650-K Aluminum Boat Repair Instructions

650-K Aluminum Boat Repair Instructions
Safety
• Avoid skin contact with resin, hardener or
mixed epoxy. Wear liquid-proof gloves
and adequate protective clothing to keep
the epoxy off your skin.
• Avoid eye contact with resin, hardener or
mixed epoxy. Wear protective glasses. In
case of contact with eyes, flush with
water for 15 minutes and consult a
physician.
• Avoid inhalation of vapors. Provide
adequate ventilation. Wear a dust mask
when sanding epoxy, especially epoxy
that has not fully cured.
• Read and follow safety information on
resin and hardener containers.
Starting out
Remove and discard the red inner seal from
both containers. Trim the tip of each spout
about ¼" from the end.
Before mixing epoxy, gather all necessary
application tools, clamps and equipment.
Check all parts for proper fit and be sure all
surfaces to be coated are properly prepared.
Mixing and curing
Dispense equal volumes of G/flex 650
Resin and Hardener into a small
mixing cup (1).
Use a mixing
stick to thoroughly blend the
1
resin and harde ne r ,
w hi l e
scraping the
sides and bottom of the mixScrape sides,
ing cup (2). Small
bottom and
corners
quantities can
be mixed on a
2
paper or plastic
palette.
After mixing the resin and hardener, you will
have about 45 minutes, at 72°F (22°C), to
apply the mixture before it begins to gel and
up to 75 minutes to assemble and clamp
parts after the epoxy is initially applied. At
72°F (22°C), the epoxy mixture will solidify
in 3–4 hours. It will reach a workable cure in
7–10 hours and may then be sanded,
clamps can be removed, and joints can be
moderately loaded. Wait 24 hours before
subjecting joints to high loads.
Epoxy cures faster in warmer temperatures
and slower in cooler temperatures. When a
quicker cure is desired, apply moderate
heat to substantially reduce cure time. Cure
time is reduced by half with each 18°F increase in temperature. G/flex 650 Epoxy
will cure in temperatures as low as 40°F
(5°C), but will cure very slowly. When using
G/flex at lower temperatures, it is a good
idea to warm resin and hardener to room
temperature while dispensing and mixing.
Curing epoxy also generates heat. Thicker
layers of epoxy generally cure faster than
thinner layers, as this heat is concentrated
in thicker layers and dissipated in thinner
layers. Use caution when mixing large
batches of G/flex 650 Epoxy. A large, confined quantity of curing epoxy (10 fl oz or
more) may generate enough heat to burn
your skin or melt a plastic mixing cup.
Cleanup
Clean uncured epoxy from skin and clothes
with alcohol, followed by washing with
soap and water.
Remove excess epoxy from work surfaces
with the flat end of a mixing stick or with paper towels. Clean up residue with alcohol,
citrus-based cleaner or a solvent such as
lacquer thinner or acetone.
DRY—Although G/flex 650 Epoxy can be
used to bond damp and wet surfaces, maximum adhesion will be achieved when
bonding to dry surfaces.
Additional surface preparation
Metals
Sand or grit-blast the surface to expose
bright metal.
Clean the area with acetone or lacquer thinner using white paper towels. Allow the surface to dry completely.
Abrade through wet epoxy—Apply a thin
coat of G/flex 650 Epoxy and immediately
scrub metal surfaces through the wet epoxy coating with a fine wire brush or sandpaper.
Adhesion to aluminum can best be improved by treating it with the two-part WEST
SYSTEM 860 Aluminum Etch prior to applying the epoxy. Aluminum can be prepared
using the “abrade through wet epoxy”
method with good results if an Aluminum
Etch kit is not available.
Hardwoods, including tropical woods
Bonding to dry wood (between 6 and 12%
moisture content) is best for achieving
long-term reliable bonds. Sand mating surfaces with 80-grit parallel to the grain.
