College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Extension Publications The Extension Publications collections in the UA Campus Repository are comprised of both current and historical agricultural extension documents from the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences at the University of Arizona. This item is archived to preserve the historical record. This item may contain outdated information and is not intended to be used as current best practice. Current extension publications can be found in both the UA Campus Repository, and on the CALS Publications website, http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/ If you have questions about any materials from the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences collections, please contact CALS Publications by sending an email to: [email protected] Let's Mate II DRESS By Helen L. Church Extension Specialist in Clothing University of Arizona, Tucson ft <Jensions You have learned how to thread your sewing machine and how to stkch a straight seam. You also know how to change the length of the stitch. This year you should learn to adjust tensions. Many adults are afraid to change tensions on the sewing machine because they have never learned how to do it. With the use of nylon and dacron threads these days, it will be necessary for you to change the tensions often. But since this year you will be working with cotton thread, you will learn a simple method of adjusting tensions for cotton materials. Have you ever examined a sewing machine stitch? To look nice it should look the same on both sides. The tightness on the bottom and top thread as they make a stitch is caused by the tensions. There is one for the top thread and one for the bottom thread. If they both have the same tightness, the stitch is locked in the center of the fabric. ewi§tQ Now look at the drawing below. (A) If the top thread is not as tight as the bottom thread, the tighter bottom thread will pull the top one down and a loop will form on the underside of the material. (C) If the top thread is tighter than the bottom thread, then a loop is pulled up on the top of the material as in (B). After we have the bottom thread tightened, we usually do most of the adjusting with the top tension. A 0 C Your sewing machine book will give the location of the tension for the bobbin and for the top thread. The lower tension is regulated by a screw in the shuttle or shuttle case.A small screwdriver will turn the screw to the right to tighten it and to the left to loosen it. When you make the turn, move the screw only a little and then test the stitch. Test Tensions for Cotton Thread To test the tensions for cotton thread, cut a piece of cotton the weight of muslin. Fold, making it double thickness. Make one row of stitching on the true bias. Be sure that the bobbin and top threads are the same kind and weight of thread Hold the material between thumb and first finger of each hand, pull until the thread breaks, (as shown below). If the top thread breaks fim, the upper tension is tighter than the lower. If the lower thread breaks Hirst, then the lower tension is tighter than the upper. Take your sewing machine book and find out how and where to lengthen the stitch. You may use old bobbins half filled with a color that is not the same as the top thread. This will help you to know the bobbin thread. Set the stitch as long as possible. When you pull the basting out, pull the bobbin thread and it will come out easily. J u ing J live ads Tying threads is another task. You can have your machine do it for you on inside seams. To tie threads, raise the presser foot slightly and pull the material to keep the machine from f e e d i n g t h e material through. The needle should go up and down in the same hole 3 or 4 times. Then clip and cut the thread. J he C wording If the tension is even, both threads should break proving correct tension. If neither thread breaks, then the tensions are balanced, but both are probably too loose. After you have balanced the top and bottom thread, you may find that the material puckers. Then you must loosen the bottom tension and proceed to adjust the top thread again to balance with the bottom thread. <yVlachine You have learned to use the sewing machine to make seams, turn hems, etc. Would you like to machine baste instead of doing basting by hand? It is a time saver. When basting is necessary, try using your machine. jf-oot You will need to use the cording foot on your machine when you put the zipper in your dress or when making cording. If you do not have one for your machine, maybe Mother will let you get one. A cording foot is an extra attachment that can be purchased from most sewing machine companies at a reasonable price. It may be either a right or left foot. Or it may be one attachment with a foot that slides to