Enerzone Solution 3.4 Specifications

Enerzone Solution 3.4 Specifications
INSTALLATION
AND OPERATION
MANUAL
Solution 3.4
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED WOOD
STOVE
Safety tested according to ULC S627
and UL 1482 Standards by
Intertek Testing Services
www.enerzone-intl.com
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, rue de Copenhague,
St-Augustin-de-Desmoures
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Tel: (418) 878-3040
Fax: (418) 878-3001
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a
copyrighted document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this
manual from time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages
arising out of the use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized
sources.
Printed in Canada
45285A
03-09-2014
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS ENERZONE WOOD STOVE
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers,
Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want
to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for safe
and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this stove as you
build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by professionals
who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute®) or in Canada by WETT
(Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association des Professionnels du
Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
When this stove is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire,
follow the installation instructions. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions
and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new stove. Failure to follow
instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death. It is important that
you follow the installations guidelines exactly.
You may need to obtain a building permit for the installation of this stove and the chimney
that it is connected to. Consult your municipal building department or fire department
before installation to determine the need to obtain one. We recommend that you also inform
your home insurance company to find out if the installation will affect your policy.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of
the date you purchased your stove. Keep your sales invoice. We also
recommend that you register your warranty online at:
http://enerzone-intl.com/warranty-registration.aspx
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your stove.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ...............................6
1 Safety Information .....................................................................6
1.1
Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings .................................... 6
2 General Information ...................................................................7
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.4.1
Solution 3.4 Specifications ................................................................................................ 7
Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You ................................................................ 9
The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency .......................................................... 9
The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment ......................................................... 10
What is Your New Stove Made Of? ............................................................................. 10
3 Fuel ............................................................................................11
3.1
Materials That Should Not be Burned.............................................................................. 11
3.2
How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ........................................................................... 11
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood? ............................................................................................. 11
3.2.2 Tree Species ............................................................................................................... 11
3.2.3 Log Length .................................................................................................................. 12
3.2.4 Piece Size ................................................................................................................... 12
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood ................................................................................................... 13
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ............................................................................ 13
3.3
Manufactured Logs ......................................................................................................... 14
4 Operating Your Stove ..............................................................14
4.1
Your First Fires................................................................................................................ 14
4.2
Lighting Fires .................................................................................................................. 15
4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting ........................................................................................... 15
4.2.2 The Top Down Fire ...................................................................................................... 15
4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs ........................................................................................................ 16
4.2.4 Using Fire Starters ....................................................................................................... 16
4.3
Maintaining Wood Fires................................................................................................... 16
4.3.1 General Advice ............................................................................................................ 16
4.3.2 Ash Removal ............................................................................................................... 17
4.3.3 Raking Charcoal .......................................................................................................... 17
4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot ........................................................................................... 18
4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ....................................................................................... 18
4.3.6 Building Different Fires for Different Needs .................................................................. 19
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
3
5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ...............................20
5.1
Stove Maintenance ......................................................................................................... 20
5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance........................................................................................... 20
5.1.2 Cleaning Door Glass.................................................................................................... 21
5.1.3 Door adjustment .......................................................................................................... 22
5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket .......................................................................................... 23
5.1.5 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass.............................................................. 23
5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Stove .................................................................................. 24
5.2
Chimney and Chimney Connector Maintenance.............................................................. 24
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary .......................................................................... 24
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? ............................................................... 24
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney ................................................................................................. 25
PART B - INSTALLATION .............................................................26
6 Safety Information ...................................................................26
6.1
6.2
Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings ............................................................. 26
Regulations Covering Stove Installation .......................................................................... 26
7 Clearances to Combustible Material ......................................27
7.1
7.2
7.3
7.4
7.4.1
7.4.2
Location of the certification label ..................................................................................... 27
Clearances to Walls and Ceiling...................................................................................... 27
Floor protector ................................................................................................................. 29
Reducing Wall and Ceiling Clearances Safely ................................................................. 30
Shield Construction Rules............................................................................................ 30
Table of Clearance Reduction Percentages ................................................................. 32
8 The Venting System .................................................................33
8.1
8.2
8.2.1
8.2.2
8.3
8.4
8.4.1
8.4.2
8.5
8.5.1
8.6
8.6.1
4
General ........................................................................................................................... 33
Suitable Chimneys .......................................................................................................... 33
Factory-built Metal Chimneys ...................................................................................... 33
Masonry Chimneys ...................................................................................................... 34
Minimum Chimney Height ............................................................................................... 34
The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House .................................................. 35
Why inside chimneys are preferred .............................................................................. 35
Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space ..................................... 36
Supply of Combustion Air ................................................................................................ 37
Air Supply in Conventional Houses .............................................................................. 37
Installing the Chimney Connector .................................................................................... 37
Installation of Single Wall Chimney Connector............................................................. 37
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 1: Installing the Optional Door Overlay .....................40
Appendix 2: Installing Trims ........................................................41
Appendix 3: Installation and Use of Air Circulation Fan and
Thermodisc ...............................................................42
Appendix 4: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle ...44
Appendix 5: Exploded Diagram and Parts List ..........................49
ENERZONE LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY .............................52
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
5
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1 Safety Information
1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings
•
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY.
CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR STOVE
OPERATION.
•
USING A STOVE WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLASS OR
FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY
DAMAGE THE STOVE.
•
OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
•
OPERATE ONLY WITH DOOR FULLY CLOSED. IF DOOR IS LEFT PARTLY OPEN, GAS
AND FLAME MAY BE DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING, CREATING RISKS FROM BOTH
FIRE AND SMOKE.
•
THIS STOVE IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH THE DOOR OPEN. THE DOOR MAY
BE OPEN ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. DO NOT LEAVE
THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED DURING IGNITION.
ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
•
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL,
MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR
AEROSOLS TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH
LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE STOVE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
•
DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
•
BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
•
DO NOT BURN:
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
COAL OR CHARCOAL,
TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD, OR
RAILROAD TIES.
