ONEWAY & TALON 4 Jaw Safety Scroll Chucks ONEWAY & TALON ACCESSORIES

ONEWAY & TALON ACCESSORIES
There are several Jaws Sets which can be quickly and easily inter-changed
on these chucks.
Step Jaws
Part No: 2156
ONEWAY & TALON
4 Jaw Safety Scroll Chucks
Spigot Jaws
Part No. 3014 (ow) / 3016 (tn)
ONEWAY CHUCK
(LEVER OPERATED)
* #3 Jaws
Part No (ow/tn): 2158 / 3015
Jumbo Jaws
Part No: 2047
Dovetail Jaws
Part No. 2573
Flat Jaws
Part No. 2678
TALON CHUCK
(KEY OPERATED)
241 Monteith Ave, Stratford, ON, N5A 5X6, Canada
1.800.565.7288
www.oneway.ca
Instruction Manual
Congratulations on your purchase. We at ONEWAY believe that you will be
pleased with either your new ONEWAY Lever Operated chuck or your Talon
Key Operated Chuck. Please read the following instructions before its use.
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
Page
Page
3
4-5
6
7
7
8
9
9-10
10
11
11
12-14
15
2
SECTION 1 - Your Chuck
& its parts
Contents of this package
Chuck Description
Features of your Chuck
Installing the Woodworm Screw
Profile Jaw Shape
Why you have bought a superior chuck
SECTION 2 - Getting
Started
Mounting the Adaptor
Removing the Adaptor
Mounting the Chuck on your
lathe spindle
SECTION 3 - Maintenance
Removing Top Jaws
Removing Base Jaws
Reassembling your Chuck
Specifications for Chucking
16-18 SECTION 4 - Chuck Accessories
16 Optional Chuck Accessories & Uses
Capacity Chart
19 SECTION 5 - Turning Tips
19 Methods for turning Bowls/Platters:
20 Method One: Screw chucking
20-21 Method Two: Large Drill
21 Method Three: Glue Block
Differentiating Left & Right Hand
22 Screws
22 Maximizing Gripping Power
23 A Finishing Tip
24-25 Popular Method for Bowl Turning
Safety Tips
26
27 Manufacturers Warranty
Warranty Card.
SECTION 1 - YOUR CHUCK & ITS PARTS
CONTENTS OF THIS PACKAGE
Please check that the following components are included in your package. If any
of the pieces are missing, please contact the place of purchase immediately.
* The adaptor may be packaged separately. If your adaptor is not already installed in your
chuck, installation instructions are on page 9.
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ONEWAY CHUCK
ONEWAY Chuck with #2 Jaws
Attached
Levers (2)
1-1/2" R.H. Jumbo Screw (1)
M4 * 16 Hex Socket Screws (3)
4 mm T-handle Hex Key (1)
3 mm Hex Key (1)
Taperlock Adaptor* (1)
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TALON CHUCK
Talon Chuck with #2 Jaws
Attached
Geared Chuck Key & Cross Bar (1)
Yellow Caps (for key assembly) (2)
1-1/2" R.H. Jumbo Screw (1)
M4 * 16 Hex Socket Screws (3)
4 mm T-handle Hex Key (1)
3 mm Hex Key (1)
Taperlock Adaptor* (1)
Certain features of ONEWAY chucks are patented under one or more of the
following patent numbers: 5141239, 2257068, 5464231
(other patents pending at the time of printing this manual)
This section explains the proper terms for the component parts which make up
your new Chuck. These terms will be referred to throughout this instruction
manual. It is necessary that you know the proper names for the parts of your
chuck for complete understanding of these instructions. Some of the chuck's
features are also discussed.
3
YOUR CHUCK DESCRIPTION
Top view a ONEWAY chuck. It
is shown partially disassembled to
help illustrate all of its components.
BODY: The main part of the chuck. It
holds all other parts as an assembly.
E WAY
ON
1
CA
NADA
BASE JAWS: The carriers to which the
top jaws are attached with two screws. They
are numbered 1 through 4 on the side.
THE SCROLL: The cylindrical part
which has a flat surface thread on the top
side which moves the base jaws in and out
in unison.
