Value Hobby AVIATOR 25 ARF Instruction manual

Value Hobby AVIATOR 25 ARF Instruction manual
Wingspan: 62 in [1,550mm]
Wing Area: 698 sq in [45.0 sq dm]
Weight: 5 lbs [2,268 g] Length: 50.5 in [1,283mm]
Wing Loading: 17 oz/sq ft [52 g/sq dm]
Engine: .40 - .46 cu in [6.6 – 7.5cc] two-stroke
Radio: 4 channel
Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This
warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Tower Hobbies’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Tower Hobbies reserves the right to change or modify this
warranty without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
© Copyright 2002 V 1.0
Tower Hobbies
P.O. Box #90788
Champaign, IL 61826
(800) 637-6050
TOWZ1152 for TOWA1110
Thank you for purchasing our Tower Trainer 40 MKII ARF.
This model has been specially created for you and other
first-time radio control modelers. The Tower Hobbies Tower
Trainer 40 MKII ARF offers nearly all the excitement of
piloting a real airplane…and develops skills that will take
you anywhere you want in your new hobby.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ...................................3
ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS .................................3
RADIO RECOMMENDATIONS ...................................3
COVERING ACCESSORIES .......................................3
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS ..............................3
PREPARATIONS ..............................................................3
ASSEMBLE THE WING...................................................4
JOIN THE WING.........................................................4
HOOK UP THE AILERONS ........................................7
1. Your Tower Trainer 40 MKII ARF should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, the Tower Trainer
40 MKII ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage property.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE .......................................10
MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN ...................................10
INSTALL THE FUEL TANK............................................14
MOUNT THE ENGINE ...................................................15
MOUNT THE LANDING GEAR .....................................17
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
PARTS LIST section
FINAL ASSEMBLEY ......................................................19
HOOK UP THE CONTROLS ....................................20
3. You must take time to assemble straight, true and strong.
INSTALL THE RADIO GEAR.....................................21
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the assembly process.
APPLY THE DECALS................................................23
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLIGHT..........................24
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.) .................................25
5. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY .......................25
PREFLIGHT ...................................................................26
IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL .........................................26
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
CHARGE THE BATTERIES.......................................26
BALANCE PROPELLERS .........................................26
GROUND CHECK ....................................................26
RANGE CHECK........................................................26
7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
should fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS................................26
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)...............................27
CHECK LIST ..................................................................27
GETTING READY TO FLY.............................................28
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished model depends on how you
assemble it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee
the performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
USING RUBBER BANDS .........................................28
TAXIING ....................................................................28
TAKEOFF ..................................................................29
FLYING .....................................................................29
FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS.................................29
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
MODELING TERMS AND TRIVIA.................................30
If you have not flown this type of model before, we
recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced
pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a
member of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.
In addition to common household tools and hobby tools,
this is the “short list” of the most important items required
to assemble the Tower Trainer 40 MKII ARF. Tower
Hobbies Build-it™ CA and Epoxy glue are recommended.
❍ 2 oz. Tower Hobbies Build-it™ CA (TOWR3800)
❍ 30-Minute Tower Hobbies Build-it Epoxy (TOWR3811)
❍ 6-Minute Tower Hobbies Build-it Epoxy (TOWR3807)
❍ Hobby Knife (HCAR0105), #11 Blades (HCAR0211)
❍ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
❍ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
❍ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
❍ Small metal file
❍ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❍ Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❍ RTV Silicone
❍ Great Planes® Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
❍ Easy-Touch Sandpaper, 180 Grit (GPMR6184)
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly recommend
you join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). AMA
membership is required to fly at AMA sanctioned clubs.
There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Among other benefits, the AMA provides
insurance to its members who fly at sanctioned sites and
events. Additionally, training programs and instructors are
available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right
way. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:
Here is a list of optional supplies and tools mentioned in
the manual that will help you assemble the Tower Trainer
❍ Great Planes CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
❍ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700)
❍ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❍ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❍ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❍ Denatured Alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❍ Non-elastic monofilament or Kevlar fishing line
❍ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❍ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❍ Felt-Tip Marker (TOPQ2510)
❍ Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (HCAR0698)
❍ Great Planes AccuThrow™ Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
❍ Great Planes Stick-on Weight (GPMQ4485)
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to
finish the Tower Trainer 40 MKII ARF. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
Engine Recommendations
❍ 1. Remove the major parts of the kit from the box (wings,
fuselage, tail parts, etc.) and inspect them for damage. If any
parts are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in this manual.
OS® 40 LA [OSMG0041]
OS 40 FX [OSMG0540]
OS 46 LA [OSMG0046]
OS 46 FX [OSMG0546]
SUPER TIGRE® GS-40 Ring [SUPG0122]
Radio Recommendations
❍ 2. Remove the masking tape and separate the ailerons
from the wing, the rudder from the fin and the elevator from
the stabilizer. Where necessary, use a covering iron with a
covering sock to tighten the covering that may have
loosened during storage or from removing the masking
tape. Apply pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly
bond the covering to the wood.
Covering accessories
Tower Custom Sealing Iron (TOWR3250)
Top Flite® Hot Sock™ Iron Cover (TOPR2175)
❍ 1. In order to assemble the wing you will need the
following items as shown in the photo above.
Right Wing Panel (1)
Left Wing Panel (1)
CA Hinges (8)
Wing Dihedral Braces (2)
Aileron Servo Tray (1)
Aileron Servo Tray Mounting Blocks (2)
Aileron Pushrods (2)
Faslinks (2)
Clevises (2)
Nylon Torque Rod Horns (2)
Silicone Clevis Retainers (2)
❍ 2. In order to assemble the wing you will need the items
shown in the photo above from your radio control
system contents.
❍ 3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue both 3mm plywood wing
joiners together. Use weights or clamps to hold the joiners
in place until the epoxy cures.
the wing panels. Trim the root rib if necessary to
accommodate the servo and the servo wire. Prepare the
left wing panel the same way.
❍ 4. Test fit the aileron servo in the 3mm plywood aileron
servo tray. If necessary, trim the opening in the tray to
accommodate the servo. Once you are satisfied with the fit of
the servo, remove it from the tray and set it aside for now.
❍ 7. Trim the covering from the ends of the root ribs on
both wing panels. This is easily done with a sanding block
and medium-grit sandpaper as shown. Do both wing
panels at this time.
❍ 5. Measure the width of your servo. Mark and cut 1/2 of
this distance from the sheeting over the aileron servo
mounting area in both wing panels to accommodate 1/2 of
your aileron servo.
❍ 8. Draw a centerline on both sides of the plywood wing
joiner as shown.
❍ 9. Locate the two 8mm square x 38mm aileron servo
tray mounting blocks. Mark a centerline on each block.
Using the wing joiner as a guide, mark the wing dihedral
angle on both of the aileron mounting blocks. Trim and
sand to shape at this time.
❍ 6. The servo will be centered in the wing after the two
panels are joined. Test fit the servo into the cutout of both
Set the blocks aside for now.
❍ 10. Test fit the wing joiner into one wing panel, then the
other. Be certain the joiner is installed upright with the
joiner angled upward for wing dihedral. Also make sure that
the joiner slides in all the way to the centerline. Test fit the
wing panels together with the joiner. Make certain both
panels fit well.
❍ 12. Once satisfied with the fit of the joiner and the wing
has the proper dihedral, it is time to glue the two panels
together. First thoroughly coat the inside of both pockets
where the joiner fits and one half of the joiner with 30minute epoxy. Making certain the joiner is upright and
insert the coated end into one of the wing panels. Coat the
other end of the joiner and both wing root ribs with the
epoxy and join the two wing panels together.
❍ 13. Wipe away any epoxy that squeezes out from
between the wing halves with paper towels saturated with
alcohol. Use masking tape on the top and bottom to hold
the wing together as shown. Be certain the root ribs on the
ends of the wing panels accurately align. Again, wipe away
excess epoxy and do not disturb the wing until the epoxy
has fully hardened.
❍ 11. The measurement for this wing is 5-1/4” [133mm]
plus/minus 1/2” [13mm] from the top of your table to the
highest point of the wing tip as shown in the photo. To
check that this is correct, join the two wing panels together
with the joiner in place. Lay the wing on a flat surface with one
panel flat on your bench or table. To do this you will need to
allow the trailing edge of the wing to overhang the edge of your
table in order to avoid the aileron torque rods as shown in the
photograph above. After making sure the root ribs are fitting
together with no gaps on the top or bottom of the wing,
measure the distance from the bench surface to the wing tip.
