Bernina 1200DA User manual

Bernina 1200DA User manual
MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
1200DA/1300DC
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 6/01/02
1200DA/1300DC/1
MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
Table of Contents
SECTION A
Pages 3-17
Let’s Start With The Basics
SECTION B
Pages 18-37
4-Thread Techniques
SECTION C
Pages 38-59
3-Thread Techniques
SECTION D
Pages 60-74
Let’s Experiment
SECTION E
Pages 75-89
Cover and Chain
(1300DC Only)
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MASTERING YOUR
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1200DA/1300DC
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section A
Let’s Start With The Basics
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SECTION A
Let’s Start With The Basics
Machine Set-Up
•
•
•
•
•
•
Identifying the serger parts – Owner’s manual pg__
Attaching the Foot Control and Power Cord – Owner's manual pg.____
Assembling Thread Stand – Owner's manual pg.___
Power Switch – Owner's manual pg.___
Loopers – what are they? – Owner's manual pg.___
The Looper Cover – Owner's manual pg.___
- Safety feature – machine won’t sew when the cover is open
Threads
Owner's manual pg.___
• Types to use
• The importance of quality threads
Needles
Owner's manual pg.___
• Always start with a new needle
• Match the needle to the fabric and thread – Owner's manual pg.___
• Change the needle often; using the needle inserter
• Loosening/re-tightening needle screws
Threading for Overlock Serging
Owner's manual pg.___
• Cone Holders and Spool Caps
- Holders used for large cones of serger thread
- Turn the cone upside down for the larger based cone threads
- Caps used for “normal” sewing thread and decorative thread spools
• Raise the presser foot when threading
• The threading path – Owner's manual pg.___
• Use the road map inside the looper cover as a quick reference guide.
• Threading the first thread guide on all threads – Owner's manual pg.___. Lock thread into guide.
• Threading Order
- First – Upper Looper (Blue)
- Second – Lower Looper (Red)
- Third – Right Needle (Green)
- Fourth – Left Needle (Yellow)
• Upper Looper – Owner's manual pg.___
• Lower Looper – Owner's manual pg.___
• Right Needle -– Owner's manual pg.___
• Left Needle – Owner's manual pg.___
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Test Serging
Owner's manual pg.___
• Lift the front of the presser foot to place the fabric under it before beginning to serge.
• Lift the entire presser foot by the handle at the back when accurate fabric placement is needed.
• Chain off the fabric
Cleaning and Oiling
Owner's manual pg.___
• Clip all threads at the thread guide support.
• Lift the presser foot to release (open) the thread tension disks.
• Gently pull threads from serger. Always remove threads in the direction of sewing. If you encounter any
resistance, stop and rotate the handwheel slightly to release the threads from the loopers.
• Open the looper cover; rotate the upper knife up.
• Using a vacuum cleaner adapter or a 1” cosmetic brush, remove all lint and fluff from the looper, knife
and feed dog areas of the machine.
• Following the oiling guide inside the looper cover, place a drop of oil on each of the two oiling points.
• Remove old needles and replace them with new.
• Rotate upper knife down into cutting position.
Replacing the Knives
Owner's manual pg.___
• Serger knives cut fabric as it is serged; as with scissors, repeated use can dull them. If knives begin to
“chew” instead of cut, consider replacing the lower knife.
• If you serge over pins, repalce both knives.
• An authorized BERNINA® technician will need to replace a dull upper knife.
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TENSION THEORY
Balanced 4-Thread Stitch
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
(yellow, red, green, blue)
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock)
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading
paths on the serger.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen.
• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
• To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser foot with your right thumb and slide the fabric under the
presser foot. Release the tip of the presser foot and begin serging.
• Serge to the end of the fabric.
• Continue stitching off the fabric until you have a 3”- 4” thread chain.
• Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced stitch graphic on page__ of the
Owner's manual.
• Read the information under Adjusting the Thread Tension on page__ of the Owner's manual for
information about the stitch formation and correcting any stitch irregularities.
• Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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ADJUSTING TENSIONS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
6 pieces of firm fabric, 6” x 6” each
1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3” x 4”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
(yellow, red, green, blue)
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock)
Lower Looper - Increased Tension
Owner's Manual pg.____
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch using
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen.
• Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” x 4” and set aside.
• Locate the thread tension dials on the front of the serger. From
left to right, these dials adjust tension for the Left Needle, Right
Needle, Upper Looper, and the Lower Looper.
• Adjust the lower looper thread tension dial to 7 to increase the
tension on the looper thread.
• Place the first piece of folded fabric under the presser foot with the
fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The upper looper thread is pulled tightly to the back of the
stitch. The left needle thread may be pulled to the back of the stitch.
• Trim, label, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Lower Looper - Decreased Tension
• Change the lower looper thread tension dial to 2 to decrease the
tension on the looper thread.
• Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The lower looper thread is visible on the face of the fabric.
The looper threads are very loose.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
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Upper Looper - Increased Tension
• Adjust the upper looper thread tension dial to 7 to increase the tension on the looper thread.
• Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The lower looper
thread is pulled tightly to the front of the stitch.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Upper Looper - Decreased Tension
• Change the upper looper thread tension dial to 2 to decrease the tension on the looper thread.
• Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The upper looper
thread is visible on the back of the fabric. The looper threads are very loose.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
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Right Needle
• Adjust the right needle thread tension dial to decrease
(down) the tension on the needle thread.
• Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large
loops on the back of the fabric.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Left Needle
• Adjust the left needle thread tension dial to 2 to decrease
the tension on the needle thread.
• Serge the sixth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large
loops on the back of the fabric.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Both Needles
• Adjust both the left and right needle thread tension dials to 7
to increase the tension on the needle threads.
• Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” x 4”.
• Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The stitch is puckering the fabric.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return both needle thread tension settings to normal.
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STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along the folded edge.
Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.
Serge to the first mark along the folded edge, trimming the fold slightly.
Adjust the stitch length to 3mm and serge to the second mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 2mm and serge to the third mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 1mm and serge to the end.
Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return the thread tension settings to normal.
4mm
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2mm
1mm
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CUTTING WIDTH ADJUSTMENT
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
(yellow, red, green, blue)
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Fold the fabric in half to be 3” x 6”.
Divide and mark the fabric into three equal sections along the folded edge.
Adjust the stitch length dial to 2.5 (normal).
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Rotate the upper knife up.
Adjust cutting width to 4.
Rotate the upper knife down into cutting position.
Serge to the first mark on the fabric, stopping when the knife edge is on the mark.
Adjust cutting width to 3mm and serge to the second mark.
Adjust the cutting width to 2mm and serge to the end of the fabric.
Mark the cutting width settings on the sample.
Rotate the upper knife up.
Adjust cutting width to 3mm (normal).
Rotate the upper knife down into cutting position.
