Bounty Hunter Tracker II Specifications

Copyright ®1998 by Bounty Hunter Corp./First TX Products, L.P.
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this Website and content, or parts
thereof, in any form, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in a review. Published
by Bounty Hunter Corp./First TX Products, L.P.
Note: This book covers the entire Treasure Tracker line manufactured by
Bounty Hunter Corporation.
Stay tuned for the next update of this book which will include online all
diagrams, graphics and photos.
The Tracker Series includes the following four metal detectors:
1. Tracker I-D
2. Tracker II
3. Tracker III
4. Tracker IV
The Author, Publisher, and Manufacturer of Bounty Hunter Products take
no responsibility for any injuries, mishaps, or legal action that may concur
when utilizing Bounty Hunter Equipment or applying any of the
techniques listed in this book. It is the sole responsibility of the reader to
take every precaution necessary when pursuing metal detecting as a
1. Always gain permission when detecting on private property.
2. Learn all of your state and federal laws and know how they apply to
metal detecting.
3. Be careful to wear protective clothing especially to guard yourself from
the elements.
4. Wear gloves at all times when recovering metal objects.
5. Do not wear headphones when it is critical to be able to hear any
oncoming traffic or imminent threats from wild animals.
6. Pace yourself and try to take a restful break at least every hour.
Copyright ©1994 by Bounty Hunter Corporation
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book, or parts
thereof, in any form, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in a review.
Published by Bounty Hunter Corporation
Bounty Hunter® and Treasure Tracker® are registered trademarks of
Bounty Hunter Corporation and are used by permission from Bounty
Hunter Corporation.
Complete Tracker Metal Detector Line
CHAPTER 1 -- Tracker Detecting Basics
Air Testing Preparation
Air Testing
Audio Output Test
Pull Tab Reject
Meter Systems
CHAPTER 2 -- Take It To The Field
Proper Coil Motion
"Trapdoor" Method
CHAPTER 3 -- Relic Hunting
Control Settings
Civil War Relic Hunting
CHAPTER 4 -- Cache Hunting
Cache Hunting Grid
CHAPTER 5 -- Coin-Shooting
Ball Field Map
CHAPTER 6 -- Jewelry Hunting
Control Settings
CHAPTER 7 -- Gold Prospecting
Overview of Prospecting
CHAPTER 8 -- Other Ways to Use Your Tracker
Freelance Detecting
CHAPTER 9 -- Tracker 2-D Ground Balancing
Adjusting to Mineralization
CHAPTER 10 -- Tracker III or IV Features
Tracker III or IV Toggle Positions
CHAPTER 11 -- Techniques In The Field
Pinpointing Grid
CHAPTER 12 -- Batteries
CHAPTER 13 -- Depth Capability
CHAPTER 14 -- Technology of Metal Detecting
Electromagnetic Wavelengths
CHAPTER 15 -- Practice Makes Perfect
Keeping a Log Book
CHAPTER 16 -- Taking the Next Step
Treasure Hunter's Code of Ethics
Metal detecting is one of the most interesting, and can be one of the most
profitable hobbies you will ever delve into. The hobby itself revolves under
many different areas of the general term of "Treasure Hunting". With this
book, we will explore all of these major areas that will enhance your
capabilities and possibilities of applying your Tracker Metal Detector.
There are four different models that consist of the Tracker Metal Detector
line: Tracker I-D, Tracker 2-D, Tracker III and the Tracker IV. The
differences in these four models are in the features offered. Otherwise, all
four of these models operate on the same principles of application.
Many uses await you and your Tracker metal detector: relic hunting, coinshooting, cache hunting, gold prospecting, jewelry hunting and even
practical applications for household chores. The techniques offered in this
book will increase your capability to minimize the learning curve that is
normally encountered when first acquiring a metal detector. Not only will
you gain in learning to operate your detector more efficiently, but you will
also realize the many possible applications for your Tracker.
In combination with your operations manual, this book will give you a
solid foundation in applying and operating your Tracker metal detector
I've been detecting since the early 1970s and have found the hobby to
always be intriguing every time I've gone on an outing; whether hunting
within city limits or going on expeditions into the mountains, I've always
found many valuables along with historically interesting items. One of my
main purposes in pursuing the hobby is a love for history. Many others
will have their own personal reasons for submerging themselves in the
hobby of metal detecting. After you have been "in the field" with your
Tracker, in sufficient time, your own motivations for being there will take
form. Let's face it, there is nothing more exciting than pulling money or
jewelry out of the ground, and yet, it certainly doesn't have to have
historical value to be fun to find.
So, grab your Tracker and prepare for a journey that will engage your
devoted interest for many years to come!