•
DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY USING A GRATE IN THIS STOVE.
•
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
2
General Information
2.1 Solution 3.4 Specifications
Fuel Type
Cordwood
Test Standards (safety)
ULC S627 and UL 1482
Test Standard (emissions)
EPA Method 28 (40 CFR Part 60)
Heating capacity range*
1,000 to 2,700 sq. ft. (93 to 251 m2)
Maximum heat output**
(EPA test fuel)
Maximum heat output**
(natural hardwood fuel)
60,175 BTU/h (17.64 kW/h)
100,000 BTU/h (29.31 kW/h)
Optimum efficiency
78 %
Particulate Emissions
3.9 g/h
Test Standard (efficiency)
CSA B415.1
Approximate Burn Time
9 to 10 hours
Shipping Weight
547 lb (248 kg)
Firebox Volume
3.4 cu.ft. (0.104 m3)
Maximum Log Length
22" east-west***
Flue Outlet Diameter:
6" (150 mm) diameter (vertical)
Baffle Material
C-Cast
Mobile home approved
No
* Burn time and heating capacity may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, chimney
diameter, locality, heat loss factors, climate, fuels and other variables.
** The EPA test fuel is dimensional Douglas fir pieces stapled together into cribs with air spaces
between. We also test using the same procedure except using split hardwood firewood to reflect
real-world heat output. This stove is not intended to operate at its peak heat output continuously.
*** East-west: through the door you see the sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you
see the ends of the logs.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You
Your new Solution 3.4 wood stove is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it
is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is
called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Although the stove may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the stove, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season
vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller stoves than houses that are heated all winter.
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Solution 3.4 firebox mean
that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside environment than if
you used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission control technologies than
protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the
fuel. By burning the wood completely, your stove releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to
reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming
combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
9
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your stove can only work properly if
your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section 3 of this manual
for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team are committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use
only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.4.1 What is Your New Stove Made Of?
The body of your stove, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire stove can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coat on your stove is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Components) is very
low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing process
meets the latest air quality requirements with regards to VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder to
form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, an earth derived product. It is
most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a landfill is
recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have
been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is basically
made of raw earth materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a
glass at high temperatures. Ceramic glass will not re-melt in the same way as normal glass, so it
should not be recycled with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is
recommended.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
3 Fuel
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned
•
GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
•
COAL OR CHARCOAL,
•
TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
•
PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
•
FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
•
SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD
•
MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
•
RAILROAD TIES
•
LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the stove, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only
spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes
successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for
different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring
and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are not as dense as
hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating
the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder
woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than
softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice that
only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire
overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can
successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break at
the same time.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
11
3.2.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut about 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are
even slightly too long make loading the stove very difficult. The most common standard length of
firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from piece to
piece.
3.2.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to
burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges
where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section.
Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood
purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is
sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of heat
and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood heating system for concerns about
creosote.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
firewood takes a long time to dry
firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood in
spring and dry it yourself
drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked in
the open for only the summer months
hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if
the pieces are big
firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will
allow your stove to produce its highest possible efficiency
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
•
•
•
•
•
•
cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream coloured to grey or yellow,
bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,
dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp, it
is too wet,
burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
13
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your firewood.
3.3 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but be careful
burning too much of these logs at the same time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the
stove reacts. You can increase the number of logs burned at a time to making sure the
temperature never rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C) on a magnetic thermometer for installation on
single wall stove pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on a probe thermometer for installation on double wall
stove pipe. The thermometer should be placed about 18” (457 mm) above the stove. Higher
temperatures can lead to overheat and damage your stove.
4 Operating Your Stove
4.1 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal components
of the stove are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do
smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first
light your stove, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you burn
hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the paint. The
smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot fires.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and
hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the stove. Once the paint smell disappears,
your stove is ready for serious heating.
4.2 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever method
you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast produces
less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and effective ways
to start wood fires.
4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood fire
is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain
newspaper and place them in the firebox.
Next, place 10 or so pieces of fine kindling
on the newspaper. This kindling should be
very thin; less than 1” (25 mm). Next, place
some larger kindling pieces on the fine
kindling. Open the air control fully and light
the newspaper. If you have a tall, straight
venting system you should be able to close
the door immediately and the fire will
ignite. If your venting system has elbows or
an outside chimney, you may need to
leave the door closed but unlatched for a
few minutes as the newspaper ignites and
heat in the chimney produces some draft.
Once the fire has ignited, close the door
and leave the air control fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED
DURING IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a
fire of the right size for the conditions.
4.2.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it does
not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up to two
hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is well-seasoned.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
15
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4 or 5
more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base logs at right
angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second layer at
right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them in
between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by rolling
up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that they
don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from top to
bottom.
4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs. Now
place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style.
Light the newspaper.
4.2.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters are
made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the
package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox to
start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR
OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.3 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.3.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners these
are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your stove. It is normal for its surface temperature to rise
after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire
progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines. For
example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing housework
or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or watching
television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and
ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was
when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log
on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more, pieces on the fire
at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can be matched to the
amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the stove’s loading door while the wood is
flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the stove
when the door is opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the chimney connector
has 90 degree elbows and if the chimney runs up the outside wall of the house.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR CONTROL
FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.
4.3.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let the
ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the stove is relatively cool, but there is
still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the stove and prevent it from coming into the
room.
After ashes have been removed from the stove and placed in a tightly covered metal container,
they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a
non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final
disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the ashes
are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the
closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste shall not be placed in this
container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN
DECK.