PROFILED TOP JAWS: The No. 2 Jaws
which are attached to the base jaws and
will hold the wood to be turned.
TAPERLOCK ADAPTOR: Made with various
threaded sizes so it can be made to fit any lathe
spindle. If you change lathes, all you need to do is
buy a new adaptor, not a whole new chuck. The
taperlock design eliminates the possibility of the
adaptor loosening or separating from the chuck
body in normal use or when reversing the lathe.
4
YOUR CHUCK DESCRIPTION
NOT SEEN:
* SNAP RING: The clip which holds the scroll in place. Snap ring pliers (or similar) are required to remove the scroll if necessary
* 4mm T-HANDLE HEX KEY: Used to install or remove Top Jaws.
* 3mm HEX KEY: Used to install or remove the taper lock adaptor.
TO
OPEN AND CLOSE THE CHUCK:
ONEWAY
2 LEVERS: The levers and
scroll are hardened to prevent
the levers bending and the
holes mis-shaping. Levers are
made from high strength steel
and will not deform or bend
with normal use: it is important that when applying pressure that they are fully inserted in the hole. Failure to do
so may cause elongation of
the holes in the chuck body
or scroll.
TALON
GEARED KEY: The key is supported in two places, for easy
action and long life. Your key will
come disassembled. Insert the cross
bar into the hole in the key and
put the Yellow End Caps (which
are packed in a small plastic bag)
on each end to secure it in place.
End Cap
Cross Bar
5
1
FEATURES OF YOUR CHUCK
JAWS - ONEWAY Chucks are equipped The groove on the base jaw is
with ONEWAY's patented profile top tapered. This groove is where
jaw shape. This shape increases gripping the Top Jaw sits and is pulled in
power at all diameters of round and with two countersunk screws.
square stock. Less wood damage also
The taper allows for the top
occurs with this jaw shape than
jaws to have a snug
E WAY
with the conventional round
fit but will not
ON
shaped jaws.
damage either
the top or
Note the recess: This is
base jaw.
where the groove around
S L O T
the diameter of the head
(patented
of the screw fits. This
safety feaeliminates the possibility
ture) This is a
of the screw moving in
slot
which is
C
or out of the chuck.
ANADA
milled onto the
Note the shape of the tip of the
base jaw: this fits into the grooves
or flats that are milled along the
length of the head of the screw
which prevents the screw from
spinning.
6
body of the chuck.
There is a shorter slot
under the opposite
jaw, which can't be
seen in this view.
Refer to page 14 for
the functions of these
slots.
INSTALLING THE WOODWORM SCREW
View as to how the woodworm screw is
mounted. Note the top jaw enters the
groove to prevent pull out.
The base jaw enters the vertical groove
which prevents spin. Two way retention - a
ONEWAY invention, now copied by others.
A WORD ON ONEWAY PROFILE JAWS
Chucks and jaws are always a compromise. If you plan to always make one size
bowl with the same shape foot then a system can be designed that will not damage your bowl's foot. There are many excellent quality chucks on the market. All
of those chucks have one thing in common; their jaws were designed to fit only
one diameter by a limited depth. This is called the design diameter. For example, a set of jaws turned to 2" diameter with a 7° taper * 1/4 deep will only work
well in a cavity that is exactly 2" diameter * 7° and just less than 1/4" deep. They
will hold progressively less, and increasingly damage your mounting as this base size changes from
the theoretical perfect size. The ONEWAY wave
pattern on the inside changes all that. Excellent 8
point contact is achieved at all diameters in the
jaw size range used. On the outside (for in cavity
chucking) the bite machined just short of the jaw
end puts chucking pressure to the cavity bottom the safest place to prevent breaking the cavities
edge.
7
WHY YOU HAVE BOUGHT A SUPERIOR CHUCK BY
BUYING A ONEWAY MANUFACTURED CHUCK
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Base jaws are made from carbon steel. Precision grinding on the sides
provides for the exact and controlled clearances which are required
for wood turning chucks.
Base jaws are case hardened which makes them longer lasting,
stronger, and non-seizing in use.
Scroll is precision machined and case hardened. The bore is honed to
exact tolerances after heat treating.