Tracker Detecting Basics
Congratulations on your purchase of the Bounty Hunter Tracker metal
detector. With this book, you'll discover that your new Tracker metal
detector can be applied in a variety of ways. You'll gain many years of
enjoyment and eliminate frustration by learning to operate and apply your
unit properly. We'll start with a general description of each Tracker metal
The Tracker I-D has two controls: a Sensitivity On/Off switch and a
Discriminate control. It's amazing how many ways this unit can be
manipulated with only these two controls. The Tracker 2-D has these same
two controls along with one extra one for manually ground balancing. The
Tracker III or IV also has these two controls along with a toggle switch
which adjusts for three modes of operation: 'Tone Discrimination', 'All
Metals' and 'Full Discrimination'. From the surface, all of these Trackers
may seem easy to operate. Even though, mastering any one of these units
may take 100's of hours of in-the-field application. The more you learn, the
more profitable each detecting excursion becomes.
Our first concern is understanding how your particular Tracker reacts to
different metals and what you should be watching and listening for while
operating your unit.
The Tracker metal detector is one of the easiest detectors to learn to
operate yet, it is a difficult one to master. There are two controls on the
Tracker I-D and the Tracker III or IV that allow you to adjust its
Sensitivity and Discrimination level and a third control on the Tracker 2-D
that allows you to adjust the Ground Balance manually. With only these
few controls you will be able to manipulate your unit in many different
ways predetermined by specific applications.
Let's start off by learning to properly test your Tracker for all of its
functions with what is known as an "air test". You will benefit first by
learning to "air test" your unit indoors. To "air test" a unit requires that
you set up your detector, after it is assembled, with the coil facing towards
the ceiling off the edge of a wooden or nonmetallic table. To do this
requires that your coil has enough slack in the coil cable to be able to
rotate it towards the ceiling. It’s also preferable to have this same slack in
the field for easier tilting of the coil when hunting at different angles.
Make sure there is no other metal nearby or the "air test" cannot be
properly performed. What do you need in preparation for this "air test"?
Find a nickel, a dime, a copper penny, a quarter, a pull tab, a nail, any
piece of small iron, a gold ring, and you'll be completely ready for the
most important preliminary test before taking your unit out into the field.
Air Testing
When first turning the unit on, you will hear a "beep" that lets you know
that there are batteries in the unit and all systems are go. If your batteries
are completely dead, or if there are no batteries in the unit, you will not
hear any tone when turning the unit on. I highly recommend using
Alkaline batteries only. Not only will you gain more hours of operation,
but the unit will perform at its maximum capability.
After turning the unit on, position your Sensitivity knob around the 5:00
position of a clock dial or a little more than three-quarters of a turn. This
will guarantee that you will not get any false signaling or extraneous
noises. False signaling can occur when operating your unit at maximum
Sensitivity; this can be confusing for those who are just beginning the
hobby. You will lose a little depth when operating the unit with the
Sensitivity three-quarters of a turn; even though, your main concern should
be to first learn how to detect at its lower, more stable Sensitivity setting.
You can better take advantage of the unit's ability to detect deeper at
higher Sensitivity settings after gaining more experience.
Okay. We now have the unit on the table with the Sensitivity at threequarters of a turn. Where do we go from here?
Make sure your Discrimination control is turned off completely
(Counterclockwise). All of the Tracker detectors are "Motion Detectors".
With your Discrimination turned off completely, your detector is now in
the All Metals Motion Mode.
(Tracker III or IV users: Make sure that your toggle switch is in the "center
position" for All Metals Motion Mode.) When your Tracker is in All
Metals Motion Mode, your coil has to be in movement when detecting
above the ground; in this setting, you will be detecting every metal that the
coil encounters including: iron, aluminum, silver, gold, brass, copper, etc.
You will only hear one tone instead of the two tones you normally hear
when the Discrimination is turned on.
Now for the first audio output test. Take your sample quarter and wave it
slowly, about three inches above the coil -- do not hold the quarter over the
coil stationary. The target has to be moving before the Tracker will emit a
tone. You'll notice that you are getting a high pitch tone from the speaker
of the unit. Now grab your sample nickel and wave it in the same manner.
This will also give you the same tone as the quarter did. In fact, try every
sample of metal you have, and the detector will emit the same tone. As you
know, the Discrimination is completely off, meaning that you will detect
every type of metal and will get the same response from all of them. This
setting is mostly used when hunting for relics, large caches, gold
prospecting, plumbing parts, and landmark stakes. I will explain this in
detail in upcoming chapters.
