(page 28) for more
accurate readings.
• Use interior oven
thermometer provided.
• Allow fire to stabilize
(4-5” of red-hot coals).
• Re-charge fire when
wood burns down to
3/4” of red-hot coals.
• Temperatures vary
throughout oven
• Fire too hot
Top of foods in oven brown / Excessive heat in oven
burn excessively
Cooktop Cooking:
Foods burn / cook too
Uneven heat in oven
• Food too close to
top / back of oven
Cooktop too hot
• Fire too hot
• Oven damper is
closed, sending
most heat across
Foods cook too slowly
Cooktop not hot enough
• Fire not hot enough
• Oven damper is
open, sending most
heat up chimney
• Inadequate contact
between cooking
vessel and cooktop
Gas Burners:
Cooktop control knobs will
not turn
Burner(s) burn with uneven
Knobs have “push & turn”
safety feature
Burner cap(s) are not level
• Knobs not pushed
prior to turning
• Cap(s) are not
installed properly
Burners spark, but one does
not light
Igniter does not spark when
knob is turned to “LIGHT”.
Burner must be clean to
No electricity coming
from igniter
• Dirt on burner, cap,
igniter or orifice
• Dead or low battery
• Defective igniter
• Rotate foods for more
even results.
• Wait until fire
stabilizes to red-hot
coals prior to baking.
• Reduce fire using slide
• Open oven damper
slightly to reduce heat.
• Move foods to front.
• Move rack to bottom.
• Use slide dampers to
regulate fire
• Allow fire to stabilize
before cooking.
• Move cooking vessel
to right side of
• Regulate cooktop
temperature with oven
• Move cooking vessel
to right side of
• Add fuel and / or use
slide dampers to
regulate fire.
• Move cooking vessel
to left side of cooktop.
• Regulate cooktop
temperature with oven
• Move cooking vessel
to left side of cooktop.
• Use flat-bottomed
cooking vessels.
• Push knob, then turn to
desired setting.
• Rotate cap until it is
aligned properly and
sits evenly in the
burner base.
• Clean dirt from entire
burner assembly.
• Replace battery.
• Replace igniter.
Maintenance & Adjustments
Your cookstove will give you years of enjoyment
and great cooking with little maintenance. However,
some occasional maintenance is required and will
keep your stove operating safely and efficiently.
through the cleanout opening and into a suitable
ash container (You can use the ash pan for this
purpose.). Replace the cleanout plate.
6. Follow instructions for “Disposing of Ashes” on
page 25 to dispose of the ashes.
Oven Flue Passage - Cleaning
When the oven damper of your stove is closed,
smoke and heat travel through a channel around the
oven, providing heat to the oven for baking and
roasting. The smoke deposits “fly ash” and creosote
on the outside walls of the oven and adjacent
panels. As heat, smoke and gases travel around the
oven, fly ash and often creosote are left behind.
Fly ash – fine and light-colored - is produced
through the clean, efficient burning of good, dry
wood. Creosote – sticky and dark in color – is
produced when wet wood is burned or when the
stove is not being burned hot enough. Rapid buildup of creosote is a warning that you need to burn
drier wood, burn your fires hotter (at least for one
hour or so out of each burning cycle) and / or that
you need to improve the draft of your chimney
system to allow for hotter burns. A build-up of
creosote in the flue chamber can lead to chimney
fires and over-firing, along with foul odors and
premature rusting of the stove and chimney system.
Flue Boot
The flue boot is located at the back of the range.
Remove the stove pipe from the flue boot and
scrape away any ash and / or creosote build-up in
the flue boot. Remove the ash through the cleanout
door and dispose of as instructed in “Disposing of
Ashes” on page 25 of this manual.
The frequency with which the flue needs cleaning
will depend on how often you burn the stove,
quality of fuel and your burning habits and patterns.
Oven Damper
A build-up of ashes and creosote may cause the
oven damper to stick. Allow the stove to cool
completely. Remove the left cookplates and scrape
away ashes. If necessary, spray residue with a
creosote remover. Allow to sit for 30 minutes and
then remove remaining sludge. Do not re-fire the
stove until all cleaner residue has been removed.
Clean flue passages only when the fire is out and
the stove is cool. To clean the flue passage:
1. Remove the cook plates from the top of the
stove, exposing the flue passage.
2. Using the smooth-sided ash tool provided,
scrape ash / creosote from the top of the oven
box, across and down the right side of the oven.