Clean oily woods with a solvent such as
isopropyl alcohol or acetone. Apply solvent
with plain white paper towels. Wipe the sur-
Plastics
Clean plastics, except for polycarbonate,
with isopropyl alcohol to remove contamination. Sand all plastics including
polycarbonate with 80-grit sandpaper to
provide texture for good adhesion. Flame
treat ABS and PVC for additional benefit.
HDPE (high-density polyethylene) and
LDPE (low-density polyethylene) must be
flame treated for good adhesion.
FLAME TREATING—Pass the flame of a
propane torch across the surface quicky.
Allow the flame to touch the surface, but
keep it moving—about 12 inches per second. No obvious change takes place, but
the flame oxidizes the surface and dramatically improves adhesion with adhesives
and coatings applied over it.
While flame treating will improve adhesion
to most plastics, it appears to provide the
greatest benefit to polyethylene (HDPE and
LDPE). If you are unsure of the type of plastic, it doesn’t hurt to flame treat. n
Surface preparation for various dry materials
Material
Basic surface preparation
G/flex 650 Epoxy will bond to many different materials. For best adhesion to most
materials, bonding surfaces should be:
CLEAN—Remove loose, chalky or flaky
coatings, and contaminants such as
grease, oil, wax, and mold release. Clean
contaminated surfaces with an appropriate
solvent applied with plain white paper towels. Wipe the surface with a clean, dry paper towel before solvent dries. Do not use
laundered rags to apply or remove solvent
as they may contaminate the surface with
fabric softener residue.
SANDED—Sand non-porous and smooth
surfaces with 80-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper to provide good texture for the epoxy
to “key” into. Brush away sanding dust. Refer to the chart (right) for recommendations.
face with a clean,dry paper towel before
solvent dries. Do not use laundered rags to
apply or remove solvent.
The extent of wood failure in tensile adhesion tests indicate that G/flex 650 Epoxy,
with proper surface preparation, approached or exceeded the grain strength of
the wood in all of the woods we tested.
Fiberglass laminate
Aluminum
Steel
Steel-galvanized
Copper
Bronze
Lead
Basic surface preparation
Additional surface preparation
As necessary,
Remove soft and loose
surface material
Remove contamination
with solvent wipe
860 Aluminum Etch, two part
Wire brush through wet epoxy
Ipe
White oak
Walnut
Isopropyl Alcohol wipe
Sand with 80-grit sandpaper parallel to grain
Purpleheart
Greenheart
ABS
PVC
HDPE, LDPE plastic
Polycarbonate (Lexan™)
Isopropyl Alcohol wipe
Sand with 80-grit
Sand with 80-grit
G/flex 650 Epoxy is the result of years of experimentation to develop a toughened epoxy that was simple to use, viscous enough
not to drain out of a joint, and would adhere
tenaciously to a variety of materials under
difficult conditions.
G/flex 650 is all that, and more. It is a marine-grade glue that can be accurately
mixed in small batches with a simple 1:1
mix ratio. It has the advantage of a long
open working time and a relatively short
cure time.
G/flex 650 is, first of all, a high-strength epoxy—designed for permanent, waterproof,
structural bonding. Furthermore, G/flex has
a modulus of elasticity of 150,000 psi, giving G/flex the toughness to make structural
bonds that can absorb the stresses of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration.
G/flex adheres tenaciously to difficult-to-glue hardwoods and even has the
ability to glue damp woods.
G/flex is ideal for bonding a variety of other
materials, including dissimilar ones—metals, plastics, glass, masonry, and fiberglass. It can be used to wet out and bond
fiberglass tapes and fabrics.
We encourage you to read these instruction
and then experiment with G/flex. We think
you will find many projects for which the
particular properties of G/flex are ideally
suited. As always, our Technical Staff is
available to answer your questions, and we
will be eager to hear about your projects
and repairs using G/flex Epoxy. Call
866-937-8797 (toll free).
WEST SYSTEM reliability
Sand with 80-grit sandpaper
Teak
G/flex 650—a WEST SYSTEM® Epoxy
Flame treat
Flame treat required
G/flex 650 Epoxy is the latest addition to
the WEST SYSTEM line of epoxy products.