The scroll is manganese phosphate plated which acts as an anti-seize
compound. Less lubrication is consequently required for smooth running action over the life of the chuck.
The body is precision machined. Electroless nickel plating provides a
hard wearing surface for base jaws and scroll while giving the added
bonus of providing excellent corrosion resistance.
Add these quality materials and precision processes to features such as:
Profiled Top Jaws
„ Patented Safety Feature allowing maximum travel
„ Superior taperlock adaptor
„ Its one-of-a-kind woodworm screw
SECTION 2 - GETTING STARTED
MOUNTING AND REMOVING THE ADAPTOR
Note that there are five holes in the adaptor. Three of these holes are
not threaded. These are used to pull the adaptor into the tapered
chuck body (and hold it there). The other two holes are threaded.
These are used as jack screws if the adaptor needs to be removed.
MOUNTING THE ADAPTOR:- (the adaptor may already be mounted)
1. Wipe the inside of the taper of the chuck body as well as the outside
of the adaptor to be sure all grit and dirt is removed.
2. Slide the adaptor into the chuck body with the three holes of the
adaptor lined up with the threaded holes of the chuck body.
3. Thread in the M4 x 16 hex socket screws with the 3 mm hex key and
tighten them alternately. Alternate tightening ensures that the adaptor
is pulled into the taper straight.
After mounting the adaptor to the chuck, a space of 0.020 to 0.050
between the adaptor and the chuck body is normal.
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all at a competitive price - gives you an absolutely superior chuck.
8
REMOVING THE ADAPTOR
1. Remove the three tightening screws and thread them into the two
tapped holes of the adaptor. They now become jack screws.
2. Carefully tighten alternately until the adaptor pops loose from the
taper.
9
CAUTION: If a lot of force is required to remove the adaptor, the
screws may flatten and compress the first thread. After the adaptor is
out of the chuck body, you may not be able to remove the screws from
the adaptor. Do not forcibly remove, but take the following action:
first turn the screws in further; then, using a file or grinder, remove the
first squashed thread. You will now be able to remove the screws without damaging the taperlock adaptor.
MOUNTING THE ONEWAY ON YOUR LATHE
It is important that the chuck is put on your lathe properly. Proceed as
follows:
After mounting the adaptor to the chuck, carefully screw the assembly
onto your lathe spindle. It should go on smoothly without excessive
play or binding. Screw it all the way on until the adaptor face contacts
the spindle shoulder. Next, lock your spindle, and unscrew the chuck
just slightly so you can give it a firm swift spin, consequently snapping
the chuck home. Alternatively, a piece of wood can be tightened in the
top jaws crosswise, and with the palm of your hand, bump the chuck
home.
To remove, reverse the above procedure.
10
SECTION 3 - MAINTENANCE
To clean your chuck, simply brush clean. If it is sticky, soak in varsol or
mineral spirits with about 10% oil added. Allow to sit for 1/2 hour or
more, and blow clean.
TO DISASSEMBLE YOUR CHUCK
1. Remove Top Jaws. You may want to remove the Top Jaws either for
cleaning purposes, or to exchange them for an optional set of jaws, with
a different capacity. To remove the Top Jaws, use the 4mm T-Handle hex
key and unscrew the eight screws counterclockwise. The jaws are pulled
in on a taper, so after the screws are out, it is usually necessary to give
them a tap (with the T-handle of the hex key) to knock them loose from
the taper. It is possible to disassemble the chuck and leave three of the
Top Jaws on - just locate the Top Jaw with the pin (#2 or #4), and remove
it.
2. Remove Base Jaws. To remove the base jaws, you must remove at least
one of the Top Jaws. All four Top Jaws can be removed, but for cleaning
purposes, it is usually only necessary to remove one - that being the one
with the pin (this may be No 2 or No 4 depending on if it is located in
the short or long slot respectively). After this Top Jaw is off, open the
chuck until the jaws stop moving. When the jaws are no longer moving,
they are loose from the scroll and can be slid from the slots out of the
body.
3. Remove the adaptor (refer to page 9). It is necessary to remove the
adaptor in order to remove the snap ring.
11
4. Remove the snap ring. Use external snap ring pliers (or similar) for the
ONEWAY or a screwdriver for the Talon to remove the snap ring.
