Whirlpool ice maker Installation guide
Whirlpool Automatic Ice Maker: Say goodbye to running out of ice with this convenient ice maker. It effortlessly creates fresh, clean ice cubes that are perfect for your favorite drinks, parties, or everyday use. With its compact design, it fits seamlessly into your kitchen or bar area, providing a steady supply of ice without taking up too much space. Enjoy the convenience of having a reliable source of ice whenever you need it, without the hassle of buying and storing bags of ice.
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Home Appliances
G
Installation
U I D E
Table of Contents
(complete) ................... 2
Requesting Assistance
or Service ....................... 2
Important Information ... 3
Before You Begin .......... 4
Installing the
Ice Maker ........................ 6
Installing the
Water Line .................... 16
Final Installation .......... 22
Starting the
Ice Maker ...................... 24
Troubleshooting .......... 25
PART NO. 2181913 Rev. A
MODULAR ICE MAKER KIT
www.whirlpool.com
2
Table of
Contents
Page
Requesting Assistance or Service ........... 2
Important Information .............................. 3
Before You Begin ....................................... 4
Tools ........................................................ 4
Installation notes ...................................... 4
Important safety instructions .................... 4
Components ............................................ 5
Installing the Ice Maker .............................. 6
Making preparations ................................ 6
Side-by-side models ................................ 7
Top/bottom freezer models ...................... 9
Installing the tubing clips ....................... 10
Preparing the water valve tubing
(for bottom freezers only)....................... 11
Mounting the water valve ....................... 12
Connecting the water valve tubing......... 13
Mounting the ice maker ......................... 14
Page
Routing the copper tubing ..................... 17
Installing the shut-off valve .................... 18
Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve ............................... 19
Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve................................... 20
Turning the water on .............................. 21
Final Installation ....................................... 22
Installing the access cover and forming the copper tubing ...................... 22
Connecting the power/ leveling the unit ...................................... 23
Starting the Ice Maker .............................. 24
Troubleshooting ....................................... 25
Operational notes .................................. 25
Troubleshooting chart ............................ 25
The modular ice maker service sheet .... 26
Ice maker replacement parts list ............ 27
Requesting
Assistance or
Service
If you need assistance, contact your dealer, or call the Whirlpool Consumer Assistance
Center toll-free, 1-800-253-1301, 24 hours a day.
Important Information
The following information is used throughout this Installation Guide. Read it carefully so you are familiar with it.
Your safety and the safety of others are very important.
We have provided many important safety messages in this manual and on your appliance. Always read and obey all safety messages.
This is the safety alert symbol.
This symbol alerts you to potential hazards that can kill or hurt you and others.
All safety messages will follow the safety alert symbol and either the word “DANGER” or “WARNING.” These words mean:
DANGER
You can be killed or seriously injured if you don’t immediately follow instructions.
WARNING
You can be killed or seriously injured if you don’t follow instructions.
All safety messages will tell you what the potential hazard is, tell you how to reduce the chance of injury, and tell you what can happen if the instructions are not followed.
• This Installation Guide gives you complete instructions on how to install the Ice Maker
Kit in your refrigerator-freezer and connect a water line to it. Please read the guide carefully and follow the instructions exactly as described. Also, make sure that you observe all of the “safety” instructions.
• This kit is designed so that almost anyone can install it; however, a certain amount of mechanical ability is required.
• Before you start to install your Ice Maker
Kit, you will have to purchase a copper tubing kit that contains a “Regular Valve and Clamp Assembly” (for refrigerators with an automatic ice maker, or self-filling trays).
The kit contains all of the hardware necessary to connect your ice maker to the water supply. You can purchase one at most hardware or plumbing supply stores.
• DO NOT USE PIERCING-TYPE, OR 3 ⁄
16
"
SHUT-OFF VALVES. They reduce the flow of water to the ice maker, and are easily clogged.
• DO NOT USE POLYETHYLENE TUBING to connect the ice maker to the water line.
Use only 1 ⁄
4
" (O.D.) copper tubing.
CUSTOMER INSTALLATION IS NOT
WARRANTED BY THE REFRIGERATOR
OR ICE MAKER MANUFACTURER.
3
Before You Begin
Tools
You will need these tools to install your kit.
1. Regular screwdriver
2. Phillips screwdriver
3.
7 ⁄
16
" and 1 ⁄
2
" open-end wrenches (or an adjustable wrench)
4. Pliers
5.
1 ⁄
4
" nut driver
6. Hand drill with 1 ⁄
4
" drill bit
7. Small hand level (optional)
8. Small 3 ⁄
4
-round file
9. Tubing cutter
10. Center punch
11. Hammer
12. Scissors
13. Ruler
14. Step stool (optional)
Installation notes
1. Follow the instructions carefully. Read through the entire step so that you understand it before you perform it.
2. The illustrations in this Installation Guide are meant to clarify the installation steps you need to perform. For each set of steps shown, refer to the diagram immediately beside or below the text for clarification.
