Snapper 1600, 1650, 1855 Lawn Mower User Manual

SERVICE MANUAL
for
SNABBER!
1600, 1650, 1855
GARDEN TRACTORS
& MOWER ATTACHMENTS
SNAPPER POWER EQUIPMENT x
MeDonough,GA+ 30253 | 7 2x8 #07005
SERVICE SECTION INDEX
SECTION # & COVERAGE SECTION # & COVERAGE
1 SHEET METAL, PANELS, SEAT 6 ENGINE TROUBLE SHOOT & REMOVAL
2 STEERING, FRONT AXLES & WHEELS 7 ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
3 BRAKING & TRANSMISSION CONTROLS | 8 FUEL SYSTEMS
4 TRANSMISSIONS, REAR AXLES & 9 POWER TAKE OFF SYSTEMS
WHEELS 10 MOWERS & MOWER DRIVES
5 HYDRAULIC LIFT SYSTEMS
SECTION 1 — SHEET METAL & OPERATOR'S SEAT
INTRODUCTION
Removal of items such as the console cover, rear tender, side panels and hood will be
required in certain repair situations to gain complete access to other tractor components. De-
tailed instructions for removal and reinstallation of these items plus the operator's seat are
covered in this first section only. Where removal is required in the following sections, it will be
mentioned briefly as one of the procedural steps.
CONSOLE COVER
Removal of the console cover allows ac-
cess to the clutch-brake interlocks, mid-
mount implement hydraulic lift cylinder,
steering gear and other items. The cover is
quickly removed as follows:
STEP 1: Turn the knob in counterclockwise di-
rection and remove from the gearshift or
speed control lever.
STEP 2: Use screwdriver to remove the four
phillips head screws securing the cover to
the side panels and lift the cover off.
STEP 3: Reverse the foregoing procedure to
reinstall the cover after making necessary
repairs or adjustments.
REAR FENDER
Limited access to components located un-
der the center of the rear fender can be gain-
ed by raising the seat and lifting the tool tray
ou? of the recess in the fender. For complete Ce mr |
access, remove the fender with the opera- o 4 o A a
tor's seat attached as follows:
| FIG. 1.2 -- CONSOLE-1650 8: 1855
STEP 1: Disconnect electrical leads at the ter-
minals to the tail-lights, seat interlocks and
rear P.T.O. interlocks if so equipped.
STEP 2: Turn the knobs off the levers on the Ш
control console on right side of the fender.
TRE E сх
STEP 3: Slide the operator's seat into full for-
ward position then raise the seat and remove
the two bolts at the rear of the seat rails.
STEP 4: Remove the four carriage bolts secur-
ing the lower front edges of the fender to the
step plates. ae
STEP 5: Lift the fender-seat assembly off the
frame. After making necessary repairs, re-
verse the foregoing procedure to reinstall — A
the fender and reconnect wiring. FIG. 1.3-- FENDER/SEAT-1600 SERIES
1.1 3
SEAT & SEAT RAILS
If the operators seat has to be replaced
simply tilt it forward and remove the four
flange lock bolts securing the seat to the
hinge frame assembly, install the replace-
ment seat and secure with the same hard-
ware. If seat rail replacement is required,
proceed as follows:
STEP 1: Separate the seat from the fender by
removing one of the retaining rings from the
end of the seat pivot pin then pull the pin and
remove the seat. |
STEP 2: Remove the two bolts securing each
rail to the fender and the bolt at front secur-
ing the seat pivot frame to the rail. Replace
the rail or rails and reverse the foregoing
procedure to reassemble the components.
FIG. 1.4 ~ FENDER & SEAT ASSEMBLY
DETAIL - 1650 & 1855 SERIES
INSTRUMENT (DASH COWL) PANEL
The steering wheel must be pulled to re-
place the instrument panel. Refer to section
two for steering wheel removal procedure.
Atter pulling the steering wheel, lift the hood
and proceed as follows to replace the instru-
ment panel.
STEP 1: Disconnect and remove the ammeter
and hourmeter if so equipped.
STEP 2: Disconnect throttle and choke cables
and pull cables out of the panel.
STEP 3: Remove retaining nuts from the
choke, ignition and PTO switches. Turn the
knob off the speed control lever.
STEP 4: Use a phillips head screwdriver to re-
move the four screws securing the panel to
the pedestal frame then remove the panel.
Reverse the foregoing procedure to install
the replacement panel and to reassemble
the instruments and controls.
1.2
FIG. 1.5 INSTRUMENT PANEL DETAIL
1. AMMETER 4. IGNITION
2. PTO SWITCH 5. THROTTLE
3. CHOKE 6. HOURMETER (OPTION)
HOOD & GRILLE
Tilting the hood full forward usually pro-
vides sufficient access for most front area
works, however, it is easily from the tractor
as follows: |
STEP 1: Tilt the hood assembly forward and
unplug the headlight wires at the terminals.
