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Every
2000 Tracker under warranty is backed with the following services:
Courtesy
Transportation
Bumper-to-Bumper
3-years/36,000 miles (60 000 km)
Limited Warranty
1-800-CHEV-USA
( (
For Vehicles Purchased In Canada,
that provides in an emergency:
Free
lockout assistance
Free
dead-battery assistance
Free
out-of-fuel assistance
Free
flat-tire change
Emergency towing
2000 Chevrolet Tracker
Owner's Manual
Litho in U.S.A.
Part Number 22619455 A First Edition
© Copyright General Motors Corporation 1999
All Rights Reserved
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Table of Contents
Seats and Restraint Systems
Features and Controls
Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) System (If Equipped)
Automatic Transmission (If Equipped)
Manual Transmission Operation (If Equipped)
Four-Wheel Drive Operation (If Equipped)
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
Convenience Net/Cargo Cover/Luggage Carrier (If Equipped)
Instrument Panel, Warning Lights and Gages
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
Radio/Cassette Player/CD Player
Your Driving, the Road, and Your Vehicle
Your Driving and the Road
Driving Tips for Various Road Conditions
Problems on the Road
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iv
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Service and Appearance Care
Checking Fluids and Lubricants
Passenger Compartment Air Filter (If Equipped)
Electrical System/Fuses and Circuit Breakers
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Periodic Maintenance Inspections
Maintenance Schedule
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Customer Assistance Information
Customer Satisfaction Procedures
Roadside Assistance and Courtesy Transportation
Warranty Information (See Warranty Manual)
Reporting Safety Defects on page 8-10
Section 9
Index
In the Index you will find an alphabetical listing of almost every subject in this manual.
You can use it to quickly find something you want to read.
Please refer to the last page of this manual for your
Service Station Guide
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We support voluntary technician certification.
GENERAL MOTORS, GM, the GM Emblem,
CHEVROLET, the CHEVROLET Emblem and the name TRACKER are registered trademarks of General
Motors Corporation.
This manual includes the latest information at the time it was printed. We reserve the right to make changes in the product after that time without further notice. For vehicles first sold in Canada, substitute the name
“General Motors of Canada Limited” for Chevrolet
Motor Division whenever it appears in this manual.
Please keep this manual in your vehicle, so it will be there if you ever need it when you’re on the road. If you sell the vehicle, please leave this manual in it so the new owner can use it.
For Canadian Owners Who Prefer a
French Language Manual:
Aux propriétaires canadiens: Vous pouvez vous procurer un exemplaire de ce guide en français chez votre concessionaire ou au:
DGN Marketing Services Ltd.
1577 Meyerside Dr.
Mississauga, Ontario L5T 1B9
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About Driving Your Vehicle
As with other vehicles of this type, failure to operate this vehicle correctly may result in loss of control or an accident. Be sure to read the “on
pavement” and “off
road” driving guidelines in this manual.
(See “Your Driving the Road and Your Vehicle” and
“Off
-
Road Driving with Your Four
-
Wheel-Drive
Vehicle” in the Index.)
How to Use this Manual
Many people read their owner’s manual from beginning to end when they first receive their new vehicle. If you do this, it will help you learn about the features and controls for your vehicle. In this manual, you’ll find that pictures and words work together to explain things quickly.
Safety Warnings and Symbols
You will find a number of safety cautions in this book.
We use a box and the word CAUTION to tell you about things that could hurt you if you were to ignore the warning.
CAUTION:
These mean there is something that could hurt you or other people.
In the caution area, we tell you what the hazard is. Then we tell you what to do to help avoid or reduce the hazard. Please read these cautions. If you don’t, you or others could be hurt.
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You will also find a circle with a slash through it in this book. This safety symbol means “Don’t,”
“Don’t do this” or “Don’t let this happen.”
In the notice area, we tell you about something that can damage your vehicle. Many times, this damage would not be covered by your warranty, and it could be costly.
But the notice will tell you what to do to help avoid the damage.
When you read other manuals, you might see
CAUTION and NOTICE warnings in different colors or in different words.
You’ll also see warning labels on your vehicle. They use the same words, CAUTION or NOTICE.
Vehicle Damage Warnings
Also, in this book you will find these notices:
NOTICE:
These mean there is something that could damage your vehicle.
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Vehicle Symbols
These are some of the symbols you may find on your vehicle.
For example, these symbols are used on an original battery:
CAUTION
POSSIBLE
INJURY
These symbols are important for you and your passengers whenever your vehicle is driven:
These symbols have to do with your lamps:
MASTER
LIGHTING
SWITCH
These symbols are on some of your controls:
WINDSHIELD
WIPER
PROTECT
EYES BY
SHIELDING
DOOR LOCK
UNLOCK
TURN
SIGNALS
WINDSHIELD
WASHER
PARKING
LAMPS CAUSTIC
BATTERY
ACID COULD
CAUSE
BURNS
FASTEN
SEAT
BELTS
HAZARD
WARNING
FLASHER
WINDSHIELD
DEFROSTER
AVOID
SPARKS OR
FLAMES
POWER
WINDOW
DAYTIME
RUNNING
LAMPS
REAR
WINDOW
DEFOGGER
SPARK OR
FLAME
COULD
EXPLODE
BATTERY
AIR BAG
FOG LAMPS
VENTILATING
FAN
These symbols are used on warning and indicator lights:
ENGINE
COOLANT
TEMP
BATTERY
CHARGING
SYSTEM
BRAKE
COOLANT
ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
ANTI-LOCK
BRAKES
Here are some other symbols you may see:
FUSE
LIGHTER
HORN
SPEAKER
FUEL
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Service Station Guide
For a More
Detailed Look at
What's Under the Hood
Engine Oil Dipstick
Oil Viscosity
Battery
Fuel
Spare Tire Pressure
Hood Release
Cooling System
Windshield Washer
Fluid
Tire Pressure
Section 1 Seats and Restraint Systems
Here you’ll find information about the seats in your vehicle and how to use your safety belts properly. You can also learn about some things you should not do with air bags and safety belts.
10 Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone
15 Here Are Questions Many People Ask About
16 How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
23 Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
24 Right Front Passenger Position
24 Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
34 Center Passenger Position (4
53 Checking Your Restraint Systems
53 Replacing Restraint System Parts
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Seats and Seat Controls
This part tells you about the seats
--
how to adjust them, and also about reclining front seatbacks, head restraints, easy entry seats and the folding rear seatback.
Manual Front Seat
CAUTION:
You can lose control of the vehicle if you try to adjust a manual driver’s seat while the vehicle is moving. The sudden movement could startle and confuse you, or make you push a pedal when you don’t want to. Adjust the driver’s seat only when the vehicle is not moving.
Lift the lever under the front seat to unlock it. Slide the seat to where you want it. Release the lever and try to move the seat with your body to make sure the seat is locked into place.
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Reclining Front Seatbacks
To adjust the seatback, lift the lever on the outer side of the seat. Release the lever to lock the seatback where you want it. Pull up on the lever, and the seat will go to its original upright position.
But don’t have a seatback reclined if your vehicle is moving.
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CAUTION:
Sitting in a reclined position when your vehicle is in motion can be dangerous. Even if you buckle up, your safety belts can’t do their job when you’re reclined like this.
The shoulder belt can’t do its job because it won’t be against your body. Instead, it will be in front of you. In a crash you could go into it, receiving neck or other injuries.
The lap belt can’t do its job either. In a crash the belt could go up over your abdomen. The belt forces would be there, not at your pelvic bones.
This could cause serious internal injuries.
For proper protection when the vehicle is in motion, have the seatback upright. Then sit well back in the seat and wear your safety belt properly.
Head Restraints
Slide the head restraint up or down so that the top of the restraint is closest to the top of your ears. This position reduces the chance of a neck injury in a crash.
The head restraint can be adjusted to four positions. To raise the restraint, pull up on the restraint. To lower the restraint, push in the release button while you push down on the restraint.
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Easy Entry Seats (2-Door)
The front seats of your vehicle make it easy to get in and out of the rear seat.
D When you pull up on the recliner release lever, the seatback will tilt forward and the whole seat can slide forward when pushed by hand.
D After someone gets into the rear seat area, move the seat rearward until it locks. Then move the seatback to its original position.
CAUTION:
If any easy entry seat isn’t locked, it can move.
In a sudden stop or crash, the person sitting there could be injured. And, even if there is no crash or sudden stop, a driver sitting in an unlocked easy entry seat could be startled by the sudden movement and hit the wrong control or pedal, causing an accident. After you’ve used it, be sure to push rearward on any easy entry seat to be sure it is locked.
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D To get out, push the release pedal on the rear of the passenger’s side front seat.
Rear Seats
CAUTION:
If a head restraint is not installed on the seatback or stored in the vehicle properly, it could be thrown about the vehicle in a crash or sudden maneuver. People in the vehicle could be injured.
Remove the head restraints only when you need to fold the seat, and be sure that the head restraints are stored securely in the top of the folded seat bottom. When the seat is returned to the passenger position, be sure the head restraints are installed properly.
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Folding the Rear Seatback
The rear seat in your vehicle folds to provide more cargo space. To fold the rear seats:
1. Fold the safety belt buckles and center safety belt
(if equipped) into the pocket of the rear seatback.
2. Pull the release straps located near the center of the vehicle to release the seat cushion. Fold the seat cushion forward.
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3. Remove the head restraint from the seatback by raising the head restraint fully. Push the release button and remove the head restraint from the seatback.
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4. Store the head restraint in the top of the folded seat cushion.
5. Pull up on the seatback release knob(s) on top of the seatback and fold the seatback down.
On 2
door models, you must pull up on both release knobs at the same time to lower the seatback.
6. Reach between the seatback and cushion to remove the anchor plate strap.
7. Hook the anchor plate over the button on the seat back.
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To raise the rear seat:
1. Unhook the anchor plate from the button on the seat back.
2. Fold the rear seatback up and make sure it is locked in position. Push and pull on the seatback to ensure it’s locked in position.
3. Remove the head restraint and insert it into the seatback. Make sure the head restraint is secure in the seatback.
4. Insert the anchor plate into its storage slot on the bottom of the seat cushion.
5. Fold the seat cushion back and make sure it is locked into position.
6. Remove the safety belt buckles and center safety belt from the seatback pocket.
Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone
This part of the manual tells you how to use safety belts properly. It also tells you some things you should not do with safety belts.
And it explains the Supplemental Restraint System
(SRS), or air bag system.
CAUTION:
Don’t let anyone ride where he or she can’t wear a safety belt properly. If you are in a crash and you’re not wearing a safety belt, your injuries can be much worse. You can hit things inside the vehicle or be ejected from it. You can be seriously injured or killed. In the same crash, you might not be if you are buckled up. Always fasten your safety belt, and check that your passengers’ belts are fastened properly too.
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CAUTION:
It is extremely dangerous to ride in a cargo area, inside or outside of a vehicle. In a collision, people riding in these areas are more likely to be seriously injured or killed. Do not allow people to ride in any area of your vehicle that is not equipped with seats and safety belts. Be sure everyone in your vehicle is in a seat and using a safety belt properly.
In most states and Canadian provinces, the law says to wear safety belts. Here’s why: They work.
You never know if you’ll be in a crash. If you do have a crash, you don’t know if it will be a bad one.
A few crashes are mild, and some crashes can be so serious that even buckled up a person wouldn’t survive.
But most crashes are in between. In many of them, people who buckle up can survive and sometimes walk away. Without belts they could have been badly hurt or killed.
After more than 30 years of safety belts in vehicles, the facts are clear. In most crashes buckling up does matter ... a lot!
Your vehicle has a light that comes on as a reminder to buckle up. (See “Safety
Belt Reminder Light” in the Index.)
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Why Safety Belts Work
When you ride in or on anything, you go as fast as it goes.
Take the simplest vehicle. Suppose it’s just a seat on wheels.
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Put someone on it.
Get it up to speed. Then stop the vehicle. The rider doesn’t stop.
The person keeps going until stopped by something.
In a real vehicle, it could be the windshield ...
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or the instrument panel ...
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or the safety belts!
With safety belts, you slow down as the vehicle does.
You get more time to stop. You stop over more distance, and your strongest bones take the forces. That’s why safety belts make such good sense.
Here Are Questions Many People Ask
About Safety Belts
--
and the Answers
Q:
Won’t I be trapped in the vehicle after an accident if I’m wearing a safety belt?
A:
You could be
--
whether you’re wearing a safety belt or not. But you can unbuckle a safety belt, even if you’re upside down. And your chance of being conscious during and after an accident, so you can unbuckle and get out, is much greater if you are belted.
Q:
If my vehicle has air bags, why should I have to wear safety belts?
A:
Air bags are in many vehicles today and will be in most of them in the future. But they are supplemental systems only; so they work with safety belts
--
not instead of them. Every air bag system ever offered for sale has required the use of safety belts. Even if you’re in a vehicle that has air bags, you still have to buckle up to get the most protection. That’s true not only in frontal collisions, but especially in side and other collisions.
Q:
If I’m a good driver, and I never drive far from home, why should I wear safety belts?
A:
You may be an excellent driver, but if you’re in an accident
--
even one that isn’t your fault
--
you and your passengers can be hurt. Being a good driver doesn’t protect you from things beyond your control, such as bad drivers.
Most accidents occur within 25 miles (40 km) of home. And the greatest number of serious injuries and deaths occur at speeds of less than
40 mph (65 km/h).
Safety belts are for everyone.
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How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
Adults
This part is only for people of adult size.
Be aware that there are special things to know about safety belts and children. And there are different rules for smaller children and babies. If a child will be riding in your vehicle, see the part of this manual called “Children.”
Follow those rules for everyone’s protection.
First, you’ll want to know which restraint systems your vehicle has.
We’ll start with the driver position.
Driver Position
This part describes the driver’s restraint system.
Lap-Shoulder Belt
The driver has a lap
shoulder belt. Here’s how to wear it properly.
1. Close and lock the door.
2. Adjust the seat (to see how, see “Seats” in the Index) so you can sit up straight.
3. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.
Don’t let it get twisted.
The shoulder belt may lock if you pull the belt across you very quickly. If this happens, let the belt go back slightly to unlock it. Then pull the belt across you more slowly.
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4. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.
If the belt isn’t long enough, see “Safety Belt
Extender” at the end of this section.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
5. To make the lap part tight, pull down on the buckle end of the belt as you pull up on the shoulder belt.
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this applies force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be less likely to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it, the belt would apply force at your abdomen. This could cause serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder belt should go over the shoulder and across the chest. These parts of the body are best able to take belt restraining forces.
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or crash, or if you pull the belt very quickly out of the retractor.
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Shoulder Belt Height Adjuster
Before you begin to drive, move the shoulder belt adjuster to the height that is right for you.
To move it down, pull out the knob and move the height adjuster to the desired position. You can move the adjuster up just by pulling out the knob and sliding the adjuster up. After you move the adjuster to where you want it, try to move it down without pulling out the knob to make sure it has locked into position.
Adjust the height so that the shoulder portion of the belt is centered on your shoulder. The belt should be away from your face and neck, but not falling off your shoulder.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt is too loose. In a crash, you would move forward too much, which could increase injury. The shoulder belt should fit against your body.
A:
The shoulder belt is too loose. It won’t give nearly as much protection this way.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if your belt is buckled in the wrong place like this. In a crash, the belt would go up over your abdomen. The belt forces would be there, not at the pelvic bones. This could cause serious internal injuries. Always buckle your belt into the buckle nearest you.
A:
The belt is buckled in the wrong place.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
A:
The shoulder belt is worn under the arm. It should be worn over the shoulder at all times.
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if you wear the shoulder belt under your arm. In a crash, your body would move too far forward, which would increase the chance of head and neck injury.
Also, the belt would apply too much force to the ribs, which aren’t as strong as shoulder bones.
You could also severely injure internal organs like your liver or spleen.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured by a twisted belt. In a crash, you wouldn’t have the full width of the belt to spread impact forces. If a belt is twisted, make it straight so it can work properly, or ask your dealer to fix it.
A:
The belt is twisted across the body.
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Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
Safety belts work for everyone, including pregnant women. Like all occupants, they are more likely to be seriously injured if they don’t wear safety belts.
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.
The belt should go back out of the way.
Before you close the door, be sure the belt is out of the way. If you slam the door on it, you can damage both the belt and your vehicle.
A pregnant woman should wear a lap
shoulder belt, and the lap portion should be worn as low as possible, below the rounding, throughout the pregnancy.
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The best way to protect the fetus is to protect the mother. When a safety belt is worn properly, it’s more likely that the fetus won’t be hurt in a crash. For pregnant women, as for anyone, the key to making safety belts effective is wearing them properly.
Right Front Passenger Position
To learn how to wear the right front passenger’s safety belt properly, see “Driver Position” earlier in this section.
The right front passenger’s safety belt works the same way as the driver’s safety belt
--
except for one thing.
If you ever pull the shoulder portion of the belt out all the way, you will engage the child restraint locking feature. If this happens, just let the belt go back all the way and start again.
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
This part explains the Supplemental Restraint System
(SRS) or air bag system.
Your vehicle has air bags
--
one air bag for the driver and another air bag for the right front passenger.
Frontal air bags are designed to help reduce the risk of injury from the force of an inflating air bag. But these air bags must inflate very quickly to do their job and comply with federal regulations.
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Here are the most important things to know about the air bag system:
CAUTION:
You can be severely injured or killed in a crash if you aren’t wearing your safety belt
--
even if you have air bags. Wearing your safety belt during a crash helps reduce your chance of hitting things inside the vehicle or being ejected from it. Air bags are “supplemental restraints” to the safety belts. All air bags are designed to work with safety belts, but don’t replace them. Air bags are designed to work only in moderate to severe crashes where the front of your vehicle hits something. They aren’t designed to inflate at all in rollover, rear, side or low
speed frontal crashes. And, for unrestrained occupants, air bags may provide less protection in frontal crashes than more forceful air bags have provided in the past. Everyone in your vehicle should wear a safety belt properly
--
whether or not there’s an air bag for that person.
CAUTION:
Air bags inflate with great force, faster than the blink of an eye. If you’re too close to an inflating air bag, as you would be if you were leaning forward, it could seriously injure you. Safety belts help keep you in position before and during a crash. Always wear your safety belt, even with air bags. The driver should sit as far back as possible while still maintaining control of the vehicle.
CAUTION:
Anyone who is up against, or very close to, any air bag when it inflates can be seriously injured or killed. Air bags plus lap
shoulder belts offer the best protection for adults, but not for young children and infants. Neither the vehicle’s safety belt system nor its air bag system is designed for them. Young children and infants need the protection that a child restraint system can provide. Always secure children properly in your vehicle. To read how, see the part of this manual called “Children.”
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There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument panel, which shows
AIR BAG.
How the Air Bag System Works
The system checks the air bag electrical system for malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical problem. See “Air Bag Readiness Light” in the Index for more information.
Where are the air bags?
The driver’s air bag is in the middle of the steering wheel.
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The right front passenger’s air bag is in the instrument panel on the passenger’s side.
CAUTION:
If something is between an occupant and an air bag, the bag might not inflate properly or it might force the object into that person. The path of an inflating air bag must be kept clear. Don’t put anything between an occupant and an air bag, and don’t attach or put anything on the steering wheel hub or on or near any other air bag covering.
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When should an air bag inflate?
An air bag is designed to inflate in a moderate to severe frontal or near
frontal crash. The air bag will inflate only if the impact speed is above the system’s designed
“threshold level.” If your vehicle goes straight into a wall that doesn’t move or deform, the threshold level is about 8 to 12 mph (13 to 19 km/h). The threshold level can vary, however, with specific vehicle design, so that it can be somewhat above or below this range. If your vehicle strikes something that will move or deform, such as a parked car, the threshold level will be higher. The air bag is not designed to inflate in rollovers, side impacts or rear impacts, because inflation would not help the occupant.
In any particular crash, no one can say whether an air bag should have inflated simply because of the damage to a vehicle or because of what the repair costs were.
Inflation is determined by the angle of the impact and how quickly the vehicle slows down in frontal or near
frontal impacts.
The air bag system is designed to work properly under a wide range of conditions, including off
road usage.
Observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain.
As always, wear your safety belt. See “Off
-
Road
Driving” in the Index for more tips on off
road driving.
What makes an air bag inflate?
In an impact of sufficient severity, the air bag sensing system detects that the vehicle is in a crash. The sensing system triggers a release of gas from the inflator, which inflates the air bag. The inflator, air bag and related hardware are all part of the air bag modules inside the steering wheel and in the instrument panel in front of the right front passenger.
How does an air bag restrain?
In moderate to severe frontal or near
frontal collisions, even belted occupants can contact the steering wheel or the instrument panel. Air bags supplement the protection provided by safety belts. Air bags distribute the force of the impact more evenly over the occupant’s upper body, stopping the occupant more gradually. But air bags would not help you in many types of collisions, including rollovers, rear impacts and side impacts, primarily because an occupant’s motion is not toward those air bags. Air bags should never be regarded as anything more than a supplement to safety belts, and then only in moderate to severe frontal or near
frontal collisions.
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What will you see after an air bag inflates?
After an air bag inflates, it quickly deflates, so quickly that some people may not even realize the air bag inflated. Some components of the air bag module
--
the steering wheel hub for the driver’s air bag, or the instrument panel for the right front passenger’s bag
--
will be hot for a short time. The parts of the bag that come into contact with you may be warm, but not too hot to touch. There will be some smoke and dust coming from vents in the deflated air bags. Air bag inflation doesn’t prevent the driver from seeing or from being able to steer the vehicle, nor does it stop people from leaving the vehicle.
CAUTION:
When an air bag inflates, there is dust in the air.
This dust could cause breathing problems for people with a history of asthma or other breathing trouble. To avoid this, everyone in the vehicle should get out as soon as it is safe to do so.
If you have breathing problems but can’t get out of the vehicle after an air bag inflates, then get fresh air by opening a window or door.
In many crashes severe enough to inflate an air bag, windshields are broken by vehicle deformation.
Additional windshield breakage may also occur from the right front passenger air bag.
D Air bags are designed to inflate only once. After they inflate, you’ll need some new parts for your air bag system. If you don’t get them, the air bag system won’t be there to help protect you in another crash.
A new system will include air bag modules and possibly other parts. The service manual for your vehicle covers the need to replace other parts.
D Your vehicle is equipped with a crash sensing and diagnostic module, which records information about the air bag system. The module records information about the readiness of the system, when the system commands air bag inflation and driver’s safety belt usage at deployment.
D Let only qualified technicians work on your air bag system. Improper service can mean that your air bag system won’t work properly. See your dealer for service.
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NOTICE:
If you damage the covering for the driver’s or the right front passenger’s air bag, the bag may not work properly. You may have to replace the air bag module in the steering wheel or both the air bag module and the instrument panel for the right front passenger’s air bag. Do not open or break the air bag coverings.
If your vehicle ever gets into a lot of water water up to the carpeting or higher
--
such as
--
or if water enters your vehicle and soaks the carpet, the air bag controller can be soaked and ruined. If this ever happens, and then you start your vehicle, the damage could make the air bags inflate, even if there’s no crash. You would have to replace the air bags as well as the sensors and related parts. If your vehicle is ever in a flood, or if it’s exposed to water that soaks the carpet, you can avoid needless repair costs by turning off the vehicle immediately and disconnecting the battery cables. Don’t let anyone start the vehicle under any circumstances. See your dealer for service.
Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle
Air bags affect how your vehicle should be serviced.
There are parts of the air bag system in several places around your vehicle. You don’t want the system to inflate while someone is working on your vehicle.
Your dealer and the service manual have information about servicing your vehicle and the air bag system.
To purchase a service manual, see “Service and Owner
Publications” in the Index.
CAUTION:
For up to 15 seconds after the ignition key is turned off and the battery is disconnected, an air bag can still inflate during improper service. You can be injured if you are close to an air bag when it inflates. Avoid wires wrapped with yellow tape or yellow connectors. They are probably part of the air bag system. Be sure to follow proper service procedures, and make sure the person performing work for you is qualified to do so.
The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.
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Adding Equipment to Your Air
Bag-Equipped Vehicle
Q:
If I add a push bumper or a bicycle rack to the front of my vehicle, will it keep the air bags from working properly?