Compare the cutting width sample to the balanced 4-thread sample to see how cutting width
affects the balance of the overlock stitch.
• Trim and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
4mm
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2mm
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N
2.0
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Fabrics That Stretch
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
3 pieces of ribbing,
5” (width) x 2” each (length)
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Set the stitch length to 2.5mm.
With differential set at N, serge two of the ribbing pieces together along one 5” edge.
If the fabric is stretchy enough the edge will be wavy.
Adjust the differential to 2.0.
Stitching along the 5” side, serge the remaining ribbing to the other side of the piece,
trimming slightly. With differential at a higher setting, the the wavy edge should be eliminated.
Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
Compare the seams to see how the differential settings can affect stretching.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return the differential feed setting to N (normal).
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DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Fabrics That Pucker
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Batiste, 3” x 6”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm.
With differential set at N, serge on one 6” edge. If fabric is lightweight enough the edge will
pucker.
Adjust the differential to 0.7.
Serge along the other edge, trimming slightly. With a low differential setting, the puckered
edge should be eliminated.
Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return the thread tension settings to normal.
N
0.7
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SL 4mm
Diff. Feed 2
Diff. Feed 2
Increased needle tensions
SL 4mm
Diff. Feed 2
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Gathering and Easing
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 12”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Using a fabric marker divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along one 12” side.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Turn the differential feed dial to 2.
Serge to the first mark.
Adjust stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark.
Move the thread tension dials up to 8 to increase the needle thread tensions.
Serge to the end of the fabric.
Return the differential feed to “N” (normal).
Return the stitch length to 2.5 (normal).
Move the thread tension dials to return tensions to normal.
Mark the sample: Differential Feed 2; Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4; Differential Feed 2
& stitch length 4 & increased needle tension.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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SECURING SERGED SEAMS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton, 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Note: If you are using a Wavy Rotary Cutter or Pinking Shears to trim the samples, do all trimming
before beginning to sew this sample.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2” x “6” and place the fabric under the presser foot.
• Take 2-3 stitches on the fabric. Lower the needles into the fabric.
• Raise the presser foot and with your left hand gently pull the thread chain around the needles to
the knife.
• Lower the presser foot and continue serging (cutting off the excess thread chain) until you are one (1)
stitch off the end of the fabric.
• Locate the rolled hem dial on the right side of the cloth plate; pull it towards you, releasing the thread
chain from the stitch finger.
• Raise the presser foot and carefully flip the fabric over so that the lower looper side of the previously
serged seam will be overstitched.
• Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the first stitch will enter the fabric when you begin stitching.
• Slide the rolled hem dial towards the body of the serger.
• Serge for about 1”, overstitching the previous stitching. Guide the fabric so as not to cut the previous
stitching.
• Raise the toe of the presser foot and rotate the fabric 90° clockwise.
• Serge off the edge of the fabric.
• If the upper knife is up, rotate it down into the cutting position.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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SERGING A TUBULAR PROJECT
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Firm cotton, 3” x 12”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
•
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
With right sides together, seam the fabric into a tube along the 3” side.
Press the seam to one side. (The upper looper thread is the right side of the seam.)
On one 12” side of the tube, cut away a 2” x ¼” section of fabric.
Lower the presser foot and serge around the tube, cutting off ¼”. Stop serging when the knife
enters the cutout; rotate the knife up.
• Continue serging to complete the circle, overlapping the previous stitching by 1”.
• Raise the presser foot and rotate the fabric clockwise.
• Lower the presser foot and serge off the edge of the fabric.
• Return the knife to the normal cutting position.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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WISH LIST
Let’s Start With The Basics
‰ Feet-ures, Unit M
‰ Serger Technique Reference Book
‰ Carrying Case
‰ Serger Cone Thread
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ Needles
‰ size____ and type___
‰ size____ and type____
‰ size____ and type____
‰ size____ and type____
‰ Seam Sealant
‰ Fabric Marking Pen
‰ Rotary Cutter
‰ Wavy Cutting blade
‰ BERNINAÒ 14” ruler
‰ BERNINAÒ Cutting Mat
‰ Fabric Glue Stick
‰ Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles
‰ Vacuum Cleaner Attachment
‰ 1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster
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MASTERING YOUR
®
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1200DA/1300DC
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section B
4-Thread Techniques
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SECTION B
4-Thread Techniques
General Construction Seaming
• Use a 4-thread Overlock stitch for most fabrics
- The right needle stitching helps to prevent fabric rolling within the stitch and keeps the seam flat.
• Secure seam ends if you will not be stitching across them again.
• Adjust presser foot pressure for very thick or thin fabrics – Owner’s manual pg.____
Serging Knits
•
•
•
•
Use Ballpoint or Stretch needles to prevent damage to the fabric.
Woolly Nylon in the loopers adds to the stretch of the serger stitch.
Adjust stitch length to 3mm for most seam applications.
To prevent fabric stretching during sewing
- Differential feed – Owner's manual pg.____
- Presser foot pressure – Owner's manual pg.____
- Built-in Tape Guide – Owner's manual pg.____
Serging Wovens
•
•
•
•
•
Use Universal, Sharp or Microtex Needles.
Match the serger cone thread to the fabric’s fiber content and color.
Adjust stitch length to 2.5mm for medium to heavy fabrics.
Adjust stitch length to 2mm for lightweight fabrics.
Whenever possible work with opposing seams (one seam allowance pressed to the left and one
seam allowance pressed to the right) as you join the seamed pieces together.
Optional Presser Feet
• The Elasticator Foot – Owner's leaflet for the Elasticator
- For attaching elastic from 5mm -12mm (¼” to ½”) wide.
- Adjust Presser Foot Pressure to “H” – Owner's manual pg.____
- Adjust Stitch Length to 4mm.
• Gathering Attachment – Owner's leaflet for the Gathering Attachment
- What affects gathering?
- Type and weight of fabric
- Differential Feed – Owner's manual pg.____
- Stitch Length
- Needle Tension – Owner's manual pg.____
- Gathering to a piece of fabric
• Use the Gathering Attachment with other serger presser feet.
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4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight, 5” x 6”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Locate the seam guide markings on the knife guard. Distances are measured from the right needle.
When using the left needle, distance is increased by 1/8”.
Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
Align the fold of the fabric with the ½” mark on the knife guard (the left needle is being used). Serge
the seam, cutting off exactly 3/8”.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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SEAMING KNIT FABRICS
Presser Foot Pressure
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,
3” x 6” (stretch across the 3” side)
11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
2 cones of serger thread (needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (loopers)
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.
With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on the fabric.
Without removing the fabric from under the presser foot, notice the “ripple” effect where
the fabric has stretched.
Locate the presser foot pressure adjusting dial on the top of the serger.
Reduce the presser foot pressure to “L” for low.
