55039
I N.S
T
R U C
T
! O
N S
MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750
ZlG-ZAG
SEWING
MACHINE
P/N
55039
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
Adjusting for Good Stitches .....................
38
Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot .............
10
Adjusting Tensions ...........................
t2 _ 13
Applique ..............................................
26
Basting ................................................
Biind Stitching ......................................
Buttonholes ....................................
11
t9
20 - 25
Changing the Presser Foot .......................
15
Cleaning and Oiling ...........................
31 - 33
Connecting Machine ...............................
4
Darning ...............................................
Decorative Stitching ...............................
Double Needle .................................
18
17
28 - 29
Fastening a Seam ..................................
Feed Dog Control ...................................
15
!5
Identification- Head Parts ......................
2 -3
Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case .............
8
inserting Pattern Disc ..............................
16
Inserting and Removing Material ................
Installing Machine Head ..........................
14
4
Needle and Thread Table ......... '. ...............
Needle Size ..........................................
5
5
Overcasting
...................
'.......................
27
Parts List ........................................
36 - 37
Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................
10
Placement of Needle ...............................
5
Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle ..........
Reverse Stitching ...................................
Replacement of Belt ...............................
6
11
31
Setting Stitch Length .............................
Setting Stitch Width ...............................
Sewing Light .........................................
Sewing on Buttons .................................
Sewing on Lace .....................................
Sewing on Plastic Films ...........................
Sewing on Stretch Fabrics .......................
Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc ..............
Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ...............
Synthetics ............................................
11
16
4
19
26
30
27
16
26
30
Threading Upper Machine ........................
Turning a Corner ....................................
9
15
What to Do .....................................
Winding the Bobbin ................................
Writing
and Monogramming
.............
34 - 35
7
, ....... 27
FRONT
VIEW
®
o
o
@
o
®
®
O
1.
Hand Hole Cover Plate
7.
Thread Guide
12.
Stitch
Width
Control
Knob
2.
3,
4.
5,
Feed Dog
Presser Foot
Presser Foot Thumb Screw
Thread Guides
8.
Face Cover
Plate
13.
Stitch
Length
Control
Lever
9.
10.
Thread Take.up
Arm Cover Plate
14.
Light
Switch
15.
Fead
Dog
6.
Thread Tension
11.
Bobbin Winder
t6.
Nomenclature
Assembly
Mechanism
Control
Plate
Knob
BACK
VIEW
¢
17.
Ho_d
_,.
Clutch
39
_u_tonhole
20.
Wheel
Knob.
22.
Bobbi_
W,_der
Tension
R_verse Stitch
{.ength Control
_'3.
Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b
Upper Thread Spool_ Pros
24.
Upper Thread G_es
_5,
Presser Foot L_v_r
26.
Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew
27.
Threod Cutte_
28,
Needle
Plato
INSTALLING
MACHINE
HEADIN PORTABLE
ANDCABINET
Loosen
the
edge
of
cabinet
the
machine
cutout
_2_.
two
hinge
screws
bed
Sllp
and
tighten
hinge
screws
Lower
machine
head
to
Screw
spool
pins
the
spool
pins.
accessory
box.
O
under
holes
in
the
rear
11_.
Raise
hinge
pins
in the
machine
head
onto
the
pins
securely
front
flap.
_3
.
in place.
Lay the
plastic
discs
over
Discs
and
pins
are
packed
in the
SEWING
LIGHT
O
O
The
sewing
light
is located
inside
the face
cover
plate
as
shown.
It may
be
turned
on or
off
by pushing
the
light
switch.
In order
to
operate
the
machine
the
switch
must
he on.
To remove
cover
plate
turn
bulb
bulb,
turn
by swinging
clockwise,
replace,
push
See
illustration
in new
4.
light
it
and
bulb
switch
open,
remove
and
turn
off,
open
the
face
push
bulb
in slightly,
from
socket.
To
counter
clockwise.
CONNECTING
MACHINE
Push
bed
wall
the plug
onto
three-prong
plate.
Plug
machine
cord
outlet.
See
illustration
5.
connector
into
any
under
110-120V
the
NEEDLE
ANDTHREAD
TABLE
THREAD
Cotton
SIZE
NEEDLE
SiZE
Sheer
cottons,
s_JkL
and
synthetics
11
A
Cotton
FABRIC
60-100
Synthetic
Silk
PLACEMENT
OFNEEDLE
i
60-80
Fine
Raise
needle
bar
to its highest
sition
by
turning
hand
toward
you.
screw+
laces
side
Medium
weight
cottons
Medium
weight
Silks
needle
Synthetic
Medium
weight
synthetics
needle
Si_k
Light
Mercerized
50
14
A
Cotton
40.60
Heavy
Mercerized
50
Mercerized
heavy
duty
heavy
duty
Cotton
weight
16
weight
Medium
Heavy
30-50
woolens
needle
cottons
:_o heavy
drapery
weight
woolens
fabrics
Heaviest
cottons
as for
Heaviest
woolen
coating
men's
work
c|othes
18
Mercerized
NEEDLE
SIZE
Use KENMORE
conform
to the
to the material.
bobbin
as on
sewing.
Never
6021
needles.
The size of the needle
should
size of the thread
and
both should
be suitable
The same
size thread
should
be used in the
the
upper
part
of the
machine
for
ordinary
use a bent needle
nor one with a blunt
point.
