MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
activa 125/135 PE/145
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
activa 125/135 PE/145/1
MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
Table of Contents
SECTION A
Pages 3-16
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
SECTION B
Pages 17-32
Let’s Start WIth The Basics
SECTION C
Pages 33-51
On The Edge
SECTION D
Pages 52-66
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
SECTION E
Pages 67-83
Miscellaneous Magic
SECTION F
Pages 84-92
Programming Pizzazz
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MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
activa 125/135 PE/145
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section A
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
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SECTION A
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
Machine Set Up
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Storage of Accessories – attach and detach
accessory cabinet from machine; adjust feet to
make the cabinet stand on tabletop. Arrange
shelves and drawers in cabinet (extra available);
insert presser feet & bobbins. (Optional for 125)
• Attach foot control; note storage of cords
• Power switch – Owner’s manual pg.____
• Extension table + sliding guide (optional)
• Presser foot lifter (optional)
- acts as a “third hand”
- extra 2mm of presser foot lift
- drops feed dog to give extra space between
presser foot and feed dog
- speeds sewing by 20%
- alternate size available for use with a sewing
machine cabinet
Presser Feet
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Importance of using the correct foot
• On-screen indicator
• Overview of included presser feet
• One-piece (135 PE/145) vs. Snap-on (125)
Feed Dog
Owner’s manual pg. ____
Threads
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Types of thread
• Uses for each type of thread
Needles
Owner’s manual pg.____
Bobbins
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Removing the bobbin case
• Winding a bobbin
• Use bobbin thread cutter
• Quick start bobbin – use thread cutter located in
the bobbin area
• Clip the thread close to the case before
removing the bobbin
Threading the Upper Thread
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Spool pins and discs – Owner’s manual pg.____
- vertical spool pin for stacked and decorative
threads
- horizontal spool pin for crosswound threads
- use disc closest to diameter of the spool
• Optional supplementary thread guide
• BERNINA® thread stand with extra thread guide
• Thread machine with the presser foot up until
ready to thread the needle
Threading the Needle
• Side thread cutter – Owner’s manual pg.____
• After the needle is threaded, put the thread
under the presser foot
• Lower the presser foot
• Insert the thread into the cutter; it is cut to the
proper length to begin sewing
Needle Stop Adjustment
• With the function button – Owner’s manual pg.___
• With the optional, upgraded foot control – Owner’s
manual pg.___
Needle Positions
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Nine positions
MASTERING
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BERNINA®
BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
Practical/Decorative Stitches
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Stitches programmed in the machine
• Uses for the stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.___
• How to select stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.__
Straight Stitching
• Seam measuring – stitch plate marks – Owner’s
manual pg.____
- the following measurements are indicated on
the stitch plate: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, ¾”, and 1”
- the line just behind the needle is 4mm
- the horizontal lines to the far back and the
line in front of the needle are 5/8” from needle
• Quilting/seam guide is included with the machine
• Left seam guide and seam guides with rulers are
available as optional accessories
• Straight stitch throat plate available
• Basting – stitch #14 (135 PE) or #15 (145) or
straight stitch with 5mm length (125)
Topstitching/Edgestitching
Owner’s manual pgs.____
Securing Stitches
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Stitch #5 (135 PE) - quilter’s securing program
• Stitch #5 (125/145) - securing stitch
Satin Stitches
• Thread bobbin case finger to adjust tension
• Can taper while sewing
• Stabilizer – important to the success of stitches
Altering Stitches
Owner’s manual pg.____
Restoring Basic Settings
Owner’s manual pg.____
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Speed Controls
• Two ways to control – Owner’s manual pg.___
- ½ speed function button
- ½ stitch at a time with Needle Up/Down
- ½ stitch at a time by tapping the back of the
optional upgraded foot control
Changing the Light Bulb
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Use only 12V 5W. W 2.1 x 9.5d bulbs
Cleaning the Feed Dog
• Periodically remove thread fluff and fabric fuzz
which collects under the stitch plate. Refer to
manual for step-by-step instructions (pg.___).
Cleaning and Lubricating the Hook
• Low mass hook system does not require
lubrication
• See Owner’s manual page ____ for step-by-step
cleaning instructions
Cleaning the Screen
• Wipe only with a damp cloth
Cleaning the Outside of the Machine
• Wipe with damp cloth. If needed, use a solution
of water and a few drops of liquid soap.
IMPORTANT: Never use oil, alcohol, or
solvents of any kind on any part of the
external surface of the machine.
Here’s an idea...Use your birthday
month as a reminder to have your
BERNINA® machine serviced. Take
it to an authorized BERNINA®
technician during the month
of your birthday and you’ll
never have to remember
when it was last serviced.
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THREADS
Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through
the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor
quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle
breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size
needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.
Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s
fabrics for fine stitches.
Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread
fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.
Ply – the number of single strands twisted together to make a single thread.
Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to
appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll.
Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should
not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and
weak spots in seams.
Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling.
This gives average stitch quality.
Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better
than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook
point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such
as Sulky’s rayons and metallics. Made in West Germany, these are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord
threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand
of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.
Fiber – refers to the typ eof material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:
• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made,
natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Also Isacord
embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.
• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate
machine embroidery, and darning.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine
embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.
• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers.
Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton
thread stretches less than polyester.
• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.
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NEEDLES
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage
to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damages, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all
needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing
project, three things must be considered:
Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage
Needle size – small size for lightweight fabrics; larger needle for heavier fabrics
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the hook point
Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter loop to form stitch
Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make a stitch
Need To Know
• Needle should be changed every 4-6
hours of sewing. The needle is the most
inexpensive part in your sewing machine
but is one of the most crucial for getting
good results and keeping your machine
running well. Don’t let false economy
keep you from doing what is best for
your sewing projects and your machine.
• European needles are chrome-plated
to glide in and out of fabric easily.
• The selected thread should fit in the
groove on the front of the needle. If it
isn’t protected by the groove, a needle
with a larger groove should be used.
• Always make sure the needle is fully
inserted as high as possible when
installing a new one.
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SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES
Ball Point
70-90
Has a rounder point. 70 for
lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for
T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.
Microtex
60-90
Sharp
(Schmetz)
Stretch
70-90
A stretch needle has a more
rounded point and a blue anticling coating which helps to
prevent skipped stitches in knits
and elastic. Sometimes used on
Ultrasuede®, vinyl, and plastic.
Microfiber
(Lammertz)
Stretch
Double
Universal
2.5/75
4.0/75
Two ballpoint needles on one
shank; each needle has a large
scarf. Used for hemming and for
stitching on knit fabric.
60-110 A compromise between a sharp
and a ballpoint needle; can be
used on both wovens and knits.
60 – very fine batiste
70 – broadcloth
80 – trigger and gabardine
90 – denim and twill
100 & 110 – canvas
Double
Universal
1.6/70- Two needles attached to one
8.0/100 shank. Used for pintucks, hems,
and decorative work.
Triple
(Drilling)
3.0/90
Jeans
Jeans
Double
70-90
Three needles attached to one
shank. Used to create mock
smocking and other decorative
effects.
Has a sharp point and a shaft
that is less prone to flex. The
sharpness of the needles makes
it better for use on denim and
woven fabrics where a clean
stitch is desired.
4.0/100 Two Jeans needles attached to
one shank. For topstitching on
denim with heavy thread; can
also be used for decorative
stitching with metallic thread.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Quilting
Topstitch
A sharp point with a thin shaft.
60-90 corresponds to the weight
of the fabric; as the fabric gets
heavier, the number is higher.
assort’d The thin, tapers point of this
(75 & needle causes less damage to
fabric when seaming and cross
90)
seaming.
80-100
A sharp point with a large eye
and deep groove. For use with
heavier fabrics – the large
groove cradles heavier threads.
75-90
Sharp needle with a large eye
and groove; also has a coating
and a larger scarf. For use with
embroidery thread – prevents
shredding of rayon or metallic
threads. Two threads may be
used through the eye of an 80
or 90 needle.
Metafil
Double
3.0/75
Two Metafil needles attached to
one shaft; for double needle
work with embroidery threads.
Wing
100120
Sharp pointed needle with a noncutting wedge of metal on each
side. Needle makes a hole in the
fabric without cutting the threads
of the fabric. Used for decorative
and heirloom work, such as
hemstitching. Works best on
natural fibers or on the bias.
Double
Wing
100
One regular needle and one wing
needle attached to a single shaft.
Use the same as a Wing; makes
one large and one regular hole.
Leather
80-90
Point is a sharp cutting wedge.
Used for sewing leather only. Not
for vinyl or simulated leathers.
Embroidery
(Schmetz)
Metafil
(Lammertz)
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NEEDLE POSITIONS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firmly woven fabric, 4” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• The activa machines have 9 fixed needle positions.
• Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.
• Select Straight Stitch. The basic settings are displayed
on the screen. The needle position indicator is just
below the stitch width scale; the needle should be in
center position.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the
right side of the stitch plate.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one position to the left.
• Sew another 6 stitches and stop again.
• Repeat until all five positions have been sewn.
• Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle
position back to center.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one position to the right.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one more position to the right – sew
another 6 stitches and stop again.
• Repeat until all five positions have been sewn.
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SEAMING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate.