4.3.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the
remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards the
door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates them
near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the new load
quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If you were to
simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that it
will ignite the new load.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
17
4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass. Close the
door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox is full of flames,
the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood hot
accomplishes a few things:
•
•
•
•
drives the surface moisture from the wood,
creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the fire to
burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the stove and the chimney, the result
will be a surge of heat from the stove. This heat surge is welcome when the room temperature is a
little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm. Therefore, allow each
load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little before loading. Letting the
space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning and effective zone heating.
4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for a
steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate slows
down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the flow rate of
exhaust through the stove and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for the transfer of heat
from the exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the flames slow down. This is
your indication that the stove is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost disappear
when you turn down the air, you have turned
down the air too early, or your firewood is
wetter than it should be. With good fuel and
correct air control use, the flames should slow
down, but should stay large and steady, even
as the air supply is reduced.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
4.3.6 Building Different Fires for Different Needs
Using the air control is not the only way to match the stove’s heat output to the heat demand. Your
house will need far less heat in October than in January to be kept at a comfortable temperature. If
you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat the space or turn the stove down so
much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here are some suggestions for building fires to
match different heat demand.
4.3.6.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and load them
crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3” to 4” in diameter. After raking the coals, you
can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to corner in the firebox and lay two more across
them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only reduce the air after the wood is fully
flaming. This kind of fire is good for mild weather when you are around to tend the stove and
should provide enough heat for four hours or more. Small fires like this are a good time to use
softer wood species so there will be less chance of overheating the house.
4.3.6.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires
Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense heat. In this
case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the pieces are packed
tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully char the log surfaces
before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to
burn.
4.3.6.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather
When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily and
brightly. This is the time to use your biggest pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put the biggest
pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built fire like
this will produce the longest burn your stove is capable of.
You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down too
much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to
burn.
4.3.6.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption of that
wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for roughly the first
half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which there is little or no
flame. The length of burn you can expect from your stove, including both the flaming and coal bed
phases, will be affected by a number of things, such as:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
firebox size,
the amount of wood loaded,
the species of wood you burn,
the wood moisture content,
the size of the space to be heated,
the climate zone you live in, and
the time of year.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
19
The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you are likely
to experience, based on firebox volume.
FIREBOX VOLUME
MAXIMUM
BURN TIME
<1.5 cubic feet
3 to 5 hours
1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f
5 to 6 hours
2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f.
6 to 8 hours
2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f.
8 to 9 hours
>3.0 c.f.
9 to 10 hours
Long burn times are not necessarily an indication of efficient stove operation. When you are home
during the day and able to tend the fire, it is preferable to build a smaller fire that might provide
three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer burn. Shorter burn
cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the stove to the heat demand of the space.
4.3.6.5 North-South Fires Versus East-West Fires
In fireboxes that are roughly square, wood can be loaded so that looking through the glass door
you see the ends of the logs (north-south) or the sides of the logs (east-west).
East-west loads that are built compactly break down slowly when heated, but the amount of wood
you can load is limited because if you put in too many pieces, one may fall against the glass. Eastwest loads are excellent for long, low output fires for relatively mild weather.
North-south loads break down more quickly, but much more wood can be loaded at a time. This
makes north-south loading good for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather.
5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System
5.1 Stove Maintenance
Your new stove will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it correctly. Some of
the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air tubes, will wear over time
under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts with original parts (see Appendix 5:
Exploded Diagram and Parts List). For firing each load hot to begin a cycle as described above
will not cause premature deterioration of the stove. However, letting the stove run with the air
control fully open for entire cycles can cause damage over time. The hotter you run the stove
throughout burn cycles, the more quickly its components will deteriorate. For that reason, never
leave the stove unattended while a new load is being fired hot.
5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance
If your appliance has a plated finish, use a metal polish and a soft cloth to clean it. Do not use
abrasives such as steel wool, steel pads or an abrasive cleaner for they may scratch the finish.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
5.1.2 Cleaning Door Glass
Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is dry
enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty deposit will form
on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and can be easily removed
when the stove is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel and then drying. Never try to
clean the glass when the stove is hot.
In spring and fall when the stove is run at lower temperatures, you may see some light brown
stains forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the fire has been
smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the weather is mild, you may
find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a continuous fire. Use the technique
described above for building a fire to take the chill off the house.
If you do get brown stains on the glass you can remove them with special cleaners for wood stove
glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your stove’s door glass.
The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and how well
you are doing in operating the stove. Your goal should be clear glass with no brown stains. If you
continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel and operating procedure
needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete combustion of the wood, which also
means more smoke emissions and faster formation of creosote in the chimney.
If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket around
the glass. Visit your stove retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and follow the instructions
below for installation.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
21
5.1.3 Door adjustment
In order for your stove to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal with the
firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically making sure to obtain an air tight fit.
Airtightness can be improved with a simple latch mechanism adjustment. To increase the pressure
on the gasket, remove one washer (A). To reduce pressure on the door, when putting a new door
gasket for example, put two washers. To adjust:
1. Unscrew the nut.
2. Remove the door latch and the key path pin (B).
3. Remove or add one washer (A) as needed. Keep the removed washer for future
adjustment.
4. Re-install the key path pin in the key-way and slide the latch along it.
5. Secure with the nut.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket
It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the door gasket
will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can test the condition of
the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper. Test all around the door. If the
paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the gasket.
Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter and
density of the gasket is important to getting a good seal.
Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet. Remove the
old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver. Then use the
screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 1/4” (6 mm) bead of high
temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the middle of the hinge side, press
the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Leave the gasket about 1/2”
long when you cut it and press the end into the groove. Tuck any loose fibres under the gasket and
into the silicone. Close the door and do not use the stove for 24 hours.
5.1.5 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass
It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket when the door gasket is replaced. The gasket is flat,
adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the glass retaining screws (A) and clips (B) then both
metal frames (C) that holds the glass to the door frame (E). Lift out the glass (D) and pull off the old
gasket. This is a good time to clean the glass thoroughly.