Some illustrations also contain “DETAILS.”
DETAILS are contained in bubbles alongside the larger illustration. A DETAIL shows a close-up illustration of a certain portion of a diagram or an illustration of a specific step you are to perform. DETAILS are labeled A, B, or C and are clearly referenced in each step.
3. When you are instructed to install a part, position the part as shown in the illustration.
4
Important safety instructions
WARNING
To minimize possible shock hazard, the cord must be plugged into a mating 3-prong ground-type outlet, grounded in accordance with local codes and ordinances. If a mating outlet is not available, it is the personal responsibility and obligation of the customer to have the properly grounded outlet installed by a qualified electrician.
Electrical Shock Hazard
Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Do not remove ground prong.
Do not use an adapter.
Do not use an extension cord.
Failure to follow these instructions can result in death, fire, or electrical shock.
3-prong ground-type wall outlet
3-prong ground plug
If you intend to use power tools, such as an electric drill, during the installation, make sure that the AC receptacle is properly grounded in accordance with the National Electrical
Code (ANSI/NFPA 70) and all local codes and ordinances.
Power supply cord
Ground plug
Correct power receptacle and plug configuration
B E F O R E Y O U B E G I N
Components
Remove the contents from the shipping carton and set them on a table where they can be easily identified and located. Check all of the components in the kit against the following list to help you become familiar with them. When you identify a component, place a check mark ( 3) after it. The KEY numbers correspond to the “Component Illustrations.”
IMPORTANT: When you remove the water valve and flexible tubing from the styrofoam packing insert, do not remove the tubing from the valve. It has been factory-installed and leak-tested. Do not disturb the compression nut that connects the tubing to the valve, or the valve may leak after you connect it to the water supply.
Do not discard any of the packing material until you account for all of the components. If you need to order a replacement part for the
Ice Maker, a replacement parts list is provided on page 27.
KEY QTY. DESCRIPTION
7
8
5
6
3
4
1
2
1 Ice maker
1 Ice bucket
1 Water valve w/tubing
1 Fill tube
1 Gasket
1 Short extension tube
1 Long extension tube*
2 Ice maker clips*
9 2 Tubing clips
10 1 Metal water tube insert
11 1 Water valve tubing clamp
12 4 1 ⁄
2
" hex-head sheet-metal screws
13 2 1 ⁄
2
" hex-head machine screws
14 2 3 ⁄
4
" hex-head sheet-metal screws
* For installation in Side-By-Side Models only.
➀
➂
COMPONENT ILLUSTRATIONS
➃
➉
➁
➄
➅
➆
11
12
➇
➈
14
13
5
6
Installing the Ice Maker
Making preparations
Refer to the illustration below for the following steps.
1. Carefully pull the refrigerator away from the wall so that you can easily access the rear panel.
WARNING
Electrical Shock Hazard
Disconnect power before installing ice maker.
Failure to do so could result in death or electrical shock.
IMPORTANT: If you have a side-by-side model refrigerator-freezer, be careful when you open the freezer door to work inside that you do not force the door against the stop at the bottom of the door. If you bend the stop, the door will not close properly.
2. On appliances with a top or a bottom freezer, open the freezer door and remove all of the food items from inside the freezer compartment.
For side-by-side units, you should only have to remove food items from the top half of the freezer section. This should give you enough room to access the areas to install the ice maker.
Rear wall
3. On an appliance with a bottom freezer, remove the slide-out basket, the ice cube trays, and the wire ice cube holder (if necessary, refer to your “Use and Care
Guide” for the procedure). Set these items aside.
On top-mount models without a full-width freezer shelf, remove the ice tray shelf.
Place the shelf aside, as you will use it later to support the ice bucket.
If you have a side-by-side model refrigerator, proceed to “Side-by-side models” on page 7. If you have a refrigerator with a top or a bottom freezer, proceed to “Top/bottom freezer models” on page 9.
NOTE: The work area for all three model refrigerator-freezers is shown in DETAIL A below.
Detail left side of freezer compartment
You will be working in these areas
Rear wall Rear wall
Power cord plug and receptacle
Power cord plug and receptacle
Power cord plug and receptacle
Side-by-side model Top freezer model Bottom freezer model
Work areas on the three model refrigerator-freezers
I N S T A L L I N G T H E I C E M A K E R
Side-by-side models
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps. You will be working inside the freezer compartment.