• Place fabric pieces right sides together and
align them with the guide line.
• Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.
• Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide to the foot
and sew a 2” seam on the other side.
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BASTING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Place fabric pieces right sides together.
135 PE/145:
• Select the basting stitch (#14 on the 135 PE and #15 on the 145)
• Baste a 5/8” seam along one edge of the fabric using the following steps:
- Position fabric under the presser foot and sew one stitch; hold threads when starting.
- Pull the fabric from behind, creating the desired stitch length.
- Continue in this manner until the seam is complete.
125:
• Select Straight Stitch #1; adjust the length to 5mm
• Baste a 5/8” seam along one edge of the fabric.
Note: Loosening the top tension makes the stitches easier to remove.
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TOPSTITCHING/EDGESTITCHING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 4” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Cut fabric in half to create 2 pieces each 2” x 6”.
• Sew two pieces together with a 5/8” seam on the 6” sides.
• Press the seam open.
• From the right side, position the blade of the foot in the ditch of the seam.
• Select Triple Straight Stitch #6.
• Move the needle position 3 places to the left.
• Sew the length of the seam.
• Select the longest stitch length.
• Move the needle position to the far right.
• Start at the top of the seam as before.
• Sew down the length of the seam again.
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SECURING STITCHES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold each fabric piece in half to 1½” x 6”.
• Find the 5/8” seam line on the guide plate.
• The BERNINA® 125/135 PE/145 secures in two ways:
1 – Select stitch #3 and sew a few stitches. Press the Quick Reverse button located on the
front of the sewing machine and the machine will sew in reverse until the button is released.
Continue stitching the seam and secure the end in the same manner.
135 PE 2 – Select stitch #5 and stitch. The machine takes six short stitches, then continues with the
selected stitch length. Stitch the seam, stopping about ¼” from the end. Press and release
the Quick Reverse button. The machine will stitch siz short stitches and stop.
125/145 3 – Select stitch #5 and stitch. The machine will automatically reverse after five stitches, then
continue in a forward motion. Stitch to the end of the seam, then press and release the Quick
Reverse button. The machine will stitch backward five stitches, and then continue forward again
five stitches and stop.
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SATIN STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. Cotton Embroidery
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.
• Select Stitch #2. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to 5.5mm.
• Thread the bobbin thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case.
• Move the needle position all the way to the left.
• Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate).
• Sew down this edge about 1”. While continuing to sew, press the stitch width button to taper the stitch to
0mm. Then widen the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until the stitching reaches the end of the fabric.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).
• Move the needle position all the way to the right and stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering
and widening the stitching while sewing.
• Move the needle position to the center and stitch down the center of the fabric, tapering and widening
the satin stitch while sewing.
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ALTERED MEMORY
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 6” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold fabric to 3” x 6”.
• Select the Blanket Stitch (# 14 on the 125, #9 on the 135 PE, and #21 on the 145).
• Sew a row of stitching as programmed down the center of the sample.
• Alter stitch length to 4mm and sew a second row on one side of the first.
• Select Zigzag Stitch #2 - (the one used for satin stitching in the previous exercise). Notice the computer
remembered all the changes made to the stitch.
• Reselect stitch #9 or #21; alter stitch width to 5mm and sew a 3rd row.
• Touch CLR - notice the alterations made are gone.
• Select stitch #2 again - notice the changes made to it are gone also. CLR returns all stitch alterations back
to default settings.
• The computer will remember any and all stitches you alter, as long as the clear buttons are not used and
as long as the machine is not turned off.
Return to Basic Settings: 2 options:
Press the external CLR button or manually set changes back to the basic mark
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WISH LIST
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
Accessory Cabinet (125 only - included with 135 PE and 145)
FHS system
Slide-on Extension Table with Guide
Feet-ures
Edgestitch Foot #10
Additional bobbin holders for accessory cabinet
Additional presser foot holders for accessory cabinet
Stabilizers – Sampler Pack or type __________
type __________
Thread – Assortment or
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
Needles – Assortment or
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
Needle Threader
Bobbins – Baker’s dozen
Spool Bobbin Holders
Magnetic Pin Cushion
Magnetic Bobbin Holder
Straight Stitch Plate
Seam Sealant
Extra Thread Stand
Scissors - 6” or 7” Dressmaker’s shears ____
4” or 5” Trimming scissors ____
Thread nips ____
Left guide (matches right guide included with machine)____
Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left) ____
Set of Magnifying Glasses
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MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
activa 125/135 PE/145
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section B
Let’s Start With The Basics
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SECTION B
Let’s Start With The Basics
Seams
Triple Straight Stitch – SL 2-3mm
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Jeans Foot #8 prevents needle deflection
• Non-Stick Straight Stitch Foot #53
• This stitch sews strong seams on heavy
fabrics
Zigzag – SL1mm SW1.5mm
Owner’s manual pgs.____
Vari-Overlock – SL1mm SW4mm NP right
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Can be used with double needle for a
decorative hem on knits
• Overlock Foot #2 prevents the seam from
rolling as it is being sewn
Double Overlock – SL2mm
Owner’s manual pg. ____
SW5mm
Oversewing Edges
Owner’s manual pg.____
Hems
Blind Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
• The Blind Hem Foot #5, along with the
blindstitch, produces a superior blind hem.
The zigzag part of the stitch is formed over
the guide on the foot, causing the stitch to
be slightly loose, so that the blind hem will
not pucker and does not form a tuck in the
fabric.
Hand Picked – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
Triple Zigzag – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.____
• This stitch is used for strong, visible hems
on firm, coarse fabrics such as denim and
canvas.
Double Needle – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.___
Stitching Corners
• Use the 5/8” markings on stitch plate
• Engage the Needle Down function
• Press heel on optional, upgraded foot control
to lower needle
• Utilize the FHS system (optional) to raise and
lower the presser foot when turning corners.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Neckline Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
Jeans – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
• Height Compensation Tool
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TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Denim, 4” x 6”
90/14 Jeans
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise forming two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Triple Straight Stitch #6.
• Sew the two pieces together with a 5/8” seam allowance using Reverse Pattern Foot #1.
• Press the seam open.
• Change to Edgestitch Foot #10 and adjust the needle position to stitch through the seam allowance.
• Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.
• With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, topstitch the length of the seam on both sides.
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ZIGZAG SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm knit – 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2 – SW 1mm and SL 0.5mm.
• Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.
• Stitch the seam.
• Clip one seam allowance in the middle.
• Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed, so the stitch is visible.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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SUPER STRETCH SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy Double Knit, 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut fabric in half lengthwise creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select stitch #18.
• Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.
• Stitch the seam.
• Clip one seam allowance in the middle and press one part of the seam open.
• Trim and mount the sample.
Note: This stitch is good for an open seam on all knit fabrics; works well for sportswear.
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VARI-OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Cotton Interlock, 4” x 6”
Ribbing, 2” x 4”
80/12 Univeral
All-purpose
Overlock Foot #2
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut an inside curve in one corner of the fabric to simulate a neckline.
• Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch #3.
• Engage the Needle Down function.
• Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing and fabric, right sides together).
• Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of the foot and stitch; stitch length and width can
be adjusted, if needed.
• Trim the sample and mount with the ribbing pressed to the finished position.
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MASTERING
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
DOUBLE OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Single Knit – 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Overlock Foot #2
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6’ each.
• Select the Double Overlock Stitch #8.
• Guide the raw edge along the pin of the Overlock Foot.
• The right swing of the needle should go off the fabric edge.
• Trim the sample and mount.
Note: This is a good overlock seam for loosely knit fabrics and for cross
seams in other knits and jerseys.
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MASTERING
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
STITCHING CORNERS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 5” x 5” each
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Straight Stitch #1.
• Place fabric pieces right sides together.
• Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot.
• The right edge should be even with the 5/8” seam line.
• Engage the Needle Down function.
• Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop.
• Pivot and continue sewing until you come to the next corner and do the same thing.
• Stitch only three sides of this sample.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
OVERSEWING EDGES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy Flannel – 3” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2.
• Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.
• Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot.
• The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.
• Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.
• Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
BLIND HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy Flannel – 6” x 7”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse pattern Foot #1 and
Blind Hem Foot #5
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Finish one 6” edge of the fabric following the steps of the previous exercise.
• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.
• Attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1.
• Baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.
• Select the Blindstitch #7 and attach Blind Hem Foot #5.
• Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.
• Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.
• Adjust the stitch width if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.
• Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown in the drawing.
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MASTERING
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
HAND PICKED HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight broadcloth – 6” x 7”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Blind Hem Foot #5
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Turn up a 1” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.
• Turn up the depth of the hem again and press.
• Fold the entire hem toward the right side of the garment, so that the garment fold is
almost even with the top edge of the hem. A scant 1/8” to 1/16” of hem edge should
be visible. This will ensure that both folds are caught by the blind hem pick.
• Place the fabric under the foot just as a traditional blind hem would be placed.
• Sew the hem with Blindstitch #7, making sure that the zigzag pick catches both folds
while the straight stitch falls off the edge and stitches in air forming a chain along the
upper hem edge.
• Press and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
TRIPLE ZIGZAG HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firmly woven – 6” x 7”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric; press.
• Select the Triple Zigzag Stitch #6.
• Adjust stitch length and width as desired.