If this measurement is not 5-1/4” [133mm] plus/minus 1/2”
[13mm] make adjustments in the plywood joiner. (It is possible
that the joiner may require slight sanding to remove slivers of
wood or excess epoxy that may interfere with the fit).
Do the left wing first so the assembly matches the
photographs the first time through. You can do one wing at
a time, or work on them together.
❍ ❍ 4. Coat the “arm” portion of the aileron torque rod
that slips inside the aileron and the groove and the hole in
the aileron where the torque rod fits with 30-minute epoxy.
Tip: You may want to use a toothpick to get epoxy into the
hole drilled in the aileron for the aileron torque rod.
❍ ❍ 1. Take a close look at the supplied hinges. The above
photo has this slot highlighted and must be inserted into
place in the proper direction as indicated in the photo.
❍ ❍ Use a strip of waxed paper between the torque rod
and the wing to keep from gluing the torque rod to the
wing. Be careful to keep the epoxy out of the area where
the rod enters the trailing edge of the wing. Place a small
amount of petroleum jelly in this area. Join the aileron to the
wing and the torque rod with the hinges. Wipe away excess
epoxy with a tissue saturated with alcohol.
❍ ❍ 2. Test fit the hinges in the hinge slots of the aileron
and the wing. If you have difficulty inserting the hinges,
insert a #11 blade into the slot and carefully move it back
and forth to slightly widen the slot. Test fit the aileron to the
wing with the hinges.
❍ ❍ 5. Remove the T-pins if you’ve used any. Adjust the
aileron so there is a small gap—just enough to see light
through or to slip a piece of paper through—between the
aileron and the wing.
❍ ❍ 6. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom
of each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator. After the CA has
fully hardened, test the hinges by pulling on the aileron. Go
back and install the other aileron in the same manner.
❍ ❍ 3. If the hinges don’t remain centered, stick a pin through
the middle of the hinge to hold it in position as shown.
❍ 9. Assemble the servo using the four servo grommets
and four brass eyelets as shown in the sketch above. Insert
the servo into the mount and mark the location for the 4
screws. Remove the servo and drill 1/16” [1.6mm] holes
through the servo mount for the servo mounting screws.
❍ 7. Glue the two 8mm square x 38mm aileron servo tray
mounting blocks that you cut to shape earlier to the aileron
servo tray. Be sure that you glue the flat side of the blocks
to the aileron servo mounting tray.
Run the servo mounting screws into the mount and then
remove them, which will make threads in the wooden servo
mount. Add a drop of thin CA to the holes and allow to fully
harden, thus hardening the threads for more strength.
Note: Do not apply the thin CA with the servo in place as
you will glue it to the mount. Mount the aileron servo using
the servo mounting screws.
❍ 8. Place the servo into this assembly and test fit this into
location in the center of the wing. Mark the location of the
mounting blocks with a felt tipped pen.
Use a sharp #11 blade to cut the covering from the wing
for the aileron servo mount. Be extremely careful to cut
only the covering and do not cut into the balsa wood under
the covering.
❍ 10. Thread the nylon torque rod horns onto both
aileron torque rods until the top of the horn is even with the
top of the torque rod as shown in the photograph.
How to cut covering from balsa.
To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron
instead of a hobby knife to cut the covering from the stab.
The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but
a fine tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully. Use
a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will
just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. Going
too slowly burns into the wood and weakens it. The hotter
the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fine
cut. Peel off the covering.
❍ 11. Make a two-arm servo arm by cutting two arms off
a four-arm servo arm. Enlarge the outer holes in the arm
with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64” [2mm]
drill bit).
Be sure to allow room for the aileron servo lead. If
necessary, cut away a small area for the lead to exit the
wing as shown. Glue the servo mount to the wing with 6minute epoxy.
❍ 12. Assemble the two aileron pushrods made from two
200mm wire pushrods, clevises, and silicone retainers.
To make the pushrods, thread the clevises onto the wire
pushrods approximately 25 full turns.
❍ Cut the wire that extends beyond the Faslink; be certain
to leave 1/16” [1.6mm] of wire protruding from the Faslink
as shown in the photograph.
❍ 15. Install the remaining pushrod in the same manner.
The above photo shows how your assembly should look
when finished.
❍ 13. Center the servo arm on the servo. Attach the clevis to
the torque rod horn; hold the aileron level with the bottom of
the wing, using a straight edge to assure accuracy. Mark the
location where the wire crosses the hole in the servo arm. At
this location bend the wire 90 degrees.
❍ 14. After bending the pushrods at your mark, slide the
Faslink over the wire and snap it into place on the pushrod.
❍ 1. In order to complete this section you will need the
following items as shown in the photograph above. You will
also need the wing (not shown) for alignment purposes.
Fuselage (1)
Stabilizer (Stab) (1)
Elevator (1)
Fin (1)
Rudder (1)
CA Hinges (7)
❍ 3. Use a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade and cut the
covering from the openings on both sides of the fuselage for
the stab. Also cut the covering from the opening in the top of
the fuselage for the fin. Remove the elevator from the stab.
❍ 2. Test fit the hinges into hinge slots in the stabilizer
and elevator and the fin and rudder. If necessary insert a
#11 blade into the hinge slots and run it back and forth to
enlarge them slightly.
Important Note: Remember to insert the hinges with the
cut running the correct direction.
❍ 4. Taking accurate measurements, locate the center of
the stab along the trailing edge. Slide the stab into the
fuselage and center it over the aft end of the fuselage.
Insert a T-pin through the stab and into the fuse at the
location shown in the photograph above. This will hold it in
place but will still allow for correct alignment.
❍ 5. Support the model with a small stand or cardboard
box. Place the wing into the wing saddle on the top of the
fuselage. Stand five to ten feet behind the model and view
the stab and wing. If the stab and wing align with each
other, proceed to the next step. If the stab and wing do not
align, place a small weight on the “high” side of the stab to
bring it into alignment. If much weight is required, remove
the stab and carefully sand the slot in the fuselage where
the stab fits until it aligns with the wing.
❍ 7. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other end of
the string and draw an arrow on it. Slide the tape along the
string and align the arrow with one end of the stab as
shown in the photograph.
❍ 6. Stick a T-pin into the top of the fuselage centered in the
middle stringer over the firewall. Tie a small loop in one end of
a piece of non-elastic string (K & S #801 Kevlar thread;
K&SR4575). Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin.
Swing the string over to the same position on the other end
of the stab. If the distance is not equal move the stab ½
way to the arrow then move the string back to the other
side to check alignment. Adjust the stab in this manner
until both sides are equal.
❍ 8. When you are satisfied with the alignment of the stab
use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite Panel Line
Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of the fuselage onto
the top and bottom of the stab.
11. Apply 30-minute epoxy to all joining surfaces of the
stab. Slide the stab into position. Wipe away residual
epoxy with a tissue dampened with rubbing/denatured
alcohol. If the stab required a weight on one side or the
other to align it with the wing, position the weight. Use the
pin and string to confirm stab alignment. Do not disturb the
model until the epoxy has fully hardened.
❍ 9. Remove the stab from the fuselage. Use a sharp #11
hobby knife, or refer to the Expert Tip on page 10, to cut
the covering from the stab 1/16” [1.6mm] inside the lines
you marked on the top and bottom of the stab. Do not
remove the covering from the trailing edge of the stab. Use
care to cut only into the covering and not into the wood.
Cutting into the balsa will weaken the structure.
❍ 12. Apply 30-minute epoxy to all joining surfaces of the fin.
Insert the fin and wipe away excess epoxy. Use a 90-degree
triangle to check that the fin is vertical. If necessary, use
masking tape to pull the tip of the fin to one side or other of the
stab until it is vertical. Do not disturb the model until the epoxy
has fully hardened.
When the epoxy has fully hardened, make sure the rudder
and elevator are in the proper position with all the hinges
properly installed. Place six drops of thin CA on both sides
of each hinge location. Let the CA cure completely. Do not
use activator. Pull on each control surface to make sure it
is glued properly and securely.
❍ 10. Note: If you like you may remove the rudder and
elevator from the fin and stab for these steps. We will glue
them into place later.
Fit the fin into the fuselage and mark the location of the
fuselage onto the fin with a felt tip pin. Also mark the
location of the fin on top of the fuselage. Using the same
method as with the stab, cut the covering material from the
marks on the bottom of the fin and the top of the fuselage.
❍ 1. For this step you will need the following items as
shown in the photograph above.