Hole
Insert pin into hole
Pin
Hole cover
1. Remove the phillips screw from the ice maker wiring cover and remove the cover.
Wiring harness
Slot
Phillips screw
Tab
Insert tab into slot 2. Refer to DETAIL A, and with a pair of pliers, break away the tabs from the wiring cover and discard them.
DETAIL A
Wiring cover
3. Insert the blade of a small screwdriver under the edge of the round hole plug for the fill tube, (located at the back of the freezer liner), and pry it out. You can discard the plug.
Break off and discard
Ice maker wiring cover
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps. You will be working on the outside at the rear of the cabinet.
1. In the upper right corner of the cabinet, peel off the label that is over the fill tube hole.
2. Pull the foam insert out of the fill tube hole and discard it.
Remove this label for Ice Maker installation
Foam insert
Label
Removing the label and foam plug
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.
1. Locate the fill tube and the round foam gasket from the ice maker kit (the gasket may already be installed on the fill tube). If not already done, slide the gasket over the end of the fill tube.
2. Insert the fill tube through the hole in the rear of the refrigerator with the spout facing down, and secure it with two 1 ⁄
2
" hex-head sheet-metal screws.
1 ⁄
2
" hex-head sheet-metal screws
Spout
Fill tube
Foam gasket
Installing the fill tube/gasket
7
Refer to the side diagram for the following step. You will be working inside the freezer compartment.
1. Install the plastic extension by sliding it over the fill tube as far as it will go.
Slot
Wiring harness
Long fill tube extension
Fill tube
Refer back to the side diagram for the following step.
2. Position the wiring harness so that it is through the slot in the wiring cover. Insert the tab at the back of the wiring cover into the freezer liner slot. Press the pin on the side of the wiring cover into the hole in the side of the freezer liner so it locks into place. Secure the wiring cover with the phillips screw you removed earlier.
Proceed to “Installing the tubing clips” on page 10.
Installing the long fill tube extension
Hole
Insert pin into hole
Pin
Wiring harness
Hole cover
Slot Phillips screw
Tab
Insert tab into slot
Wiring cover
Break off and discard
Replacing the ice maker wiring cover
8
Top/bottom freezer models
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.
1. On models with a open-top ice maker
fill tube and wiring cover, remove the screw from the ice maker wiring cover.
Squeeze top and bottom to loosen snaps.
Remove and discard ice maker wiring cover.
On models with a flat cover, remove the screw from the ice maker wiring cover.
Unhook the right side tab from the edge of the back cover. Remove ice maker wiring cover.
Look at the back side of the flat wiring cover and note the grooved lines. Use a pair of pliers and bend the areas inside the grooved lines back and forth until they break away from the wiring cover.
Mounting hole
Hex screw
Mounting hole
Snap
Open top fill tube
Snaps
Cover
Removing wiring cover with open-top fill tube
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.
2. Pull the 4-wire ice maker harness out from behind the freezer’s back cover as far as possible, and hang it over the edge of the cutout. Do not remove any other wiring from the cutout.
3. Slide the plastic fill tube extension over the end of the fill tube as far as it will go
(see DETAIL A). Note: The plastic fill tube extension is not required for models with open-top fill tube.
4. Flat wiring cover: Install the wiring cover over the fill tube with the wiring harness through the slot. Hook the tab in the side of the wiring cover into the slot in the back cover of the freezer, and secure the cover with the screw you removed earlier (see
DETAIL B).
Hex screw
Break off and discard.
Removing the flat wiring cover
DETAIL B
DETAIL A
Mounting hole
Tab
Wiring cover
Edge of cover
Fill tube
Wiring harness
Hex screw
Short fill tube extension
Route harness through slot and fill tube through hole
Installing the short fill tube extension and reinstalling the wiring cover
9
Tab
Installing the tubing clips
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.
1. Remove the seven hex-head screws from the rear access cover, then remove the cover and set it aside.
NOTE: If you have a later unit with a metal panel, (see DETAIL A), remove the hexhead screw from the access cover. Discard the cover and its screw. Do not remove the
7 hex-head screws from the larger rear access cover.
2. Peel the backing from the adhesive sides of the tubing clips. Press the clips against the back of the cabinet in the right channel at the approximate locations shown in DETAIL
B. Center the clips between the fill tube (an alternate fill tube design is shown in
DETAIL C) and the top of the access opening.
If you have a bottom freezer, proceed to page
11. If you have a side-by-side (SXS) or a top freezer unit, proceed to page 12.
DETAIL C
Alternate fill tube design
Fill tube for bottom freezer models
Remove 7 hexhead screws from rear access cover
Metal panel
Access cover
DETAIL A
Remove hexhead screw from rear access cover
Installing the tubing clips
Fill tube for top and SXS freezers only
Right channel
DETAIL B
Tubing clip
Top and SXS freezers
Tubing clip
Bottom freezers
10
Preparing the water valve tubing
(for bottom freezers only)
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.