5. After removing the snap ring, turn the chuck upside down into your
hand and the scroll should fall straight out. ONEWAY chucks are manufactured with very tight tolerances, and sometimes a little jiggling is
necessary to get the scroll out. Note: Do not use a wire brush on the
scroll. This can damage the lubricating properties on the surfaces.
TO RE-ASSEMBLE YOUR ONEWAY
1. Place the scroll back into the chuck body.
2. Replace the snap ring.
3. Remount the base jaws, using the following directions:
Position 2
Position 1
To Remount Base Jaws
a. Rotate the scroll until you
can see the thread start at
pos.1.
b. Back the scroll up until
the start of the thread just
disappears, and slide the No.
1 base jaw into the slot.
c. While pushing inward on
the No. 1 base jaw, rotate the
scroll 90°. Pull outward on
the No. 1 base jaw to make
sure that it has engaged prop-
erly with the scroll. If the jaw comes out, start the process again.
d. Rotate the scroll until you can see the
thread start at position 2.
e. Back the scroll up and slide the No.
2. base jaw into the slot. Push on the
jaw, and rotate the scroll, as you did for
the No. 1 base jaw.
f. Repeat these steps for the No. 3 and
No. 4 base jaws.
g. Rotate the scroll all the way in to
check that all the jaws meet in the centre. If they don't, you may have put the
base jaws onto the scroll in the wrong
ONEWAY with Top Jaws order, or into the wrong slots, or one of
removed. After replacing the jaws may not have engaged properly
base jaws, you must check onto the scroll. If the jaws do not meet
that they all meet in the cen- in the centre, open the scroll until the
jaws come out, and give it another try.
tre.
Position 4
TROUBLESHOOTING:
If , after a second try, the jaws do not close properly, remove them
and inspect for damage. It is possible that through accidental mishandling, the first half tooth on base jaw No. 1 has broken off. If this has
happened, repeat the process above, but start by inserting base jaw No.
2 first, then No. 3, No. 4 and finally No. 1.
12 Chuck shown with all jaws removed.
13
Position 3
4. Re-attach Top Jaws using the following directions:
Replacing Top Jaws:
To replace the Top Jaws on your Chuck, first
make sure that both the top of the base jaw
(still in the chuck) and the bottom of the Top
Jaw (to be put on) are free of dirt. Next, locate
the Top Jaw with the safety pin. Place it on
the base jaw adjacent to the slot (patented feature) and replace the screws. After the top jaw
with the pin is mounted on the chuck, the
other three top jaws can be placed on the
chuck body at random (making sure that all
the contact surfaces are free of dirt).
Bottom view of Top
Jaw with pin
There are two slots:
The Long Slot is for experienced turners. It is machined to allow the
jaws maximum outward travel without the base jaws coming out of the
scroll, effectively preventing jaw fly-out when the lathe is started.
The Short Slot is for beginners and school use. This slot is machined
to stop base jaws from protruding out of the chuck, which can be a hazard to knuckles when working close to the chuck.
5. Re-Mount the Adaptor. (refer to page 9)
14
SPECIFICATIONS FOR CHUCKING
FOOT SPECIFICATIONS FOR BOARD
GRAIN
When gripping the outside of a foot:
Min Dia 2.0"
Min Depth 3/16"
Max Dia 3-1/2"
Max Depth 15/32"
1. Make the foot 1/4" deep or more,
2. Stop off the top of the jaws, do not
make the spigot so long that it reaches the bottom of the jaws and make the corner sharp. Make the foot straight.
TENON SPECS FOR BOARD GRAIN
Min Dia 2-3/8" Min Depth 1/8"
Max Dia 4.0"
Max Depth 7/32"
1. Do not make the cavity too deep.
Maximum, depth should be 7/32". If
you go as deep as the straight section
on the outside of the jaws the jaws will grip very poorly.
2. Back taper 2° or 3°- the jaws will hold much better in a straight sided cavity
than they will in a cavity that has too much taper.
When gripping round end grain stock, make
the spigot the same shape as for board grain.