Pull Tab Reject
The second audio output test will require that you turn the Discrimination
on clockwise three-quarters of a turn. (On the Tracker III or IV, to turn on
the "Tone Discriminator" requires the toggle switch to be placed in the
right position.) Now, we will repeat waving our samples over the coil to
see what kind of tones are emitted. If you wave your nickel across the coil,
the detector will emit a low tone, yet your quarter, dime and copper penny
will emit a high tone. You'll also get the same low tone with your pull tab
and gold ring samples. You're probably thinking: "Oh great! What good is
a detector that does not differentiate a gold ring from a pull tab!" Let's not
pass judgment too quickly. If you want to eliminate all of your pull tabs,
this is a great setting to operate your unit in. If you do not dig any low
tones, you will pick up all of your silver and copper coins, maybe some
copper tubing, brass items, silver rings yet not have to dig any pull tabs in
the process.
The most recurring item in the field is the ominous pull tab. Your Tracker
does have the ability to give you a different tone for most of your gold
rings and all of your nickels to differentiate them from a pull tab.
To get rid of the pull tab, while still detecting your gold rings and nickels,
simply adjust your Discrimination knob around 12:00 on a clock dial or
half way instead of three-quarters of a turn.
As you wave your pull tab over the coil, you'll notice that you're now
getting a double-tone or broken tone on the pull tab. If you're not, adjust
the Discrimination knob a little in opposite directions while waving the
pull tab over the coil. When you do notice that you're achieving the
broken tone, leave your Discrimination knob on that position.
Now grab your nickel and make sure you're still getting a solid low tone.
You should also be able to achieve the same tone with your gold ring.
Please take note, about 15%-20% of the gold rings you encounter will still
emit the same tone as a pull tab. With this setting, you're at the maximum
potential of eliminating 90% of your pull tabs while still detecting most
gold rings, all nickels, all silver coins and all copper coins.
(Tracker III or IV Users: The Tracker III or IV also has the option to
eliminate the tone for pull tabs completely by placing the toggle switch in
the left position. In this position, the Tracker III or IV will eliminate
everything but silver, copper, brass, etc.)
Take It To The Field
As you can see, we can achieve three different tones to determine by audio
different types of metal. Audio is the most important reference point on the
Tracker to determine what type of metal you're detecting. Your meter
system will give you a visual reference of whether you're detecting metal
or not and also assist you in determining the exact location of the metal
(pinpointing). Whenever the meter moves to the right, from 10 to 0, the
detector is letting you know that the coil is over some metal. The numbers
are not representative of anything in particular such as inches. Again, you
can use the meter system to assist you in pinpointing the target or to
confirm that there is metal under the coil by visual reference. Note: you
cannot tell what type of metal you're detecting or how deep it is with your
meter system.
You have now gone through your initial step in learning to operate your
Tracker. We have learned how to "air test" the unit, know what to expect
from our audio output when detecting different types of metal, and how the
meter can be used for pinpointing. This only covers the basic operation
and features of the Tracker metal detector. It is now time to…take it to the
Now for some real fun! Let's take our Tracker detector and a small digging
trowel outside and find some coins. If you have a yard, we'll start there. If
you do not have a yard, we'll practice in the nearest park.
We'll first operate the unit with the Sensitivity control turned three-quarters
of a turn and our Discrimination control also turned three-quarters of a
turn. We will not dig any pull tabs if we only dig the high tones that are
emitted. (Tracker III or IV users: place your toggle switch in the right
position along with these specified settings).
Slowly sweep the coil from left to right in a half circle. Take another step
and do the same. We are not going to dig a target until we get a repeatable
high tone. Oh, you have one already? Great, let's dig and see what we've
got! Is it your first coin? Don't be disappointed if it's not. You will find
other strange pieces of metal besides coins if you're digging your high
tones such as: brass, copper tubing, pipe fittings, etc. If you detect a can, it
is usually because of the oxidation that occurs when metal has been buried
for many years. This creates a "halo effect" and will not allow any detector
to bypass it. Usually after you dig something like this, you can put it on
top of the ground and the detector will not emit a positive tone any longer.
This is the best way to tell if a piece of metal had oxidized. There are rusty
iron objects and cans that will, even then, still emit a high tone.
Let's keep sweeping the coil and learn how to pinpoint a target. As you
sweep the coil in the half-circle format, you'll notice that sometimes you'll
get a tone that seems to disappear. These are usually best ignored. If you
cannot achieve a repeatable signal after waving the coil over the same spot
a few times, it is most likely trash. If you do achieve a repeatable signal, it
is time to learn how to pinpoint your target. Take your coil and sweep it at
angles over the same spot as if you were drawing an "X". This will assist
you in isolating your target to determine the exact spot to dig in without
having to dig unnecessarily. Take your spade and draw a small circle
around the exact area that you think the target is in.
Now, dig in and see if you have learned to pinpoint your target properly.
As you dig, carefully pile the dirt to the side of the hole. Periodically,
check the hole to see if you're still getting a signal and that it is still
centered and not to the right or left of the hole.