CUT TUBING
HERE
1. Untape the coiled flexible tubing coming from the water valve and straighten it.
2. Starting at the top of the compression nut on the water valve, measure the tubing for
30 ", and mark the location on the tubing with a pen.
3. Use a pair of scissors or a hobby knife, and make an even cut across the water valve tubing at the 30 " mark you made in the previous step. Discard the excess tubing.
30"
MAKE AN
EVEN CUT
ACROSS
TOP
Compression nut
Water valve
Preparing the water valve tubing
(for bottom freezers only)
11
Mounting the water valve
Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.
1. Locate the 2-pin water valve solenoid connector (with the brown and two white wires) that is taped to the main wiring harness at the lower right corner of the rear access (see DETAIL A).
2. Refer to DETAIL B and insert the 2-pin connector over the water valve solenoid terminals as far as possible (if the harness is not long enough, break the tape holding it to the main harness). You can position the connector with the wires at either terminal.
3. Refer to DETAIL B and mount the water valve to the mounting holes in the cabinet frame with two 1 ⁄
2
" hex-head machine screws. Make sure that you tighten these two screws securely.
DETAIL A
2-pin connector
Brown
(2) White
DETAIL B
12
Mounting the water valve
2-pin connector
Water valve
1 ⁄
2
" hex-head machine screws
Connecting the water valve tubing
Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.
1. Refer to the inset in DETAIL A and pull the plastic insert out of the fill tube spout and discard it.
4. Refer to DETAIL B, and slide the end of the tubing into the end of the fill tube spout as far as it will go (if the tubing does not reach, pull as much as necessary up through the clips), then tighten the tubing clamp screw as much as possible. Pull on the tubing to make sure that it is secure. If it slides out of the spout, push it back in, and tighten the clamp screw further until the tubing is secure.
2. Locate the water valve tubing clamp (from the ice maker kit), and note that one of the flanges is made for a threaded screw and the other side has a round hole. Position this clamp with the round hole side facing up, and slide it over the end of the spout
(see DETAILS A and B). Thread a 1 ⁄
2
" hexhead sheet metal screw into the clamp with your fingers as far as possible. You will tighten the screw later.
3. Refer to DETAIL A, and position the metal water tube insert as shown, then press it all the way into the water valve tubing.
5. Press the tubing into the two clips (see
DETAIL C) you installed earlier on the back of the cabinet. You will connect the free end of the tubing later.
6. Pull any excess tubing near the fill tube down through the two clamps so it forms a straight line with a loop at the bottom of the water valve.
DETAIL B
Insert end of tubing into this fill tube (for top/
SXS freezers)
Top/SXS freezers Slide clamp over spout
Fill tube spout
Fill tube
Tighten screw on spout as much as possible
Insert tubing into spout as far as possible
Water valve tubing
DETAIL A
Insert end of tubing into this fill tube (for bottom freezers)
Tubing clip
DETAIL C
Bottom freezers
Remove plastic insert
INSET
Fill tube spout
Water valve tubing clamp
1 ⁄
2
" hex-head sheet-metal screw
Water tube insert
Water valve tubing
Connecting the water valve tubing to the fill tube
13
Mounting the ice maker
Refer to the side diagram for the following step.
1. Look at the ice maker’s fill cup and note that the rear of the cup has a “U” shaped groove (either of the sides may also be grooved). Use your fingers, (or a pair of pliers, if it is easier), and remove only the rear “knock-out” from the cup. Bend the area back and forth inside the groove until it breaks free. The fill tube will fit through this cutout when you install the ice maker.
Remove knock-out
Fill cup at rear of ice maker
Removing the knock-out
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.
1. Remove and discard the blank connector from the wiring harness. To remove it, lift the locking arm on the side of the blank connector so it is over the tab of the wiring harness connector, and pull the blank connector off.
2. Insert the end of a small-bladed screwdriver under the edges of each of the three ice maker mounting hole plugs in the side of the freezer liner, and pry them out of their holes. You can discard the plugs.
3.
For Top/Bottom Freezers Only: Partially install two 3 ⁄
4
" hex-head sheet-metal screws into the two top mounting holes (shown in the diagram) of the freezer liner. You will hang the ice maker over these two screws later, so make sure that they protrude out far enough.
4.
For Side-By-Side Models Only: Refer to
DETAIL A and mount the two mounting clips (from the ice maker kit) to the top mounting holes of the freezer liner with two
3 ⁄
4
" hex-head sheet-metal screws. Make sure that both clips hang straight down and then tighten the screws.
