Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit Automobile Accessories User Manual

KDX200220 Dual Sport Kit
185 Bosstick Blvd. ♦ San Marcos ♦
California ♦ 92069
Phone (760) 560-2252 ♦
Fax (760) 560-
Baja Designs manufactures its own products as well as resells products
manufactured by others. Baja Designs makes no express or implied
warranties on products not manufactured by Baja Designs including
without limitation any warranties or merchantability and fitness for a
particular purpose. We will however, pass on all warranties made by the
manufacturer, who has sole responsibility for performing such warranties.
Baja Designs will repair or replace any item manufactured by us that we
judge to be defective in workmanship or material within 30 days of
shipment. We will not be responsible for any indirect or consequential
damages in connection with defective merchandise. Products used in
racing, competition or damaged by crash, abuse, or misuse are not
Indemnification: Buyer hereby acknowledges motorcycle riding is a dangerous sport
and that the products and/or supplies purchased from Baja Designs are
used in an inherently dangerous activity that may endanger life and limb;
and in no event shall the seller, or seller's heirs and assigns, be held liable
for consequential damages, nor shall seller's liability on any claim for
damages arising out of or connected with the sale, delivery, or use of
purchased products and/or supplies exceed the purchase price of the
products and/or supplies.
Dual Sport Kit: Installation of a Baja Designs Dual Sport kit by itself does not make an
off-road motorcycle street legal. Each state has different equipment
requirements for street legal motorcycles, including but not limited to such
items as DOT approved tires, left and right side mirrors, speedometers,
quiet exhaust, chain guards, and side reflectors. Contact your state’s
department of motor vehicles or highway patrol for a comprehensive list
of equipment that is required for street motorcycles before riding your
bike on the street.
Street Riding: Riding a motorcycle on the street is very different than off road riding
and requires special skills not learned off-road. Most states require an
additional license beyond an automobile drivers license to operate a
motorcycle on the street. Make sure to have the proper licensing and
skills before riding your bike on the street. Baja Designs recommends
contacting the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (800 446-9227) for a rider
course near you.
‘95-on Kawasaki KDX 200/220 Installation Manual
1. Get a degree in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering. (Just kidding!)
2. Remove the seat, side panels, radiator shrouds, and gas tank.
3. Unplug the taillight from the stock wiring harness, remove the taillight lens, and
remove the taillight socket and wiring.
If you are color blind or even think you might be a little color blind, now is the time to
get someone to assist you. Successful installation of the kit requires good color
recognition. You want to go riding this weekend, don't you?
4. Unplug and remove the head light on/off switch from the wiring harness. Detach the
headlight from its wiring at the bulb socket and remove headlight. The headlight wiring
unplugs underneath the tank area. Unplug the red and yellow leads of this wiring,
remove the ground attachment from the ignition coil and remove this wiring.
Figure 1
Unplug Lighting Switch
and kill
grounds here
Unplug headlight and kill
button wiring here.
Run Gray Multiconductor cable
as shown here.
Stator Wiring
5. Remove the kill switch. Unplug the black/white wire from the region below the tank
and remove the its ground from the ignition coil. Make sure to reinstall the coil and the
remaining ground wire.
Photo 1
CDI Unit
AC Voltage
6. Locate the AC voltage
regulator found mounted to the
top of the airbox lid. It is a
silver finned aluminum box
measuring approximately 11/4" x 2" (Photo 1) with two
wires exiting it . Unplug the
regulator from the wiring
harness and remove regulator.
7. The stock stator on the KDX
is good for about 40 watts of
lighting output. This is not
enough to run the full street lighting system. The stator will have to be rewound and the
ground floated for the kit to work properly. If you have not already done so, remove the
stator plate by removing the shifter, left mag cover, flywheel, and the two screws which
secure the stator plate. Make note of the timing marks on the stator plate and how they
are referenced to the timing index on the case so that you can reinstall the stator plate in
the same position. You will need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel.
Once the stator has been rewound, reinstall and run its wiring back up to the front right
corner of the airbox.
8. Taillight Installation: Install the Acerbis DOT taillight over the empty well left in
the stock fender using the two small sheet metal
screws and 6 x 16 mm bolt found in the parts
bag. Position the Acerbis taillight so that the top
two mounting holes line up with the top edge of
original taillight well as shown in Photo 2.