If you lose the signal directly over the hole, check the pile of dirt and see if
you may have already dug up the target. With practice, you should be able
to isolate your target within a four to five-inch circumference. If digging in
a manicured lawn, this will minimize any destruction that may concur in
your detecting efforts.
At this point, you have come a long way with your Tracker. After
detecting your yard or local park, you more than likely are even a few
coins richer. There are many other applications for your Tracker; one of the
most historically interesting is called…relic hunting.
Relic Hunting
What is a relic? Something that has survived the passage of time is a
limited definition. A relic can be anything of historical value, personal
value, associated cultural value -- in fact, anything that reflects another age.
There truly is no price that can be put on a relic. Relics aren't being made
today; they are being copied. Because a relic is impossible to define, we
can only make allusion to what we are looking for when operating a
When operating your Tracker for relic hunting, set your Sensitivity as high
as it will go without gaining false signaling. Keep your Discrimination
turned completely counterclockwise -- which is off. (Tracker III or IV
users: Make sure your Toggle switch is in the center position). Again, this
means you're operating in the All Metals Motion Mode. The reason we're
operating in this mode is because a lot of relics are made of iron, and your
detector will usually eliminate all iron objects in Discrimination Mode.
Where do you hunt for relics? Remember, relics can be anywhere and are
truly impossible to define. If hunting private property, always gain
permission. Never hunt a state or federal park. These areas are usually off
limits to detecting, rock hunting, fossil hunting, etc. The areas to hunt for
relics can be old abandoned homes, plowed fields, remote woodlands,
mountains, ghost towns, and if your home is fairly old, in your own
backyard. Again, it is advised to always gain permission when hunting
private property.
Depending on the area you're hunting, you may decide to operate your
Tracker I-D in Discrimination Mode instead of All Metal Mode. This
would be determined if you're hunting in an area where there is a lot of
trash metal. For instance, old abandoned homes may have too many pull
tabs to operate your unit in the All Metal Mode. By turning on your
Discrimination around 12:00, as described earlier, you'll be able to
eliminate most of them and isolate the more valuable targets. Remember,
you will also be eliminating most all of your iron objects which could very
easily be relics.
When hunting in more remote areas such as plowed fields, the trash items
are minimized allowing you to use your Tracker in the All Metal Mode.
This will increase the possibility of finding iron objects of historical value.
If you ever find anything that you feel would be of historical significance
for your local community, contact your local museum and let them know
the exact location and depth of the item you found. This will enhance the
local lore of your community and may even add another page to a history
If you find relic hunting interesting, you'll gain great benefit by researching
your local library of local historical events that have occurred in your area.
You may gain leads to new areas to hunt and at the same time, gain more
knowledge of your local history. This knowledge will enhance your
perspective and add a new dimension to the way you will view the
surrounding area that you live in.
Relic hunting is one way to obtain historical riches. There is no price tag
that can be placed on relics found. Although, there are applications for
your Tracker that can have a high redemption value like…cache hunting.
Cache Hunting
What is a cache? Pronounced "cash", a cache can be many things. Hidden
valuables such as: one's life savings, a coffee can of loose change, a strong
box of paper money, a bag of jewelry are only a few samples that can be
classified as a cache. A cache is usually not found in parks or ball fields
but near old homes, camp sites, caves, remote countryside, etc.
To set up your Tracker metal detector for cache hunting requires that you
turn off the Discrimination Mode. Sensitivity needs to be maximized for
ultimate depth capability. (Tracker III or IV users: place the toggle switch
in the center). Remember, if you're getting false signals, the Sensitivity will
have to be cut back slightly. On the Tracker 2-D model, the false signaling
can occur in the All Metals Mode by not being properly ground balanced.
Refer to the special chapter in this book for Tracker 2-D users.
Now that we have our Tracker in the All Metals Mode, we are ready to
approach our cache hunt. There are many reasons we have the Tracker in
the All Metals Mode when hunting for caches:
I. A cache is usually buried one to four-feet deep. The Tracker will lose
sensitivity once the Discrimination Mode is turned on.
II. Caches may be hidden in an aluminum or tin can, iron box, steel
containers like a strong box -- all of these metals are eliminated once you
turn on your Discrimination Mode even though there may be silver in the
same metal container. If any of these type of metals, that normally would
be discriminated out, come in between your coil and the precious metal
you're attempting to find, the detector will not emit a tone unless you're in
the All Metal Mode.