Seam to the end of the fabric.
Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and observe the decreased “rippling”.
Return the presser foot pressure adjusting dial to “M”.
Trim and mount the sample.
N
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1.5
N
SEAMING KNIT FABRICS
Differential Feed
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,
3” x 6” (stretch across the 3” side)
11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
2 cones of serger thread (needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (loopers)
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.
With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on the fabric.
Without removing the fabric from under the presser foot, notice the “ripple” effect where
the fabric has stretched.
Locate the differential feed dial on the serger.
Adjust the dial to 1.5.
Seam to the end of the fabric.
Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and observe the decreased “rippling”.
Return the differential feed dial to “N” for normal.
Trim and mount the sample.
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SEAMING KNIT FABRICS
Presser Foot Tape Guide
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,
2” x 6” (stretch across the 2” side)
8” of ¼” twill tape or ribbon
11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
2 cones of serger thread (needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (loopers)
Standard Foot with Tape Guide
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Locate the tape guide on the presser foot.
Using the small screwdriver from the accessory pouch,
loosen the fixing screw and slide the tape guide all the
way to the left. Snug the screw.
Slip the twill tape or ribbon into the slot on the presser foot.
Lower the presser foot and lower the needles into the tape
or ribbon.
Loosen the fixing screw and adjust the tape guide to the
width of the tape or ribbon. Tighten the screw.
Seam the jersey together along the 6” side, catching the
tape or ribbon.
Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and
examine the seam. It will not stretch. The tape or ribbon
has stabilized the seam.
Trim and mount the sample.
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ATTACHING RIBBING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Sweatshirt fleece, 4” x 6”
Ribbing, 6” (width) x 2½” (length)
11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
2 cones of serger thread (needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (loopers)
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch using Woolly Nylon in both loopers.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Cut a mock neckline on the corner of the fleece (quarter circle).
Fold the ribbing in half (wrong sides together) to 1¾” x 6”.
Matching raw edges, place the ribbing to the neckline on the right side of the fleece.
Serge the ribbing to the fleece, stretching the ribbing to meet the fleece neckline.
Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
SERGER PIECING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
3 strips of medium weight cotton fabric cut 1¾” x 4”
3 strips of contrasting medium weight cotton cut 1¾” x 4”
80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
There will be two (2) strip sets sewn, each with three (3) strips of fabric. Strip set 1 is light,
dark, and light; strip set 2 is dark, light, and dark. With right sides together, serge the
fabric strips together into strip sets without trimming any fabric.
Press the seam allowances toward the dark fabric strips.
Using a rotary cutter, mat and ruler, cut the strip sets into 1¾” block sets.
Use 1 block set from the light/dark/light strip set and 2 block sets from the dark/light/dark
strip set. Discard the excess fabric.
Serge 1 dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip. The seam allowances will be
opposing (flipped to “nest” into each other).
Serge the remaining dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip.
Press the seam allowances to the dark/light/dark strips.
Trim thread tails and mount the sample on the following page.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
SERGER PIECING
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
REVERSIBLE QUILTING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Cut the following from cotton fabrics, muslin, and batting:
3 pieces 2” x 4”; 1 piece 2” x 5 ½”
80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Optional: Increase the presser foot pressure for thick fabrics.
Create a quilt sandwich, layering the 4” fabrics as follows: 2 muslin (right sides together), one
layer of batting, 2 layers of printed fabric (right sides together) and a layer of batting on top.
Raise the presser foot and position the fabrics under it with the right edges of the fabric and
batting even with the left edge of the knife.
Serge the 6 layers together, stopping as necessary to keep the right edges of the fabrics even.
Open the layers (1 muslin, 1 quilt top, 1 batting) to the right and left of the serged seam and press.
To serge the third section into place, layer the remaining 4” fabrics as follows: muslin to muslin,
right sides together; print to print, right sides together; batting on top.
Serge through all 6 layers.
Open the last 3 layers to the right side; press.
Add the last section to the top edge of the 3 paneled quilt. Layer the 5½” fabrics as follows:
muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print, right sides together; batting on top.
Serge, open the layers to the top of the square, and press.
Trim and mount the sample on the following page.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
REVERSIBLE QUILTING
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
ELASTICATOR FOOT
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 12”
12” of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic
11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint
2 cones of serger thread (needles)
2 cones of Woolly Nylon (loopers)
Elasticator (optional accessory)
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Adjust stitch length to 4mm.
Turn the presser foot pressure knob clockwise to increase the pressure.
Remove the presser foot – Owner's manual page___.
Following the directions in the Owner's manual for Elasticator, attach the presser foot.
Locate and raise the roller guide in the front of the presser foot.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.)
Raise the presser foot and insert the elastic through the slot and under the presser foot until it touches
the needles.
Lower the presser foot and serge a few stitches to catch and straighten the elastic along the right edge
of the slot. Turn the handwheel to lower the needles.
Lower the roller guide.
Using the small screwdriver, adjust the guide plate on the presser foot to the width of the elastic.
Locate the pressure adjustment set screw (on the top of the roller guide) and turn the screw
counterclockwise to completely loosen the pressure on the roller.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and begin serging.
Slowly tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to increase the pressure on the roller and stretch the
elastic. Note: Do not over- tighten the screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will prevent the fabric
from feeding smoothly.
Serge the elastic onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the elastic for you.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return all settings to normal.
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MASTERING
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
ELASTICATOR FOOT
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YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT
Gathering Fabric
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Attachments:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 15”
80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
Gathering Attachment (optional accessory)
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Raise the upper knife and adjust the cutting width to 3mm.
Locate and loosen the silver fixing screw in front of the rolled hem stitch selection dial.
Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the fixing
screw. Hint: Attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw and then rotate the attachment to
lock over the metal post. Tighten the fixing screw.
Set cutting width at 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into cutting position.
Locate and adjust the differential feed dial to 2.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along a 15” edge.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.)
Raise the presser foot and insert the fabric under the Gathering Attachment, up to the needles. The
fabric should be under the foot against the stitch plate.
Lower the presser foot and serge to the first mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark.
Increase the tension on both needles to 7.
Serge to the end of the fabric.
Mark the sample: with Differential Feed; with Differential Feed & SL4; with Differential Feed, SL4 &
tightened needle tensions.
Mount the sample on the following page.
Return all settings to normal.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT
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YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT
Gathering Fabric to Fabric
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Attachments:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 14”
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 8”
80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
Gathering Attachment (optional accessory)
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Raise the upper knife and adjust the cutting width to 3mm.
Locate and loosen the silver fixing screw in front of the rolled hem stitch selection dial.
Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the fixing
screw. Hint: Attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw and then rotate the attachment to
lock over the metal post. Tighten the fixing screw.
Return cutting width to 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into cutting position.
Locate and adjust the differential feed dial to 2.
