Expobar | Crema Digital | Office Leva EX 237 2 Kessel

Office Leva EX 237 2 Kessel
Office Leva EX 237 2
Kessel
Breite:
Tiefe:
Höhe:
260mm
450mm
430mm
Gewicht:
25kg
Heizleistung: 1.200W
M³:
0,05
Kessel:
Pumpe:
Anschluß:
2 x 1,7l
16 Bar
230V, 50 Hz
Die Krönung der Technologie ist die 1961 entwickelte Faema E61 Brühgruppe aus massivem verchromten
Messing, aktiv beheizt und mit Hebelsteuerung, die auch heute noch zur Standardausführung in den meisten
Profi-Gastronomiemaschinen gehört:
Der große hochstehende 1,7 Liter Kupferboiler funktioniert nach dem Wärmetauscherprinzip und hält auch
größerem Andrang stand.
So funktioniert Genuß
Die LEVA ist eine echte Innovation unter den Espressomaschinen: Stilecht im Design und außergewöhnlich in
ihrer Funktionalität. Denn für die Espressozubereitung können alle Systeme genutzt werden, sowohl gemahlener
Kaffee als auch Cialde. Einzigartig ist auch das neu entwickelte Thermosiphon System mit senkrecht aufgebautem
Boiler. Damit bleibt die Brühtemperatur immer konstant und garantiert eine durchgehende Qualität für jede
Zubereitungsart. Dauerdampf ermöglicht die gleichzeitig Zubereitung von Kaffee und Milchschaum. Mit einem
Fassungsvermögen von fast 3 Litern ist der Wassertank der größte seiner Klasse, der sich dank der großen
Tanköffnung bequem befüllen läst. Optional wird die Maschine auch mit Festwasseranschluß geliefert.
Vier rutschfeste Füße verleihen der Maschine einen sicheren Stand. Das Innenleben ist durch abnehmbare
Seitenteile leicht einsehbar, so lassen sich Ersatzteile (deutschlandweiter Service) problemlos einbauen.
Verchromter, zwei Millimeter dicker Edelstahl (INOX) sowie die hochwertige Verarbeitung und massive Bauweise
gewährleisten eine lange Lebensdauer. Servieren auch Sie italienische Kaffeekultur – mit der LEVA
Espressomaschine.
Die Leva ist nicht nur optisch ein Blickfang, auch technisch erfüllt sie professionelle Ansprüche. Den Vergleich mit
Espressomaschinen italienischen Bars braucht sie nicht zu scheuen. Caffèzubereitung, Dampf- und
Heißwasserentnahme für Tee oder Instantgetränke sind gleichzeitig möglich. Durch die automatische
Füllstandskontrolle im Boiler, sowie im Wassertank ist die Espressomaschine für den Dauerbetrieb bestens
geeignet.
2
3
Technische Daten:
-
2 x großer Kupferkessel 1700 ml
Leistung pro Tag = 200 bis 300 Tassen Espresso
Leistung pro Stunde = bis maximal 80 Tassen Kaffee
1 Siebträger mit je einem 7 Gr. Sieb und einem 14 Gr. Sieb, Stampfer, Messlöffel, Wasserfilter
automatische Kessel-Wasserstandsregulierung
Thermosyphon-System (Wärmetauscher)
gepanzerter Heizkörper
Profibrühkopf der Faema E 61 aus massivem Messing , verchromt
Pressostatsteuerung, Überdruckventil
Überhitzungsschutz, Elektromagnetventil
Hochleistungs-Ulka-Pumpe 16 Bar
Profi-Giemme-Elektronik
Kesseldruck - Manometer
Extra starkes reines Edelstahlgehäuse (AISI 304)
Zwei schwenkbare Düsen zur permanenten Dampf- und Heißwasserentnahme
keine Aufheizzeit zum Dampfen
kein Entlüften nach Dampfentnahme
automatische Abschaltung bei fehlendem oder zu wenig Wasser
Tassenvorwärmfläche
Einfaches Abnehmen der Wärmfläche und befüllen des darunter liegenden Wassertanks
Kontroll – Leuchten, Kippschalter
Office Leva 1 Gr. Ausführung
Dampfhahn
Heisswasser
Gehäuse
Farben
1
1
Edelstahl, Seitenverkleidung INOX
Edelstahl
Wasseranschluss
Anschluss
Wassertank 3 L oder Optional direkt 3/8“
Druck
1-5 bar
Ablauf
Behälter
Wasserhärte 4-6 dKH°
4
Brewtus Operating Manual
April 2005
5
Chapter I: Unpacking the Machine
The Brewtus is a very heavy machine, weighing in at 61 pounds. Use care in removing
the Expobar box from within the shipping carton. After you have done so, turn the
Expobar box upside down, open the bottom four flaps, turn the box right side up and lift
the box straight up. Then lay the machine on its side and remove the top layer of molded
foam. Next, carefully remove the machine from the bottom piece of molded foam. It is
easier to have a second person helping during this operation as the machine is heavy and
the bottom piece may stick to the machine.
Included Accessories: The accessories include are a portafilter with double spout, single
shot filter basket, double shot filter basket, a plastic tamper, back flush disk, and a coffee
scoop.
Chapter II: The Anatomy of the Brewtus
What’s inside that gleaming exoskeleton?
1. How It All Works:
The Brewtus is a double boiler, E61 brewgroup espresso machine utilizing some very
clever techniques and controls to enable 120V operation of two 1000 W boiler heaters
and pump from a 15 amp service.