The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a section of the
paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the adhesive side up. Stick the
end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the edge of the glass down onto the
gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the gasket. Peel off more of the backing and
rotate the glass and press the next section onto the gasket. Do not stretch the gasket as you place
it. Continue until you get to the start and trim the gasket to length. Now pinch the gasket to the
glass in a U shape, all around the glass. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the glass
carefully in the door. Do not over-tighten the screws. Note that the two main causes of broken door
glass are uneven placement in the door and over-tightening of retaining screws.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
23
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the stove if the glass is
broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Stove
Do not attempt to clean or paint the stove when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces can be wiped
down with a damp cloth. Plated surfaces may be scratched by abrasive cleaners. To maintain the
finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth to clean plated surfaces.
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood stove a brand new look by
repainting it with heat-resistant paint. Before painting, roughen the surface with fine sand paper,
wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of paint. For best results, use the same paint
that was originally used on the stove, which is available in spray cans. See your dealer for details.
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Connector Maintenance
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary
Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney connector and chimney, forming a combustible
deposit called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting system it can ignite when a
hot fire is burned in the stove and a very hot fire can progress to the top of the chimney. Severe
chimney fires can damage even the best chimneys. Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a
thick layer of creosote to form. When you avoid smouldering so the exhaust from the chimney is
mostly clear, creosote builds up more slowly. Your new stove has the right characteristics to help
you to burn clean fires with little or no smoke, resulting in less creosote in the chimney.
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?
It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It is
important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to the new
stove until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms slowly in your
system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
It is recommended to clean thoroughly the chimney system at the end of every heating season.
During summer, the air is damper and with minimal air circulation within the stove or furnace, it can
mix with creosote and/or sooth deposits in the chimney system to form an acid that could
accelerate the corrosion process and induce premature decay of the steel. Corrosion damages are
not covered under warranty. Have your chimney system cleaned by a professional chimney sweep.
Use a plastic or steel brush.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney
fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney
Chimney cleaning can be a difficult and
dangerous job. If you don’t have
experience cleaning chimneys, you might
want to hire a professional chimney sweep
to clean and inspect the system for the first
time. After having seen the cleaning
process, you can decide if it is a job you
would like to take on.
The most common equipment used are
fibreglass rods with threaded fittings and
stiff plastic brushes. The brush is forced up
and down inside the chimney flue to scrub
off the creosote.
The chimney connector assembly should
always be cleaned at the same time the
chimney is cleaned.
CAUTION: Operation of your stove without the baffle may cause unsafe and hazardous
temperature conditions and will void the warranty. NOTE: Before installing the firebrick, check to
ensure that none are broken or damaged in any way. If so, have the damaged ones replaced.
Check the firebrick for damage at least annually and replace any broken or damaged ones with
new ones. Inspection and cleaning of the chimney is facilitated by the removable baffle.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
25
PART B - INSTALLATION
6 Safety Information
6.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings
•
THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE
APPLIANCE ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY OTHER
MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES AND/OR WEB
SITES).
•
MIXING OF APPLIANCE COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR MODIFYING
COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDTIONS. WHERE ANY SUCH
CHANGES ARE PLANNED, STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC. SHOULD BE
CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
•
ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND ANSI
NFPA 211 (USA).
•
CONNECT THIS STOVE ONLY TO A LISTED FACTORY-BUILT CHIMNEY FOR USE WITH
SOLID FUEL OR TO A LINED MASONRY CHIMNEY CONFORMING TO NATIONAL AND
LOCAL BUILDING CODES.
•
IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE ROOM
OR SPACE.
•
DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCTWORK UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.
•
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
•
DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBILE HOME.
6.2 Regulations Covering Stove Installation
When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the Solution 3.4 wood stove is
suitable for use as a freestanding heater in residential installations. The Solution 3.4 wood stove is
not intended for installation in a sleeping room.
In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment and
the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code
requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and
Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70 National Electrical Code are to be followed
in the absence of local code requirements.
This stove must be connected to a chimney complying with the requirements for Type HT
chimneys in the Standard for Factory-Built Chimneys for Residential Type and Building Heating
Appliances, UL 103 HT and ULC S629 or to a code-approved masonry chimney with a flue liner.
26
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
7 Clearances to Combustible Material
The clearances shown in this section have been determined by test according to procedures set
out in safety standards ULC S627 (Canada) and UL1482 (U.S.A.). When the stove is installed so
that its surfaces are at or beyond the minimum clearances specified, combustible surfaces will not
overheat under normal and even abnormal operating conditions.
No part of the stove or flue pipe may be located closer to combustibles than the minimum
clearances given below.
7.1 Location of the certification label
Since the information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the
information published, in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or
web sites) it is important to refer to it in order to have a safe and compliant installation. In addition,
you will find information about your stove (model, serial number, etc.). You can find the certification
label on the back of the stove.
7.2 Clearances to Walls and Ceiling
The clearances to combustible walls may be slightly different in Canada and the U.S.A. and may
also differ depending on whether you use single or double wall flue pipe. Please be sure to choose
the correct clearance for your location and type of flue pipe. See figure Clearances to
combustible materials and floor protection to match each letter to a clearance.
A
B
C
D
E
F
K
L
CLEARANCES
(SINGLE WALL PIPE)
CANADA
USA
19” (485 mm)
19” (485 mm)
19” (485 mm)
19” (485 mm)
11” (280 mm)
11” (280 mm)
23” (585 mm)
23” (585 mm)
30” (765 mm)
30” (765 mm)
23” (585 mm)
23” (585 mm)
48" (1220 mm)
48" (1220 mm)
84" (213 cm)
84" (213 cm)
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
A
B
C
D
E
F
K
L
CLEARANCES
(DOUBLE WALL PIPE)
CANADA
USA
10” (255 mm)
10” (255 mm)
14” (360 mm)
14” (360 mm)
8” (205 mm)
8” (205 mm)
14” (360 mm)
14” (360 mm)
25” (635 mm)
25” (635 mm)
20” (510 mm)
20” (510 mm)
48" (1220 mm)
48" (1220 mm)
84" (213 cm)
84" (213 cm)
27
Clearances to combustible materials and floor protection
28
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
7.3 Floor protector
Your stove has been conceived to prevent the floor from overheating. However, it must be placed
on a noncombustible surface to protect the floor from hot embers that could fall from the stove
while loading or cleaning. There are differences between floor protections in Canada and in the
United States, as it is illustrated in the table below and on the figure Clearances to combustible
materials and floor protection.