• From the right side of the fabric, stitch the hem in place, sewing about 1½” from the fold.
Note: The guide on the optional slide-on extension table can be used for accuracy.
Another option is to use the optional Seam Guide with Ruler.
• From the wrong side, trim the excess fabric close to the stitches.
• Press and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
DOUBLE NEEDLE HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Cotton interlock – 6” x 7”
Double 3.0/80
All-purpose, 2 colors
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Turn up a 2” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.
• Insert a 3.0/80 double needle.
• Thread the needles with two different colors of thread.
• Place the folded edge of the fabric along the 1” guideline on the right side of the stitch plate.
Note: The guide on the optional slide-on extension table can be used for accuracy.
Another option is to use the optional Seam Guide with Ruler.
• Select stitch #1; sew half of the hem.
Note: To be sure the needles will not strike the foot, turn the handwheel to “walk” the
machine through the first stitch. Narrow the width as needed to avoid breaking needles.
• Select stitch #7 or experiment with similar stitches; stitch the remainder of the seam.
• Trim excess fabric from the wrong side of the hem.
• Check Feet-ures, Unit A for detailed information on working with Double and Triple needles.
Note: This is a good stitch to use when hemming T-shirts and pajamas. You can use
other stitches with a double needle for other types of fabrics.
• Press and mount the sample.
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MASTERING
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
NECKLINE HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Single knit cotton – 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut a curve to simulate a neck edge in one corner.
• Sew a line of stay-stitching, 3/8” in from the neck edge using the straight stitch adjusted to a
length of 5mm.
• Turn the raw edge under and press or baste in place.
• Select the Honeycomb Stitch (#54 on the 135 PE and #19 on the 145).
• Sew from the right side ¼” from the folded edge.
• Trim surplus fabric from wrong side, close to the stitching.
Notes: - If the hem stretches, add a strip of Stitch Witchery® to the edge as it is
stay-stitched.
- Using the Needle Stop Down function will keep the fabric in place when
sewing curves.
- The Balance function can be used to make the stitches closer together or
farther apart.
• Press and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
JEANS HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Denim – 5” x 7”
100/16 or 110/18 Jeans
All-purpose
Jeans Foot #8
Note: Specially designed to sew over heavy seams and fabrics, the Jeans Foot #8 guides the
needle through heavy thicknesses and helps to eliminate needle breakage. It is also effective
for topstitching with buttonhole twist or cordonnet threads.
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut fabric in two pieces, 5” x 3½” each.
• Insert a Jeans needle and select stitch #1.
• Sew a 5/8” seam with right sides together.
• Press the seam to one side.
• Topstitch, using the edge of the foot along the seam as a guide, and stitching through the seam
allowances.
• Turn up the lower edge twice, about 3/8” each time.
• Topstitch the hem in place, about 1/8” from the upper edge of the hem.
Note: Use the Height Compensation tool to level the surface if needed.
• Press and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
WISH LIST
Let’s Start WIth The Basics
Presser Feet and Attachments:
Overlock Foot #2
Embroidery Foot #6
Jeans Foot #8
Edgestitch Foot #10
Straight Stitch Foot #13
Cut and Sew Attachment #80
Slide-on Extension Table with Guide
Feet-ures
Double Needles
2.0mm
2.5mm
3.0mm
Jeans Needles
90/14
100/16
Double
Stitch Witchery - 5/8” roll
BERNINA Ironing System
Curved Hem Ruler
6” Sewing Gauge
Seam Pressing Stick
BERNINA Cutting Mat
BERNINA 14” Ruler
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MASTERING
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
activa 125/135 PE/145
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section C
On The Edge
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
SECTION C
On The Edge
Buttonholes
Owner’s manual pg.____
Feet-ures, Unit A
• Types and Uses
• Preparation
- proper stabilizers
- sometimes using two or more layers
- proper adhesion of iron-on stabilizers
• Positioning:
- marking
- full bust can be beginning point
- using spacing tape
- using Simpflex
• Measuring the Button:
- to determine length of buttonhole
• Grading Seams
- using applique scissors
• Height Compensation Tool
- keep foot level
• Buttonhole Leveler
• Tension Adjustments
• Testing:
- always use same fabric, thread and stabilizer
• Cutting Open:
- seam sealant
- block and cutter
• Tricks:
- wash-a-way stabilizer for high pile fabrics
- Stitch Witchery® for loose wovens or knits
• Buttonhole Balance
• Programmed Buttonholes (135PE/145 only)
• Corded Buttonholes:
- with gimp cord
- with threads
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Sewing Buttons On
Owner’s manual page ____
Feet-ures, Unit D
• Button Sew-On Stitch (135PE/145 only)
- regular
- decorative
- snaps, hooks, and charms
- tie a quilt
Edges
• Picot – Feet-ures, Unit D
• Shell
- blindstitch – Feet-ures, Unit A
- hemmer feet #68 or #69 – Feet-ures, Unit I
• Rolled and Whipped Edge – Feet-ures, Unit A
• Fine Edge – Feet-ures, Unit B
• Corded Edge – Feet-ures, Unit B
- for tucks
- for hems
• Designer Hem – Feet-ures, Unit B
Attaching Elastics
• Types
• Methods of applying
- turn under
- couching over
- lingerie
activa 125/135 PE/145/34
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BUTTONHOLES AND EYELETS
TYPES AND USES
+X
STANDARD BUTTONHOLE
Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens.
HEIRLOOM BUTTONHOLE
Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers. children’s and baby
clothes, doll clothes, heirloom work.
STRETCH BUTTONHOLE
All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic fibers.
ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK
Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.
ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK
Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.
X
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK
Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH POINTED BARTACK
Non-stretch firm fabric. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORIZONTAL BARTACK
Firm, non-stretch fabrics. jackets, coats, leisure wear.
O
STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLE
For prestitching buttonholes and pocket openings. For bound buttonholes & welt pockets.
X
BUTTON SEW-ON PROGRAM
For flat buttons with 2 and 4 holes. For sewing on snaps, hooks, and charms.
NARROW ZIGZAG EYELET
Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.
STRAIGHT STITCH EYELET
Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.
+ available on the activa 125
X available on the activa 135 PE and 145
O also available on the activa 145
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
BUTTONHOLE FEET
A number of buttonhole feet are available for BERNINA® sewing machines.
The descriptions below will help differentiate between the various feet.
BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3
The standard 5mm buttonhole foot.
®
Works with any BERNINA sewing machine
BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3B
A 5mm foot with a movable slide indicating
buttonhole length, making it easy to
stitch a series of identical buttonholes.
®
Works with any BERNINA sewing machine.
AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3A
Automatic foot for machines with a 5mm and
9mm feed system. “A” indicates an “automatic”
foot, with a light sensor for counting stitches.
Works with models 1130-1530 and 150-170QPE.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C
The standard 9mm buttonhole foot.
“C” indicates a “coded” foot, with a light
sensor that allows 9mm wide stitching.
Works with models 1630 and artista 180.
AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C
The automatic buttonhole foot for
machines with a 9mm feed system,
indicated by the letter “C”.
Works with models 1630 and artista 180.
AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3A
Combines the handy slide measuring system of
Buttonhole Foot #3B with the electronic sensor of the
older Automatic Buttonhole Feet #3A and #3C.
Works with models 135 PE/145 and 150-180.
activa 125/135 PE/145/36
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
STABILIZERS
Tear-Away Stabilizer: The most commonly used type of stabilizer, designed to provide
temporary support of stitching. Placed on the wrong side of the project and carefully
pulled away once stitching is complete. Available in three weights – heavy, medium, and
light. Multiple lightweight layers may be preferable to one heavy layer, as they are easier
to remove.
Cut-Away Stabilizer: The most widely used stabilizer in the commercial market. Does
not break down under dense stitching, due to the high fiber – rather than paper – content.
Excess stabilizer is trimmed away after stitching (leave approximately ¼” of stabilizer
around the edges).
Web/Poly-Mesh Type Stabilizer: A specially formulated cut-away stabilizer developed
for use behind lightweight or light-colored fabrics.
Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Used for backing and topping, in single or multiple layers.
Available in two weights. Excellent for decorative stitching and cutwork as there are
no remnants of stabilizer left after removal (it dissolves). As a topping, it keeps stitches
from being lost in heavily napped fabrics such as velvet and corduroy.
Knit Fusible Interfacing: A very lightweight, flexible interfacing sometimes used as a
stabilizer, it gives permanent support (as an underlining) to a fabric. Perfect for plackets,
garment edges, under buttonholes, and anywhere extra body and stability are needed.
Woven Fusible Interfacing: This interfacing is sometimes used as a stabilizer and is
generally cut on the bias to provide better drape. Gives a firmer hand or finish than knit
or non-woven interfacings. Used for lapels, facings, and anywhere a great deal of extra
body and stability are needed.
Iron-On Stabilizer: A non-woven product similar to paper. Perfect for knits, this tearaway stabilizer is temporarily bonded to the fabric, inhibiting the tendency of the material
to stretch.
Heat Removable Stabilizer: Woven from strands of fiber that are burned away at a low
temperature, heat removable stabilizers are perfect for heirloom stitchery.
Liquid/Spray Stabilizers: Wonderful for sheer fabrics from which all stabilizer must be
removed after stitching, these products are painted or sprayed onto the fabric. Several
light applications of spray stabilizer are preferable to one heavy application.