A:
As long as the push bumper or bicycle rack is attached to your vehicle so that the vehicle’s basic structure isn’t changed, it’s not likely to keep the air bags from working properly in a crash.
Q:
Is there anything I might add to the front of the vehicle that could keep the air bags from working properly?
A:
Yes. If you add things that change your vehicle’s frame, bumper system, front end sheet metal or height, they may keep the air bag system from working properly. Also, the air bag system may not work properly if you relocate any of the air bag sensors. If you have any questions about this, you should contact Customer Assistance before you modify your vehicle. (The phone numbers and addresses for Customer Assistance are in Step Two of the Customer Satisfaction Procedure in this manual. See “Customer Satisfaction Procedure” in the Index.)
Rear Seat Passengers
It’s very important for rear seat passengers to buckle up!
Accident statistics show that unbelted people in the rear seat are hurt more often in crashes than those who are wearing safety belts.
Rear passengers who aren’t safety belted can be thrown out of the vehicle in a crash. And they can strike others in the vehicle who are wearing safety belts.
Rear Seat Outside Passenger Positions
Lap
-
Shoulder Belt
The positions next to the windows have lap
shoulder belts. Here’s how to wear one properly.
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When the shoulder belt is pulled out all the way, it will lock. If it does, let it go back all the way and start again. If the belt is not long enough, see “Safety
Belt Extender” at the end of this section. Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
1. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.
Don’t let it get twisted.
The shoulder belt may lock if you pull the belt across you very quickly. If this happens, let the belt go back slightly to unlock it. Then pull the belt across you more slowly.
2. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.
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3. To make the lap part tight, pull down on the buckle end of the belt as you pull up on the shoulder part.
CAUTION:
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt is too loose. In a crash, you would move forward too much, which could increase injury. The shoulder belt should fit against your body.
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this applies force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be less likely to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it, the belt would apply force at your abdomen. This could cause serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder belt should go over the shoulder and across the chest. These parts of the body are best able to take belt restraining forces.
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or a crash, or if you pull the belt very quickly out of the retractor.
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.
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Center Passenger Position
(4
-
Door Models)
Lap Belt
When you sit in the center seating position, you have a lap safety belt, which has no retractor. To make the belt longer, tilt the latch plate and pull it along the belt.
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To make the belt shorter, pull its free end as shown until the belt is snug.
Buckle, position and release it the same way as the lap part of a lap
shoulder belt. If the belt isn’t long enough, see “Safety Belt Extender” at the end of this section.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
Children
Everyone in a vehicle needs protection! That includes infants and all children smaller than adult size. Neither the distance traveled nor the age and size of the traveler changes the need, for everyone, to use safety restraints.
In fact, the law in every state in the United States and in every Canadian province says children up to some age must be restrained while in a vehicle.
Smaller Children and Babies
CAUTION:
Children who are up against, or very close to, any air bag when it inflates can be seriously injured or killed. Air bags plus lap
shoulder belts offer the best protection for adults, but not for young children and infants. Neither the vehicle’s safety belt system nor its air bag system is designed for them. Young children and infants need the protection that a child restraint system can provide. Always secure children properly in your vehicle.
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CAUTION:
Smaller children and babies should always be restrained in a child or infant restraint. The instructions for the restraint will say whether it is the right type and size for your child. A very young child’s hip bones are so small that a regular belt might not stay low on the hips, as it should. Instead, the belt will likely be over the child’s abdomen. In a crash, the belt would apply force right on the child’s abdomen, which could cause serious or fatal injuries. So, be sure that any child small enough for one is always properly restrained in a child or infant restraint.
Infants need complete support, including support for the head and neck. This is necessary because an infant’s neck is weak and its head weighs so much compared with the rest of its body. In a frontal crash, an infant in a rear
facing restraint settles into the restraint, so the crash forces can be distributed across the strongest part of the infant’s body, the back and shoulders. A baby should be secured in an appropriate infant restraint. This is so important that many hospitals today won’t release a newborn infant to its parents unless there is an infant restraint available for the baby’s first trip in a motor vehicle.
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CAUTION:
Never hold a baby in your arms while riding in a vehicle. A baby doesn’t weigh much
--
until a crash. During a crash a baby will become so heavy you can’t hold it. For example, in a crash
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued) at only 25 mph (40 km/h), a 12
lb. (5.5 kg) baby will suddenly become a 240
lb. (110 kg) force on your arms. The baby would be almost impossible to hold.
Secure the baby in an infant restraint.
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Child Restraints
Every time infants and young children ride in vehicles, they should have protection provided by appropriate restraints.
Q:
What are the different types of add
on child restraints?
A:
Add
on child restraints are available in four basic types. When selecting a child restraint, take into consideration not only the child’s weight and size, but also whether or not the restraint will be compatible with the motor vehicle in which it will be used.
An infant car bed (A) is a special bed made for use in a motor vehicle. It’s an infant restraint system designed to restrain or position a child on a continuous flat surface. With an infant car bed, make sure that the infant’s head rests toward the center of the vehicle.
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A rear
facing infant restraint (B) positions an infant to face the rear of the vehicle. Rear
facing infant restraints are designed for infants of up to about
20 lbs. (9 kg) and about one year of age. This type of restraint faces the rear so that the infant’s head, neck and body can have the support they need in a frontal crash. Some infant seats come in two parts
--
the base stays secured in the vehicle and the seat part is removable.
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A forward
facing child restraint (C
-
E) positions a child upright to face forward in the vehicle. These forward
facing restraints are designed to help protect children who are from 20 to 40 lbs.
(9 to 18 kg) and about 26 to 40 inches
(66 to 102 cm) in height, or up to around four years of age. One type, a convertible restraint, is designed to be used either as a rear
facing infant seat or a forward
facing child seat.
A booster seat (F) is designed for children who are about 40 to 60 lbs., or even up to 80 lbs.
(18 to 27 kg, or even up to 36 kg), and about four to eight years of age. A booster seat is designed to improve the fit of the vehicle’s safety belt system.
Booster seats with shields use lap
only belts; however, booster seats without shields use lap
shoulder belts. Booster seats can also help a child to see out the window.
When choosing a child restraint, be sure the child restraint is designed to be used in a vehicle. If it is, it will have a label saying that it meets federal motor vehicle safety standards.
Then follow the instructions for the restraint. You may find these instructions on the restraint itself or in a booklet, or both. These restraints use the belt system in your vehicle, but the child also has to be secured within the restraint to help reduce the chance of personal injury.
The instructions that come with the infant or child restraint will show you how to do that. Both the owner’s manual and the child restraint instructions are important, so if either one of these is not available, obtain a replacement copy from the manufacturer.
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Where to Put the Restraint
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they are restrained in the rear rather than the front seat. We at
General Motors therefore recommend that you put your child restraint in the rear seat. Never put a rear
facing child restraint in the front passenger seat. Here’s why:
Wherever you install it, be sure to secure the child restraint properly.
Keep in mind that an unsecured child restraint can move around in a collision or sudden stop and injure people in the vehicle. Be sure to properly secure any child restraint in your vehicle
--
even when no child is in it.
CAUTION:
A child in a rear
facing child restraint can be seriously injured or killed if the right front passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because the back of the rear
facing child restraint would be very close to the inflating air bag. Always secure a rear
facing child restraint in a rear seat.
You may secure a forward
facing child restraint in the right front seat, but before you do, always move the front passenger seat as far back as it will go. It’s better to secure the child restraint in a rear seat.
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Top Strap
In Canada, the law requires that forward
facing child restraints have a top strap, and that the strap be anchored. In the United States, some child restraints also have a top strap. If your child restraint has a top strap, it should be anchored.
If you need to have an anchor installed, you can ask your dealer to put one in for you. This work will be done for you free of charge. If you want to install an anchor yourself, your dealer can tell you how to do it. Use the tether hardware kit available from the dealer. The hardware and installation instructions were specifically designed for this vehicle.
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Securing a Child Restraint in a Rear
Outside Seat Position
You’ll be using the lap
shoulder belt. See the earlier part about the top strap if the child restraint has one. Be sure to follow the instructions that came with the child restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and as the instructions say.
1. Put the restraint on the seat.
2. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the restraint. The child restraint instructions will show you how.
If the shoulder belt goes in front of the child’s face or neck, put it behind the child restraint.
3. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
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4. Pull the rest of the shoulder belt all the way out of the retractor to set the lock.
5. To tighten the belt, feed the shoulder belt back into the retractor while you push down on the child restraint. If you’re using a forward
facing child restraint, you may find it helpful to use your knee to push down on the child restraint as you tighten the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different directions to be sure it is secure.
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To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety belt will move freely again and be ready to work for an adult or larger child passenger.
Securing a Child Restraint in the Center
Rear Seat Position (4-Door Models)
You’ll be using the lap belt. Be sure to follow the instructions that came with the child restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and as the instructions say.
See the earlier part about the top strap if the child restraint has one.
1. Make the belt as long as possible by tilting the latch plate and pulling it along the belt.
2. Put the restraint on the seat.
3. Run the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the restraint. The child restraint instructions will show you how.
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To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s safety belt. It will be ready to work for an adult or larger child passenger.
Securing a Child Restraint in the Right
Front Seat Position
4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
5. To tighten the belt, pull its free end while you push down on the child restraint. If you’re using a forward
facing child restraint, you may find it helpful to use your knee to push down on the child restraint as you tighten the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different directions to be sure it is secure.
Your vehicle has a right front passenger air bag. Never put a rear
facing child restraint in this seat. Here’s why:
CAUTION:
A child in a rear
facing child restraint can be seriously injured or killed if the right front passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because the back of the rear
facing child restraint would be very close to the inflating air bag. Always secure a rear
facing child restraint in the rear seat.
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Although a rear seat is a safer place, you can secure a forward
facing child restraint in the right front seat.
You’ll be using the lap
shoulder belt. See the earlier part about the top strap if the child restraint has one. Be sure to follow the instructions that came with the child restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and as the instructions say.
1. Because your vehicle has a right front passenger air bag, always move the seat as far back as it will go before securing a forward
facing child restraint.
(See “Seats” in the Index.)
2. Put the restraint on the seat.
3. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the restraint. The child restraint instructions will show you how.
If the shoulder belt goes in front of the child’s face or neck, put it behind the child restraint.
4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
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5. Pull the rest of the shoulder belt all the way out of the retractor to set the lock.
6. To tighten the belt, feed the shoulder belt back into the retractor while you push down on the child restraint.
You may find it helpful to use your knee to push down on the child restraint as you tighten the belt.
7. Push and pull the child restraint in different directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety belt will move freely again and be ready to work for an adult or larger child passenger.
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Larger Children
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they are restrained in the rear seat. But they need to use the safety belts properly.
D Children who aren’t buckled up can be thrown out in a crash.
D Children who aren’t buckled up can strike other people who are.
Children who have outgrown child restraints should wear the vehicle’s safety belts.
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CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here two children are wearing the same belt. The belt can’t properly spread the impact forces. In a crash, the two children can be crushed together and seriously injured. A belt must be used by only one person at a time.
Q:
What if a child is wearing a lap
shoulder belt, but the child is so small that the shoulder belt is very close to the child’s face or neck?
A:
Move the child toward the center of the vehicle, but be sure that the shoulder belt still is on the child’s shoulder, so that in a crash the child’s upper body would have the restraint that belts provide. If the child is so small that the shoulder belt is still very close to the child’s face or neck, you might want to place the child in a seat that has a lap belt, if your vehicle has one.
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1-52
CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here a child is sitting in a seat that has a lap
shoulder belt, but the shoulder part is behind the child. If the child wears the belt in this way, in a crash the child might slide under the belt. The belt’s force would then be applied right on the child’s abdomen. That could cause serious or fatal injuries.
Wherever the child sits, the lap portion of the belt should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching the child’s thighs. This applies belt force to the child’s pelvic bones in a crash.
Safety Belt Extender
If the vehicle’s safety belt will fasten around you, you should use it.
But if a safety belt isn’t long enough to fasten, your dealer will order you an extender. It’s free. When you go in to order it, take the heaviest coat you will wear, so the extender will be long enough for you. The extender will be just for you, and just for the seat in your vehicle that you choose. Don’t let someone else use it, and use it only for the seat it is made to fit. To wear it, just attach it to the regular safety belt.
Checking Your Restraint Systems
Now and then, make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired.
Torn or frayed safety belts may not protect you in a crash. They can rip apart under impact forces. If a belt is torn or frayed, get a new one right away.
Also look for any opened or broken air bag covers, and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.)
Replacing Restraint System Parts
After a Crash
If you’ve had a crash, do you need new belts?
After a very minor collision, nothing may be necessary.
But if the belts were stretched, as they would be if worn during a more severe crash, then you need new belts.
If belts are cut or damaged, replace them. Collision damage also may mean you will need to have safety belt or seat parts repaired or replaced. New parts and repairs may be necessary even if the belt wasn’t being used at the time of the collision.
If an air bag inflates, you’ll need to replace air bag system parts. See the part on the air bag system earlier in this section.
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Section 2 Features and Controls
Here you can learn about the many standard and optional features on your vehicle, and information on starting, shifting and braking. Also explained are the instrument panel and the warning systems that tell you if everything is working properly
--
and what to do if you have a problem.
Remote Keyless Entry System (If Equipped)
14 Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
16 Automatic Transmission Operation
20 Manual Transmission Operation
25 Shifting Into PARK (P) (Automatic
27 Shifting Out of PARK (P) (Automatic
28 Parking Over Things That Burn
32 Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
48 Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter
49 Convertible Top (If Equipped)
29 Running Your Engine While You’re Parked
59 Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators
2-1
Keys
CAUTION:
Leaving children in a vehicle with the ignition key is dangerous for many reasons. A child or others could be badly injured or even killed.
They could operate the power windows or other controls or even make the vehicle move.
Don’t leave the keys in a vehicle with children.
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One key is used for the ignition, the doors and all other locks.
When a new vehicle is delivered, the dealer removes the metal plate from the key ring and gives it to the first owner.
The metal plate has a code on it that tells your dealer or a qualified locksmith how to make extra keys. Keep the code in a safe place. If you lose your keys, you’ll be able to have new ones made easily using this code.
If you need a new key, contact your Chevrolet dealer who can obtain the correct key code. In an emergency, call the Chevrolet Roadside Assistance Program at
1
R
(1
-
800
-
243
-
8872). In Canada call
1
-
800
-
CHEV
-
USA
-
800
-
268
-
6800.
NOTICE:
Your vehicle has a number of features that can help prevent theft. However, you can have a lot of trouble getting into your vehicle if you ever lock your key inside. You may even have to damage your vehicle to get in. So be sure you have an extra key.
2-3
Door Locks
CAUTION:
Unlocked doors can be dangerous.
Passengers
--
especially children
--
can easily open the doors and fall out. When a door is locked, the inside handle won’t open it.
Outsiders can easily enter through an unlocked door when you slow down or stop your vehicle.
This may not be so obvious: You increase the chance of being thrown out of the vehicle in a crash if the doors aren’t locked. Wear safety belts properly, lock your doors, and you will be far better off whenever you drive your vehicle.
There are several ways to lock and unlock your vehicle.
From the outside, use your key. To lock the door, turn the key toward the front of the vehicle. To unlock the door, turn the key toward the rear.
To lock the door from the inside, push down the lock rod on the door. To unlock it, pull up on the lock rod.
If your vehicle is equipped with the remote keyless entry system, you can use the transmitter to lock and unlock the doors. See “Remote Keyless Entry System” later in this section.
2-4
Power Door Locks (If Equipped)
If you have power door locks, the switch is located on the driver’s and passenger’s door armrest.
Rear Door Security Locks (4-Door Models)
Your vehicle is equipped with rear door security locks that help prevent passengers from opening the rear doors of your vehicle from the inside.
The rear security door locks are located on the inside rear doors.
To lock all the doors and the tailgate, press the right side of the switch. To unlock the doors and tailgate, press the left side of the switch.
To Use One of These Locks
1. Move the lever down to engage the lock.
2. Close the door.
3. Do the same to the other rear door lock.
The rear doors of your vehicle cannot be opened from the inside when this feature is in use.
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To Open a Rear Door With the Security Lock
If you want to open a rear door when the security lock is on, unlock the door from the inside, then open the door from the outside.
If you don’t cancel the security lock feature, adults or older children who ride in the rear won’t be able to open the rear door from the inside. You should let adults and older children know how these security locks work, and how to cancel the locks.
To Cancel the Rear Door Lock
1. Unlock the door from the inside and open the door from the outside.
2. Move the lever up to disengage the lock.
3. Do the same for the other rear door.
The rear door locks will now work normally.
Leaving Your Vehicle
If you are leaving the vehicle, take your key, open your door and set the locks from inside. Then get out and close the door.
Remote Keyless Entry System
(If Equipped)
If your vehicle is equipped with this feature, you can lock and unlock your doors or unlock your rear door from about 3 feet (1 m) up to 30 feet (9 m) away using the remote keyless entry transmitter supplied with your vehicle.
Your remote keyless entry system operates on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications
Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry Canada.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.
2-6
This device complies with RSS
-
210 of Industry Canada.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.
At times you may notice a decrease in range. This is normal for any remote keyless entry system. If the transmitter does not work or if you have to stand closer to your vehicle for the transmitter to work, try this:
D Check the distance. You may be too far from your vehicle. You may need to stand closer during rainy or snowy weather.
D Check the location. Other vehicles or objects may be blocking the signal. Take a few steps to the left or right, hold the transmitter higher, and try again.
D Check to determine if battery replacement is necessary. See the instructions that follow.
D If you’re still having trouble, see your dealer or a qualified technician for service.
Operation
The following functions are available with the remote keyless entry system:
LOCK: All doors will automatically lock when the
LOCK button on the transmitter is pressed.
UNLOCK: The driver’s door will unlock automatically when the UNLOCK button on the transmitter is pressed.
If the UNLOCK button is pressed again within five seconds, all remaining doors will be unlocked.
Matching Transmitter(s) To Your Vehicle
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle.
If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any remaining transmitters with you when you go to your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your vehicle. Each vehicle can have only two transmitters matched to it.
2-7
Battery Replacement
Under normal use, the battery in your remote keyless entry transmitter should last about two years.
You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won’t work at the normal range in any location. If you have to get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works, it’s probably time to change the battery.
NOTICE:
When replacing the battery, use care not to touch any of the circuitry. Static from your body transferred to these surfaces may damage the transmitter.
To replace the battery in the transmitter:
1. Use a small coin or flathead screwdriver to separate the bottom half from the top half of the transmitter.
2. Remove the battery and replace it with the new one.
Make sure the positive (+) side of the battery faces down. For battery replacement, use a 3
volt battery, type CR2032 or equivalent.
2-8
3. Read the instructions inside the case.
4. Put the two halves back together. Make sure the cover is on tightly so water won’t get in.
5. Check the operation of the transmitter with your vehicle. If the transmitter does not work, try resynchronizing the transmitter with the receiver.
Resynchronization
Your remote keyless entry system is equipped with a security system that prevents anyone from recording and playing back your signal. The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver will not respond to a signal that has been sent to it more than once.
To resynchronize your transmitter and receiver, follow these directions:
1. Stand close to your vehicle.
2. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter at the same time.
3. Hold the buttons for at least seven seconds. During this time, the doors should lock and unlock once.
This confirms the resynchronization. If the doors do not lock and unlock, see your dealer for service.
Tailgate
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to drive with the tailgate open because carbon monoxide (CO) gas can come into your vehicle. You can’t see or smell
CO. It can cause unconsciousness and even death.
If you must drive with the tailgate open or if electrical wiring or other cable connections must pass through the seal between the body and the tailgate:
D Make sure all other windows are shut.
D Turn the fan on your heating or cooling
system to its highest speed with the setting on CIRCULATE. That will force outside air into your vehicle. See “Comfort
Controls” in the Index.
D If you have air outlets on or under the
instrument panel, open them all the way.
See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.
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Tailgate Lock Release
Use your key to lock or unlock your tailgate.
If you have a convertible, you can still open or close the tailgate with the rear window closed.
Theft
Vehicle theft is big business, especially in some cities.
Although your vehicle has a number of theft
deterrent features, we know that nothing we put on it can make it impossible to steal. However, there are ways you can help.
Key in the Ignition
If you leave your vehicle with the keys inside, it’s an easy target for joy riders or professional thieves
--
so don’t do it.
When you park your vehicle and open the driver’s door, you’ll hear a tone reminding you to remove your key from the ignition and take it with you. Always do this.
Your steering wheel will be locked, and so will your ignition. If you have an automatic transmission, taking your key out also locks your transmission. Also remember to lock the doors.
Parking at Night
Park in a lighted spot, close all windows and lock your vehicle. Remember to keep your valuables out of sight.
Put them in a storage area, or take them with you.
Parking Lots
If you park in a lot where someone will be watching your vehicle, it’s best to lock it up and take your keys.
But what if you have to leave your ignition key? What if you have to leave something valuable in your vehicle?
D Put your valuables in a storage area, like your glove box.
D Lock your glove box.
D Close all windows.
D If possible, park in a busy, well lit area.
D If your vehicle has a remote keyless entry system, take the transmitter with you.
D Lock all the doors except the driver’s.
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New Vehicle “Break
-
In”
NOTICE:
Your vehicle doesn’t need an elaborate
“break
in.” But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:
D Keep your speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) or
less for the first 500 miles (805 km).
D Don’t drive at any one speed
--
fast or slow
--
for the first 500 miles (805 km).
Don’t make full
throttle starts.
D Avoid making hard stops for the first
200 miles (322 km) or so. During this time your new brake linings aren’t yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement.
Follow this breaking
in guideline every time you get new brake linings.
D Don’t tow a trailer during break
in.
See “Towing a Trailer” in the Index for more information.
Ignition Positions
With the key in the ignition switch, you can turn the switch to four positions.
LOCK (A): This is the only position in which you can remove the key. This locks your steering wheel, ignition and automatic transmission.
If you have an automatic transmission, the ignition switch can’t be turned to LOCK unless the shift lever is in PARK (P).
ACC (ACCESSORY) (B): This is the position in which you can operate your electrical power accessories. It also unlocks the steering wheel and ignition. Use this position if your vehicle must be pushed or towed.
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ON (C): This is the position that the switch returns to after you start your engine and release the switch. The switch stays in the ON position when the engine is running. But even when the engine is not running, you can use ON to operate your electrical power accessories and to display some instrument panel cluster warning and indicator lights.
START (D): This is the position that starts the engine.
When the engine starts, release the key. The ignition switch will return to ON for normal driving.
When the engine is not running, ACC and ON allow you to operate your electrical accessories, such as the radio.
A warning tone will sound if you open the driver’s door when the ignition is in ACC or LOCK and the key is in the ignition.
CAUTION:
On manual transmission vehicles, turning the key to LOCK will lock the steering column and result in a loss of ability to steer the vehicle. This could cause a collision. If you need to turn the engine off while the vehicle is moving, turn the key only to ACC. Don’t push the key in while the vehicle is moving.
NOTICE:
If your key seems stuck in LOCK and you can’t turn it, be sure you are using the correct key; if so, is it all the way in? If it is, then turn the steering wheel left and right while you turn the key hard. But turn the key only with your hand.
Using a tool to force it could break the key or the ignition switch. If none of this works, then your vehicle needs service.
2-12
Starting Your Engine
Automatic Transmission
Move your shift lever to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N).
Your engine won’t start in any other position
--
that’s a safety feature. To restart when you’re already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only.
NOTICE:
Don’t try to shift to PARK (P) if your vehicle is moving. If you do, you could damage the transmission. Shift to PARK (P) only when your vehicle is stopped.
Manual Transmission
The gear selector should be in NEUTRAL and the parking brake engaged. Hold the clutch pedal to the floor and start the engine. Your vehicle won’t start if the clutch pedal is not all the way down
--
that’s a safety feature.
Starting Your Engine
For cold and warm engines
--
1. Without pushing the accelerator pedal, turn your ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key.
NOTICE:
Holding your key in START for longer than
15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat can damage your starter motor. Wait about
15 seconds between each try to help avoid draining your battery or damaging your starter.