Transfer the hole locations for the top mounting
holes onto the fender with a felt pen or snap
Drill 1/16”
punch. Drill two 1/16 inch holes for the top
mounts. Attach the taillight with the two small
Phillips head sheet metal screws in the parts bag.
Once in place, drill the bottom mounting hole
using a 1/4” drill. When installing the lower
mounting bolt, make sure to install the 6 x 16
mm bolt from the bottom up to minimize the
opportunity for the tire to grab it. Run the
taillight wires along the left frame rail using the
stock wire clamps to support it. Bring the ends
Photo 2
of the taillight leads up on top of the rear fender
to the area that is below the seat.
Drill 1/4”
Photo 3
diameter bolt and nut to sandwich
two fender washers on the inside and
outside of the fender. Carefully heat
the inside of the fender with a heat
gun until you can pull the bolt down
to horizontal. Reinstall turn signals.
9. Rear Turn Signal Installation:
Turn signal mounting requires that
you drill a 15/32 inch hole in either
side of the rear fender near where it
meets the side panels. You can
achieve a clean, durable installation
using this mounting location..
Mount the rear turn signals by
drilling a 3/8" hole in the rear
fender in the location shown in
Photo 3, three eighths of an inch
back from the front edge. If you
desire the turn signals to be
completely level, use a 3/8 inch
Photo 4 - Left Side
Turn Signal Mounting
Run the left turn signal wires along
with the taillight wiring forward
along the left frame rail to the area
just behind the airbox and above the
fender. Run the right turn signal
wires forward along the right frame
rail, and up to the same location
behind the airbox.
10. Brake Light Switch:
The KDX uses a hydraulic brake
switch. This requires replacing
the rear master cylinder banjo
bolt with a specially made
switch. Installing the switch
requires bleeding the rear brake.
If you do not feel competent
bleeding your rear brake, please
refer this job to a qualified
mechanic as failure to do it
correctly will render the brake
Remove the bolt holding the
brake fluid reservoir to provide
access to the master cylinder.
Loosen the banjo bolt that secures the rear brake line to the master cylinder. Typically,
this bolt will be very tight and loosening it will bend the hanger for the master cylinder if
not supported.
Remove the banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch. You may need to bend the
tab that mounts the reservoir back slightly to make clearance for the brakeswitch. Make
sure to install the copper crush washer from the stock bolt under the switch. Torque
the switch assembly to 25 lbf-ft. Once the switch is installed, reattach the reservoir using
the provided extension bracket as shown in Photo 5.
Locate the red and blue wire extension in the parts bag. Attach the end with both females
to the two males from the brakeswitch. Route this extension up the subframe to the area
behind the airbox. We’ll attach this extension to the wiring harness in a later step.
Bleeding the Brakes: (Do not begin this
Photo 6
process unless you have a fresh can of
Keep loop
brake fluid) Re-install the brake fluid
reservoir and
bleed nipple
remove the lid. Put the box end of 8mm
wrench over the brake bleed nipple and
install the bleed hose (supplied) tightly over 8 mm Wrench
Bleed Nipple
the nipple. Position the loop on the hose
above the nipple as shown in Photo 6 with
the other end of the hose in a container to
catch the fluid. Crack the bleed nipple open
about 1/8 to a quarter turn keeping the loop
in the hose vertical. Slowly depress the
brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid. Pump slowly until you have brake fluid extending
up into the loop, then you can pump the pedal fairly aggressively to drive air out of the
system - The fluid above the bleed nipple will prevent air from re-entering the system.
pedal until there is no more bubbles, then close the nipple with the wrench. Double
check that the pedal is firm and the brake works properly.
Photo 7
Wires Exit Here
Zip Ties
Run wires
to right
side of
11. Voltage Regulator Installation: Install the voltage regulator as shown in the Photo
7. Use the 6 x 40 mm flange bolts and 3/4” long spacers to attach it where the original
AC regulator sat. Mount the regulator so that the wires exit the regulator towards the rear
of the motorcycle. Run the large bundle of wires from the regulator down underneath the
right side seat frame rail toward the front right corner of the airbox to be plugged in at a
later step.