Min. Dia. 2.0"
Max. Dia. 3-1/2”
Min Depth 3/16"
Max Depth 15/32"
15
ONEWAY Chuck
min
max
CAPACITY CHART
Step Jaws (for the
Oneway & Talon
chuck)
Spigot Jaws (for the
Oneway chuck)
**Spigot Jaws (for
the Talon chuck)
#2 Jaws
(for both Chucks)
Dovetail Jaws
(for both Chucks)
#3 Jaws (for the
Oneway chuck)
#3 Jaws (for the
Talon chuck)
Jumbo Jaws
(for both Chucks)
A = External or
compression chucking
B = Internal or
expansion chucking
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
A
B
3/8
7/8
1-1/16
1-5/8
2
1-5/8
2
3-3/8
3-7/8
2-7/8
4-7/8
2
2½
1
2½
3
3-5/8
3
3-5/8
4
5-3/8
11
12
TALON Chuck
min
max
3/8
7/8
3/8
1
1-5/8
2
1-5/8
2
2-7/8
3-3/8
2-7/8
4-7/8
1
2-3/8
1-5/8
2-3/8
2-7/8
3½
2-7/8
3½
4
4-5/8
10
11
B
A
** will only fit ONEWAY Chucks manufactured with zig-zag base jaw design. To double
check, remove top jaws-if base jaws have 3 holes, these jaws will fit
ONEWAY reserves the right to change specifications without notice.
16
SECTION 4 - ONEWAY & TALON ACCESSORIES
Right out of the box, your chuck will be ready to be used for most turning applications. The accessories which ONEWAY offers were designed
to allow the wood turner to take on projects which may require a smaller or larger capacity than what the standard No. 2 Jaws can handle. The
following is a list of available accessories which will allow you to easily
upgrade and diversify your Chuck.
NO. 1 JAWS
If often turning small parts, No. 1 jaws are a must, but do not use them
for material over 1-1/2" in diameter or for bowls with recess larger than
1-3/4" in diameter. (Step Jaws & Spigot Jaws available)
DOVETAIL JAWS
These jaws have the same capacities as the standard #2 Jaws which come
with the chuck. The inside and outside surface of the jaws is smooth
and are designed and recommended for light cutting applications. These
jaws will not mark you work piece as much as the standard supplied
jaws, but they also will not grip with the same power.
NO. 3 JAWS
For large bowls (over 12" in diameter and 5" deep), No. 3 jaws are an
asset because their larger size will better support your material, whether
holding inside or out.
FLAT JAWS
These are low cost jaws on which wooden blocks can be mounted. These
blocks can be turned providing a custom grip jaw set.
JUMBO JAWS
For finishing the backside of your bowls up to 12" in diameter, the
17
Jumbo Jaws are unsurpassed. Jumbo Jaws are aluminum plates
machined from the solid for higher strength. Buttons are hard rubber
sleeves pressed on taper steel cores and can be positioned at virtually
any diameter.
MINI JUMBO JAWS
These jaws come in a smaller 8-1/2" diameter. Because of their smaller
size, they can easily be used on most mini or small sized lathes.
EXTRA BUTTON SET
For large, or odd shaped bowls, an extra button set is available which
allows buttons to be stacked.
JUMBO SCREWS
An 1-1/2" Left Hand Jumbo Screw is available for outboard turning
(this screw is the same length as the R.H. screw which is supplied with
the chuck). For large bowls, the 2" screw should be used (R.H. for
inboard and L.H. for outboard turning). Having trouble differentiating
right hand and left hand screws? See page 21.
CHUCK SPURS
If you often switch from chuck work, to working between centers, consider a ONEWAY chuck spur. It mounts directly into your chuck,
which eliminates having to remove and re-install your chuck from your
spindle. Chuck Spurs are manufactured in two sizes; 1/2" and 1".
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SECTION 5 - ONEWAY TURNING TIPS
This section of this instruction manual is devoted to turning tips, and
ways to maximize the use of your chuck.