Raise the presser foot and insert the 14” strip of fabric (right side up) under the Gathering Attachment.
The fabric is lying next to the stitch plate. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under the needles.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.)
Place the 8” strip of fabric (right side down) on top of the Gathering Attachment and under the presser
foot with the end of the 8” strip touching the needles.
Serge the two strips together; the lower strip will gather as you sew.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return all settings to normal.
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YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT
With the Elasticator Foot
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Attachments:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 18”
12” of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Elasticator
Gathering Attachment (optional accessory)
#1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Raise the upper knife and adjust the cutting width to 3mm.
Locate and loosen the silver fixing screw in front of the rolled hem stitch selection dial.
Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the fixing
screw. Hint: Attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw and then rotate the attachment to
lock over the metal post. Tighten the fixing screw.
Return cutting width to 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into cutting position.
Locate and adjust the differential feed dial to 2.
Attach the Elasticator Foot.
Raise the presser foot and insert the 18” strip of fabric under the Gathering Attachment. The
fabric should be under the foot against the stitch plate. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under
the needles.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.)
Turn the pressure adjustment screw counterclockwise to release all pressure on the roller guide.
Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of the presser foot.
Lower the presser foot and take a few stitches into the elastic.
Slowly tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to increase the pressure on the roller and stretch the
elastic. Note: Do not over-tighten the screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric.
Serge the elastic onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the elastic for you.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return all settings to normal.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
WISH LIST
4-Thread Techniques
‰ Feet-ures, Unit M
‰ Serger Technique Reference Book
‰ Woolly Nylon thread
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ Needles
‰ Ballpoint
size____
size____
‰ Stretch
size____
size____
‰ Microtex
size____
size____
‰ Sharp
size____
size____
‰ Universal
size____
size____
‰ Elasticator Foot
‰ Gathering Attachment
‰ ½” Nylon Elastic
‰ ½” Cotton Braid Elastic
‰ Twill Tape
‰ Narrow Ribbon
‰ BERNINAÒ Ironing System
‰ 6” Ruler/Gauge
‰ Rotary Cutter
‰ Rotary Cutter Guide Arm
‰ BERNINAÒ Cutting Mat
‰ BERNINAÒ 14” Ruler
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YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
1200DA/1300DC
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section C
3-Thread Techniques
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
SECTION C
3-Thread Techniques
Wide Overlock Stitch - Owner's manual pg._____
• Left Needle only
• Used for: Seaming stretchy knit fabrics, finishing woven edges, and serging outside corners.
Narrow Overlock Stitch - Owner's manual pg._____
•
•
•
•
•
Right needle only
Used for: Seaming fine fabrics, finishing woven edges, inside corners, turning tubes.
Rolled hem dial disengages the stitch finger.
Some minor adjustments may need to be made to the looper tensions.
Used for: Seaming batiste and other fine fabrics, finishing the edge of fine fabrics.
Flatlocking - Owner's manual pg._____
• Right or left needle
• Right seam guide (optional accessory) - adjust for fabric guiding.
Rolled Edge - Owner's manual pg._____
•
•
•
•
Right needle only
The upper looper thread is visible.
Woolly Nylon in the upper looper “fills in” like a sewing machine satin stitch.
The rolled hem dial disengages the stitch finger.
Optional Presser Feet
• Blindstitch Foot – Owner's leaflet for Blindstitch Foot
- Strong hem for children’s garments
- Home decor
- Hemming woven garments
- Heirloom Serging
Decorative Tucks
Seaming Lace to Lace
Seaming Lace to Fabric
• Cording Foot - Owner's leaflet for Cording Foot
- Wire for edging fabrics
- Gimp cord for gathering heavy fabrics
• Right Seam Guide
- Accurate seaming
Attach the right seam guide when working with standard patterns with 5/8” seam allowances
Adjust the guide from the left needle.
Use a 6” ruler/gauge to measure.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THREE THREAD OVERLOCK
(5mm-7mm - Left Needle) Seam
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight fabric, 5” x 6”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#3 (wide 3-thread overlock)
• Using the small screwdriver and brush/needle insertion tool, remove the right needle.
• Snug the needle set screw after removing the needle.
• Following the diagrams in the Owner’s manual, thread the serger for a wide 3-thread
overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
• Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
Fabric edge wrapped with strips of bias cut
tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging.
THREE THREAD OVERLOCK
(5mm-7mm - Left Needle) Seam Finish
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
2 pieces medium weight wool, 2½” x 5” each
2 strips of bias cut tricot, ¾” x 5” (optional)
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#3 (wide 3-thread overlock)
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Set the serger for a wide 3-thread blanced overlock stitch (left needle).
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Serge one 5” raw edge on each piece of fabric. Optional: For added support, wrap the fabric
edge with strips of bias cut tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging.
• Using your BERNINA® sewing machine and a standard 5/8” seam allowance, seam the two pieces
of fabric together along the serged edges.
• Press the seam open.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
OUTSIDE CORNERS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
2 pieces of firm fabric, 4” x 5”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#3 (wide 3-thread overlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Set the serger for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch (left needle).
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
OPTION I
• Serge one edge of the fabric, stitching off the end of the fabric; trim the thread tail.
• Continue serging around the square crossing over the previous stitching.
• Use a seam sealant on the untrimmed thread tails (or use a tapestry needle to weave the
thread tail back through the stitching). When the seam sealant is dry, trim the thread tails.
• Mount the sample on the next page.
OPTION II
• Before serging, trim away the seam allowance (¼”) for about 2” on each corner.
• Beginning at one trimmed corner, serge (cutting ¼” as you sew) to the end of the fabric.
Take one stitch off the end of the fabric.
• Locate the rolled hem dial on the stitch plate and pull the white dial towards you. This
will free the thread from the stitch finger.
• Lift the presser foot and carefully pivot the fabric 90° clockwise.
• Return the rolled hem dial to normal (away from you).
• Place the needle one stitch into the fabric and lower the presser foot.
• Continue serging until you are one stitch off the next corner.
• Repeat the turning procedure and continue serging.
• Mount the sample on the next page.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
OUTSIDE CORNERS
OPTION I
OPTION II
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YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THREE THREAD OVERLOCK
(3mm-5mm - Right Needle) Seam
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Lightweight fabric, 5” x 6”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#4 (narrow 3-thread overlock)
• Using the small screwdriver and brush/needle insertion tool, remove the left needle.
• Snug the needle set screw after removing the needle.
• Following the diagrams in the Owner’s manual, thread the serger for a narrow 3-thread
overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
• Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THREE THREAD OVERLOCK
(3mm-5mm - Right Needle) Seam Finish
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
2 pieces lightweight linen, 2½” x 5” each
2 strips of bias cut tricot, ¾” x 5” (optional)
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#4 (narrow 3-thread overlock)
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. (right needle).