This
I
I
.+
_
+
II
)
I|/
!
ii
is
the
exact
length
of
the
needle
be used in your machine.
Comparison
this illustration
will determine
whether
needle
your
you
mach_.
have
is the
correct
one
to
with
the
for
Loosen
Hold
away
the
clamp,
clamp
wheel
needle
clamp
needle
with
If|at
you.
Sllp
the
as it will
go into
the
from
as far
po-
and
screw.
tighten
the
+
-I
REMOVING
BOBBIN
CASEFROM
SHUTTLE
Needle
at
its highest
position.
Pull
out
latch.
Pull
bobbin
straight
case
out.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
0
0
Place
post.
thread
Draw
on spool
/"-__
thread
as _/_11_-_:,--_
_
..... .....
Release
clutch
by
turning
clutch
knob
toward
you.
Start
machine.
0
Wind
bobbin
0
thread
a few
around
times.
When
bobbin
winding
is
full,
mechanism
stops.
0
bobbin
bobbin
winder
latch
,_-, ki.:::
0
Place
Push
,%,.
bobbin
until
onto
shaft.
winder
it clicks.
Tighten
and
clutch
remove
knob
bobbin.
.......................
ii!i:
_6_
_..... _i¸i¸
INSERTING
BOBBIN
INTOBOBBIN
CASE
.........
CASEINTOSHUTTLE
Guide
bobbin
center
slot.
Pull
thread
through
Pull
thread
under
Holding
0
onto
[atch,
0
tension
position
pin
of bobbin
spring.
case
into
0
• /
case.
shuttle,
\
release
latch.
0
THREADING
UPPER
MACHINE
Place
thread
as illustrated
between
discs of
the Thread
Tension
Assembly.
Prevent
the
spool of thread
from turning
and by holding
the end ol the thread
pull spring
wire
loop
up and pa_t the top hook
until
the
thread
can be slipped
nto the hook.
When
thread
tension
is released,
the spring
wire loop will
return
to pos_t_on
as shown
with the thread
in proper
place.
Release
spool of thread
and
continue
to th'ead
machine
as illustrated.
PICKING
UP BOBBIN
THREAD
Raise
Hold
hand
_Di YI
YiL::)]
in left
complete
Bring bobbin
thread
up by pulling
See illustration.
Place threads
back under
presser
.............
_]i
i
presser
foot lever.
needle
thread
loosely
wheel
toward
you one
band
and
turn.
upper
rotate
thread.
foot.
ii_,__
ADJUSTING
THEPRESSURE
OFTHEPRESSER
FOOTPush
down
outer
ring
of
presser
foot
knob
illustration).
This
will release
pressure
foot.
To increase
pressure,
push
down
until suitable
pressure
is obtained.
For
ordinary
sewing,
the
inner
pin
should
half way down.
When
sewing
multiple
heavy
material,
reduce
the
pressure,
when
sewing
sheer
fabrics.
Insufficient
pressure
difficulty
in guiding
foot marks
appear
I0
may
cause
skipped
See
of presser
inner
pin
be
about
thickness
increase
or
it
stitches
or
the fabric,
if feed dog or presser
on the fabric,
reduce
the pressure.
V
SETTING
STITCHLENGTH
The stitch
length
lever controls
the stitch length.
Set lever to any desired
stitch
length
position
between
0 and 4 by turning
knob until the indicator
is aligned
with
the stitch
length
number
desired.
The red mark
indicates
the setting
for
a satin
stitch.
This
will vary
slightly
depending
upon the type of material
to be sewn.
At No.
4 the
longest
stitch
is obtained.
The size of stitch
you select
will depend
on
fabric
you are sewing.
Straight
stitching
is done with
stitch width
control
on 0 setting
and by removal
of pattern
disc.
REVERSE
STITCHING
Raise
lever for
is best to begin
back tacking.
reverse
stitching.
Lower
lever for
and end most
seams
with
reverse
forward
stitching
stitching.
It
often
called
BASTING
For accomplishing
quicker,
more
even and firmer
basting,
we suggest
you
regulate
the maciline
in the following
manner;
Set stitch
length
at No. 4
for the longest
possible
stitch.
Machine
should
be threaded
in normal
manner
except
bypassing
the check
spring
as illustrated.
Basting
is
easily
removed
by pulling
bottom
thread.
When
basting
very sheer
fabrics,
use a paper
backing.
If
you
pins.
of the
foot.
prefer
Be
pin
sure
away
to
use
to
keep
from
pins
for
basting,
the
pins
the
presser
at
your
right
foot.
KENMORE
angles
Also
to the
reduce
will
sew
seam
pressure
and
over
the
the
head
on
presser
11
ADJUSTING
TENSIONS
O
A perfect
two
layers
stitch
will
of fabric
have
threads
with
no
loops
locked
on top
between
or
(Refer to page 38)
Fig.
1
PROBLEM
0
Fig.
Upper
Upper
12
too
tight
Decrease
Tension
Increase
Tension
2
O
Fig.
thread
REMEDY
3
thread
too
loose
the
bottom.
[
INCREASE
TENSION
Whenstitchingis
figures
thread
2 and
tension.
requires
than
1
as
upper
tension
adjustment
the
When
unsatisfactory
3,
adjust
the
Lower
thread
upper
stitch
and
less
thread
is
cause
may
be
upper
and
lower
frequently
tension.
is satisfactory,
seam
in
badly
tight
as in figure
puckered,
tensions
may
Turn
J
Clockwise.
the
and
both
be adjusted.