While G/flex offers physical properties and
applications that are different than WEST
SYSTEM 105 Resin-based epoxies, they
share the same high standards for performance and reliability.
WEST SYSTEM is the worlds leading brand of
marine epoxy, created by Gougeon Brothers—sailors, boatbuilders, and formulators
who literally wrote the book on wood/epoxy
boat building. We know the engineering
and chemistry required to formulate epoxies for high-performance composite structures. It requires thorough research,
rigorous test programs, skillful shop work
and direct experience with today’s
high-performance boats and other engineered structures. This experience and
dedication to performance have given
WEST SYSTEM another quality that sets it
apart from other brands of epoxy.
Since 1969, reliability has been the hallmark of WEST SYSTEM. We adhere to the
highest standards of quality assurance in
our formulating and manufacturing practices, from raw material qualification to
testing and certification of finished resins
and hardeners. This means that every
properly mixed batch of WEST SYSTEM resin
and hardener, including G/flex resin and
hardener, will cure as it is supposed to, every time. This commitment to quality has
earned certification to the ISO 9001:2008
standard. WEST SYSTEM is your reliable solution.
Outstanding customer service
WEST SYSTEM provides you with something
else as reliable as our epoxy—knowledge.
Whether your project is large or small, the
WEST SYSTEM Technical Staff and comprehensive instructional publications will help
assure the success of your building and repair project. WEST SYSTEM is renowned for
its outstanding customer service.
The WEST SYSTEM website provides basic
product information, how-to videoas,
dealer locations and links, project articles
and galleries, and safety information. Visit
westsystem.com.
Further assistance can be obtained by contacting the friendly and knowledgeable
Technical Staff. Send e-mail to
[email protected]
or call 866-937-8797 (toll free).
Because West System Inc. cannot control how its products will
be used, it makes no warranties, either expressed or implied, including no warranties of merchantability and fitness for purpose
intended. West System Inc. will not be liable for incidental or consequential damages.
650-K
ALUMINUM BOAT
Repair Kit
Repair leaking seams and rivets
Step-by-step instructions show you how to use the materials in this kit to repair the most common problem with aluminum boats and canoes—leaking seams and rivets.
Tools required
In addition to the materials in this kit, you will need a propane torch or heat gun, a wire brush, a
putty knife, paper towels and laquer thinner or acetone as necessary for cleanup.
Repairs requiring additional materials
With the addition of 745-30 12 oz (30"×30") Fiberglass Fabric and 808 Plastic Spreaders or the
equivalents, you can REPAIR TEAR OR PUNCTURE DAMAGE up to 36 square inches (6"×6"). You will
also need a 18" drill, a sabre saw with metal cutting blade, a hammer and 80-grit sandpaper. Though
not required, WEST SYSTEM 860 Aluminum Etch Kit will improve adhesion of the patch and is recommended for the repair of pitted and pin-holed surfaces. Instructions for these repairs are included.
Finishing
G/flex Epoxy is compatible with most primers and paints to match existing finishes.
Kit contents
4 fl oz G/flex 650-A Resin, 4 fl oz G/flex 650-B Hardener (8 fl oz mixed epoxy), 406 Adhesive Filler,
2 reusable mixing sticks, 2-12 cc syringes, 2 mixing cups, 2 pair disposable neoprene gloves and
handling and repair instructions.
WARNING IRRITANT. POSSIBLE SKIN SENSITIZER. May cause irritation to eyes and skin. May cause allergic reaction. Avoid skin and eye contact. Do not ingest. Use with adequate ventilation. Use with liquid-proof gloves,
eye protection and protective clothing.
FIRST AID: SKIN CONTACT—Immediately wash with soap and water. EYE CONTACT—Immediately flush with
water for at least 15 minutes. Consult physician. INHALATION—Remove to fresh air. Consult physician if
coughing or irritation develops. INGESTION—Do not induce vomiting. If conscious, give 2 glasses of water.