FLOOR PROTECTOR*
G
H
I
J
M
N
CANADA
USA
8’’ (203 mm) – Note 1
8’’ (203 mm)
18’’ (457 mm)
From door opening
N/A (USA only)
8’’ (203 mm)
N/A (USA only)
N/A (Canada only)
N/A (Canada only)
16’’ (406 mm)
From door opening
8’’ (203 mm)
N/A (Canada only)
Note 2
*Steel with a minimum thickness of 0.015’’ (0.38 mm) or ceramic tiles sealed together with
grout. No protection is required if the unit is installed on a non-combustible floor (ex: concrete).
Note 1: The floor protection at the back of the stove is limited to the stove’s required clearance
if such clearance is smaller than 8 inches (203 mm).
Note 2: Only required under the horizontal section of the connector. Must exceed each side of
the connector by at least 2 inches (51 mm).
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
29
7.4 Reducing Wall and Ceiling Clearances Safely
It is often desirable to reduce the
minimum installation clearances by
placing the stove closer to walls so
the installation takes up less floor
space. You can safely reduce the
minimum
clearances
by
permanently installing a shield
between the stove and combustible
material. The rules for safe shields
can be complicated, so read them
carefully and follow them exactly.
Note that there may be minor
regional differences in clearance
reduction rules so be sure to check
with your building or fire inspector
before proceeding.
7.4.1 Shield Construction Rules
See figure Clearances for shield construction to match each letter to a clearance.
- Adhesives used in shield construction must not ignite or lose adhesive qualities at
temperatures likely to be encountered.
- Mounting hardware which extends from the shield surface into combustibles may be used only
at the edges of the shield.
- Mounting hardware must allow full vertical ventilation.
A Minimum clearance between the appliance top and an unshielded combustible ceiling:
1346 mm (53 in.).
B Shield extension above appliance: 500 mm (20 in.).
C Minimum space behind shield: 25 mm (1 in.). In Canada 21 mm (7/8 in).
D Clearance along the bottom of shield: minimum: 25 mm (1 in.) and maximum: 75 mm (3 in.).
E Minimum clearance along the top of shield at ceiling: 75 mm (3 in.).
F Mounting hardware must not be located closer than 200 mm (8 in.) from the vertical centre line
of the appliance.
G Edge clearance for ceiling shields to side and back walls: 75 mm (3 in.).
H Shield extension beyond each side of appliance: 450 mm (18 in.).
30
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Clearances for shield construction
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
31
7.4.2 Table of Clearance Reduction Percentages
Clearances may be reduced by these
percentages
Sides
and rear %
Type of shield
Top %
(ceiling)
Can/USA
(%)
USA
min.
Can/USA
(%)
USA
min.
67
12 po
50
18 po
Ceramic tiles, or equivalent noncombustible
material,
on
noncombustible board spaced out at least
25 mm (1 in)* by non-combustible
spacers
50
18 po
33
24 po
Ceramic tiles, or equivalent noncombustible
material,
on
noncombustible board, with a minimum of
24 gauge (0.61 mm) sheet metal
backing spaced out at least 25 mm
(1 in)* by non-combustible spacers
67
12 po
50
24 po
50
18 po
N/A
N/A
67
12 po
N/A
N/A
Sheet metal, a minimum of 24 gauge
(0.61 mm) in thickness , spaced out at
least
25 mm
(1 in)*
by
noncombustible spacers
Brick, spaced out at least 25 mm
(1 in)* by non-combustible spacers
Brick, with a minimum of 24 gauge
(0.61 mm) sheet metal backing,
spaced out at least 25 mm (1 in)* by
non-combustible spacers
* In Canada this space can be 21 mm (7/8 in)
32
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
8 The Venting System
8.1 General
The venting system, made up of the chimney and the connecting pipe between the stove and the
chimney, acts as the engine that drives your wood heating system. Even the best stove will not
function safely and efficiently as intended if it is not connected to a suitable chimney.
The heat in the flue gases that pass from the stove and chimney connector into the chimney is not
waste heat. This heat is what the chimney uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air,
keeps smoke inside the stove and safely vents exhaust to outside. You can think of heat in the flue
gas as the fuel the chimney uses to make draft.
8.2 Suitable Chimneys
Your wood stove will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6-inch
diameter chimney flue system. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at least 5 inches
(Canada only) or no more than 7 inches is permitted, if it allows the proper venting of combustion
gases and that such application is verified and authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the
diameter of the flue should be 6 inches.
To be suitable, a factory-built metal
chimney must comply with UL 103 HT
(U.S.A.) or ULC S629 (Canada).
8.2.1 Factory-built Metal Chimneys
These are sometimes referred to as ‘high
temp’ chimneys because they have the
special characteristics to withstand the
temperatures that can be created by wood
burning stoves. Factory-built chimneys are
tested as a system with all the necessary
components
for
installation.
The
instructions provided with the chimney by
its manufacturer are the only reliable
source of installation guidelines. To be
safe and effective, the chimney must be
installed exactly in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions. Use only
components intended for the brand and
model of chimney you are using. Never
substitute parts from other chimney
brands
or
fabricate
your
own
components. The chimney must be a
type suitable for solid fuel.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
33
8.2.2 Masonry Chimneys
The stove may also be connected to a
masonry chimney, provided the chimney
complies with the construction rules found
in the building code enforced locally. The
chimney must have either a clay liner or a
suitably listed stainless steel liner. If the
masonry chimney has a square or
rectangular liner that is larger in cross
sectional area than a round 6” flue, it
should be relined with a suitably listed 6”
stainless steel liner. Do not downsize the
flue to less than 6” unless the venting
system is straight and exceeds 25 feet in
height.