14
SXS MODELS
ONLY
DETAIL A
3 ⁄
4
" hex-head sheet-metal screws
Ice maker clips
Hole plugs
Lift locking arm over tab
Tab
Blank connector
(remove and discard)
Wiring harness connector
Installing the ice maker clips
Refer to the side diagrams for the following steps.
1. Position the ice maker inside the freezer compartment and connect its wiring connector to the wiring harness connector so they lock together (the locking arm will snap over the raised tab). The connectors will fit together only one way.
2.
For Top/Bottom Freezers Only: Hang the ice maker over the two hex-head screws you installed earlier. Make sure that the bottom mounting bracket hole is aligned with the mounting hole in the freezer liner, then tighten the two top hex head screws.
Be careful not to overtighten the screws.
Tabs
Screws
Bottom mounting bracket
1/2" hex-head sheet-metal screw
Wiring harness connectors
Mounting the ice maker
(top and bottom freezers)
3.
For Side-By-Side Models Only: Position the ice maker so that its top and bottom mounting tabs are flat against the side of the freezer liner. Center the top tabs under the two mounting clips, and push the ice maker straight up so that the mounting clips snap over the tabs and lock into place (you should hear them “click” as they lock).
4. Mount the bottom bracket of the ice maker to the freezer liner mounting hole with a 3 ⁄
4
" hex-head sheet-metal screw.
Ice maker
Bottom mounting bracket
Slide tabs under clips
Insert fill tube into cup
1 ⁄
2
" hex-head sheet-metal screw
Wiring harness connectors
Mounting the ice maker
(side-by-side models)
15
Installing the Water Line
Choosing a location
1. Open the copper tubing kit that you purchased earlier, and lay the contents neatly on a table where you can identify them easily. The parts from the kit that you will use are as follows:
1 Regular Valve (not the steelpiercing type)
2 Compression Sleeves
2 Compression Nuts
2 Clamps
2 Screws
2 Nuts
1 Gasket Seal
1 Length of Coiled Copper Tubing
NOTE: When you work with the soft copper tubing, be careful not to kink it. If you accidentally kink the tubing, do not use it.
IMPORTANT: Do not install water line tubing in a location where the temperature may fall below freezing; otherwise, property damage could occur.
2. Choose a suitable water pipe location to install the water shut-off valve (see side diagram for some suggested locations). We recommend installing the valve on a vertical length of cold (not hot) water pipe that is nearest your refrigerator. If a vertical length of pipe is not nearby, you can use a horizontal length of water pipe, however, you will have to drill the access hole for the valve into the top or side of the pipe (not the bottom). This will keep water in the pipe from flowing down onto the drill, and also keep sediment from collecting in the valve later.
NOTE: Depending on the location of the horizontal pipe in relation to the floor and wall, drilling into it may not be possible.
3. Drill a 3 ⁄
8
" hole through the floor or wall to the water pipe.
Through floor to basement cold water pipe
Under sink to cold water pipe
Through wall to utility room cold water pipe
Typical water pipe locations
In crawl space under home to cold water pipe
16
Routing the copper tubing
Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.
1. Uncoil the necessary length of copper tubing and straighten it, then route the end of the tubing through the access hole you drilled to the location you have chosen to install the shut-off valve. Straighten only enough of the copper tubing to reach this location. Leave the rest coiled near the access hole.
2. At this time, make sure that you have been supplied with enough tubing so that when you are finished connecting the water line, you will have enough coiled behind the refrigerator to easily move it forward far enough to clean behind it. Also make sure that the coils are large enough so that when the unit is pulled forward, the windings will not stretch too far and kink.
3. Turn off the cold water supply going to the water pipe where you will be installing the shut-off valve.
4. Open a cold water tap that is connected to the selected water pipe and bleed off the water pressure. Leave the tap open until after you complete the water line hook up.
5. Use a hammer and a center punch, and mark the location of the hole for the shut-off valve. If you are marking copper tubing, do not strike the punch hard enough to bend it.
6. Install a 1 ⁄
4
" bit in the drill, and carefully drill an access hole through just the front side (not through both sides) of the cold water pipe.
7. Check the hole and make sure that you have drilled completely through one side of the pipe. The edges of the hole should be smooth and round. If necessary, use a small 3 ⁄
4
-round file to remove any rough edges from inside the hole, and any burrs from around the top of the hole.
;
Back wall
;
Allow 4 to 5 feet of coiled tubing for moving refrigerator
Drill 3 ⁄
8
" access hole for tubing
Coiled copper tubing
Water valve Refrigerator
Drill 1 ⁄
4
" hole in front side of vertical water pipe
;;;;;
Routing the copper tubing
17
Installing the shut-off valve
Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.
1. Locate the shut-off valve and the front pipe clamp (with the threaded hole in the center) from the copper tubing kit. Then, being careful not to crossthread the valve, screw the end with the pilot tube into the threaded hole of the clamp. Hand-tighten the valve as far as it will go (the threaded shaft is slightly tapered and can only be tightened so far).