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MANUAL BUTTONHOLES
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
1 piece, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 weight cotton embroidery
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold one piece of fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.
• Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length.
• Mark two horizontal lines, running between the fold and the drawn line, spaced about 2” apart.
• Select buttonhole #10 – the standard buttonhole.
• Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the fold of the fabric with the 5/8” marking behind the foot.
• Sew the first side of the buttonhole.
• Stop at the drawn line.
• Continue stitching the remaining steps of the buttonhole, following the directions in the owner’s manual.
135 PE/145 only:
• Select keyhole buttonhole #11. Place the second short line under the presser foot as before.
• Sew the keyhole buttonhole on the second marked line.
• Cut one buttonhole open.
• Trim and mount the sample.
135 PE/145 only
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
BUTTONHOLE BALANCE
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 9”
1 piece, 6” x 9”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidert
Buttonhole Foot #3 or
Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A
•
•
•
•
•
Owner’s manual page __.
Select buttonhole #10.
Sew about a 1” buttonhole using the counted stitch method and mark it #1.
Adjust the balance toward the closed stitch icon.
Sew the buttonhole and mark it #2.
Note: This buttonhole bead is very dense.
• Turn the balance knob toward the open stitch icon.
• Sew another buttonhole; now the stitches are farther apart.
• Mark the sample with #3.
Note: This buttonhole bead is very open.
• Return the balance knob to mormal.
#3
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
#2
#1
activa 125/135 PE/145/39
MASTERING
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
This exercise is for the activa 145 only
STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLES
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Linen fabric, 6” x 6”
1 piece, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 weight cotton embroidery
Auto Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A
Owner’s manual page___
• Select stitch #12.
• Attach Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A to the machine.
Sample #1
Note: Straight stitch buttonholes can be used to pre-sew and reinforce buttonholes on
fabrics which fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks will cover the stitching.
• Mark three lines perpendicular to the fold, spacing them about 2” apart.
• Move the red slide on the foot to 29mm.
• Position the fabric under the neeedle, aligning the fold with the 5/8” marking behind the foot.
• Stitch the buttonhole on the first line - Do not remove the fabric.
• Select stitch #10 - sew this buttonhole (the same 29mm size) on top of the straight stitch buttonhole.
Sample #2
Note: Straight stitch buttonholes can be used as a buttonhole on imitation suede and leather.
• Select stitch #12 again and sew a straight stitch buttonhole on the second line.
Sample #3
Note: The distance between the prestitched lines can be adjusted with the stitch width.
• Adjust the width of the buttonhole to 5mm.
• Sew a second buttonhole on the third line.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
Auto Buttonhole Foot
with Slide #3A
Standard Buttonhole
Foot #3
CORDED BUTTONHOLES
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
Two 10” lengths of gimp cprd
1 piece, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 weight cotton embroidery
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 (optional with 135 PE/145) and
Auto Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A (optional with 125)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.
• Mark a line 1½” from the fold and running the length of the fabric.
• Mark two horizontal lines between the fold and the line, spaced about 2” apart.
• Select the Standard Buttonhole #10.
• Place the fold so it is on the 5/8” line behind the presser foot.
• Lower the needle into the fabric on the first line.
• Fold one piece of cord in half; place loop around prong of the Auto Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A.
Note: The cord strengthens the buttonhole on wovens and prevents it from stretching on knits.
The thickness of the cord depends on the fabric to be sewn. Suitable cords are perle cord #8,
thick hand sewing thread, gimp cord, or crochet cotton.
• Sew the buttonhole.
• Pull the loop of gimp cord snug and cut tails close to bartack.
Note: On knits, pull to back and tie a knot.
• Sew another corded buttonhole using the optional Buttonhole Foot #3 on the second line.
• The cord may come away from the prong of this foot. Therefore it is advisable to hold the loop of the gimp
down lightly with the finger.
• Pull the cord ends to the back with a large hand sewing needle and tie.
• Trim and mount sample.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
BUTTON SEW-ON STITCH
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
1 piece, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 weight cotton embroidery
Button Sew-On Foot #18 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select the Button Sew-on program (stitch #12 on the 135 PE or #13 on the 145).
• Engage the Securing function as you begin—then turn it off—engage it again as you end.
• Lower the feed dogs.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6”; press. Insert the stabilizer.
Notes: - You can sew buttons on to stay!
- A low shank can be made for dresses and blouses or a high shank
can be made for heavier fabrics such as coats and blazers.
- Use the Button Sew-On Foot #18 to sew on waistband closures,
hook-and-eye fasteners, snaps, curtain rings, and charms.
Tecnique #1
• Select stitch #12/#14; set up as above.
• Use a glue stick to position a button in place.
• Adjust the pin on Foot #18 to the highest position for a long shank.
• Check the distance between the holes of the button by turning the hand wheel.
• Adjust the stitch width if necessary.
• Hold the thread tails as you begin to sew.
Technique #2
• Using the lowest shank setting, attach a charm, a length of ribbon, and a hook-and-eye to the same
fabric.
• Trim threads close and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
PICOT EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight single knit cotton, 6” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select the Vari-Overlock stitch #3 - SW 4-5mm and SL 1.5mm.
• Fold under one 6” edge about ½” and press.
• Place fabric to the left and position it under the foot so that the stitch, when it swings to the right,
will just pass over the folded edge.
• On knit fabrics the surplus can be trimmed from the wrong side close to the stitch.
• On woven fabrics it is advisable to first sew a row of small zigzag stitches about ¼” from where
the picot edge will be. Then you will be able to trim close to these stitches after the picot has
been stitched.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This stitch is suitable only for fine, soft fabrics and is ideal for lingerie and nightwear.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
SHELL EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Nylon tricot, 6” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select the Blind stitch #7 - SW 2.5-5mm and SL 1.5-2mm. The longer the stitch length, the
larger the shells.
• Engage the mirror image function.
• Fold under one 6” edge about ½” and press.
• Place fabric to the left and position it under the foot so that the stitch, when it swings to the
right, will just pass over the folded edge.
• On knit fabrics the surplus can be trimmed from the wrong side close to the stitch.
• On woven fabrics it is advisable to first sew a row of small zigzag stitches about ¼” from
where the shell edge will be. Then you will be able to trim close to these stitches after the
edge is finished.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This stitch is suitable for fine, fabrics and is ideal for lingerie and nightwear.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
ROLLED AND WHIPPED EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Buttonhole Foot #3
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Clean one 6” edge of “whiskers”
• Select the ZigZag Stitch #2 - SW 2.5mm and SL 1mm or less.
• Select the left needle position.
• Loosen the top tension if necessary.
• Place cut edge of fabric between the center and right toes of the presser
foot and sew.
Notes:
- The left swing of the needle should be in the fabric, while the right
swing falls off of the right edge of the fabric.
- As the needle swings left, it should roll the fabric into a tiny rolled edge.
- The finer the fabric, the finer the needle and thread used.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This edge finish is used on a single thickness of fine lightweight fabrics.
It is also use as a seam finish or as an edge on ruffles, hems etc.
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FINE EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Batiste, 6” x 4”
70/10 Universal
60 wt. needle and bobbin
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select the ZigZag Stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL 1mm.
• Select the left needle position.
• Fold under ½” hem allowance on one 6” edge and press.
• Place the fabric right side upper most, to the left of the guide on the foot and sew the edge.
• When completed, trim away surplus fabric from the wrong side, close to the stitch.
• Mount the sample.
Note: Reverse Pattern Foot #1 can be used - settings as above but use center needle position.
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CORDED EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 6” x 4”
Pearl Crown Rayon cord
80/12 Universal
To match cord
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold under a ½” hem allowance on one 6” edge and press.
• Place the folded edge, right side up, against the left side of the center blade.
• Select the ZigZag stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL 1mm or adjust as needed.
• Adjust the needle position so the stitch falls on the folded edge.
• The right swing of the needle should barely miss the edge of the fold, stitching in air.
• Sew 2 or 3 stitches and stop with the needle down.
• Raise the foot, insert the cord under the foot from the right, against the needle.
• Pull the cord up through the center slot of the foot and hold it against the left side of the guide.
• Continue stitching - the cord will feed into the zigzag stitch.
• Trim the excess fabric from the wrong side.
• Mount the sample.
Note: Cord can be a variety of types - pearl rayon works well.
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DESIGNER HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 6” x 4”
Pearl Crown Rayon cord
80/12 Sharp
All-purpose sewing thread
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
•
•
•
•
•
•
Select Straight Stitch #1.
Select the left needle position.
Turn the raw edge under 3/8” and press.
Stitch with the fold against the left side of the guide on the presser foot.
Trim away seam allowance as close to stitching as you can get.
Turn the first folded edge under again tightly and place the new fold against the left side
of the guide on the foot.
• Stitch again from the wrong side of the fabric as in the first step.
• A successful hem will have two parallel lines of stitching on the wrong side of
the hem and one showing on the right side.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This is a very narrow two-step hem, easily sewn on straight or bias grains.
Works great on sheer farbric.
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ATTACHING ELASTIC LACE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Nylon tricot, 6” x 4”
9” of elastic lace
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Select the Running stitch #4.
Adjust stitch length to 1mm.