BOWLS AND PLATTERS
There are many ways to hold your work piece for turning it into a bowl
or platter. Here are three good methods:
METHOD ONE: Screw Chucking
Mount the Jumbo Screw in your chuck. The base jaws should sit in the
grooves or flats which have been milled along the length of the head,
and the groove around the head of the screw will fit in the reduced top
jaw section (see page 6 & 7). (NOTE: No. 1 Jaws cannot be used with
the Jumbo screw). After the screw is seated properly in your chuck, drill
an 11/32" (9 mm) hole about 3/4" (19 mm) deep in the part of the
wood blank which will be the inside of the bowl when it's finished.
Thread the blank onto the screw, making sure the face of the blank is in
contact with the jaws. You may have to lock your spindle if you are having trouble holding the chuck stationary while threading the blank onto
the screw. (Never forget to unlock your spindle before starting up your
lathe, and it's a good idea to get into the habit of never leaving the
levers or key in the chuck while you are doing something else). Once
your blank is mounted on the screw, you can rough or finish turn the
outside. To be able to mount your bowl for turning the second side,
turn a foot, spigot or recess for holding. Now you can remove the blank
19
from the screw by rotating counter clockwise, (if you have trouble getting the blank off the screw, it helps if you loosen the jaws off of the
screw just enough to break contact with the jaw faces). Next, turn the
blank around and grip on the spigot or the recess. You may wish to
wrap some tape around your spigot if damage from the chuck jaws is
not acceptable. If you have turned a foot, and want to ensure zero damage, you could also use a glue block at this point (refer to Method 3).
When holding by recess, damage will be negligible. You are now ready
to hollow the bowl.
METHOD TWO: Large Drill
With a large drill or forstner bit, drill a hole to suitable diameter (2-3/8"
MINIMUM) and depth (7/32" max or deeper) which acts as a recess. You
can now grip on this recess by expansion chucking and turn the outside
of the bowl. As in method one, turn a foot, a spigot, or a recess for holding. Loosen the chuck, remove the blank, turn it around and now grip the
blank on the backside and hollow out the bowl. This method is faster for
larger quantities of bowls, but the large hole requires a good drill press
setup.
METHOD THREE: Glue Block
A third method involves a glue block. Drill an 11/32" (9mm) hole in
what will be the inside of the bowl. Mount the jumbo screw in the
chuck, and thread the blank on the screw. Finish turn the outside of
the bowl, and glue a block to the bottom of the bowl. Turn the glue
20
block round so it is concentric and can be gripped in the chuck.
Remove the blank from the Jumbo Screw, and the Jumbo Screw from
the chuck. You can then grip the glue block with the Top Jaws, and hollow the inside of the bowl. Using a glue block is especially appropriate
when you don't want a foot, or tenon and don't have a means to turn it
off. This method is also less wasteful if you are working with exotic or
expensive wood, or if your blank is just the right size and you can't
afford to waste wood on an unwanted spigot that you have to turn off
later. ONEWAY suggests using hot melt glue on dry wood (this glue
will not work on wet wood). Glue blocks can usually be knocked off - if
you have trouble getting the glue block off, use a heat gun to soften the
glue and then knock the glue block off. If working with wet wood,
Differentiating Left from Right Handed Screws
Do you ever have trouble telling your right
hand screws from your
left hand screws? The
threads of right hand
screws point up
towards the right,
while the threads of
left had screws point
up towards the left.
RIGHT HAND
(inboard)
LEFT HAND
(outboard)
21
TO MAKE TOPS or similar small components, simply mount a suitable
piece of stock, square or preferably round. Due to the unique jaw shape,
good holding will be achieved in either case. For tops, turn the point
which will be in contact with the surface when spinning. You can then
work towards the chuck, turning the spindle of the top, and part off.
MAXIMIZING YOUR GRIPPING POWER
If turning a large piece of square stock, (especially if it is end grain) it is a
good idea to initially chuck the "good" end. A spigot can be turned on
the other end. The piece can then be turned around and gripped on the
spigot. This is done for two reasons; firstly, the spigot can be turned small
enough so that when it is chucked, the base jaws remain inside the diameter of the body, which reduces the risk of knuckles being injured if a
catch occurs when working close to the chuck. Secondly, when holding in
a spigot of the ideal diameter, you are also maximizing gripping power.