J
When
adjusting
bobbin
case,
with
It
tension
slight
a screwdriver.
is
necessary
thread
tension
decorative
width
be
the
make
to
reduce
somewhat
decreased.
increased,
the
DECREASE
TENSION
ISee page 38)
stitching.
is
on
adjustments
the
upper
when
doing
As
the
tension
the
i
stitch
should
Turn
Counter
Clockwise,
13
INSERTING
ANDREMOVING
THEMATERIAL
For all kinds
5.
of sewing,
Before
placing
see that :
the
* The presser
foot
are both tight.
.The
kind
sizes
of
of work
tensions
material
and
needle
take-up
have
been
feed
, Stitch
desired
Experiment
dog
at their
adjusted.
width
sewing
To remove
the work,
first turn
hand
wheel
toward
you
until
needle
is at its highest
position,
then
raise
the presser
foot,
draw
material
to the rear and cut off excess
thread
with the thread
cutter
located
on the presser
bar.
been drawn
the machine.
IMPORTANT:
controls
on
used to determine
tension
correct
stitch
settings.
14
the
is up,
length
and
settings.
by
suit
are
properly
Place
material
under the presser
foot, insert
the needle
into the material
by turning
the
hand wheel
toward
you, lower
presser
foot
and start
sewing.
To facilitate
placement
of
heavy
fabrics
under
the presser
foot,
the
presser
foot lever can be raised
beyond
the
normal
"up"
position.
screws
thread
lever
page
machine
clamp
* The ends of the threads
have
about
4 inches
to the rear of
*The
chart
on the
needle
and
to be done.
, The needle
and
highest
position.
* The
consult
the
are
fabric
adjustments
set
at
to
be
and
Always
turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you!
When
machine
is not
being
used,
place a piece of material
over the feed
dog
and lower
the
presser
foot.
Always
have
fabric
under
the
presser
foot
when
operating
the machine.
Operating
threaded
machine
without
fabric
will cause
it to jam
by forcing
thread
into the shuttle.
See pages
32 and 33,
CHANGING
THEPRESSER
FOOT
The various
attachment
feet
to be fastened
to the presser
available
bar.
for
certain
kinds
of work
are
To attach
the foot,
raise
the presser
bar to its highest
position
by
raising
the presser
foot lever.
Loosen
the presser
foot thumb screw,
choose
the proper
foot,
insert
from
the front.
Tighten
the screw
using the large
screw
driver
and make sure that the foot is secure.
kl
N
TURNING
A CORNER
Stop
Turn
sewing
fabric.
machine
Lower
with
presser
needle
in fabric.
foot and continue
Raise
presser
stitching.
foot.
FASTENING
A SEAM
iI
j
Be sure
both
threads
are
drawn
back
under
the presser
foot.
Lower
needle
into
fabric
about
½ inch
from
beginning
of seam.
Push stitch
length
control
lever
up for reverse
stitching.
Stitch
in
reverse
until needle
reaches
beginning
of seam.
Move
stitch
length
control
lever
down
for forward
stitching
and
complete
seam.
When you reach
the end,
raise
the
stitch
length
control
lever and sew back over ½ inch of completed
seam.
FEEDDOGCONTROL
The feed dog control
knob
is situated
on the right
front
of machine
bedplate.
When
knob
is turned
to the
left,
feed
dog drops
and
does not: pull material.
This allows
the operator
freedom
of movement of material,
as for darning.
For regular
sewing,
turn knob to
the right, "U"
_Feed
dog up).
15
ZIGZAGCONTROL
SETTING
STITCH
WIDTH
lnsert
between
disc
_1.
0 and
! to 4, Straight
or by removal
When
not
sewing
be
4
Turn
the
stitch
on the
knob,
of
stitching
pattern
with
advanced
width
Zigzag
is possible
dis_:.
the
double
beyond
2_,
knob
stitch
to the
width
desired
increases
only
with
control
the
stitch
width
needte
on
setting
from
0 setting,,
control
must
setting,
INSERTING
PATTERN
DISC
i.
2.
Turn
Pull
3.
Grasp
pattern
disc
and
slip
disc
onto
the
shaft.
Make
sure
the
retaining
pin
,_g enters
hole
in disc,
To start
a pattern
at the
beginning,
align
the
engraved
dot
on
the
disc
with
the
cam
follower
_.
To do this.
slip
the disc
onto
the
shaft
so
the
engraved
dot
is at or as
near
(countercloek.
wise)
the
cam
follower
as possible,
If the
engraved
dot
is not
aligned
until
handwheel
pattern
disc
the
with
dot
so that
the
shaft
cover
the
cam
is aligned,
place
a scrap
To remove
pattern
from
shaft.
of
fabric
disc.
needle
open,
lollower,
i_|f
the
under
tollow
the
steps
is
in
turn
the
machine
its
highest
position,
hand
wheel
is threaded,
presser
1 and
foot_.
2, grasp
toward
you
be sure
to
disc
and
pull
discs,
discs,
discs
the
SEWING
WITHREVERSE
PATTERN
DISC
Your
machine
numbers
21,
stitch
control
required
an extra
provided
23 and
24.
length
control
_; should
be
Depending
adjusting.