2. If it doesn’t start, push the accelerator pedal one
third of the way down. Hold it there, for not more than 15 seconds at a time, while you turn your key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key and release the pedal. Wait about 15 seconds between each try to help avoid draining your battery or damaging your starter.
2-13
3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline.
Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in
START for about three seconds. If the vehicle starts briefly but then stops again, do the same thing, but this time keep the pedal down for five or six seconds.
This clears the extra gasoline from the engine.
Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
NOTICE:
Your engine is designed to work with the electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical parts or accessories, you could change the way the engine operates. Before adding electrical equipment, check with your dealer. If you don’t, your engine might not perform properly.
If you ever have to have your vehicle towed, see the part of this manual that tells how to do it without damaging your vehicle. See “Towing
Your Vehicle” in the Index.
In very cold weather, 0
_F (
-
18
_C) or colder, the engine coolant heater can help. You’ll get easier starting and better fuel economy during engine warm
up. Usually, the coolant heater should be plugged in a minimum of four hours prior to starting your vehicle.
2-14
To Use the Engine Coolant Heater
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord. It is located at the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side.
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 110
volt AC outlet.
4. Before starting the engine, be sure to unplug and store the cord as it was before to keep it away from moving engine parts. If you don’t, it could be damaged.
How long should you keep the coolant heater plugged in? The answer depends on the outside temperature, the kind of oil you have, and some other things. Instead of trying to list everything here, we ask that you contact your dealer in the area where you’ll be parking your vehicle. The dealer can give you the best advice for that particular area.
CAUTION:
Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet could cause an electrical shock. Also, the wrong kind of extension cord could overheat and cause a fire. You could be seriously injured. Plug the cord into a properly grounded three
prong
110
volt AC outlet. If the cord won’t reach, use a heavy
duty three
prong extension cord rated for at least 15 amps.
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Automatic Transmission Operation
There are several different positions for your shift lever.
PARK (P): This locks your rear wheels. It’s the best position to use when you start your engine because your vehicle can’t move easily.
CAUTION:
It is dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is running unless you have to. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.
You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, always set your parking brake and move the shift lever to PARK (P).
If you have four
wheel drive, your vehicle will be free to roll
--
even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P)
--
if your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL (N). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear, two
wheel high (2H) or four
wheel high (4H) or four
wheel low (4L)
--
not in
NEUTRAL (N). See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index. If you’re pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
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Ensure the shift lever is fully in PARK (P) before starting the engine. Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock control system. You have to fully apply your regular brakes before you can shift from
PARK (P) when the ignition key is in ON. If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever
--
push the shift lever all the way into PARK (P) and release the shift lever button as you maintain brake application. Then press the shift lever button and move the shift lever into the gear you wish. See “Shifting Out of PARK (P)” in the Index.
REVERSE (R): Use this gear to back up.
NEUTRAL (N): In this position, your engine doesn’t connect with the wheels. To restart when you’re already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only. Also, use
NEUTRAL (N) when your vehicle is being towed.
CAUTION:
Shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) while your engine is “racing” (running at high speed) is dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the brake pedal, your vehicle could move very rapidly. You could lose control and hit people or objects. Don’t shift out of PARK (P) or
NEUTRAL (N) while your engine is racing.
NOTICE:
Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle is moving forward could damage your transmission.
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle is stopped.
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow, ice or sand without damaging your transmission, see
“Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow” in the Index.
NOTICE:
Damage to your transmission caused by shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) with the engine racing isn’t covered by your warranty.
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DRIVE (D): This position is for normal driving.
If you need more power for passing, and you’re:
D Going less than about 15 mph (25 km/h), push your accelerator pedal about halfway down.
D Going about 15 mph (25 km/h) or more, push your accelerator pedal all the way down.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and have more power.
SECOND (2): This position gives you more power but lower fuel economy. You can use SECOND (2) on hills.
It can help control your speed as you go down steep mountain roads, but then you would also want to use your brakes off and on.
NOTICE:
Don’t shift into SECOND (2) unless you are going slower than 65 mph (105 km/h) with the transfer case in FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H), or 35 mph (55 km/h) with the transfer case in
FOUR
-
WHEEL LOW (4L) or you can damage your transmission.
LOW (L): This position gives you even more power but lower fuel economy than SECOND (2). You can use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the selector lever is put in LOW (L), the transmission won’t shift into low gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
NOTICE:
Don’t shift into LOW (L) at speeds above
40 mph (65 km/h) with the transfer case in
FOUR
-
WHEEL LOW (4L), or you can damage your transmission.
NOTICE:
If your rear wheels can’t rotate, don’t try to drive. This might happen if you were stuck in very deep sand or mud or were up against a solid object. You could damage your transmission.
Also, if you stop when going uphill, don’t hold your vehicle there with only the accelerator pedal. This could overheat and damage the transmission. Use your brakes to hold your vehicle in position on a hill.
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Overdrive Off Switch (If Equipped)
The overdrive off switch is located on the left side of the shift lever. By operating the overdrive off switch, the four
speed automatic transmission (three
speed plus overdrive) can be converted to a three
speed automatic transmission. While in the three
speed mode, the transmission will not shift into the overdrive position.
To convert the transmission to the three
speed mode, push in the overdrive off switch and release it.
The switch will come out and the OD/OFF indicator light on the instrument panel cluster will come on. The
Overdrive Off switch is for normal driving, however, it also offers more power and lower fuel economy than driving in the overdrive position. Here are some times you might choose to drive with the overdrive off switch engaged:
D When driving on hilly, winding roads.
D When going down a steep hill.
To return the transmission to the four
speed mode, push in the overdrive off switch again. The switch will remain in and the OD/OFF indicator light will go off.
Disengaging the Overdrive Off switch is for normal driving with the four
speed automatic transaxle.
If you need more power for passing, and you’re:
D Going less than about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your accelerator pedal about halfway down.
D Going about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your accelerator all the way down.
Please note that if the transfer case shift lever is in the
4L position, the four
speed automatic transmission will remain in the three
speed mode.
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Power Mode Selector Switch
A power mode selector switch is included with the four
speed automatic transmission.
Manual Transmission Operation
5-Speed
This is your shift pattern.
Here’s how to operate your transmission:
When you need more power for climbing hills or quicker acceleration, press the P (power) switch. The
POWER indicator light on the instrument panel cluster will come on. For normal driving, press the N (normal) switch. The POWER indicator light will go off.
FIRST (1): Press the clutch pedal and shift into
FIRST (1). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.
You can shift into FIRST (1) when you’re going less than 20 mph (32 km/h). If you’ve come to a complete stop and it’s hard to shift into FIRST (1), put the shift lever in NEUTRAL and let up on the clutch. Press the clutch pedal back down. Then shift into FIRST (1).
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SECOND (2): Press the clutch pedal as you let up on the accelerator pedal and shift into SECOND (2). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.
THIRD (3), FOURTH (4), FIFTH (5): Shift into
THIRD (3), FOURTH (4) and FIFTH (5) the same way you do for SECOND (2). Slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.
To stop, let up on the accelerator pedal and press the brake pedal. Just before the vehicle stops, press the clutch pedal and the brake pedal, and shift to NEUTRAL.
NEUTRAL: Use this position when you start or idle your engine.
REVERSE (R): To back up, press down the clutch pedal and shift into REVERSE (R). Let up on the clutch pedal slowly while pressing the accelerator pedal.
You cannot go from FIFTH (5) into REVERSE (R).
If you try, you will be locked out. You must first shift into NEUTRAL, move the lever to the left, back to the right, and then shift into REVERSE (R). This is a safety feature.
NOTICE:
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle is stopped. Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle is moving could damage your transmission.
Also, use REVERSE (R) along with the parking brake for parking your vehicle.
Shift Speeds
CAUTION:
If you skip a gear when you downshift, you could lose control of your vehicle. You could injure yourself or others. Don’t shift down more than one gear at a time when you downshift.
If your speed drops below 20 mph (32 km/h), or if the engine is not running smoothly, you should downshift to the next lower gear. You may have to downshift two or more gears to keep the engine running smoothly or for good performance.
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Four
-
Wheel Drive (If Equipped)
If your vehicle has four
wheel drive, you can send your engine’s driving power to all four wheels for extra traction. To shift out of two
wheel drive and into four
wheel drive, move the transfer case shift lever to
FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H) or FOUR
-
WHEEL
LOW (4L) (see the following). You should use
TWO
-
WHEEL HIGH (2H) for most normal driving.
NOTICE:
Driving in FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H) or
FOUR
-
WHEEL LOW (4L) positions for a long time on dry or wet pavement could shorten the life of your vehicle’s drivetrain.
Transfer Case
The transfer case shift lever is on the floor to the right of the driver. Use this lever to shift into and out of four
wheel drive. An indicator light comes on when the transfer case is in FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H) or
FOUR
-
WHEEL LOW (4L).
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TWO
-
WHEEL HIGH (2H): This setting is for driving in most street and highway situations. Your front axle is not engaged in two
wheel drive.
FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H): This setting engages your front axle to help drive your vehicle. Use
FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H) when you need extra traction, such as on wet or icy roads, or in most off
road situations.
NEUTRAL (N): Shift to this setting only when your vehicle needs to be towed.
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P), or if you have a manual transmission, even if you are in gear. You or someone else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set the parking brake before placing the transfer case in NEUTRAL (N). See “Parking
Brake” in the Index.
FOUR
-
WHEEL LOW (4L): This setting also engages your front axle to give you extra traction and can be used for driving downhill, uphill or on rocky terrain when you’re driving slower than 35 mph (55 km/h).
Remember that driving in FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H) or FOUR
-
WHEEL LOW (4L) may reduce fuel economy. Also, driving in four
wheel drive on dry pavement could cause your tires to wear faster and make your transfer case harder to shift.
You can shift from TWO
-
WHEEL HIGH (2H) to
FOUR
-
WHEEL HIGH (4H) or from FOUR
-
WHEEL
HIGH (4H) to TWO
-
WHEEL HIGH (2H) at any speed if your vehicle is going less than 60 mph (100 kph) and your wheels are straight ahead. Your front axle will engage faster if you take your foot off the accelerator pedal for a few seconds as you shift.
Shifting Into or Out of FOUR
-
WHEEL LOW (4L)
1. Stop your vehicle and shift your transmission to NEUTRAL (N).
2. Shift the transfer case in one continuous motion.
Don’t pause in NEUTRAL (N) as you shift from
FOUR
-
WHEEL
-
LOW (4L) to FOUR
-
WHEEL
HIGH (4H), or your gears could clash.
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Parking Brake
To set the parking brake, hold the brake pedal down and pull up on the parking brake lever. If the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will come on.
To release the parking brake, hold the brake pedal down.
Pull the parking brake lever up until you can push in the release button. Hold the release button in as you move the lever all the way down.
NOTICE:
Driving with the parking brake on can cause your rear brakes to overheat. You may have to replace them, and you could also damage other parts of your vehicle.
If you are towing a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
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Shifting Into PARK (P)
(Automatic Transmission Only)
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured.
To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. With four
wheel drive if your transfer case is in NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
--
not in NEUTRAL (N). If you’re pulling a trailer, see
“Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
1. Hold the brake pedal down with your right foot and set the parking brake.
2. Move the shift lever into PARK (P) by holding in the button on the lever and pushing the lever all the way toward the front of your vehicle.
3. If you have four
wheel drive, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
--
not in NEUTRAL (N).
4. Move the key to LOCK.
5. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can leave your vehicle with the key in your hand, your vehicle is in PARK (P).
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Leaving Your Vehicle With the Engine
Running (Automatic Transmission Only)
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to leave your vehicle with the engine running. Your vehicle could move suddenly if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. If you have four
wheel drive and your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
--
not in
NEUTRAL (N). And, if you leave the vehicle with the engine running, it could overheat and even catch fire. You or others could be injured. Don’t leave your vehicle with the engine running unless you have to.
Torque Lock (Automatic Transmission)
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your transmission into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of PARK (P). This is called “torque lock.”
To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then shift into PARK (P) properly before you leave the driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into
PARK (P)” in the Index.
When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.
If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, so you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P).
2-26
Shifting Out of PARK (P)
(Automatic Transmission Only)
Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock control system. You have to fully apply your regular brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when the ignition is in the ON position. See “Automatic
Transmission” in the Index.
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever
--
push the shift lever all the way into
PARK (P) and release the shift lever button as you maintain brake application. Then press the shift lever button and move the shift lever into the gear you wish to be in.
If you ever hold the brake pedal down but still can’t shift out of PARK (P), try this:
1. Apply the parking brake until the end of Step 6.
2. If the engine is running, turn it off. Turn the key to
ON or ACC.
2-27
3. Find the access hole cover on the driver’s side of the console, near the shift lever.
4. Remove the screw and cover.
5. Inside, you’ll see the return plate. Using your finger, move the return plate toward the rear of the vehicle until it stops.
6. Move the shift lever into the gear you want.
7. Have the vehicle fixed as soon as possible.
Parking Your Vehicle
(Manual Transmission Models Only)
Before you get out of your vehicle, put your manual transmission in REVERSE (R) and firmly apply the parking brake.
If you have four
wheel drive, be sure your transfer case is in a drive gear. Your vehicle could roll if it isn’t.
If you are towing a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
Parking Over Things That Burn
CAUTION:
Things that can burn could touch hot exhaust parts under your vehicle and ignite. Don’t park over papers, leaves, dry grass or other things that can burn.
2-28
Engine Exhaust
CAUTION:
Engine exhaust can kill. It contains the gas carbon monoxide (CO), which you can’t see or smell. It can cause unconsciousness and death.
You might have exhaust coming in if:
D Your exhaust system sounds strange
or different.
D Your vehicle gets rusty underneath.
D Your vehicle was damaged in a collision.
D Your vehicle was damaged when driving over
high points on the road or over road debris.
D Repairs weren’t done correctly.
D Your vehicle or exhaust system had been
modified improperly.
If you ever suspect exhaust is coming into your vehicle:
D Drive it only with all the windows down to
blow out any CO; and
D Have your vehicle fixed immediately.
Running Your Engine While You’re
Parked (Automatic Transmission)
It’s better not to park with the engine running. But if ever you have to, here are some things to know.
CAUTION:
Idling the engine with the climate control system off could allow dangerous exhaust into your vehicle (see the earlier Caution under
“Engine Exhaust”).
Also, idling in a closed
in place can let deadly carbon monoxide (CO) into your vehicle even if the fan switch is at the highest setting. One place this can happen is a garage. Exhaust
--
with
CO
--
can come in easily. NEVER park in a garage with the engine running.
Another closed
in place can be a blizzard.
(See “Blizzard” in the Index.)
2-29
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is running unless you have to. If you’ve left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.
You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, always set your parking brake and move the shift lever to PARK (P).
Four
wheel drive vehicles with the transfer case in NEUTRAL (N) will allow the vehicle to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
--
not in
NEUTRAL (N). Always set your parking brake.
Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle won’t move. See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index.
If you’re pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
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Windows
Manual Windows
Use the window crank to open and close each door window.
Power Windows (If Equipped)
With power windows, switches on the driver’s door operate each window when the ignition is on. Push down on the front of the switch to lower a window and lift up the front of the switch to raise a window.
There are individual controls near each window.
Express Down Window
The AUTO switch for the driver’s window has an express down feature. To use express down, push the switch all the way down. Release the switch and the window will lower completely. Pull up on the switch lightly and release it to stop the window partway.
Lock
-
Out Switch
The driver’s door has a lock
out switch for the passenger window(s). When you push the right side of the switch you lock the passenger window(s) so they can not be raised or lowered. Push the left side of the switch to unlock the window(s).
When the window lock
out switch is engaged, all passenger window switches will not operate, including the driver’s controls.
Horn
To sound the horn, press the portion of your steering wheel marked with the horn symbol.
Tilt Wheel
A tilt steering wheel allows you to adjust the steering wheel before you drive. You can also raise it to the highest level to give your legs more room when you exit and enter the vehicle.
To tilt the wheel, hold the steering wheel and move the lever down. Move the steering wheel to a comfortable level, then release the lever to lock the wheel in place.
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Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
The lever on the left side of the steering column includes your:
D Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator
D Headlamp High/Low Beam Changer
D Flash
to
-
Pass
Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator
The turn signal has an upward (for right) and a downward (for left) position. These positions allow you to signal a turn or a lane change.
To signal a turn, move the lever all the way up or down.
When the turn is finished, the lever will return automatically.
An arrow on the instrument panel cluster will flash in the direction of the turn or lane change.
To signal a lane change, just raise or lower the lever until the arrow starts to flash. Hold it there until you complete your lane change. The lever will return by itself when you release it.
As you signal a turn or a lane change, if the arrows don’t flash but just stay on, a signal bulb may be burned out and other drivers won’t see your turn signal.
If a bulb is burned out, replace it to help avoid an accident. If the arrows don’t go on at all when you signal a turn, check the fuse (see “Fuses and Circuit
Breakers” in the Index) and for burned
out bulbs.
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Headlamp High/Low Beam Changer
First, you must have the headlamps on. For high beams, push the turn signal lever toward the instrument panel.
When the high beams are on, a light on the instrument panel cluster also will be on.
It will go off when you switch to low beam.
Windshield Wipers
To switch back to low beams, pull the lever toward you.
Flash-to-Pass
With the lever in the low
beam position, pull the lever toward you to momentarily switch to high beam (to signal that you are going to pass). When you release the lever, the headlamps will return to low
beam operation.
The lever on the right side of the steering column controls the windshield wipers and washers.
You control the windshield wipers by moving the stalk up or down.
For steady wiping at low speed, move the stalk down to LO. For higher speed wiping, move the stalk down further to HI. To stop the wiper, move the stalk to OFF.
2-33
With variable delay, you can set the wiper speed for a long or short interval between wipes. This can be very useful.
Move the stalk to INT then turn the inner band and choose the delay you want. Turn the inner band up for longer intervals between wiper cycles. Turn the band down for shorter intervals.
Remember that damaged wiper blades may prevent you from seeing well enough to drive safely. To avoid damage, be sure to clear ice and snow from the wiper blades before using them. If they’re frozen to the windshield, carefully loosen or thaw them. If your blades do become damaged, get new blades or blade inserts.
Heavy snow or ice can overload your wipers. A circuit breaker will stop them until the motor cools. Clear away snow or ice to prevent an overload.
Windshield Washer
To wash your windshield, pull the stalk with the wiper symbol on it toward you one time. When you release the stalk, the washers will stop. The wiper will continue wiping for approximately three cycles and will either stop or will resume the speed you were using before.
See “Windshield Washer Fluid” in the Index.
CAUTION:
In freezing weather, don’t use your washer until the windshield is warmed. Otherwise the washer fluid can form ice on the windshield, blocking your vision.
2-34
Rear Window Wiper/Washer (If Equipped)
To turn on your rear wiper, push the upper button.
Push the same button again to turn it off.
Cruise Control (If Equipped)
To spray washer fluid on the rear window, push the lower button about halfway down. Washer fluid will spray as long as you hold this button. To wash and wipe at the same time, push the button all the way in.
The washer and wiper will run as long as you hold this button. To add washer fluid, see “Windshield Washer
Fluid” in the Index.
With cruise control, you can maintain a speed of about
25 mph (40 km/h) or more without keeping your foot on the accelerator. This can really help on long trips.
Cruise control does not work at speeds below about
25 mph (40 km/h).
When you apply your brakes, or push the clutch pedal if you have a manual transmission, the cruise control turns off.
2-35
CAUTION:
D Cruise control can be dangerous where
you can’t drive safely at a steady speed.
So, don’t use your cruise control on winding roads or in heavy traffic.
D Cruise control can be dangerous on
slippery roads. On such roads, fast changes in tire traction can cause needless wheel spinning, and you could lose control.
Don’t use cruise control on slippery roads.
Setting Cruise Control
CAUTION:
If you leave your cruise control switch on when you’re not using cruise, you might hit a button and go into cruise when you don’t want to. You could be startled and even lose control. Keep the cruise control switch off until you want to use cruise control.
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1. Press the CRUISE
CTRL. switch on the instrument panel to turn the system on. The indicator light on the switch will come on.
2. Get up to the speed you want.
3. Once you’re going 25 mph (40 km/h) or more, turn the lever to COAST SET and release. Your cruise will set.
4. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal.
Resuming a Set Speed
If you set your cruise control at a desired speed and then apply the brake, this will turn off the cruise control function. But you don’t need to reset it.
If your speed has not dropped below 25 mph (40 km/h), you can turn the lever to RESUME ACCEL for about one second. You’ll go right back to your chosen speed and stay there. When your speed drops below 25 mph
(40 km/h), the system will not resume to your previously chosen speed. You must reset your speed.
Increasing Speed While Using Cruise Control
There are two ways to go to a higher speed.
D Use the accelerator pedal to go to a higher speed.
Turn the lever to COAST SET and release. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal. You’ll now cruise at the higher speed.
D Turn the lever to RESUME ACCEL. Hold the lever at RESUME ACCEL until you get up to the speed you want, then release the lever.
Reducing Speed While Using Cruise Control
To reduce your speed, turn and hold the lever in the
COAST SET position until you reach the lower speed you want, then release the lever.
Passing Another Vehicle While Using Cruise Control
Use the accelerator pedal to increase your speed. When you take your foot off the pedal, your vehicle will slow down to the cruise control speed you set earlier.
Using Cruise Control on Hills
How well your cruise control will work on hills depends upon your speed, load and the steepness of the hills.
When going up steep hills, you may have to step on the accelerator pedal to maintain your speed. When going downhill, you may have to brake or shift to a lower gear to keep your speed down. Of course, applying the brake takes you out of cruise control. Many drivers find this to be too much trouble and don’t use cruise control on steep hills.
Getting Out of Cruise Control
There are three ways to turn off cruise control:
D Step lightly on the brake pedal, or push the clutch pedal if you have a manual transmission.
D Push in the CANCEL button on the end of the cruise control lever.
D Press the CRUISE CTRL. switch on the instrument panel.
Erasing Speed Memory
When you turn off the cruise control or the ignition, your cruise control set speed memory is erased.
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Exterior Lamps
Turn the outside part of the lever to control the lamps.
There are three positions for the lamp switch.
Parking Lamps
: This position will turn on the following:
D Parking Lamps
D Sidemarker Lamps
D Taillamps
D Instrument Panel Lights
D License Plate Lamp
Headlamps
: This position will turn on the following:
D Headlamps
D Parking Lamps
D Sidemarker Lamps
D Taillamps
D Instrument Panel Lights
D License Plate Lamp
Turn the switch to OFF to turn off the lamps.
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Daytime Running Lamps
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) can make it easier for others to see the front of your vehicle during the day.
DRL can be helpful in many different driving conditions, but they can be especially helpful in the short periods after dawn and before sunset.
The DRL system will make your headlamps come on at a reduced brightness when:
D The ignition is on with the engine running,
D the headlamp switch is off or the parking lights are on, and
D the parking brake is released.
When the DRL are on, only your headlamps will be on at a reduce brightness. The taillamps, sidemarker and other lamps won’t be on. Your instrument panel won’t be lit up either.
When you turn on the headlamp switch, your DRL will go off and your headlamps will come on. The other lamps that come on with your headlamps will also come on.
When it begins to get dark, the headlamps will automatically switch from DRL to the regular headlamps.
See “Automatic Light Control” later in this section.
When you turn the headlamp switch to off, the regular lamps will go off and your headlamps will change to the reduced brightness of DRL provided it is not dark outside. DRL will also come on if only the parking lamps are being used.
To idle your vehicle with the DRL off, set the parking brake. The DRL will stay off until you release the parking brake.
As with any vehicle, you should turn on the regular headlamp system when you need it.
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Automatic Light Control (ALC)
Your vehicle is equipped with an automatic light sensor on top of the instrument panel, so be sure it is not covered. If it is, the nighttime lights will remain on continuously.
When it is dark enough outside, your ALC will turn on your low
beam headlamps at the normal brightness along with other lamps such as the taillamps, sidemarker, park lamps and instrument panel lights.
There is a short delay in the transition between daytime and nighttime operation of the Daytime Running Lamps
(DRL) and the ALC systems. If the light sensor senses a reduction in lighting that lasts longer than 5 seconds, it will activate the nighttime lamps. If you are driving through a parking garage, heavy overcast weather or a tunnel, the ALC will turn on your low
beam headlamps at a normal brightness along with the taillamps, sidemarker, park lamps and the instrument panel lights.