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Serge one 5” raw edge on each piece of fabric. Optional: For added support, wrap the fabric
edge with strips of bias cut tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging.
• Using your BERNINA® sewing machine and a standard 5/8” seam allowance, seam the two pieces
of fabric together along the serged edges.
• Press the seam open.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
INSIDE CORNERS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
2 pieces of firm fabric, 3” x 4”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#4 (narrow 3-thread overlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle).
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
OPTION I
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
This technique works well for continuous plackets on sleeves and back neck openings.
Cut an inside corner into the fabric.
Snip into the corner ¼” (the width of the stitching).
Serge until the knife reaches the end of the cut.
Use the handwheel to lower the needle into the fabric.
Lift the presser foot and straighten the corner towards you.
Lower the presser foot and continue serging.
Trim and mount the sample on the next page.
OPTION II
• Rotate the upper knife up.
• Cut an inside corner into the fabric.
• Line up the left edge of the cut with the lower knife blade. Keep the edge of the fabric even with the
lower knife blade as you stitch.
• Serge for a few stitches. Turn the handwheel to lower the needle into the fabric.
• Fold the right side of the corner towards you at about a 45° angle.
• Serge one stitch beyond the cut edge. Turn the handwheel to lower the needle into the fabric.
• Lift the presser foot.
• Fold the serged edge down and to the left, angling the serged edge about 45°. Pivot the fabric until
the raw edge is even with the lower knife blade.
• Lower the presser foot and continue stitching.
• Use the thread cutter to cut the thread chain (the upper knife is disengaged).
• Return the upper knife to cutting position.
• Trim and mount the sample on the next page.
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MASTERING
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
INSIDE CORNERS
OPTION I
OPTION II
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YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THREE THREAD NARROW SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Batiste, 5” x 6”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#7 (narrow 3-thread seam)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Following the diagrams in the Owner’s manual, thread the serger for a narrow 3-thread
seam stitch (right needle) with the stitch finger retracted.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
• Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
TURNING TUBES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Tricot, 2” x 6”
75 Stretch Ballpoint
3 cones of serger thread
Standard
#7 (narrow 3-thread seam)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread seam stitch (right needle)
with the stitch finger retracted.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust stitch length to 2mm.
• Serge a thread chain several inches longer than the fabric.
• Fold the fabric, right sides together, to 1” x 6” encasing the thread
chain against the fold.
• With the folded edge aligned with the left edge of the presser
foot, serge the tube being careful not to catch the thread chain in
the stitching.
• After stitching the tube, gently pull on the thread chain and turn
the tube right side out.
• Mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
BLINDSTITCH FOOT
Blind Hem
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Cotton Jersey, 5” x 6”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Blindstitch Foot (optional accessory)
#6 (narrow 3-thread flatlock)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch (right needle).
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Following the instructions in the leaflet for the Blindstitch Foot, fold the fabric for a 1½” blind
hem and place the fabric under the foot.
Adjust the fabric guide so that the needle just catches the fold in the stitching.
Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the guide.
Press the hem.
Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
BLINDSTITCH FOOT
Hand-picked or Drapery Blind Hem
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight fabric, 5” x 6”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Blindstitch Foot (optional accessory)
#6 (narrow 3-thread flatlock)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch (right needle).
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Turn up a double folded 1” hem. Fold the remaining fabric under so that no fabric extends
beyond the upper edge of the hem.
Place the fabric under the presser foot. The fold of the fabric should rest against the guide.
Adjust the fabric guide so that the needle just catches the fold in the stitching.
Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the guide.
Press the hem.
Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
BLINDSTITCH FOOT
Decorative Tucks
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Batiste, 3” x 6”
70/10 Sharp or Microtex
3 cones of serger thread
Blindstitch Foot (optional accessory)
#4 (narrow 3-thread overlock)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Set the looper thread tension dials between 4-6.
Pull the rolled hem lever towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.5mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the stitch plate.
Stiffen the batiste with spray starch or fabric stiffener.
Mark three lines 1” apart across the fabric.
Fold the fabric wrong sides together along one marked line and place the fabric under the
presser foot with the fold against the guide.
• Serge the tuck; repeat for the two remaining marked lines.
• Return the rolled hem dial to the normal serging position.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
BLINDSTITCH FOOT
Joining Lace to Lace
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2 pieces of flat edging lace, 6” each
70/10 Sharp or Microtex
3 cones of serger thread
Blindstitch Foot (optional accessory)
#6 (narrow 3-thread flatlock)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch (right needle).
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Loosen the right needle tension slightly.
Pull the rolled hem dial towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.5mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the stitch plate.
Stiffen the lace with spray starch or fabric stiffener.
With right sides together, place the header of the laces under the presser foot against the guide.
Serge the laces together.
Gently pull the lace flat and press.
Trim and mount the sample
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THREE THREAD ROLLED HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight fabric, 3” x 6”
80/12 Universal
2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Woolly Nylon
Standard
#8 (3-thread rolled edge)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread rolled edge (right needle) with Woolly Nylon in
the upper looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Pull the rolled hem dial towards you.
• Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
• Set cutting width at 2 (normal).
• Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 6” edge.
• Return stitch length and thread tension dials to normal.
• Return the rolled hem dial to normal sewing position.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
CORDING FOOT
Bias Ruffle
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight fabric, 3” x 8”, cut on bias
80/12 Universal
2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Woolly Nylon
Nylon fishing line, 15-20 lb. test
Cording Foot (optional accessory)
#7 (narrow 3-thread seam)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread seam (right needle) with Woolly Nylon in
the upper looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Pull the rolled hem dial towards you.
• Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
• Set cutting width at 1.5mm.
• Attach the Cording Foot.
• Following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the Cording Foot, insert the nylon
fishing line through the guide.
• Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 8” edge stretching
the fabric edge as you sew.
• Return stitch length and thread tension dials to normal.
• Return the rolled hem dial to normal sewing position.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
CORDING FOOT
Wire-Edged Fabric
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight fabric, 3” x 18”
80/12 Universal
2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Woolly Nylon
28 gauge floral wire
Cording Foot (optional accessory)
#8 (3-thread rolled edge)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a narrow 3-thread rolled hem (right needle) with Woolly Nylon in the
upper looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Pull the rolled hem dial towards you.
• Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
• Set cutting width at 2 (normal).
• Attach the Cording Foot.
• Following the direction in the instruction leaflet for the Cording Foot, insert the wire through the
guides.
• Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 18” edge, feeding the wire through
the foot as you serge.
• Use wire cutters to cut the wire. Do not use the serger knives.
• Repeat for the other 18” edge of the fabric.
• Return stitch length and thread tension dials to normal.
• Return the rolled hem dial to normal sewing position.