Fuselage (1)
Wing Mounting Dowels (2)
2.6mm x 8mm Wood Screws (4)
Molded Wing Dowel Covers (4)
❍ 3. Note: One of the wing mounting dowels is 3mm
longer. Place the longer one in the position to the front of
the fuselage.
Insert both wing mounting dowels so they protrude an equal
amount on both sides of the fuselage. Mix ¼ oz. [7ml] of 30minute epoxy. Apply glue around the dowels next to the
fuselage and slide them in and out of the fuselage to help
distribute the epoxy into the fuselage. Using a paper towel
spread the excess epoxy around the ends of the dowels. This
will fuelproof and add strength to the wood. From the inside of
the fuselage, apply more epoxy around the dowels where they
meet the sides of the fuselage. These wing dowels will be used
as the anchors for the rubber bands to hold the wing in
position. Wipe off all excess epoxy using a paper towel and
rubbing/denatured alcohol.
❍ 2. Locate the four positions for the 7mm wing dowel
holes by gently pressing the covering in the areas on the
fuselage sides just below the wing saddles. These
positions can be seen from the inside of the fuselage.
Carefully cut the covering material from the holes using a
sharp hobby knife.
After the epoxy has cured add the molded wing dowel
covers and attach them with four 2.6mm x 8mm wood
screws into the pre-drilled holes in the ends of the wing
dowels as shown in the photograph above.
❍ 1. To complete this step you will need the following items
as shown in the photograph above.
the top of the tank and then insert this assembly into in the
tank. Tighten the screw to expand the stopper, thus sealing
the tank. Be certain the clunk at the end of the fuel line
inside the tank does not contact the rear of the tank.
Otherwise, the line may become stuck above the fuel level
and discontinue fuel flow.
Fuel Tank (1)
Clunk (1)
Fuel Pickup Tube (1)
Vent Tube (1)
Fuel Line for Pickup (1)
Stopper with Hardware (1)
Fuel Line (1)
Remember (or use a felt-tip pen to mark) which tube is the
fuel pick-up tube and which tube is the vent (that will be
connected to the pressure fitting on the muffler). Place the
fuel lines on the vent and fuel pick-up tubes at this time.
Note: The fuel tank parts shown in the photo are placed
inside the tank at the factory.
❍ 3. Install the tank in the fuselage with the neck of the
tank inserted into the hole in the firewall. Secure the tank
into place with RTV silicone or Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo
(PAAR3200) around the stopper. Then slip the tank into
place. Also put a bead of silicone around the stopper on
the front of the firewall.
❍ 2. Assemble the stopper, tubes, and clunk as shown
in the photograph. Bend the vent tube so it is just below
NOTE: The engine in your airplane is mounted slightly different from that of most R/C aircraft. This is done to allow the use of many
different types of engines. It also allows a “no-drill” approach to ease the engine installation. Read through the procedure and
understand all the steps before actually performing them.
❍ 1. To complete this step you will need the following items
as shown in the photograph above.
Threadlocker on the machine screws to keep them from
vibrating loose. Blind nuts are pre-installed behind the firewall.
Fuselage (1)
Muffler for Engine (1) (not supplied)
Engine (1) (not supplied)
Spinner (1)
Propeller (1) (not supplied)
Engine Mount, .40 size (1)
Engine Mounting Straps (2)
4mm x 20mm Machine Screws (4)
4mm x 25mm Machine Screws (4)
4mm Lock Washers (8)
4mm Nuts (4)
❍ 3. The engine’s mounting lugs are “sandwiched” between
the engine mount and the engine mount straps. Begin by
placing four 4mm lock washers onto each of the four 4mm x
25mm machine screws.
Pass two of the screws through the two engine mount straps
and place the screws through the back holes of the engine
mount as shown in the photograph. Place two 4mm nuts into
the recesses on the bottom of the engine mount. Start the
screws, but do not tighten them at this time.
❍ 2. Secure the engine mount to the firewall with four 4mm
x 20mm machine screws and 4mm lock washers. Use
❍ 4. With the engine in place, install the remaining two
4mm x 25mm machine screws, 4mm lock washers, and
4mm nuts in place at the front of the engine mount as
shown in the photograph. Do not tighten the screws at this
time to allow for the positioning of the engine.
❍ 7. Attach the silicone fuel lines to the engine. The line
you marked “Vent” should be attached to the muffler. The
other line will be attached to the needle valve. Make sure
there are no sharp bends in the lines. If so, carefully adjust
the lines to allow for a smooth flowing bend to the
appropriate fitting of the engine.
❍ 5. Install the spinner backplate, propeller, propeller washer
and the propeller nut onto the engine. Turn the propeller
counterclockwise until it is against the smallest pins on the
backplate. Keep the propeller horizontal when the engine is
against its compression [the point at which you feel resistance
when you turn the crankshaft counterclockwise]. Use an
adjustable wrench to securely tighten the propeller nut.
8. Attach the spinner cone with the screws provided. Be
careful not to overtighten these screws. They are threaded
into plastic that can strip out if they are over tightened.
❍ 6. Measure the distance from the spinner backplate to the
firewall. It should be 3-3/4” [95mm] on both sides of the
spinner backplate. Adjust the engine if needed and tighten the
screws evenly, using Threadlocker on the screws and the nuts
to secure the engine to the mount. Following the engine
manufacturer’s instructions, install the muffler to the engine.
❍ 1. To complete this step you will need the following items
as shown in the photograph above.
of the fuselage. If they will not go in easily, drill out the two
holes using a 5/32” [4mm] drill bit. Next, use the drill bit or
hobby knife to bevel the inside corners of the holes so that
the bend in the wire will seat fully into the holes and the
wire will be flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Place the
landing gear wires into the channel. Look carefully and you
will find four pre-drilled holes under the covering. They can
be seen in the photograph.
Fuselage (1)
Main Landing Gear (2)
Nose Gear (1)
Wheels (3)
4mm x 12mm Phillips Head Screws (2)
Nose Gear Bearing Block (1)
4mm Wheel Collars (8)
3mm x 8mm Phillips Head Set Screw (1)
(For Nose Gear Steering Arm Only)
3mm x 5mm Phillips Head Set Screw (7)
4mm Flat Washers (2)
Landing Gear Straps (2)
3mm X 10mm Phillips Head Wood Screws (4)
Nylon Steering Arm (1)
Screw Lock Pushrod Connector Assembly (1)
❍ 3. At the locations of the pre-drilled holes attach the
nylon landing gear straps to the fuselage using the four
3mm x 10mm Phillips head wood screws and the nylon
landing gear straps as shown in the above photograph.
❍ 2. Test fit the two main landing gear wires into the
pre-drilled holes inside the channel located in the bottom
photograph. Place the washer on the threaded stem followed
by the wheel-type nut. Apply Threadlocker to the threaded
stem and then gently tighten the nut. It is important not to
overtighten this nut; this would not allow the screw lock
pushrod connector to rotate on the steering arm while in
operation. Adjust the tightness of the nut and test the
connector’s ability to rotate but still be somewhat tight. When
you are satisfied with this adjustment place a small amount of
Threadlocker on the top of the nut and allow it to wick down
into the threads.
❍ 7. Place another wheel collar with a 3mm x 5mm
Phillips head set screw onto the nose gear wire then
insert the nose gear wire into the nose gear bearing
bracket. As you slide it through the bearing bracket, hold
the assembled steering arm in place and slide the nose
gear through the steering arm and into the hole in the
bottom of the engine mount. Note that the existing flat spot
on the nose gear wire is facing forward. When you have the
nose gear installed tighten the two Phillips head set screws
in the wheel collars to complete the installation.
❍ 4. Install the nose gear by attaching the nose gear
bearing bracket to the firewall with two 4mm x 12mm
Phillips head screws and the two 4mm washers which
must go behind the bracket so they act as spacers as
shown in the photograph above. Apply Threadlocker to
these screws before installing them.
❍ 5. The steering arm should be cut off as shown in the
above photograph. Place one of the wheel collars into the
steering arm base, making sure the threaded hole for the
set screw is aligned with the hole in the steering arm base
as shown in the photograph above. The 3mm x 8mm
Phillips head set screw is then placed into the wheel
collar through the hole in the base of the steering arm.