We hope that this section will take some of the mystery out of the things that go on
inside your machine while it is operating and during idle times as well.
2. The Boilers:
The single feature that distinguishes this machine from the vast majority of other
makes and models in both the commercial and home market place, is the double
boiler system and how it handles the interaction between brew and steam boilers.
Note: Now is an excellent time to become acquainted with the schematic diagram
of the plumbing of the machine on page 7 of this manual. Item numbers on the
schematic will be shown as superscripts throughout this section.
In the center of the diagram are the two 1.7L boilers; Steam46 and Brew47, each
Boiler has a 1000W heater16 that is screwed in from the bottom of the boiler. With
the exception of a heat exchanger42 installed in the steam boiler for brew boiler
feedwater pre-heat, the construction of the two units is identical. Fittings on the
boilers are BSPP thread of various sizes and consist of the following:
Brew Boiler:
•
Upper feedwater from the Steam boiler HX.
•
Upper supply to the Brewgroup.
•
Lower return from the Brewgroup.
Steam Boiler:
•
Lower inlet to HX for Brew boiler feed water from the pump.
•
Lower inlet for steam boiler fill from solenoid valve.
6
•
•
•
•
•
Lower outlet to hot water tap.
Upper outlet from HX to brew boiler.
Upper outlet to steam wand/Pressurestat.
Fitting for water level sensor.25
Fitting for a vacuum break assembly.
Conditions during operation:
Idle:
•
Brew boiler47 will be completely full of water including the brewgroup35 (a
very slight air gap may exist in the brewgroup). Thermosyphon action will
be circulating hot water from the top of the boiler into the brewgroup35
where it cools and exits out the bottom pipe of the group and returns to the
bottom of the boiler, pulling more hot water into the top of the group as it
settles.
•
The steam boiler46 is kept half-full by virtue of the electronic level control
sensor28, this allows sufficient steam for frothing and ~ 760ml of water for
the hot water tap. Boiler pressure is regulated at 1.2Bar by the
pressurestat31 and the HX42 is full of feedwater for the brew boiler. The
vacuum break23 is held closed by the steam pressure and will emit a slight
hissing sound during warm-up only.
Brew:
•
The Pump3 maintains 9Bar of pressure through the HX42 in the steam
boiler46 where the feedwater is pre-heated and then routed to the top of the
brew boiler47 that is also maintained at 9Bar during brew. This water flows
out of the brew boiler to the brewgroup35 and then out of the machine into
the drip pan.
•
The steam boiler46 will drop in temperature during brewing due to the
cooling effects of the incoming feedwater in the HX42. This cooling action
will most likely cause the pressurestat31 to call for steam boiler heat16/46;
when this happens, the heat to the brew boiler16/47 is put in standby until
1.2Bar is reached.
•
The solenoid valve11 is not activated at this time.
Steam boiler details:
•
The steam boiler46 will automatically refill itself when the water level
drops below the bottom of the level sensor28. When this happens, the
control module (not pictured) will activate the pump3 and the solenoid
valve11to fill the steam boiler46. The water will flow into the steam boiler46
by virtue of the fact that the brew boiler47 circuit is already filled with
water; forcing the water to flow into the steam boiler until it reaches the
level sensor28.
•
The safety relief37 opens at approximately 1.8Bar
•
The vacuum break23 is a valve that is held closed by boiler pressure, it will
hiss during warm-up until enough pressure is built up to hold it closed.
This valve prevents pump operation issues and also prevents generation of
a vacuum in the steam boiler46. A vacuum can draw contaminated water
7
back into the boiler in the event that either the steam wand36 or the water
wand34 are left submerged in pitchers of water/milk when the machine is
turned off.
3. The Pump:
The “pump” consists of three distinct components:
•
A 41watt Ulka or 50watt CEME vibe pump3
•
A de-aeration valve45 to reduce the incidence of air bubbles in the pump
output.
•
An Over-Pressure-Valve or OPV5 that regulates the system brew pressure.
Some machines have shipped with an Ulka pump and others have the original
CEME version. Both pumps are fine units and should give years of trouble-free
service. The pump3 inlet line is connected to a water softener39 that is at the end of
the intake hose. As the water leaves the pump3, it passes through a de-aeration
valve45 that removes the air bubbles that may be present in the water. The deaeration valve45 is essentially a port with a very fine opening that allows air to
pass easily, but presents a difficult path for water to pass. This port is vented back
to the water reservior38 for recovery of the water that does pass through the port.
After the water passes the de-aeration valve it comes to the OPV5, this valve uses
an adjustable, spring-loaded ball that opens when a pre-set pressure is exceeded.
When the ball opens, the excess pressure (water) is vented back to the water
reservoir38 until the pressure lowers to the pre-set value. At times, this process of
open-close can cause slight “moaning” noises, this is not detrimental, just noisy.
Incorporated into the outlet of the OPV is a one-way check valve44, this valve
prevents water backflow through the pump assembly.
4. The Electronics:
Temperature control
Temperature control of the brew boiler is maintained by a digital on/off type
control. The control is a 2-digit display unit set for readout in degrees Celsius
with adjustments to brew temperature in 1 degree increments. Temperature
sensing is via a proprietary sensor that is inserted into a thermowell in the
brew boiler and which is held in place with thermally conductive paste.
Programmed into the control is an offset between the measured boiler
temperature and the displayed value on the control; this compensates for the
temperature difference between the boiler and the brewgroup. Displayed value
should reflect the temperature of the brewgroup.