3. Scrape the ash off of and down the right side of
the oven box and adjacent panels. The ash will
fall to the bottom of the side channel.
4. Remove the nickel clean-out plate located under
the oven door by sliding it up and out of the
“keyholes” holding it in place.
5. Scrape ashes that have fallen down the side
channels and ashes accumulated under the oven
Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and
other organic vapors, which combine with expelled
moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors
condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a
slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue
accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this
creosote makes an extremely hot fire. When burning
wood, the chimney connector and chimney should
be inspected at least once every two months during
the heating season to determine if a creosote
buildup has occurred.
During the first few hot firings of your Fireview
cookstove, the cookplates will begin to change
color. This is a normal process. As you burn the
stove more, the color will become more consistent
across the cooktop.
If you notice dry, flaky deposits on the liner or a
shiny, glazed coating, you have creosote build-up.
Glazed creosote is extremely flammable and poses a
serious fire hazard. Glazed creosote should be
removed before it reaches 1/8” (3 mm.) in
thickness. Dry creosote should be removed before it
reaches ¼” (6 mm.) in thickness.
To help prevent stains and rusting of the cookplates,
apply a light coating of vegetable oil once the stove
has completely cooled after each firing. When you
are not going to be firing your stove for an extended
period (longer than a week or so, and especially if
you will be away from the stove for a full season),
apply a heavy coating of oil. If possible, re-apply
additional coats at least every four to six weeks.
Creosote will build up more quickly:
• When the chimney liner is cold. (Insulate the
chimney, install a liner to reduce flue size, burn
the appliance hotter to heat the chimney.)
• When wet or damp wood is burned. (Use only
dry, well-seasoned wood.)
• When fires are allowed to smolder. (Burn your
fire hot for at least one hour out of each burn
• In the spring and fall, when less heat is wanted
and fires are burned more slowly.
Clean up spills, and remove stains caused by wood,
food, liquids and rust as soon as it is safe to do so.
Stains allowed to set on the cookplates can become
impossible to remove. Many stains, if caught soon
enough, can be removed using a fine-to-medium
aluminum oxide sanding block (available at most
hardware stores) or a metal cleaner with fine steel
wool. Over time, it is almost inevitable that your
cooktop will sustain some stains and marks – think
of them as signs of your stove’s authenticity.
Chimney Cleaning
Unless you are adventurous and / or frugal, chimney
cleaning is best left to a qualified chimney sweep.
An experienced “sweep” will clean your chimney
quickly, thoroughly and with no mess left behind;
and you can be confident the job has been
performed properly. The chimney sweep will also
check the condition of the chimney and advise you
of any repairs or corrections that are required. Your
dealer may perform this service, or can probably
refer you to a good chimney sweep in your area.
If you choose to sweep your own chimney, you will
require some simple equipment, available at most
hardware stores and hearth shops. Chimneys are
cleaned with brushes attached to the end of rods.
The rods have threaded ends so they can be attached
to one another, providing more length for taller
chimneys. Only plastic brushes should be used in
metal chimneys and steel brushes should be used in
a masonry chimney. You will require enough
surface contact and friction to remove the ash and
creosote deposits, so the brush should fit snugly in
the chimney. Make several passes of the brush up
and down the chimney for a thorough cleaning.
If you would like to restore the original swirled look
of he top, you can do so by sanding the top with an
orbital sander and 100-grit sanding disk. Oil the top
after sanding to prevent rusting.
Gas Burner Cleaning
Burner caps should be routinely removed and
cleaned. Always clean caps after a spillover.
Keeping the caps clean aids in proper ignition and
an even flame. For proper flow of gas and ignition
of the burner, DO NOT ALLOW SPILLS, FOOD,
must flow freely through the small hole in the brass
orifice for the burner to light properly. This area
must be free of any soil and be kept protected from
spillovers. ALWAYS keep the burner caps in place
whenever a surface burner is in use.
Occasionally check flames for proper size and
shape as shown. A good flame is blue in color. If
flames lift off ports they are yellow and usually
noisy. You may need to clean the burners.
Fireview Glass Cleaning &
To Clean Burners:
1. Lift the burner cap straight up from the base.
2. Clean burner cap with warm, soapy water and a
sponge. You can also clean with a nonabrasive
scrubbing pad or cleanser.
3. If the gas orifice opening has become soiled or
clogged, use a cotton swab or soft cloth to clean
the area.