When
passing
through
a
combustible wall, the use of an insulated
listed thimble is required.
8.3 Minimum Chimney Height
The top of the chimney should be tall
enough to be above the air
turbulence caused when wind blows
against the house and its roof. The
chimney must extend at least 1 m (3
ft.) above the highest point of contact
with the roof, and at least 60 cm (2
ft.) higher than any roof line or
obstacle within a horizontal distance
of 3 m (10 ft.).
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
8.4 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House
Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must have the
right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold backdrafting when there is no fire in
the stove, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is opened for loading. There
are two guidelines to follow. First, the chimney should be installed up through the heated space of
the house, not out and up an outside wall. Second, the chimney should penetrate the top of the
building at or near the highest heated space.
8.4.1 Why inside chimneys are preferred
Venting systems that rise straight up from the stove flue collar provide the best performance.
Chimneys that rise inside the warm space of the house tend to provide a small amount of draft
even when there is no fire burning. This means that when you light a fire, the initial smoke goes up
the chimney and strong draft builds quickly as the chimney flue warms up. Although they are
common in North America, chimneys that exit a house wall and run up outside can cause
problems.
Good System Design
Inside chimneys are preferred because even when
no fire is burning, there is normally upward flow in
the system.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Inferior System Design
Outside chimneys are a problem because
when no fire burns they will go into cold
backdraft if the stove is installed low in the
house.
35
8.4.2 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space
When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This tendency of
warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack effect’, it produces a
slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a slightly positive pressure
zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater connected to a chimney that is shorter
than the warm space inside the house, the slight negative pressure low in the house will compete
against the desired upward flow in the chimney.
There are two reasons why the
chimney in the house at right will cold
backdraft when it is cold outside and
there is no fire burning in the stove.
First, the chimney runs up the outside
of the house, so the air in it is colder
and denser than the warm air in the
house. And second, the chimney is
shorter than the heated space of the
house,
meaning
the
negative
pressure low in the house will pull
outside air down the chimney,
through the stove and into the room.
Even the finest stove will not work
well when connected to this chimney.
36
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
8.5 Supply of Combustion Air
In Canada, wood stoves are not required to have a supply of combustion air from outdoors (except
in mobile homes) because research has shown that these supplies do not give protection against
house depressurization and may fail to supply combustion air during windy weather. However, to
protect against the risk of smoke spillage due to house depressurization, a carbon monoxide
(CO) detector/alarm is required in the room where the stove is installed. The CO detector will
provide warning if for any reason the wood stove fails to function correctly.
8.5.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses
The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for your wood stove is from the room in
which it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is
not affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almost
all tightly-sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of air
needed by the stove. The only case in which the wood stove may not have adequate access to
combustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)
causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors.
Some jurisdictions in the United States require that wood stoves have a supply of combustion air
from outdoors. If you do install an air supply through the wall of the house, be aware that its
pressure can be affected during windy weather. If you notice changes in wood stove performance
in windy weather, and in particular if smoke puffs from the stove, you should disconnect the
outdoor air duct from the stove and remove the duct. In some windy conditions, negative pressure
at the duct weatherhood outside the house wall may draw hot exhaust gases from the stove
backwards through the duct to outdoors. Check the outdoor air duct for soot deposits when the full
system is cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
8.6 Installing the Chimney Connector
The chimney connector is the single or double wall pipe installed between the stove flue collar and
the chimney breech. Single wall pipe components are available from most hardware and building
supply stores. These components are not usually tested to a particular standard and certified as
compliant. Therefore, a list of rules found in solid fuel installation codes apply to the installation of
single wall pipe.
Double wall chimney connectors are tested and certified. The rules for double wall pipe are found
in the manufacturer’s installation instructions. These rules will be very different than those for
single wall.
8.6.1 Installation of Single Wall Chimney Connector
The chimney connector assembly has been called ‘the weak link’ in the safety of wood heating
systems because failure to install the connector properly (which has been common in the past) can
result in house fires.
The best flue pipe assembly is one that rises straight up from the stove to the base of the chimney
with no elbows. Straight assemblies are less likely to cause problems like smoke roll-out when the
door is opened for loading. They are also more stable and easier to maintain than assemblies with
elbows. Horizontal runs of flue pipe should be avoided where possible because they reduce
chimney draft.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
37
Use 45 degree elbows where possible, instead of 90 degree elbows.
38
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
The rules below are based on those found in the CSA B365 installation code. Please carefully
follow these installation instruction rules, or those enforced where you live.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Maximum overall length of straight pipe: 3 m (10 ft.) including elbows.
Minimum clearance from combustible material: 450 mm (18 in.). The minimum clearance may
be reduced by 50 percent to 225 mm (9 in.) if suitable shielding is installed either on the pipe or
on the combustible surface.
The assembly should be as short and direct as possible between the stove and chimney. The
use of two 45 degree elbows is often preferable to a single 90 degree elbow because less
turbulence is created in the exhaust flow and they result in less horizontal run.
Maximum number of 90-degree elbows: 2.
Maximum unsupported horizontal length: 1 m (3 feet).
Galvanized flue pipes must not be used because the coatings vaporize at high temperatures
and release dangerous gases. Use black painted flue pipes.
Flue pipes must be at least 24 gauge in thickness.
Flue pipe joints should overlap 30 mm (1 1/4 in.)
Each joint in the assembly must be fastened with at least three screws.
The assembly must have allowance for expansion: elbows in assemblies allow for expansion;
straight assemblies should include an inspection wrap with one end unfastened, or a telescopic
section.