❍ 8. Place a wheel collar and a wheel on the nose gear and
landing gear axles. Add the second wheel collar on the outside
of the wheel to each axle. Center the wheel on the axles as
shown in the photograph. Mark the location of the outer wheel
collar on the axles with a felt tipped pen. Remove the wheel
collars and wheels. Then file or grind a 1/4” [6mm] flat spot on
the axles of the main and nose gear at the locations you
marked. This is done to prevent the wheel collar from turning
or becoming loose during flight. Secure the 3 wheels on the
axles using the 3mm x 5mm Phillips head set screws in the
wheel collars, using Threadlocker on the set screws to hold
them securely in place.
❍ 6. Place the screw lock pushrod connector onto the
steering arm exactly as shown in the above photograph.
Important Note: The screw lock pushrod connector is
assembled in the bag. In order to place it onto the steering arm
you will need to remove the wheel-type nut and the washer on
the end of the unit. Insert the threaded stem of the unit into the
hole on the steering arm in the manner shown in the
Double check all the wheels to make sure they still spin
freely. If not, move the inner wheel collar away from the
wheel slightly and retighten the screw.
To complete this step you will need the following items, as shown in the photograph above.
Protective Foam (2)
Faslinks (2)
Screw Lock Pushrod Connector (1)
Silicone Clevis Retainers (3)
Clevises (3)
Control Horn Backplates (2)
Control Horns (2)
2mm x 14mm Phillips Head Screws (4)
#9 680mm Threaded Elevator-Rudder Pushrods (2)
#10 Battery/Receiver Tray (1)
#11 2.6mm x 8mm Wood Screws (4)
#12 105mm Threaded One End Throttle Pushrod (1)
#13 105mm Un-threaded Steering Pushrod (1)
#14 Plastic Steering/Throttle Pushrod Guide Tubes (2)
#15 10mm x 13mm x 80mm Balsa Pushrod Support (1)
#16 Hook and Loop Material (2)
The items shown in the above photograph will also be needed from the radio system.
Servos (3)
Receiver (1)
Switch (1)
Rubber Grommets (12)
Brass Eyelets (12)
Servo Mounting Screws (12)
Aileron Extension Wire (1)
Receiver Battery (1)
❍ 4. Screw two nylon clevises 25 full turns onto the two
680mm threaded wire pushrods. Slip silicone retainers over
the clevises.
❍ 1. There is a 5mm hole in the firewall for the pushrod
guide tube that will align with the throttle arm on most twostroke engines. Use medium sandpaper to roughen both
plastic pushrod guide tubes. Insert one pushrod guide tube
through the hole in the firewall for the throttle, and the other
for the steering pushrod guide tube.
Slit the covering material where the guide tubes exit the
fuselage with a hobby knife. The location of the rudder
tube exit is on top of the fuse next to the fin and the
elevator tube exit is located on the same side of fuse under
the stab. After you have made your cuts, slide the
pushrods through the guide tubes. Connect the clevises to
the control horns placing them in the second hole from
the end of the horn as shown.
❍ 2. Thread a nylon clevis 25 full turns onto the 500mm
threaded throttle pushrod wire. Slip a silicone retainer
over the clevis. Insert the pushrod with the clevis all the
way into the throttle pushrod guide tube and connect the
clevis to the throttle arm on the engine as shown in the
photograph above.
❍ 5. Position the control horns on the elevator and rudder
as shown in the photograph. The row of holes in the horns
should be over the hinge line. If necessary small bends
may be made in the pushrods to position them with the
control surfaces. Mark the locations of the holes in the
base of the control horns on the elevator and rudder. At
these locations drill 5/64” [2mm] holes through the elevator
and rudder for mounting the control horns with 2mm x
14mm phillips head screws, and then mount the control
horns using the screws and the nylon backing plates on the
other side of the control surfaces.
❍ 3. Run the un-threaded 500mm steering pushrod through
the Screw Lock Pushrod Connector and continue pushing it all
the way into the steering rod guide tube. Position the pushrod
guide tubes to extend approximately 1/8” [3mm] past the
firewall and glue them into place using 6-minute epoxy.
Elevator Arm
Throttle Arm
Rudder/Steering Arm
❍ 1. You must modify 3 servo arms to be used in this
section. Starting with the 4 armed servo arms supplied with
your radio system, modify them exactly as shown in the
above illustration. Enlarge the holes in the locations shown
with a Hobbico Servo Horn Drill (or a #48 or 5/64" [2mm]
drill bit).
Note: You may wish to trim the excess material from the arms
as shown in the illustration and the following photographs.
❍ 4. With the servos mounted into place, carefully center
the rudder with the fin and the elevator with the stab. While
the control surfaces are centered, use a felt-tip pin to place
a mark on the pushrod wire at the location of the hole in the
servo arm as shown in the above photograph.
❍ 2. Place the grommets and brass eyelets on the three
servos using the diagram above as a guide. Place the
servos in the servo tray in the orientation shown in the
following photographs.
❍ 5. Use pliers to make a 90-degree bend at the marks.
Disconnect the clevises from the elevator and rudder
control horns. Remove the servo arms from the servos and
run the pushrod through the hole in the servo arm from the
bottom of the arm. Place a nylon Faslink to each pushrod,
and then cut the wire with 1/16” [1.5mm] protruding from
the Faslinks. Reattach the clevises to the control horns.
❍ 3. With your servo arms aligned at 90-degrees to the
servos, position the servos so the holes in the servo arms,
the holes you enlarged, cross the elevator and rudder
pushrods. Carefully mark on the servo tray the four
locations of each servo for the servo mounting screws. At
these locations drill 1/16” [1.6mm] holes through the servo
tray. Install the servo mounting screws and then remove
them, creating threads in the wood at all the locations. Add
a drop of thin CA to each hole and allow it to harden (it is
best to take the servos out of the tray while doing this to
avoid gluing the servos to the tray). Reposition the servos
and mount them to the tray with the screws.
Reinstall the elevator servo arm on the servo with the screw.
Use a hobby knife with a sharp blade and cut the steering
pushrod guide tube at the location shown in the above
photograph. Do not cut the steering pushrod at this time.
❍ 6. Carefully align the nose wheel as straight as possible.
Align the steering pushrod with the second hole (out from
the center) in the rudder servo arm and place a mark on the
steering pushrod as shown in the above photograph. As
you did with the previous pushrods, make a 90-degree
bend at the mark, install the servo arm and the Faslink, and
cut off the excess steering push rod. Put the rudder/nose
gear steering arm on the servo with the screw.
❍ 8. Install the battery/receiver mounting plate into the
fuselage using four 2.6mm x 8mm wood screws as shown
in the above photograph.
Note: You may place the supplied hook and loop material
into the battery/receiver mounting plate prior to mounting
the plate into the fuselage. It is a bit more difficult if you
wait to do this when you mount the receiver and battery.
Refer to step #10 for location.
❍ 7. Install the throttle servo into the servo tray as shown
above using the same method used to mount the previous
two servos with the servo mounting screws. Center the
throttle servo arm on the throttle servo as shown in the
above photograph.
Cut the guide tube using a sharp hobby knife at the
location in the photograph. Remove the throttle servo arm
and install the screw lock pushrod connector in the last
hole on the servo arm. Slip the throttle pushrod into the
screw lock pushrod connector and reinstall the servo arm
onto the servo with the screw.
Before tightening the screw lock pushrod connector look
inside the carburetor on the engine and move the throttle
pushrod until the barrel of the carburetor is ½ open. With
the throttle servo arm still centered on the servo, tighten
the screw on top of the screw lock pushrod connector.
Using the above photograph as a reference, cut off the
excess throttle pushrod but leave a minimum of ½” (13mm)
of excess rod for adjustments later.
❍ 9. Locate the cutout for the on/off switch on the left
side of the fuselage, away from your engine exhaust and
cut the covering from this cutout. Remove the cover plate
from the radio system on/off switch and use it as a pattern
to drill the two holes on either side of the cutout. This will
allow you to mount the on/off switch by placing the two
screws back into the cover plate and placing them through
the fuselage side. Hold the on/off switch in place and
reinsert and tighten the two screws in the on/off switch.
❍ 12. Make a pushrod guide tube support by using the
supplied 10mm x 13mm x 80mm balsa material. Place it
into the fuse as shown in the photograph above and mark
the locations of the throttle and steering guide tubes. Cut,
sand, or file a V or notch at these locations. Use sandpaper
to roughen the outer surface of the tubes where they meet
the guide tube support.
Reposition the guide tube support making sure the tubes rest
in the notches and do not bind or put pressure on the
pushrods. When satisfied with the fit, glue the support into
place and glue the guide tubes to the support using 6-minute
epoxy. Be careful not to get glue in the opening of the guide
tube or on the pushrod.