4. If ports are clogged, clean with a straight pin.
Do not enlarge or distort port. Do not leave
anything stuck in the ports.
5. After cleaning the orifice opening and ports,
replace the burner cap. Make sure cap is set
straight on burner and that the tabs on cap fit
into grooves of burner base.
6. Check burner for proper lighting after cleaning.
Avoid operating the stove in a manner that will
result in breakage or cracking of the Fireview glass
– striking or slamming the door or glass, splashing
liquids on hot glass, etc. Do not operate the stove
with a broken or cracked Fireview glass.
• Do not clean the glass when the fire is burning
or the glass is hot.
• Do not clean glass with abrasive cleansers.
Scratching or etching the glass will weaken its
integrity. Do not use steel wool or razor blades
to clean the glass.
• Clean glass as necessary using a low alkaline
content commercial woodstove glass cleaner,
available from most woodstove / hearth
products dealers. Follow the manufacturer’s
directions. Allow the stove and glass to cool
thoroughly prior to cleaning.
• For heavier deposits remove the door and lay it
face down on a table or bench. Apply cleaner
and allow to soak. Wipe clean with a soft cloth.
Note: If gas burner burns with an uneven orange
flame, reposition the burner cap so it sits flat on the
housing. If burner lights slowly, have your gas
service person check the gas pressure to the stove.
• When cleaning around the surface burner, use
care. If cleaning cloth should catch the igniter, it
could damage it, preventing ignition.
• If surface burner does not light, check if igniter
is broken, soiled or wet. If clogged, clean the
small port beneath the igniter with a straight pin.
• Wipe acid / sugar spills as soon as the cooktop
has cooled - these spills will discolor porcelain.
The Fireview glass is a ceramic shock-resistant
glass, made specifically for use in wood-burning
stoves. The glass should be replaced immediately if
cracked or broken. Replace glass only with glass
supplied by Elmira Stove Works for this stove. Do
not use substitute materials.
Manual Burner Adjustment on Low
The burners have been pre-adjusted at the factory for
best performance. You may manually adjust the low
settings up or down by removing the control knob while
the burner is lit and in the low position. While holding
the valve stem so it doesn’t turn, insert a small flat blade
screwdriver into the stem and turn the small brass screw
slightly in either direction until desired flame height is
obtained. Valve must be adjusted so low flame licks
around burner cap no less than 1/8”.
Your replacement glass will be accompanied by
replacement instructions. If you replace the glass
yourself, wear protective gloves and safety glasses.
1. Remove hinge caps and remove door from
hinges. Place face down on a table or work
2. Remove two screws from each of three retaining
clips. Set screws and clips aside.
3. Lift old glass out of door. Use caution when
removing broken glass to avoid cuts.
4. Place new (gasketed) glass in cavity in door,
with the non-gasketed side facing the top of the
door. (Glass is shipped with gasket installed.)
5. Replace clips and screws. Do not over-tighten.
6. Replace door on hinges and replace hinge caps.
Manual Burner Adjustment on Low
Note: Low adjustment will not affect flame heights
at other settings.
Replacement gasket and adhesive can be ordered
from Elmira Stove Works or your dealer. Loose
gasket that is still in good condition can be reapplied using high-temperature silicone. Gasket is
sold by the foot, or as an assembly. Installation
instructions are supplied with the gasket. Refer to
the gasket listing below.
• oven door - gasket assembly
• fire door - 3 feet of 3/8” rope gasket
• ash door - 3 feet of 3/8” rope gasket
• Fireview glass – 2 feet of flat window gasket
Igniter Battery
Replacing the 9 volt battery in your stove’s igniter
is a simple and easy process:
1. Grasp the igniter knob and turn counterclockwise to unscrew it from the assembly.
2. Remove the battery and replace with a new 9volt battery. Polarity (+/-) does not matter.
3. Screw the knob clockwise onto the assembly.
If the igniter fails to spark after replacing the
battery, remove and test the battery. If the battery is
fully charged, the igniter may need replacement.
Porcelain / Powder Coated Finishes
Periodically clean and inspect the firebox of your
stove. Ensure ash and debris are not blocking the air
intakes from the slide dampers on the left side of the
stove. Your fire bricks are reinforced with stainless
steel strands to resist cracking; however minor
cracks are normal – larger cracks can be repaired
with stove cement. Badly cracked or broken
firebricks should be replaced immediately.