2. Use a 1 ⁄
2
" open-end (or adjustable) wrench, and turn the body of the shut-off valve an additional 1 ⁄
8
-turn to secure it to the clamp.
3. Slide the rubber seal gasket (from the copper tubing kit) over the pilot tube (the unthreaded portion) of the shut-off valve.
4. Carefully slide the pilot tube of the shut-off valve into the water pipe access hole so it is against the seal gasket, and install the back pipe clamp over the water pipe.
Secure the clamps to the pipe with the two screws and nuts that were supplied with the copper tubing kit. Tighten the nuts equally so that the space between the clamps is the same (see DETAIL A). DO
NOT OVERTIGHTEN the nuts, or you could deform the clamps and damage the seal gasket.
DETAIL A
Keep spacing equal
Screw
Pilot tube
Shut-off valve
Front pipe clamp
Seal gasket
Nut
Back pipe clamp
Vertical cold water pipe
Mounting the shut-off valve to the water pipe
Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve
Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.
1. Straighten a 2 " section of copper tubing and make sure that the opening is round and cut evenly across the end. If necessary, use a tubing cutter (or a hacksaw) and cut the end off, then file it so it is even, and remove any burrs from around the inside and outside edges so it is smooth and round. When you are finished, clean the filings from inside the tubing as much as possible.
5. Use a 1 ⁄
2
" open-end wrench, and further tighten the compression nut on the shut-off valve one additional turn. If necessary, you will tighten the nut further after you turn on the water supply.
6. Turn the T-handle on the shut-off valve to its fully “open” (counterclockwise rotation) position.
2. Position the compression nut as shown, and slide it over the end of the copper tubing.
3. Slide a compression sleeve over the copper tubing until it is approximately
1 " from the end.
4. Insert the end of the copper tubing into the outlet connector of the shut-off valve as far as it will go, and then hand tighten the compression nut as much as possible.
Compression nut
Shut-off valve
Open
T-handle
Outlet connector
Compression sleeve
Copper tubing
Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve
Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve
Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.
1. Check to make sure that the free end of the tubing is round and cut even. If necessary, prepare the end in the same manner as you did earlier. Be sure to clean the filings from inside the tubing after you prepare the end.
9. Insert the end of the tubing into the water inlet connector at the top of the water valve as far as it will go, and hand tighten the compression nut as much as possible.
When you perform the next step, be careful not to kink the copper tubing.
10. Use a 1 ⁄
2
" open-end wrench, and further tighten the compression nut on the water inlet connector one additional turn. If necessary, you will tighten the nut further after you turn on the water supply.
2. Starting at the free end, straighten approximately 20 " of the copper tubing.
3. Close the water tap you left open earlier to bleed the water lines.
11. Mount the strain relief clamp to the back of the cabinet with the hex-head screw you removed earlier.
4. Insert the end of the copper tubing into a pail, and have someone turn on the water supply. Allow enough water to flow through the lines to thoroughly flush them out. Once the water runs clear, turn off the supply and bleed the lines.
Copper tubing clamp
Mounting screw
5. Remove the strain relief clamp from the rear of the cabinet and slide it over the end of the copper tubing. Make sure you position the flanges as shown.
6. Slide a compression nut over the free end of the copper tubing.
7. Slide a compression sleeve over the copper tubing and position it 1 " from the end.
8. If one is installed, remove the plastic cap from the water inlet fitting on the water valve and discard the cap.
Water valve
Copper tubing
Compression nut
Compression sleeve
Water inlet fitting
Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve
20
Turning the water on
NOTE: Be very careful when you tighten the compression nuts that you do not overtighten them and destroy the compression sleeving and the end of the soft copper tubing. If this happens, you will have to cut off the end of the tubing, purchase a new compression sleeve, and start over. Be careful and go slow!
1. Turn on the water supply and check the shut-off valve for leakage. If necessary, refer to the side diagram, and tighten the compression nut on the shut-off valve in small increments until the leakage just stops. Wipe off the connection with a cloth each time you check for leaks.
Shut-off valve
Open
T-handle
Water flow
Compression nut
Tightening the shut-off valve connection
2. Check the water valve for any leakage. If necessary, tighten the compression nut
(see the side diagram) in small increments until the leaking just stops.
Water valve
Compression nut
Water inlet fitting
Tightening the water valve connection
21
Final Installation
Installing the access cover and forming the copper tubing
1. Reinstall the rear access cover on the refrigerator so the water valve tubing is inside the cover, and the copper water line is outside (see the diagram below), then secure the cover with the seven hex-head screws you removed earlier.