STEP 2: Tilt the hood backward enough to
take tension off the stop cable, then pull the
hair pin from the clip and disconnect the
cable.
STEP 3: With the hood tilted forward, lift up-
ward and pull forward until the tilt hinges on
both sides clear the slots in the frame front
cross member.
STEP 4: If the grille is to be removed, turn the
flange locknuts off the seven studs welded to
the forward edges of the hood. Disengage
the studs from the grille tabs and separate
these items. The screen can now be removed
from the inside of the grille if required.
Reverse the foregoing procedure to reassem-
ble and reinstall hood components.
FIG. 1.6 ~ ACCESS WITH HOOD FORWARD
7
SIDE PANELS & STEP PLATES
The step plates do not normally have to be
removed except for replacement purposes.
Each step plate is attached to the rear fender
at two points and to the frame at two points.
To replace, simply remove these fasteners,
install the replacement plate and secure with
the same fasteners.
The side panels are often removed for ac-
cess to other components inside the tractor
frame. These are easily removed as follows:
STEP 1: Remove the console cover as describ-
ed earlier in the section.
STEP 2: Each panel attaches to the frame at
three points. Remove the three flange lock
bolts (weldnuts on inside of frame) and lift
the upward and outward to remove.
NOTE: When removing the right side panel
on 1600 series, it will be necessary to detach
the litt lever from the shaft before pulling the
panel.
STEP 3: Reverse the foregoing steps to rein-
stall the side panels.
& SU PPORT(2)
& ATTACHMENT(1)
FIG. 1.12 - 1600 RIGHT PANEL (2)
FIG. 1.101600 LIFT LEVER SCREWS (1)
SERVICE NOTES - SECTIONS 1 & 2
EE.
SECTION 2 - STEERING, & FRONT AXLE & WHEELS
The steering gear assembly used on the 1600 and 1650 series tractors is different than that used on the 1855 models. Because
of this, the two types are described separately on the following pages of this section. The front power take-off is considered
part of the front axle pivot on the 1855 and is therefore covered with the 1855 steering portion starting on page 2.5. The
1600-1650 series steering components are covered on pages 2.1—2.4.
STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL (1600-1650)
1. Disconnect battery cables.
2. Remove fuel tank.
3. Remove cover over drive shaft and re-
move side shields.
4. Disconnect choke cable at engine.
5. Remove wire plug from ignition switch
and PTO control switch.
6. Disconnect ammeter wires.
7. Remove steering wheel.
8. Remove retaining screws and lift instru- FIG. 2.1 — STEERING GEAR LOCATION
ment panel off tractor.
| , , 1. STEERING GEAR RETAINING BOLTS.
9. Disconnect hydraulic cylinder bracket 2. HYDRAULIC CYLINDER BRACKET.
and lower cylinder down as far as possible.
Fig. 2.1.
10. Remove retaining bolts and lift steer-
ing gear assembly out.
INSTALLATION (1600-1650)
1. Position steering gear assembly in place
and secure with retaining bolts. Figs. 2.1 &
2.2.
2. Connect hydraulic cylinder bracket to
frame with retaining bolts. Fig. 2.2.
3. Install instrument panel in place and se-
cure with retaining screws. FIG. 2.2 — HYDRAULIC CYLINDER LOCATION
4. Reconnect wires to ignition switch, PTO
switch and ammeter. Fig. 2.3. 1. STEERING GEAR HOUSING (1600-1650).
2. HYDRAULIC CYLINDER BRACKET.
NOTE: Green wire connects to (plus) side
of ammeter and red wire to (minus) side.
5. Install steering wheel and fuel tank.
6. Install side shields and cover over drive
shaft.
7. Connect battery cables.
DISASSEMBLY (1600-1650)
Refer to Fig. 2.4 and proceed as follows:
1. Remove locknut and retaining nut from
steering arm and remove arm, felt seal and
retainer.
2. Remove adjusting nut and slide shaft FIG. 2.3 — INSTRUMENT PANEL DISCONNECT
and bearing from housing. 1. IGNITION SWITCH. 2. PTO SWITCH.
) . 3. AMMETER NEGATIVE. 4. AMMETER POSITIVE.
3. Remove upper bearing from housing.
2.1 7
10
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. PRE-LOAD NUT.
. STEERING ARM.
SEAL.
. HOUSING.
. BEARING CUP (2)
SHAFT.
. BEARINGS (2).
. CONE WASHER.
. COTTER-PIN.
0. ADJUST. STUD.
HOONONAGN-
2.5—— GEAR COMPONENTS
REASSEMBLY (1600-1650)
Refer to Fig. 2.5 for identification of parts
and proceed as follows:
1. Lubricate bearings and insert one cup
and bearing into gear housing.