To protect your firebox and its components:
• Avoid impacting the Fireview door glass with
wood or other objects that may break the glass.
Do not allow firewood to burn directly against
the glass.
• Do not allow water or other cool liquids to come
into contact with the glass when it is hot.
• Clean the Fireview glass as necessary with
woodstove glass cleaner, Follow the
manufacturer’s directions. Allow the glass to
cool fully before cleaning.
• Avoid impacting fire brick with firewood.
• Burn dry seasoned wood.
• Do not let ashes spill over the top of the ash pan
– empty the ash pan regularly.
Wipe acid or sugar spills as soon as the cooktop
has cooled as these spills will discolor the
porcelain. Exterior porcelain and powder coated
surfaces can be cleaned with warm soapy water and
a soft cloth. Allow hardened spills to soak. For a
high sheen, spray with window cleaner and polish
after cleaning and rinsing. Do not clean porcelain
finishes when hot. Sudden changes in temperature
may crack the porcelain.
Nickel Trim
Do not use abrasive cleansers, scrubbers or cloths
on nickel trim. Abrasives will scratch or cloud the
finish. Clean nickel trim with a soft, non-abrasive
cloth and warm soapy water. Rinse and polish dry.
To remove tarnish from nickel trim, use a fine
polish such as Maas, available through many
hardware stores or through Elmira Stove Works.
Oven Compartment
Removing & Replacing
Firebrick & Grate
The oven can be cleaned with normal household
oven cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s directions.
Door Gaskets
Firebrick and grate are shipped in place. You can
remove them to reduce weight, or for replacement.
Inspect the gaskets around the Fireview door, ash
door and oven door regularly to ensure they are
sealing properly. A poor seal on the fire door or ash
door will result in reduced control of burn rates and
inefficient fires. A poor seal on the oven door will
result in inconsistent oven temperatures.
1. Remove the left cookplate: Lift the left side of
the plate. Slide the plate slightly to the left (out
from under the next cookplate). While guiding
3. Place the other large fire brick in the firebox and
slide it up against the right wall of the firebox.
Replace the secondary air tube above the brick
and secure in place by tightening the screw.
4. Open the Fireview door. Place the small
stainless steel-sheathed fire brick immediately
under the door, with the fully sheathed side
facing the back of the stove. Insert the bolt
through the hole under the door and through the
brick. (You may need a screw driver to thread
the bolt through the brick.) Attach the nut and
tighten the bolt. Do not over-tighten.
5. Place the final firebrick in place in the back of
the firebox. It will be held in place on the
bottom by small pins on the back of the grate.
Attach the retainer clip above the top of the
brick by inserting the screw through the back of
the stove into the clip. Tighten screw. (For the
first installation of the firebrick the clip and
screw can be found in the hardware package in
the ash pan.)
the lifter handle (if the lifter is attached) through
the cabinet bracket, lift the plate off of the stove.
Remove the retaining clip holding the top of the
rear fire brick. While standing behind the stove,
hold the clip and undo the screw on the back of
the range which holds the clip in place. (If you
have a heat shield, the side section may have to
be removed to access the screw.)
Carefully remove the brick.
Open the Fireview door. Grasp the nut under the
inside center of the door with pliers and undo
the corresponding bolt on the front of the stove
(middle of the ash catch).
Lift the small stainless steel sheathed fire brick
out from under the Fireview door.
Remove the secondary air tube above the right
fire brick by removing the screw holding it in
place and wiggling the tube free. Grasp the
brick and lift it out of the firebox.
Grasp the large fire brick on the left side of the
firebox by the grooves in the bottom of the
brick. Gently lift the brick and slide the bottom
out over the retaining pin on the wood grate, so
the top of the brick can clear the retainer above.
Put fingers through holes in grate (do not get
fingers stuck) and gently lift out of firebox.
1. Grasp the grate by placing fingers through
holes. (Do not get fingers stuck.) In the proper
position, the grate slopes down to the middle
and the retaining pins on the top of the grate
are at the back. Angle the grate into the firebox
and rest it on the grate stand.
2. Angle the largest firebrick into the firebox.
Grooves are on the bottom of the brick. Rest the
brick on the grate with the bottom a few inches
away from the left side of the firebox. Slide the
bottom to the left, up and over the retaining pin
on the grate, to slip the top of the brick under
the steel retaining bracket. Slide the brick as far
forward in the firebox as possible. (Positioning
is important, since air must flow through the
grooves in the bottom of the brick.)