• Secure the thread tails with a seam sealant. When the sealant is dry, cut the thread tails. Use
wire cutters to trim the wire, if needed.
• Tie the wired fabric into a bow.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
CORDING FOOT
Wire-edged Fabric
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THREE THREAD FLATLOCK
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Sweatshirt fleece, 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Jeans StitchÒ by YLI
Standard
#5 (wide 3-thread flatlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a wide 3-thread flatlock stitch (left needle) with Jeans StitchÒ in the
upper looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust the stitch length to 3mm. (You can shorten the stitch length slightly to fill in the stitch as
you serge.)
• Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 2” x 6”.
• Optional: Attach the Right Seam Guide. Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the
needle and the stitch finger.
• Place the fold under the foot. Guide the fabric halfway between the left needle and the right
edge of the stitch finger (or against the Right Seam Guide).
• Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the fabric on the right side of fold.
• Gently pull the fabric flat
• Return stitch length and thread tension dials to normal.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
WISH LIST
3-Thread Techniques
‰ Serger Technique Reference Book
‰ Feet-ures, Unit M
‰ Woolly Nylon Thread
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ Isacord Thread
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ Jeans Stitch® Thread
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ Needles
‰ Microtex
size____
size____
‰ Sharp
size____
size____
‰ Cording Foot
‰ Blindstitch Foot
‰ Right Seam Guide
‰ Aqua Film Stabilizer
‰ Seams Great (Bias Cut Tricot)
‰ Seam Sealant
‰ BERNINAÒ Ironing System
‰ 6” Ruler/Gauge
‰ Rotary cutter
‰ BERNINAÒ Cutting Mat
‰ BERNINAÒ 14” ruler
‰ Floral Wire - 28 gauge or smaller
‰ Wire Looper Threaders
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MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
1200DA/1300DC
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section D
Let’s Experiment
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
SECTION D
Let’s Experiment
Installing the Upper Looper Converter
Owner’s manual pg__
• Turn the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position before attaching the 2-thread Adapter
• Used for specialty stitches: 3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch, 2-Thread Wrapped Stitch, 2-Thread Flatlock,
2-Thread Rolled Edge
Specialty Stitches
• 3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch
- Ideal for active wear construction; use with Elasticator when applying elastic
• 2-Thread Flatlock
- Wide decorative stitch for home decor projects and active wear
• 2-Thread Rolled Hem
- Delicate decorative edge on fine fabrics
• 2-Thread Wrapped Edge
- Perfect decorative edge finish for blankets and polar fleece edges
Optional Presser Feet and Accessories
• Right Seam Guide
- Accurate seaming
- Attach the Right Seam Guide when working with standard patterns requiring a 5/8” seam allowances.
- Adjust the Guide, using a 6” ruler/gauge to measure from the far left needle.
• Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
- Instructional Leaflet for Multi-Purpose Foot
- Used for: Making covered corded piping, attaching beads, attaching sequins
- Cording Guide – Instructional Leaflet for Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Correctly feeds cording under the foot
Use with a variety of stitches
- Covering cord
4-thread overlock stitch, 3-thread wide overlock stitch
- Attaching beads
3-thread flatlock stitch – right or left needle, 2-thread flatlock – right or left needle
- Attaching sequins
3-thread overlock stitch – left needle, 3-thread flatlock – left needle, 3-thread flatlock – left needle
- Use with the Gathering Attachment
Gather fabric, creating and attaching covered cord in one operation
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
THREE THREAD SUPER STRETCH STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Cotton or nylon Lycra, 5” x 6”
80/12 Stretch or 11/75 Ballpoint
2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Woolly Nylon
Standard
#2 (3-thread super stretch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper.
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 3-thread super stretch stitch
using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm (normal).
• Fold the Lycra in half to 2½” x 6”.
• Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
ATTACHING ELASTIC WITH THE
SUPER STRETCH STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Cotton or nylon Lycra, 3” x 6”
12” of nylon or cotton elastic braid elastic
80/12 Stretch or 11/75 Ballpoint
2 cones of serger thread
1 cone of Woolly Nylon
Elasticator Foot (optional accessory)
#2 (3-thread super stretch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper.
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 3-thread super stretch stitch
using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.
• Turn the presser foot presser knob clockwise to increase the pressure.
• Attach the Elasticator Foot.
• Turn the pressure adjustment screw (on the roller guide) clockwise to set pressure as desired.
• Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of the presser foot.
• Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
TWO THREAD FLATLOCK STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton, 4” x 6”
80/12 Stretch
1 cone of serger thread
1 cone of Jeans Stitch®
Standard
#11(wide flatlock) or #12 (narrow flatlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper.
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 2-thread flatlock stitch using
Jeans Stitch® in the lower looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6” and position it halfway between the left needle and the stitch finger.
Optional: Attach the Right Seam Guide. Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the needl
and the stitch finger.
• Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the fabric on the right side of fold.
• Gently pull the fabric flat
• Return stitch length and thread tension dials to normal.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
SERGING WITH HEAVY DECORATIVE THREADS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
3 pieces medium weight cotton, 4” x 6” each
90/14 Stretch
1 cone of serger thread
1 cone of each of the following:
Pearl Crown Rayon, Candlelight,
Designer 6
Standard
#11 (wide flatlock) or #12 (narrow flatlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper.
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 2-thread flatlock stitch using
decorative thread in the lower looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. You can slowly shorten the stitch length as you serge to fill in the
flatlock stitch.
• Sew the sample. If the tension on the decorative thread is too tight, turn the looper tension dial to a
lower number and try again. If after reducing the thread tension with the looper tension dial, the
tension on the decorative thread is still too tight, remove the thread from the last thread guide and try
again.
• Experiment with the suggested threads, adjusting thread tension dials and by-passing thread guides
as needed.
• Press, trim, and mount the samples on the following page.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
Pearl Crown Rayon
Candlelight
Designer 6
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
TWO THREAD ROLLED HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Batiste, 3” x 6”
70/10 Sharp or Microtex
2 cones of lightweight serger thread
Standard
#13 (2-thread rolled edge)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper.
Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 2-thread rolled edge.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Pull the rolled hem dial towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
Set cutting width at 1mm.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 6” edge, trimming about 1/8” from the
raw edge.
• Return stitch length and thread tension dials to normal.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
WRAPPED EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Heavy wool or polar fleece, 5” x 6”
80/12 Stretch
1 cone of serger thread
1 cone of Jeans Stitch®
Standard
#9 (wide wrapped edge) or #10 (narrow wrapped edge)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper.
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 2-thread wrapped edge
using Jeans Stitch® thread in the lower looper.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one edge; adjust the differential feed
if needed.
• If the Jeans Stitch® does not wrap, the thread tension may be too tight. Reduce the looper thread
tension. If the thread still does not wrap, remove the Jeans Stitch® thread from the uppermost
thread guide and try again.