Engage the needle down function.
Position the elastic wrong side down on the right side of the tricot along one of the 6” edges.
Leave a tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”.
Position the elastic so the stitching is at the bottom edge of the elastic lace.
Stretch the elastic lace gently, as it is being sewn.
After stitching, trim the surplus tricot from the wrong side of the elastic lace, close to the
stitching.
• Mount the sample.
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TURNED UNDER ELASTIC
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lycra - cotton or nylont, 6” x 5”
9” of cotton swimwear elastic, ½” wide
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
•
•
•
•
Select the ZigZag stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL 2mm.
Position the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric, along one 6” edge.
Allow a 2” tail of elastic to extend beyond the fabric.
Using the tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”, stretch the elastic
a bit to simulate the leg of an exercise leotard or swimsuit.
Note: This is the same procedure used to do a turned waistband, using wider elastic.
• Sew the elastic to the fabric keeping the edge of the elastic and the edge of the fabric together.
• If stopping midway, use the Needle Down function to hold the elastic and fabric in place.
• Fold the elastic to the wrong side and overstitch the elastic from the right side using Running
Stitch #4 with a length of 1mm.
• Adjust presser foot pressure and/or stitch length if elastic stretches out as it is sewn.
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WISH LIST
On The Edge
Presser Feet:
Edgestitch Foot #10
Embroidery Foot #6
Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B
Button Sew-on Foot #18
Feet-ures
Gimp or Pearl Crown Rayon
Stitch Witchery - roll
Water-soluable stabilizer
Buttonhole Space Tape
Buttonhole Placement Gauge - Simpflex ruler
½” Drafting Tape
Marking Pens/Pencils
Applique Scissors - for grading seams
Height Compensation Tool
Seam Sealent
Glue Stick
Buttonhole Cutter and Block Set
Double Needles
Cotton elastics
Accessory Box
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MASTERING YOUR
®
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activa 125/135 PE/145
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section D
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
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SECTION D
GATHER IT UP AND TUCK IT DOWN
Gathering
• Gathering With A Basting Stitch
- Lengthen stitch all the way
- Tighten top tension for easier removal
• Gathering Over A Single Cord
- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit B
- Embroidery Foot #6 with stitch #2
• Gathering Over Two Cords
- Buttonhole Foot #3 with Gathering Stitch
- Can use elastic thread for shirring
• Elastic Thread In Bobbin Case
- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit H
- Use Black Latch bobbin case
• Narrow Casing Elastic
- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit A
- Open Embroidery Foot #20 with stitch #2
• Gathering Foot #16
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit D
- gathering a single layer
- gathering to a flat piece
- short stitch length for easing
• Ruffler Attachment
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit J
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Tucks
• Pintuck Feet and Double Needles
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit F
- which feet go with which needle
- how to thread a double needle
- how to use grooves in feet
• Corded Pintucks
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit A
- straight tucks
- gimp hole
- turning corners
• Pleats vs Tucks
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit C
- Edgestitch Foot #10
- Reverse Pattern Foot #1
• Large Tucks and Pleats
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit D
- Quilting/Seam Guide
- Zipper Foot with Guide #14
- Guide Bars with Rulers
• Decorative Tucks
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit F
- sewn with decorative stitches vs straight
- corded edges
- lace inserted
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GATHERING WITH A BASTING STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Reverse Pattern #1
135 PE and 145:
• Trim all 4 edges of fabric piece with a wavy rotary cutter.
• Use all-purpose sewing thread top and bottom.
• Select the Basting Stitch (#14 on the 135 PE and #15 on the 145).
• Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge.
• Tie the threads at the beginning to secure and gather the sample up to 6”.
125:
• Select Straight Stitch #1; adjust the length to 5mm
• Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge.
• Tie the threads at the beginning to secure and gather the sample up to 6”.
Notes:
- Use a fine darning thread; it is easier to remove after a seam has been sewn.
- To secure basting stitches, sew a few normal length straight stitches at the beginning
and end of the seam.
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GATHERING OVER A SINGLE CORD
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
18” of cord
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Embroidery Foot #6 (optional accessory)
Trim all four edges of sample fabric before beginning.
Thread the cord through the hole in Foot #6, leaving a 2”-3” tail behind the foot.
Select stitch #2 - SW 2.5mm and SL 2-2.5mm.
Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge.
Sew over the cord.
Secure the cord at the beginning and then pull it to gather the sample to 6”.
Notes:
- Gathering over cord adds additional strength, eliminates thread breakage and allows better
control of gathering.
- Drop the feed dog and sew a bartack at the beginning and end of cord for strength.
- Do not sew through cording.
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GATHERING OVER TWO CORDS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
30” of cording
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 (optional)
Trim all 4 edges of the fabric piece with a wavy rotary cutter.
Place the fabric under the foot and lower the needle but not the foot.
Select the Gathering Stitch (#12 on the 125 and #18 on the 135 PE and the 145).
Fold cord in half and loop around the middle toe of foot #3; lower it.
Lift cord loop from toe and pull cord forward leaving 3” tails behind the foot.
Begin to sew, allowing the two grooves of the buttonhole foot to guide the cord.
Sew along one 12” edge - 5/8” from the edge.
Pull on both cords to gather the sample to 6”.
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ELASTIC THREAD IN THE BOBBIN
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Other:
Rayon Challis - 12” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Elastic thread (bobbin)
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Black Latch Bobbin Case
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.
A Black Latch bobbin case is suggested.
Wind elastic thread on the bobbin.
Place in bobbincase and adjust tension if necessary.
All-purpose sewing thread is used in the needle.
Select stitch #1 - SL 4mm to 5mm - center needle position - upper tension 7-9.
Draw guidelines on the fabric, spacing them evenly apart.
Sew from the right side of the fabric.
Keep rows flat as sewing.
When finished, steam press the sample, holding the iron over the fabric with the elastic
side up. Do not touch the iron to the fabric.
• Leave the fabric flat until dry.
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NARROW CASING ELASTIC
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 9” x 4”
12” of 1/8” or ¼” cotton elastic
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
• Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.
• Measure and mark the elastic for amount needed. Allow a 2” tail at both ends.
• Draw a line on the wrong side of the fabric where the elastic is to go (this could be the line on a
pattern where a casing is suggested).
• Place the elastic over the line and under the foot and needle - sew a few straight stitches backward
and forward to secure the elastic.
• Select ZigZag Stitch #2; adjust width to clear the elastic.
• Stretch the elastic gently to give the fullness desired.
• When you reach the other end, secure in the same manner as the beginning.
• Even out the gathers.
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GATHERING FOOT #16
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 10” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Wide Gathering Foot #16 (optional accessory)
Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.
Select stitch #1 - lengthen to 5mm.
Place fabric to be gathered under the foot.
Guide the fabric, keeping the raw edges even with the right edge of the foot, or use the seam
lines on the throat plate.
Notes:
- There are three things that effect the amount of gathers:
1. Fabric Weight - The lighter weight the fabric, the easier to gather.
2. Tension - Increased upper tension will increase the amount of gathering.
3. Stitch Length - The longer the stitch length, the tighter the gathers.
- Use the basting stitch (135 PE/145 only) to increase gathers in heavier weight fabrics
such as woolens and corduroys.
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RUFFLER
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Ruffler Attachment #86 (optional accessory)
•
•
•
•
•
Trim fabric with wavy rotary cutter before sewing.
Select stitch #1 - SL 1mm-5mm. The longer the stitch length, the deeper the pleat.
Needle position is center.
Set the adjustmin lever on the attachment at 1.
Place the fabric to be ruffled between the two blades, snugging it against the edge of the
seam guide slot, making sure it is slightly beyond the needle.
• Lower the foot and begin sewing.
• If gathers are too deep, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise; if too shallow, turn the
screw clockwise.
Note: Loosening the needle tension to 3-4 will allow some subsequent
adjustment of the fullness.
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PINTUCKS AND DOUBLE NEEDLES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”, starched
Double (size should correspond to foot)
All-purpose sewing
Pintuck Foot #30, #31, #32, or #33 (optional accessories)
• Select the desired presser foot and corresponding double needle:
- Pintuck Foot #30 - 3 groove - 4mm needle
- Pintuck Foot #31 - 5 groove - 3mm needle
- Pintuck Foot #32 - 7 groove - 2mm needle
- Pintuck Foot #33 - 9 groove - 1.6 needle
• Insert the double needle and thread with two different colors.
• Select the straight stitch #1 - SL 1.75mm-2mm.
• Sew at a slower speed and test the movement of the needle. You want to be sure it doesn’t hit the
presser foot.
• Top tension can be tightened to create more dimension.
• Start sewing in one corner and meander across the fabric.
• Position the previously sewn tuck in the groove of the foot and sew 6 more rows evenly spaced
across the fabric, as desired.
• Trim, press and mount the sample.
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CORDED PINTUCKS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight cotton, 5” x 5”, starched
Gimp Cord
Double 3.0/80
All-purpose sewing
5 Groove Pintuck Foot #31 (optional accessory)
• Thread the cord through the hole in the needle plate.
Note: Cord should be colorfast and shrinkproof.
• Thread machine - same thread in both needles and the bobbin.
• Sew four random corners.
Turning Corners:
- When turning a corner it is not possible, with a double needle, to turn
completely in one operation.