16
is
22,
upon
Turn
to obtain
piece
o[
the
the
the
fabric
with
four
reverse
When
using
these
should
in
the
be set
upright
type
of
control
patterns
to be
fabric
slightly
at
4.
The
position
pattern
pattern
reverse
for
most
stitch
length
materials,
used,
this
control
to the
right
or to
illustrated
used.
on
page
17.
may
need
the
left
as
Practice
on
>
i
>>
!
€
I
1
=
2
6
7
8
9
21
10
22
23
t
24
J
DECORATIVE
STITCHING
This
machine
supplied
with
stitches
indicator
may
See
enables
your
you
machine,
are
made
with
plate.
Stitch
be changed
page
25.
by
When
using
using
to
sew
beautiful
The
movements
the satin
stitch
length
will
vary
any
the
other
disc
decorative
of the
fo0St, stitch
width
slightly
depending
lengt h
numbers
or width,
2].
22,
Disc
number
21 also
makes
the
stretch
stitch
when
on Stretch
Fabrics,
See
page
27.
It is necessary
to reduce
the upper
thread
tension
is increased,
prevent
the
the
tension
should
bobbin
thread
from
and
needle
be decreased,
coming
up
on
23
it
embroidery
stitches
are
controlled
by
at
4 and
stitch
upon
the
type
All
patterns
and
24,
the
is
somewhat
This
will
the top
of
[
used
as
[or
prevent
the
fabric.
also
stitch
directed
decorative
the
by
the
means
disc.
length
at
of material
can
be
length
in
the
to
made
control
the
red
mark
be sewn.
with
double
should
be
instructions
stitching.
material
of various
discs
Basic
decorative
from
As
for
the
puckering
on
the
Pattern
needle.
set at 4,
Sewing
stitch
width
and
will
17
DARNING
WITHPRESSER
FOOT:
1.
Turn
2.
Press
down
outer
ring of
in this position,
mending,
feed
dog
control
to left.
3.
Stretch
fabric
tightly
4.
Lower
presser
bar
presser
darning,
between
so
foot knob,
monogram
two
thread
spring
will
darning
5.
stitches.
When you
for general
dog control
Fast
movement
finish
darning,
raise
sewing
by pressing
to right.
embroidery
have
move
fabric
back and forth
to cover
sewing
at right angles
to the previous
can make
any length
stitches
desired.
see page
10.
With presser
work,
etc. may be done.
some
hoops
tension.
and
When
place
you
foot
under
start
knob
needle.
to
darn,
darning
area.
Then
turn
fabric
and continue
stitching.
Use medium
machine
speed.
You
Slow
movement
of fabric
will make
short
will
make
long
stitches.
presser
foot and remove
fabric.
Increase
down
inner pin of the presser
foot knob,
pressure
Turn feed
WITHOUT
PRESSER
FOOT:
1.
Turn
2.
Remove
Proceed
3.
dog
control
to left.
presser
foot.
as directed
under
When you finish
darning,
presser
foot, and increase
right.
18
feed
steps
3 and
raise
the
pressure
4 above.
presser
foot
lever
for general
sewing.
and remove
Turn feed
fabric,
Replace
dog control
to
SEWING
ONBUTTONSu.. d,.o
Align
two holes
of button
with
slot of presser
foot
and
lower
foot to hold
securely.
Drop
feed
dog.
Turn hand
wheel
by hand
until
needle
point
is just
above
button.
Adjust
stitch
width
so that needle
will
align
with a hole of button.
Turn hand
wheel
again
by hand so that needle goes into second
hole,
readjust
stitch
width
if necessary.
Stitch a number
of times,
turning
hand wheel
manually.
Finish
sewing
with an
extra 2 inches
of thread,
draw thread
to reverse
side
and tie securely.
li using
a 4 hole
button
repeat
the
above
procedure.
@
NOTE:
To make a small
thread
shank
when
sewing
on a flat button,
place a straight
pin or needle
between
the holes
of the button.
O
BLINDSTITCHING
Disc _ 2
Stilch
Stitch
O
width 2 _May
length 3
vQry depending
with
a turned
of materiol]
1.
Prepare
the
[inlsh,
or
2.
Apply
seam tape
straight
or zigzag
3.
Turn hem and baste about
_ inch from
the edge
of the seam tape using longest
stitch
on the sewing
machine.
4.
Fold
along
5.
Remove
basting
and press
hem.
may
be eliminated
in a straight
garment
garment
hem
on type
along
the
stltching.
and
raw
edge
back
along
basting
fold using disc _ 2.
llne
The
hem.
edgestitched
with
and
basting
either
stitch
step
19
Use
BUTTONHOLES
(Models 68, 95, 1600,
1650, t651, 1652)
disc
_: I
and
special
buttonhole
_oot
Stitch
tength
at red mark
Buttonho[e
control
knob F
Feed
dog
cantrol
U
Place the fabric, with the buttonhole
length marked
at both ends, under
the buttonhole
foot.
Without lowering the foot, let the needle pierce the
fabric at the beginning
of the buttonhole.
Set the foot so the beginning
of the red zone _closest to the needle_
is at the mark of the opposite
end of the buttonhole.
Lower the foot.
Stitch
forward
until the needle
reaches
the red zone on the front
edge of
foot,
Then turn the knob to R, and stitch
the other
side of the buttonhole.