The radio lights will be dimmer.
As with any vehicle, you should turn on the regular headlamp system when you need it.
Lamps On Reminder
If you turn the ignition off, remove the key, open the door and leave the lamps on, a tone will remind you to turn off your lamps.
Interior Lamps
Instrument Panel Brightness Control
The thumbwheel controls the brightness of your instrument panel lights.
Rotate the wheel upward to brighten the lights or downward to dim them.
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Dome Lamp
The dome lamp has a three
position switch.
OFF: This position is to the left when you are sitting in the driver’s seat. The lamp will stay off even when a door is opened.
Center: This is the center position. The lamp will come on when a door is opened. After a door is closed, the dome lamp will stay on for 15 seconds.
ON: This position is to the right when you are sitting in the driver’s seat. The dome lamp will turn on and stay on whether or not a door is open.
Battery Rundown Protection
Your vehicle is equipped with a battery saver feature designed to protect your vehicle’s battery.
When the dome lamp is left on and the ignition is turned off and the key is removed, the battery saver system will automatically turn the lamp off after about 15 minutes.
This will avoid draining the battery. This system does not protect against leaving on the headlamps or parking lamps.
Mirrors
Inside Day/Night Rearview Mirror
An inside rearview mirror is attached to your windshield.
The mirror is able to move so that you can adjust it up and down or side to side. The mirror is equipped with reading lamps and map lamps.
You can adjust the mirror for day or night driving.
Pull the tab for night driving to reduce glare. Push the tab for daytime driving.
Outside Manual Adjust Mirrors
Adjust these mirrors by hand so that you can just see the side of your vehicle when you are sitting in a comfortable driving position.
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Power Remote Control Mirrors
(If Equipped)
The switch to control the power mirrors is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel.
You can only adjust the mirrors when the ignition switch is in the ON or ACC position.
To adjust the mirrors:
1. Move the selector switch to the L (left) or R (right) to select the mirror you wish to adjust.
2. Press the outer part of the pad that matches the direction you want to move the mirror.
3. Return the selector switch to the center position to help prevent moving the mirror accidentally.
Convex Outside Mirror
Your passenger’s side mirror is convex. A convex mirror’s surface is curved so you can see more from the driver’s seat.
CAUTION:
A convex mirror can make things (like other vehicles) look farther away than they really are.
If you cut too sharply into the right lane, you could hit a vehicle on your right. Check your inside mirror or glance over your shoulder before changing lanes.
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Storage Compartments
Glove Box
To open the glove box, pull the latch toward you.
Use your key to lock and unlock the glove box.
The glove box has a two
position detent for opening the door. Lower the door to the first detent for access to the glove box. Pull it to the next detent for further access.
Door Storage
Each side door has a storage compartment.
Coinholder
Your instrument panel has a coinholder located to the left of the steering wheel.
Cupholder
Two cupholders are on the center console next to the parking brake lever.
Convenience Net (If Equipped)
You may have a convenience net in the rear of your vehicle to help keep small items, like gloves and light clothing, in place during sharp turns or quick stops and starts.
The net is not designed to retain these items during off
road use. The net is not for larger, heavier items.
Attach the loops to the hooks located along the sides of the rear cargo area. You may attach the convenience net loops to either the forward or the rear hooks.
Lockable Storage Compartment and
Cargo Cover (Option)
If your two
door vehicle has the optional lockable storage compartment, you can use it to cover and secure items in the cargo area of your vehicle. The closeout panel can be removed to allow for extra cargo space.
To remove the close
out panel, do the following:
1. Remove the two attaching screws from each lower corner of the cargo area.
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2. Release the tension bows on both sides of the convertible top. See “Convertible Top” later in this section for more information.
5. Carefully lift the panel out of the cargo area.
6. Put the screws back into the mounting holes for storage while the panel is out of the vehicle.
CAUTION:
An improperly stored cargo cover could be thrown about the vehicle during a collision or sudden maneuver. You or others could be injured. If you remove the cover, always store it outside of the vehicle. When you put it back, always be sure that it is securely reattached.
3. Loosen the lower rear corners of the convertible top.
4. Remove the rear window. See “Removing and
Installing Your Rear Window” later in this section.
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Luggage Carrier (Option)
CAUTION:
If you try to carry something on top of your vehicle that is longer or wider than the luggage carrier
--
like paneling, plywood, a mattress, and so forth
--
the wind can catch it as you drive along. This can cause you to lose control. What you are carrying could be violently torn off, and this could cause you or other drivers to have a collision, and of course damage your vehicle. You may be able to carry something like this inside.
But, never carry something longer or wider than the luggage carrier on top of your vehicle.
The luggage carrier has side rails and crossrails attached to the roof to secure cargo. To install the crossrails, follow these steps:
1. Turn the screw cover lock to the unlocked position and lower the cover.
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2. Turn the screw counterclockwise to loosen the mounting attachment so it can fit over the side rails.
3. Mount the crossrails onto the side rails and adjust their position so the cargo can be mounted properly.
Make sure the crossrails are not slanted.
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4. Tighten the screws securely, taking care not to overtighten them. Then raise and lock the screw covers.
Be sure the cargo is properly loaded.
Follow these guidelines:
D Carrying small, heavy loads on the roof is not recommended.
D Do not load cargo directly on the roof panel.
D If you need to carry long items, move the crossrails as far apart as possible. Tie the load to the tie downs provided. Also tie the load to the bumpers. Do not tie the load so tightly that the crossrails or side rails are damaged.
NOTICE:
Loading cargo that weighs more than 100 lbs.
(45 kg) on the luggage carrier may damage your vehicle. When you carry large things, never let them hang over the rear or the sides of your vehicle.
Put the cargo against the side rails and fasten it securely to the luggage carrier. Put the main weight as far forward as possible to keep the load from shifting.
Don’t exceed the maximum vehicle capacity when loading your vehicle. For more information on vehicle capacity and loading, see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
To prevent damage or loss of cargo as you’re driving, check now and then to make sure the luggage carrier and cargo are still securely fastened.
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Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter
To use the lighter, the ignition key must be in ON or ACC. Push the lighter in all the way and let go.
When it’s ready, it will pop back out by itself.
NOTICE:
Don’t hold a cigarette lighter in with your hand while it is heating. If you do, it won’t be able to back away from the heating element when it’s ready. That can make it overheat, damaging the lighter and the heating element.
Pull the door to open the ashtray. To remove it, press down on the silver tab and pull the ashtray out. To replace the ashtray, push it in until the silver tab latches.
The rear ashtray is on the back of the center console.
Push on the left side of the the ashtray. The ashtray will turn clockwise for usage. To remove the rear ashtray, press down on the tab and pull it out.
NOTICE:
Don’t put papers and other things that burn into your ashtray. If you do, cigarettes or other smoking materials could set them on fire, causing damage.
Sun Visors
To block out glare, you can swing down the visors.
You can also swing them to the side. The visors have extensions to give additional sun blockage.
Accessory Power Outlet
With the accessory power outlet, you can plug in auxiliary electrical equipment. The accessory power outlet is located in the center console near the parking brake. Just remove the cap from the outlet and follow the proper instructions that are included with any electrical equipment you may install.
These circuits are protected by a fuse and have maximum current levels.
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NOTICE:
When using the accessory power outlet, maximum electrical loads must not exceed 15 amps. Always turn off any electrical equipment when not in use.
Leaving electrical equipment on for extended periods will drain your battery.
Convertible Top (If Equipped)
Your convertible top features a sunroof, a removable rear window and removable side windows.
NOTICE:
D Never raise or lower the top while the vehicle
is moving, or drive with any part of the top unfastened or partially removed. The wind could get under it and cause damage.
NOTICE: (Continued)
NOTICE: (Continued)
D Do not take your vehicle through an
automatic car wash. It could damage your convertible top.
D Don’t try to lower or raise the convertible
top or tap or beat on the plastic windows if your vehicle is out in cold weather, 41
_F
(5
_C) or below. The cold can cause cracks
and other damage to the windows and to the top as it is being lowered or raised.
D Don’t lower the top if it is damp or wet.
After the top is down, the trapped water can cause stains, mildew and damage to the inside of your car. Be sure to dry off the top before you lower it.
D Don’t lower the convertible top if the rear
flap or side windows are dirty. Dirt could scratch the side windows.
D The convertible top isn’t designed to carry
weight. Never let anyone sit on the top, and don’t put anything on top of it when it is up, or it could be damaged.
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Opening and Closing Your Sunroof
1. Lower your antenna and swing your sun visors down.
2. Squeeze the front top bow latch buttons and pull the latch back.
3. Unhook the latch from the front top bow.
4. Swing the front top bow up and back while folding the canvas top as shown. Be sure that you don’t pinch the canvas top between the front top bow arms and the roof rails.
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5. Unfasten the holding strap near the dome lamp and pull it through the slot in the front top bow.
6. Fasten the holding strap to itself.
7. Push the front top bow latches down until they “click.”
8. Swing your sun visors up and raise your antenna.
Reverse the steps to close your sunroof. Be sure your front top bow is latched securely.
Removing and Installing Your
Rear Window
The rear window of your vehicle is removable. This allows you to open the back opening all the way or to replace the window if it becomes deteriorated. To remove the rear window:
1. Open the rear gate all the way.
2. Unfasten the canvas flaps at the lower corners of the rear window to uncover the zipper pull.
3. Unzip the rear window.
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Removing and Installing the Side Window
To remove the side window:
4. Hang the rear window down so it hangs outside of the vehicle.
5. Pull the rear window frame bar rearward (see illustration above). Then slide the bar to the left to remove the window.
Reverse the steps to install the rear window. Make sure that all the Velcro
R
strips and flaps are correctly fastened and overlapped. Make sure that the window is completely closed before driving.
1. Release the tension in the canvas top support arms.
Unfasten the Velcro strips on the top and rear quarter of the side window.
2. Unzip the zipper almost all the way, leaving about
3 inches (8 cm) of it still zipped and unfasten the
Velcro strips on the inside of the window.
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3. Release the plastic strip sewn along the bottom edge of the window by gently pulling down and out.
Then release the plastic along the front edge of the window by pulling it forward and out. It may help to rock the window back and forth to remove it.
To install the side window:
4. Unfasten the plastic clip, which is part of the canvas top, at the top front corner of each side window.
Then unzip the zipper the rest of the way and remove the side window.
Make sure the plastic clip at the top front corner of the canvas top is unfastened. Then start by zipping the zipper about 3 inches (8 cm), to hold the window in place. When zipping, place the rear bottom corner of the window inside the rear part of the vehicle body to help support the window while you engage the zipper end.
Install the plastic strip into the window channel before completely zipping the window. There is a locating pin in the front upper corner to assist in aligning the window.
Pull rearward on the rear edge of the window to make sure the window is secure and finish zipping the window.
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Lowering and Raising the Canvas Top
1. Remove the side windows of the canvas top as shown previously. Remember to release the tension in the canvas top support arms first.
2. Open the rear window and hang it down inside the luggage compartment (or over the top of the vehicle’s trunk).
After completing installation, make sure that the front and bottom ends are securely hooked and the rear top end of the window is under the canvas top.
Refasten the plastic clip at the top front corner of the side window. Reengage the tension to the canvas top support arms.
3. Unfasten the snaps that secure the canvas top to the roof. The snaps are located on either side of the dome lamp. Reattach the snaps which hold the sunroof canvas in place.
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4. Unhook the front end of the rear canvas top. You may want to open the sunroof to gain easier access to the rear top. Lower the bow slowly while tucking the canvas into the luggage compartment, making sure the bows are not pinching any part of the canvas top.
Make sure the safety belts are not blocked by the folded top.
5. Reengage the latches by pushing down on the support arms at the hinges.
Reverse the steps to raise your canvas top.
During installation of the top, make sure the plastic retaining strip along the front edge of the canvas top is aligned with the locating pin in the channel. There is a mark near the center of the channel.
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The Instrument Panel
--
Your Information System
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A. Side Defroster Vent
B. Air Vent
C. Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
D. Instrument Panel Cluster
E. Windshield Wiper/Washer Lever
F. Hazard Switch
G. Rear Window Defogger (If Equipped)
H. Comfort Controls
I. Vent Shut
off Thumbwheel
J. Audio System
K. Ashtray
L. Shift Lever
M. Power Mode Switch (If Equipped)
N. Cigarette Lighter
O. Ignition Switch
P. Instrument Panel Fuse Block
Q. Hood Release
R. Instrument Panel Brightness Control
S. Power Remote Control Mirror (If Equipped)
T. Cruise Control Button (If Equipped)
U. Coinholder
V. Rear Window Wiper/Washer (If Equipped)
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Instrument Panel Cluster
Your instrument cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how fast you’re going, about how much fuel you have left, and many other things you’ll need to know to drive safely and economically.
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U.S. Cluster shown; Canada similar
Speedometer and Odometer
Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h). Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven, in either miles (used in the United States) or kilometers
(used in Canada).
Your vehicle’s odometer is tamper
resistant. If you can see silver lines between the numbers, someone probably has tried to turn it back. The numbers may not be true.
You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a new odometer installed. If possible, the new one is to be set to the same reading as the old one. If it can’t be, then it’s set at zero.
Then a label is attached on the driver’s door to show the old reading and when the new one was installed.
Trip Odometer
The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has been driven since you last set the trip odometer to zero.
The button located to the right of the odometer display allows you to switch between the odometer and the two trip odometers. Press the button once to switch to TRIP A and again to switch to TRIP B. To return the display to the odometer reading, press the trip odometer button again.
To set the trip odometers to zero, press and hold the knob.
Tachometer
The tachometer shows engine speed in thousands of revolutions per minute (rpm). You can use it while driving to select correct shift points. The tachometer may not return to zero when the engine is not running.
NOTICE:
Do not operate the engine with the tachometer in the red area, or engine damage may occur.
Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators
This part describes the warning lights and gages that may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you locate them.
Warning lights and gages can signal that something is wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could also save you or others from injury.
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Warning lights come on when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you will see in the details on the next few pages, some warning lights come on briefly when you start the engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed when this happens.
Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and warning lights work together to let you know when there’s a problem with your vehicle.
When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows there may be a problem, check the section that tells you what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice.
Waiting to do repairs can be costly
--
and even dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help.
Safety Belt Reminder Light
When the key is turned to ON or START, a tone will come on for about eight seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is already buckled.
The safety belt light will also come on and stay on until the driver’s belt is buckled.
Air Bag Readiness Light
There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument panel, which shows AIR BAG. The system checks the air bag’s electrical system for malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical problem. The system check includes the air bag modules, and the crash sensing and diagnostic module. For more information on the air bag system, see “Air Bag” in the Index.
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If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start the vehicle or comes on when you are driving, your air bag system may not work properly. Have your vehicle serviced right away.
CAUTION:
This light will come on when you start your vehicle, and it will flash for a few seconds. Then the light should go out. This means the system is ready.
If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start your vehicle, it means the air bag system may not be working properly. The air bags in your vehicle may not inflate in a crash, or they could even inflate without a crash. To help avoid injury to yourself or others, have your vehicle serviced right away if the air bag readiness light stays on after you start your vehicle.
The air bag readiness light should flash for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.
Charging System Light
This light will come on briefly when you turn on the ignition, but the engine is not running, as a check to show you it is working.
Then it should go out when the engine starts.
If the light stays on or comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with the electrical charging system. It could indicate that you have a loose generator drive belt or another electrical problem. Have it checked right away. Driving while this light is on could drain your battery.
If you must drive a short distance with this light on, be certain to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner.
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Brake System Warning Light
When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will come on when you set your parking brake. The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully.
If it stays on after your parking brake is fully released, it means you have a brake problem.
Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you need both parts working well.
If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake problem. Have your brake system inspected right away.
If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor.
It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the vehicle towed for service. (See “Anti
-
Lock Brake
System Warning Light” and “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.)
CAUTION:
Your brake system may not be working properly if the brake system warning light is on. Driving with the brake system warning light on can lead to an accident. If the light is still on after you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.
United States Canada
This light should come on when you turn the ignition key to START. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem.
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Anti-Lock Brake System Warning
Light (Option)
With the anti
lock brake system, this light will come on when you start your engine and it will stay on for three seconds.
That’s normal.
CAUTION:
Your regular brake system may not be working properly if the anti
lock brake system warning light is on. Driving with the anti
lock brake system warning light on can lead to an accident.
After you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.
If the light comes on when you’re driving, you don’t have anti
lock brakes and there could be a problem with your regular brakes. Pull off the road and stop carefully.
You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. Have the vehicle towed for service. (See “Towing
Your Vehicle” in the Index.)
If the anti
lock brake system warning light stays on longer than normal after you’ve started your engine, turn the ignition off. Or, if the light comes on and stays on when you’re driving, stop as soon as possible and turn the ignition off. Then start the engine again to reset the system. If the light still stays on, or comes on again while you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. If the light is on and the regular brake system warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti
lock brakes.
The anti
lock brake system warning light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to ON. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.
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Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
This gage shows the engine coolant temperature. If the gage pointer moves to the
H (red) side, your engine is too hot.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
(Service Engine Soon Light)
Your vehicle is equipped with a computer which monitors operation of the fuel, ignition and emission control systems.
It means that your engine coolant has overheated and you should stop your vehicle and turn off the engine as soon as possible.
The “Problems on the Road” section of this manual show what to do. See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
This system is called OBD II (On
-
Board
Diagnostics
-
Second Generation) and is intended to assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner environment. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the system before any problem is apparent. This may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle.
This system is also designed to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.
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NOTICE:
If you keep driving your vehicle with this light on, after a while, your emission controls may not work as well, your fuel economy may not be as good and your engine may not run as smoothly.
This could lead to costly repairs that may not be covered by your warranty.
NOTICE:
Modifications made to the engine, transmission, exhaust or fuel system of your vehicle or the replacement of the original tires with other than those of the same Tire Performance Criteria
(TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission controls and may cause the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light to come on. Modifications to these systems could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. This may also result in a failure to pass a required Emission Inspection/Maintenance test.
This light should come on, as a check to show you it is working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. If the light doesn’t come on, have it repaired.
This light will also come on during a malfunction in one of two ways:
D Light Flashing
--
A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and may damage the emission control system on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.
D Light On Steady
--
An emission control system malfunction has been detected on your vehicle.
Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.
If the Light Is Flashing
The following may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle:
D Reducing vehicle speed.
D Avoiding hard accelerations.
D Avoiding steep uphill grades.
D If you are towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
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If the light stops flashing and remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following.
If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so,
stop the vehicle. Find a safe place to park your vehicle.
Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart the engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If the Light
Is On Steady” following. If the light is still flashing, follow the previous steps, and drive the vehicle to your dealer or qualified service center for service.
If the Light Is On Steady
You may be able to correct the emission system malfunction by considering the following:
Did you recently put fuel into your vehicle?
If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully install the cap. See “Filling Your Tank” in the Index. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing fuel cap will allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. A few driving trips with the cap properly installed should turn the light off.
Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water?
If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition will usually be corrected when the electrical system dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off.
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Are you low on fuel?
As your engine starts to run out of fuel, your engine may not run as efficiently as designed since small amounts of air are sucked into the fuel line causing a misfire.
The system can detect this. Adding fuel should correct this condition. Make sure to install the fuel cap properly.
See “Filling Your Tank” in the Index. It will take a few driving trips to turn the light off.
Have you recently changed brands of fuel?
If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel (see
“Fuel” in the Index). Poor fuel quality will cause your engine not to run as efficiently as designed. You may notice this as stalling after start
up, stalling when you put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation on acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.) This will be detected by the system and cause the light to turn on.
If you experience one or more of these conditions, change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
If none of the above steps have made the light turn off, have your dealer or qualified service center check the vehicle. Your dealer has the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical problems that may have developed.
Emissions Inspection and Maintenance Programs
Some state/provincial and local governments have or may begin programs to inspect the emission control equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this inspection could prevent you from getting a vehicle registration.
Here are some things you need to know in order to help your vehicle pass an inspection:
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the
SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is on or not working properly.
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the OBD
(on
board diagnostic) system determines that critical emission control systems have not been completely diagnosed by the system. The vehicle would be considered not ready for inspection. This can happen if you have recently replaced your battery or if your battery has run down. The diagnostic system is designed to evaluate critical emission control systems during normal driving. This may take several days of routine driving. If you have done this and your vehicle still does not pass the inspection for lack of OBD system readiness, see your dealer or qualified service center to prepare the vehicle for inspection.
Oil Pressure Light
If you have a problem with your oil, this light may stay on after you start your engine, or come on when you are driving.
This indicates that there is not enough pressure to keep your engine properly lubricated and cool. The engine could be low on oil, or have some other oil related problem. Have it fixed right away.
The oil light could also come on in three other situations.
D When the ignition is on but the engine is not running, the light will come on as a test to show you it is working, but the light will go out when you turn the engine to START. If it doesn’t come on with the ignition on, you may have a problem with the fuse or bulb. Have it fixed right away.
D Sometimes when the engine is idling at a stop, the light may blink on and off. This is normal.
D If you make a hard stop, the light may come on for a moment. This is normal.
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CAUTION:
Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low.
If you do, your engine can become so hot that it catches fire. You or others could be burned.
Check your oil as soon as possible and have your vehicle serviced.
NOTICE:
Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty.
Four Wheel Drive Light (If Equipped)
This light comes on when the ignition switch is on and the transfer case lever is in one of the four wheel drive positions.
See “Four Wheel Drive” in the Index.
Power Indicator Light (If Equipped)
This light comes on when the power mode selector switch is turned to “P”
(power) with the ignition switch in the ON position.
This light comes on as a check for approximately five seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON or START.
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Overdrive Off Light (If Equipped)
This light comes on when the automatic four
speed transmission has been converted to the three
speed mode and the overdrive is turned off.
This light also comes on as a check for approximately five seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON or START.
Fuel Gage
Your fuel gage shows about how much fuel is in your tank. When the gage first indicates “E” (empty), you still have about one or two gallons (4 to 8 L) of fuel left in your tank, but you need to get more right away.
Here are four concerns some owners have had about the fuel gage. All these situations are normal and do not indicate that anything is wrong with the fuel gage.
D At the gas station, the fuel pump shuts off before the gage reads “F” (full).
D It takes more (or less) fuel to fill up than the gage reads. For example, the gage reads half full, but it took more (or less) than half of the tank’s capacity to fill it.
D The gage moves a little when you turn, stop or speed up.
D When you turn the engine off, the gage doesn’t go back to E (empty).
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Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
In this section, you’ll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your vehicle.
Be sure to read about the particular systems supplied with your vehicle.
Air Conditioner Controls (Option)
Rear Window Defogger (If Equipped)
FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player
FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player
18 Understanding Radio Reception
18 Tips About Your Audio System
19 Care of Your Cassette Tape Player
20 Care of Your Compact Disc Player
3-
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Comfort Controls
With this system, you can control the heating and ventilation in your vehicle. If you have the air conditioning option, you can also control cooling.
Your vehicle also has the flow
through ventilation system described later in this section.
Climate Control System
Airflow Lever
VENT: This position directs the airflow through the instrument panel vents.
BI
-
LEVEL: This position directs air through the instrument panel vents and toward the floor.
FLOOR: This position directs air toward the floor.
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DEFOG: This position directs air toward the floor, the windshield and side windows. The air conditioning compressor will run automatically in this setting.
DEFROST: This position directs air to the windshield and side windows. The air conditioning compressor will run automatically in this setting.
Fan Control Lever
Slide the lever away from OFF to turn the system on.
Move the lever toward the fan symbol to increase the fan’s speed.
Temperature Control Lever
Slide the lever to change the temperature of the air flowing from the system. Move it to the right for warmer air and to the left for cooler air. Without optional air conditioning, the air temperature cannot be less than the outside air temperature.
Air Intake Lever
RECIRCULATE: Choose this position to recirculate the inside air through the comfort control system.
OUTSIDE AIR: Choose this position to circulate outside air through the comfort control system.
Air Conditioner Controls (Option)
The air conditioning system uses the same controls as described previously. The function of each lever is explained under “Climate
Control System” in this part. The incoming air is cooled and dehumidified instead of being heated.