make it possible to stitch from the left or right side of the cord or zipper. (See drawing below). of ^/Vlacni Your sewing machine needs oil occasionally. From your sewing machine bopk, learn where the oil holes are located. Drop a few drops in each hole before putting your machine away. Do this about once a month. Be sure that you have the best light ore KJJO weight oil. It should carry the sewing machine brand name. Never use an "allpurpose" oiL If your father has gun oil, maybe he would let you use it in preference to other household oils. The motor of an electric machine also needs oiling. There is a hard oil available for that which comes in a tube. This oiling should be done several times a year. ijou Jjiiy C <olo Have you ever had a new dress and had your friends say, "What a pretty dress for you," "You look stunning tonight," or "That is the best looking dress you have ever had?" Have you ever stopped to think why such expressions? Could it be that the color was most becoming to you? What do you see first when you look at a garment? Is it the color? Since color is so important, we need to study it and become color conscious. We need to develop a color sense. It takes much practice and interest to become artistic in combining colors. You can have fun looking at the colors about you. Try to see the lovely color harmony that nature provides in trees, flowers, birds, and animals. If we are to learn about combining colors that please, we need to know some of the principles. There are three primary colors from which all other colors are made. These primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. Mix equal amounts of two primary colors, and you get secondary colors which are orange, purple, and green. Now when you mix a secondary and a primary color, you will get intermediate colors like yellow green, blue green, blue violet, red violet, and yellow and red orange. As you look at a color wheel, on one side are colors containing red or yellow. These are warm colors. On the other side are colors that are cool and contain blue. White, gray, and black are neutrals and harmonize with most all other colors. There are certain words you will need to learn if you are to talk about colors. Hue is the first and by it we mean the name of the color, such as blue, red, yellow, green, etc. Value is the difference in the lightness and darkness of a color. The light colors are called tints, the dark colors shades. Combine Colors Carefully Every color is pretty alone, but you can 3 j . 1. • • « ; * . «r,vu destroy its 1beauty iby combining it with the wrong color. There are two general ways of using colors together. 2. Usually use bright colors in small areas. 3. When combining two colors, do not " s e e 1 u a l a m o u n t s , U * * e d u uller co,lo< ia «f, a m o u n t s a n d t h e b " g h t e r c o l o r «* lar smaller a m o u n t s , 4. Use some contrast. Too much of the same color is monotonous. 5. Do not repeat color contrasts too 1. Contrast- You may create very o f t e n . Twice is usually enough, striking effects by using colors together . 111 , . , « „! ^ 1 ^ , . 6. Light colors make you look larger: 6 that are opposite each other on the color / © ' , , \* 2 J „. « T ^ ^ w <v dark colors make you look smaller, J wheel, such as red and green. 10 make it pleasing, the contrasting color is usually 7. Smooth, shiny surfaces are less beused in a small amount. It takes skill to coming to most persons than soft, dull textures contrast. ^ . . , 8. Do not combine white will a dull 2. Like Colors. T h i s is another ^ Use k wMl ^ c f a u e r Qr method used in combining colors, such as barker t o n e s , Heht blue and a darker blue, light green ' . . ar!d a darker green. This gives a soft effect ™ e r e a r e o t h e , r ' ^ ^ r e s t i n g thmgs t0 learn a and is pleasing. ^ ° u t ?ol°* ^ m l ? . " ! a " o n s : S e ^ E x ' tension Circular 1/8, Color m Your Knowing all the terms of color may not Hands" for more detailed information, help you to select your best colors. Each Your leader should have a copy of k, or person has his own individual problems. c a n g e t one from the County Home DemYou must experiment to find your best onstration Agent, color. Sit down before a mirror and study your ^_^ own personal coloring. Your hair may be SzlzctinQt f-aLric brown, but are there glints of red in it or yellow? Analyze your coloring. Your Last year you learned t o make a simple skin tones may have pink or yellow pre- blouse and skirt. This year you will learn dominating. Your eyes — what is their to make a more difficult dress — one of color? nice cotton, set together at the waistline, r> J 1 • i and one that has a set-in sleeve if the blouse Record coloring of your: , . t —, r , . .rt , t 0 you make is sleeveless. T h e fabric will need Hair to be a cotton — Arizona's most popular fabric. CT . Skin N o w that you have had some experience •kyes in sewing, Mother probably will allow you Remember, what the color does to the a f e w m o r e c e n t s P e r y a r d f o r y°m m a t e skin is most important, especially if the r i a l T h e r e a r e s o mmY beautiful cottons garment allows much of the skin area of m o u r s t o r e s arms and neck to be exposed. Some genLast year you learned two terms that are eral rules might help you in making color important on the cotton label: "Shrinkage selection and combining colors. 