S408 REPAIR MANUAL
1
S408 REPAIR MANUAL
2
These instructions are intended to help restore any ailing S408 Passive
Loudspeaker back to factory working conditions. They show how to remove and
replace the drivers.
Please contact Mackie Technical Support (1-800-898-3211) to receive a Service
Request Number and Order Number for parts needed for this restoration. They will
also help you determine the nature of the problem and what parts will repair the unit.
Tools needed:
***NOTE: not all tools listed below will be needed for your repair***
• Phillips head screwdriver.
• 3mm allen wrench.
• 8mm combination wrench.
• Solid workbench.
Parts needed:
***NOTE: not all parts listed below will be needed for your repair***
• 8” Woofer (Top Left)
Part #0011806
pages 3-4
• 8” Woofer (Top Right)
Part #0011806
pages 5-6
• 8” Woofer (Bottom Left)
Part #0011806
pages 7-8
• 8” Woofer (Bottom Right)
Part #0011806
pages 9-10
• High Frequency Driver
Part #0008093
pages 11-13
• Diaphragm
Part #coming soon
pages 14-15
• Input Assembly
Part #0012048
pages 16-18
Safety Warnings:
• Make sure that you disconnect all cords before you begin these procedures.
• Always use safety glasses!
• Please try NOT to touch any of the pcb circuitry, capacitors, resistors, etc.
• Take care to read and follow these instructions. It may help to read the
instructions prior to the repair to get an idea of what it entails.
3
Top left woofer replacement:
1
8
7
1
2
3
7
8
2
3
9
4
10
5
11
6
12
1
Six screws need to be removed from
each side of the front of the grill (twelve
screws total) using the phillips head
screwdriver. This grill has a tendency to
want to “pop” off, so please be sure to
hold it in place with one hand or arm
while removing the screws with your
free hand. In addition to the grill, the
screws also hold the decorative trim. The
trim should be removed, too. Keep the
twelve screws in a safe place.
6
2
5
4
Eight screws need to be removed
from the woofer using the phillips head
screwdriver. Once the screws are
removed, the woofer may be loosened
by prying a flat head screwdriver in
between the cabinet and the woofer;
a good place to start is in the notches
located just above the horn assembly
and below the woofer (as pointed out
by the arrows in the picture above).
Also note the “tinsel dressing teardrops”
(circled above) which are facing down.
The woofer should be placed back the
same way. It is for visual consistency.
More importantly, the cables from the
printed circuit board to the woofer
terminals are quite short; it probably
would not work otherwise. The eight
screws should be kept in a safe place.
4
Top left woofer replacement continued:
3
Carefully begin to remove the woofer.
Caution: The woofer is approximately
8 pounds with the weight unevenly
distributed.
+
-
5
push down
4
The positive (blue and black) and
negative (solid black) cables are still
attached to the woofer terminals.
Remove the cables from their terminals
simply by pushing down on the terminal
and pulling out the cable.
*
The picture above shows what the S408
looks like with the grill and top left woofer
removed. Place the new woofer (part
#0011806) where the old one was. Follow
the same steps as above, but backwards
4 to 1. Power up the S408 and the
new woofer should now be pumping
out glorious lows. Awesome, you just
replaced an 8” woofer!
If you find it too difficult to connect the
cables to the woofer terminals due to
the short length of the cables, there
is an easier (albeit lengthier) way to
connect them. Instead of reconnecting
the cables to their terminals, just attach
the woofer to the cabinet as normal.
Follow steps 1-5 on how to remove the
horn assembly (pages 11-12) as this is
an easier way to access the woofer
terminals without having to work under
such tight circumstances!
5
Top right woofer replacement:
8
7
1
1
2
7
8
2
3
6
5
3
9
4
10
5
11
6
12
1
Six screws need to be removed from
each side of the front of the grill (twelve
screws total) using the phillips head
screwdriver. This grill has a tendency to
want to “pop” off, so please be sure to
hold it in place with one hand or arm
while removing the screws with your
free hand. In addition to the grill, the
screws also hold the decorative trim. The
trim should be removed, too. Keep the
twelve screws in a safe place.
2
4
Eight screws need to be removed
from the woofer using the phillips head
screwdriver. Once the screws are
removed, the woofer may be loosened
by prying a flat head screwdriver in
between the cabinet and the woofer;
a good place to start is in the notches
located just above the horn assembly
and below the woofer (as pointed out
by the arrows in the picture above).
Also note the “tinsel dressing teardrops”
(circled above) which are facing down.
The woofer should be placed back the
same way. It is for visual consistency.
More importantly, the cables from the
printed circuit board to the woofer
terminals are quite short; it probably
would not work otherwise. The eight
screws should be kept in a safe place.
6
Top right woofer replacement continued:
3
Carefully begin to remove the woofer.
Caution: The woofer is approximately
8 pounds with the weight unevenly
distributed.
5
-
+
push down
4
The positive (blue and black) and
negative (solid black) cables are still
attached to the woofer terminals.