Get immediate medical attention. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
650-A RESIN CONTAINS: bisphenol-a epoxy resin, bisphenol-f epoxy resin. 650-B HARDENER CONTAINS:
ATBN polymer, aminoetheylpiperazine, tris-2,4,6-(dimethylaminomethyl)phenol, triethylenetetramine, phenol 2,4,6-tris[(dimethylamino)methyl] reaction products with triethylenetetramine, phenalkamine curing
agent, cashew nutshell liquid, 1,3-benzenedimethanamine. 406 ADHESIVE FILLER CONTAINS: amorphous
silica.
SCAN FOR VIDEO
650 Epoxy General Use
Manufactured for West System by:
Gougeon Brothers, Inc. / Bay City, MI USA
866-937-8797 / westsystem.com
©2011 GBI
M1211
R60-412
Fix leaking seams and rivets
As aluminum boats age the accumulated
wear and tear on its riveted joints can take a
toll on the rivets themselves. Rivets can
stretch and eventually loosen, leaving gaps
and leaks. Severely damaged seams may
require new rivets in combination with
G/flex Epoxy. Most leaks can be easily repaired with this kit and the following:
¨ Wire brush
¨ Propane torch or heat gun
1. Determine the exact locations of leaks
by putting the boat in the water or by filling
the boat part way with water to see where it
leaks.
2. Mark the leak locations with an indelible
pen.
3. Allow the boat to dry.
4. Roll the hull over if possible for easy access to leaking sections.
5. Abrade along the seams and rivets with a
wire brush to remove any debris and expose bright metal. A wire brush attachment
on drill will make the job easier.
1
6. Dispense equal volumes of G/flex 650
resin and hardener into a mixing cup and
stir thoroughly with the mixing stick (1).
Transfer the mixed G/flex epoxy to the
plastic syringe. (It is quicker to fill the syringe by removing the plunger and pouring
the epoxy into top, especially in cooler temperatures. You should also find it easier to
2
extrude the epoxy in cooler temperatures if
you trim the syringe tip back to about a 116"
opening.)
7. Use a propane torch or heat gun to boil
off any remaining water under the rivets and
in the seams in 12" to 18"-long sections or
areas (2).
4
3. Keep forcing the mixture through the
seam until you see epoxy on the other side
of the hull. Thickened epoxy bridges gaps
and stays in the seams while it cures.
4. Wipe uncured excess epoxy from both
sides while uncured with paper towel. Use
solvent (laquer thinner or acetone) sparingly if needed to remove stubborn epoxy.
Avoid washing epoxy out of the seams or
dissolving paint.
5. Allow the epoxy to cure overnight at 65°F
(18°C) or warmer before using the boat.
You can speed curing by applying moderate heat.
®
6. Apply a spray paint like Rustoleum All
Finishes to match the aluminum or the existing paint if desired. n
Patch holes in aluminum hulls
3
8. Apply a continuous bead of G/flex, using
the syringe, along the heated seam and
around rivet heads. The epoxy should thin
out and flow into the smallest crevices (3).
9. Heat the metal with a torch or heat gun
as necessary to thin the epoxy to a water-like consistency and to move it along
and penetrate deeply into seams and under
rivets. Continued moderate heating will
cause the epoxy to gel and cure quickly. Do
not heat the epoxy to the point where it discolors or begins to smoke.
When you are satisfied that epoxy has penetrated all of the gaps move on to the next
section. Repeat steps 6 through 9 until all
leaks are repaired.
Filling larger gaps in seams and rivets
If new rivets are not available to draw together large gaps, it is possible to successfully repair larger gaps in seams and loose
rivets by completing the previous 8 steps
and following with these additional steps:
1. Mix a batch of G/flex 650 Epoxy as described earlier. Stir in 406 Adhesive Filler to
thicken the mixture to a “mayonnaise” consistency.