III. You will be able to permeate all surface trash when in the All Metals
Mode, because you will be digging everything. The surface trash would
have been a buffer to you in the Discrimination Mode, for you would not
have gotten a signal in that same spot even though there might have been a
jar of old silver dollars. Of course, this requires that you dig the surface
trash and check the same spot where you've removed this same surface
trash. This is in case the cache may have been screened out by this same
Let's first examine our approach to cache hunting by creating the most
likely sequence of encountering a hidden cache; this would be an old
abandoned home site. Why is this? This goes into another complete aspect
of treasure hunting: Research. Most of your cache hunting endeavors
require common sense combined with research. If you consider the fact
that during the Nineteenth Century there were not as many banks, that
would mean choices were limited as to where to place your savings.
In fact, at the time, another factor is that banks were not necessarily a
secure place to store your wealth; therefore, many people did not believe in
banks. So, they had to store their hard-earned money and valuables in a
place that they considered secure. Now, we need to put ourselves in their
position. Where and how would we hide our valuables? How about the
third fence post from the gate? What about at the base of the oak tree in
the backyard? Or even, underneath the bedroom window to allow them to
keep a vigilance during the evening? You are now beginning to see the
Coin-shooting is a true art form. It can take many years of practice to
achieve mastery. There are many things to watch and listen for and to truly
tune into your detector requires devoted persistence. Coin-shooting is the
most popular application of metal detectors today.
Why would this be the most popular detecting pastime? If a coin is old
enough, it's usually worth much more than the effort it takes to dig it.
There are many other reasons to coin-shoot besides finding pieces of metal
authorized by a government as being money. Money defines the age it was
minted in. Coin collecting, as a hobby, is enjoyable in itself. The challenge
of hitting the field with a metal detector to find collectible coins, is more
interesting and less costly than having to buy your coins for your
collection from a coin dealer.
To set up our Tracker to find strictly coins, we will adjust the Sensitivity as
high as it will go without getting false signals and adjust our
Discrimination at three-quarters of a turn. When only digging the high
tones, this will eliminate everything but silver, copper, and brass.
You'll be amazed at all the coins you'll find in this setting. The only
problem with this setting is that we are also eliminating our nickel. If you
want to dig nickels without digging a lot of pull tabs, set up your unit as
we described in the "Air Test" to give you a broken tone on the pull tabs
and a solid low tone on your nickel. Set your Discrimination at around
12:00 and experiment until you get a solid low tone on your nickel and a
broken or double-tone on your pull tab.
Even after adjusting to these specifications, you will still pick up a few pull
tabs that will emit a low tone, especially the pull tabs that only have the lip
left after being broken in half. These are called "Beaver Tails" and cannot
be differentiated from a nickel by your Tracker. They both will emit a solid
low tone.
Speaking of coin-shooting, I'm reminded of a local story that involves a
Tracker I-D. One buyer of a Tracker I-D metal detector had tried out his
detector upon receiving it the same day. He chose to give it its first trial run
in his own back yard. Oddly, he had just moved into the home after having
it built in a new housing development. Because of this, his back yard was
all dirt and hadn't even been landscaped. Remember, this is a new housing
area where you would not expect to find anything old or of value. Shortly
after turning the unit on, he had received a tone from the unit and decided
that it would be a good idea to dig the target to see how the unit was
working. When he opened the small tin box that he dug up he found that
there was one $5 Gold Coin and an 1800s dime. The dime turned out to
be extremely rare; he sold it wholesale for $13,000.00. The $5 Gold Coin
went for $6,000.00. Not bad for his first swing of a Tracker metal detector.
Coin-shooting is obviously lucrative. Yet, another use for the Tracker that
is tremendously profitable is…jewelry hunting.
Jewelry Hunting
Now this can be, without a doubt, well worth the effort when applying
your Tracker. I've found many rings, both gold and silver, in my time and
feel that with practice you will too.
Jewelry items are like coins, they can be lost as coins, just about anywhere
there is dirt or grass and people have dwelled there. To concentrate on just
finding jewelry requires that you set up your detector to eliminate 95% of
the pull tabs you encounter by setting your Discrimination adjustment at
around 12:00. This will mean that 85% of your gold rings will be found
and all of your silver rings will be found if you're only digging the solid
low tones and high tones while avoiding the broken tones.
The main problem with hunting for gold rings is that you'll dig many
"Beaver Tails", pull tabs, nickels, etc. before finding your first gold ring.
Only the low tone emitted by your Tracker will determine that you may
have encountered a gold ring but the odds are tremendously against you
because of the thousands of pull tabs and "Beaver Tails" that are in your
way that also may emit a low tone. Even though, this should be looked
upon as a challenge instead of a drudgery.
Silver rings will emit a high tone, as do copper and silver coins, and are
easier to find.
Gold chains, as gold rings, can also pose a problem when detecting.
Chains are the hardest to find out of all jewelry items. Small chains are
next to impossible to detect at any depth unless they are piled up. This
would allow your detector to have more to detect than just one thin side of
the chain.