Remove the cables from their terminals
simply by pushing down on the terminal
and pulling out the cable.
*
The picture above shows what the S408
looks like with the grill and top right
woofer removed. Place the new woofer
(part #0011806) where the old one was.
Follow the same steps as above, but
backwards 4 to 1. Power up the S408
and the new woofer should now be
pumping out glorious lows. Awesome,
you just replaced an 8” woofer!
If you find it too difficult to connect the
cables to the woofer terminals due to
the short length of the cables, there
is an easier (albeit lengthier) way to
connect them. Instead of reconnecting
the cables to their terminals, just attach
the woofer to the cabinet as normal.
Follow steps 1-5 on how to remove the
horn assembly (pages 11-12) as this is
an easier way to access the woofer
terminals without having to work under
such tight circumstances!
7
Bottom left woofer replacement:
1
7
2
8
3
9
4
10
5
8
11
1
2
7
6
12
3
6
5
1
Six screws need to be removed from
each side of the front of the grill (twelve
screws total) using the phillips head
screwdriver. This grill has a tendency to
want to “pop” off, so please be sure to
hold it in place with one hand or arm
while removing the screws with your
free hand. In addition to the grill, the
screws also hold the decorative trim. The
trim should be removed, too. Keep the
twelve screws in a safe place.
2
4
Eight screws need to be removed
from the woofer using the phillips head
screwdriver. Once the screws are
removed, the woofer may be loosened
by prying a flat head screwdriver in
between the cabinet and the woofer;
a good place to start is in the notches
located just below the horn assembly
and above the woofer (as pointed out
by the arrows in the picture above).
Also note the “tinsel dressing teardrops”
(circled above) which are facing
upwards. The woofer should be placed
back the same way. It is for visual
consistency. More importantly, the
cables from the printed circuit board to
the woofer terminals are quite short; it
probably would not work otherwise. The
eight screws should be kept in a safe
place.
8
Bottom left woofer replacement continued:
3
Carefully begin to remove the woofer.
Caution: The woofer is approximately
8 pounds with the weight unevenly
distributed.
push down
5
4
+
The positive (blue and black) and
negative (solid black) cables are still
attached to the woofer terminals.
Remove the cables from their terminals
simply by pushing down on the terminal
and pulling out the cable.
*
The picture above shows what the S408
looks like with the grill and bottom left
woofer removed. Place the new woofer
(part #0011806) where the old one was.
Follow the same steps as above, but
backwards 4 to 1. Power up the S408
and the new woofer should now be
pumping out glorious lows. Awesome,
you just replaced an 8” woofer!
If you find it too difficult to connect the
cables to the woofer terminals due to
the short length of the cables, there
is an easier (albeit lengthier) way to
connect them. Instead of reconnecting
the cables to their terminals, just attach
the woofer to the cabinet as normal.
Follow steps 1-5 on how to remove the
horn assembly (pages 11-12) as this is
an easier way to access the woofer
terminals without having to work under
such tight circumstances!
9
Bottom right woofer replacement:
1
7
2
8
3
9
4
10
1
5
8
11
2
3
7
6
12
1
Six screws need to be removed from
each side of the front of the grill (twelve
screws total) using the phillips head
screwdriver. This grill has a tendency to
want to “pop” off, so please be sure to
hold it in place with one hand or arm
while removing the screws with your
free hand. In addition to the grill, the
screws also hold the decorative trim. The
trim should be removed, too. Keep the
twelve screws in a safe place.
6
2
4
5
Eight screws need to be removed
from the woofer using the phillips head
screwdriver. Once the screws are
removed, the woofer may be loosened
by prying a flat head screwdriver in
between the cabinet and the woofer;
a good place to start is in the notches
located just below the horn assembly
and above the woofer (as pointed out
by the arrows in the picture above).
Also note the “tinsel dressing teardrops”
(circled above) which are facing
upwards. The woofer should be placed
back the same way. It is for visual
consistency. More importantly, the
cables from the printed circuit board to
the woofer terminals are quite short; it
probably would not work otherwise. The
eight screws should be kept in a safe
place.
10
Bottom right woofer replacement continued:
3
Carefully begin to remove the woofer.
Caution: The woofer is approximately
8 pounds with the weight unevenly
distributed.
push down
5
+
4
The positive (blue and black) and
negative (solid black) cables are still
attached to the woofer terminals.
Remove the cables from their terminals
simply by pushing down on the terminal
and pulling out the cable.
*
The picture above shows what the S408
looks like with the grill and bottom right
woofer removed. Place the new woofer
(part #0011806) where the old one was.
Follow the same steps as above, but
backwards 4 to 1. Power up the S408
and the new woofer should now be
pumping out glorious lows. Awesome,
you just replaced an 8” woofer!
If you find it too difficult to connect the
cables to the woofer terminals due to
the short length of the cables, there
is an easier (albeit lengthier) way to
connect them. Instead of reconnecting
the cables to their terminals, just attach
the woofer to the cabinet as normal.