❍ 10. Connect the aileron extension, servo leads, battery
and switch wires to the receiver as directed by your radio
system manual. Wrap both the battery pack and receiver in
the supplied protective foam rubber to protect them from
vibration. Secure both the battery pack and receiver in the
model by placing the supplied hook and loop material
through the slots in the battery/receiver mounting plate and
then around the battery and receiver.
❍ 1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals
from the sheet.
❍ 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket
with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water-about
one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse the
decal in the soap and water and peel off the paper backing.
Note: Even though the decals have a "sticky-back" and are
not the water transfer type, submersing them in soap &
water allows accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles
❍ 11. Make an antenna strain relief from one of the cut-off
servo arms and install it on the antenna. Route the receiver
antenna out of the fuselage as close to the receiver as you
can by drilling a 5/64” (2mm) hole in the side of the
fuselage and running the antenna through the side of the
fuselage. Connect the antenna to a hook made from
another leftover servo arm that was connected to a rubber
band and a T-pin inserted into the top of the fin.
❍ 3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding
the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the
water away.
❍ 4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the
rest of the decals the same way.
Now move the throttle stick forward to full. Make sure that
the carburetor barrel opens all the way. If it doesn’t open
far enough or opens too far [bending the rod] move the
pushrod and screw lock pushrod connector in or out on
the servo arm and/or the clevis on the carburetor arm to
gain or reduce movement. The throw will be correct when
the carburetor barrel will stop fully open at the same time
the throttle stick reaches full. With the throttle set up
properly, you should be able to run the engine with the trim
lever set midway to the full position [adjusted for a smooth
but slow idle]. Then when it is time to stop the engine,
simply pull back the trim to close the carburetor and the
engine will stop running.
Check the Control Surface Movements
❍ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims on the transmitter. If necessary, remove the servo
arms from the servos and reposition them so they are
centered. Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.
❍ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
control surfaces to see if they are centered. Use a straight
edge to help get them set correctly. If necessary, adjust the
clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
Set the Control Throws
❍ Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to
accurately measure and set the control throw of each
control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. If your
radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting the
throws at the low rate setting.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevator, rudder and ailerons.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
High Rate
❍ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the
carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown in the
diagram above. If any of the controls respond in the wrong
direction, use the servo reversing switches in the
transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those
controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained
centered. Re-adjust if necessary.
For added safety and convenience, the throttle should be
set up so that the engine can be stopped using the throttle
trim. To do this remove the clevis from the carburetor arm
and move the throttle pushrod so that the carburetor is
completely closed with the throttle stick and trim lever on
the transmitter fully back. Next, adjust the clevis so that
when the clevis is connected the carburetor barrel is in the
fully closed position. Then test the trim lever by advancing
it to full. This will be a fast idle position with the carburetor
barrel open slightly [about 1/32” or .8mm].
Low Rate
1/2” [13mm] up
3/8” [9.5mm] up
1/2” [13mm] down 3/8” [9.5mm] down
1” [25mm] left
1” [25mm] right
1” [25mm] left
1” [25mm] right
5/8” [16mm] up
5/8” [16mm] down
1/2” [13mm] up
1/2” [13mm] down
IMPORTANT: The Tower Trainer 40 MKII ARF has been
extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will
provide you with the greatest chance for successful first
flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way
the Tower Trainer 40 MKII ARF flies, you would like to
change the throws to suit your taste, that is fine. However,
too much control throw could make the model difficult to
control, so remember, “more is not always better.”
Balance the Model (C.G.)
Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of
weight on the fuselage over the firewall until the model
balances. Once you have determined the amount of weight
required, it can be permanently attached. If required, tail
weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the
fuselage and gluing it permanently inside.
More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity or,
balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a
model flies, and may determine whether or not your first
flight will be successful. If you value this model and wish to
enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS
IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly
balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the
lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel
and exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause
the weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV
silicone or epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine,
landing gear, and the radio system.
❍ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Also, if you found it necessary to move any radio components
make sure they are securely reinstalled inside the fuselage.
❍ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8”-wide tape to accurately mark
the C.G. on the bottom of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 3-1/2“ [89 mm] back from the
leading edge of the wing. This is where your model should
balance for your first flights. Later, you may wish to
experiment by shifting the C.G. up to 1/4” [6 mm] forward
or 1/4” [6 mm] back to change the flying characteristics.
Moving the C.G. forward may improve the smoothness and
stability, but it may then require more speed for takeoff and
make it more difficult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G.
aft makes the model more maneuverable, but could also
cause it to become too difficult for you to control. In any
case, start at the location we recommend and do not at any
time balance your model outside the recommended range.
Balance the Model Laterally
❍ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuselage under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
❍ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
the necessary amount of stick-on weight to the other wing
tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced will
track better in loops and other maneuvers.
❍ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model on a Great Planes CG Machine (GPMR2400),
or lift it at the balance point you marked.
❍ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the
battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted to the rear or weight must
be added to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the
battery pack and receiver to minimize or eliminate any
additional ballast required. If additional weight is required,
nose weight may be easily added by using a “spinner
weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. weight, or GPMQ4646 for
the 2 oz. weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is not
enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A
good place to add stick-on nose weight is to the firewall.
Ground Check
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,
confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly
and rapidly to full power and maintains full power—
indefinitely. After you run the engine on the model, inspect
the model closely to make sure all screws remained tight,
the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods
and connectors are secure.
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag at the end of this manual and place it on
or inside your model.
Range Check
Refer to your radio system’s manual and ground check the
operational range of your radio before the first flight of the
day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the
receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at
least 100 feet away from the model and still have control.
Have an assistant stand by your model and, while you
work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell,
or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with
your radio control system to charge the batteries. You
should always charge your transmitter and receiver
batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times
as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
NOTE: Checking the condition of your receiver battery pack
is highly recommended. All battery packs, whether it’s a
trusty pack you’ve just taken out of another model, or a new
battery pack you just purchased, should be cycled, noting the
discharge capacity. Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can be
identified (and a valuable model saved!) by comparing its
actual capacity to its rated capacity. Refer to the instructions
and recommendations that come with your cycler. If you don’t
own a battery cycler, perhaps you can have a friend cycle your
pack and note the capacity for you.
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
Balance Propellers
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers
before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first
flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to
overlook certain checks and procedures that should be
performed before the model is flown. To help avoid this,
a checklist is provided to make sure these important
areas are not overlooked. Many are covered in the
instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to the
manual for complete instructions. Be sure to check the
items off as they are completed.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so
fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.
❍ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust
residue such as the wing saddle area, etc.
❍ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
❍ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuselage. Simply stuffing them into
place with foam rubber is not sufficient.
❍ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has
a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off
the solder joint inside the receiver.
❍ 5. Balance your model laterally as explained in the manual.
❍ 6. Use thread locking compound to secure critical
fasteners such as the screws that hold the wheel
collars to the axles, screws that hold the carburetor
arm (if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
❍ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
turn freely.
❍ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❍ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA
where appropriate (servo mounting screws, etc.).
❍ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
❍ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
❍ 12. Secure connections between servo wires or servo
extensions, and the connection between your battery
pack and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink
tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.
❍ 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo
arms, pushrods, etc.).
❍ 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound
or J.B. Weld.
❍ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and not kinked.
❍ 16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❍ 17. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❍ 18. Place your name, address, AMA number and
telephone number on or inside your model.
❍ 19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❍ 20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
❍ 21. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight-tested.
2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly
my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the
pit or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit
or spectator areas, unless beyond my control.
4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
Flying a model with too few rubber bands can be
dangerous. If the wing momentarily lifts from the
fuselage and acts as though a large amount of “up”
elevator has suddenly been applied because there
are not enough rubber bands or they are too weak,
internal structural damage may result. Even worse,
the wing could actually detach from the fuselage
resulting in a crash. If the model exhibits any
tendencies that indicate there are not enough
rubber bands, immediately reduce power, land and
closely inspect the model for damage. If no damage
is found, add more rubber bands.
You have put a lot of effort into assembling your model and
it looks great! Protect your investment by following a few
simple tips:
1. If possible, have an experienced modeler look over your
work before you head out to your flying field. It’s easier to
fix problems in the workshop instead of on the flight line. It
is also highly recommended to obtain help from an
experienced modeler to act as a flight instructor. It is
possible to teach yourself to fly a radio controlled model,
but you will have a much more pleasant experience and
incur a lot less damage to your first model with the help of
a qualified flight instructor.