Push the A/C button to change your comfort control system from heating to air conditioning. A light will come on when the air conditioning is on. The A/C button can also control the humidity in your vehicle.
The air conditioner works best if you keep your windows closed. On very hot days, open the windows just long enough for the hot air to escape.
For normal cooling, push the A/C button and move the air intake lever to OUTSIDE AIR. For faster cooling, move the lever to RECIRCULATE. Then move the airflow lever to VENT, the temperature control lever toward the left and the fan control lever toward the fan symbol.
On days when it is raining or the humidity is high, follow these dehumidifying steps to help clean windows that are cloudy with moisture. Move the air intake lever to OUTSIDE AIR. Move the airflow lever to DEFROST and the fan control lever toward the fan symbol. Adjust the temperature control lever to a comfortable setting.
The air conditioning compressor will run automatically and the A/C button will illuminate when the air flow lever is in DEFOG or DEFROST.
Heating
For the quickest results, move the air intake lever to
RECIRCULATE. Move the airflow lever to FLOOR, the temperature control lever toward the right for warmer air and the fan control lever toward the fan symbol. You should switch to OUTSIDE AIR once in a while to avoid stale air and cloudy windows.
Defogging and Defrosting
Slide the air intake lever to OUTSIDE AIR and the airflow lever to DEFROST to direct air to the windshield vents. Then slide the temperature control lever toward the right and the fan lever toward the fan symbol. When the windshield is clear, turn down the fan speed.
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Rear Window Defogger (If Equipped)
The rear window defogger uses a warming grid to remove fog from the rear window.
Press the switch to turn on the defogger. An indicator light on the switch will come on to remind you that the defogger is on. The rear window defogger will turn itself off after about 15 minutes. You can also turn it off by pressing the switch again.
Do not attach anything like a temporary vehicle license or a decal across the defogger grid on the rear window.
NOTICE:
Don’t use a razor blade or something else sharp on the inside of the rear window. If you do, you could cut or damage the warming grid, and the repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
Ventilation System
For mild outside temperatures, when little heating or cooling is needed, you can still direct outside air through your vehicle.
Move the air intake lever to OUTSIDE AIR and the airflow lever to BI
-
LEVEL. Adjust the temperature control lever to a comfortable setting and move the fan control lever toward the fan symbol.
Your vehicle’s flow
through ventilation system supplies outside air into the vehicle when it is moving. Outside air will also enter the vehicle when the fan is running and the air intake lever is at OUTSIDE AIR.
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Your vehicle has air outlets that allow you to adjust the direction and amount of airflow inside the vehicle.
You can direct the airflow side
to
side by turning the thumbwheel located in the center of the vent. The vent can be tilted up and down also. To control the amount of airflow though the outlets, turn the thumbwheel below the vent.
Ventilation Tips
Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or any other obstruction (such as leaves). The heater and defroster will work far better, reducing the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.
When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, move the fan control lever toward the fan symbol for a few moments before driving off. This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.
Keep the air path under the front seats clear of objects.
This helps air to circulate throughout your vehicle.
Audio Systems
Your audio system has been designed to operate easily and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your audio system can do and how to operate all its controls, to be sure you’re getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it.
Setting the Clock
Press and hold the HR or MIN arrow for two seconds.
Then press the HR arrow until the correct hour appears.
Press and hold the MIN arrow until the correct minute appears. The clock may be set with the ignition on or off.
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AM-FM Stereo (If Equipped)
Playing the Radio
PWR VOL: Press this knob to turn the system on and off. To increase volume, turn the knob clockwise. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume.
RCL: Press this knob to recall the station being played or to display the clock. Clock display is available with the vehicle off.
Finding a Station
AM FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1 and FM2. The display shows your selection.
TUNE: Turn this knob to choose radio stations.
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SEEK: Press the right arrow to tune to the next higher station and the left arrow to tune to the next lower station and stay there. The radio will seek to stations with a strong signal only.
SCAN: Press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for two seconds until you hear a beep. Use SCAN to listen to stations for a few seconds. The radio will go to a station, stop for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next station. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning. The radio will scan to stations with a strong signal only.
PRESET SCAN: Use PRESET SCAN to listen to each of your preset stations for a few seconds. Press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for more than four seconds until you hear two beeps. The radio will go to the first preset station stored on your pushbuttons, except those stations with weak reception, stop for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next preset station. PRESET SCAN will only scan the six presets that are in the band selected. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning presets. The channel number (P1
-
P6) will appear momentarily just before the frequency is displayed.
PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to
18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2). Just:
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Press AM FM to select the band.
3. Tune in the desired station.
4. Press and hold one of the six numbered buttons until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.
5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.
Setting the Tone
BASS: Press and release AUDIO repeatedly until BAS appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase bass. “B” and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease bass. B and a negative number will appear on the display.
B and a zero will appear on the display when the bass level is set to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the bass level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
TREBLE: Press and release AUDIO until TRE appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase treble. “T” and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease treble. T and a negative number will appear on the display. T and a zero will appear on the display when the treble level is set to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the treble level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.
To set BASS or TREBLE to the middle position, select the desired tone control. Then press and hold
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. B and a zero or T and a zero will appear on the display. To set all of the tone controls and speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode.
Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.
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Adjusting the Speakers
BALANCE: Press and release AUDIO until BAL appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the right speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the left speakers. “R” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the right speakers. “L” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the left speakers. L and a zero will appear on the display when the the sound is balanced between the speakers. Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
FADE: Press and release AUDIO until FAD appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the front speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the rear speakers. “F” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the front speakers. “R” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the rear speakers. F and a zero will appear on the display when the the sound is balanced between the speakers.
Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
To set BALANCE or FADE to the middle position, select the desired speaker control. Then press and hold
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. L and a zero or F and a zero will appear on the display. To set all of the tone controls and speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode.
Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.
Radio Calibration
Your audio system has been calibrated for your vehicle from the factory. If CAL appears on the display it means that your radio has not been configured properly for your vehicle and must be returned to the dealership for service.
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AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player
(If Equipped)
Playing the Radio
PWR VOL: Press this knob to turn the system on and off. To increase volume, turn the knob clockwise.
Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume.
RCL: Press this knob to recall the station being played, if the tape player is active, or to display the clock.
Finding a Station
AM FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1 and FM2. The display shows your selection.
TUNE: Turn this knob to choose radio stations.
SEEK: Press the right arrow to tune to the next higher station and the left arrow to tune to the next lower station and stay there. The radio will seek to stations with a strong signal only.
SCAN: Press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for two seconds until you hear a beep. Use SCAN to listen to stations for a few seconds. The radio will go to a station, stop for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next station. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning. The radio will scan to stations with a strong signal only.
PRESET SCAN: Use PRESET SCAN to listen to each of your preset stations for a few seconds. Press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for more than four seconds until you hear two beeps. The radio will go to the first preset station stored on your pushbuttons, except stations with weak reception, stop for a few seconds and flash the station frequency, then go on to the next preset station. PRESET SCAN will only scan the six presets that are in the band selected. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning presets. The channel number (P1
-
P6) will appear momentarily just before the frequency is displayed.
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PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to
18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2). Just:
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Press AM FM to select the band.
3. Tune in the desired station.
4. Press and hold one of the six numbered buttons until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.
5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.
Setting the Tone
BASS: Press and release AUDIO until BAS appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase bass. “B” and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease bass.
B and a negative number will appear on the display.
-B and a zero will appear on the display when the bass level is set to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the bass level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
TREBLE: Press and release AUDIO until TRE appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase treble. “T” and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease treble. T and a negative number will appear on the display. T and a zero will appear on the display when the treble level is set to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the treble level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.
To set BASS or TREBLE to the middle position, select the desired tone control. Then press and hold
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. B and a zero or T and a zero will appear on the display. To set all of the tone controls and speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode.
Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.
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Adjusting the Speakers
BALANCE: Press and release AUDIO until BAL appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the right speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the left speakers. “R” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the right speakers. “L” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the left speakers. L and a zero will appear on the display when the the sound is balanced between the speakers. Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
FADE: Press and release AUDIO until FAD appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the front speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the rear speakers. “F” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the front speakers. “R” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the rear speakers. F and a zero will appear on the display when the the sound is balanced between the speakers.
Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
To set BALANCE or FADE to the middle position, select the desired speaker control. Then press and hold
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. L and a zero or F and a zero will appear on the display. To set all of the tone controls and speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode.
Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.
Playing a Cassette Tape
Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player. The longer side with the tape visible should face to the right. If the ignition is on, but the radio is off, the tape can be inserted and will begin playing. If you hear nothing but a garbled sound, the tape may not be in squarely. Press the eject button to remove the tape and start over.
While the tape is playing, use the VOL, FAD, BAL,
TRE, BAS and SEEK controls just as you do for the radio. The radio will display UP or the
Y
symbol if the top side of the tape is playing. DN or the
B
symbol will appear if the bottom side is playing.
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If the player detects a tight or broken tape, ERR (error) will appear on the display and the player will eject the tape. The radio will go back to playing the last station selected.
If you want to insert a tape when the ignition is off, first press the eject button or the RCL knob.
PREV (1): Press this button or the left SEEK arrow to go to the previous selection on the tape if the selection has been playing for less than 3 seconds. If the PREV button or the left SEEK arrow is pressed and the current selection has been playing for more than 13 seconds, it will go to the beginning of the current selection. If the
PREV button or the left SEEK arrow is pressed and the current selection has been playing from 3 to 13 seconds, it will go to the beginning of the previous selection or the beginning of the current selection, depending on the position on the tape. PRE will appear on the display while the cassette player is in PREV mode. Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence between each selection for PREV to work. The sound will mute while seeking.
NEXT (2): Press this button or the right SEEK arrow to go to the next selection on the tape. NXT will appear on the display while the cassette player is in NEXT mode.
Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence between each selection for NEXT to work. The sound will mute while seeking.
REV (3): Press this button to reverse the tape rapidly.
REV will appear on the display. Press it again to return to playing speed. The radio will play the last selected station while the tape reverses. You may select stations during REV operation by using TUNE, SEEK, SCAN or
PRESET SCAN.
FWD (4): Press this button to advance quickly to another part of the tape. FWD will appear on the display. Press the button again to return to playing speed. The radio will play the last selected station while the tape advances.
You may select stations during FWD operation by using
TUNE, SEEK, SCAN or PRESET SCAN.
SIDE (5): Press this button to play the other side of the tape.
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RPT (6): Press this button once to hear a selection over again. RPT will appear on the display. The current selection will continue to repeat. RPT will flash on the display while the cassette player is searching for the start of the selection. Your tape must have at least three seconds of silence between each selection for RPT to work. Press this button again to turn off repeated play.
OFF will appear on the display.
AM FM: Press this button to play the radio when a tape is in the player. The tape will stop but remain in the player.
TAPE: With a cassette tape in the player and the radio playing, press this button to play a cassette tape. CAS will appear on the display. Press AM FM to return to the radio when a cassette tape is playing. The inactive tape will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.
In order to use a portable CD player adapter or a cassette tape head cleaner you must disable the TIGHT/LOOSE
TAPE sensor. Press and hold the TAPE button for two seconds with the radio off and the vehicle on. CAS will flash on the display showing the TIGHT/LOOSE TAPE sensor has been disabled. The feature will remain disabled until the tape is ejected.
EJECT: Press the upward triangle button to remove a tape. The radio will play. Eject may be activated with the radio off. Cassette tapes may be loaded with the radio and vehicle off if this button is pressed first.
CLN: If this message appears on the display, the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to the tapes and player. See “Care of
Your Cassette Tape Player” in the Index. After you clean the player, press and hold the eject button for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio display will flash
---
to show the indicator was reset.
Radio Calibration
Your audio system has been calibrated for your vehicle from the factory. If CAL appears on the display it means that your radio has not been configured properly for your vehicle and must be returned to the dealership for service.
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AM-FM Stereo with Compact Disc Player
(If Equipped)
Playing the Radio
PWR VOL: Press this knob to turn the system on and off. To increase volume, turn the knob clockwise.
Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume.
RCL: Press this knob to recall the station being played or to display the clock. Pressing RCL while playing a
CD will also display the CD track number or elapsed time of CD track.
Finding a Station
AM FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1 and FM2. The display shows your selection.
TUNE: Turn this knob to choose radio stations.
SEEK: Press the right arrow to tune to the next higher station and the left arrow to tune to the next lower station and stay there.
SCAN: Press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for two seconds until you hear a beep. Use SCAN to listen to stations for a few seconds. The radio will go to a station, stop for a few seconds, then go on to the next station. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning.
PRESET SCAN: Press and hold one of the SEEK arrows for more than four seconds until you will hear a double beep. Use PRESET SCAN to listen to each of your preset stations for a few seconds. The radio will go to the first preset station stored on your pushbuttons, stop for a few seconds, then go on to the next preset station. Press one of the SEEK arrows again to stop scanning presets. The channel number (P1
-
P6) will appear momentarily just before the frequency is displayed.
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PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to
18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2). Just:
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Press AM FM to select the band.
3. Tune in the desired station.
4. Press and hold one of the six numbered buttons until you hear a beep. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.
5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.
Setting the Tone
BAS: Press and release AUDIO until BAS appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase bass. “B” and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease bass.
B and a negative number will appear on the display.
B and a zero will appear on the display when the bass level is set to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the bass level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
TRE: Press and release AUDIO until TRE appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to increase treble. “T” and a positive number will appear on the display. Press and hold the down arrow to decrease treble. T and a negative number will appear on the display. T and a zero will appear on the display when the treble level is set to the middle position. Release the up or down arrow when you find the treble level you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.
To set BAS or TRE to the middle position, select the desired tone control. Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. B and a zero or T and a zero will appear on the display. To set all of the tone controls and speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode. Then press and hold
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.
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Adjusting the Speakers
BAL: Press and release AUDIO until BAL appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the right speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the left speakers. “R” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the right speakers. “L” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the left speakers. L and a zero will appear on the display when the the sound is balanced between the speakers.
Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
FAD: Press and release AUDIO until FAD appears on the display. Then press and hold the up arrow to move the sound to the front speakers or the down arrow to move the sound to the rear speakers. “F” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the front speakers. “R” and a number will appear on the display when the sound is balanced toward the rear speakers. F and a zero will appear on the display when the the sound is balanced between the speakers.
Release the up or down arrow when you find the speaker balance you want or when the maximum or minimum level is reached.
To set BAL or FAD to the middle position, select the desired speaker control. Then press and hold AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. L and a zero or F and a zero will appear on the display. To set all of the tone controls and speaker controls to the middle position, end out of audio mode. Then press and hold
AUDIO for more than two seconds until you hear a beep. CEN will appear on the display.
Playing a Compact Disc
Insert a disc partway into the slot, label side up. The player will pull it in. The disc should begin playing. The display will show CD. If you want to insert a compact disc with the ignition off, first press RCL or the eject button.
If you’re driving on a very rough road or if it’s very hot, the disc may not play and Err (error) may appear on the display. When the road becomes smooth or the temperature returns to normal, the disc should play.
If the disc comes out, it could be that:
D The disc is upside down.
D It is dirty, scratched or wet.
D It is very humid. (If so, wait about an hour and try again.)
If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error can’t be corrected, please contact your dealer.
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PREV (1): Press this button or the left SEEK arrow to go to the previous track if the current selection has been playing for less than eight seconds. If the PREV button or the left SEEK arrow is pressed and the current selection has been playing for more than eight seconds, it will go to the beginning of the current selection. The track number will appear on the display. If you hold the button or press it more than once, the player will continue moving back through the disc. The sound will mute while seeking.
NEXT (2): Press this button or the right SEEK arrow to go to the next track. The track number will appear on the display. If you hold the button or press it more than once, the player will continue moving forward through the disc. The sound will mute while seeking.
REV (3): Press and hold this button to reverse quickly within a track. Release it to play the passage.
The display will show elapsed time.
FWD (4): Press and hold this button to advance quickly within a track. Release it to play the passage.
The display will show elapsed time.
RDM (5): Press this button to hear the tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RND will show on the display. Press RDM again to turn off random play.
OFF will appear on the display.
RPT (6): Press this button once to hear a selection over again. RPT will appear on the display. The current track will continue to repeat. Press RPT button again to turn off repeated play. OFF will appear on the display.
RCL: Press this button to see the current track number or how long the current track has been playing.
AM FM: Press this button to play the radio when a disc is in the player. The disc will stop but remain in the player.
CD: With a compact disc in the player and the radio playing, press this button to play a compact disc. CD will appear on the display. Press AM
-
FM to return to the radio when a compact disc is playing. The inactive CD will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.
EJECT: Press the upward triangle button to remove the disc. The radio will play. Eject may be activated with either the ignition or radio off. CDs may be loaded with the radio and ignition off this button is pressed first.
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Understanding Radio Reception
AM
The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.
FM Stereo
FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.
Tips About Your Audio System
Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it.
To help avoid hearing loss or damage:
D Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting.
D Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably and clearly.
NOTICE:
Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle
--
like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two
way radio
--
be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delphi Delco Electronics radio or other systems, and even damage them.
Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly.
So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.
3-18
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player
A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player.
Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every
50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLN or
CLEAN to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if it is the tape or the tape player at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player.
The recommended cleaning method for your cassette tape player is the use of a scrubbing action, non
abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn.
The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealership (GM Part No. 12344789).
When using a scrubbing action, non
abrasive cleaning cassette, it is normal for the cassette to eject because your unit is equipped with a cut tape detection feature and a cleaning cassette may appear as a broken tape. To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps.
1. Turn the ignition to ON or ACC.
1. Turn the radio off.
2. Press and hold the TAPE button for five seconds.
CAS will flash on the display for five seconds.
3. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette.
4. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s recommended cleaning time.
When the cleaning cassette has been ejected, the cut tape detection feature is active again.
You may also choose a non
scrubbing action, wet
type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non
scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner.
The use of a non
scrubbing action, dry
type cleaning cassette is not recommended.
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After you clean the player, press and hold the cassette eject symbol or EJT button for five seconds to reset the
CLEAN or CLN indicator. The radio will display
CLEANED or
---
to show the indicator was reset.
Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.
Care of Your Compact Discs
Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge.
Be sure never to touch the signal surface when handling discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.
Care of Your Compact Disc Player
The use of CD lens cleaner discs is not advised, due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.
Antenna
Use the knob on the end of the antenna to raise the antenna. To lower it, hold the antenna mast near the roof and feed it into the holder. Do not try to lower the antenna using the knob. Keep the antenna mast clean for good performance.
Always lower the antenna before entering a car wash.
If you have the convertible top, also lower the antenna before removing or installing the top.
3-20
Section 4 Your Driving and the Road
Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.
Your Driving, the Road and Your Vehicle
31 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
36 Before Leaving on a Long Trip
43 Recreational Vehicle Towing
4-
4-1
Your Driving, the Road and
Your Vehicle
Whenever we drive, we’re taking on an important responsibility. This is true for any motor vehicle
--
passenger car, van, truck or sport utility.
Driver behavior, the driving environment, and the vehicle’s design all affect how well a vehicle performs.
But statistics show that the most important factor, by far, is how we drive. Knowing how these three factors work together can help you understand how your vehicle handles and what you can do to avoid many types of crashes, including a rollover crash.
Driver Behavior
The single most important thing is this: everyone in the vehicle, including the driver, should buckle up (see
“Safety Belts” in the Index). In fact, most serious injuries and fatalities to unbelted occupants can be reduced or prevented by the use of safety belts. In a rollover crash, an unbelted person is significantly more likely to die than a person wearing a seat belt. In addition, avoiding excessive speed, sudden or abrupt turns and drunken or aggressive driving can help make trips safer and avoid the possibility of a crash, especially a rollover crash. This section provides many useful tips to help you drive more safely.
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Driving Environment
You can also help avoid a rollover or other type of crash by being prepared for driving in inclement weather, at night, or during other times where visibility or traction may be limited (such as on curves, slippery roads or hilly terrain). Unfamiliar surroundings can also have hidden hazards. To help you learn more about driving in different conditions, this section contains information about city, freeway, and off
road driving, as well as other hints for driving in various weather conditions.
Vehicle Design
According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, utility vehicles have a significantly higher rollover rate than other types of vehicles. Utility vehicles do have a higher ground clearance and a narrower track or shorter wheelbase than passenger cars to make them more capable for off
road driving. Specific design characteristics like these give the driver a better view of the road, but also give utility vehicles a higher center of gravity than other types of vehicles. This means that you shouldn’t expect a utility vehicle to handle the same way a vehicle with a lower center of gravity, like a car, would in similar situations. But driver behavior factors are far more often the cause of a utility vehicle rollover than are environmental or vehicle factors. Safe driver behavior and understanding the environment in which you’ll be driving can help avoid a rollover crash in any type of vehicle, including utility vehicles.
Defensive Driving
The best advice anyone can give about driving is:
Drive defensively.
Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.)
Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.”
On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means
“always expect the unexpected.”
Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes.
Rear
end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly.
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Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task
--
such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor
--
makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury.
Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself.
These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.
Drunken Driving
Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year.
Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:
D Judgment
D Muscular Coordination
D Vision
D Attentiveness.
Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle
related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, over 17,000 annual motor vehicle
related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.
Many adults
--
by some estimates, nearly half the adult population
--
choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol.
There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.
The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem.
The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:
D The amount of alcohol consumed
D The drinker’s body weight
D The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking
D The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.
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According to the American Medical Association, a
180
lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12
ounce
(355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a
BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4
ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1
-
1/2 ounces
(45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.
It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s
BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level.
There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks.
The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent.
The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.
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But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of
0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching
0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent.
Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of
0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of
0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!
The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street?
A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.
There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking
--
driver or passenger
--
is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous.
Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious
--
or even fatal
--
collision if you drive after drinking.
Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.
4-6
Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.
Braking
Braking action involves perception time and
reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.
That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time.
Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second.
But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m).
That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.
Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.
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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts
--
heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking
--
rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes (Option)
Your vehicle may have anti
lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.
If your vehicle has anti
lock brakes, this warning light on the instrument panel will come on briefly when you start your vehicle.
When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive away, your anti
lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on, and you may even notice that your brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal.
If there’s a problem with the anti
lock brake system, the anti
lock brake system warning light will stay on. See
“Anti
-
Lock Brake System Warning Light” in the Index.
4-8
The anti
lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.
Here’s how anti
lock works. Let’s say the road is wet.
You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you.
You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.
You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
4-9
Remember: Anti
lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti
lock brakes.
Using Anti
-
Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti
lock work for you. You may feel a slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard braking.
If you have anti
lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. However, if you don’t have anti
lock, your first reaction
--
to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it down
--
may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels can stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle can’t respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling.
That could be off the road, into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic.
4-10
If you don’t have anti
lock, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you maximum braking while maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure.
In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal. This will help you retain steering control. (If you do have anti
lock, it’s different: see “Anti
-
Lock Brakes” in the Index.)
In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed.
While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control systems
--
steering and braking
--
have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have four
wheel anti
lock brakes, adding the hard braking can demand too much of those places. You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you’re steering through a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two control systems
--
steering and acceleration
--
can overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road and make you lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.
4-11
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking
--
if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room.
That’s the time for evasive action
--
steering around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes have anti
--
but, unless you
lock, not enough to lock your wheels.
(See “Braking in Emergencies” earlier in this section.)
It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.
4-12
Off
-
Road Recovery
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement.
You can turn the steering wheel up to one
quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge.
Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two
lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two
lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents
--
the head
on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.
D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.
If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass
(providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.
4-13
D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.
Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.
D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a
“running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.
D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle.
Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.
D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that your right outside mirror is convex. The vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)
D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two
lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.
D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.
D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
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Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues
--
such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface”
--
and slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti
lock braking system, remember:
It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have anti
lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
4-15
Off
-
Road Driving with Your
Four
-
Wheel
-
Drive Vehicle
This off
road guide is for vehicles that have four
wheel drive.
Also, see “Anti
-
Lock Brakes” in the Index.
If your vehicle doesn’t have four
wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off
road unless you’re on a level, solid surface.
Off
road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself.
“Off
roading” means you’ve left the great North
American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs.
Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill.
In short, you’ve gone right back to nature.
Off
road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off
road driving safer and more enjoyable.