Glossary of Terms
Ash Rake / Ash / Clean-out Tool: tool used to
scrape ash from around the oven and flue boot. Ash
is scraped from the sides and top of the oven and
flue boot, and out clean-out door below the oven.
Back-draft (also Down-draft): reversal of air flow
in the chimney and stove (air comes down the
chimney - caused by negative pressure in building
and / or exterior wind conditions – results in
emission of smoke through the stove into the room.
Back-puffing: puffs of smoke out of dampers and
openings in the stove when oxygen is suddenly
introduced to an oxygen-starved fire. Occurs most
often when a door, cookplate or damper is opened
too quickly and the chimney cannot absorb the
sudden supply of air. Open doors, plates and
dampers slowly to avoid back-puffing. Open oven
damper prior to opening doors, plates or dampers.
Bank / Banking the Fire - loading the firebox with
enough fuel for a long burn cycle - a bed of coals 3
– 5” deep is required for proper banking.
Charging the fire – adding a load of wood – done
when the fire from the previous load is well
established (when the wood in a start-up fire has
gained momentum or when a 3-5” bed of hot coals
exists in an established fire).
Chimney Connector – horizontal pipe running
between the flue pipe and chimney.
Clearances – distances that must be maintained
between stove, flue pipe and chimney parts and
nearby combustibles – the greater the distance, the
more air will cool before contacting combustibles.
Cookplate - section of the stovetop, lifted to load
fuel or make repairs to the firebox – also the surface
on which stovetop cooking is done.
Creosote – condensate created by tar, organic
vapors and moisture - condense when hot smoke
and ash contact cooler surfaces of the oven channel,
flue / chimney assembly and firebox – extremely
flammable and can cause dangerous chimney fires –
remove regularly to prevent fire hazard.
Dampers – devices used to control inflow of
combustion air or outflow of smoke / exhaust gases.
Down-draft (also back-draft) – when outside air is
warmer than the air inside the house, smoke will
have difficulty drafting up the chimney. This
condition is most prevalent on warm fall days and /
or days with very low pressure. Another cause of
down-drafting is excessive build-up of creosote in
the chimney, which restricts the flow of flue gases.
Fire Glove – a heat and fire-resistant glove
available at most stove / hearth products stores.
Fireview Door – glass door on the left front of the
stove – used to enjoy the view of the fire, monitor
the fire and load wood.
Flue Boot – metal assembly mounted to the back of
the stove that channels smoke and gases from the
stove up the stove pipe and chimney.
Flue Pipe (also called smoke pipe, stove pipe) –
the interior pipe running between the stove and the
chimney or chimney connector.
Heat Shield – a non-combustible assembly used to
reduce clearances required between the stove and
nearby combustible walls and other materials –
mounts to the back of the stove and pipe.
Lift Handle - handle on the left back side of the
cooktop, used to lift the cookplate – provides access
to the firebox for loading fuel and maintenance.
Oven Cleanout - door below oven - removed to
scrape and remove ashes from below oven.
Oven Damper – located on the back left side of the
cooktop – routes heat directly up the chimney, or
around the oven to heat the oven and cooktop. Open
the damper before opening doors, cookplates or
dampers to prevent back-puffing.
Oven Flue Passage – channel around oven
(between oven & cooktop, side of stove and bottom
of stove. When the oven damper is closed, hot air
travels through this channel, heating the oven.
Pipe Damper – optional damper located in the flue
pipe above the stove – used to control draft in
installations with excessive draft (usually more than
a 20’ chimney height).
Rake - tool used to scrape ash and creosote from
the flue passage around the oven.
Smoke Pipe, Stove Pipe – see Flue Pipe
Warmer (see also Warming Cabinet / Warming
Closet) – either of the warm air cabinets located
above the cooking surface or to the right of the main
oven. Temperatures in these cabinets vary
depending on temperature of the oven and cooktop.
Warming Cabinet / Warming Closet – upper
cabinet above the cooktop – provides storage and
warming for plates and food.