2. Force the thickened epoxy mixture into
the seam gaps or under the leaky rivets with
a putty knife or mixing stick while the initial
coat of G/flex 650 is still uncured (4). You
may also use the syringe filled with the
thickened mixture to force epoxy into the
gaps. Trim the tip back as necessary for the
thicker material.
It is not uncommon for a thin-gauged aluminum hull skin to be punctured or torn by
some unseen underwater object or unforseen trailering mishap. If you don’t have
skills or the patience for welding or riveting
aluminum you can still effect a sturdy repair
with G/flex 650 epoxy and the following
items not included in the kit:
¨ WEST SYSTEM 745-30 12 oz (30" × 30")
Fiberglass Fabric.
¨ W EST S YSTEM 808 Flexible Plastic
Spreader.
¨ WEST SYSTEM 803 Glue Brush
¨ 80-grit sandpaper
¨ WEST SYSTEM 860 Aluminum Etch Kit
(recommended)
These items along with the kit materials will
allow you to repair a damaged area up to
6"× 6" as follows:
1. Hammer the torn aluminum back as
close as possible to the original hull shape.
Cut away torn edges as necessary for the
metal to lie smooth.
2. Drill a 1 8" diameter hole at the ends of
each crack to prevent further cracking (5).
5
3. Smooth edges and rough areas with
80-grit sandpaper.
7
9. Mix a batch of G/flex 650 and stir in
enough 406 Adhesive Filler to thicken the
mixture to a “mayonnaise” consistency.
10. Apply the thickened mixture to the repair
area on the inside of the hull, filling the gaps in
the metal and leaving a thin layer of the thickened mixture over the entire repair area.
11. Cut a piece of 12 oz fiberglass cloth 2"
larger on all sides than the hole. Cut a second piece 1" larger on each side than the
hole. Then cut a third piece ¼" larger on
each side than the hole.
12. Dispense equal volumes of G/flex 650
Resin and Hardener into the mixing cup
and stir thoroughly with the mixing stick.
6
4. Abrade away any remaining paint in the
area at least 2" larger than the hole on the
inside and outside of the hull (6). (You can
improve adhesion to aluminum by treating
with an aluminum etch, such as the
two-part WEST SYSTEM 860 Aluminum
Etch. Follow the etch kit instructions.)
5. Cut a piece of 12 oz fiberglass cloth 2"
larger on all sides than the hole to match the
abraded or treated area.
6. Dispense equal volumes of G/flex 650
Resin and Hardener into the mixing cup
and stir thoroughly with the mixing stick.
7. Place the fiberglass on a piece of plastic.
Using a disposable brush, apply the mixed
epoxy to the fabric until it is saturated.
8. Position the wet fiberglass over the hole
on the outside of the hull with 2" of fabric
extending beyond all sides of the hole. Use
a plastic spreader to smooth the fabric
against the surface while wiping off excess
epoxy (7).
8
13. Place the three pieces of fiberglass on a
piece of plastic. Using a disposable brush,
apply the mixed epoxy to the pieces of fabric until they are saturated (8).
9
14. Position the largest piece of wet fiberglass over the hole on the inside of the hull
with 2" of fabric extending beyond all sides
of the hole. Position the next biggest piece
centered over the first. Then position the
smallest piece centered over the previous
piece. Using a plastic spreader, smooth all
of the fabric against the surface, eliminate
trapped air and wipe off excess epoxy (9).
Check the outside of the hull to make sure
the patch was not pushed away from the
surface. Smooth it with the spreader as necessary.
10
15. When both sides of the patch have
cured to a duct tape-like tackiness, mix a
batch of G/flex 650 and stir in enough 406
Adhesive Filler to thicken the mixture to a
“mayonnaise” consistency. Using a plastic
spreader, apply this mixture over the patch,
filling and smoothing the uneven edges and
blending both sides of the patch into the
undamaged area around it (10). Allow the
patch to cure overnight.
16. Wipe the area with water and sand the
epoxy smooth and dull before applying a final
finish. (If you are not satisfied with the
smoothness of the patch repeat steps 15 and
16 before continuing with the final finish.)