Up to now we've covered a lot of applications for your Tracker metal
detector. Most all of these applications can be a lifetime study in itself.
Most certainly, all of them predetermine the setup of your controls on your
Tracker. Now let's delve into one of the most pursued forms of "Treasure
Hunting" in all of history…gold prospecting.
Gold Prospecting
Metal detectors have been instrumental in creating another gold rush in the
last two decades. Older gold mines that have long closed down have
reopened using metal detectors as the main tool for gold retrieval. Today,
metal detectors are used in every aspect of gold prospecting. From
searching out the mother lode to finding "placer" deposits, metal detectors
have been found to be indispensable.
Your Tracker was designed to have the capability to eliminate highly
mineralized soil conditions commonly encountered when prospecting. It
will even permeate "black sand", a high content of iron ore in soil, while
still detecting gold nuggets.
To operate your Tracker for finding gold nuggets requires that you turn off
your Discrimination control. (Tracker III or IV users: place toggle switch
in the center) Most gold prospecting is done in remote areas that are
usually known to have produced gold. This will make it easier to detect in
the All Metal Mode because of the minimal trash metal encountered.
Usually, if you're getting a repeatable signal, it will mean that it is worth
The main objective in discovering gold with your Tracker, is determining a
prime location to hunt. This will more than likely be the determining factor
of whether you find gold or not.
The most important approach to gold prospecting, especially if you're a
novice, would be lots of research. It's a good idea to spend some time
understanding how gold forms and where you're likely to find it through
The Tracker metal detector comes standard with a waterproof coil allowing
for more versatility when gold prospecting. A lot of nuggets and flakes of
gold are discovered in stream beds. These nuggets and flakes usually
originated from an outcrop in higher regions that were washed down by
rain to be eventually carried away by streams. When prospecting with a
metal detector it is very difficult to find the flakes of gold because of their
small size. Nuggets are easily detected and can be found in stream beds,
especially where a stream slows down or takes a sharp turn.
Gold nuggets can also be found in dry river beds, mountain sides, and
even in deserts. How many nuggets you find will be dependent on how
serious you are about acquiring the necessary knowledge to make it a
profitable hobby. Successful gold prospecting can take many years of
devoted study and practice.
The Tracker metal detector is a tremendous tool and requires the expertise
only derived from many hours of practice in all areas of application. Where
do the possible uses stop for the Tracker metal detector? Read on about
the many…other ways to use your Tracker.
Other Ways to Use Your Tracker
There are other applications outside of the "Treasure Hunting" category
which will reveal to you the many other practical ways for using your
1. You can use your Tracker for finding survey landmarks or stakes that
delineate property lines. To do this, you need to keep in mind what types
of metal they are made of. Most landmarks and stakes are made of iron.
Because of this, you cannot operate your Tracker in the Discrimination
Mode for you will not be able to detect iron objects. Fortunately, there
usually is not a lot of trash metal to contend with when hunting for
landmarks, and you should have no trouble operating in the All Metals
Motion Mode.
2. Plumbing is also another application. If you ever need to find a shutoff
valve or possibly a pipe, that is not too deep, your Tracker may also fill
your needs. Again, you have to consider what type of metal you're
detecting. If your shutoff valve is made of brass, you will be able to detect it
in the Discrimination Motion Mode. If any of your plumbing fittings
you're looking for are made of iron or galvanized steel you will have to
operate in the All Metals Motion Mode to be able to detect them.
3. Finding nails in boards before breaking or wearing out your saw blade
on it, is also an excellent application for your Tracker. Remember, your
Tracker will usually not pick up a nail in the Discrimination Motion Mode
-- use the All Metals Motion Mode. Many lumber yards are using the
Tracker for this same purpose.
4. If you're into archery, you know how expensive it can be to lose metal
arrowheads. The Tracker has been used effectively to recover arrowheads
for many serious archers.
5. Studs in walls can be found in the All Metals Mode because of the nails
used to hang the drywall. If you're looking for a sturdy place to hang that
heavy picture frame, pull out your Tracker.
6. Sharp trash metal can be cleared out of play areas or swimming areas for
further safety.
These are only a few other possible applications for your Tracker metal
detector. I'm sure you will think of other practical ways to use your
Tracker for good effect. The possible applications are truly endless!
We now need to consider the finer aspects of tuning by learning…ground
balancing for the Tracker 2-D. This will not apply to the Tracker I or
Tracker III or IV since they have automatic ground balancing.
Tracker 2-D Ground Balancing
The Tracker 2-D has one added control that the Tracker I does not
possess: Manual Ground Balance for the All Metal Mode.
The Tracker 2-D has automatic ground balancing when the Discrimination
is turned on. The Tracker 2-D's Ground Balance adjustment only applies
when the Discrimination is turned off (All Metal mode).