- Sew to corner; needle in fabric, drop feed dogs.
- Turn ½ way, make 1 stitch, place needles in fabric, turn remainder of corner.
- Raise feed dogs and continue.
• Sew 2 points as on a leaf or star.
Turning Points
- Sew to corner; needle up.
- Pivot work carefully and lower needles back into same place; needles
have changed sides.
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PLEATS vs TUCKS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 8” x 5”
80/12 Universal
All-Purpose
Reverse Pattern #1
Edgestitch #10 (optional accessory)
Reverse Pattern Foot #1:
• Starting at the left edge and working across the 8” width, draw 4 lines for folding and
pressing. The first 2 lines are 2” apart, second 2 lines are 1¼” apart.
Note: By placing the fold even with the right edge of the foot and placing the needle
position all the way to the left to start, it is possible to get 9 different sizes pleats/tucks.
• Using Straight Stitch #1, sew the first tuck, on the first line, with needle position all the way
to the left.
• Second tuck, on second line, with needle position all the way to the right.
- Each position makes about a 1mm difference.
Edgestitch Foot #10:
• Place the fold of the third pleat to the left of the center blade - right next to it.
• Move the needle position all the way to the left and sew.
• Position the fold of the last pleat in the same manner. Move the needle position to half left
and sew.
- Very small tucks/pleats are possible with this foot.
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LARGE TUCKS/PLEATS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 10” x 4”
80/12 Embroidery
30 wt. Cotton Embroidery
Zipper Foot with Guide #14 (optional accessory)
Zipper foot #14 has a movable guide with 9 markings which ensure precise sewing of
a variety of different size tucks.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Select stitch #1 - SL 2-5mm.
Determine fold line of tuck. Fold on this line and press.
Adjust the guide on the foot for the widest tuck possible.
Place fabric under foot, positioning fold of tuck under the lip of the guide.
Adjust Needle Position to correspond with notch on guide.
Stitch tuck, allowing folded edge of fabric to feed into lip of guide.
The Seam/Quilting Guide that comes with the machine, when attached to the foot, can create
a pleat up to 2¼” wide. Note: A left guide is available; also available is a set of guides with a ruler
attached; they can be used to create pleats up to 4” wide.
• Determine fold line of tuck. Fold on this line and press.
• Attach the guide to the foot and adjust for the widest tuck possible.
• Place fabric under foot, positioning the guide along the fold of the tuck.
• Adjust Needle Position to correspond with notch on guide.
• Stitch tuck, allowing the guide to ride on the folded edge of the fabric.
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DECORATIVE TUCKS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 8” x 4”
80/12 Embroidery
30 wt. Cotton Embroidery,
Metallic, and matching cord
Depends on technique
•
•
•
•
•
Draw 4 lines about ¼” apart, across the width of the fabric.
On the first line - create a tuck, about ¼”, using a decorative stitch.
On the second line - sew a ¼” tuck using a metallic thread with a straight stitch.
Cord the edge of this tuck with a metallic cord as in Section C - Corded Edge.
On the third line create an inverted tuck with lace inserted into it.
- Place the edge of the lace against the drawn line, on the right side, and baste in place.
- Fold the fabric over the lace and press.
- Using Edgestitch Foot #10, place the pressed fold against the left side of the center blade move needle position to the left enough to catch the lace; stitch to the left of the basting line.
- Open out and press again.
• On the fourth line insert the lace with the tuck.
- Fold wrong sides together and press the last tuck.
- Place the edge of the lace in from the fold a scant ¼”.
- Using Foot #37 - the ¼” foot - stitch a tuck, catching the lace as you sew.
- Press the tuck toward the lace.
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WISH LIST
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
Presser Feet and Attachments:
Embroidery Foot #6
Edgestitch Foot #10
Zipper Foot With Guide #14
Wide Gathering Foot #16
Open Embroidery Foot #20
Pintuck Feet
#30 - 3 groove
#31 - 5 groove
#32 - 7 groove
#33 - 9 groove
Patchwork Foot #37
Ruffler Attachment #86
Feet-ures
Double Needles
1.6mm
2.0mm
2.5mm
3.0mm
4.0mm
Guide Bar Set with Rulers
Elastic thread
Gimp cord
Extra Bobbincase
Accessory Box
GooGone
Sewing Iron
Metallic Thread and Cord
Wavy Rotary Cutter
Ruler
Cutting Mat
Spray Sizing
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MASTERING YOUR
®
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activa 125/135 PE/145
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section E
Miscellaneous Magic
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SECTION E
MISCELLANEOUS MAGIC
Zipper Insertion
Owner’s Manual page ____
Feet-ures, Unit B and D - center insertion
Feet-ures, Unit A and F - invisible
Mending Tears and Holes
Owner’s Manual page ____
Feet-ures, Unit C and K
Fringing
Feet-ures, Unit B
Fagoting
Feet-ures, Unit B
Bundling
Feet-ures, Unit B
Lace Insertion
Feet-ures, Unit C
Outline Quilting
Feet-ures, Unit H
Hand Look Quilt Stitch
Feet-ures, Unit A
Triple Needles
Feet-ures, Unit A
Wing Needles and Double Wing Needles
Feet-ures, Unit A
Couching Cord
Feet-ures, Unit E
Bobbinwork Basics
Feet-ures, Units B, E, H
Piping
Feet-ures, Unit C
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CENTERED ZIPPER
Fabric:
Zipper:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Medium weight cotton, 2 pieces, 4” x 8” each
5” or 6” Conventional
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Reverse Pattern Foot #1,
Zipper Foot #4, and
Zipper Foot with Guide #14 (optional accessory)
Attaching the Zipper:
• Using Foot #1 and stitch #1, sew the seam from the bottom
to where the zipper stop will be.
• Lengthen the stitch to the maximum and continue to within
½” from the top of the seam.
• Change back to stitch #1; sew the rest of the way to secure.
• Press the seam open and place the right side of the zipper
against the seam allowance, so the zipper teeth are centered
over the seam.
• Pin or baste (using a temporary spray adhesive) each side of
the zipper to the seam allowance only.
• Change to Zipper Foot #4; adjust the needle position to the
right and to the left as needed to get close to the zipper teeth.
• Sew through the zipper tape and seam allowance only, from
the bottom to the top on each side.
• Pin or baste through all layers.
Topstitching the Zipper:
• Change to Zipper Foot with Guide #14.
Left Side:
• Adjust the seam guide on the foot so it is one groove to the
right of center and change the needle position to far left.
• Sewing from the right side of the fabric and starting at the
bottom, sink the needle into the seam.
• Sew out from the zipper stop about 3/8”, stop, pivot and make
sure the seam guide on the foot is lying in the ditch of the
seam.
• Sew up the left side of the zipper.
Right Side:
• Adjust seam guide on the foot so that it is one groove to the
left of center and change the needle position to far right.
• Repeat the previous steps, starting at the seam and sewing
to the right.
• Press and trim the sample. Mount it, attaching it only at the
top. You can then lift the sample and use it as a reference.
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
Note: The invisible zipper can be used in place of
a conventional zipper when an uninterrupted design
line is desired.
• Mark the seam lines on the right side of fabric.
• Select Straight Stitch #1.
• Refer to the instructions with the zipper for placement
on the fabric.
• Open the zipper and press the coils flat, from the wrong
side, using the synthetic setting on the iron.
• Do not sew the seam first as with conventional zippers.
Zipper tapes are sewn to fabric sections first, then the
seam is sewn.
• With right sides together, baste or pin right zipper tape
to right garment piece, so coil is on the 5/8” seam line.
• Using center needle position, place coil in right groove
of Foot #3. Sew until foot is stopped by the zipper pull.
Note: Needle should sew as close to coils as
possible without actually sewing into them.
• With right sides together, baste or pin left zipper tape to
left garment piece so that the coil is again on the 5/8”
seam line.
• Check to be sure the zipper is not twisted.
• Place the coil in the left groove of the foot and complete
as with the right side.
•To sew seam: Close the zipper. Using Zipper Foot #4,
place the fabric right sides together and stitch as close
to the zipper as possible, starting about ½” above the
bottom of the zipper. Backstitch to begin and sew about
2”; then change to Foot #1 to complete the seam.
• Press and trim the sample. Mount it, attaching it only at
the top. You can then lift the sample and use it as a
reference.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Fabric:
Zipper:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Medium weight cotton, 2 pieces, 4” x 8” each
5” or 6” Invisible
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Reverse Pattern Foot #1,
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3, and
Zipper Foot #4
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MASTERING
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MENDING TEARS AND HOLES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Denim - 4” x 6”
Fusible Knit Interfacing, 2” x 2”
90/14 Universal or Jeans
To suit the fabric
Auto Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A
Reverse pattern Foot #1
and Darning Foot #9
• Make 2 tears in the fabric, about 1” each. Make one hole about ½” round.
Method #1:
Automatic Darning
135 PE and 145:
• Select stitch #13 on the 135 PE and stitch #14 on the 145.
• Use Auto Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A with the feed dog up.
125:
• Select stitch #11.
• Use Reverse patern Foot #1 with the feed dog up.
• Insert the needle into the area at the left of the top of the tear.
• Sew the first vertical row the length of the tear.