1 %," which is usually rigmel or sanforized 1. Be sure that the color worn near treated; and "Vat Dye," which is the your face does not, by contrast, kill your most dependable dye to withstand Arizona own coloring. sunshine. — 6— It may be a winter cotton which is usually dark in color and appears as other types of fabric, such as cotton tweed. If it is a summer dress you are making, it may be of a nice fabric, such as pique, tissue gingham, voile, chambray, or novelty cottons. require skill in handling and pressing. Unless you are skilled, avoid large prints, plaids, stripes or checks that must be matched for complete beauty of fabric and design. Do not select a pile or napped fabric, such as velveteen or corduroy, for this project. If the fabric has no label concerning shrinkage, then it should be preshrunk as you have already learned. Do be careful about this; you would not want to be in the situation of the 4-H girl who was selected to be a county's representative at the 4-H Roundup in the style show. She wanted her pretty cotton, dotted Swiss, to look its best, so she washed it. It shrank in length and width until she could not wear it. She could not go to the 4-H Roundup in the dress. Her new dress suddenly became a remodeling problem. Many of the cottons that you may select this year may carry the term "crease resistant." This means that k will not muss and wrinkle badly and that when hung up it will lose many wrinkles. The finish may or may not be durable or permanent. Look for either one of these terms along with the finish before you buy. Some fabrics are permanently stiff and need no starching; some have glazed surfaces. Many designs have been put into the glazed surface that are not permanent. As a rule they are not good buys, in that they cannot be pressed. The material — when ironed — loses its design and it is soon old and "tacky" looking. The seams cannot easily be pressed as you sew, and if you have to rip or change seams the stitching usually shows. Many of these fabrics are costly, too. If you have selected a design with lots of detail, then select a fabric that is plain, so that the detail will show. If the design has pressed pleats, then the fabric must be firm. Soft, loosely woven fabrics will do for the unpressed pleat and for shirring and gathering. The selection of the right fabric can make your sewing easier. Be sure that the fabric is suitable to your pattern or design. Very heavy or bulky fabric is difficult to work with. Pressing it may be difficult, too. Very smooth, glossy fabrics are hard to handle. For instance, the embossed cottons Study carefully your cutting chart and the guide sheet that comes with your pattern. Every minute that you spend studying the chart will help you to save time when you are ready to put the garment together. In your second year you were told to avoid plaids and stripes because they are difficult to put together. Possibly you would like to use a plaid or stripes now. If so, you need to know how to cut out the plaid or striped dress. If you select a plaid, you need to buy extra material so that you can match the plaid where necessary. If you bought a balanced plaid, your problems will be less difficult. The black and white check is an example of balanced design. To decide whether or not a plaid is balanced, take the center of the major design, fold from right to left to any like center design and from top to bottom. If they overlap exactly, then the design is balanced. Your first plaid should be a balanced plaid, as you are less likely to make a mistake in cutting. 1. Plan to lay your pattern so that the most prominent line of the design or center of plaid, if large, is centered at center front. waist, and hip measurements. Since you probably have grown since you took your last measurements, you will need to take them again. Select the pattern that comes nearest to your measurements. The clerk at the pattern counter will help you in rinding the correct pattern size. All pattern companies have been using a new measurement chart since June 1956. You will note that now there are patterns available for: 1. Girls 4. Teens 2. Chubbies 5. Juniors 3. Sub-teens 6. Misses Compare your measurements to the chest, bust, waist, length of waist measurements of the different patterns. Buy your pattern from the group that