Turn knob back to F to finish end of buttonhole.
The speed
with
which
the knob is turned
determines
the number
of stitches
at the ends
of the buttonhole.
The slower
the
knob
is turned,
while
sewing,
the
more stitches
are formed.
See page 21.
Reproduction
of identical
size buttonholes
is facilitated
with
the aid of
the graduations
on the left side of the buttonhole
foot.
These graduations
are 1/8 inch apart.
Just mark
the starting
points
of the buttonholes,
let
the needle
pierce
the fabric
and set the index
mark CA_ on the upper
portion
of the foot at the same
graduation
mark
CB_ as it was set for the
first buttonholeo
Lower
the foot,
Follow
the procedures
outlined
above.
Always
make
a practice
garment,
using
a double
in garment.
buttonhole
thickness
on a scrap
of fabric
used
of fabric,
and an interfacing
in the
if used
The stitch
length
may
be varied
slightly
by the stitch
length
control
lever
within
the 0 to 1 range.
To increase
forward
stitch
move
this
lever
from
the red mark
toward
1, to decrease
move
it toward
the 0.
The buttonhole
reverse
stitch
length
control
_C_) is used to match
the
length
of the reverse
stitches
with the forward
stitches.
Turn the dial
to the minus
direction
for shorter
stitches;
to the
plus
direction
for
longer
stitches.
These
settings
may vary depending
on the type of fabric
used,
2O
Position
V
1
Step
1
Position
v
V
F
2
Step
2
v
¸
R
_
_••:
A"_
rr/
:a.
<<
<<
<
<<
<<
<<
21
BUTTONHOLES
Use disc _ 1
Stitch
(Models 96, 17501
width
Feed dog control-Lef_
knob- about
1_
@
I!
Covet
plate for butlonholes
0
i,4!_
/-
Remove
and
insert
plate.
,__:/i
regular
Covet"
cover
buttonhole
l_Jo I a
plate
cover
Select
snap
desired
into
guide
template
plate,
and
Pull
guide
plate
all the way
forward
so that guide
pin is
at S.
This will enable
you to
start at one end of the buttonhole.
Screw
guide
plate
on machine
Drop
guide
with template
22
• "
pinion
gear,
guide
into guide
bed.
pin
on
pin hole
plate
into
place
fitting
over the
HINTSFORPERFECT
BUTTONHOLES
O
O
Mark
the
buttonhole
with chalk
ii!__
_:!
position
;: :
facing
of a firm
fabric.
Use
cambric
or
taffeta
between
woolens
and
thread
through
guide plate and draw
toward
back.
Place
threads
material
on
the
guide
presser
foot
Buttonhole
plate.
and
will
start
be
Drop
sewing.
formed.
The buttonhole
size and shape
is not influenced
by the stitch
Length knob
so it may be set
on any
rayons-organdy
or lawn between
and sheer
fabrics,
light
Use
scissors
or
to
cut
buttonhole
buttonhole
up bobbin
each
Loosely
woven
fabrics
and
fabrics
that stretch
easily
such
as jersey
should
have an interi ,_ ;:
Pick
o[
on
the
garment
or a line of basting.
buttonhole
cutter
weight
open.
An occasional
drop of oil on
the oiling
hole
provided
on
the back
of the buttonhole
Always
make
a
practice
buttonhole
on a piece
of the
fabric
to
be
used
in
the
cover
provide
garment.
of
A wider
stitch
width
desirable
fabrics.
on
heavy
plate
wilt
smooth
operation
buttonhole
maker.
your
may
be
weight
position.
23
BUTTONHOLES
(Model
0
t654)
Use disc # 1
Stitch width knob- about 1
0
_[uidepinhol!
_
pinL0__ear
Remove regular cover plate and
insert buttonhole
Feed dog control- Left
Cover plate for buttonhotes
cover plate,
Screw guide pin on guide plate into
guide pin hole on machine
bed.
Select desired size of buttonhole by
turning
disc
as shown
above.
Length of buttonhole
appears in
window on top s{de of guide plate.
Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S.
This will enable you to start at
one end of the buttonhole,
Screw guide pin on guide ptate
into guide pin hole on machine
bed.
Drop guide plate into place with
template fitting over the pinion
gear.
24
HINTS FOR PERFECT
BUTTONHOLES
O
O
Mark
the
position
of each
buttonhole on the garment with
chalk or a line of basting.
Loosely
woven
fabrics
and
fabrics that stretch easily such as
jersey should have an interfacing
of a firm fabric, Use cambric or
taffeta between
woolens and
rayons-organdy or lawn between
light weight and sheer fabrics.
Use
buttonhole
buttonhole
cutter
hole open.
Pick up bobbin thread thraugh
guide plate and draw threads
toward back. Place material on
the guide plate, Drop presser foot
and start sewing, Buttonhole will
be formed.
The buttonhole size
and shape is not influenced by
the stitch tength knob so it may
be set on any position,
An occasional drop of oil on the
oiling hole provided on the back
of the buttonhole cover plate will
provide smooth operation of your
buttonhole
maker,
to
scissors
or
cut button-
Always make a practice buttonhole on a piece of the fabric to
be used in the garment,
A wider
desirable
fabrics.
stitch
on
width
heavy
may be
weight
25
APPLIQUEu_o,,,_:,1
Baste
cutout
4, Set stitch
applique
to fabric,
length
at the red
plate.