System Control, A.K.A “The Brain Box”:
Control of the overall system is performed by a small black box mounted
behind the front panel, just below the temperature controller. This controller
coordinates the automatic refilling of the steam boiler and the logic required
for switching the pump on during brewing.
8
Inputs to this unit are:
•
The spring-loaded switch under the reservoir for detection of an empty
reservoir.
•
The microswitch for the pump. (behind the brew handle)
•
The level sensor in the steam boiler.
Outputs from this unit are:
•
The pump.
•
Heater power for the boilers.
•
Solenoid valve control.
The heaters:
The heater control for the machine is actually very straightforward. The steam
boiler has priority in this system and that prioritizing is performed via the
pressurestat. Overall, the switch on the platform for the reservoir controls
power to the boilers. This power is then routed to the pressurestat where the
steam boiler is assigned priority by the SPST switch on the pressurestat.
•
•
When the steam pressure is below ~1.1Bar, the pressurestat switches
power to the steam boiler heater through the safety thermostat (steam).
When the pressure is above ~1.2Bar, the power is routed to the brew
temperature controller and then through the safety thermostat (brew) and
brew boiler heater.
IMPORTANT:
It is possible to for the light for the steam boiler to be on at the same time that
the digital temperature controller is calling for heat (small LED in the upper
left hand corner of the display); keep in mind, that although the temperature
controller is calling for heat, all power switching for boiler priority is done at
the pressurestat and the display only reflects a “request” for heat in the brew
boiler.
Notes:
a. The control can be programmed to read in degrees Fahrenheit but due
to the 2 digit display limitation; it will display an E1 (out of range)
error when the display rolls from 99 to 100; this will also occur if the
temperature exceeds 100 degrees Celsius at any time. Normal
operation will resume once the temperature displayed drops below the
“100” value.
b. Programming information for the controller can be found in Appendix
A on page 26 of this manual.
9
Schematic of the Internal Parts of the Brewtus
To zoom in, hold down your CTRL key and move the scroll wheel on your mouse
Nomenclature Translation:
03 Pump Housing
05 Complete Pump Bypass Housing & OVP Valve
11 Charged Electrical Valve
16 Resistance Heater Coil
22 Thermostat Housing
23 Relief Valve
28 Water Level Control Sensor Valve
31 Pressure Gauge
34 Water Faucet Assembly
35 Brewgroup Assembly
36 Steam Faucet Assembly
37 Safety Valve
38 Plastic Water Reservoir
39 Water Softener Orifice
42 Thermal Pipe
43 Expansion Valve
44 Retention Valve
45 De-aeration Valve
46 Boiler with Thermal Sensor
47 Boiler Without Thermal Sensor
10
Description of the controls
Cup warmer and reservoir access
Main Power Switch
Steam Boiler
Pressure Gauge
Steam Knob
Hot Water Knob
Steam Boiler Light
Heat Insulator
Control Lever
Steam Wand
Hot Water Wand
Control Panel W/ Digital Display
Removable drip tray
E61 Brew Group
Portafilter handle
Identifying the Important Features of the Machine
Control Lever: The control lever on the front of the machine controls a valve inside of
the brewgroup and controls the pump for brewing. The lever has three positions: up,
middle and down.
1. Up: When the lever is in the up position, the pump turns on for brewing and the valve
inside the brewgroup opens and allows water to flow under pressure onto the coffee
grounds.
2. Middle: When in the middle position, the pump is turned off but the pressure in the
brewgroup has not been released. Do not attempt to remove the portafilter yet!
3. Down: When in the down position, any pressure left in the group is released and
deposited into the drip tray through the bottom of the brewgroup. Important: Always
move the lever to the full down position before removing the portafilter handle from
the brewgroup!
11
Main Power Switch: The main power switch is the red-lighted switch on the top left side
of the front of the machine. When the switch is engaged, the machine will automatically
begin the heating up cycle.
Steam Boiler Light: This is the round red light on the right of the machine. It will turn on
whenever the heating element in the steam boiler is on. It is perfectly normal for this light
to turn on or off without any discernable pattern.
Pressure Gauge: The pressure gauge shows the amount of pressure inside the steam
boiler. The pressure comes pre-set from the factory at around 1.2 Bar. This is the proper
steam boiler pressure and there should be no needs to make any adjustments. The needle
will go down during steaming but will quickly rise up as the steam boiler element is
activated.
Steam Knob: When this knob is turned counter clockwise, the steam valve is opened and
high-pressure steam will exit through the steam wand.
Hot Water Knob: When this knob is turned counter clockwise, steam and hot water will
exit through the hot water wand. Note: Use caution when using this function as boiling
water exiting the wand can cause painful burns.
Steam Wand: Always use caution while steaming and frothing milk as the wand will
become very hot. When adjusting the position of the wand, only grip the black rubber
insulator.
E61 Brew Group:
The brew group will become very hot so always use caution while working with the
machine.
E61 Brew Group Very Hot
Water exits here when lever
in the down position.
12
Control Panel with Digital Display:
LED # 2: Flashes when in Program Mode
LED #1: On whenever the brew boiler is
Up Key: Raises value on display
Set Key: Enter and exit from program mode
Down Key: Lowers the value on the display
This electronic controller is designed to monitor, control and regulate
the temperature of the brewing boiler only. All temperature is in
Celsius.
It has no control over the steam boiler. It has two functions; it will display the current
temperature inside the brewing boiler and will be used to adjust the temperature of the
brewing boiler only. We recommend brewing between 95 and 96 Degrees C.