17. Apply a finish coating to protect the epoxy from the effects of sunlight. You can
apply a spray paint like Rustoleum® All Finishes to match the aluminum or the existing
paint. Or, you may apply another coat of
G/flex 650, modified with WEST SYSTEM
420 Aluminum Powder to create a UV resistant coating with a aluminum-like metallic
grey color. If the hull is painted, you can
coat the repaired area with a marine or automotive primer and matching paint. Follow
paint manufacturers recommendations. n
Repair pitted or pin holed surfaces
Extensive corrosion or pinhole damage
should be cut away with and replaced with
new material by a repair professional. But
as long as the damage is not too severe,
you may reinforce the area with G/flex 650
epoxy and the following items not included
in the kit:
¨ WEST SYSTEM 745-30 12 oz (30" × 30")
Fiberglass Fabric.
¨ W EST S YSTEM 808 Flexible Plastic
Spreader.
¨ WEST SYSTEM 803 Glue Brush
¨ 80-grit sandpaper
¨ WEST SYSTEM 860 Aluminum Etch Kit
These items along with the kit materials
will allow you to repair a damaged area up
to 12"× 12" as follows:
1. Remove loose material with a wire
brush and abrade the area with 80-grit
sandpaper.
2. Treat the surface of the damaged area
with WEST SYSTEM 860 Aluminum Etch
(sold separately) or a similar 2-step etching product. (If a two-step etch is not available, abrade with 80-grit sandpaper
immediately after applying a coat of G/flex
650 Epoxy. This removes the weak oxidation layer and exposes clean metal to improve adhesion.)
3. Dispense equal volumes of G/flex 650
Resin and Hardener into the mixing cup
and stir thoroughly with the mixing stick.
Then stir in enough 406 Adhesive Filler to
11
Note: Wherever fiberglass fabric is called for, you may use more layers of lighter weight
fabric that totals the same weight. For example, to equal 3 layers of 12 oz fabric, you
may use 6 layers of 6 oz, or 9 layers of 4 oz fabric to total 36 ounces. Always make top
layers progressively smaller than the bottom layer. Center each layer over the previous
layer with the edge of each layer stepped back from the edge of layer below it.
thicken the mixture to a “mayonnaise”
consistency.
4. Force this thickened G/flex 650 into the
pinholes, filling the pores, using a plastic
spreader or putty knife (11). Spread it
smoothly to leave a thin, even layer. Allow
to cure overnight.
Proceed to step 12 if damage is minimal. If
the damage area appears to be thin or porous, apply a layer of fiberglass fabric for
reinforcing as follows:
7. Cut a piece of 12 oz fiberglass fabric
slightly larger than the damaged area.
8. Dispense equal volumes of G/flex 650
Resin and Hardener into the mixing cup
and stir thoroughly with the mixing stick.
9. Place the fabric on a piece of plastic.Using a disposable brush, apply the mixed
epoxy to the fabric until it is saturated.
10. Position the wet fiberglass over the
damaged area. Use a plastic spreader to
smooth the fabric against the surface
while wiping off excess epoxy.
11. When the fiberglass patch has cured to
a duct tape-like tackiness, mix a batch of
G/flex 650 and stir in enough 406 Adhesive
Filler to thicken the mixture to a “mayonnaise” consistency. Use a plastic spreader
to apply this mixture over the patch and
smooth out the edges of the fabric and
blend the patch into the undamaged area
around it.
12. Wipe the area with water and sand the
epoxy smooth and dull before applying a
final finish.
If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of the patch repeat steps 11 and 12
before continuing as follows:
13. Apply a finish coating to protect the epoxy from the UV effects of sunlight. You can
®
apply a spray paint like Rustoleum All Finishes to match the aluminum or the existing
paint. If the hull is painted, you can coat the
repaired area with a marine primer and
matching paint or an automotive primer
and paint. Follow paint manufacturers recommendations. n
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