12. Battery Mounting: The battery mounts to the airbox lid with double sided foam
tape and two 11 inch zip ties just in front of the airbox opening and behind the CDI unit
as shown in Photo 7. Position the battery so that the wires exit at the top right as shown.
Use the double sided tape to adhere the battery to the airbox lid. Drill two 3/16” holes in
the airbox lid just in front of the battery to allow you to further secure it with the two 11”
zip ties enclosed.
13. Front Turn Signals: The turn signals now come pre-attached to the Baja Designs
dual-sport kit headlight.
14. Turn Signal Switch Installation:
Install the turn signal switch on the
left handlebar next to the grip as
shown in Photo 8. The switch has a
single screw that pinches it together
on one side. Two tabs secure the
switch halves on the other side.
Remove the screw to separate the
halves so that it can be installed on the
handlebar. When installing the switch
to the handle bar, make sure the tabs
are seated in their locating holes and
Photo 8
then tighten the pinch screw. DO
SCREW, as too much force can strip
the body of the switch. The clutch
perch will have to be moved to the right to make room for the switch. Run the wires
along the backside of the handlebar and down over the front of the triple clamps.
15. Hi Beam Indicator and Bracket:
Install the high beam indicator bracket
under the left hand handlebar pinch
clamp bolt as shown it Photo 9.
Photo 9
16. Stator Connections: Reinstall your stator assembly at this point if you haven’t done
so already. Run the stator wire as before to the connections near the front right corner of
the airbox. Plug the black wire from the stator into the black wire from the CDI unit
(Refer to Photo 1 for CDI Unit location). Plug the red/white wire from the stator back
into its red/white mate from the CDI. Leave the black/yellow and blue wires from
the CDI plugged into the stock harness.
Photo 10
Connect yellow and
white stator wires
to yellow regulator
wires here
Connect the yellow wire and the new white wire from your rewound stator to the two
yellow leads with male connectors coming from the Baja Designs rectifier/ regulator.
They should connect just below the seat rail at the right hand side of the airbox as shown
in Photo 10 and the color photo.
Photo 11
17. Wiring Harness Installation: Locate the long multi-conductor cable with the nylon
multi-pin connector at one end. Gently plug this connector together with the one in the
front wiring harness. Do not force. If you have trouble plugging the two together,
realign the male pins with a small screwdriver to get a good match. Note that dielectric
grease has been applied to the female terminals to help prevent corrosion. This grease
can be purchased at any automotive parts store. With the handlebars fully turned to the
right to make sure there is enough slack in the cable, run the wire down along the stock
wire guides, past the ignition coil , along the front cross-member to the rectangular
frame tube that the tank rests on, back along the left side of the airbox to the area behind
the airbox and above the rear fender (Photo 11).
18. Front Wiring Connections: You will now make all the connections required at the
front of the bike.
A. Ignition Switch: The only place the Baja Designs kit interfaces with the
KDX’s ignition system is through the kill button lead. In no other way does this
lighting kit effect the operation of the motorcycle’s ignition system. The turn
signal switch has a built in ignition function that will allow you to shut the bike
off via a built in kill switch or selecting the rear most position with the lighting
selector. This will prevent you from forgetting to shut off the lights when you
turn off the bike, lessening the chance for a dead battery. Note this switch must
now be pushed to the second position for the bike to run (See later
Locate the black white
lead coming from the turn
green lead
Photo 12
signal switch. It should be
with ring
plugged into a black/white
& green extension lead
found in your small parts
bag. The green/yellow
lead from the turn signal
switch should be plugged
into a green lead with a
ring terminal on the other
Connect the black/white
lead to
extension lead to the
black/ white lead where
of stock
the stock kill button
plugged in originally
(Photo 12).
Attach the green lead with
the ring terminal to chassis ground at the coil as shown in Photo 12.
Note: Disconnecting this black/white lead will completely isolate the Baja
Designs wiring harness from the bike’s stock ignition system, and the bike will
run whether or not the switch is on or the wiring is damaged.
A. Horn (Pre-installed inside the headlight shell): Connect the gray and purple pair of
wires to the two terminals at the back of the horn.