Display functions: All temperature readings are in Celsius. It has no control over the
steam boiler whatsoever.
1. On start up, the digital display will show the current temperature inside the boiler and
the LED will illuminate when the boiler is on. You will see the temperature numbers
change as the boiler is heating.
2. When the boiler reaches the set temperature the LED will go out. When the boiler
cycles on again, the LED will illuminate.
Note: The steam boiler is the first to heat and will take about eight to ten minutes and
then the brewing boiler will turn on. Both boilers will not operate at the same time.
Programming the Brewing Boiler Temperature: When you want to change the
temperature of the brewing boiler, please follow the next set of instructions:
1. Push and hold the “Set Key” until the second smaller LED starts flashing.
2. Push the “Up Key” or the “Down Key” until the desired temperature is displayed.
3. Push and release the “Set Key” to accept the new temperature setting.
Celius
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
195,8 197.6 199.4 201.2 203
204.8 206.6
Fahrenheit 192.2 194
Steam Boiler Adjustments: We do not recommend attempting any adjustments to the
steam boiler. It is set for 1.2 Bar, which works very well with the Brewtus.
13
Chapter III: Preparing the Machine for Start Up
1. Remove the white protective covering from all parts of the machine,
2. Remove reservoir from inside of the top of the machine and wash it out with
warm soapy water and be sure to rinse well.
3. Fill the Reservoir with water and place it back in the machine. Make sure the
plastic tubes are placed back into the reservoir and are not pinched anywhere.
Note: Do not use water that has had all the minerals removed, e.g., distilled water.
Minerals are necessary for the sensors in the boilers to work properly.
4. Plug the machine into an outlet that matches the three-pronged plug on the cord.
The machine must be grounded! If you have any questions regarding this, call
Tech Support at 888-411-5282 before proceeding further.
5. Turn on the main power switch and lift the lever on the brewgroup to the top
position to start the pump and fill both the main brew boiler and the steam boiler,
both of which have a 1.7-liter capacity. Leave the lever in this position until there
is a steady stream of water coming out of the brewgroup.
6. Look into the reservoir to see if the water level is lowering as the boilers fill. If
the water is not lowering, the pump is having a difficult time priming. Turn off
the machine and call us at the phone number given above for further instructions.
7. If the boilers filled and this step was successful, move the lever down to the
neutral or middle position and let the machine heat up—about 20 minutes.
Important: Now you must refill the reservoir, as it will be critically low.
8. Always leave the empty portafilter in the brewgroup so that it will always be hot
and ready for use.
NOTES:
14
Chapter IV: Understanding Water Quality and the Water Softener
Defining Water hardness: Water hardness often is expressed as milligrams of hardness
per liter of water (mg/L). Table I, adapted from the Water Quality Association (WQA),
shows hardness classifications. Hardness ions are typically combined with sulfate,
chloride, carbonate, or bicarbonate ions. For consistency, concentrations are generally
converted to the equivalent concentration as calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and expressed in
terms of hardness as calcium carbonate.
Table I. Classification of water hardness (hardness as calcium carbonate).
Classification
mg/l or ppm
grains/gal
Soft
0 – 17.1
0–1
Slightly hard
17.1 – 60
1 – 3.5
Moderately hard
60 – 120
3.5 – 7.0
Hard
120 – 180
7.0 – 10.5
Very Hard
180 & over
10.5 & over
For our purposes here, it will suffice if you understand that dissolved calcium and
magnesium salts are primarily responsible for most scaling in pipes, water heaters as well
as espresso boilers. Hardness is usually expressed in grains per gallon (or ppm) as
calcium carbonate equivalent. However, because we are dealing with very small
quantities of water for our purposes, our reference should always be made in parts per
million or ppm.
It is important to have your water tested if you intend to use tap water in the reservoir of
your espresso machine to brew coffee. Tap water, it should be noted, may also have
chlorine, ozone and/or sulphur as well as numerous other chemicals that can adversely
affect the taste of your coffee. Thus, you may ultimately prefer bottled water or water
from your own filtering system or device.
A typical home water purification system uses a prefilter to remove particulates, then a
reverse osmosis filter, and a final filter, which contains a solid block carbon (charcoal)
filter. This type of system removes nearly all of the priority pollutants as well as bacteria.
They are widely available from various companies listed in your local Yellow Pages.
Generally, a dedicated water faucet is installed on the sink from which to draw the
purified water. A line can also be run to the refrigerator water dispenser. These systems
condition the water admirably and samples will typically test between 25 and 50ppm
hardness. The downside is that they are costly and can run upwards of $500.
To have a sample of water tested for hardness, use a clean well-rinsed screw-top
container and take the sample in to your nearest swimming pool supply store. They will
usually perform a hardness test free of charge.
15
Note: Many manufacturers of coffee machines recommend you use distilled water in
their machines. The Brewtus is an exception because the dissolved salts enable the boiler
sensors to do their job.
The Brewtus comes with a convenient water softener that will help keep damaging
minerals out the boilers. There is nothing that has to be done on initial start up to get the
water softener ready for use. After 3 months of use it is recommended that it be
recharged.
Water reservoir
Water softener filter
Recharging Instructions:
a) Fill the water reservoir.
b) Pour in 3 big spoons of salt.
c) Stir the salt into the water.
d) Insert the water softener filter inside the reservoir.
e) Drain the water from the reservoir through the water softener filter.
To drain the water from the reservoir:
• Place the plastic tube as it is indicated.
• Suck in the tube until it fills with water.
• Press your finger over the inlet from the tube in order to avoid any air.