comes nearest to your own measurements. You will probably have to make some alterations, but with the new sizing and your correct selection, only very little alteration should be needed. Make Your Pattern Fit Your dress will fit if you take time to change your pattern before you cut your material If you don't do this, then you probably will have much ripping to do. Do you have a dress that seems to fit you just right? If you do, use it to check on the measurements of your pattern. Lay your dress out flat on a table and record the measurements as shown below. Measure the pattern at the same points. Sleet e (measure across the sleeve at the top of the underarm seam) Garment Pattern Alteration Skirt (measure waistline and for hips 7 inches below the waistline) Garment Pattern Alteration Waist front Waist back Hip front Hip back Skirt Length At the righthand side under "Alteration" you have entered how much you will need to alter the pattern. Remember, your pattern is only one half of the garment measurements. This means you will need to multiply pattern measurements by 2 for the width measurements you have taken. Your pattern tells you how to change length measurements. Follow your pattern for making these changes. Here are some suggestions for altering the width measurements. To Make the Bust Smaller or Larger: Make a straight line parallel to center front from shoulder to waistline near the front dartline. (See drawing below). Waist length (measure from center of shoulder line) Garment Pattern Alteration Front Back Width measurements (measure from center front and center back to the side seam at 2 inches below the armpit) Garment Pattern Alteration Front Back —9— center front, and underarm darts downwards. H — Make bound buttonholes if pattern calls for them. Machine made buttonholes can be made after finishing the garment. Waist Back A — Stay stitch like waist front. B — Stitch in darts. C — Mark center back with 2-inch basting at neckline and waistline. Blouse A — Join shoulder seams from neck to shoulder. Back should be eased to front. B — Attach collar to blouse or finish neckline. C — Sew side seams from underarm to waistline. D — Set in sleeves; possibly with a machine basting for first fitting. Units of Skirt Collar A — Stay stitch top and left side in zipA — Mark center of collar; baste stitch. per area. B — Stitch together undercollar and inB — Put in darts or gathers. terfacing. Then put top collar and under C — Mark center front and center back. collar together. D — Put in pockets. C — Press seam open. E — Stitch panels together from bottom D — Stitch the under edge of the seam of skirt to top. down. This keeps the edge from rolling. F — If it is a separate skirt, put in E — Trim the edges to Vs inch. placket or zipper and finish waistband. F — Press and then stay stitch the inFit blouse and skirt separately. Finish side neckline curves together. the dress: Sleeve A — Join blouse to skirt. A — Put elbow darts in sleeve if sleeve B — Finish placket. is long. C — Mark andfinishhem. B — Make two lines of continuous D — Make machine made buttonholes stitching Y/k inch apart and with seam al- (finish back of bound buttonholes). lowance line in center of rows of stitching. E — Sew on buttons. C— Sew underarm seam; press. F — Make belt — put on keepers. D — Apply cuff or hem. G — Give final pressing. se lAJitlt \sonvertiklc Most girls have as part of their wardrobe a sport shirt or blouse. The collar is convertible, and the blouse has various types of pockets and set-in sleeves. In making this garment you will learn two definite things: (1) How to set in sleeves; (2) How to make a convertible collar. Select a cotton fabric and a pattern that meet the two requirements listed above. Follow the "Unit System of Work" on page 10 for making your blouse. <JL lay There are several methods used in making the convertible collar. We will use a simple method applicable to lightweight cotton fabrics. Your pattern may have a separate facing to be stitched to the center front, or it may be cut with the front of the blouse. Follow your pattern guide carefully in cutting the facing. Be sure it is cut grain-line true. — 11- Ice Cream: Use cold water, then lukewarm suds. If it is dry, use cleaning fluid first. If this does not get rid of it, use (5) Soap will often set a stain. powdered sodium perborate. Dampen it Many spots on white or even on colored and rub into the spot. l e t stand 1 hour cotton fabric can be removed with a and then remove. Pepsin powder may bleach, either a chlorine bleach or sodium need to be used to dissolve the protein perborate. But the colored fabric must in the milk. be vat-dyed and you must proceed very Lipstick: Cleaning fluid first will recarefully in order not to remove the back- move the oil. Then sponge with warm ground dye. suds. If the color remains, use diluted