2. Loop the copper tubing coming from the water valve as shown. Position the coiled copper tubing near the center of the unit so that it forms an “accordion-fold” (as shown in the diagram below) when it is moved toand-from the wall.
Form tubing loops as shown
Hex-head screws
Rear access cover
Copper tubing
Place water valve tubing behind cover
Hex-head screws
Installing the access cover and forming the copper tubing
22
Connecting the power/leveling the unit
1. Plug the power cord into its AC outlet, and carefully push the refrigerator back against the wall.
2. Place a level on top of the cabinet. If you need to relevel the refrigerator, follow the procedure to adjust the front casters, as outlined in your refrigerator’s “Use and Care
Guide.”
3. Check the position of the ice maker. If it is crooked and needs to be adjusted, loosen the bottom bracket screws (see the side diagram) and position the unit as desired, then tighten the bracket screws.
Bracket
Sheet-metal screw
Leveling screw
Leveling the ice maker
23
Starting the Ice Maker
1. Wash out the ice bucket, and then slide it under the ice maker (see the side diagram) as far as it will go. The ice bucket will be sitting on top of the freezer shelf.
Ice maker
Ice bucket
IMPORTANT: On top-mount models without a full-width freezer shelf, you will need to place the ice bucket on top of the inverted ice tray shelf. First, position the ice tray shelf face down so that the shorter side is alongside the freezer wall (see DETAIL A). Then insert the tabs on the shorter side of the shelf into the slots on the edge of the freezer floor. This will hold the shelf in position. Next, place the ice bucket on top of the inverted ice tray shelf and slide it under the ice maker (see side diagram). The ice maker will not function properly if the ice bucket is placed directly on the freezer floor.
2. Place the items back into the freezer compartment.
3. Lower the arm on the ice maker (see the side diagram) to its “on” position, and close the freezer door. The ice maker will begin to make ice within 24 hours.
NOTE: It usually takes approximately 24 hours for the ice maker to begin producing ice. Once ice is available, you may notice that it has an “off taste.” If this happens, make two or three batches of ice and discard them.
After that, the “off-taste” should be gone. If you have any problems, refer to “Troubleshooting” on page 25.
This completes the installation of your Ice
Maker.
24
Installing the ice bucket
DETAIL A
Slots
Tabs
Off
On
Raise arm to stop ice
Lower arm to start it
Turning the ice maker on
Troubleshooting
Operational notes
1. The Ice Maker water valve contains a flow washer that acts like a pressure regulator to control the water flow. For the Ice Maker to work properly, the water pressure in your home must be between 20 and 120 pounds per-square-inch (psi). If you encounter problems with your Ice Maker’s ability to produce ice, call your water utility company and have the water pressure checked.
2. The Ice Maker’s water valve is equipped with two strainers: a plastic basket type and a wire-mesh screen. Both of these can be cleaned by turning off the water and disassembling the water valve (your service center should be able to provide this service). If local water conditions require periodic cleaning, or if you use a well as a water source, you should consider installing a second water strainer in the water line. You can obtain a water strainer from your local appliance dealer.
Troubleshooting chart
The following chart lists several common problems that could occur with your Ice Maker.
PROBLEM
One or more of the following sounds is heard:
• Buzzing
• Trickling water
• Thud (clatter of ice)
Ice tastes stale.
Water in Ice Maker overflows.
Not enough ice.
Ice making has stopped.
CAUSE
The water valve is operating.
Water is entering the Ice Maker fill cup.
Ice is being dumped into the ice bin.
The ice is old. Make a new batch.
Refrigerator or Ice Maker is not level. If the Ice
Maker still overflows after leveling, turn off the
Ice Maker’s water supply at the shut-off valve, and raise the Ice Maker’s bail arm to the “off” position (see page 24); then contact your local service center.
It will take 48 hours to fill the ice bucket. The ice maker will make ice every 2 to 3 hours. For more ice, adjust the freezer control for a colder setting.
Be sure that the bail arm is lowered into the ice bucket (see page 24).
Make sure that the water shut-off valve is on.
The water shut-off valve or the water valve screen is clogged (contact your local service center).
25
The modular ice maker service sheet
Module test points
V
L
N
Removal screws (3)
T
H
M
Specifications
MOLD HEATER – 185 WATTS, 72 OHMS
THERMOSTAT – CLOSE 17° ± 3 °
(BIMETAL) OPEN 32° ± 3°
WATER FILL – 140CC, 7.5 SEC.