• Wrap-stitch the remaining three edges of the fabric.
• Use seam sealant to seal the stitching at the corners. When the sealant is dry, trim the thread tails.
• Return stitch length and thread tension dials to normal.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT
Corded Piping
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”
12” of 3/8” cotton cording
80/12 Stretch
4 cones of serger thread
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide (optional accessory)
#1 (4-thread overlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using
both needles.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Set stitch length to 3.5mm.
• Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the instruction manual for the
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
• Insert the cord into the guide.
• Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the groove under the foot.
• Serge the covered cord.
• Mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT
Creating and Attaching Corded Piping
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 8”
12” of 3/8” cotton cording
80/12 Stretch
4 cones of serger thread
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide (optional accessory)
#1 (4-thread overlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using
both needles.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the instruction manual for the
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
• Place the 3” x 8” fabric under the foot.
• Insert the cord into the guide.
• Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the groove under the foot and on
top of the other fabric.
• Serge, making the covered cord and attaching it to the fabric strip in one stitching.
• Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric strip.
• Mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT
With The Gathering Attachment
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”
Medium weight cotton, 3” x 8”
12” of 3/8” cotton cording
80/12 Stretch
4 cones of serger thread
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide (optional accessory)
Gathering Attachment (optional accessory)
#1 (4-thread overlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using
both needles.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust differential feed to 2.
• Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the instruction manual for the
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
• Attach the Gathering Attachment following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the Gathering
Attachment.
• Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the groove under the foot.
• Take 2 or 3 stitches into the fabric and lower the needles into the fabric.
• Place the 3” x 18” fabric under the Gathering Attachment and next to the needles.
• Serge, covering the cord, gathering the fabric strip and seaming all layers together in one operation.
• Mount the sample on the following page.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
MULTIPURPOSE FOOT
With The Gathering Attachment
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT
Attaching Pre-Strung Beads
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight, 4” x 6”
10” of plastic, pre-strung beads (4mm)
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Multi-Purpose Foot (optional accessory)
#6 (narrow 3-thread flatlock)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Following the instructions in the Owner’s manual thread the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch
using the right needle.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Set stitch length to 4mm.
• Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
• Optional: Attach the Right Seam Guide. Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the needle and
the stitch finger.
• Lay the pre-strung beads in the groove on the top of the foot, threading them under the back groove
(see instruction leaflet for the Multi-purpose Attachment with Guide). Turn the handwheel to encase
the first beads into the thread chain.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6” and place the fabric under the foot with the fold halfway between the
needle and the stitch finger or against the right seam guide.
• Slowly flatlock the beads to the folded fabric.
• Gently pull the fabric flat.
• Mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1200DA/1300DC
WISH LIST
Let’s Experiment
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
‰
Elasticator Foot
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Right Seam Guide
Gathering Attachment
Serger Technique Reference Book
Woolly Nylon thread
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ YLI Jeans Stitch®
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ YLI Decorator 6
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ YLI Candle Light
‰ color________
‰ color________
‰ Feet-ures, Unit M, Unit M
‰ BERNINA® Ironing System
‰ 6” ruler/gauge
‰ Pearls-By-The-Yard (3mm-4mm)
‰ Seam Sealant
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
1300DC
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section E
Cover and Chain
(1300DC only)
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BERNINA® 1300DC
SECTION E
Cover and Chain
Conversion To Cover/Chain Stitch
• Conversion – Owner’s manual pg__ and Quick Reference Card
• The Converter Arm – Owner's manual pg.____
- Disengages the Upper Looper shaft
- Removing the Knife Guard – Owner's manual pg.___
• Attaching the Cover/Chain Stitch Extension Plate – Owner's manual pg.___
• Swing Out Presser Foot – Owner's manual pg.___
- Easier needle threading
- Locks the machine for safety
• Raising the Knife Arm – Owner's manual pg.___
- Rotate the knife up
• Which Needles to Use – Owner's manual pg.___
- 4-Thread Coverstitch – Left, Center, and Right Needles
- Wide 3-Thread Coverstitch - Left and Right Needles
- Wide 4-Thread Reversible Coverstitch - Left and Right Needles
- Narrow 3-Thread (2.5mm) Coverstitch - Center and Right orLeft and Center Needles
- Chain Stitch - Right Needle Only
The Cover/Chain Stitch Foot
Owner's manual pg.___
• Wider for better fabric feeding
• Floating toes to level the presser foot
- Easier fabric guiding
• This presser foot does not swing to the left
• Closed holes
- Completes the threading path
Threading For Coverstitch
Owner's manual pg.___
• Threading Order
- First – Cover/Chain Looper
- Second – Right Needle (as needed)
- Third – Center Needle (as needed)
- Fourth – Left Needle (as needed)
• Raise the presser foot to open the tension disks.
Threading for Chain Stitch
Owner's manual pg.___
• Threading Order
- First – Cover/Chain Looper
- Second – Right Needle
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BERNINA® 1300DC
Threading For 5-Thread Stitch
Owner's manual pg.___
• Threading Order
- First – Upper Looper
- Second – Lower Looper
- Third – Overlock Needle
- Fourth – Chain Looper
- Fifth - Chain Needle
The Threading Path
Owner's manual pg.___
• Use the chart inside the looper cover as a quick reference
Threading The Cover/Chain Stitch Looper
• Separate Chain Stitch Looper
• Auto Threader - Owner's manual pg.___
- Use the handwheel to bring the Chain Stitch looper to the left before engaging
• Thread tail hangs down; cut it even with the base of the machine
• Thread Guide #11
- Study the chart inside the looper cover to see when to use this guide.
Test Sewing
Coverstitch - Owner's manual pg.___
• Cut all thread tails even with the freearm cover - Owner's manual pg.___
• Always start and end a coverstitch on fabric.
- Use a starting/ending scrap of fabric if you wish the coverstitch to be sewn to the edge of
the project fabric.
- To release thread, rotate the handwheel towards you, bringing the needles to the lowest
position, then rotate the handwheel away from you to raise the needles and free the threads
from the looper.
• Use the thread cutter to cut the thread chain.
Chain Stitch - Owner's manual pg.___
• Cut all thread tails even with the freearm cover - Owner's manual pg.___
• When first threading, always start with the needle down.
• Once the chain has been established, you can stitch onto and off of the fabric
• Use the thread cutter to cut the thread chain.
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Mock Flat Felled Seam
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton twill, 4” x 6”
90/14 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch or Standard
#21 (4-thread coverstitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread coverstitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Fold the fabric lengthwise to form a ½” tuck down the center.
Place the fabric under the needles with the bulk of the fold on the left. Align the edge of the fold
with the inside of the right floating toe of the foot.
Coverstitch the tuck in place; turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle to the lowest
position.
Turn the handwheel away from you to raise the needle to the highest position.
Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
Mock Flat Felled Seam
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton twill, 4” x 6”
90/14 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch or Standard
#21 (4-thread coverstitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread coverstitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Fold the fabric lengthwise to form a ½” tuck down the center.
Place the fabric under the needles with the bulk of the fold on the left. Align the edge of the fold
with the inside of the right floating toe of the foot.
Coverstitch the tuck in place; turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle to the lowest
position.
Turn the handwheel away from you to raise the needle to the highest position.
Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1300DC
Wide (5mm) Coverstitch
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton denim, 3” x 6”
90/14 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch or Standard
#22 (wide 3-thread coverstitch)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual pg.___
Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
Insert the left and right needles.
Thread the serger for a wide 3-thread coverstitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Place the fabric under the needles, centering the fabric under the presser foot.
Coverstitch the length of the fabric, stopping with the needles in the fabric.
Turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle to the lowest position; turn the handwheel
away from you to raise the needle to the highest position.
• Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
Coverstitch Hem
Woven Fabric
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight woven cotton, 5” x 6”
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch or Standard
#22 (wide 3-thread coverstitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
Thread the serger for a wide 3-thread coverstitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” side of the fabric. Glue-baste or pin in place.
Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric under the needles with the fold
to the right of the presser foot (stitching on the right side of the fabric).
Coverstitch the hem in place, stopping with the needles in the fabric.
Turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle to the lowest position; turn the handwheel
away from you to raise the needle to the highest position.
Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® 1300DC
Coverstitch Hem
Knit Fabric
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Cotton jersey (T-shirt fabric), 5” x 6”
80/12 Stretch or Ballpoint
3 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch or Standard
#22 (wide 3-thread coverstitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
Thread the serger for a wide 3-thread coverstitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” side of the fabric. Glue-baste or pin in place.
Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric under the needles with the fold
to the right of the presser foot (stitching on the right side of the fabric).
Coverstitch the hem in place. There is no need to stretch the fabric while stitching as the
coverstitch has some “give” to it.
Turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle to the lowest position; turn the handwheel
away from you to raise the needle to the highest position.
Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
Narrow (2.5mm) Coverstitch
Attaching Lace
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight woven cotton, 3” x 6”
8” of 1” wide lace edging
80/12 Universal
3 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch
#24 (3-thread narrow coverstitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
Insert the left and right needles.
Thread the serger for a narrow 3-thread coverstitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Stabilize the fabric and lace using spray starch or sizing.
Position lace on right side of fabric, aligning scalloped lace edge with right edge of fabric.
Place fabric and lace under the needles, aligning the lace header with the inside left floating toe of
the presser foot.
Coverstitch the lace to the fabric.
Turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle to the lowest position; turn the handwheel
away from you to raise the needle to the highest position.
Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric.
Trim the fabric from beneath the lace and mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
Chain Stitch Seam
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2 pieces medium weight cotton, 1½” x 6”
80/12 Universal
2 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch
#16 (chain stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
Insert the right needle.
Thread the serger for a chain stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Set stitch length at 3mm.
With right sides together, place fabric under the needle, aligning the edge of the fabric with the
5
/8” mark on the cover/chain stitch extension plate.
Chain stitch the fabrics together, stitching off the end of the fabric.
Following the directions on page ___ of the Owner’s manual, remove the chain stitch.
Lift the presser foot and insert the fabric; chain stitch the seam a second time.
Following the directions on page ___ of the Owner’s manual, secure the thread.
Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
Attaching Binding
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Prequilted fabric, 3” x 6”
20” of wide pre-folded bias binding
80/12 Universal
2 or 3 cones of serger thread
Coverstitch
#22 (wide 3-thread coverstitch) and #16 (chain stitch)
Coverstitch Option (Stitch #22)
• Convert the serger from overlock to coverstitch following the instructions in the Owner’s manual.
• Thread the serger for a wide 3-thread coverstitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Wrap binding around one 6” edge of the quilted fabric; use 505 spray adhesive to hold it in place.
• Place fabric under the needles, aligning the unstitched edge of the binding even with the inside
left floating toe of the presser foot. The quilted fabric will lay to the left.
• Coverstitch the binding to the quilted fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
Chain Stitch Option (Stitch #16)
• Thread the serger for a chain stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Wrap binding around the opposite 6” edge of the fabric; use 505 spray adhesive to hold it in place.
• Place fabric under the needle, aligning the unstitched edge of the binding even with the inside
right floating toe of the presser foot. The quilted fabric will lay to the right.
• Chain stitch the binding to the quilted fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
Decorative Chain Stitch
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
Medium weight cotton denim 6” x 6”
Tear Away Stabilizer 6 x 6”
80/12 Universal
1 cone of serger thread
3 cones of Isacord
1 spool of metallic thread
Coverstitch or Standard
#16 (chain stitch)
• Convert the serger from Overlock to Coverstitch using the directions on page__ in the Owner’s Manual.
• Set Stitch Length at 3mm.
• Thread the serger for a Chain Stitch threading the 3 Isacord thread colors through the thread guide for
the chain stitch (Lower) looper on the thread guide support. Thread all three threads together through
the chain stitch (Lower) looper tension discs and the chain stitch (Lower) looper thread guides. Use a
floss threader to thread the three threads through the eye of the looper.
• Slightly loosen (down) the tension on the chain stitch looper.
• With stabilizer on top and the right side of the fabric against the stitch plate, place the fabric under the
needle and lower the presser foot. (You will be stitching on wrong side of fabric with stabilizer on top).
• Stitch a curved line across the fabric.
• Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and turn the fabric over to see the decorative stitching.
• To make the decorative thread more defined, increase the stitch length. Changing the stitch length as
you sew varies the decorative chain stitch effect. The stitch length should be a minimum of 2.5mm.
• Stitch several more curving lines across the fabric.
• Remove one spool of Isacord thread and rethread the serger using 2 spools of Isacord and 1 spool of
metallic thread.
• Slightly loosen (down) the tension on the chain stitch looper.
• Sew several additional rows of decorative chain stitching.
• Trim and mount the sample on the following page.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
4-Thread Combination Stitch
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight woven fabric, 6” x 8”
80/12 Universal
4 cones of serger thread
Standard
#19 (2-thread overlock [left needle] with chain stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread combination stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Fold the fabric in half to 6” x 4”.
Serge along the folded edge.
Trim and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® 1300DC
5-Thread Combination Stitch
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Stitch:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight woven fabric, 6” x 8”
80/12 Universal
5 cones of serger thread
Standard
#18 (3-thread overlock [right needle] with chain stitch)
Owner’s manual pg.___
Thread the serger for a 4-thread combination stitch.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Fold the fabric in half to 6” x 4”.
Serge along the folded edge.
Trim and mount the sample.
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