Follow steps 1-5 on how to remove the
horn assembly (pages 11-12) as this is
an easier way to access the woofer
terminals without having to work under
such tight circumstances!
11
High Frequency Driver replacement:
1
7
2
8
1
2
3
4
3
9
12
5
4
10
11
6
10
5
11
6
12
1
Six screws need to be removed from
each side of the front of the grill (twelve
screws total) using the phillips head
screwdriver. This grill has a tendency to
want to “pop” off, so please be sure to
hold it in place with one hand or arm
while removing the screws with your
free hand. In addition to the grill, the
screws also hold the decorative trim. The
trim should be removed, too. Keep the
twelve screws in a safe place.
9
2
8
7
Twelve screws and flat washers need
to be removed from the horn assembly
using the phillips head screwdriver.
Once the screws are removed, the horn
assembly may be loosened by prying
a flat head screwdriver in between the
cabinet and the horn assembly; there
are a myriad of places to wedge the
screwdriver (as pointed out by the arrows
in the picture above). The twelve screws
should be kept in a safe place.
12
High Frequency Driver replacement continued:
3
Carefully begin to remove the entire
horn assembly (with the high frequency
driver still attached).
Caution: The horn weighs about 8
pounds, and the weight is unevenly
distributed.
-
5
Push down
+
4
The positive (red and black) and
negative (solid black) cables are still
attached to the high frequency driver
terminals. Remove the cables from their
terminals simply by pushing down on the
terminal and pulling out the cable.
This is what it looks like with the grill
and horn assembly removed. See the
next page for further instructions and
additional pictures on how to remove
and replace the high frequency driver.
13
High Frequency Driver replacement continued:
locking washer
bolt
flat washer
6
7
Four bolts and eight washers may be
removed from the driver using the 8mm
combination wrench. Turn counterclockwise to loosen and remove,
clockwise to tighten. The other three
are located around the horn assembly.
Notice that the flat washer is on the
bottom, followed by the locking washer,
and finally the bolt.
Keep the four bolts, four locking washers,
and four flat washers in a safe place.
8
The horn assembly should easily lift right
off of the high frequency driver. Place
the new high frequency driver (part
#0008093) where the old one was. Follow
the same steps as above, but backwards
8 to 1. Power up the S408 and the new
driver should now be pumping out those
highs again. Fantastic, you just replaced
a high frequency driver!
14
Diaphragm replacement:
1
At the present time (January 2007),
diaphragms are not currently available,
so you will have to replace the complete
driver following the previous section
(pages 11-13). If you have received
a diaphragm, please follow the steps
below.
2
Follow steps 1-5 of the high frequency
driver replacement instructions, as the
horn will need to be removed in order to
access the diaphragm.
1
4
2
3
3
The horn assembly is shown above with
the high frequency driver circled. Four
screws need to be removed from the
driver using the 3mm allen wrench.
4
Keep the four screws in a safe place.
5
The diaphragm and plate adapter are
easily removed from the horn assembly.
Notice the terminal locations in relation
to the indents of the high frequency
driver (circled above).
15
Diaphragm replacement continued:
7
6
This is what the plate adapter and
diaphragm look like after they have
been removed from the horn assembly.
The diaphragm is separated from the
plate adapter simply by pushing down
on the terminals.
This is what the plate adapter (left) and
diaphragm (right) both look like. Place
the new diaphragm (part # coming
soon) where the old one was. Follow the
same steps as above, but backwards
6 to 1. Power up the S408 and the new
diaphragm should now be pumping
out those highs again. Sweet, you just
replaced a diaphragm!
16
Input assembly replacement:
1
2
8
3
7
4
6
5
1
2
8
3
7
4
6
1
5
Eight screws need to be removed from
the input assembly (located on the
rear of the cabinet) using the phillips
head screwdriver. Once the screws
are removed, the input assembly may
be loosened by prying a flat head
screwdriver in between it and the
cabinet. Keep the eight screws in a safe
place.
17
Input assembly replacement continued:
J3
+
1
2
Thru
J4
Input
Pull out
J3
J4
+
-
Thru
2
Once loosened, the input assembly may
be easily removed from the cabinet. Do
not completely take the input assembly
off yet, as two cables need to be
removed first.
J4
Pull out
J3
-
+
Input
Thru
1 2
3
2
1
Input
Two cables need to be removed from
the input assembly PCB (as shown
on the left and above): (1) the solid
black cable attaches to the negative
terminal (connection J4). This is for
the input jack, and (2) the grey and
black cable attaches to the positive
terminal (connection J3). This is for the
thru jack. Do not force cable removal
or connection, although needle-nose
pliers may aid in loosening the crimped
cables.
18
Input assembly replacement continued:
4
Place the new input assembly (part
#0012048) where the old one was. Follow
the same steps as above, but backwards
3 to 1. Remove the serial number from
the faulty input assembly (as shown
in the picture above) and place on
the new input assembly. Power up the
S408 and relish in the fact that you just
replaced an input assembly. Hats off to
you for a job well done!
19
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