B. Right Turn Signal: Connect the black and green pair of wires to the right turn
C. Left Turn Signal: Connect the black and brown pair of wires to the left turn signal.
D. Headlight, Flasher, Running Light and High Beam Indicator: Plug the headlight
connector (white three terminal connector) into the back of the headlight. Connect the
yellow and black wire pair to the two wires from the high beam indicator (May be
previously connected). Connect the red/green and orange wires to the flasher. The
red/green wires go to the terminal labeled "P" and the orange wire connects to the
terminal labeled "L". Plug the brown and green wires from the headlight connector
into the matching brown and green wires from the headlight running light.
Note that the headlight bulb is a standard H4 35/35 watt automotive unit. Do not replace
this bulb with a 55/60 watt bulb. The stator does not produce enough power to run this
bulb and the rest of the lighting system without discharging the battery. (See Battery
Maintenance Section).
19. Rear Wiring Connections: You will now make all the connections required to the
wiring harness at the rear of the bike. Take your time to do a neat job here so that you
will have a reliable lighting system. Refer to color photographs to copy wiring layout.
If you make a mistake in the following steps, the worst that could happen is the bike will
catch fire and burn to the ground (NOT).
1. Run the red and black leads from the battery around the front right corner of
the airbox. At this time we recommend you remove the fuse from the
rectifier/regulator wiring temporarily until the installation is complete. Plug the
black male lead from the battery into the black female lead from the
rectifier/regulator. Plug the red female lead from the battery into the red
male lead from the rectifier/regulator.
2. Locate the black ground lead from the voltage regulator and install the ring
terminal underneath one of the regulator mounting bolts (if you haven’t done so
In the next few steps we will connect the main gray multi-conductor cable to
the rest of the wiring harness. The end of this cable should be above the
fender in the area behind the airbox as shown in the color photos.
Photo 13
4. Locate the blue wire from the gray multi-conductor cable and connect it to
the black wire coming from the fuse block.
5. Locate the black male lead from the gray multi-conductor cable and
connect it to the black/yellow lead of the stock wiring harness that formerly
connected to the stock taillight. Note that the stock red wire will not be used in
this installation.
6. Plug the red male terminal from the taillight into one of the red female
connectors from the wiring harness.
7. Run the red and blue brake light switch wires up to the area behind the airbox.
8. Plug the red wire from the brake switch into the open slot of the red double
female connector of the gray multi-conductor harness. Do this by doubling
the red wire of the brake switch back on itself for a clean wire run.
9. Plug the blue lead from the taillight into the blue lead from the brake light
10. Plug the black lead from the taillight into one side of the black double
female connector.
11. Plug one of the leads from the left turn signal into the other side of the black
double female connector.
12. Plug the other lead from the left turn signal into the brown wire of the
wiring harness.
13. Connect the black single female terminal from the wiring harness to one
side of the right turn signal.
14. Connect the green lead from the wiring harness to the other side of the
right rear turn signal.
Route wires as shown in the photos for a clean and secure installation. Zip tie
the wire in place to limit their movement.
15. Install the fuse in the fuse block.
The wiring installation is now
completed!! Proceed to the next section
to test your work.
16. System Checkout
Kill Button
Fourth Position:High
Third Position: Low
Second Position:
Turns on Ignition
and running lights
First Position:
Shuts off bike, turns
off lights
Turn Signal
The turn signal switch in
this kit controls both the
lighting and ignition
functions in one compact
package. Using the
lighting selector, push the
switch to the second
position. The rear taillight
should come on. Try the
turn signal switch to the
right and the left. Both the
front and the back signal
should alternate on and off.
Honk the horn (unless its
after 11 PM!). In this
second position, the bike
will now start, and a
headlight running light
will come on. Use this
position during daytime
hours when you don’t
need full headlight
brightness. This position
will ensure that the
battery stays fully
charged even when doing
slow technical trail riding
when the bikes electrical output is low.
The third switch position turns on the head light’s low beam, and the fourth switch
position powers up the high beam. See diagram to left.
Note: The lighting selector switch must be in positions
two through four for the bike to run!
If every thing is working properly congratulate yourself on a job well done. If not, don't
worry, it's not rocket science and we should be able to figure it out. All the components
were checked for operation prior to being shipped to you so something is probably not
connected correctly. See the trouble shooting list in a later section.