Zigzag
stitch
ing the raw edge,
around
Set
mark
applique
stitch
width 2 to
on the indicator
completely
cover-
SEWING
ONLACE uso,_o_1
Set stitch
width
to 2.
Set stitch
length
to 2 or 3.
Place
fabric
under
the presser
foot anti position
lace
inch from edge of fabric,
Position
fabric
and lace
so that
stitching
right stitch catches
left edge of lace,
so that edge of lace is overcast.
Continue
STRAIGHT
ORTHREE-CORNERED
TEAR
U_e disc _ 6
Stitch width 4
Stitch [ength at red mor_
Position
tear
under
needle
and
stitch
along
ght tear catching
sides
of material.
When
three
cornered
tear, stitch
from each end
26
the
strai-
mending
to center.
a
OVERCASTINGu. d_s°
;_
Set stitch
width
to 4.
Set stitch
length
Zigzag stitch
around
raw edge of fabric
cover
the edge.
to about
3.
to completely
f.
WRITING
ANDMONOGRAMMING
U_e
d.: _1
i iill _
Free hand
Stitch width
0 to 4
Feed dog control Left
Draw
initials
or words
fabric
into
embroidery
either
zigzag
or straight
foot.
Set
stitch
width
as desired.
Slip
hoop
lower
presser
bar
and
thread
through
fabric.
along
marked
outline,
hands,
to be
sewn
on fabric
and
fit
hoops.
Writing
is done
with
stitching.
Remove
presser
for
straight
or
zigzag
stitches
and
fabric
under
the
needle.
take
one
stitch
to raise
bobbin
Using
a medium
speed,
stitch
guiding
fabric
carefully
by
!
ii!!!iiiiiiiilZiiiiiiiii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
SEWING
ONSTRETCH
FABRICSu_o_,o_2,
Stitch width 0
Stitch lenglh 4
Use with knitted
fabrics
and stretch
fabrics.
Sew
as
you do straight
stitching.
Machine
will make triple
lock stitches
back and forth.
The seam can be pressed
open without
breaking
thread.
27
DOUBLE
NEEDLE
1. SETTING
THEDOUBLE
NEEDLE
Raise
clamp
the needle
bar to its highest
screw.
Hold double
needle
from
you.
clamp,
and
Slip the
needle
tighten
the screw.
as
position
assembly
far
as
it
and
with
will
loosen
needle
flat side away
go
into
needle
2. THREADING
THEDOUBLE
NEEDLE
Place
a spool
of thread
on
each
through
upper
thread
guides.
of tension
dis_:s of the thread
spool
pin.
Draw
both
Pass a thread
between
tension
assembly.
threading
as you would
for single
double
thread
guides
are provided.
threads
each set
Continue
needle
sewing
except
where
Draw one thread
through
each side of the double
thread
guides
and
from
front
to back.
Pull several
inches
Thread
bobbin
and pick up bobbin
thread
sewing.
through
each needle
of thread
through.
as for single
needle
3. THREAD
SELECTION
When using double
needle
do not
set stitch
width
higher
than 2½ setting.
Use
size
ing.
28
only mercerized
sewing
thread
is recommended
thread
size 50 or finer.
The same
for both upper
and lower
thread-
4. STITCHING
All
decorative
Before
by turning
fabric
stitch
patterns
starting
any
the
without
width
are
possible
stitching
handwheel
with
operation,
double
check
manually.
Needle
touching
presser
foot
control
must
not
be
needle.
needle
drop
should
and needle
advanced
enter
plate.
beyond
The
23
setting.
5. TURNING
A CORNER
To
turn
needle,
the
a
stop
fabric.
turn,
presser
in the
lower
foot
new
square
stitching
Raise
corner
when
with
the longer
the
presser
presser
foot
again,
complete
and
stitching
needle
foot,
take
the
with
tip just
shift
one
turn,
fabric
stitch.
and
begin
a
t
double
piercing
half
Raise
the
the
stitching
direction.
29
SYNTHETICS
Your
KENMORE
will sew all the
new fabrics
of synthetic
fiber,
such
as nylon,
*Orion,
_ _Dacron,
rayon,
acetate,
blends
o| these,
and combinations
of synthetic
and natural
gibers.
When stitching
a
fabric
of hlended
or cnmbined
fibers,
handle
it as you
would
a
material
of the fiber present
in the [arRest
percentage.
For example,
a fabric
woven
of 60% Orlon and 40% silk should
be handled
as one
made entirely
of Orlon.
When stitching
a fabric that is over 50% synthetic
fiber, remember:
a.
_elect
patterns
of the
loose
fitting
type
with
sleeves,
because
most
synthetic
fiber
fabrics
wltil
steam
pressing,
and
are
not
absorbent,
b.
Use
a s_'nthetic
c,
Use
a fine
d.
Wind
the bobbin
in
ween
tension
discs.
bobbin.
e,
Choose
f_
Check
thread
ten,ions
by sewing
on a double
fabric to be used.
Usually
the
upper
thread
loosened.