• While the tube is being pressed, place the inlet from the tube downwards
(as indicated). Wait until the reservoir is completely empty.
Once the water reservoir is empty, fill it again with water (without salt) and repeat the
process, in order to clean the water softener filter.
Plastic tube
Drain the water from the tank
this way
Water tank filled with salty water
Water softener filter
Salty water outlet
16
Liters of softened water, depending on its hardness
(In French Degrees)
Water
Hardness
Maximum
Volume of water
softened by filter
Salt
20
30
40
60
80
Grams
11
9
8
7
5
300
Now you are ready to proceed to Chapter V: Brewing and Operating Techniques.
17
Chapter V: Brewing and Operating Techniques
Getting Ready to Brew: After you have pulled about four “blank” shots to clean and
normalize the machine, please be sure to refill the reservoir. A blank shot is simply a shot
without grounds in the basket. Now you are ready to pull your first real shot of espresso!
As you work through the following steps while learning to use your new machine and
calibrating your grinder, you may use up to a pound of coffee so be sure you have plenty
of the very same kind on hand.
To answer the age-old question of why Italian coffee is so amazing, Paul Bennett from
Bon Appetit magazine asked Luca Vizzini, the head barista at Tazza d’Oro in Rome the
same question. He says it is three m’s: miscela (the mixture of coffee; usually four or five
beans), macchina (the machine), and mano (the preparation, ideally by someone who
understands “the art of espresso”).
The entire theory of the extraction process for our purposes here can be summarized in
four words: Temperature, Grind, Dose and Tamp. As each of these factors constitutes a
variable, it is therefore vitally important to gain complete control of the techniques
required of each. Thankfully, with a little practice and understanding they are not difficult
to master.
Temperature: Perhaps the primary reason aficionados decide to purchase the Expobar
Brewtus, is its remarkable ability to maintain the exact temperature in the boilers and
brewgroup required for perfect extraction, thus virtually eliminating temperature from the
list, though it is the most critical factor of all. Other machines require the seasoned barista
to perform a series of quick manipulations, sometimes called “temperature surfing”, to
achieve the desired brewhead temperature. The Brewtus does it all for you electronically
and in combination with the E61 brewgroup which circulates the hot water through
brewing head surrounding the portafilter and basket. There is nothing to forget to do or
anything left to chance. Moreover, any guesswork is eliminated with the digital heat
gauge and the boiler pressure gauge for both the steam and hot water wands.
Grinding and Dosing: The following set of instructions begins with the assumption you
will be grinding and dosing directly into the filter basket by itself (or into a spare one, or
some other small container, which you can then dump into the actual one). During the
grinding step, the portafilter handle can remain in the brewgroup to maintain its heat.
However, if at first you choose to fill the basket while it is seated in the portafilter handle,
remove the handle from the group, dry the basket and dose and tamp as quickly as
possible. Then return the handle to the brewgroup immediately so it does not lose too
much precious heat!
Of the four variables, temp, grind/dose and tamp, the grind/dose step is the process many
people find the most vexing. The object here is to grind exactly 14 grams into the double
filter basket. However, the problems that frequently occur with nearly all grinders are the
effects of temperature, humidity, freshness, roast and variety of the beans as well as the
18
selected fineness of the setting. The finest settings may create a powdery grind, which
produces tiny balls or causes the grinds to stick in the chute or doser. Worse, too fine a
grind may prevent the water from penetrating the puck at all.
On the other hand, too coarse a grind adversely affects shot quality and diminishes the
amount of the desired crema and flavor. The only solution is to experiment to determine
which settings are the right ones for your grinder, beans and ambient conditions. Bear in
mind the grind should most often imitate very fine sand, not a silky powder.
Tip: While standard food scales tend to be inexact as well as bulky, there is another class
of scales known as pocket scales. These tiny precision wonders are usually accurate to ±
1/10th of a gram. Some people will put the basket on the scale’s platform and for every
shot grind 14 grams directly into it, then transfer it to the handle, which has been heating
in the group head. Others fill a small container on the scale and then fill the heated
basket.
Note: If you elect to dose into the basket itself each time then you will have to contend
with the issue of the spring in the portafilter, which holds the basket very tightly in place.
It will need to be adjusted for tension or removed entirely to use this method successfully.
Thus, grinding directly into the basket in the handle without removing it, and then
tamping, may work the best for you—but be sure to work quickly so heat is not lost.
Still another option is to weigh each dose until the grinder is properly calibrated for the
dose amount. You will have to do this often with changes in the weather, grind setting or
different batches of roasted beans. In the end, many people simply learn to determine
what a reasonable approximation of what 14 grams looks like in the basket. With
practice, this method can become surprisingly accurate.
Others like to overfill the basket and use a straight edge to level off before tamping. This,
however, is quite messy and surely a waste of good coffee and does not necessarily
assure an accurate dose.
It is important to remember that consistency with each step builds a professional
foundation of accuracy, so choose a routine you like and stay with it.
Tamping: Much has been written about this subject and its importance. The David
Schomer method seems to be the most widely adopted tamping method. Quite simply, it
involves distributing the grounds in north, south, east and west directions with the finger
until they are level and even but with a slight indentation or well in the center. Then a 30
to 40 pound tamp is delivered straight down with a twisting motion. After carefully
removing the tamper, lightly tap the side of the filter or basket with the tamper to
dislodge any loose grounds. Tamp and polish again. Sometimes three tamps may be
required. To test your tamp pressure, practice with a bathroom scale.