17. Wrapping it Up: It is important that all the wires be properly routed and secured.
Double check the photos and sketches with regards to wire routing. Make sure the wires
do not pass over any sharp edges, are pulled overly tight, or can be crushed by the seat,
tank, fender, etc. Use all the zip ties provided to securely fasten the wires. Any
unwanted movement or chafing means early failure when off the road. Note : When zip
tying the wires, do so separately of the radiator vent hose to the overflow tank. Make
sure you do not cut off the flow in this line with a too tight zip tie. Make sure all the
silicone rubber connector boots and the connectors are pushed firmly together and no
bare metal is exposed. Put on the seat, tank, and side panels, slide on down to your local
DMV, and then go roost!
Nothing Happens When You Turn the Power Switch On.
• Fuse is blown. Check for bare wire or terminal shorting against the frame or another
• Multi-pin connector not properly connected.
• Battery connection poor. Make sure the connectors are fully seated.
• Battery is dead. Measure voltage with voltmeter, or connect a 12 volt light across it.
• Poor connection at the blue wire junction on the airbox.
The Turn Signals Won't Come On, or Won't Flash
• The wires on the flasher are connected backward. The red wire goes to the terminal
labeled "B".
• Check turn signal wire connections.
• Make sure you have connected the correct wires to the turn signals. Check
• Battery voltage is low. If the battery voltage is low, the turn signals won't flash, or will
flash very slowly. Running the bike will cure this as well as charge the battery.
The Brake Light Won't Come On
• Adjust brake switch position.
• Maybe it's on already. Check adjustment. The actuating arm on the switch must be
depressed for the brake light to shut off.
• Brake and tail connections are reversed. The brake light is already on so their is no
increase in light intensity when you activate the brake. Check the blue and red taillight
If you still need assistance, call Baja Designs at (858) 578-9111.
Care and Feeding of your Battery: Your kit contains a 12 volt 0.8 ampere-hour NiCad battery. These batteries are very durable, require no maintenance, and can be
mounted in any position. There are certain things you can do however to maximize its
life. The alternator and voltage regulator in your kit keep your battery fully charged
while you are riding, however, when you turn the engine off and the lights are still on the
battery is being discharged. With the Ni-Cad battery if you forget and leave the lights on,
don’t sweat it. You can deep cycle (drain down and charge back up) a Ni-Cad all you
If you are doing a lot of slow trail riding where you are on the brakes a lot, the battery
may slowly discharge (if the headlight selector is on high or low beam).
The rewound KDX stator is capable of a total of 72 watts at 4000 rpm. This is just
enough to support the lighting system under normal riding conditions. If the bike is
ridden a lot a low engine speed, the output of the alternator may not be great
enough to support the charging system and the battery will slowly discharge. If the
bike is to be operated for an extended time at low rpms, run the headlight in the
running lamp position to minimize battery drain.
If you want to run a 55/60 watt headlamp or other accessories, Baja Designs builds a
120 watt lighting coil for the KDX for $130.
Riding the bike will recharge a drained battery (good excuse for riding, huh?) or you can
recharge it with a small trickle charger. Do not charge it with more than 0.5 amperes,
and keep an eye on the amount of time and charging voltage. When the battery becomes
warm to the touch, it is fully charged. Do not connect it to a charger overnight.
If the bike is going to be sitting for more than a month, it is recommended that you
disconnect the positive terminal of the battery to prevent it from discharging. There
is a small amount of current that leaks back through the rectifier when it is connected.
Maintenance: Occasionally examine the wires in your lighting system to make sure they
are not chaffing or binding so that they don't cause you a problem when you're out on the
trail or on the road. A well routed, properly secured wiring system is key to getting long
life and trouble free performance from your conversion kit. The light bulbs take a beating
on a dirt bike, especially the rear taillight’s. The continuous vibration and impact can
cause the bulb contact to prematurely oxidize, causing the bulb to fail. Occasionally
remove the bulbs (taillight and turnsignals) and scrape the soft contact at the base of the
bulb and clean its mating contact in the lamp assembly.
Baja Designs • 7558 Bosstick Blvd.
SAN MARCOS • California • 92069 • (760) 560-2522
Fax (760) 560-0383