2. Become familiar with starting your engine, and break it
in before your first flight. Be sure the engine will stop when
the trim lever is pulled all the way back.
3. Assemble a simple flight kit which should include a
starting battery and a glow-plug clip (or ni-starter),
“chicken stick” for flipping the prop, fuel and a means of
filling the tank, a couple of small screwdrivers, #64 rubber
bands, spare prop and glow plug, 6” adjustable wrench,
and a pair of needle nose pliers. In addition to tools, you
should also take along some paper towels and spray
window cleaner to remove fuel residue after each flight.
Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow, steady
idle. Have your instructor or a helper hold the plane while
you work the controls. Upon release of the plane, advance
the throttle slightly to start rolling, and then back off the
power to prevent going too fast and possibly taking off.
Stand behind the plane as it taxies away from you and note
the direction it turns as you move the rudder control. One
thing to keep in mind with R/C models (whether it be cars,
boats, or planes) is that the steering controls may seem to
“reverse” when the model is moving toward you. For
example, if you are flying toward yourself, and you give a
right control input (ailerons or rudder), the model will move
off to your left. The fact of the matter is, of course, that the
controls are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter
a right turn. The plane does move off to your left from your
vantage point, but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit
you would realize the plane turned to the right as
commanded. All it takes is a little practice to maintain
proper orientation of your aircraft, but that’s why we
recommend finding an instructor.
4. When you load up to go to the flying field be sure that the
radio system batteries have charged for at least 14 hours, and
that you have your fuselage, wing, transmitter and flight box.
And, most important, you have your AMA license.
5. Range check the radio! See the manufacturers
instructions included with your radio system.
Mount the wing to the fuselage with the 12 supplied rubber
bands. Install them from front to back, crisscrossing the
last two. Never use torn, cracked or oily rubber bands.
After removing the rubber bands from your model, store
them in a container with talcum powder or clay-type kitty
litter to absorb oil and keep them fresh for the next flying
When you feel comfortable, advance the throttle a little
while standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff
roll, but pull back on the power before the model lifts off.
Try this several times, adding a little more power each time.
Use the rudder stick on your transmitter to steer the plane
with the nose wheel while on the ground. If the plane starts
to veer off, immediately cut the power to prevent a mishap.
If the rubber bands you will be using are different from
those recommended, consult an experienced modeler to
make certain they are strong enough, and that you have
used enough of them. If uncertain, force the front of the
wing off of the wing saddle. There should be considerable
resistance! If the wing can be forced from the fuselage
without having to strain your hands, then there are
probably not enough rubber bands.
Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly,
we strongly recommend that you find an instructor to help
get you started. Although trainers offer the greatest
opportunity of success for the self-taught, there is a high
probability that you will crash your airplane on the first
flight. Protect your investment of time and money—obtain
the assistance of an experienced R/C pilot.
Your first flight should be made in little or no wind. If you have
dual rates on your transmitter, set the switches to “low rate” for
takeoff. Taxi into position, pointing directly into the wind.
Although this model has good low speed characteristics, you
should always gain as much speed as your runway will permit
before lifting off, as this will give you a safety margin in case of
a “flame-out”. Advance the throttle smoothly to the wide-open
setting. When the plane has sufficient flying speed (you won’t
know until you try), lift off by smoothly applying a little up
elevator (don’t force it off into a steep climb!), and climb out
gradually, trying to keep it straight and the wings level. Climb
to about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle turn by moving
the aileron stick. Apply a little more backpressure on the
elevator stick as the model turns. Stop the turn by moving the
aileron stick in the opposite direction until the wings are level,
then return the stick to the neutral position. Pull the power
back to 1/2 throttle.
When it’s time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach as follows: Reduce the power to about ¼ throttle
and fly a downwind leg far enough out from the runway to
allow you to make a gentle 180-degree turn. As you make the
turn into the wind for your final approach, pull the throttle back
to idle. Most trainer planes have a lot of lift, so you will need a
slow, reliable idle in order to achieve a nice, slow landing. Allow
the plane to keep descending on a gradual glide slope until you
are about 3 feet off the runway. Gradually apply a little up
elevator to flare for landing. You should apply just enough up
elevator to hold the plane just off the runway while the excess
speed bleeds off. The model should settle onto the runway for
a slow slightly nose-high landing.
After you have several flights on your model, it’s time to reward
yourself with your first aerobatic maneuver – a loop. Climb to a
safe altitude and turn into the wind. Apply full throttle, level the
wings, then slowly pull back on the elevator stick to about ½
to ¾ up elevator (depending on your throws), and hold this
control input. After you go over the top and start down the
backside of the loop, pull the throttle back to about half. This
will keep the stresses on the airplane low and the airspeed
relatively constant. Keep holding “up” elevator until the plane
is level, and then slowly release the stick. You’re done! It’s really
that easy!
We recommend that you take it easy with your model for the
first several flights and gradually “get acquainted” with the
plane as your engine becomes fully broken-in. Trainers are
designed to fly level with neutral elevator trim at approximately
1/3 – ½ throttle – this is the best speed for learning to fly. On
later flights, if you want your model to maintain level flight at full
throttle, you will need to give it a little down trim.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
The fuel mixture should be richened so the engine runs at
about 200 rpm below peak speed. By running the engine
slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick landings
caused by overheating and will keep your engine
lubricated well during the break-in period.
Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level flight
with gentle turns to keep the model over the field. These flights
will give you practice at coordinating your control inputs and
maintaining the proper orientation of the airplane. As
mentioned earlier, turns are accomplished by banking the
aircraft with the ailerons then gently adding some back stick
(up elevator). Enough back stick should be held in to keep the
aircraft at a constant altitude. To stop turning, apply opposite
aileron to level the wings, then release the stick. There is a
memory aid that may help keep you out of trouble when the
plane is flying toward you –“put the stick under the low wing.”
In other words, move the aileron stick in the direction of the low
wing to raise that wing. When you are comfortable flying the
aircraft, you can practice using the rudder along with the
ailerons to “coordinate” the turns – usually, a small amount of
rudder applied in the direction of the turn will keep the tail
following in the exact same track as the nose.
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
flutter. Because flutter can quickly destroy components
of your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane!
Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this may
indicate which surface fluttered), and make sure all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If the
control surface fluttered once, it probably will flutter
again under similar circumstances unless you can
eliminate the free-play or flexing in the linkages. Here
are some things which can cause flutter: Excessive
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit
of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube
caused by tight bends; Excessive play or backlash in
servo gears; and Insecure servo mounting.
The most common mistake when learning to fly is “over
control.” Think of pressure instead of large movements of the
control sticks. Remember, most trainers will recover from
almost any over-control situation (given enough altitude) if you
simply let go of the sticks.
Add and practice one maneuver at a time, learning how
your model behaves in each one. For ultra-smooth flying
and normal maneuvers, we recommend using the “lowrate” settings. High rate control throws will give your model
enough control for loops, barrel rolls, and many other basic
aerobatic maneuvers.
Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe
is advisable to mount the charge jack in an accessible area
of the fuselage so an ESV can be used without removing
the wing.
Adverse Yaw - The tendency of an airplane to yaw in the
opposite direction of the roll. For instance, when right
aileron is applied, the airplane yaws to the left, thus
opposing the turn. Adverse yaw is common in trainer type
airplanes having flat bottom wings. It is most noticeable at
slow speeds and high angles of attack, such as during
takeoffs and when stretching a landing approach. Caused
by the unequal drag of the upward and downward
deflection of the ailerons, this undesirable trait can be
minimized by setting up the ailerons with Differential Throw
or by coordinating the turns, using the aileron and rudder
controls simultaneously. (See Differential Throw.)
Charger - Device used to recharge batteries and usually
supplied with the radio if NiCd batteries are included.
Chicken Stick - A hand-held stick used to “flip start” a
model airplane engine.
Clunk - A weighted fuel pick-up used in a fuel tank to
assure the intake line is always in fuel.
Dead Stick - A term used to describe unpowered flight
(glide) when the engine quits running.
Ailerons - Hinged control surfaces located on the trailing
edge of the wing, one on each side, which provide control
of the airplane about the roll axis. The control direction is
often confusing to first time modelers. For a right roll or
turn, the right hand aileron is moved upward and the left
hand aileron downward, and vice versa for a left roll or turn.
