College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Extension Publications

College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Extension Publications
College of Agriculture and Life Sciences
Extension Publications
The Extension Publications collections in the UA Campus Repository are comprised of both current
and historical agricultural extension documents from the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences at
the University of Arizona.
This item is archived to preserve the historical record. This item may contain
outdated information and is not intended to be used as current best practice.
Current extension publications can be found in both the UA Campus Repository, and on the CALS
Publications website,
If you have questions about any materials from the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences
collections, please contact CALS Publications by sending an email to: [email protected]
Make Good Use of
Your Sewing Machine
Select Your Pattern Size Correctly
Preparation of Fabric
Pinning the Pattern on the Fabric
Putting the Garment Together
Putting the Waistband to
Your Gored Skirt
Attaching the Band to the Skirt
Putting in the Zipper
Putting in the Hem
Invisible Machine Hem
Finishing the Seams
Jack Flesher who is a member of
a young homemakers club m Pima
County. The daughters are Vich
(left) and Tom (right).
Unitt) sity of Auzona
Colleqe of igricutture
Ujncultural h\ tension Service
Chas U Pic hell Directoi
Loopciatwc extension work in agriculture
and home economics, the University of Ansona College of Aqncultwe and the United
States Department of Agriculture cooperate
mg Distributed m furtherance of the Acts
of Congtes6 of May 8 and June 10* 1914
5M - February 1956 - Circular 236
By Helen L. Church
Extension Clothing Specialist
University of Arizona
As a young homemaker, have
you found yourself confronted with
having to learn to sew for two
young daughters like Vickie and
Tom? (See the cover picture) Purchasing children's clothing readymade seems to put a strain on the
family clothing budget. In an attempt to help the situation, possibly you have invested money m
one of these new "wonder" sewing
machines Now you are determined
to get your money's worth out of it.
You found that the wonder machine wouldn't do the job alone.
With this m mind, this circular
has been written for you. It will
give you some basic sewing techniques to be learned through the
construction of a blouse and skirt.
Make Good Use of Your Sewing Machine
There are many things that your
machine can do for you to make
sewing easy. Use your machine as
much as possible.
Baste by machine It is more
accurate. Lengthen the stitch to 6
or 7 stitches per inch. Pull the bobbin thread to pull out the basting
Tie threads by machine Retracing is satisfactory on under seams
but it takes more time. Try using
the following method. As you finish stitching, lift the presser foot
just enough to keep the feed dog
from pulling the material back. Let
the needle go up and down in the
— 3-
same hole several times. This will
tie a knot as you sew. Clip the
threads closely.
Use the seam guide or place a
piece of adhesive tape parallel with
the foot of the machine. Since most
seam allowances are % inch, the
tape should be placed in a straight
line % inch from the needle. This
will help you to make uniform
seam widths (Illustration 1).
Illustration 1- • •
Select Your Pattern Size Correctly
Now measure from center front
When looking for your pattern,
turn to the back of the book and to side seam, coming two inches
check where the measurements are below the armpit. Measure across
taken for the particular make of the back in the same way
GarAlterment Pattern ation
The pattern for the blouse will
be purchased according to the bust
_ _ .
measurment. Most patterns ask for Back
measurement above the fullest part
of the bust. Waist and hip measure- Front
ments are necessary for the skirt
Now m e a s u r e sleeve width,
Now take your pattern and a
across the sleeve at the
garment that fits you correctly.
Take the measurements of the garment and compare them with the
GarAlterpattern size
ment Pattern ation
Waist Length
GarAlterment Pattern ation
Sleeve Width
The skirt needs to be measured
at the waistline, and 7 inches below
the waistline for hip measurement,
back and front separately. Pin to
the grain line of the fabric is not
» end t o foil A
Illustration 3
(Illustration 3). These sides of the
cloth should lie in straight lines
with the magazine. If they don't,
2. To straighten, pull opposite
ends of the short side diagonally,
attempting to straighten yarns. If
this does not work, wet the fabric
and when partially dry, press it,
keeping the selvedges and torn ends
Pinning the Pattern on the Fabric
1. Press the pattern. Get out
the guide and read it carefully.
Mark the cut out chart on the guide
that corresponds to your width of
2. Lay all the pattern pieces on
the material before you cut.
3. Fold the pattern from top to
bottom on the grain line. This helps
you to lay the pattern straight.
4. Use only enough pins to
keep the fabric from slipping. Place
pins perpendicular to edges.
5. Cut with shears (not pinking shears) close to the pattern
edges. Cut notches away from edge
instead of making a nick in the
Marking: Put in all markings,
darts, buttonholes, pleats, collar
placing, etc. Do this with a tracing
Illustration 4
wheel and carbon paper, tailor
chalk, or tailor tacks.
Leave the pattern on the material until you are ready to put
the pieces together. The quick
method of marking is to use the
tracing wheel and dressmaker carbon. Test carbon paper and use
lightest color possible. Make all
markings on the wrong side of
material. (Illustration 4).
Putting the Garment Together
Do your sewing by units. Fold
pattern pieces in 4 or 5 stacks, each
stack containing parts that go together.
1. Stay stitch neck, shoulders
and any bias areas. (See Circular
180, "Stay Stitching Makes Sewing
Easier," University of Arizona, Agricultural Extension Service).