Now you are ready to return the basket or filter handle to the brew head and begin your
shot. If you have done the tamp step correctly you have successfully minimized the
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negative effects of another variable. The good news is the Brewtus is about to help you
with your tamp also, thanks to its ability to pre-infuse the grounds with hot water.
Progressive Coffee Infusion: the Brewtus’s specialized brewing system enables a
smoother delivery of the pressurized hot water to the grounds in the basket in order to
moisten them before the full force of the hot water hits them. This is a unique ability
among machines and it effectively eliminates channeling or pinholes in the puck that are
responsible for weak shots with very little crema.
Brewing: Okay, without further ado, it is time to pull the perfect shot! First, move the
lever to full up position and let the pump run about 2 to 4 ounces of water through the
empty portafilter basket and handle into the cup you plan to use. This step pre-heats the
cup and also brings the brewgroup up to temperature if it has been sitting idle for a while.
Do not forget to move the lever to the fully lowered position before you remove the
handle to release any pressure and/or water. Quickly dry the surface of the basket with a
towel and grind, dose and fill the basket. Tamp as described above. Now return the
handle to the brewgroup and tighten it by moving the handle to the right or
counterclockwise.
Next, if your cup has cooled you can refill it with hot water from the wand on the right,
being mindful that it is also under pressure and can scald the skin if you open it too
quickly.
Now is a good time to do a quick cleanup of any spilled grounds, wet spots on the
counter, and take out your milk and pitcher from the fridge if you intend to froth for a
cappuccino. A cold pitcher and cold milk create the best microfoam.
Zero your timer, empty the hot water from the cup into the drip tray and center it under
the spout. Now simultaneously hit the timer’s start button and move the lever up to the
brew position and the pump will turn on. In a few seconds, the brew should emerge from
the spout hesitatingly in long strings, turning to a light chestnut color as it becomes
crema. Timing your shot, it should take 23 to 28 seconds to produce a double espresso
shot of 2 to 2.5 ounces. Now, to end the shot, immediately move the lever to the full
downward position! The heat and water pressure are instantly relieved in the brewhead
and excess water pours down the drainpipe into the drip tray.
If you are now looking at a beautiful head of golden crema sitting atop your brew,
everything went according to plan. Excellent! Great job! If not, you may need to adjust
one or both of the two variables of the grind/dose or tamp steps. Be patient as it often
takes a half dozen or so attempts before you get all the factors working together just right.
Important: NEVER attempt to remove the portafilter handle without relieving the
pressure or you may get a mild scalding as well as blow wet grounds onto your work
area. Also, forgetting to relieve the pressure by putting the lever in the full down position
and only lowering it to the middle position, just to where the pump stops, will cause
excess brewing water to drip into your cup and turn your double espresso into an
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Americano. This is still a very nice drink but not what you intended here. This is a very
common mistake with new lever machine users. This writer actually developed a liking
for Americanos by making this mistake three times in a row over two days!
At this point, feel free to enjoy your double espresso and come back later to do the few
minor points of cleanup which will be discussed next. However, if you are making a
cappuccino, let’s move on…
Frothing: Much has been written about the subject of frothing when actually it is the
easiest part of the brewing ritual. The main factors to successful frothing are: 1) Use the
correct sized pitcher and fill it no more than a third full as the milk will triple in volume.
2) Chill or freeze the pitcher and use very cold milk. 3) Use a frothing thermometer until
you learn to “feel the heat” in the pitcher.
There are two techniques that are commonly used to froth, but first point the steam wand
into the trip tray and open the valve slightly to release any watery steam. You want pure
steam vapor.
The first technique involves inserting the steam tip just off-center and barely under the
surface of the milk to circulate it and create foam. Do this until the thermometer reaches
100 degrees. Then bury the wand to about 1/8th of an inch from the bottom and tilt the
pitcher slightly to create a vortex in the milk. Continue until the milk reaches a temp of
155 to 160 degrees, but no higher or you will scorch the milk. The pitcher should now
contain froth up to the brim.
The second technique is just the opposite in that you begin with the wand near the bottom
of the pitcher and as the thermometer rises to 100 degrees, you very slowly bring the
wand up to the surface, always maintaining the vortex. This is called “stretching”.
After you have finished frothing and set the pitcher down, immediately take a wet cloth
or small scouring pad and clean the drying milk from the wand. Point the wand into the
drip tray again and open the valve briefly to clear the tip of dried milk.
One final note—do you pour or may you spoon the foam into the cup? The vast majority
of home baristas admit to using a spoon most of the time. The professional baristas insist
pouring is the only acceptable method. If your pitcher contains near-perfect microfoam,
then by all means, learn to pour and thus you will have taken the first step to learning
latte art.
The Quick and Final Cleanup: You left the lever in the full down position after pulling
your shot, so remove your portafilter handle and give it a tap on the knock box. The dry
puck should fall out leaving a clean basket, requiring only a quick wipe with a bar rag or
paper towel. Next move the lever up to brew for a couple of seconds to rinse any residue
off the shower screen with hot water and then give it a wipe.
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After you empty the drip tray, please do not forget to check and fill the reservoir.
Incorporating this step into your cleanup routine at this time will avoid the inconvenience
of the Brewtus shutting itself down to protect an empty boiler.
The Best Advice: The best advice you will ever receive is “Practice consistency!” Create
a step by step brewing routine and maintain it until it becomes second nature. Polish and
perfect each individual step within your routine and in no time at all, you will be serving
the best coffee drinks money can buy. That is a guarantee!