All detectors operate with compensation for the mineral conditions or
matrix of the soil, whether automatic or manual. The Tracker I-D, Tracker
III and Tracker IV have automatic ground balancing which is preset at the
factory; whereas, the Tracker 2-D has manual adjustment for ground
The main benefit of manual ground balancing:
You will be able to fine tune your Ground Balance control to give you
maximum performance in highly mineralized soil conditions.
Automatic ground balancing on the Tracker I-D and Tracker III or IV has
its advantages too -- especially when hunting beaches near saltwater. It can
be lot easier to depend on the factory setting for salt condition than to have
to learn how to manually ground balance for this type of highly
mineralized condition. When in a hurry, it's also nice to be able to throw
your detector in the All Metals Motion Mode without any further
adjustment. So, depending on your use of your Tracker usually will
determine the advantage of possessing one feature over the other.
Tracker 2-D Operation Only:
When using your Tracker 2-D in the All Metals Motion Mode, the
Ground Balance will usually need to be adjusted only once in normal
In other words, you need to adjust your Ground Balance to the soil
conditions of the area you're hunting and, unless we change areas, usually
we will not have to adjust it again. If you're gold prospecting, you may
have to adjust more often depending on how many mineralized pockets of
soil you encounter.
Refer to your Tracker 2-D instruction manual for further explanation on
how to adjust your Ground Balance control.
If you're a Tracker III or IV owner it might benefit you to know of the
special features your unit offers illustrated in the next chapter.
The main feature that differentiates the Tracker III or IV from the Tracker ID and 2-D is a three-position toggle switch. This toggle switch enables the
user to either detect all metal, identify targets by tone or to fully reject trash
-- all three positions require motion when targeting a metal object.
1. TONE DISCRIMINATE: This position operates the same as the
Tracker I-D and 2-D with their Discrimination turned on. When operating
the Tracker III or IV in this mode, you will achieve two tones depending
where the Discrimination knob is tuned.
2. FULL DISCRIMINATE: This feature is unique to the Tracker III or IV
only. When the toggle switch is set all the way to the left, in 'Full
Discriminate', the detector will not emit any tones for pull tabs, gold rings,
etc. This applies when the Discrimination knob is tuned at a higher
position. When the Discrimination is tuned lower you will hear only a high
tone on all types of metal.
3. ALL METAL: When the toggle switch is in the center position, the
Tracker III or IV is in the 'All Metal Motion Mode'. All metals will be
detected no matter where the Discrimination knob is tuned. The
Discrimination shuts down completely.
Each one of these controls is used for special applications as is illustrated
in previous chapters.
After getting this far, you've learned the many ways to operate your
Tracker, and yet there are many other aspects of detecting such
as…utilizing special techniques in the field.
There are many approaches to operating your Tracker in the field. Let's
first discuss the proper way that the coil should be swept. Your Tracker
was designed to only target a piece of metal when the coil is in motion
whether in the Discrimination Mode or in All Metals Mode. So how you
swing your coil is very critical. The most effective way, both in increasing
target accuracy and covering more territory, is by using the half-circle
Technique for Coil Motion-The Half Circle Method:
Keep your coil always level with the ground. Never swing your coil as if it
was a pendulum (by raising it off the ground on both ends of a swing).
Every step forward draw a half-circle in front of you as illustrated in the
diagram below. This will maximize the territory you're covering and
guarantee that you will not miss any targets in your path.
Digging Tools-This can be a very critical decision. There are many choices and each one
of them would be predetermined by what you will be looking for. For
coin-shooting you can effectively use a knife, a small garden trowel, a
probe (a long screwdriver for instance), etc. Whenever you are hunting a
yard or a park you must consider using the most least conspicuous tool
possible. Most coins are found 6 inches or less in the soil and do not
justify a large shovel to dig them up.
Always remember, you're pursuing a hobby that requires a lot of respect
for property and by using a small digging tool you will appear harmless in
the field. When and if you are going to use your Tracker for larger objects
besides coins, such as caches and relics, then you may have to resort to
using a larger digging tool since you'll be detecting further depths.
Fortunately, most of this type of hunting is done in more remote areas and
should not warrant having to be methodical in your digging approach to
protect grass. Even though, always be careful to cover your holes wherever
you hunt. Be respectful of property and always attempt to leave the area in
the exact same condition as when you arrived.
By utilizing certain techniques, you can add to the life of your batteries.
A. Use Headphones: By using headphones you're stressing the batteries
far less and in consequence increasing their life.
B. Buy Quality Batteries: Alkaline batteries are your best choice for longer
life and maximum performance.