deHere are a few common stains and natured alcohol. Inks: There are so many different their removal. If you wish to study this types of ink that it is usually safer to send further, ask your Home Demonstration Agent for the U.S.D.A. Farmers Bulle- the dress to a reliable dry cleaner. Do not allow the ink to dry. First try cold water, tin No. 1474 "Stain Removal." then a detergent Never use a bleach. Grease Stains: Carbon tetrachloride /Coffee and Tea: Use boiling water, will dissolve grease and oil. Use it carethen detergent or soap. fully. Do not breathe the fumes as you work. AH Fats and Oils: Use carbon tetraFruit Stains: Boiling water removes chloride, then warm water and soap. most fruit stains from cotton. Stretch stained area over a bowl and allow boil/Chewing Gum and Bubble Gum: ing water to fall on it with force. The Remove by chilling the spot with ice. exceptions are cherry, peach, pear, and Then sponge with cleaning fluid. plum. (4) Never iron over a spot; you are apt to set it. IJotd ama iJomr J3ress on from other cotton garments. Wash with mild soap and soft or softened water. \~~slean "Well When you have finished your garment it may be slightly soiled. It should be washed and ironed and perfectly clean when ready to be exhibited. If your dress happens to be dark cotton, it should not be washed with the family wash. It will need to be laundered separately so that it will not pick up lint Be careful about exposing your colored dresses to Arizona sunlight. It would be best to dry them in the shade. Starch is necessary "m some of your cottons. If the label told you that the fabric was permanently stiff or starched, you should not use a starch. If your fabrk has one of the glazed finishes, or design made by the finish, such as Picolay, do not use a bleach on it. -26- You have made a lovely dress. You have selected the fight color and design. All is perfect until you put it on What do you do for the dress? Smartness in dress depends upon how you wear a garment. The way that you carry yourself and move your body from top to toe is important to the appearance that you make. The way that you walk, sit, and stand makes such a difference. Poor posture creates many difficult fitting problems. Round and sagging shoulders, one high and one low hip, cause fitting problems. Begin early to practice good posture and maintain this posture throughout your growing years. Good food, plenty of rest and adequate exercises are important, too, in making for correct muscle tone to keep good posture. Practice the Following 1 Place the back of a chair so close to a wall that you will have to squeeze through. As you do this note that you draw in the abdomen and fold the hips down under. Now push the head up as if it were holding a load Try walking in this manner. 2. As you pass store windows note your walk, your head, and your arms. What kind of a posture do you have going down the street? If you walk correctly from daily habit, you will not need to fear walking in a dress revue. You will stand tall, Jpull and stretch upward until you actually feel tall. The chest will be high, tummy in and hips tucked under. The shoulders will be free and easy. Check Your Posture Swing your legs freely from your hips, not from the knees. Keep your toes pointed straight ahead with your weight on the outside of the foot. As you show off your dress: Which of these do you look like? Good L 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Head up Chin in Shoulders straight Chest high Abdomen in and flat Hips tucked under Knees slightly relaxed Weight over ankles 1. Let your arms swing lightly at the sides. 2. Pause in front of the guests to let them see your garment. Smile. Your feet will not be together. Your weight should be on the ball of the forward foot. Poor 1. Head forward 2. Shoulders rounded 3. Chest lowered 4. Abdomen relaxed and protruding 5. Hips thrown back 6. Back curves extremely exaggerated 7. Weight on heels Good posture cannot be attained over night. It calls for constant practice. It is the result of every day habits of movement. 3. You will then be ready to turn easily. As you turn, bring your hands to the front together at the waistline. You will show the back of the garment. 