Chapter VI: Machine Maintenance
Don’t forget to wash out the reservoir with hot water and liquid detergent occasionally.
Cleaning the brew head is necessary in order to maintain the quality of flavor you expect
and are accustomed to with your new Brewtus. There are three different processes used to
thoroughly clean the machine: 1) Backflushing with water only, 2) backflushing with a
specialized cleaner and 3) removing the shower screen for cleaning by hand.
Under normal household conditions, it is recommended you backflush with water only
about every ten to 14 days to remove any grinds or sediment buildup within the
brewgroup and the water lines.
Using a recommended product, such as Urnex® Cafiza Espresso Machine Cleaner, you
should backflush about six times a year.
We also recommend you remove the shower screen, inspect and clean it as well as the
brewgroup behind the screen. Do this inside cleaning as often as you feel it is necessary
after inspecting it during the regular cleaning intervals.
Next, to prepare for a backflush cycle, your machine must be up to brew temperature and
pressure. Important: Please make sure your drip tray is clean and empty.
The Water-Only Backflush:
1. Install the single shot filter basket in the portafilter and place the rubber backflush
disc in the filter basket with the nipple side facing up.
2. Raise the control lever up to the brew position for 5 to 10 seconds. Listen carefully to
the pump. You will notice an audible decrease in water volume as the machine
pressurizes.
3. Turn the lever to the full down position to release the pressure. You will notice an
immediate stream of pressurized backflush water jetting into the drip tray. Now check the
water in the tray. Is it dirty or does it contain particles? If so, repeat the process until the
released water runs out clean.
The Backflush with Cleaner: The recommended maintenance interval for backflushing
with a cleaner is six times a year under normal usage. WLL prefers Urnex® Cafiza as it
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gives excellent results and is easy to use. Simply add ½ teaspoon of Cafiza cleaner to the
blind filter basket or backflush disc and follow the exact same procedure as above. It may
take five cycles or more to completely clean the machine. Thereafter, rinse the brewgroup
thoroughly and backflush four times without any cleaner. Repeat until you are absolutely
sure that no cleaner remains in the system.
Cleaning the Brewgroup by Hand: Wait until the machine is cold to avoid burns!
1. First remove the shower screen under the brew head. Using a flat head screwdriver,
wiggle the screen out as it is a press fit. Work it a little on one side, then the other. Both
the screen and gasket will come out together.
2. Separate the screen from the gasket as the cleaning solution can damage plastic and
rubber parts. Note: Remember what side of the gasket faces up.
3. Mix up a solution of Urnex® Cafiza Espresso Machine Cleaner and very hot water in
a container. Use 2 tablespoons of cleaner but only fill the container halfway as it will
foam up.
4. Soak the shower screen, shot baskets and portafilter head in the solution for about ten
minutes. Note: It is important that the plastic handle of the portafilter does not contact the
solution or it will permanently mark it.
5. After cleaning thoroughly, rinse all parts well with fresh clean water.
6. Reassemble in reverse order and brew yourself a wonderful shot of espresso.
Cleaning the Housing: When the surfaces are cool, you may use a special stainless steel
cleaner or polish with a soft cloth. Never use anything abrasive or it will scratch. For
stubborn stains, try some Windex but the surface must be cool.
Chapter VII: Check List of Accessories and Essentials
1. The little plastic tampers that are usually are included with new espresso machines
are definitely not up to the job. Solid, high quality tampers come in many shapes, weights
and styles. The Espro tamper is a training device which delivers an exact 30 pound tamp.
The Brewtus requires a 58 mm tamper. Prevailing wisdom says spend a little more and
get the very best because you may be using it a thousand times a year or more.
2. A timer is essential for brewing the perfect 28 second shot. Polder makes a good one
for about $12.95.
3. A knock box is generally considered an essential item for the home barista. It sits next
to the machine and is the receptacle for spent pucks. It prevents messy drips and trips to
the sink.
4. Brushes are also essentials. A stiff round brush is used to clean the gasket around the
rim of the brew head and the burrs in your grinder. Flat brushes are useful for cleaning
spilled grounds from around your grinder.
5. Stainless steel pitchers are used for frothing milk and pouring latte art. Choose one
that is three times the volume of the milk you will use to allow for the expansion of the
foam. A 400ml/1.3 cup size is sufficient for two or three cappas.
6. A graduated beaker is very handy for measuring liquids in both metric and American
equivalents. These can be purchased through science and medical supply stores as well as
some of the larger hobby shops.
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7. A frothing thermometer is most handy for learning the technique of foaming milk.
You need to learn the 100 and 160 degree points and with practice, you will know by
touch when they are reached.
8. Espresso machine cleaners are also essential. Use Urnex® Cafiza or its equivalent
for best results. Do not use dish washing detergents as they may contain fragrances and
fillers and are not suited to the task.
9. Invest in a bundle of terry cloth bar mops. Making espresso drinks can be a bit
messy, especially in the beginning. Wives may soon become overly protective of their tea
towels.
10. Pocket scales are excellent devices for weighing doses and calibrating the grinder.
Food scales are not as accurate, are bulkier and can cost more.
11. A medium funnel with at least a 1-cup capacity is very convenient for filling the
reservoir and preventing water spills into the depths of the machine.
Chapter VIII: Trouble Shooting
1. The machine does not turn on: Make sure the power is turned on and the machine is
plugged in. Also, check ground fault interrupter which is the small button on the outlet
receptacle.