Differential Throw - Ailerons that are set up to deflect
more in the upward direction than downward are said to
have Differential Throw. The purpose is to counteract
Adverse Yaw.
Angle of Attack - The angle that the wing penetrates the
air. As the angle of attack increases so does lift and drag,
up to a point.
Dihedral - The V-shaped bend in the wing. Typically, more
dihedral causes more aerodynamic stability in an airplane,
and causes the rudder to control both the roll and yaw axis.
This is why some trainers and sailplanes require only 3
channels of radio control—i.e., having no ailerons.
ARF - A prefabricated model - Almost Ready to Fly.
Ding - Minor dent or damage to the structure. Also, a nick
in a prop. Dinged props must be replaced.
Buddy Box - Two similar transmitters that are wired
together with a “trainer cord.” This is most useful when
learning to fly — it’s the same as having dual controls. The
instructor can take control by using the “trainer switch” on
his transmitter.
Down Thrust - Downward angle of the engine relative to
the centerline of the airplane. Down thrust helps overcome
the normal climbing tendency of flat bottom wings.
Electric Starter - A hand-held electric motor used for
starting a model airplane engine. Usually powered by a 12volt battery.
CA (Abbreviation for “Cyanoacrylate”) - An instant type
glue that is available in various viscosities (Thin, Medium,
Thick, and Gel). These glues are ideal for the assembly of
wood airplanes and other materials. Note: Most CA glues
will attack Styrofoam.
Elevator - Hinged control surface located at the trailing
edge of the horizontal stabilizer, which provides control of
the airplane about the pitch axis and causes the airplane to
climb or dive. The correct direction of control is to pull the
transmitter elevator control stick back, toward the bottom
of the transmitter, to move the elevator upward, which
causes the airplane to climb, and vice versa to dive.
Carburetor - The part of the engine which controls the
speed or throttle setting and lean/rich mixture via setting of
the needle valve.
CG (“Center of Gravity”) - For modeling purposes, this is
usually considered — the point at which the airplane
balances fore to aft. This point is critical in regards to how
the airplane reacts in the air. A tail-heavy plane will be very
snappy but generally very unstable and susceptible to more
frequent stalls. If the airplane is nose heavy, it will tend to
track better and be less sensitive to control inputs, but, will
generally drop its nose when the throttle is reduced to idle.
This makes the plane more difficult to land since it takes
more effort to hold the nose up. A nose heavy airplane will
have to come in faster to land safely.
Epoxy - A two-part resin/hardener glue that is extremely
strong. It is generally available in 6 and 30-minute formulas.
Used for critical points in the aircraft where high strength
is necessary.
Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV) - Device used to read
the battery voltage of the on-board battery pack or
transmitter battery pack.
Field Charger - A fast battery charger designed to work
from a 12-volt power source, such as a car battery.
Charge Jack - The plug receptacle of the switch harness
into which the charger is plugged to charge the airborne
battery. An expanded scale voltmeter (ESV) can also be
plugged into it to check battery voltage between flights. It
Flaps - Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge
of the wing inboard of the ailerons. The flaps are lowered to
produce more aerodynamic lift from the wing, allowing a
slower takeoff and landing speed. Flaps are often found on
scale models, but usually not on basic trainers.
Grease-In - A very smooth, gentle landing without a hint of
a bounce.
Hit (or to be hit) - Sudden radio interference which causes
your model to fly in an erratic manner. Most often caused
by someone turning on a radio that is on your frequency,
but can be caused by other radio sources miles away.
Flare - The point during the landing approach in which the
pilot gives an increased amount of up elevator to smooth
the touchdown of the airplane.
Flight Box - A special box used to hold and transport all
equipment used at the flying field.
Horizontal Stabilizer - The horizontal tail surface at the
back of the fuselage which provides aerodynamic pitch
stability to the airplane.
Flight Pack (or Airborne pack) - All of the radio equipment
installed in the airplane, i.e., Receiver, Servos, Battery,
Switch Harness.
Idle Bar Plug - This type of glow plug has a “bar” across
the tip to help prevent raw fuel from being splashed onto
the glow element. Too much raw fuel will cool the plug and
prevent it from igniting the fuel/air mixture. An idle bar is a
help in obtaining a low idle speed.
Flutter - A phenomenon whereby the elevator or aileron
control surface begins to oscillate violently in flight. This
can sometimes cause the surface to break away from the
aircraft and cause a crash. There are many reasons for this,
but the most common are excessive hinge gap or
excessive “slop” in the pushrod connections and control
horns. If you ever hear a low-pitched buzzing sound,
reduce throttle and land immediately.
Lateral Balance - The left-right or side-to-side balance of
an airplane. An airplane that is laterally balanced will track
better through loops and other maneuvers.
Leading Edge (LE) - The very front edge of the wing or
stabilizer. This is the edge that hits the air first.
Frequency Control - The FCC has allowed the 72MHz
band to be used for R/C aircraft operations. This band is
divided up into many different channels in which you can
choose a radio system. You should be aware that certain
areas have frequencies in which there is pager interference.
This is why it is always a wise move to check with your local
hobby shop to find out any channels that may be
troublesome in the area you wish to fly.
Muffler - A device attached to the exhaust stack of the
engine to reduce noise and increase back pressure which
helps low speed performance. Note: Most R/C Clubs
require the use of mufflers.
Muffler Baffle - A restrictor plate inside the muffler which
reduces engine noise. This plate can be removed to
increase power, but only if there are no noise restrictions
where you fly.
Fuel Overflow Line (Vent) - The fuel line is either open to
atmospheric pressure or attaches to the muffler pressure
nipple to pressurize the fuel tank for better fuel flow to the
engine. This is the line through which the fuel will overflow
when the tank is full.
Needle Valve - Adjustment on a carburetor used to set proper
fuel/air mixture. Some carburetors have separate needle
adjustments for low and high throttle. Typically, turning the
needle clockwise (threading in) leans the mixture (less fuel), and
vice versa. However, there are a few exceptions—refer to the
engine manufacturer’s instructions.
Fuel Pick Up-Line - The fuel line in the fuel tank through
which fuel travels to the carburetor. Typically a flexible tube
with a weight or “Clunk” on the end which allows it to follow
the fuel with changes in aircraft attitude. This is the line
through which the tank is filled.
NiCd - Nickel Cadmium battery. Rechargeable batteries which
are typically used as power for radio transmitters and receivers.
Fuselage - The body of an airplane.
Nitro - Nitromethane, a fuel additive which increases a
model engine’s ability to idle low and improves high speed
performance. Ideal nitro content varies from engine to
engine. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for
best results. Nitro content in fuel is indicated by the percent
of the fuel.
Glitch - Momentary radio problem that never happens
unless you are over trees or a swamp.
Glow Plug - The heat source for igniting the fuel/air mixture
in the engine. When starting the engine a battery is used to
heat the filament. After the engine is running, the battery
can be removed. The wire filament inside the plug is kept
hot by the “explosions” in the engine’s cylinder. (See next
heading and “Idle Bar” Plug.)
Ni-Starter - A self-contained battery and glow plug clip,
used when starting the engine. (See Glow Plug Clip.)
Pitch Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the elevator.
Pitch is illustrated by holding the airplane at each wing tip.
Raising or lowering the nose is the pitch movement. This is
how the climb or dive is controlled.
Glow Plug Clip/Battery - A 1.2-volt battery, which is connected
to the glow plug on a model airplane engine for starting. The
battery is removed once the engine is running steadily.
Prop Pitch - Props are designated by these two numbers,
for instance 10 - 6. The first number is the prop’s length,
10". The second number is the pitch or angle of the blades.
The 6 represents the distance the propeller will move
forward in one revolution, in this case 6".
Tip Stall - The outboard end of one wing (the tip) stops
developing lift, causing the plane to roll suddenly in the
direction of the stalled wing. This situation is not fun when
you are only a few feet off the runway trying to land.
Trainer Airplane - A model designed to be inherently
stable and fly at low speeds, to give first-time modelers
time to think and react as they learn to fly.
Receiver (Rx) - The radio unit in the airplane which receives
the transmitter signal and relays the control to the servos.
This is somewhat similar to the radio you may have in your
family automobile, except the radio in the airplane
perceives commands from the transmitter, while the radio
in your car perceives music from the radio station.
Trailing Edge (TE) - The rearmost edge of the wing or stabilizer.
Transmitter (Tx) - The hand-held radio controller. This is
the unit that sends out the commands that you input.
Roll Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the ailerons. Roll
is illustrated by holding the airplane by the nose and tail.