• Press the Quick Reverse to program the length; continue stitching and the machine
will finish automatically.
Method #2: Manual Darning
• Bond the fusible knit interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, covering the hole.
• Select stitch #1 and attach Darning Foot #9. Lower the feed dogs.
• Hoop fabric to prevent distortion. Stitch back and forth, then up and down, moving the
hoop without pressure.
Method #1
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Method #2
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FRINGING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Firm fabric - 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
Rayon Embroidery
Tailor Tack Foot #7 (optional accessory)
Embroidery Foot #6 (optional accessory)
•
•
•
•
•
•
Select stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL satin - Tension 1 - Tailor Tack Foot #7.
Put a contrast all-purpose sewing thread in the bobbin.
Turn under ½” seam allowance on both pieces of fabric and press.
Butt the folds together under the center of the presser foot, with right sides up.
Guide fabric while sewing, so needle swings pierce both fabric pieces.
Carefully remove the bobbin thread and gently separate the two fabrics, leaving them joined
by strands of the upper thread.
• Change to Embroidery Foot #6 and select the Blanket Stitch.
• Engage the Mirror Image function, if available and if needed.
• Anchor the fringe to the fabric edge by oversewing it.
• After fringe is secured on one side, the other fabric can be pulled away.
• Trim excess seam allowance from wrong side if needed.
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FAGOTING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Firm fabric - 2 pieces, 3 ”x 5” each
90/14 Embroidery
Embroidery
Tailor Tack Foot #7 (optional accessory)
Open Embroidery Foot #20 (optional accessory)
•
•
•
•
•
Select stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL satin - Tension 1 - Tailor Tack Foot #7.
Place fabrics right sides together; sew with a 5/8” seam on a 5” side.
Sew slowly - adjust motor to ½ speed.
When finished sewing the seam, pull the two layers firmly apart and press open.
Change to Open Embroidery Foot #20 for better visibility - may need to stabilize the stitching
area to prevent tunneling.
• From the right side, anchor the fagoting to the fabric on either side with a decorative stitch
through the seam allowance.
• Trim any excess seam allowance if needed.
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BUNDLING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Firm fabric - 2 pieces, 3” x 5” each
90/14 Embroidery
Embroidery
Tailor Tack Foot #7 (optional accessory)
Open Embroidery #20 (optional accessory)
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
•
•
•
•
•
Select stitch #2 - SW 2mm and SL satin - Tension 1 - Tailor Tack Foot #7.
Place fabrics right sides together; sew with a 5/8” seam on a 5” side.
Sew slowly - adjust motor to ½ speed.
When finished sewing the seam, pull the two layers firmly apart and press open.
Change to Open Embroidery Foot #20 for better visibility - may need to stabilize the stitching
area to prevent tunneling.
• From the right side, anchor the fagoting to the fabric on either side with a decorative stitch
through the seam allowance.
• Trim any excess seam allowance if needed.
• To “bundle” the fagoting stitches into groups: Select the Triple Straight Stitch #6 - change to
Reverse Pattern Foot #1; center the foot over the fagoting stitches and sew down the middle.
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LACE INSERTION
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Lightweight cotton 4” x 6”
9” insertion lace, ½ ”- ¾” wide
75/11 Universal
60 wt. cotton
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
• Pin or baste the lace in position.
First Run:
• Select stitch #1 - SL 1.5mm-2mm with the needle position set at half left.
• Place the edge of the lace to the left edge of the guide on the foot and sew.
• Sew the right side in a like manner using the needle position set at half right.
• From the back, carefully cut through the fabric, in the middle of the two rows of stitching.
• Press the fabric back against the straight stitch.
Second Run:
• Select stitch #2 - SW 1.5mm-2mm and SL 0.75mm-1mm with the needle position set at half left.
• Place edge of lace first to the left of the blade, with the needle in the half left position, and sew the
zigzag stitch over the edge of the lace and the previously sewn straight stitch.
• Sew the right side in a like manner using the needle position set at half right.
• Trim surplus fabric from the wrong side.
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OUTLINE QUILTING
Fabric:
Backing:
Batting:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Cheater block or fabric with large design
1 piece coordinating fabric, same size as fabric
1 piece low-loft, same size as fabric
90/14 Quilting
Cotton embroidery for bobbin
Monofilament for needle
Leather Roller Foot #55 (optional accessory)
• Foot #55 allows for easy maneuvering of curves and tight areas.
• Select stitch #1 - SL 2.5mm-3.5mm - tension is loosened to about 3-4 - needle position is to the left,
depending on the desired look.
• Engage the Needle Stop Down function.
• Sandwich the batting between the top fabric and the backing. Pin or baste in place.
• Bring the bobbin thread to the top of the fabric and select the Securing function to secure the
beginning stitch. Sew; turn the Securing function off. Clip the thread tails.
• Stitch in a continuous line around the outside edge of the design or pattern in the fabric. Move the
fabric in any direction to follow the design.
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HAND LOOK QUILT STITCH
Fabric:
Batting:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
2 pieces solid cotton - 4” x 6” each
1 piece, low-loft - 4” x 6”
90/14 Quilting
Cotton embroidery for bobbin
Monofilament for needle
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual page___
Note: When using the hand Look Quilt Stitch, the cotton embroidery bobbin thread is pulled to the top
of the quilt while the monofilament thread “disappears”, simulating the look of a hand-sewn running
stitch.
•
•
•
•
•
Select the Hand Look Quilt Stitch.
Depending on the fabric you may need to increase the upper tension to 6-9.
Balance can be used to adjust the stitch as needed.
This stitch can be sewn in any needle position.
If monofilament thread breaks, decrease the tension.
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TRIPLE NEEDLE WORK
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firmly woven - 6” x 5”
Firm Tear-away or Cutaway - 6” x 5”
Triple
Embroidery, 3 different colors
Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or
Open Embroidery Foot #20 (optional accessory)
• Thread each needle with a different color thread.
• Select 5 different stitches and sew across the fabric randomly.
• When doing decorative needle work you must sew slowly - change motor to ½ speed.
Note:To be sure the needles will not strike the foot, turn the handwheel to
“walk” the machine through the first stitch. Narrow the width as neede to
avoid breaking needles.
• Trim threads, then trim sample edges, and mount below.
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WINGING IT ONCE
AND
WINGING IT TWICE
Fabric:
Needles:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Broadcloth, 6” x 5”, starched
Wing/120
Double Wing
Embroidery
Reverse Pattern #1 or
Open Embroidery #20 (optional accessory)
Single Wing Needle
• Select Double Overlock Stitch #8.
• Stitch from corner to corner; the holes will open better on the bias.
Note:To be sure the needles will not strike the foot, turn the handwheel to
“walk” the machine through the first stitch. Narrow the width as neede to
avoid breaking needles.
Double Wing Needle
• Use a different color of thread in each needles.
• Select the Blindstitch #7 and sew to the right or left of the single wing needle stitch.
• Select the Honeycomb Stitch (#145 on the 135 PE and #19 on the 145) or the Double Overlock
Stitch #8 (125).
• Sew rows on either side of the last ones.
• Select the Gathering Stitch.
• Sew rows on either side of the last ones.
• Play with other stitches to get different effects.
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COUCHING CORDS
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Firmly woven - 6” x 6”
Firm Tear-away or Cutaway - 2 pieces, 6” x 5” each
90/14 Embroidery
Assorted decorative threads
Assorted decorative cords
Cording Foot #22 - 3 groove (optional accessory) and
Cording Foot #25 - 5 groove (optional accessory)
• Select the thread used according to the look that is desired.
• Load the feet by moving the black latch away from the top of the foot and placing the cords in
the slots. Cords should feed in from the top and go into theg rooves on the bottom of the foot.
Load all cords in the same manner.
• Secure the latch across the top of the foot to hold the cords in place.
• To stabilize the fabric you may need more than one layer of stabilizer.
• Try using different colors of cording in each groove.
• Select stitches of your choice. The Running Stitch #4 (lengthen stitch to 3mm-5mm) with
variegated thread works well.
• Sew in different directions across the fabric.
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BOBBINWORK BASICS
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firmly woven - 6” x 4”
Iron-on, 6” x 4”
90/14 Universal
Pearl Crown Rayon and
Monofilament
Embroidery Foot #6 (optional accessory) or
Open Embroidery Foot #20 (optional accessory)
Blacklatch Bobbincase (optional accessory)
• Press the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the fabric.
• Wind the decorative thread on the bobbin and insert it into the case.
• Thread the needle with monofilament; upper tension may need to be loosened for certain
decorative threads.
• Sew from the wrong side of the fabric for this technique.
• Select stitch #15 on the 125, #22 on the 135 PE or #23 on the 145.
• Sew randomly across the fabric.
Notes: -When using heavier threads the stitch length should be longer.
-Never use the sewing bobbin case when using heavier threads, as it may
cause the tension spring to stretch and affect regular sewing; use a Black Latch
bobbin case
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PIPED PORTIONS
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firmly woven - 6” x 4”
Cotton - 2” x 15”
Cable Cord - 18”
1 piece iron-on
90/14 Universal
All-Purpose
Bulky Overlock #12
• Fabric strips should be cut 1¼” plus the circumference of the cord being used.
Note: Strips should be cut on the bias; however, crosswise and lengthwise
strips may be used if there are no corners to be turned or curves to maneuver.