Fireview Parts
1 – Installation & Operating Manual (#3372)
32 – Damper Tracks Top/Bottom (#3242)
2 – Cabinet Door & Hinges (#3307)
33 – Damper Track Center (#3243)
3 – Cabinet Door Springs (#1591)
34 – Air Damper Knob (#3319)
4 – Handle, Cabinet Door (#1551)
34A – Air Damper Tube (#3245)
5 – Cabinet Front (Nickel) (#3309)
35 – Cook Plate – Reservoir – Gas (#3222)
6 – Top Cresting (#3317)
36 – Work Surface – Reservoir (#3223)
7 – Cabinet Bracket – Left (#3311)
37 – Oven Rack (#3331)
8 – Cabinet Bracket – Right (#3310)
38 – Ash Pan (#3255)
9 – Splashback (#3306)
39 – Firebrick – Back (#3234)
10 – Trivet (#1075N)
40 – Firebrick – Front (#3233)
11 – Gas Grate (#1568)
41 – Firebrick – Right (#3232)
12 – Burner Cap (#1565)
42 – Firebrick – Left (#3231)
13 – Burner Bezel (#1074-12)
43 – Wood Grate (#3283)
14 – Lift Handle (#3265)
44 – Gas Regulator (#1497)
15 – Oven Damper Handle (#3318)
45 – Door & Damper Tool (#3321)
16A – Cook Plate – Left (#3279)
46 – Ash Rake/Scraper Tool (3320)
16B – Cook Plate – Center (#3280)
47 – Trim Rail (36” - #3274, 48” - #3275)
16C – Cook Plate – Right 48” Models (#3282)
48 – Fire Door Glass w/ Gasket (#3337)
16D – Cook Plate – Right 36” Models (#3281)
Not Shown:
17 – Rear Rail (#3278)
Igniter Spring & Clip (#1567)
Oven Door Liner, Porcelained (#3224)
Flue Boot (#3257)
21 – Oven/Reservoir Door Handles (#1576)
Oven Damper (#3270)
22 – Casting - Oven Door with Frame #1047)
Oven Damper Slider Rod (#3271)
23 – Oven Door Thermometer (#3329)
Rear Heat Shield Kit (#3285)
24 – Fire Door (#3273)
Pipe Shield (#3286)
25 – Ash Door (#3272)
Door “Bullet” Catch (#3323)
26 – Clean Out Plate (#3267)
Oven Door Latch Plate (#3325)
27 – Oven Door Gasket (#3343)
Gas Valve Switch (#3334)
28 – Ash Catch (#3226)
Gas Valve (#1725)
29 – Leg, Black (#1036)
Glass Hold-Down Strip (#3266)
30 – Front Skirt (#3313)
Glass Gasket Kit (#3389)
31 – Side Skirt (#1057)
Ash / Fire Door Gasket Kit (#3341)
18 – Battery Igniter System (#3335)
19 – Burner Knob (#1573)
20 - Casting, Reservoir Door with Frame (#1055)
Options & Accessories
Heat Shield Kit (#3285 body,
#3286 pipe)
Reduces required clearances to allow installation closer to rear walls.
Accessories are available through your dealer, or call Elmira Stove Works, 519-669-1281, Toll-free 800-2958498, Fax 519-669-1774.
Elmira Stove Works’ HelpLine Number
Your Fireview stove is warranted by Elmira Stove Works to be free from defects
in material and workmanship for a period of two years from the date of purchase.
Elmira Stove Works will replace any parts
which become defective during the period of this warranty.
Glass, enamel, porcelain coatings and nickel plating are not covered by warranty.
The warranty does not include normal wear of fire brick, firebox parts or gaskets.
This warranty is subject to the terms and conditions outlined below.
Terms and Conditions
This warranty applies only for domestic use when the stove has been properly
installed according to instructions supplied by Elmira Stove Works in this manual, and to local
building and safety codes. The stove must be connected to an adequate and proper chimney with
proper chimney connections. Damage due to faulty installation, improper use and care,
abuse, accident, fire, flood or acts of God cancels all obligations under this warranty.
Neither Elmira Stove Works nor the dealer is liable for any damages
or claims resulting from failure of the stove. Parts replaced through this warranty
are warranted for the balance of the original warranty period.
Purchase Date: _____________________ Store: _ ______________________
Store Address: ___________________________________________________
Stove Model ___________________________________
Serial Number __________________________________
CAUTION: Repeated and / or extended over-firing
of this stove is dangerous and will void the warranty.
Elmira Stove Works
285 Union Street, Elmira, ON Canada N3B 3P1
Tel: 519 669-1281 Fax: 519 669-1774 Toll-Free: 800-295-8498
E-mail: info@elmirastoveworks.com
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