MOTOR – 1.5 WATTS, 8800 OHMS
MODULE – STAMPED CIRCUIT,
PLUG-IN CONNECTORS
CYCLE – ONE REVOLUTION
(EJECTS AND WATER FILL)
FOR 120 VOLT MODEL
MODULE VOLTAGE CHECKS WITH METER
OR TEST LIGHT (POWER TO ICE MAKER)
TEST
POINTS COMPONENT
LINE
VOLTAGE
0
VOLTS
L-N
T-H
L-H
L-M
N-V
MODULE
BIMETAL
HEATER
MOTOR
WATER VALVE
POWER OK
OPEN
ON
ON
ON
NO POWER
CLOSED
OFF
OFF
OFF
TEST
POINTS
L-H
L-M
MODULE OHMMETER CHECKS
(NO POWER TO ICE MAKER AND
EJECTOR BLADES IN PARK)
COMPONENT
MODULE
POSITION
MOLD HEATER
MOTOR
ATTACHED
TO SUPPORT
DISCONNECT
FROM SUPPORT
OHMS
72
8800
Water level adjustment
TURNING THE SCREW CLOCKWISE DECREASES THE
WATER FILL.
• 1 ⁄
2
TURN EQUALS 20CC OR 1.2 SEC.
• FULL TURN EQUALS 40CC OR 2.4 SEC.
• MAXIMUM ADJUSTMENT IS ONE FULL TURN EITHER
DIRECTION. ADDITIONAL ROTATION COULD DAMAGE
MODULE.
Service Procedures
COVER
PULL WATER ADJUSTMENT KNOB FIRST AND SNAP
OFF COVER. INDEX KNOB AND REINSTALL IN SAME
POSITION FOR WATER FILL.
MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
INSERT PHILLIPS DRIVER IN ACCESS PORTS IN
MODULE. LOOSEN BOTH SCREWS. DISCONNECT
SHUT-OFF ARM. PULL MOLD FROM SUPPORT
ASSEMBLY.
SHUT-OFF ARM
PULL OUT FROM SUPPORT. REINSERT TO FULL
DEPTH.
MOLD AND HEATER
REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY.
BIMETAL
REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEM-
BLY. PULL OUT RETAINING CLIPS WITH BIMETAL.
FILL CUP
REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEM-
BLY. REMOVE EJECTOR BLADES AND SHUT-OFF
ARM. PULL FILL CUP FROM MOLD.
EJECTOR BLADES OR STRIPPER
REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, SUPPORT ASSEMBLY.
WHEN REINSTALLING EJECTOR BLADES, REALIGN
“D” COUPLING WITH MODEL CAM.
26
Mold attachment screw access ports (2)
(Phillips)
Shut-off arm
Adjustment screw
Ice maker replacement parts list
When you place an order for a part, use the “Part Number,” not the “Key Number.”
Key
Number
13
14
15
16
9
10
11
12
5
6
7
8
1
3
4
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
Part
Number
628228
628356
627843
627788
627790
627796
627985
489322
628358
628258
489136
489276
627792
628256
2155021
489128
1115846
628366
627929
1115844
628229
628379
Description
Mold and Heater Assembly
Bearing and Inlet
Ejector
Ice Stripper
Support
Retainer, Thermostat (2)
Thermostat (also Order #542369 Cement Alumilastic)
Screw, (2) 10-32 x 49/64"
Module, Assembly
Motor
Screw, (2) 3-24 x 23/64"
Screw, (3)
Shut-off Arm
Wiring, Harness
Clip, Ice Maker
Screw, 8-32 x 27/64"
Cover
Module Assembly (Includes Items 10, 11, and 12)
Valve, Solenoid
Knob, Water
Bracket
Clip, Thermal Fuse
4
15
16 3
1
5
23
7
10
11 12
9 6
8
19
14
22
17
13
18
20
21
27
Ice maker replacement parts list (cont’d)
The following parts are not illustrated.
Optional parts are not included in this list.
Part
Number Description
939529 Ice Cube Pan
837142 Trim, Ice Cube Pan
1121997 Accessory Bag, Outside
*836489 Fitting, Water Tube
*1106508 Seal Gasket
*488645 Screw, 8 x 1/2"
*488649 Screw, 8-32 x 1/2"
*841707 Insert, Plastic Tube
*627854 Tube Assembly, Inlet Valve
*537588 Nut, Inlet Valve
*488292 Washer
*836074 Dampener
*510716 Tube Clamp
*488366 Tube Clamp
*488878 Tube Clamp
*549193 Clamp, Service Cord
*653499 Plastic Tube
*627018 Nut and Sleeve Assembly
*841707 Insert, Plastic Tube
**1121995 Accessory Bag, Inside
**489069 Screw, 8 x 1/2 "
**939027 Tube, Water Inlet
944811 Wiring Assembly, Ice Maker
* Components of Accessory Bag Outside.
** Components of Accessory Bag Inside.
PART NO. 2181913 Rev. A
©2000 Whirlpool Corporation. All rights reserved.
Printed in U.S.A.
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