• Fold the wrong side of the fabric around the filler cord and position it under the presser
foot with the folded edge to the left and the cord under the center of the foot so it rides
in the large groove.
• Select Straight Stitch #1 and with the needle in one of the right positions, begin stitching.
The stitches will be alongside the cord, creating a 5/8” seam.
• Once the piping is made, it is ready to be inserted into a seam.
• Cut the other fabric piece in half, making two 2” x 6” pieces.
• Insert the piping using the same foot.
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WISH LIST
Miscellaneous Magic
Presser Feet and Attachments:
Embroidery Foot #6
Tailor Tack Foot #7
Edgestitch Foot #10
Bulky Overlock Foot #12
Zipper Foot with Guide #14
Open Embroidery Foot #20
Cording Foot #22
Cording Foot #25
Leather Roller Foot #55
Blacklatch Bobbincase
Feet-ures
Spray Stabilizer
Decorative Threads
Metallic
Rayon
Cotton
Monofilament Thread
Smoke
Clear
Spring Hoops for mending
Thread Stand
Blunt Point Scissors for lace
Needles
Single Wing
Double Wing
Triple
Embroidery
Cotton Batting
Fusible Interfacing
Bernina Ironing System
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MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
activa 125/135 PE/145
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section F
Programming Pizzazz
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This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
SECTION F
PROGRAMMING PIZZAZZ
This section is designed to teach how the memory features of the 135 PE/145 work by sewing a
sampler. Programming enables a group of stitches to be selected, altered, manipulated, combined
and stored.
Memory Capacity
Owner’s manual pages ______
• 30 spaces for storage
• Long term - contents remain until they are deleted
Functions
Owner’s manual pages ______
• Motor Speed
• Needle Stop Down
• Pattern End (135 PE/145 only)
• Balance
• Mirror Image (145 only)
Alphabets (145)
Owner’s manual pages ______
• Block letters - upper and lower case
• Numbers and characters
Programming (135 PE/145 only)
Owner’s manual pages ______
• Easy push button method of programming stitches
• Programmed stitches can be viewed on the screen by scrolling through them.
• Programmed stitches can be deleted or overwritten.
Buttonhole Memory (135 PE/145 only)
Owner’s manual pages ______
• Short term memory
• Long term memory
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This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
PROGRAMMING PIZZAZZ
Function Sampler
Specific sewing directions for this sampler are on the following page.
Row #1
Motor Speed
Row #2
Needle Stop Down
Row #3
Pattern End
Row #4
Mirror Image
(145 only)
Row #5
Balance
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This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
PROGRAMMING PIZZAZZ
Function Sampler
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Feet:
Muslin, 6” x 6”
Tear-away as needed
90/14 Universal
30 wt. cotton embroidery
in a contrasting color
Reverse Pattern Foot #1 and
Open Embroidery Foot #20 (optional accessory)
Row #1 - Sewing Speed
• Select Straight Stitch #1; sew down the 9” length of the fabric.
• Change speeds as you sew.
• The activa 125/135 PE/145 have 2 speeds.
• The Clr button does not affect the motor speed.
Row #2 - Needle Stop
• Engage the Needle Down function.
• Sew half way down, stop.
• Sew the rest of the way and stop once more. The machine stops instantly without coasting.
• The Clr button does not affect the needle up/down function.
Row #3 - Pattern End (135 PE/145 only)
• Select stitch #30 on the 135 PE and #50 on the 145.
• Engage Pattern End.
• Using Open Embroidery Foot #20, sew until the machine stops.
• Move the fabric forward about 1”.
• Program 3 of the same stitches into the memory.
• With the Pattern End function still engaged, sew until the machine stops.
Row #4 - Mirror Image (145 only)
• Use Reverse Pattern Foot #1.
• Select stitch #21 on the 145.
• Sew one row across the fabric.
• Engage Mirror Image and sew a second row next to the first.
Row #5 - Balance
• Select stitch #8 - sew about one third the distance using the programmed settings; stop.
• Adjust the “balance” to the opened symbol.
• Sew the next third.
• Adjust the balance symbol to the closed symbol.
• Sew the last third.
Note: Clr does not undo Needle Down, Altered
• Return the “balance” knob to normal.
settings for buttonholes, or Motor Speed
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This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
PROGRAMMING PIZZAZZ
Basic Information for Memory Mania and Sampler
Accessing Memory
Owner’s manual page___
• Press the external MEM button on the front of the machine.
• Memory cursor appears to the left, the number of available spaces blinks and the word MEM appears
on the screen.
Programming
Owner’s manual page___
• Select the stitch desired and the stitch number appears on the screen.
• Touch the MEM+ button and the selected stitch is programmed.
• The number of available spaces appears.
• Continue programming in this way.
• Scroll through the programmed memory using the scroll arrows on either side of the MEM button.
• Altered stitches can be saved in the memory; needle position as well as width and length can be saved.
• Delete all unwanted functions before programming.
Corrections in Memory
Owner’s manual page___
• Programmed stitches can be deleted or overwritten.
• Scroll to the stitch you wish to change or wish to delete.
• Select the stitch you wish to replace it with and press the MEM+ button. The new stitch is saved over the
original one. Or press delete and the stitch is cleared.
Viewing Memory Contents
Owner’s manual page___
• Use the arrows on either side of MEM to scroll thru the memory.
Saving and Leaving Memory
Owner’s manual page___
• To save the contents simply touch the center MEM button. All entries are saved and the memory closes.
• All stored programs can be recalled at any time - even after the machine is turned off.
Memory Capacity
Owner’s manual page___
• The total capacity is 30 spaces (meaning 30 individual stitch patterns).
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BERNINA® activa 125/135 PE/145
This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
MEMORY MANIA
Programming and Editing Practice
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Muslin - 6” x 6” (folded to 3” x 6”)
As needed
90/14 Universal
30 wt. cotton
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Row #1 and #2 (145 only)
• Select the Alphabet button.
• Program “Bernana” and the date in Block letters.
• Select Pattern End 1x and stitch.
• Edit the memory by changing the first “A” to an “I” and stitch.
Row #3
• Open Memory and delete the contents by pressing the “clr/del” button. Keep it depressed and press
the MEM button.
• On the 135 PE - select stitch #24/1x and #22/3x and stitch #24/1x.
• On the 145 - select stitch #42/1x and stitch #23/3x and stitch #42/1x.
• Select Pattern End 1x.
• Sew one group.
Row #4 (145 only)
• Select stitch #49.
• Enter it into the memory 1x
• Engage mirror image and enter it into the memory again 1x.
• Sew a row across the fabric.
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This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
MEMORY SAMPLER
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Muslin - 6” x 6” (folded to 3” x 6”)
As needed
90/14 Universal
30 wt. cotton
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Before stitching this exercise, read the information completely and stitch the Memory Mania exercise from
the previous page.
- Sew out stitches or motifs on muslin first.
- Leave space below and above the center row, where the monogram is.
- Draw guide lines to guide the rows of stitches.
- Sampler can be laid out as below or use your creative license.
- Add or delete rows as needed to create desired look.
Row #1
Use Wing needle
135 PE: Stitch #23
145: Stitch #43
Row #2
135 PE: Stitch #28 1x, #24 3x, #28 1x
145: Stitch #31 1x, #42 3x, #31 1x
Row #3
135 PE: Stitch #24 1x, #30 1x, #24 1x, #30 1x, #24 1x
145: Stitch #47 1x, #50 1x, #47 1x
135 PE
145
Row #4
Use a double needle with a different color of thread
in each needle.
135 PE: Stitch #27
145: Stitch #36
Row #5
Name/date
Row #6 (145 only)
Stitch #50 1x, Mirror Image, #50 1x
Row #7 (145 only)
Stitch #42 1x, Mirror Image, #37 1x
Clear Mirror Image, #37 1x, #42 1x, #1 6x
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This exercise is for the activa 135 PE and 145 only
BUTTONHOLE MEMORY
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 9”
1 piece, 6” x 9”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidert
Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A
Short Term Memory
• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 9”.
• Space the buttonholes evenly across the fabric.
• Select Standard Buttonhole #10 and attach Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A.
• Sew the first bead; stop at the desired length and press the Quick Reverse button.
• The machine will sew the buttonhole and stop automatically.
• The word AUTO appears and the buttonhole has now been programmed in short term memory.
• All buttonholes will now be sewn this programmed size until the machine is turned off or a different
buttonhole is programmed over this one.
• Sew a second buttonhole.
Long Term Memory
• Press MEM+ (after the buttonhole has been programmed).
• Turn the machine off and wait 60 seconds. Turn the machine back on.
• Select Standard Buttonhole #10 and press MEM button.
• Sew a buttonhole on the third line.
Note: In order to clear a saved buttonhole, a new buttonhole length must be
programmed over the previous one.
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WISH LIST
Programming Pizzazz
Feet-ures
Chalk Wheel
Large Ruler - clear
Decorative Thread
Rayon___
Cotton___
Metallic___
Sewers Aid
Interfacing
Fusible Tricot__
Fusible Woven__
Needles
Embroidery__
Metallic__
Buttonhole Space Tape
Buttonhole Placement Gauge - Simpflex Ruler
Fabric Marking Pen
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