Minimum upward slope towards the chimney: 20 mm/m (1/4 in/ft.).
One end of the assembly must be securely fastened to the flue collar with 3 sheet metal screws
and the other end securely fastened to the chimney.
There must be provision for cleaning of the pipes, either through a clean out or by removal of
the pipe assembly. Removal of the assembly should not require that the stove be moved.
The male ends of the sections must be oriented towards the appliance so that falling dust and
condensation stay inside the pipe.
A flue pipe must never pass through a combustible floor or ceiling or through an attic, roof
space, closet or concealed space.
Where passage through a wall or partition of combustible construction is desired, the
installation shall conform to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-Burning
Appliances and Equipment.
The ideal flue pipe assembly is one that rises straight up from the appliance flue collar and directly
into the chimney with no elbows. A straight up connector assembly needs either a telescopic length
or an inspection wrap (pipe coupler) to allow it to be assembled and disassembled without moving
the stove.
A straight flue pipe assembly offers the least restriction to gas flow and results in stronger draft.
Straight assemblies also need less maintenance because there are no corners to collect creosote.
The chimney connector must be in good condition.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
39
Appendix 1: Installing the Optional Door Overlay
In order to complete the assembly of your wood stove, you need to install the door overlay. See
figure below for installation instructions:
Position the overlay (A) on the door
frame and secure it from the inside of
the door using the 4 included screws
(B).
To facilitate the installation, do not
tighten the screws until they are all
installed.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the
glass or any other component to install
the overlay
40
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 2: Installing Trims
Your freestanding Enerzone wood stove is equipped with decorative u-shaped trims. See
installation instructions below:
1- Remove the 6 screws (A) that secure both
decorative side panels (B).
2- Slide the panels towards the front to release
them from the front brackets.
3- Choose between the gold or nickel “U”
shaped decorative trims (C) and remove the
protection film before installation.
4- Align the decorative trims with the top and
bottom slots of the front edge of the panels.
Then push the decorative trims to clip them
into place.
5- Slide both panels (B) into the front brackets
and reinstall using the screws (A) removed
in step 1.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
41
Appendix 3: Installation and Use of Air Circulation Fan and
Thermodisc
A fan is installed on the back of the stove to increase the flow of air past heat exchange surfaces
and to help circulate warm air in the room. When used regularly, the fan can provide a small
increase in efficiency, up to 2 percent. However, the use of a fan should not be used as a way to
gain more output from a stove that is undersized for the space it is intended to heat.
The fan has a rheostat, see the illustration on the right to identify the
different adjustment positions; either from high (HI) to low (LO) or
closed (OFF).
When using the fan, allow the stove to reach operating temperature (approximately one hour),
before turning it on. The increased airflow from the fan cools the firebox and could affect the startup combustion efficiency if the fan is turned on too early. The thermodisc enables the blower to
start or stop automatically when the stove is hot or too cold. The thermodisc part number is
AC02055 for a quick connect model. Installation instructions are supplied with the thermodisc.
42
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
CAUTION: ENSURE THAT THE FAN’S POWER CORD IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH ANY
SURFACE OF THE STOVE TO PREVENT ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE DAMAGE. DO NOT
RUN THE POWER CORD BENEATH THE STOVE.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
43
Appendix 4: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle
1- Remove the 4 bricks on the left hand
side of the combustion chamber.
2- Starting with the rear tube, lean and
insert the right end of the secondary air
tube into the rear right channel hole.
Then lift and insert the left end of the
tube into the rear left channel.
3- Align the notch in the left end of the tube
with the left air channel hole. Secure
the tube in the channel hole using a
cotter pin.
4- Repeat step 1 and 2 for the other
secondary air tubes.
5- To remove the tubes use the above
steps in reverse order.
44
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Note that secondary air tubes (A) can be replaced without removing the baffle board (B).
Important Notes:
The air tubes are identified for placement as follows:
Model
Type of tube
Solution 3.4
Front ► 28 holes of 0.203"
Middle► 28 holes of 0.172’’
Rear ► 28 holes of 0.172’’
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
45
Baffle installation and brick layout
All firebricks, baffles and ceramic wool insulation must be properly in place for optimum burning
efficiency. Have any damaged firebrick, baffle and or insulation replaced.
Step 1:
Start by taking out the four firebricks on the left hand side of the firebox then remove the cotter pins
and the secondary air tubes from the stove making sure to identify them so they can be reinstalled
in the same location.
46
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Step 2:
Put a piece of ceramic wool insulation on top of the first baffle the notch facing down (as per the
right hand side image), insert the two parts into the stove and over the right and left secondary air
channel. Then push the baffle and its insulation against the firebox’s back wall.
Step 3:
Repeat step 2 for the second baffle and insulation.
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
47
Step 4:
Reinstall the secondary air tubes and cotter pins in their original location and put the four left hand
side firebricks back into place.
48
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 5: Exploded Diagram and Parts List
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
49
IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement parts for
your stove, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve the right to
change parts due to technology upgrade or availability. Contact an authorized dealer to obtain any
of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved parts can result in poor
performance and safety hazards.