Before You Go Off-Roading
There are some things to do before you go out.
For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four
wheel
drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off
roading where you’ll be driving?
If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.
Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving
There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.
D The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.
D Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off
road terrain doesn’t toss things around.
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CAUTION:
D Cargo on the load floor piled higher than
the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.
D Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be
tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.
D Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s
center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof.
Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.
You’ll find other important information in this manual.
See “Vehicle Loading,” “Luggage Carrier” and “Tires” in the Index.
Environmental Concerns
Off
road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. Chevrolet recognizes these concerns and urges every off
roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment:
D Always use established trails, roads and areas that have been specially set aside for public off
road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.
D Avoid any driving practice that could damage the environment
--
shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses
--
or disturb wildlife (this includes wheel
spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground).
D Always carry a litter bag . . . make sure all refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving.
D Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves and lanterns.
D Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.
4-17
Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route.
You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads.
It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly.
Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly.
Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving
It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness.
Off
road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean.
Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.
4-18
Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off
road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:
D you approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles.
D you have less time to react.
D you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles.
D you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surface.
CAUTION:
When you’re driving off
road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.
Scanning the Terrain
Off
road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.
Surface Conditions. Off
roading can take you over hard
packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking distances.
Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:
D Is the path ahead clear?
D Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
D Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?
(There’s more discussion of these subjects later.)
D Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?
When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns or sudden braking.
In a way, off
road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways.
There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t.
Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off
road driving.
At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious
--
or even fatal
--
accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking.
See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.
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Driving on Off-Road Hills
Off
road driving often takes you up, down or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do.
There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.
CAUTION:
Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle.
If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.
Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.
D Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places?
D Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping?
D Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make turning maneuvers?
D Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?
D What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop
off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out.
D Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
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Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps.
D Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel.
D Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding.
D Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.
If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.
CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.
D Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill.
D Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.
D Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you’re there.
D Use your headlamps even during the day. They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.
CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop
off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle.
You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.
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Q:
What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill?
A:
If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here’s what you should do:
D Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.
D If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
D If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) (or, shift to NEUTRAL (N) if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).
D As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.
Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.
D Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or depressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev
up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work.
Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.
D Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.
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Q:
Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should
I do?
A:
Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P) (or the manual transmission in
FIRST (1)) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) when you leave the vehicle.
Leave it in some gear.
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is because the NEUTRAL (N) position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not shift the transfer case to the NEUTRAL (N) position. Leave the transfer case in the 2H, 4H or 4L position.
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Driving Downhill
When off
roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things:
D How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control?
D What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery?
Hard
packed dirt? Gravel?
D Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?
Logs? Boulders?
D What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?
If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.
CAUTION:
Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident.
Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.
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Q:
Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill?
A:
Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.
D When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across.
You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.
D Never go downhill with the transmission in
NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift. This is called “free
wheeling.”
Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.
D Unless you have anti
lock: Avoid braking so hard that you lock the wheels when going downhill. If your wheels are locked, you can’t steer your vehicle.
If your wheels lock up during downhill braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle pointing straight downhill.
Q:
Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
A:
It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do.
D Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.
Apply the parking brake.
D Shift to PARK (P) (or to NEUTRAL (N) with the manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine.
D Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down.
D If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.
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Driving Across an Incline
Sooner or later, an off
road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:
D A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels.
This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.
D Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill.
If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.
D Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.
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For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.
CAUTION:
Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.
Q:
What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?
A:
If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and
“walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.
Stalling on an Incline
If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances.
It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud
--
the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction.
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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off
road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it
--
you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts.
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CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.
See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off
road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired
--
by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
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Here are some tips on night driving.
D Drive defensively.
D Don’t drink and drive.
D Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you.
D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.
D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
D In remote areas, watch for animals.
D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50
year
old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20
year
old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night.
They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean
--
inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness
--
the inability to see in dim light
--
and aren’t even aware of it.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire
to
road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads.
And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking.
It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
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CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.
Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too.
The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles.
But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
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Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Driving Through Flowing Water
CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and the other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.
D Have good tires with proper tread depth.
(See “Tires” in the Index.)
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City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.
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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
D Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross
country trip.
D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy.
(See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)
D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.
Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too
fast or too
slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.
At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your
“blind” spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up.
Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
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The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh
--
such as after a day’s work
--
don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in
Chevrolet dealerships all across North America.
They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?
Are all windows clean inside and outside?
D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble
free trip. Is the tread good enough for long
distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?
D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?
D Maps: Do you have up
to
date maps?
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Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”?
Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis?
First, be aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior.
D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.
D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off
-
Road Driving” in the Index for information about driving off
road.)
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D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.
D Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
D Stay in your own lane when driving on two
lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no
passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.
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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32
_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition
--
smooth ice, packed, blowing or loose snow
--
drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless you have the anti
lock braking system, you’ll want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti
lock, see “Anti
-
Lock” in the Index. This system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.) Whether you have the anti
lock braking system or not, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without anti
lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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Remember, unless you have anti
lock, if you brake so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you’ll just slide. Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer.
D Whatever your braking system, allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear.
If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:
D Turn on your hazard flashers.
4-41
D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow.
D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats
--
anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well
charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
There may be times when you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for use at your destination.
Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for recreational towing. Follow the instructions for the towing equipment.
Towing Your Vehicle from the Rear
The best way to tow your vehicle is from the rear.
Follow these steps:
1. Put the rear wheels on a dolly.
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NOTICE:
Do not tow your vehicle with the rear wheels in contact with the ground, or the transmission could be damaged.
2. If your vehicle is a four
wheel
drive vehicle, turn the ignition key to ON, move the transfer case lever into
NEUTRAL (N) and make sure the 4WD light on the instrument cluster is turned off. See “Four
-
Wheel
Drive” in the Index.
3. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the steering wheel.
4. Make sure the front wheels are facing straight forward and secure the steering wheel with a steering wheel clamping device designed for towing.
Towing Your Vehicle from the Front
(Four-Wheel-Drive Only)
NOTICE:
Make sure that the towing speed does not exceed 55 mph (90 km/h), or your vehicle could be badly damaged.
NOTICE:
If your vehicle is a two
wheel drive model, do not tow it on all four wheels. If you do, your transmission could be damaged.
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Follow these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift your automatic transmission into PARK (P), or your manual transmission to SECOND (2).
3. With the ignition key in the ON position, move the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) and make sure the 4WD light on the instrument cluster is off.
See “Four
-
Wheel Drive” in the Index.
4. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock the steering wheel.
5. Release the parking brake.
Stop towing every 200 miles (300 km) and start the engine. Leave the transfer case shift lever in
NEUTRAL (N). Shift your automatic transmission to DRIVE (D); leave a manual transmission in
SECOND (2) with the clutch engaged. Run the engine at medium speed for one minute to circulate oil in the transfer case. Turn the ignition key to ACC.
Now, you can continue towing your vehicle.
NOTICE:
The front wheels transmit shocks during towing.
The steering column may not be strong enough to withstand the shocks. Always unlock the steering wheel before towing.
NOTICE:
Make sure that the towing speed does not exceed
50 mph (80 km/h), or your vehicle could be badly damaged.
4-45
Loading Your Vehicle
Two labels on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly carry. The Tire
-
Loading Information label found on the driver’s door lock pillar tells you the proper size, speed rating and recommended inflation pressures for the tires on your vehicle. It also gives you important information about the number of people that can be in your vehicle and the total weight that you can carry. This weight is called the Vehicle Capacity Weight and includes the weight of all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory
installed options.
The other label is the Certification label, also found on the driver’s door lock pillar. It tells you the gross weight capacity of your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed the
GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out. Don’t carry more than 400 lbs. (181 kg) in your rear area when four people are in your two
wheel
drive vehicle. If you have a four
wheel
drive vehicle, don’t carry more than 200 lbs. (91 kg) in your rear area when four people are in your vehicle.
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CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.
If you put things inside your vehicle
--
like suitcases, tools, packages or anything else
--
they will go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.
CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.
Try to spread the weight evenly.
D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in
your vehicle.
D When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you
need to.
There’s also important loading information for off
road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for
Off
-
Road Driving” in the Index.
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Towing a Trailer
CAUTION:
If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well
--
or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured.
Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself.
Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this section. In it are many time
tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.
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Load
pulling components such as the engine, transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to work harder against the drag of the added weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat. What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
D Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
D If you have an automatic transmission, you can use THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat buildup and extend the life of your transmission.
If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear.
Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
D the weight of the trailer,
D the weight of the trailer tongue
D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) for two
door models and 1,500 lbs. (680 kg) for four
door models. But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.
4-49
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at:
Chevrolet Motor Division
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 7047
Troy, MI 48007
-
7047
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading
Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
If you’re using a weight
carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight
distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
4-50
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Tire
-
Loading Information Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door lock pillar or see “Tire
Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:
D If you use a step
bumper hitch, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.
D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the
Index). Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes
--
and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
D Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system will use more than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. If it does, both systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
4-51
D Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehicle.
D If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
4-52
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged.
Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra wiring (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you are towing a trailer and you have a manual transmission with FIFTH (5) gear, you may prefer not to use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4) (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
4-53
Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P), or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. If you have a four
wheel
drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
--
not in NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set.
If the transfer case on four
wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
--
not in NEUTRAL (N).
4-54
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
D Start your engine;
D Shift into a gear; and
D Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
4-55
Section 5 Problems on the Road
Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.
28 If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
5-
5-1
Hazard Warning Flashers
Press the button on the instrument panel to make the front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.
To turn off the flashers, push the button again.
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work.
Other Warning Devices
If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.
5-2
Jump Starting
If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps to do it safely.
CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
D They contain acid that can burn you.
D They contain gas that can explode or ignite.
D They contain enough electricity to burn you.
If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
NOTICE:
Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
The ACDelco
R
battery in your vehicle has a built
in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12
volt battery with a negative ground system.
NOTICE:
If the other system isn’t a 12
volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
5-3
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the procedure. Put an automatic transmission vehicle in PARK (P) and a manual transmission vehicle in NEUTRAL (N).
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!
4. Open the hoods on both vehicles and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (
-
) terminals on each battery.
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
5-4
CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light.
Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco
R
battery installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present.
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.
Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.
The vehicles could be damaged, too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) goes to positive (+) and negative (
-
) goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part on the engine. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (
-
) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts, too.
CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5-5
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
5-6
7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black negative (
-
) cable to the good battery’s negative (
-
) terminal.
Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step.
9. The other end of the negative (
-
) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part on the engine of the vehicle with the dead battery.
12. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal.
Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move.
The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.
If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part
B. Good Battery
C. Dead Battery
5-7
Towing Your Vehicle
CAUTION:
To help avoid serious personal injury to you or others:
D Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is
being towed.
D Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.
D Never tow with damaged parts not
fully secured.
D Never get under your vehicle after it has
been lifted by the tow truck.
D Always secure the vehicle on each side with
separate safety chains when towing it.
D Use only the correct hooks.
NOTICE:
Use the proper towing equipment to avoid damage to the bumper, fascia or fog lamp areas of the vehicle.
With current trends in automotive styles and design, it is essential that the correct towing equipment is used to tow a vehicle. Your vehicle can be towed with wheel
lift or car carrier equipment.
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside
Assistance” in the Index.
5-8
Engine Overheating
You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See “Engine Coolant
Temperature Gage” in the Index.
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
NOTICE:
If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
5-9
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
D Climb a long hill on a hot day.
D Stop after high
speed driving.
D Idle for long periods in traffic.
D Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving
--
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
B) or
DRIVE (D) for automatic transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off
the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
5-10
Cooling System
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:
CAUTION:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
Don’t reach through the grille to release the underhood lever.
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.
A. Coolant Recovery Tank
B. Engine Cooling Fan
C. Radiator Pressure Cap
D. Auxiliary Cooling Fan (If Equipped)
5-11
CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned.
Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned.
Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above FULL. If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
NOTICE:
Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.
See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.
5-12
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Recovery Tank
If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.)
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant.
NOTICE:
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
5-13
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the FULL mark, start your vehicle.
If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.
CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap
--
even a little
--
they can come out
CAUTION: (Continued)
5-14
CAUTION: (Continued) at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.)
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
5-15
3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. (See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.)
4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the
FULL mark.
5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.
6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
5-16
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop
--
well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.
5-17
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).
3. If you have a four
wheel
drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear
--
not in NEUTRAL (N).
4. Turn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move, you can put blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.
5-18
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored in the luggage compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
To open the jacking tool storage compartment, turn the knob counterclockwise.
Turn the jack screw to remove the jack from the clamps. If the screw is too tight, use the jack handle to loosen it.
5-19
The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), jack handle (B) and wheel wrench (C).
5-20
1. The spare tire is mounted on your tailgate. To remove the cover from the spare tire, insert your key into the wheel lock and pull the wheel lock off.
2. Using the wheel wrench, remove the wheel nut from the tire. Gently pry the spare tire cover off the wheel.
3. Remove the remaining wheel nuts from the spare tire with the wheel wrench.
4. Remove the spare tire from the mounting bracket and place it near your flat tire.
5-21
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire
Front Wheel Location
1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.
Don’t remove them yet.
5-22
Rear Wheel Location
2. Position the jack and raise the jack lift head until it fits firmly onto the notches nearest to the flat tire.
(Under the vehicle near each wheel, there are notches in the vehicle’s frame.)
CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
CAUTION:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.
3. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit.
5-23
5-24
4. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.
5. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.
6. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
7. Reinstall the wheel nuts with the rounded end of the nuts toward the wheel. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub.
8. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
5-25
5-26
9. Tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.
CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident.
Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.
Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 69 lb
ft (95 N·m).
NOTICE:
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.
Store your vehicle’s flat or spare tire by mounting it on the tailgate.
Put the jack, jack handle and wheel wrench back into the storage area.
A. Wrench
B. Jack Handle
C. Jack
CAUTION:
Make sure the tire and carrier are secure.
Driving with the tire or carrier unlatched could injure pedestrians or damage the vehicle.
5-27
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
5-28
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four
wheel drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
Using the Recovery Hooks
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The recovery hooks are provided at the front and rear of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off
road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.
5-29
5-30
CAUTION:
The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.
NOTICE:
Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle.
Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
19 Passenger Compartment Air Filter
20 Automatic Transmission Fluid
51 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
53 Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield,
53 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
55 Special Care for Canvas Top and Plastic
56 Cleaning Aluminum Wheels (If Equipped)
58 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
59 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
64 Capacities and Specifications
65 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
6-1
Service
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and
GM
trained and supported service people.
We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Doing Your Own Service Work
If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your
Air Bag
-
Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and
list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.
6-2
CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and
other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle
Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which have been developed by the
American Automobile Manufacturers Association
(AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle
Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.
Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.
6-3
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet
California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog
check test. (See “Malfunction
Indicator Lamp” in the Index.) If this occurs, return to your authorized Chevrolet dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane
enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing
MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected.
The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Chevrolet dealer for service.
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
NOTICE:
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.
6-4
Fuels in Foreign Countries
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.
You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Filling Your Tank
CAUTION:
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries.
Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.
6-5
The cap is behind a hinged door on the passenger’s side of your vehicle. On some models, you may need to use the vehicle’s key to unlock the fuel door.
To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).
6-6
CAUTION:
If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the
Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.
When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
NOTICE:
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
6-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
D Dispense gasoline only into
approved containers.
D Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.
D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan. Don’t reach through the grille to release the underhood lever.
6-8
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
To open the hood, first pull the release handle located on the driver’s side of the vehicle on the lower portion of the instrument panel.
6-9
Then go to the front of the vehicle, pull up on the hood, and push the hood release lever to your right.
6-10
Lift the hood, release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.
1.6L Engine
When you open the hood, you’ll see the following:
A. Main Fuse Box
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
C. Battery
D. Engine Oil Dipstick
E. Radiator Pressure Cap
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap
G. Clutch Master Cylinder
Reservoir
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
I. Brake Fluid Reservoir
J. Engine Coolant Reservoir
K. Windshield Washer Reservoir
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2.0L Engine
When you open the hood, you’ll see the following:
A. Main Fuse Box
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
C. Battery
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
6-12
E. Automatic Transmission
Dipstick
F. Radiator Pressure Cap
G. Engine Oil Dipstick
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap
I. Brake Fluid Reservoir
J. Engine Coolant Reservoir
K. Windshield Washer Reservoir
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on.
Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop.
Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood down and close it firmly.
Engine Oil
If the engine oil pressure light appears on the instrument panel, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away.
Checking Engine Oil
It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
For more information, see “Engine Oil Pressure Light” in the Index.
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.
1.6L Engine 2.0L Engine
The engine oil dipstick is a yellow ring handle. On the
1.6L engine, it is located near the front of the engine compartment towards the passenger’s side of the vehicle. On the 2.0L engine it is located near the center of the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
6-13
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
1.6L Engine
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is at or below the L (low) mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use.
For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and
Specifications” in the Index.
NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
The engine oil fill cap is located in the front of the engine compartment.
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.
2.0L Engine
6-14
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol.
This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.
If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is
American Petroleum
Institute certified for gasoline engines.
You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
6-15
As shown in the chart, SAE 5W
-
30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W to be 0
_F (
-
30 if it’s going
-
18
_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W
-
50.
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench
R
oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls below
-
20
_F (
-
29
_C), consider using either an SAE 5W
-
30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W
-
30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule:
D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop
and
go traffic).
D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off
road frequently.
D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.
D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months
--
whichever occurs first.
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If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 7.5 months
--
whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil.
(See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.)
Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free
flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
The engine air cleaner/filter is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment toward the front of the vehicle.
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CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
Air Filter Replacement
To check or replace the filter:
1. Release the four clips on the cover.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it.
Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.
2. Lift the cover up.
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3. Pull out the filter and replace it.
4. Reinstall the cover and fasten the clips.
Passenger Compartment Air Filter
Replacement (If Equipped)
Passenger compartment air, both outside and recirculated air, is routed through a passenger compartment air filter. The filter removes certain contaminants from the air, including pollen and dust particles. Reductions in airflow, which may occur more quickly in dusty areas, indicate that the filter needs to be replaced early. For how often to change the air filter, see
“Maintenance Schedule” in the Index.
The access panel for the air filter is in the glove box.
To replace the filter, follow these steps:
1. Lower the glove box door to the second detent position. Push in the sides of the glove box to completely lower the door to allow access to the filters.
2. Remove the filter cover by lifting the top tab on the cover.
3. Remove the top air filter, then lift out the lower filter.
4. Reverse the steps to install the new filters.
Once you remove your filter, if you choose not to replace it, it will not damage your vehicle. However, the air will no longer be filtered.
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Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles
(25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90
_F (32_C) or higher.
D In hilly or mountainous terrain.
D When doing frequent trailer towing.
D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
6-20
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C).
D At high speed for quite a while.
D In heavy traffic
--
especially in hot weather.
D While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180
_F to
200
_F (82_C to 93_C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50
_F
(10
_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then follow the hot check procedures.
Checking Transmission Fluid Cold
A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50
_F (10_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50
_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during a cold check, you must perform a hot check before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.
D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).
D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. The automatic transmission dipstick is a red ring handle located in the rear of the engine compartment toward the center of the vehicle. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross
hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross
hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way.
6-22
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.
Manual Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to change your transmission fluid.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your Chevrolet dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON
R
-
III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than
DEXRON
R
-
III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.”
D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
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Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.
Then, follow these steps:
How to Add Fluid
Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.
Hydraulic Clutch
It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.
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When to Check and What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See
“Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
How to Check and Add Fluid
You do not need to check the fluid level unless you suspect a clutch problem. To check the fluid level, look at the markings on the reservoir. If the fluid reaches the
MAX line, the fluid level is correct.
Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” and “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Index.
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How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
Four
-
Wheel Drive
Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to four
wheel
drive vehicles. However, they have two additional systems that need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
“Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
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How to Check Lubricant
Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” and “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant.
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When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
Engine Coolant
The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant will:
D Give freezing protection down to
-
33
_F (
-
36
_C).
D Give boiling protection up to 258_F (125_C).
D Protect against rust and corrosion.
D Help keep the proper engine temperature.
D Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
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What to Use
Use a mixture of one
half clean, drinkable water and one
half coolant that meets GM Specification 1825
-
M, which won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use a recycled coolant conforming to GM Specification 1825
-
M with a complete coolant flush and refill. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper coolant.
NOTICE:
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.
NOTICE:
If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.
Checking Coolant
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL, or a little higher.
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Adding Coolant
If you need more coolant, add the proper coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator.
Never turn the radiator pressure cap
--
even a little
--
when the engine and radiator are hot.
Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see
“Cooling System” in the Index.
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Radiator Pressure Cap
NOTICE:
Your radiator cap is a 15.6 psi (110 kPa) pressure
type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.
When you replace your radiator pressure cap, an
ACDelco
R
cap is recommended.
Power Steering Fluid
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
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How To Check Power Steering Fluid
You can check your fluid without taking the cap off.
The level should fall between the MIN and MAX marks on the reservoir.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
NOTICE:
When adding power steering fluid or making a complete fluid change, always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.
Adding Washer Fluid
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
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NOTICE:
D When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
D Don’t mix water with ready
to
use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
D Fill your washer fluid tank only
three
quarters full when it’s very cold.
This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is here. It is filled with DOT
-
3 brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.
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So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
Checking Brake Fluid
You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.
CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections” in the Index.
Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the
MAX mark.
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What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT
-
3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
NOTICE:
D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage
brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral
based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.
D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s
painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.
Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.
Disc brake pads have built
in wear indicators that make a high
pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
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CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn
out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications.
Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections.”
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.
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Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top
quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system
--
for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in
--
be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change
--
for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Battery
Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free
ACDelco
R
battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery.
Vehicle Storage
If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (
-
) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.
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Bulb Replacement
See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index to check the size and type of bulb you need to use.
Halogen Bulbs
Headlamps
CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
A. Headlamp
B. Turn Signal
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To replace the headlamp bulb:
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the rubber cover and socket from the headlamp.
3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by pressing down and moving the metal retainer away from you.
4. Pull the bulb out of the fixture.
5. Reverse the steps with a new bulb.
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Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamps
To replace the parking and turn signal bulb:
Sidemarker Lamps
To replace the sidemarker bulb:
1. Remove the two screws holding the sidemarker lamp assembly using a
Phillips screwdriver. The assembly should pull away from the vehicle.
1. Open the hood and locate the turn signal bulb.
2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing.
3. Push the bulb in, turn it counterclockwise and pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
4. Reverse the steps with a new bulb.
2. Turn the socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the housing.
3. Pull the bulb out of the socket.
4. Reverse the steps with a new bulb.
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Rear Combination Lamps
To remove the rear combination bulbs:
A. Turn Signal Lamp
B. Back
-
Up Lamp
C. Brake Lamp
Driver’s Side Passenger’s Side
1. Remove the two screws from the combination lamps.
Gently pull the housing away from the vehicle.
2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the lamp housing.
3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
4. Reverse the previous step with a new bulb.
5. Reinstall the housing and the screws.
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Dome Lamp
1. Gently pry the dome lamp lens from the lamp assembly using a flat
head screwdriver.
2. Remove the bulb by gently opening the retaining clip and sliding the bulb out.
3. Insert a new bulb. Make sure that it is seated properly.
4. Snap the dome lamp lens back into the dome lamp assembly.
Tires
Your new vehicle comes with high
quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Chevrolet Warranty booklet for details.
CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
D Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction.
You could have an air
out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as
overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.
D Overinflated tires are more likely to be
cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact
--
such as when you hit a pothole.
Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
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Inflation -- Tire Pressure
The Tire
-
Loading Information label, which is on the driver’s door lock pillar, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:
D Too much flexing
D Too much heat
D Tire overloading
D Bad wear
D Bad handling
D Bad fuel economy.
NOTICE: (Continued)
NOTICE: (Continued)
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:
D Unusual wear
D Bad handling
D Rough ride
D Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket
type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles
(10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels.
See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and “Wheel
Replacement” later in this section for more information.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.
When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire
-
Loading
Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
6-44
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
(See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)
When It’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:
D You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.
D You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.
D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
D The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
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Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire
-
Loading Information label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all
season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS”
(for mud and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those not having a
TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type
(bias, bias
belted or radial) as your original tires.
CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types
(radial and bias
belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash.
Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.
CAUTION:
If you use bias
ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial
ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance.
(This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter
type snow tires, space
saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited
production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.
Traction
--
AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight
ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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Temperature
--
A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109.
Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load
carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
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CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
Used Replacement Wheels
CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.
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Tire Chains
NOTICE:
Use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the drive axle (four
wheel
drive vehicles can use chains on both axles).
Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.
Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space.
6-50
When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
D Gasoline
D Benzene
D Naphtha
D Carbon Tetrachloride
D Acetone
D Paint Thinner
D Turpentine
D Lacquer Thinner
D Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous
--
some more than others
--
and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
D Alcohol
D Laundry Soap
D Bleach
D Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth.
Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet
Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi
-
Purpose Interior
Cleaner and Capture Non
-
Solvent Dry Spot and Soil
Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get
GM
approved cleaning products from your dealer.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Here are some cleaning tips:
D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
D Clean up stains as soon as you can
--
before they set.
D Carefully scrape off any excess stain.
D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.
Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric
1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt.
2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.
Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on the container label to form thick suds.
4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge.
Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.
5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds.
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth.
7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.
Special Fabric Cleaning Problems
Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water.
2. If a stain remains, follow the multi
purpose interior cleaner instructions described earlier.
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3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution:
1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.
4. Let dry.
Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.
2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry completely.
3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for
Multi
-
Purpose Interior Cleaner.
Cleaning Vinyl
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.
You may have to do it more than once.
D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.
Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.
Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection.
Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
6-52
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later.
If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged.
Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.
Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield,
Backglass and Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield.
Clean the outside of the windshield with GM
Windshield Cleaner, Bon Ami
R
Powder (non
scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full
strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required.
(See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability.
6-53
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get
GM
approved cleaning products from your dealer.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all
cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses.
Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”
Finish Care
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM
approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish.
The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non
abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.
NOTICE:
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non
abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
6-54
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
Special Care for Canvas Top and
Plastic Windows
Your canvas top should be cleaned often. If you use an automatic car wash, use one with water jets and hanging cloths. High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.
When you hand wash the top, do it in partial shade.
Use a mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft sponge. A chamois or cloth may leave lint on the top, and a brush can chafe the threads in the top fabric. Don’t use detergents, harsh cleaners, solvents or bleaching agents.
Wet the entire vehicle and wash the top evenly to avoid spots or rings. Let the soap remain on the fabric for a few minutes. When the top is really dirty, use a mild foam
type cleaner. Thoroughly rinse the entire vehicle, then let the top dry in direct sunlight.
To protect the canvas top:
D After you wash the vehicle, make sure the top is completely dry before you open or remove it.
D Don’t get any vinyl cleaner on the vehicle’s painted finish; it could leave streaks.
D If you decide to go through an automatic car wash, ask the manager if the equipment could damage your top.
The plastic windows are pliable and can be scratched if you don’t take these precautions when you clean them:
D Wipe off dust with a soft cotton cloth moistened with clean, cool or lukewarm water. Don’t use a “dry” cloth. Wipe in one direction only, not back and forth.
D To remove frost, snow or ice, use lukewarm water.
Don’t use a scraper or any de
icing fluids.
D Wash the windows with a soft cloth and clean, cool or lukewarm water. Never use a dry cloth, hot water, strong soap or detergent, solvents or harsh cleaning agents. Rinse thoroughly and wipe with a slightly moist soft, clean cloth.
D Don’t put any labels, stickers or tape on windows.
It’s hard to remove adhesives left on the window when such items are removed. If a sticker or label must be removed, remove any adhesive left on the window while the adhesive is still soft and sticky.
Press on a new sticker or piece of tape and then lift it off again; keep doing this until all the adhesive lifts off with the sticker or tape.
6-55
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels
(If Equipped)
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied.
The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.
Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic vehicle wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes.
These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
Cleaning Tires
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.
NOTICE:
When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle.
Petroleum
based products may damage the paint finish and tires.
Sheet Metal Damage
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti
corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
6-56
Finish Damage
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch
up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
Underbody Maintenance
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet
shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this,
Chevrolet will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within 12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.
6-57
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
PART NUMBER
994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427
1052918**
1052925
1052929
1052930
12345721
12345725
12377964*
12377966*
12377984*
SIZE
23 in. x 25 in.
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
8 oz. (0.237 L)
2.5 sq. ft.
12 oz. (0.354 L)
DESCRIPTION
Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated
USAGE
Exterior polishing cloth
Tar and Road Oil Remover Removes tar, road oil and asphalt
Chrome Cleaner and Polish Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass
16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner
32 oz. (0.946 L) Vinyl Cleaner
23 oz. (0.680 L) Glass Cleaner
8 oz. (0.237 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Armor All t Protectant
Multi-Purpose Interior
Cleaner
Wheel Cleaner
Capture Dry Spot Remover
Synthetic Chamois
Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls
Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops
Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints
Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglas t, plastic, rubber and vinyl
Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels and floor mats
Spray on and rinse with water
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Silicone Tire Shine
Finish Enhancer
Cleaner Wax
Surface Cleaner
Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric
Shines vehicle without scratching
Spray on tire shine
Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants
Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish
Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks
See your General Motors Parts Department for these products.
See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
* For exterior use only.
** Not recommended for use on instrument panels.
6-58
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.
Engine Identification
The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.
Service Parts Identification Label
You’ll find this label inside the glove box on the door.
It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:
D your VIN,
D the model designation,
D paint information and
D a list of all production options and special equipment.
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.
6-59
Electrical System
Add-On Electrical Equipment
NOTICE:
Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add
on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing
Your Air Bag
-
Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by fuses, circuit breakers and thermal links in the wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems.
Look at the silver
colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the correct size.
If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without
--
like the radio or cigarette lighter
--
and use its fuse, if it is the size you need. Replace it as soon as you can.
Before replacing a fuse, turn every vehicle electrical switch off.
There are two fuse blocks in your vehicle: the instrument panel fuse block and the engine compartment fuse block.
6-60
Instrument Panel Fuse Block
This fuse box is under the left side of the instrument panel. The fuses here protect each separate circuit including headlamps. If you have electrical failure, check here first.
Fuse
P/W
DOM
TAIL
HAZ
IG
Usage
Power Windows
Dome Light
License Plate Light, Clearance/Marker
Lights, Instrument Panel Illumination
Hazard Lights
O
2
Sensor Heater, Cruise Control,
Ignition Coil, Meter, G Sensor
6-61
Fuse
CIG
D/L
STP
FOG
DEF
S/H
TRN
WIP
Usage
Cigar Lighter, Radio, Power Mirror
Door Locks
Brake Light, Horn, Center High
-
Mounted
Stop Lamp
Not Used
Rear Window Defogger, DRL
Not Used
Turn Signal, Back
-
Up Light
Windshield Wiper/Washer, Rear Window
Wiper/Washer
Please note, fuses for the air bags are located next to the instrument panel fuse block.
Engine Compartment Fuse Block
The main fuse box in your engine compartment protects all electrical loads.
For access to the main fuses, pull off the cover. A spare fuse is also inside the fuse box.
6-62
Fuse Usage
1 Accessory Power Outlet
2
3
Electronic Fuel Injection System
Right Headlamp
Fuse Usage
4 Left Headlamp, High
-
Beam Indicator
5
6
7
Heater
Hazard Lamps, Rear Combination
Lamps, Dome Light, Horn
Cigar Lighter, Radio, I.G. Coil, Meter,
Wiper, Washer, Rear Defroster, Turn
Signals, Back
-
Up Lamps
Anti
-
Lock Brake System 8
9
10
All Electrical Loads
Air Conditioning
6-63
Replacement Bulbs
Lamps
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bulb Number
Back
up Lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 921
Dome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 96051559 or equivalent
Front Parking and Turn Signal . . . . . . . . . . . 1157 NA
Headlamp (Halogen)
Right Hand
Left Hand
. . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 91174685 or equivalent
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 91174687 or equivalent
Rear Hazard and Turn Signal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 921
Rear Parking and Stop
Sidemarker
. . . . . . GM Part No. 91174349 or equivalent
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Capacities and Specifications
The following approximate capacities are given in
English and metric conversions.
Air Conditioning
. . . . . . . . . . . . See the refrigerant information label under the hood.
Cooling System
1.6L Engine
2.0L Engine
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankcase with Filter
1.6L Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5.8 quarts (5.5 L)
6.9 quarts (6.5 L)
4.4 quarts (4.2 L)**
2.0L Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 quarts (5.2 L)**
Fuel Tank
Two
-
Door Convertible
Four
-
Door Hardtop
. . . . . 14.8 U.S. Gallons (56 L)
. . . . . . . 17.4 U.S. Gallons (66 L)
Automatic Transmission
Drain and Refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Manual Transmission
Four
-
Wheel Drive
Two
-
Wheel Drive
. . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . .
Differential
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Transfer Case
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.6 quarts (2.5 L)*
1.6 quarts (1.5 L)*
2.0 quarts (1.9 L)*
1.1 quarts (1.0 L)*
2.3 quarts (2.2 L)*
1.8 quarts (1.7 L)
*Recheck fluid level after filling. See “Automatic
Transmission Fluid” or “Manual Transmission Fluid” in the Index.
**When changing the oil filter, additional oil may be needed. Recheck the oil level after filling. See “Engine
Oil” in the Index.
6-64
1.6L Engine Specifications
VIN Engine Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
L4
Horsepower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Firing Order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thermostat Temperature . . . . . . . . . . .
1
-
3
-
4
-
2
190
_F (88_C)
2.0L Engine Specifications
VIN Engine Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
C
L4
Horsepower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Firing Order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thermostat Temperature . . . . . . . . . . .
1
-
3
-
4
-
2
179
_F (82_C)
Wheel and Tires
Wheel Nut Torque
Tire Pressure
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
69 lb
ft (95 N·m)
See the Tire
-
Loading
Information label. See “Loading
Your Vehicle” in the Index.
Normal Maintenance
Replacement Parts
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter . . . . GM Part No. 91174457 or equivalent
Engine Oil Filter
1.6L Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 25011520 or equivalent (PF
-
53)
2.0L Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 91173772
PCV Valve
1.6L Engine
2.0L Engine
. . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 96068664 or equivalent
. . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 91174516 or equivalent
Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 91173854 or equivalent
Passenger Compartment
Air Filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GM Part No. 91175057 or equivalent
6-65
Vehicle Dimensions
Length
Two
-
Door Convertible
Two
-
Wheel Drive . . . . . . .
Four
-
Wheel Drive . . . . . . .
Four
-
Door Hardtop
Two
-
Wheel Drive
Four
-
Wheel Drive
. . . . . . .
. . . . . . .
151.6 inches (385.1 cm)
151.8 inches (385.6 cm)
162.6 inches (413.0 cm)
162.8 inches (413.5 cm)
Width
Two
-
Door Convertible
Four
-
Door Hardtop
. . . . . .
. . . . . . . .
67.3 inches (170.9 cm)
67.3 inches (170.9 cm)
Height
Two
-
Door Convertible
Two
-
Wheel Drive . . . . . . . .
Four
-
Wheel Drive
Four
-
Door Hardtop
Two
-
Wheel Drive
Four
-
Wheel Drive
. . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . .
66.5 inches (168.9 cm)
66.5 inches (168.9 cm)
65.6 inches (166.6 cm)
66.3 inches (168.4 cm)
Wheelbase
Two
-
Door Convertible
Four
-
Door Hardtop
. . . . . .
. . . . . . . .
Tread
86.6 inches (220.0 cm)
97.6 inches (247.9 cm)
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.5 inches (146.1 cm)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57.5 inches (146.1 cm)
6-66
Section 7 Maintenance Schedule
This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services
10 Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
30 Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
45 Part B: Owner Checks and Services
49 Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections
51 Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
7-
7-1
Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your
Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet, or your dealer
for details.
Introduction
Your Vehicle and the Environment
Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance procedures are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good condition, please maintain your vehicle properly.
Maintenance Requirements
Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good working condition. Any damage caused by failure to follow recommended maintenance may not be covered by warranty.
7-2
How This Section is Organized
This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts:
“Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” shows what to have done and how often. Some of these services can be complex, so unless you are technically qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should let your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center do these jobs.
CAUTION:
Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance work only if you have the required know
how and the proper tools and equipment for the job.
If you have any doubt, have a qualified technician do the work.
“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what should be checked and when. It also explains what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good condition.
“Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains important inspections that your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center should perform.
“Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists some recommended products necessary to help keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or their equivalents, should be used whether you do the work yourself or have it done.
“Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for you to record and keep track of the maintenance performed on your vehicle. Keep your maintenance receipts.
They may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty repairs.
If you want to get the service information, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.
7-3
Part A: Scheduled
Maintenance Services
Using Your Maintenance Schedule
We at General Motors want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You may use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many other ways.
Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more frequent checks and replacements. So please read the following and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your dealer.
This part tells you the maintenance services you should have done and when you should schedule them. If you go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know that GM
trained and supported service people will perform the work using genuine GM parts.
The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in
Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives the vehicle.
These schedules are for vehicles that:
D carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s
Tire
-
Loading Information label. See “Loading Your
Vehicle” in the Index.
D are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal driving limits.
D are driven off
“Off
road in the recommended manner. See
-
Road Driving With Your Four
-
Wheel
-
Drive
Vehicle” in the Index.
D use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index.
Selecting the Right Schedule
First you’ll need to decide which of the two schedules is right for your vehicle. Here’s how to decide which schedule to follow:
7-4
Scheduled Maintenance
Short Trip/City Definition
Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if any one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:
D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop
and
go traffic).
D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.
D If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.
One of the reasons you should follow this schedule if you operate your vehicle under any of these conditions is that these conditions cause engine oil to break down sooner.
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).
Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Passenger
Compartment Air Filter Inspection. Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Inspection, if driving in dusty conditions. Front
Wheel Bearing Repack (2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first). Automatic
Transmission Service (severe conditions only).
Manual Transmission Fluid Change. Transfer Case
Fluid Change. Differential Fluid Change. Valve Lash
(Clearance) Adjustment (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
Propeller Shafts and U
-
Joints Inspection (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first).
(Continued)
7-5
Scheduled Maintenance
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Replacement. Passenger Compartment Air
Filter Replacement. Spark Plug Replacement. Engine
Accessory Drive Belt Inspection (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first). Cooling System Service
(or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection. Fuel Filter
Replacement (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
Every 45,000 Miles (75 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Fluid Hose Replacement
(or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) Valve Replacement.
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Fuel Tank Cap
Gasket Replacement. Emission System Hoses
Inspection. Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement
(1.6L Code 6 engine only). Brake Fluid Service.
Spark Plug Wire Replacement (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first). Wiring Harness and
Connectors Inspection (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
At 90,000 Miles (150 000 km): Camshaft Timing Belt
Inspection (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions). Evaporative
Emissions Canister Replacement.
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.
7-6
Scheduled Maintenance
Long Trip/Highway Definition
Follow this scheduled maintenance only if none of the conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City schedule for these conditions.
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (severe conditions only).
Passenger Compartment Air Filter Inspection. Valve
Lash (Clearance) Adjustment (1.6L Code 6 engine only). Propeller Shafts and U
-
Joints Inspection
(or every 15 months, whichever occurs first).
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Accessory
Drive Belt Inspection (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first). Cooling System Service (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). Fuel Tank, Cap and
Lines Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Engine Air
Cleaner Filter Replacement. Passenger Compartment
Air Filter Replacement. Front Wheel Bearing Repack
(2WD only) (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first). Manual Transmission Fluid Change.
Transfer Case Fluid Change. Differential Fluid Change.
Fuel Filter Replacement (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
(Continued)
7-7
Scheduled Maintenance
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 45,000 Miles (75 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Fluid Hose Replacement
(or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) Valve Replacement.
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Fuel Tank Cap
Gasket Replacement. Emission System Hoses
Inspection. Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement
(1.6L Code 6 engine only). Spark Plug Wire
Replacement (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first). Wiring Harness and Connectors Inspection
(or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
Brake Fluid Service.
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
At 90,000 Miles (150 000 km): Camshaft Timing Belt
Inspection (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions).
Evaporative Emissions Canister Replacement.
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.
7-8
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals.
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections” following.
Footnotes
[ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the parking brake lever and cable, suspension system and propeller shafts and steering wheel linkage.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of this schedule.
7-9
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
3,000 Miles (5 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
6,000 Miles (10 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
9,000 Miles (15 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
12,000 Miles (20 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-10
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect engine air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions. Replace filter if necessary.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-11
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
15,000 Miles (25 000 km) (Continued)
j Change differential fluid.
j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
18,000 Miles (30 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
21,000 Miles (35 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-12
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
24,000 Miles (40 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
27,000 Miles (45 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Replace passenger compartment air filter.
j Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace parts as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-13
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
30,000 Miles (50 000 km) (Continued)
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use. Inspect hoses.
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace engine air cleaner filter.
An Emission Control Service. j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
7-14
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first, or sooner if filter is clogged).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
33,000 Miles (55 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-15
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
36,000 Miles (60 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
39,000 Miles (65 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
42,000 Miles (70 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-16
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Replace automatic transmission fluid hose (or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Inspect engine air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions.
Replace filter if necessary.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.)
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-17
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
45,000 Miles (75 000 km) (Continued)
j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
48,000 Miles (80 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
j Replace Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Replace any worn, plugged or collapsed hoses.
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-18
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
51,000 Miles (85 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
54,000 Miles (90 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
57,000 Miles (95 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Replace passenger compartment air filter.
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-19
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km) (Continued)
j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use. Inspect hoses.
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
7-20
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
j Replace spark plug wires (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect the underhood wiring harness for loose connections, chafed wires and damage (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Drain, refill and bleed the brake system.
j Replace the camshaft timing belt (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace parts as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Replace engine air cleaner filter.
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace parts as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.)
(Continued)
7-21
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km) (Continued)
j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect emission system hoses and replace as necessary.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
63,000 Miles (105 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
66,000 Miles (110 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-22
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
69,000 Miles (115 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
72,000 Miles (120 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
SERVICED BY:
7-23
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
75,000 Miles (125 000 km) (Continued)
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Inspect engine air cleaner filter if you are driving in dusty conditions.
Replace filter if necessary.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
7-24
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
78,000 Miles (130 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
81,000 Miles (135 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
84,000 Miles (140 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
87,000 Miles (145 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-25
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Replace passenger compartment air filter.
j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Replace automatic transmission fluid hose (or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first).
j Inspect camshaft timing belt (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.)
7-26
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
j Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace parts as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use. Inspect hoses.
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace engine air cleaner filter.
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
(Continued)
7-27
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
90,000 Miles (150 000 km) (Continued)
j Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
93,000 Miles (155 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
96,000 Miles (160 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-28
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
99,000 Miles (165 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
j If you haven’t used your vehicle under severe service conditions listed previously and, therefore, haven’t changed your automatic transmission fluid, change both the fluid and filter.
j Replace Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Replace any worn, plugged or collapsed hoses.
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace evaporative emissions canister.
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-29
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals.
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections” following.
Footnotes
[ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the parking brake lever and cable, suspension system and propeller shafts and steering wheel linkage.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of this schedule.
7-30
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
7,500 Miles (12 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
SERVICED BY:
7-31
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
15,000 Miles (25 000 km) (Continued)
j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
22,500 Miles (37 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Replace passenger compartment air filter.
j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-32
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first).
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use. Inspect hoses.
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
(Continued)
7-33
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
30,000 Miles (50 000 km) (Continued)
j Replace engine air cleaner filter.
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace parts as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first, or sooner if filter is clogged).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
7-34
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
37,500 Miles (62 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Replace automatic transmission fluid hose (or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
SERVICED BY:
7-35
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
45,000 Miles (75 000 km) (Continued)
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
j Replace Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Replace any worn, plugged or collapsed hoses.
An Emission Control Service.
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-36
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Replace passenger compartment air filter.
j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-37
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km) (Continued)
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use. Inspect hoses.
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace engine air cleaner filter.
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace parts as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.(See footnote
[.) j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
7-38
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j Inspect emission system hoses and replace as necessary.
An Emission Control Service.(See footnote
[.) j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
j Inspect the underhood wiring harness for loose connections, chafed wires and damage (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Replace the camshaft timing belt (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.(See footnote
[.) j Replace spark plug wires (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Drain, refill and bleed the brake system.
67,500 Miles (112 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-39
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect passenger compartment air filter.
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-40
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
82,500 Miles (137 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Replace passenger compartment air filter.
j For Two
-
Wheel
-
Drive vehicles only: Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every 24 months, whichever occurs first).
j Replace automatic transmission fluid hose (or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
j Inspect camshaft timing belt (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
(Continued)
7-41
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
90,000 Miles (150 000 km) (Continued)
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90
_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use. Inspect hoses.
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace engine air cleaner filter.
An Emission Control Service. j Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace parts as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.)
7-42
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j Change manual transmission fluid.
j Change transfer case fluid.
j Change differential fluid.
j Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect the valve lash and adjust if necessary (1.6L Code 6 engine only).
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect propeller shafts and u
joints for looseness and damage (or every
15 months, whichever occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off
road or for pulling a trailer. Tighten u
joint flange bolts if necessary.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
97,500 Miles (162 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-43
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
j If you haven’t used your vehicle under severe service conditions listed previously and, therefore, haven’t changed your automatic transmission fluid, change both the fluid and filter.
j Replace Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. Replace any worn, plugged or collapsed hoses.
An Emission Control Service.
j Inspect Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace evaporative emissions canister.
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-44
Part B: Owner Checks and Services
Listed in this part are owner checks and services which should be performed at the intervals specified to help ensure the safety, dependability and emission control performance of your vehicle.
Be sure any necessary repairs are completed at once.
Whenever any fluids or lubricants are added to your vehicle, make sure they are the proper ones, as shown in Part D.
At Each Fuel Fill
It is important for you or a service station attendant to perform these underhood checks at each fuel fill.
Engine Oil Level Check
Check the engine oil level and add the proper oil if necessary. See “Engine Oil” in the Index for further details.
Engine Coolant Level Check
Check the engine coolant level and add the proper coolant mixture if necessary. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for further details.
Windshield Washer Fluid Level Check
Check the windshield washer fluid level in the windshield washer tank and add the proper fluid if necessary. See “Windshield Washer Fluid” in the Index for further details.
Hood Latch Operation Check
Pull the primary hood latch release handle inside the vehicle. The secondary latch should keep the hood from opening all the way when the primary latch is released.
Make sure the hood closes firmly. See “Hood Release” in the Index for further details.
At Least Once a Month
Tire Inflation Check
Make sure tires are inflated to the correct pressures.
Don’t forget to check your spare tire. See “Tires” in the Index for further details.
Cassette Deck Service
Clean cassette deck. Cleaning should be done every
50 hours of tape play. See “Audio Systems” in the
Index for further details.
7-45
At Least Twice a Year
Restraint System Check
Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced.
Also look for any opened or broken air bag coverings, and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.)
Wiper Blade Check
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or miss areas of the windshield. Also see “Wiper Blades,
Cleaning” in the Index.
Weatherstrip Lubrication
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.)
7-46
Fluid Level Check
Check the transfer case, axle differential(s) and automatic or manual transmission fluid levels and add as needed. See “Transfer Case,” “Axle, Rear,”
“Axle, Front” and “Automatic Transmission” or
“Manual Transmission” in the Index. Check for leaks.
A fluid loss in these systems could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired at once.
At Least Once a Year
Key Lock Cylinders Service
Lubricate the key lock cylinders with the lubricant specified in Part D.
Body Lubrication Service
Lubricate all body door hinges. Also lubricate all hinges and latches, including those for the hood, rear compartment, glove box door, console door and any folding seat hardware. Part D tells you what to use.
More frequent lubrication may be required when exposed to a corrosive environment.
Starter Switch Check
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control
System Check
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be injured. Follow the steps below.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room around the vehicle.
2. Firmly apply both the parking brake (see “Parking
Brake” in the Index if necessary) and the regular brake.
NOTE: Do not use the accelerator pedal, and be ready to turn off the engine immediately if it starts.
3. On automatic transmission vehicles, try to start the engine in each gear. The starter should work only in
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N). If the starter works in any other position, your vehicle needs service.