A FINISHING TIP
If you are finishing a piece with a spray finish, such as lacquer, you may
want to spray with the lathe off, and cover the chuck with some kind of
protective shield. You can then remove the shield after spraying, turn
the lathe on, and finish buffing with a rag or chips. Covering the chuck
while spraying, will prevent it from becoming sticky and gumming up
the scroll and jaws. This will ultimately keep your chuck running with
smooth and easy action.
22
The Lancaster Method for Turning Bowls using a Chuck
Step 1.
Step 2.
Faceplate
core out.
Chuck on foot
and
rough
turn
the
inside.
Allow bowl to
dry.
Step 3.
Step 5.
Hold bowl
between
center and
faceplate
finish outside. True
up
the
spigot.
Step 4.
Chuck on foot and finish turn
inside (See illustration of step 2).
Chuck with
Jumbo Jaws
and finish
foot.
Optionally
use a vacuum system
to finish the
outside.
23
SAFETY TIPS
SAFETY TIPS...continued
As when working with any tools, a sensible approach and simple safety precautions should be followed.
1. Always wear proper clothing and face protection. Also use adequate exhaust and respiration equipment, especially when turning
or sanding toxic or spalted woods, or when spraying with any liquid material.
2. Before loading the chuck, check that the wood is not split, cracked,
or otherwise weakened. Do not load damaged wood in your chuck
for turning.
3. The capacity of ONEWAY chucks depends on various factors such
as whether the wood is wet or dry, soft or hard or whether turning
end grain or side grain and whether the piece is balanced.
4. Be sure wood is gripped tightly in the chuck before rotating the
chuck under power. Tighten the chuck with the levers or the key.
5. For safe use with hand chisels, do not extend the jaws beyond the
chuck body.
6. Always rotate the chuck manually to be sure of clearances before
starting your lathe. Don't forget to remove the levers or key from
the Chuck before starting your lathe.
7. Never wrap any strip sand paper or clothing around your hands or
fingers when sanding or turning. Do not wear gloves when turning.
8. Only light cutting can be performed when holding long square stock
without centre support, especially where soft or wet woods are
involved. For best results on longer parts and heavy cutting, use the
tip on page 22 for MAXIMIZING YOUR GRIPPING POWER.
9. Using dull tools and poor technique will cause problems with any
chucking system. By using properly sharpened tools and good technique, you will be guaranteed better results and safer turning.
10. When turning parts held between the chuck and live center, be sure
the center is accurately aligned or oscillation will soon loosen the
chuck's grip.
11. For end grain hollowing in goblets or bowls, a ring tool such as the
TERMITE made by ONEWAY will, because of its gentle cutting
nature, allow safer deeper hollowing than previously possible with
gouges and large scrapers.
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WARNING
Always check and re-tighten after a catch or when some time elapses
between uses to take care of warp and/or shrinkage. With care you may
turn fairly long lengths unsupported, but for safety, whenever possible,
use a center for support and to prevent accidents.
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ONEWAY WARRANTY CARD
MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY
Date Purchased:
If you are not happy with this product, for whatever reason, return it within 90 days of
purchase, for a full refund or credit. You are responsible for shipping the product back
to us and any costs incurred.
Manufactured parts on this ONEWAY product are backed by a warranty period of two
years from the date of purchase.
ONEWAY hereby agrees to repair or replace, any defects due to faulty material or workmanship, provided that:
1. The warranty period has not elapsed. Proof of purchase date (sales receipt etc.)
is required prior to any repair taking place.
2. The product has not been altered or modified in any way.
3. The product has not been subjected to misuse, abuse, negligence, or was not
used strictly in accordance with these instructions.
4. Transportation costs incurred in returning the product to ONEWAY
Manufacturing is pre-paid by the customer.
This warranty does not cover any costs or damages arising directly or indirectly from
the operation of this product.
No other guarantee, written or verbal, is authorized by ONEWAY Manufacturing.
Name:
Address:
City:
Province/State:
Phone:
Date:
Place of Purchase:
Batch Number:
(stamped on the side of the body)
Our policy is one of continuous improvement. We therefore reserve the right to change
the specification and/or design without notice.
1.800.565.7288
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Would you like us to send you a ONEWAY catalogue? YES / NO
If you require technical assistance, call us toll free at
Postal Code/Zip:
Comments:
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