4. As you make the next turn, allow your hands to swing to the si3e. How Do You Walk and Sit? Little habits that we make when walking and sitting make us graceful Of awk- — 28 — ward. Try to improve your posture by making good habits. with the "tummy." This causes swayback and protruding tummy. When you walk, balance your weight from one foot to the other, shifting the weight from the hips. Point your toes straight ahead. Your knees should be slightly flexed. Pick up your feet. Do not shuffle your feet along. Carry your head erect as if you were supporting a weight on top of your head. When you sit, sit well back in your chair so that the hips are against the back of the chair and the upper part of the body is held upright. Your feet are flat on the floor, one slightly ahead of the other, (never crossed if you are on a stage). When you get up from a chair place one foot forward, bend the trunk slightly and push up with thigh and leg, letting muscles do the work. When you stand, as you will in a dress revue, balance your weight evenly or stand with one foot slightly ahead of the other. Some models stand with the heel of one foot at an angle to the arch of the other. Your weight will fall on the ankle bone. It will not be on your heels or your toes. Walk as though your legs were going in front of you. Test your walking habits by standing up to a flat wall (barefoot), with your back against the wall and hips touching it, and your feet one inch from the baseboard. Start walking. Do you lead with your head and shoulders or your hips and legs? Or do you sag forward at the waist as you step off and drag your shoulders along after you? Now try again. This time keep your upper body in balance. Head high over chest, chest over the thigh bones. Slightly lift the knee and thigh bone. Let your thigh lead. Note some of our graceful dancers. As they move, the first walking move that they make is to lift the thigh, with knee limber so that it swings the leg forward gracefully. Be sure that you are not confusing thigh leading by leading Good Grooming Counts It doesn't take lots of money to make a good appearance and attract attention of others. It does take a little time. Do you budget your time so that you can spend 15 to 20 minutes each night and each morning with grooming habits? In the morning do you take time for brushing teeth, combing hair, using deodorant, arranging hair and make-up? Or do you get up so late that you fling on your clothes, and comb your hair and put on make-up on the way to school? At night do you plan your time to wash your teeth; wash your face; put up stray locks of hair that need attention; take care of the bare legs with lotion and see that they are attractive if you go without hose, free from hair and skin smooth, not chapped? Once a week you will probably spend at least 2 hours washing your hair, manicuring your hands, pedicuring your feet. Then there is clothing care that will probably take an hour's time — pressing your clothes and laundering some of them yourself if they can not be done with the family laundry. — 29 — cJLJewionstratina Learning to give demonstrations is a part of your club work. Any and all of the things you have learned will make good demonstrations. 1. How to put in a zipper. (Team) 2. How to put interfacing into a collar. 3. How to check sitting and walking posture. Your leader will help you plan easy, 4. How to adjust tension for cotton simple demonstrations to be given, in your club. When you are given such an as- thread. signment, take advantage of the oppor5. How to mark pattern marking onto tunity. After you have shown others how fabric. (Team) to do something, you probably will always 6. How to set in a sleeve. (Team) remember how to do the job. 7. How to put on mending tape. Someday you will be interested in giving good team demonstrations at achievement days. Only through practice in giving simple indivdual demonstrations do you become good at it. 9 Using your machine for basting and tying threads. Here is a list of demonstrations. You may think of others. 10. How to put waist and skirt together. (Team) <-J\~eepin pin& 8. Putting on a convertible collar. Cjour On the record sheet in this book (pages 31 and 32) you will keep a record of all the things that you have done in your 4-H sewing program. These records may .mean much to you in future years of club work. Your work is not finished until you have made a complete record and shown it to your leader. Do a good job! JZct's JHaL a 2)ress .Age_ NAMERural Route_ Town . Box No- Club NameLeader's Signature at Completion Yes No Selection: (Check) What colors do you like best for yourself? Did you read the label on cotton? Was it vat dyed? Was it sanforized or pre-shrunk? Did it have a special finish? Equipment: Did you use the cording foot? Did you learn to adjust tensions? Did you add to your sewing equipment? Tailor's chalk Dressmaker's carbon Tracing wheel You have made: 1. Blouse Yes No Did it have set-in sleeves? __ Did you learn to put in convertible collar? _ 2 Dress — Cotton Did it have set-in sleeves? _ Was it put together at waistline? _ Did you put in a zipper? _ Did you learn to use interfacing? __ Was your pattern the correct size? — Did you need to alter your pattern? — Did you make the belt and cover the buckle? - Does your dress fit you? _ Care: Did you learn to put on press-on mending tape? — Did you learn to press cottons on wrong side? _ — 31 —
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