Sometimes
both bobbin
and
upper
must
be loosened
_pages
12, 13L
the
cap
cannot
or
kimono
eased
he
thread.
needle
stitch
as
recommended
in
chart
the
usual
way,
but
do
Guide
thread
by hand
length
that
gives
the
on
page
5.
not
pass
thread
betfor a smoothly
wound
most
satis|actory
thickness
tension
thread
seam.
of the
must
he
tensions
SEWING
ONPLASTIC
FILMS
Set the
Use
a
together
corners
_Trademark
polyester
3O
machine
with
normal
thread
tensions
fine
needle
and
mercerized
thread.
with
cellophane
tape
or pape_ clips
slightly
rounded
rather
than square,
tot
fiber,
Dupont's
Acrylic
fiber.
and a large size stitch.
Hold
plastic
pieces
rather
than pins.
Sew
_Trademafk
for
Dupont's
REPLACEMENT
OFTHEBELT
Push
motor
against
machine
and
remove
belt
from
motor
pulley.
Let motor
down
gently.
Pull belt out over hand wheel.
Install
new
belt
reversing
the
above
procedure.
CLEANING
ANDOILING
Keep
the
thread
Cleaning
When
moving
machine
noise,
place
machine
oil
A, B, & C.
Swing
points
Fig.
parts
free
from
dust
and
for
quiet
and
efficient
operation.
should
be done with a small brush.
runs
a
at
hard
or makes
drop
of KENMORE
the points
indicated
i
excessive
sewing
in figs.
hinged
face
cover
plate open
to
indicated
at end o{ machine
head.
!
oil
A
3_
t!_
at top of machine
head.
To
_,_: take
disc
out
from
machine,
:_
and
lifft cover.
It
may
1.
be
necessary
to
clean
remove
remove
the
cover
too
shuttle
Raise
the needle
bar to its highest
point and remove
bobbin
ca_,e.
Push levers
sideways
from the shuttle assembly
and lift
shuttle
race
cover
and shuttle
out by the center
pin.
2.
32
plate,
screws
F;o. B
area
occasionally.
3.
Clean
small
brush.
the
shuttle
particles
of
4.
Put
a drop
of
of
the
shuttle
_see
arrows),
race
thread
of
any
with
oil on the
center
and
on
shuttle
lint or
a small
pin
race
To reass_mble,
hold shuttle by center pin
and fit carefully into assembly opposite
the
shuttle driver.
Slip shuttle race cover into
place.
Snap the levers into position.
Occasionally,
remove the needle plate and
clean feed dog with a soft brush.
Shuttle
Race
Cover
Shuttle
Shutlle
Race
33
WHAT TO DO
i=
'1II
II
PROBLEM
irregular
Stitches
size
Improper
threading.
I
upper
Pulling
Breaking
Needle
I
needle.
choose
Light
pressure
an
Loose
presser
fao_,
wound
Pulling fabric,
Incorrect
size
Incorrect
tension.
presser
foot.
Bunching of
!
Thread
bobbin.
end
drown
back
Feed
dog
Incorrect
Puc_:ering
34
pull
increase
needle
_page
thread
pressure
guide
_page
_page
Do not pull fabric;
Choose correct
of needle.
threads
under
both
threads
Raise
feed
dog
Reset
thread
(page
5_.
_page
12_.
Foot
(page
10)_
it gently.
for thread
and fabric _page
5).
5].
back
15_.
under
presser
foot
Cpage
10_.
foot.
down,
thread
guide
size needte
Draw
fabric
7_.
Reset needle _page
not
presser
and
15_.
Beset presser foot _page
lower
thread
it gently.
on presser
foot
bobbin
For
9_.
tension
fabric;
presser
Rewind
needle.
setting
Upper
upper
Do
not
size
machine
Tighten
Reset
Loose presser foot.
:I
correct
Rethread
thread
m
CORRECTION
fabric.
Unevenly
ii
CAUSE
Incorrect
Loose
'i
.
PROBABLE
tension_s_.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Increase
Using two different
kinds of thread.
Upper
_page
15_,
tension_s_
pressure
on
_pages
presser
12,
Foot
13_.
_page
10_.
sizes or
t_reod
and
Bent or blunt needle,
Insert
new
Loose presser foot.
Reset
presser
Fabric too
Use
sheer or too soft.
underlay
needle
foot
bobbin
_.page
_poge
oF tissue
thread
should
be
same
size
5_.
15_.
paper
or
tarlatan
when
stitching.
and
klnd.
WHAT TO DO
,.
i
ii
i
i n
i
i
i
i
I II
PROBLEM
PROBABLE
Skipping
IncOrreCt
size
Ben_, or
b{unt
Incorrect
I
II
[
I I
IIIII III
ill
II
CAUSG
neecl_e.
Choose
need{e.
Insert
new
need|e,
Reset
need|e
tension,
Loosen
setting
of
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
Illill
I
I
CORRECTION
correct
size
needle
needle
_'page
_poge
for
thread
and
|abric
_page
5_.
Fabric
_poge
5_.
57,
5_.
Stitches
Tight
upper
Light
pressure
Starting
to
_mproper
Breaking
Upper
Thread
Tight
stitch
upper
Sharp
on presser
too
foot,
|ast,
threading,
Incorrect
eye
tension.
needle.
in
case
threading
thread
Increase
pressure
Start
stitch
to
_poge
presser
foot
a
medium
speed.
at
upper
Choose
correct
Check
tension
on
machlne
Loosen
Insert
needle.
bobbin
upper
Rethread
thread
size
Improper
Breaking
thread
new
ipage
thread
needle
bobbin
needle
_page
case
10_.