On manual transmission vehicles, put the shift lever in NEUTRAL (N), push the clutch down halfway and try to start the engine. The starter should work only when the clutch is pushed down all the way to the floor. If the starter works when the clutch isn’t pushed all the way down, your vehicle needs service.
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be injured. Follow the steps below.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room around the vehicle. It should be parked on a level surface.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake (see “Parking Brake” in the Index if necessary).
NOTE: Be ready to apply the regular brake immediately if the vehicle begins to move.
3. With the engine off, turn the key to the ON position, but don’t start the engine. Without applying the regular brake, try to move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) with normal effort. If the shift lever moves out of PARK (P), your vehicle needs service.
7-47
Ignition Transmission Lock Check
While parked, and with the parking brake set, try to turn the ignition key to LOCK in each shift lever position.
D With an automatic transmission, the key should turn to LOCK only when the shift lever is in PARK (P).
D With a manual transmission, the key should turn to
LOCK only if you push the key in farther, while turning it towards LOCK.
On all vehicles, the key should come out only in LOCK.
Parking Brake and Automatic Transmission
PARK (P) Mechanism Check
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, your vehicle could begin to move. You or others could be injured and property could be damaged. Make sure there is room in front of your vehicle in case it begins to roll. Be ready to apply the regular brake at once should the vehicle begin to move.
Park on a fairly steep hill, with the vehicle facing downhill. Keeping your foot on the regular brake, set the parking brake.
D To check the parking brake’s holding ability: With the engine running and transmission in
NEUTRAL (N), slowly remove foot pressure from the regular brake pedal. Do this until the vehicle is held by the parking brake only.
D To check the PARK (P) mechanism’s holding ability:
With the engine running, shift to PARK (P). Then release the parking brake followed by the regular brake. If your vehicle is four
wheel drive, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).
Underbody Flushing Service
At least every spring, use plain water to flush any corrosive materials from the underbody. Take care to clean thoroughly any areas where mud and other debris can collect.
7-48
Part C: Periodic Maintenance
Inspections
Listed in this part are inspections and services which should be performed at least twice a year (for instance, each spring and fall). You should let your dealer’s
service department or other qualified service center do these jobs. Make sure any necessary repairs are completed at once.
Proper procedures to perform these services may be found in a service manual. See “Service and Owner
Publications” in the Index.
Steering, Suspension and Front Drive Axle
Boot and Seal Inspection
Inspect the front and rear suspension and steering system for damaged, loose or missing parts, signs of wear or lack of lubrication. Inspect the power steering lines and hoses for proper hook
up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Clean and then inspect the drive axle boot seals for damage, tears or leakage.
Replace seals if necessary.
Exhaust System Inspection
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body near the exhaust system. Look for broken, damaged, missing or out
of
position parts as well as open seams, holes, loose connections or other conditions which could cause a heat build
up in the floor pan or could let exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.
Engine Cooling System Inspection
Inspect the hoses and have them replaced if they are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes, fittings and clamps; replace as needed. Clean the outside of the radiator and air conditioning condenser. To help ensure proper operation, a pressure test of the cooling system and pressure cap is recommended at least once a year.
7-49
Throttle System Inspection
Inspect the throttle system for interference or binding, and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as needed. Replace any components that have high effort or excessive wear. Do not lubricate accelerator and cruise control cables.
Rear Axle (All) and Front Axle
(Four-Wheel Drive) Service
Check the gear lubricant level and add if needed. See
“Rear Axle” and “Four
-
Wheel Drive” in the Index.
A fluid loss may indicate a problem. Check the system(s), and repair the system(s) if needed. Refer to
“Scheduled Maintenance Services,” earlier in this section, to determine when to change the lubricant.
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and hoses for proper hook
up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors for surface condition. Also inspect drum brake linings for wear and cracks. Inspect other brake parts, including drums, wheel cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.
Check parking brake adjustment. You may need to have your brakes inspected more often if your driving habits or conditions result in frequent braking.
7-50
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
NOTE: Fluids and lubricants identified below by name, part number or specification may be obtained from your dealer.
USAGE
Engine Oil
Engine Coolant
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Engine Oil with the American
Petroleum Institute Certified
For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol of the proper viscosity.
To determine the preferred viscosity for your vehicle’s engine, see “Engine Oil” in the Index.
50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water (preferable distilled) and good quality
Ethylene Glycol Base Coolant
(GM Part No. 1052753 or equivalent) conforming to
GM Specification 1825M or approved recycled coolant conforming to GM
Specification 1825M. See
“Engine Coolant” in the Index.
USAGE
Hydraulic
Brake System
Windshield
Washer Solvent
Hydraulic
Clutch System
Parking Brake
Cable Guides
Power
Steering System
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Delco Supreme 11
R
Brake
Fluid (GM Part No. 12377967 or equivalent DOT
-
3
Brake Fluid).
GM Optikleen
R
Washer
Solvent (GM Part
No. 1051515) or equivalent.
Hydraulic Clutch Fluid
(GM Part No. 12345347 or equivalent DOT
-
3 Brake Fluid).
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2, Category LB or GC
-
LB.
DEXRON
R
-
III Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
7-51
USAGE
Manual
Transmission (All) and Transfer Case
(Four
-
Wheel
-
Drive)
Automatic
Transmission
Key Lock
Cylinders
Manual
Transmission
Shift Linkage
FLUID/LUBRICANT
GM Goodwrench Synthetic
Manual Transmission Fluid
(GM Part No. 12346190
-
1 quart) or equivalent SAE
75W
-
85 GL
-
4 Gear Oil.
DEXRON
R
-
III Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
Multi
-
Purpose Lubricant,
Superlube
R
(GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2, Category LB or GC
-
LB.
USAGE FLUID/LUBRICANT
Clutch Linkage
Pivot Points
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2, Category LB or GC
-
LB.
Floor Shift Linkage Lubriplate
R
Lubricant Aerosol
(GM Part No. 12346293 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2
Category LB or GC
-
LB.
Chassis Lubrication Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2, Category LB or GC
-
LB.
7-52
USAGE
Front
Wheel Bearings
Rear Axle (All) and Front Axle
(Four
-
Wheel Drive)
Hood Latch
Assembly,
Secondary Latch,
Pivots, Spring
Anchor and
Release Pawl
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Wheel Bearing Lubricant meeting requirements of
NLGI # 2, Category GC or
GC
-
LB (GM Part No. 1051344 or equivalent).
Axle Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12345977) or SAE 80W
-
90
GL
-
5 Gear Lubricant.
Lubriplate
R
Lubricant Aerosol
(GM Part No. 12346293 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2,
Category LB or GC
-
LB.
USAGE
Hood and
Door Hinges
Weatherstrip
Conditioning
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Multi
-
Purpose Lubricant,
Superlube
R
(GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Dielectric Silicone Grease
(GM Part No. 12345579 or equivalent).
7-53
Part E: Maintenance Record
After the scheduled services are performed, record the date, odometer reading and who performed the service in the boxes provided after the maintenance interval.
Any additional information from “Owner Checks and
Services” or “Periodic Maintenance” can be added on the following record pages. Also, you should retain all maintenance receipts. Your owner information portfolio is a convenient place to store them.
Maintenance Record
DATE
ODOMETER
READING
SERVICED BY MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-54
DATE
ODOMETER
READING
Maintenance Record
SERVICED BY MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-55
DATE
ODOMETER
READING
Maintenance Record
SERVICED BY MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-56
Section 8 Customer Assistance Information
Here you will find out how to contact Chevrolet if you need assistance. This section also tells you how to obtain service publications and how to report any safety defects.
Customer Satisfaction Procedure
Customer Assistance for Text Telephone
GM Mobility Program for Persons with Disabilities
Chevrolet Roadside Assistance Program
10 Reporting Safety Defects to the United
10 Reporting Safety Defects to the
11 Reporting Safety Defects to General Motors
11 Ordering Owner Publications in Canada
8-
8-1
Customer Satisfaction Procedure
Your satisfaction and goodwill are important to your dealer and to Chevrolet. Normally, any concerns with the sales transaction or the operation of your vehicle will be resolved by your dealer’s sales or service departments. Sometimes, however, despite the best intentions of all concerned, misunderstandings can occur. If your concern has not been resolved to your satisfaction, the following steps should be taken:
STEP ONE -- Discuss your concern with a member of dealership management. Normally, concerns can be quickly resolved at that level. If the matter has already been reviewed with the sales, service or parts manager, contact the owner of the dealership or the general manager.
8-2
STEP TWO -- If after contacting a member of dealership management, it appears your concern cannot be resolved by the dealership without further help, contact the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center by calling 1-800-222-1020. In Canada, contact GM of Canada
Customer Communication Centre in Oshawa by calling
1-800-263-3777 (English) or 1-800-263-7854 (French).
We encourage you to call the toll-free number in order to give your inquiry prompt attention. Please have the following information available to give the Customer
Assistance Representative:
D Vehicle Identification Number (This is available from the vehicle registration or title, or the plate at the top left of the instrument panel and visible through the windshield.)
D Dealership name and location
D Vehicle delivery date and present mileage
When contacting Chevrolet, please remember that your concern will likely be resolved at a dealer’s facility. That is why we suggest you follow Step One first if you have a concern.
STEP THREE -- Both General Motors and your dealer are committed to making sure you are completely satisfied with your new vehicle. However, if you continue to remain unsatisfied after following the procedure outlined in Steps One and Two, file with the
GM/BBB Auto Line Program to enforce any additional rights you may have. Canadian owners refer to your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information booklet for information on the Canadian Motor Vehicle
Arbitration Plan (CAMVAP).
8-3
The BBB Auto Line Program is an out of court program administered by the Council of Better Business Bureaus to settle automotive disputes regarding vehicle repairs or the interpretation of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Although you are required to resort to this informal dispute resolution program prior to filing any court action, use of the program is free of charge and your case will generally be heard within 40 days. If you do not agree with the decision given in your case, you may reject it and proceed with any other venue for relief available to you.
You may contact the BBB using the toll
free telephone number or write them at the following address:
BBB Auto Line
Council of Better Business Bureaus, Inc.
4200 Wilson Boulevard
Suite 800
Arlington, VA 22203
-
1804
Telephone: 1
-
800
-
955
-
5100
This program is available in all 50 states and the District of Columbia. Eligibility is limited by vehicle age, mileage and other factors. General Motors reserves the right to change eligibility limitations and/or discontinue its participation in this program.
Customer Assistance for Text
Telephone (TTY) Users
To assist customers who are deaf, hard of hearing, or speech
impaired and who use Text Telephones (TTYs),
Chevrolet has TTY equipment available at its Customer
Assistance Center. Any TTY user can communicate with
Chevrolet by dialing: 1
-
800
-
833
-
CHEV (2438). (TTY users in Canada can dial 1
-
800
-
263
-
3830.)
Customer Assistance Offices
Chevrolet encourages customers to call the toll-free number for assistance. If a U.S. customer wishes to write to Chevrolet, the letter should be addressed to Chevrolet’s
Customer Assistance Center.
United States
Chevrolet Motor Division
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 7047
Troy, MI 48007-7047
1-800-222-1020
1-800-833-2438 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-CHEV-USA
R
(243-8872)
8-4
Canada
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
1-800-263-3777 (English)
1-800-263-7854 (French)
1-800-263-3830 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-268-6800
All Overseas Locations
GMODC
-
Customer Communication Centre
169-007
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Telephone: 905-644-4112
Fax: 905-644-4866
Caribbean Numbers
1-800-496-9992 (English) Puerto Rico
1-800-496-9993 (Spanish) Puerto Rico
1-800-751-4135 (English) Dominican Republic
1-800-751-4136 (Spanish) Dominican Republic
1-800-496-9994 U.S. Virgin Islands
1-800-389-0009 Bahamas
1-800-534-0122 Bermuda, Barbados, Antigua & B.V.I.
If toll free service is not available in the Caribbean, call Puerto Rico 1-787-763-1315.
GM Mobility Program for Persons with Disabilities
This program, available to qualified applicants, can reimburse you up to $1,000 toward aftermarket driver or passenger adaptive equipment you may require for your vehicle (hand controls, wheelchair/scooter lifts, etc.).
This program can also provide you with free resource information, such as area driver assessment centers and mobility equipment installers. The program is available for a limited period of time from the date of vehicle purchase/lease. See your dealer for more details or call the GM Mobility Assistance Center at 1
Text telephone (TTY) users, call 1
-
800
-
323
-
9935.
-
800
-
833
-
9935.
GM of Canada also has a Mobility Program.
Call 1
-
800
-
GM
-
DRIVE (463
-
7483) for details.
When calling from outside Canada, please dial
1
-
905
-
644
-
3063. All TTY users call 1
-
800
-
263
-
3830.
8-5
Chevrolet Roadside Assistance Program
To enhance Chevrolet’s strong commitment to customer satisfaction, Chevrolet is excited to announce the establishment of the Chevrolet Roadside Assistance
Center. As the owner of a 2000 Chevrolet, membership in Roadside Assistance is free.
Roadside Assistance is available 24 hours a day,
365 days a year, by calling 1
-
800
-
CHEV-USA (243
-
8872).
This toll-free number will provide you over
the
phone roadside assistance with minor mechanical problems.
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If your problem cannot be resolved over the phone, our advisors have access to a nationwide network of dealer recommended service providers. Roadside membership is free; however some services may incur costs.
Roadside offers two levels of service to the customer,
Basic Care and Courtesy Care:
D Toll
free number, 1
-
800
-
CHEV
-
USA (243-8872)
D Free towing for warranty repairs
D Basic over
the
phone technical advice
D Available dealer services at reasonable costs (i.e., wrecker services, locksmith/key service, glass repair, etc.)
ROADSIDE Courtesy Care PROVIDES:
D Roadside Basic Care services (as outlined previously)
Plus:
D FREE Non
-
Warranty Towing (to the closest dealer from a legal roadway)
D FREE Locksmith/Key Service (when keys are lost on the road or locked inside)
D FREE Flat Tire Service (spare installed on the road)
D FREE Jump Start (at home or on the road)
D FREE Fuel Delivery ($5 of fuel delivered on the road)
Chevrolet offers Courtesy Transportation for customers needing warranty service. Courtesy Transportation will be offered in conjunction with the coverage provided by the Bumper
to
-
Bumper New Vehicle Limited Warranty to eligible purchasers of 2000 Chevrolet passenger cars and light duty trucks. (Please see your selling dealer for details.)
Note: Courtesy Care is available to retail and retail lease customers operating 2000 and newer Chevrolet vehicles for a period of 3 years/36,000 miles (60 000 km), whichever occurs first. All Courtesy Care services must be pre
arranged by Chevrolet Roadside or dealer service management.
Basic Care and Courtesy Care are not part of or included in the coverage provided by the New Vehicle
Limited Warranty. Chevrolet reserves the right to modify or discontinue Basic Care and Courtesy Care at any time.
For complete program details, see your Chevrolet dealer to obtain a Roadside Assistance Center brochure.
The Roadside Assistance Center uses companies that will provide you with quality and priority service. When roadside services are required, our advisors will explain any payment obligations that may be incurred for utilizing outside services.
For prompt assistance when calling, please have the following available to give to the advisor:
D Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
D License plate number
D Vehicle color
D Vehicle location
D Telephone number where you can be reached
D Vehicle mileage
D Description of problem
Please refer to the Roadside Assistance brochure inside your owner information portfolio for full program details.
Canadian Roadside Assistance
Vehicles purchased in Canada have an extensive
Roadside Assistance program accessible from anywhere in Canada or the United States. Please refer to the separate brochure provided by the dealer or call
1
-
800
-
268
-
6800 for emergency services.
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Courtesy Transportation
Chevrolet has always exemplified quality and value in its offering of motor vehicles. To enhance your ownership experience, we and our participating dealers are proud to offer Courtesy Transportation, a customer support program for new vehicles.
The Courtesy Transportation program is offered to retail purchase/lease customers in conjunction with the
Bumper
to
-
Bumper coverage provided by the New
Vehicle Limited Warranty. Several transportation options are available when warranty repairs are required. This will reduce your inconvenience during warranty repairs.
Plan Ahead When Possible
When your vehicle requires warranty service, you should contact your dealer and request an appointment.
By scheduling a service appointment and advising your service consultant of your transportation needs, your dealer can help minimize your inconvenience. If your vehicle cannot be scheduled into the service department immediately, keep driving it until it can be scheduled for service, unless, of course, the problem is safety
related.
If it is, please call your dealership, let them know this, and ask for instructions.
If the dealer requests that you simply drop the vehicle off for service, you are urged to do so as early in the work day as possible to allow for same day repair.
Transportation Options
Warranty service can generally be completed while you wait. However, if you are unable to wait Chevrolet helps minimize your inconvenience by providing several transportation options. Depending on the circumstances, your dealer can offer you one of the following:
Shuttle Service
Participating dealers can provide you with shuttle service to get you to your destination with minimal interruption of your daily schedule. This includes a one way shuttle ride to a destination up to 10 miles from the dealership.
Public Transportation or Fuel Reimbursement
If your vehicle requires overnight warranty repairs, reimbursement up to $30 per day (five days maximum) may be available for the use of public transportation such as taxi or bus. In addition, should you arrange transportation through a friend or relative, reimbursement for reasonable fuel expenses up to
$10 per day (five day maximum) may be available.
Claim amounts should reflect actual costs and be supported by original receipts.
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Courtesy Rental Vehicle
When your vehicle is unavailable due to overnight warranty repairs, your dealer may arrange to provide you with a courtesy rental vehicle or reimburse you for a rental vehicle you obtained, at actual cost, up to a maximum of $30.00 per day supported by receipts. This requires that you sign and complete a rental agreement and meet state, local and rental vehicle provider requirements. Requirements vary and may include minimum age requirements, insurance coverage, credit card, etc. You are responsible for fuel usage charges and may also be responsible for taxes, levies, usage fees, excessive mileage or rental usage beyond the completion of the repair.
Generally it is not possible to provide a like
vehicle as a courtesy rental.
Additional Program Information
Courtesy Transportation is available during the
Bumper
to
-
Bumper warranty coverage period, but it is not part of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
A separate booklet entitled “Warranty and Owner
Assistance Information” furnished with each new vehicle provides detailed warranty coverage information.
Courtesy Transportation is available only at participating dealers and all program options, such as shuttle service, may not be available at every dealer.
Please contact your dealer for specific information about availability. All Courtesy Transportation arrangements will be administered by appropriate dealer personnel.
Canadian Vehicles: For warranty repairs during the
Complete Vehicle Coverage period of the General
Motors of Canada New Vehicle Limited Warranty, alternative transportation may be available under the
Courtesy Transportation Program. Please consult your dealer for details.
General Motors reserves the right to unilaterally modify, change or discontinue Courtesy Transportation at any time and to resolve all questions of claim eligibility pursuant to the terms and conditions described herein at its sole discretion.
Warranty Information
Your vehicle comes with a separate warranty booklet that contains detailed warranty information.
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REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS
TO THE UNITED STATES
GOVERNMENT
If you believe that your vehicle has a defect which could cause a crash or could cause injury or death, you should immediately inform the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA), in addition to notifying General Motors.
If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may open an investigation, and if it finds that a safety defect exists in a group of vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved in individual problems between you, your dealer or
General Motors.
To contact NHTSA, you may either call the Auto Safety
Hotline toll
free at 1
-
800
-
424
-
9393 (or 366
-
0123 in the
Washington, D.C. area) or write to:
NHTSA, U.S. Department of Transportation
Washington, D.C. 20590
You can also obtain other information about motor vehicle safety from the hotline.
REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO
THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT
If you live in Canada, and you believe that your vehicle has a safety defect, you should immediately notify
Transport Canada, in addition to notifying General
Motors of Canada Limited. You may write to:
Transport Canada
330 Sparks Street
Tower C
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N5
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REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS
TO GENERAL MOTORS
In addition to notifying NHTSA (or Transport Canada) in a situation like this, we certainly hope you’ll notify us. Please call us at 1
-
800
-
222
-
1020, or write:
Chevrolet Motor Division
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 7047
Troy, MI 48007
-
7047
In Canada, please call us at 1
-
800
-
263
-
3777 (English) or 1
-
800
-
263
-
7854 (French). Or, write:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Ordering Owner Publications in Canada
Owner’s manuals are available for purchase for all current and most past model General Motors vehicles.
The toll-free telephone number for ordering information in Canada is 1-800-668-5539.
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2000 CHEVROLET SERVICE PUBLICATIONS ORDERING INFORMATION
The following publications covering the operation and servicing of your vehicle can be purchased by filling out the Service Publication Order Form in this book and mailing it in with your check, money order, or credit card information to Helm, Incorporated (address below.)
CURRENT PUBLICATIONS FOR 2000 CHEVROLET
SERVICE MANUALS
Service Manuals have the diagnosis and repair information on engines, transmission, axle, suspension, brakes, electrical, steering, body, etc.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $120.00
OWNER’S INFORMATION
Owner publications are written directly for Owners and intended to provide basic operational information about the vehicle. The owner’s manual will include the Maintenance
Schedule for all models.
TRANSMISSION, TRANSAXLE, TRANSFER CASE
UNIT REPAIR MANUAL
This manual provides information on unit repair service procedures, adjustments and specifications for the
2000 GM transmissions, transaxles and transfer cases.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $50.00
In-Portfolio: Includes a Portfolio, Owner’s Manual and
Warranty Booklet.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $20.00
Without Portfolio: Owner’s Manual only.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $15.00
SERVICE BULLETINS
Service Bulletins give technical service information needed to knowledgeably service General Motors cars and trucks.
Each bulletin contains instructions to assist in the diagnosis and service of your vehicle.
CURRENT & PAST MODEL ORDER FORMS
Service Publications are available for current and past model GM vehicles. To request an order form, please specify year and model name of the vehicle.
PLEASE COMPLETE THE ORDER FORM SHOWN ON
THE FOLLOWING PAGE AND MAIL TO:
Helm, Incorporated
S
P.O. Box 07130
S
Detroit, MI 48207
8-12
OR ORDER TOLL FREE: 1-800-551-4123
Monday-Friday 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM Eastern Time
For Credit Card Orders Only (VISA–MasterCard–Discover)
0
0
2
0
ORDER TOLL FREE
(NOTE: For Credit Card Holders Only)
1-800-551-4123
(Monday-Friday 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM EST)
FAX Orders Only 1-313-865-5927
Orders will be mailed within 10 days of receipt. Please allow adequate time for postal service. If further information is needed, write to the address shown below or call
1-800-551-4123. Material cannot be returned for credit without packing slip with return information within 30 days of delivery. On returns, a re-stocking fee may be applied against the original order.
ITEM DESCRIPTION
VEHICLE MODEL
NAME YEAR
QTY.
PRICE
EACH*
TOTAL
PRICE
2000 $120.00
Service Manual
Car & Light Truck
Transmission Unit Repair
2000 $50.00
Owner’s Manual In Portfolio 2000 $20.00
Owner’s Manual Without Portfolio 2000 $15.00
G
M
S
H
I
P
T
O
NOTE: Dealers and Companies please provide dealer or company name, and also the name of the person to whose attention the shipment should be sent.
Mail completed order form to:
HELM, INCORPORATED
S
P.O. Box 07130
S
Detroit, MI 48207
For purchases outside U.S.A. please write to the above address for quotation.
(CUSTOMER’S NAME)
(STREET ADDRESS—NO P.O. BOX NUMBERS)
(CITY)
(ATTENTION)
DAYTIME TELEPHONE NO.
GM-CHE-ORD99
(ZIP CODE) (STATE)
( )
AREA CODE
*(Prices are subject to change without notice and without incurring obligation. Allow ample time for delivery.)
P
A
Y
M
E
N
T
Check or Money
Order payable to
Helm, Inc. (USA funds only — do not send cash.)
MasterCard
VISA
Discover
Account
Number:
Expiration
Date mo/yr:
TOTAL MATERIAL
Michigan Purchasers add 6% sales tax
U.S. Order Processing
Canadian Postage
(See Note Below)
GRAND TOTAL
$6.00
Check here if your billing address is different from your shipping address shown.
CUSTOMER SIGNATURE
Note to Canadian Customers: All listed prices are quoted in U.S. funds. Canadian residents
U.S. order processing.
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