2. Coffee exits the portafilter too quickly: The grind should probably be finer or the
coffee may be old and dry. Also, measure the force of your tamp to be sure you are in the
30 pound range.
3. Coffee comes out too slowly: Too fine a grind and/or too hard a tamp. Also, make sure
reservoir is full and/or clean the brewgroup as described Chapter VI.
4. Coffee is not hot enough: Make sure the cup and all brewing components are preheated
as described in Chapter V.
5. Pump runs but does not produce a head of water: The pump may need priming. Call
Whole Latte Love for instructions.
6. Water is leaking around the portafilter: Make sure group gasket is clean by brushing
inside the groove with your round espresso brush. Depending on its age, the gasket may
be old and need replacing. Also, there may be too much coffee in the basket. Try again
with a shot adjustment.
NOTES:
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Chapter IX: Recipes
Espresso: Espresso is pressure-brewed coffee and should have a thick golden crema on
top and not taste bitter or sour.
1. A single shot consists of approximately 7 grams of ground coffee and 1 to 1.5 ounces
of liquid in the cup.
2. A double shot is 14 grams of ground coffee and 2 to 2.5 ounces of liquid in the cup.
Café Latte: A latte is made with 2/3rds steamed milk and 1/3 espresso.
1. Steam and froth a small pitcher of milk.
2. Fill your cup with 2/3rds steamed milk.
3. Brew your espresso and pour it down the side of your cup.
Cappuccino: A Cappuccino is traditionally served in a 7 oz. cup. The drink is comprised
of equal amounts of espresso, steamed milk and frothed milk.
1. Steam and froth a pitcher of milk.
2. Brew a double espresso into your cup.
3. Add steamed milk by holding back the froth with a spoon.
4. Spoon the froth on top.
Ristretto: Also known as the “little one”, is the strongest espresso of the family. The
Ristretto uses the same amount of ground coffee as a regular espresso but uses less water.
The name is derived from the “restricted use of water”.
1. Prepare to brew an espresso using your normal amount of coffee.
2. Stop the extraction just short of a regular shot.
Café Mocha: By adding some chocolate to milk to an espresso you’ve got a Mocha.
1. Steam a small pitcher of milk.
2. Add a squirt of chocolate syrup to the milk and mix well.
3. Brew your espresso and pour it into a larger mug or glass.
4. Add the chocolate milk.
5. Top it off with some whipped cream and/or some chocolate shavings.
Café Crema: A Café Crema is a long espresso. Instead of stopping the shot at the normal
time for a single or double shot, let the pump run longer until you have a full cup of
coffee.
Café Americano: Brew a proper single or double espresso and then add hot water from
the wand to fill the cup.
Espresso Macciato: This is just an espresso with a wee bit of froth on top.
Latte Macciato: Just brew a standard Latte and add a little foam on top.
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Try this amazing dessert—You have certainly earned it!
Affogato Mocha: Affogato is a typically Italian way to enjoy ice cream. It is literally
“drowned” in espresso or another liquid topping. For four servings:
1-pint chocolate ice cream. (Try Godiva’s)
8 tablespoons finely chopped bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate
8 tablespoons hot freshly brewed espresso coffee. A dark roast works really well.
8 tablespoons dark rum
Divide ice cream among 4 dessert bowls, cappuccino or latte cups. Spoon 2 tablespoons
each of chocolate, espresso, and rum over the ice cream and serve immediately.
(May 2005/ Bon Appetit)
NOTES:
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Chapter X: Shipping the Brewtus
For whatever reason, whether you are moving, taking your machine with you for a long
summer vacation or sending it in for service, it may someday be necessary to box it up
for shipment. You will need to empty the boilers first.
The following set of instructions is specific to the Brewtus and the directions are different
from HX machines or single boiler units.
Draining the Boilers:
1. Read and comprehend these instructions entirely before attempting to drain your
boiler. Pose any questions to the WLL Tech Department before continuing.
2. Caution! Machine must be heated to steam temperature/pressure to properly drain the
boiler. Note: Machine and water will be at scalding temperatures!
3. Plug the machine in and allow it to come to normal brewing temperature/pressure.
4. Find (2) large tall-sided containers and place one under the brewgroup and one under
the hot water dispenser. Make sure that both containers are solidly in place and will
not spill or fall when water begins to drain into them!
5. Remove the cover of your water reservoir, that is, the cup warming tray.
6. Remove the water intake line from the water reservoir.
7. Engage the pump by moving the brew lever to the up or brew position.
8. Beware of splashing hot water! It will burn!
9. Run the pump/machine until water stops flowing from the brew head.
10. Disengage the pump by moving the lever to the full down position.
11. Turn off the main power switch.
12. Open the hot water dispensing valve.
13. Run the machine until water stops flowing from the hot water dispensing valve.
14. Beware of splashing hot water!! It will burn!!
15. Close the hot water dispensing valve.
Your machine’s boiler is now drained.
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Cautions
• There are no user serviceable parts inside the
machine. Defer service to a qualified technician.
• Do not try to put anything inside the machine
through the vents.
• Please check the water level in the reservoir
frequently.
• Do not let children touch or operate the machine, as
it is very dangerous to do so and could cause injuries.
• Do not use the machine with wet hands.
• To disconnect the machine from the power supply,
pull the plug itself—do not pull on the power cord.
• Please consult with a qualified technician for any
problems or questions.
The manufacturer reserves the right to make any changes
to the machine for improved performance without prior
notice.
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Appendix A: To zoom in/out on the following diagrams, hold down the CTRL key
and use the scroll wheel on your mouse.
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