2. Mark center front with machine basting for 2 inches.
3. Make darts.
4. Finish facing edge.
5. Make pockets. Stitch interfacing to front cm edge.
6. Press.
1. Stay stitch as you did the
2. Stitch in darts.
3. Press.
1. Mark center of collar.
2. Stitch together undercollar
and interfacing. Put top collar and
undercollar together.
3. Press seam open.
4. Stitch the under edge of the
seam down. This keeps the edge
from rolling.
5. Trim the edges to Vk inch.
Clip curve.
6. Press collar. Then stay stitch
the inside neckline, stitching top
and undercollar together if collar
is round.
Be sure that you have cut the
sleeve grainline-true and that you
have marked the high point and
notches. The trick to setting in a
sleeve is in the handling of the
1. Make a machine basting
from notch to notch on the exact
seam allowance. A second row can
be made % inch from this line.
(Illustration 5).
2. The machine basting stitch
should not be too large, about 5
stitches to the inch. If you wish,
use your bobbin filled with nylon
thread. Then make the seam in the
sleeve. Press.
3. Turn garment wrong side
out, but do not turn the sleeve.
Drop sleeve into the armhole,
bringing together the right sides of
4. First, pin the notches matching exactly. Place all pins perpendicular to the edges.
5. Then pin the high point of
the sleeve to the shoulder seam.
6. Pin seams together at underarm.
7. Pull up stay stitching and
ease to armhole, keeping most of
the ease quite high.
8. Pin securely. Turn the sleeve
back over your hand; ease the fullness down on the armhole. Baste
so that there are no visible gathers.
(Illustration 6).
seam allowance
Illustration 5
Illustration 6
Putting the Waistband to Your Gored Skirt
Preparation of Waistband:
1. Your waistband should be
your waist measurement plus two
seam allowances and 2 inches for
extension. Cut it 3 inches wide if
you use selvedge, otherwise 3%
inches. This will make a one-inch
finished band.
2. An interfacing in the waistband will keep it from wrinkling.
You may use any type of interfacing. Nurses cotton, pellon, or a
fabric that will not shrink are suitable. Make it one half the width of
your waistband plus % inch. Usually this is 1% inches.
3. Pin the interfacing to the
wrong side of the band. Keep lower
edges even. Stitch these pieces together % inch from the bottom.
Trim the interfacing away close to
se hedge
Illustration 20
line of stitching. (Illustration 20).
4. Now stitch the other edge
of the interfacing to the band extending % inch beyond the center.
Note that this line of stitching will
be on the under side of the waistband when it is finished. (Illustration 20).
Attaching the Band to the Skirt
1. Pin right side of band poriucmg from front
tion with interfacing attached to
right side of the skirt at the front
side of the placket. The band should
\ back df band
extend the seam allowance and 2
inches at the other end.
t-2" n
2. Pin center front of band to
center front of skirt; center back
to center back. Pin at side seams.
outside skirt
3. Ease skirt to band. If you
beibre band
altered your skirt top, it should fit.
If skirt is too large at top, you will
w turned
need to take out the extra fullness
in the seams.
Illustration 21
4. Stitch the band to the skirt
at seam line with band on top.
5. Fold the band double. Close
end of band. At the front side of edge to the waistline seam. (Illusthe band, stitch from the folded tration 21). Fasten thread securely,
— 12 —
a. Fasten your thread under
the hem.
b. Slip the needle into the
underside of the fold of the hem.
Bring the needle out about V2 inch
c. Take up one or two threads
below in the skirt. (See "A" in Illustration 26, page 14.)
d. Now put the needle into
fold just back of where it was
last put through. (See "B" in Illustration 26).
e. This forms a tiny figure 8
or cross that holds the hem securely.
It will not pull out if the thread
Invisible Machine Hem
X. Follow instructions 1 through
6 above.
2. Fold the hem back against
the right side of the garment. Allow
hem to extend 1/6 inch beyond fold.
You may wish to baste if it is a circular skirt. (Illustration 27).
3. Set machine at 10 to 12
stitches per inch.
4. Stitch on extended edge of
hem for about 5 stitches. Then pull
the garment side into line of needle,
catching one stitch in fold. Continue; then press.
With practice you can make a
most inconspicious and very durable hem. If the pressure on the
presser foot keeps you from pulling
the material from side to side lighten the pressure on the pressure bar
Illustration 27
Finishing the Seams
The weave and finish of the
fabric and the cut of the garment
determine the finish to be used for
the seams. The finish is to keep the
fabric from fraying and to keep it
inconspicious from the right side.
Bias seams often need no finishing.
Pinking shears may finish seams
on fine fabric with close weave.
The new zigzagger finishes fabrics that ravel very easily. If you
don't have a machine or an attachment that does this for you, one of
the following finishes may be used:
1 Stitch single stitching close
to the edges and press seam open.
2. Turn under edges 1/16 inch
and stitch the edge. Do not use this
finish if the material proves to be
thick end heavy, as the edge will
show on the right side when the
garment is pressed.
3. Another finish on lightweight
cotton is to stitch the two edges together and trim. The seam when
trimmed is VA inch in width. This is
a good finish when you do not press
seams open.
-*This is a
publication of the
'Agricultural Extension
Service, University of
Arizona* See your local
County Agricultural Agent or
Home Demonstration Agent
for other farm and
home information*
Was this manual useful for you? yes no
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Download PDF