C. Switching Batteries: By switching the left battery with the right halfway
through their estimated life, you will be balancing the energy draw. One of
the batteries drives the audio on your unit and has more drain on average
than the other battery.
D. Store Batteries Properly: Never leave your batteries in the unit for long
periods when not using your detector. Battery leakage can occur
damaging the battery compartment and possibly the circuitry.
E. Rechargeables: 9-Volt Rechargeable batteries can be used in the
Tracker but do not expect the same life or performance that a commercial
battery provides.
The most commonly asked question of the novice detectorist is: How deep
does my detector go? There are multiple factors that come into play when
determining the depth capability of a detector. The following
considerations, as they apply to the Tracker, may assist you in gaining an
idea of the many influences.
I. Size of Object: This is the most important factor that will influence the
depth of your Tracker. For instance, you may only be able to detect a
quarter at 6-8 inches but a large container of hundreds of quarters can
possibly be detected at 3 feet and upwards.
II. Matrix of the Soil: The mineral content of the soil you're detecting in
will undoubtedly affect the depth capability of your detector.
III. Operator's Expertise: The more you practice with your Tracker the
more likely you will tune in to your detector and begin to find deeper
objects that beginners would walk right over.
IV. Sensitivity Control: Your Tracker's Sensitivity Mode can be adjusted to
maximize depth, but you have to be careful not to ride your Sensitivity too
high or you may also get a lot of false signaling.
V. Discrimination Control: Whenever you turn your Discrimination
control on you will lose a little sensitivity, and when you do feel you need
the extra depth, it is best to operate in the All Metals Motion Mode.
VI. Oxidation: The longer an object is buried, the more the conductivity. If
for instance you were to bury a new quarter you would go only 6 inches or
less on it as compared to a quarter that's been buried for 30 years you may
detect upwards of 8 inches.
You should be, by now, a little curious about the wonders of the
technology that drives a metal detector.
To illustrate the true complexity of how the Tracker accomplishes the task
of finding metal, would require a few hundred pages and a large dictionary
to decipher the terminology related to electronics
It is a good idea just the same to make an attempt to understand what
basically makes a metal detector tick. This understanding might even
improve your technique.
The batteries drive the circuitry to emit electromagnetic wavelengths into
the soil where metal may or may not be present.
If there is metal, the electromagnetic wavelengths will be absorbed by the
metal and will deplete the signal being emitted. This depletion of signal is
recognized by the circuitry by a phase shift in the coil, depending on the
alloy and size of the metal, the Tracker will then decide if it is to emit no
tone (In Discrimination for iron, etc.), a low tone (nickels, "beaver tails",
gold rings, etc.), or a high tone (silver, copper, brass, etc.)
This is only meant to be an overview of how the Tracker electronics
function. Hopefully, this piques your interest in the wonders of metal
detecting technology.
To truly tap into the full potential of your Tracker, always remember that
…practice makes perfect.
Don't get discouraged if you feel you aren't learning how to operate your
Tracker as quick as you would like. Most of what you'll learn will depend
on how much you practice. There are so many subtle aspects to detecting
that cannot be learned from a book. As you work with your Tracker in the
field, you'll acquire more and more knowledge that will accumulate and
refine your skills with your Tracker.
I feel that no matter how many times I swing a coil, there's always
something new to learn. Mastering the art of metal detecting can take
many years of practice. The many interesting and valuable metal objects
that you will dig up, and the many hours of enjoyment gained from
swinging your Tracker coil, will make the learning process enjoyable and
certainly not a drudgery.
After gaining the confidence in learning how to fully operate your Tracker
and mastering the techniques described in this guide, you will find it easier
to practice because you've bypassed many of the frustrations normally
encountered in the field.
The Tracker I-D, Tracker 2-D, and Tracker III or IV, are excellent metal
detectors that suffice for many types of uses. Today's Bounty Hunter and
Teknetics technology offers the full spectrum of metal detectors which offer
every feature imaginable.
These major developments and engineering feats surpasses the industry
standard and make the hobby of metal detecting rewarding and especially
more fun to pursue.
If you've gotten this far, and applied all experiments and techniques
illustrated in this book, you are sufficiently prepared for most any type of
in-the-field encounter. Again, most of the knowledge you gain will be in
applying your Tracker not reading about it. So keep on digging and
always remember the…
1. Respect the rights and property of others.
2. Observe all laws, whether national, state or local.
3. Never destroy historical or archaeological treasures.
4. Leave the land & vegetation as it was. Fill in all holes.
5. All treasure hunters may be judged by the example you set. Always
obtain permission before searching any site. Be extremely careful with
your probing, picking up and discarding of trash, and
The End.
Bounty Hunter® Metal Detectors
First Texas Manufacturing Co.
11900 Montana Ave.
El Paso, TX 79936