#
Item
Description
Qty
1
AC01254
NICKEL CAST IRON DOOR OVERLAY
1
1
AC01250
BLACK CAST IRON DOOR OVERLAY
1
1
AC01252
GOLD CAST IRON DOOR OVERLAY
1
2
30123
SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/8'' PAN QUADREX ZINC
6
3
AC07868
1/2 " BLACK COIL HANDLE
1
4
SE53580
BLACK CAST IRON DOOR WITH GASKET
1
5
AC06000
SILICONE AND 1/2" x 8' BLACK GASKET REPLACEMENT KIT (DOOR)
1
6
AC09170
REMPLACEMENT HANDLE AND LATCH KIT
1
7
30205
ZINC WASHER ID 13/32" X OD 13/16"
2
8
30533
LATCH KEY PATH PIN
1
9
30033
STEEL DOOR LATCH
1
10
30224
LOCKNUT 3/8"-16 HEX
1
11
SE53582
REPLACEMENT GLASS WITH GASKET 9 13/16" X 17 3/32"
1
12
AC06400
BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET KIT (6')
2
13
PL53583
GLASS RETAINER FRAME
2
14
SE53585
GLASS RETAINER KIT WITH SCREWS (12 PER KIT)
1
15
99999
BUILD TO ORDER
1
16
SE45285
INTRUCTION MANUAL KIT SOLUTION 3.4
1
17
AC05959
METALLIC BLACK STOVE PAINT-342G AEROSOL
1
18
28062
BLACK DRAWER HANDLE 3 25/32"
1
19
30108
MECHANICAL SCREW M4 X 4MM PAN PHILLIPS ZINC
2
20
SE53537
ASH DRAWER PEDESTAL VERSION
1
21
99999
BUILD TO ORDER
1
22
30100
BLACK HEX NUT 1/4 - 20
4
23
30096
1/4-20 X 3/4" ZINC CARRIAGE BOLT
4
24
PL53554
NICKEL "U" SHAPED SIDE DECORATIVE ACCENT
4
24
PL53554G
BRASS "U" SHAPED SIDE DECORATIVE ACCENT
4
25
PL57007
RIGHT SIDE DECORATIVE PANEL
1
26
99999
BUILD TO ORDER
1
27
SE57015
TOP AIR MATE
1
28
PL57006
LEFT SIDE DECORATIVE PANEL
1
29
AC07866
1/4 " BLACK COIL HANDLE
1
30
30506
SCREW PAN TORX TYPE F 1/4-20 X 1" BLACK
2
31
SE57030
FRONT DECORATIVE LOUVERS
1
32
30223
5/16"-18 HEX LOCK NUT
3
50
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
#
Item
Description
33
SE57040
AIR CONTROL DAMPER
1
34
AC03095
130 CFM BLOWER WITH VARIABLE SPEED CONTROL
1
35
60013
POWER CORD 96" X 18-3 type SJT
1
36
44070
CROSSFLOW BLOWER 115V-60Hz-56W (B)
1
37
44080
RHEOSTAT WITH NUT
1
38
44087
RHEOSTAT NUT
1
39
44085
RHEOSTAT KNOB
1
40
AC02055
QUICK CONNECT THERMODISC
1
41
24096
ROUND CAST IRON ASH PLUG
1
42
PL36048
4" X 4" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
1
43
29020
4 1/2'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD
17
44
29005
6" X 8 1/4" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD
6
45
PL36029
5 7/8" X 6" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
1
46
PL07712
REAR INSULATION
2
47
30068
STAINLESS STEEL COTTER PIN 1/8" X 1 1/2"
3
48
PL07718-02
FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE NEUTRAL
1
49
PL07718-01
MIDDLE SECONDARY AIR TUBE RED
1
50
PL07718-03
REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE YELLOW
1
51
7725-02
C-CAST BAFFLE 8 7/16'' X 24''
2
52
PL07711
BAFFLE INSULATION 8 1/2'' X 24'' X 1/2''
2
53
PL34026
BAFFLE INSULATION WEIGHT
2
Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
Qty
51
ENERZONE LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original consumer purchaser and is not transferable.
This warranty covers brand new products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since
shipment from factory. Products covered under this warranty must have been manufactured after the revision
date indicated below. Proof of purchase (dated bill of sale), model name and serial number must be supplied
when making any warranty claim to your ENERZONE dealer.
This warranty applies to normal residential use only. Damages caused by misuse, abuse, improper
installation, lack of maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident during transportation, power
failures, downdrafts, or venting problems are not covered by this warranty.
This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage
caused by the use of unauthorized parts or others than original parts void this warranty. An authorized
qualified technician must perform the installation in accordance with the instructions supplied with this
product and all local and national building codes. Any service call related to an improper installation is not
covered by this warranty.
The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to
support the claim. Returned products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. If a
product is found to be defective, the manufacturer will repair or replace such defect. Transportation fees to
ship the product back to the purchaser will be paid by the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the
warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile by an authorized qualified technician requires the prior
approval of the manufacturer. Labour cost and repair work to the account of the manufacturer are based on
predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the wholesale price of the replacement part. All parts and
labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to the table below.
The manufacturer at its discretion may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and
investigation of the defect. The manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect
to this warranty by refunding the wholesale price of any warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer
shall in no event be responsible for any special, indirect, consequential damages of any nature, which are in
excess of the original purchase price of the product. A one-time replacement limit applies to all parts
st
benefiting from a lifetime coverage. This warranty applies to products purchased after October 1 , 2011.
WARRANTY APPLICATION
PARTS
LABOUR
DESCRIPTION
Combustion chamber (welds only), castings, convector air-mate,
ceramic glass (thermal breakage only*), and secondary air tubes*.
Plating* (defective manufacture) – subject to limitations above.
Stainless steel firebox components, surrounds and heat shields, ash
drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum extrusions), C-Cast
baffle*, and vermiculite baffle*.
Carbon steel firebox components, glass retainers, and handle
assembly.
Blowers, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and other controls.
Paint (peeling), gaskets, insulation, firebrick, and ceramic fibre
blankets.
*Pictures required
Lifetime
4 years
Lifetime
n/a
5 years
3 years
3 years
2 years
2 years
1 year
1 year
n/a
Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your ENERZONE dealer. Prior to your call
make sure you have the following information necessary to your warranty claim treatment:
•
•
Your name, address and telephone
number;
Bill of sale and dealer’s name;
•
•
Serial number and model name as indicated on the
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;
Nature of the defect and any relevant information.
Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain from your
ENERZONE dealer an Authorization Number. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without
authorization will be refused automatically and returned to sender.
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Solution 3.4 Installation and Operation Manual
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