91 ,
tension
size
12_,
_'page
:_poge
for
12_.
thread
and
5_.
threading
_poge
8_.
_page
13_.
Bobbin
Thread
Tight
Lint
bobbin
in
Feed
Fabric
not
Moving
Machine
Jamming
_Knocking Noise_
bobbin
dog
Light
Threads
Thread
thread
case
tension.
or
shutt|e.
on
knotted
caught
Clean
Raise
down.
pressure
Loosen
presser
under
in
shutt{e.
_oot,
fabric.
increase
bobbin
babbln
feed
thread
c<_se csr_
dog
;page
pressure
Place
both
to stitch,
Disc_ssemble
tension
and
(pages
32, 33t.
151.
on
threads
shuttle
presser
back
cleon
foot
under
shuttle
_page
presser
_pages 32,
_0_.
foot
before
beginning
33).
35
PARTS
LIST
All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons- Sears retail store,
catalog sates office or mail order house.
@
@
@
@
@
36
@
@
®
@
Whenordering
theseparts,pleasebesureto mentionthefollowingreferences
:
1. Model& serialnumbers
of machine
shownonthenomenctature
plate. Seepage2.
2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here.
When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be shipped at prevailing
prices and you will be bilged accordingly.
Ref. No=
Par s No.
Description
Ref. No.
_tion
Ref. No.
17980
Shuttle
hook
2
26929
Needle
clamp
3
4
F502
6510
Bobbin
Bobbin case
5
6797
Light bulb
6
30!5
7
8
3076
26841
26842
Pattern disc
No. 2
15
740
26843
26844
Pattern disc No. 3
Pattern disc No, 4
16
17
9363
6870
Zigzag presser foot
Satin stitch foot
26845
Pattern disc No. 5
18
135
Presser foot thumb
26846
26847
Pattern disc No, 6
Pattern disc No. 7
19
20
6902
6864
Motor rubber belt
Needle threader
26848
Pattern disc No. 8
2I
6854
Buttonhole
26849
Pattern disc No, 9
22
8939
1-1!16"
Keyhole
template
26850
Pattern disc No, 10
8940
1-1/16"
Regular
template
2t_6t
26862
Pattern disc No. 21
Pattern disc No. 22
8941
8942
!3t16"
Regular template
5/8" Regular template
26863
Pattern disc No. 23
_293
6! 16" Reguatr
26864
Pattern disc No, 24
9
6745
No. 11 Single needles
in yellow
9022
1/2" Regular
template
6742
No, 14 Single needtes
in red case
9023
3/8"
Regular
template
6743
6744
No, 16 Singte needles
No. 18 Single needles
in green case
in blue case
5/8"
Keyhole
23
9020
9181
Buttonhole
cover plate
11
1939
Bobbin winder rubber
ring
24
9_62
Buttonhole
guide plate
Large screw driver
12
2273
Nylon
25
32736
Buttonhole
guide plate
Small screw driver
Pattern disc No_ 1
13
14
8286
1222
Thread spool pin
Bobbin winder tension
needle in ivory case
Straight
ayelel
9021
disc
15/16"
case
PartsNo.
6741
Double
10
PartsNo.
1
template
disc
stitch foot
,_crew
foot
template
end
temptate
Regular
template
37
ADJUSTING
When
your
sewing
YOUR
machine
SEWING
does
not
sew
MACHINE
a properly
locked
The upper
and bobbin
thread
should
be matched
in size and type.
Check
threading
carefully,
See page
9.
Check
the thread
tension
balance.
Use
mercerized
thread,
and
for the fabric
you
are using.
Do not try this test with synthetic
break.
c.
fabric
into the case.
of your fabric
fold.
the
if
if
If
If
stitching
and
pull
with
both threads
break-tensions
neither
thread
breaks-both
upper
thread
breaks-loosen
lower
thread
breaks-tighten
a snap
to
make
threads
are balanced.
tensions
are too
upper
tension.
upper
tension.
you
the
following:
are
using.
a correct
size needle
thread
as it will not
Set the
stitch
in half diagonally,
If seam is puckered-both
tensions
are too tight.
If the bottom
thread
lays on the fahrictighten
upper
thread
test.
See page 12, Figure
3.
If the top thread
lays on the
fabric-loosen
upper
thread
test.
See page
I2. Figure
2.
Grasp
a.
b,
c.
d.
and
STITCHES
check
2.
3,
4.
bobbin,
properly
threaded
per inch.
Fold a 6 _ square
a line of stitching
_'_ from
thread
stitch,
Insert
a new needle
of the correct
Consult
chart on page 5 for'needle
a.
b.
the
GOOD
1.
Begin
with a full
about
12 stitches
a triangle.
Make
size for
size.
FOR
tension,
tension,
length
at
forming
and
repeat
and
repeat
break.
loose.
oth threads
do not have to break
at the same
place,
but they should
break
on the same
_ap.
obbin
tension
may be reset
by the following
procedure.
Start
with a loose
bobbin
thread
msion.
Tighten
the spring
screw
gradually
until
bobbin
case
and full
bobbin
can
be
gently
lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin
thread.
38
39
_[
40
]1_._[
0
SEWING
MACHINE
SEARS, ROEBUCK
SIMPSONS-SEARS
AND CO., Chicago, IL I
U.S.A. and
LIMITED,
Toronto,
Ontario,
Canada
Printed
in Japan
Part No. 55039
9/91