Dropping either wing tip is the roll movement. This is used
to bank or turn the airplane. Many aircraft are not equipped
with ailerons and the Roll and Yaw motions are controlled
by the rudder. This is one reason why most trainer aircraft
have a larger amount of dihedral.
Touch-And-Go - Landing and taking off without a pause.
Often confused with a good bounce.
Vertical Fin - The non-moving surface that is perpendicular
to the horizontal stabilizer and provides yaw stability. This
is the surface to which the rudder attaches.
Rudder - Hinged control surface located at the trailing
edge of the vertical stabilizer, which provides control of the
airplane about the Yaw axis and causes the airplane to Yaw
left or right. Left rudder movement causes the airplane to
Yaw left, and right rudder movement causes it to Yaw right.
Washout - An intentional twist in the wing, causing the
wing tips to have a lower angle of attack than the wing root.
In other words, the trailing edge is higher than the leading
edge at the wing tips. Washout helps prevent tip stalls.
Wheel Collar - A small, round retaining device used to
keep wheels from sliding off an axle.
Servo - The electro-mechanical device which moves the
control surfaces or throttle of the airplane according to
commands from the receiver. The radio device which does
the physical work inside the airplane.
Wing - The main lifting surface of an airplane.
Wing Loading - This is the amount of weight per square
foot that has to be overcome to provide lift. It is normally
expressed in ounces per square foot. This specification can
be easily calculated as follows: If you know the square
inches of the wing, simply divide by 144 to obtain square
feet. Divide the total weight (in ounces) of the airplane by
the wing area (in square feet). This information is valuable
when deciding on which airplane to build next. Planes with
high wing loading numbers must fly faster to stay in the air.
These are generally “performance” airplanes. Conversely,
planes with lower numbers do not need as much air flowing
around the wing to keep it flying. Gliders and trainer
airplanes fall into this category because slow, efficient flight
is desirable.
Servo Output Arm - The removable arm or wheel which bolts
to the output shaft of a servo and connects to the pushrod.
Shot Down - A “hit” that results in a crash landing.
Sometimes caused by radios miles away.
Slop - Unwanted, excessive free movement in a control
system. Often caused by a hole in a servo arm or control
horn that is too big for the pushrod wire or clevis pin. This
condition allows the control surface to move without
transmitter stick movement. (See Flutter.)
Solo - Your first totally unassisted flight that results in a
controlled landing.
Spinner - The nose cone, which covers the propeller hub.
Wing Root - The centerline of the wing, where the left and
right wing panels are joined.
Sport Airplane - A model which possesses some
attributes of many of the specialty airplanes and are best
for general flying as they are the most versatile and durable.
Yaw Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the rudder. Yaw
is illustrated by hanging the airplane level by a wire located
at the center of gravity. Left or right movement of the nose
is the Yaw movement.
Stall - What happens when the angle of attack is too great
to generate lift regardless of airspeed. (Every airfoil has an
angle of attack at which it generates maximum lift — the
airfoil will stall beyond this angle).
Z-Bend - A simple Z-shaped bend in the wire end of a
pushrod, which is used to attach the pushrod to a servo
output arm.
Tachometer - An optical sensor designed specifically to
count light impulses through a turning propeller and read
out the engine RPM.
Fill out the ID tag below and tape it in your model.
We have included a spare tag.
Before assembly match the parts in the photo with the parts in the kit. Check off each part as they are located.
If any parts are missing or damaged, consult Tower Hobbies Order Assistance (see phone numbers listed on the front page).
Note: All parts are one per kit unless otherwise stated.
This model belongs to:
City, State Zip
Phone number
AMA number
This model belongs to:
City, State Zip
Phone number
AMA number
Parts List
❍ 1.
❍ 2.
❍ 3.
❍ 4.
❍ 5.
❍ 6.
❍ 7.
❍ 8.
❍ 9.
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❍ 19.
Right Wing Panel w/Aileron
Main Landing Gear (2 pcs.)
Nose Landing Gear
Wheels (3)
Fuel Tank
Molded Wing Dowel Covers (4 pcs.)
Receiver/Battery Tray
Wing Dowels (2 pcs.)
Hook and Loop Material
Hardware Bag
Plastic Parts Bag
Rubber Bands (12)
Aileron Servo Tray
Aileron Servo Tray Mounting Blocks
Wing Joiners
Left Wing Panel w/Aileron
Ordering Replacement Parts
Hardware and Plastic Bag Contents
❍ (2) Aileron Pushrods
❍ (2) Pushrods for Elevator and Rudder
❍ (1) Pushrod for Nose Wheel Steering
❍ (1) Pushrod for Throttle
❍ (2) Outer Plastic Tubes for Throttle/Steering
❍ (2) Protective Foam for Receiver and Battery
❍ (1) Engine Mount, .40-Size
❍ (2) Landing Gear Straps
❍ (4) 4mm x 25mm Screws
❍ (8) Lock Washers
❍ (4) 4mm Nuts
❍ (4) 4mm x 20mm Screws
❍ (2) 4mm x 12mm Screws
❍ (2) 4mm Flat Washers
❍ (8) 4mm Wheel Collars for Wheels, Steering Arm,
and Nose Gear
❍ (7) 3mm x 5mm Screws
❍ (1) 3mm x 8mm Screw
(2 sets) Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors
(4) 3mm x 10mm Screws
(8) 2.6mm x 8mm Screws
(4) 2mm x 14mm Screws
(1) Nose Wheel Steering Arm
(1) Nose Wheel Bearing Block
(14) CA Hinges
(2 sets) Control Horns
(5) Clevises
(4) Nylon Faslink™ Keepers
(5) Silicone Clevis Keepers
(2) Engine Mounting Straps
(2) Nylon Aileron Torque Rod Control Horns
(1) Spinner
(1) Fuel Tubing, 305mm long
Replacement parts are available from Tower Hobbies for
your Tower Trainer 40 MKII ARF. Our order assistance
representatives are ready to answer your questions or to
place your order. Call us at (800) 637-6050 or e-mail us at:
[email protected]
Replacement Parts
Order Number
TOWA2060......………........Wing Set
TOWA2061............………..Fuselage Set
TOWA2062.........………....Tail Surface Set
TOWA2063.....………........Landing Gear
Hobbico® DC Quick Field Charger (HCAM3000)
Tower Hobbies® 4-TH 4-Channel FM (TOWJ41**)
Fast-charge radio batteries anywhere.
Take advantage of today’s best FM technology.
Recharge 9.6V transmitter and 4.8V or 6.0V receiver batteries right on the spot,
using any 12V DC input. Advanced Delta peak sensing technology
automatically switches to trickle once batteries are fully charged. Unique
voltage boost circuitry peaks transmitter NiCds even in diode-equipped
radios. Includes 2.5A fuse, alligator clips on a 14" input cord and banana
plugs. 2-year warranty. Connectors required.
The 4-TH is all-NiCd, with all-channel servo reversing, mechanical trims for all
four channels, Futaba-compatible J plugs and a retractable, removeable
antenna. Gimbal stick length is adjustable and all controls are in easy reach.
The built-in trainer system is compatible with most FM radios. Requires
servos. Backed by a generous 1-year warranty. 72MHz.
Tower Hobbies® TS-53 Standard Servo (TOWM4525)
Tower Hobbies® .46 RC ABC BB w/Muffler (TOWG0146)
Cutting-edge quality for precision and power.
Torque: 42 oz-in
Weight: 1.5 oz
Speed: .22 sec @ 60°
Dimensions: 0.77”x1.59”x1.41”
System 3000 TS-53 Servos offer exceptional strength and dependability. Vibrationresistant Surface Mount Technology keeps them operating perfectly in the thick of
action. They also feature impact-resistant, fuelproof cases — and universal
connectors, compatible with Futaba®, JR®, Hitec® and all “Z” connector-equipped
Airtronics systems, as well as all Tower systems. Includes ball bearings, complete
mounting hardware, and warranty protection for one year.
Strong performance and long-lasting quality, for less!
Weight (w/muffler): 16.9 oz
Practical RPM Range: 2,500-16,000
BHP @ RPM: 1.75 @ 16,000
The ball-bearing Tower .46 ABC delivers the reliability you need for carefree
flying. Features include CNC-manufactured parts, a true ABC piston/liner,
Schnuerle porting, remote needle valve, and a muffler with pressure tap and
rotatable exhaust outlet. Requires glow plug and prop. 2-year warranty plus
postage-free parts support.
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