2. Slide steering shaft into gear housing,
followed with another bearing cone and cup.
3. Install adjusting nut and tighten until
steering shaft has a slight bind when turned,
Fig. 2.6. At this point adjust nut until shaft
has no end-play with no binding when turn-
ed. Secure adjusting nut with cotter key.
4. Install bearing at upper end of shaft and
tube.
FIG. 2.6 -- SHAFT PRE—LOAD SETTING
2.2
5. Loosen adjusting screw in steering arm
and install arm into housing with seal and re-
tainer in place.
6. Install washer and one retaining nut on
steering arm shaft. Tighten nut until steering
arm has no binding or end-play. Secure re-
taining nut in this position with locknut.
7. Turn in on adjusting screw until a slight
drag is felt on steering shaft at mid range of
steering (this would be a straight ahead posi-
tion of front wheels).
8. Back out adjusting screw to eliminate
any binding of steering shaft and secure in
this position with locknut, Fig. 2.7
1. CENTERING ADJUSTMENT.
2. LOCKNUT
FIG. 2.7 -- STEERING GEAR ADJUSTMENT
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FRONT AXLE AND LINKAGE (1600-1650)
1. BELLCRANK ARM. 2. RETAINING CAPSCREW. 1. GREASE FITTING. 2. LOWER BEARING.
3. THRUST WASHER. 3. UPPER BEARING.
FIG. 2.8 — STEERING BELLCRANK DETAIL FIG. 2.9 — BELLCRANK BEARINGS IN PLACE
STEERING LINKAGE | —
The steering linkage consist of a drag link,
bellcrank arm assembly and two tie rods.
Check all connections and pivot points for
looseness. Tie rod and drag link ends are ball
socket type and are replaceable. Bellcrank
arm has two replaceable bearings.
BELLCRANK ARM AND BEARING REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect drag links from bellcrank.
2. Remove retaining bolt and slide bell-
crank off Fig. 2.8.
3. Remove old bearings and install new
bearings flush with outside surface Fig. 2.9.
4. Install bellcrank and secure with retain-
ing bolt, Fig. 2.8.
5. Connect drag links.
FIG. 2.11 — REMOVING AXLE PIVOT BUSHING FIG. 2.12 — INSTALLING PIVOT BUSHINGS
2.3 7
FIG. 2.13 — REMOVING SPINDLE BUSHINGS
AXLE PIVOT BUSHING REPLACEMENT
1. Remove mower drive idler at front of
tractor. Fig. 2.10.
2. Remove wheels and spindles.
3. Remove nut at rear on retaining bolt and
remove bolt.
4. Lower axle and remove pivot pin.
5. Remove bushings from axle. Fig. 2.11.
6. Install new bushings, Fig. 2.13.
7. Reinstall axle onto tractor.
SPINDLE ARM BUSHING REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect tie rod from spindle arm.
2. Remove retaining ring at upper end of
spindle and remove spindle.
3. Remove spindle bushings. Fig. 2.13
4. Install new bushings, Fig. 2.14.
> Reinstall spindle arm and connect tie
rod.
FIG. 2.15 — USE PULLER TO REMOVE WHEEL
299
9
FIG. 2.14 — INSTALLING SPINDLE BUSHINGS
WHEEL BEARING REPLACEMENT (1600-1650)
1. Remove wheel and drive bearings out
from inside of wheel with a suitable punch.
2. Install bearings with flange of bearing
against outside of wheel hub.
3. Reinstall wheel on axle and secure with
retaining bolt.
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING TOE-IN (1600-
1650)
Before adjusting toe-in, be sure tie rods
are of equal length.
Adjust toe-in so the distance between front
of wheels measure 1/8" less than at back.
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FIG. 2.16 — REINSTALLING STEERING GEAR
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1855 SERIES STEERING, FRONT AXLE AND FRONT PTO
1. TIMING MARKS. 2. SECTOR SHAFT. 3. STEERING ARM.
AN
FIG. 2.17 — STEERING ARM LOCATION ON 1855 SERIES
STEERING GEAR ASSEMBLY (1855)
REMOVAL (1855)
1. Disconnect battery and remove wire
connector from ignition switch.
2. Use a suitable pulley and remove steer-
ing wheel, Fig. 2.15.
3. Remove panel over drive shaft and side
panels on each side of tractor.
4. Disconnect drag link and remove arm
from steering sector shaft.
5. Remove bolts securing instrument panel
in place.
6. Remove bolts securing steering gear
and work assembly down and out toward
right side of tractor. Fig. 2.16.
INSTALLATION (1853)
1. Work steering gear up from right side of
tractor and into place as shown in Fig. 2.16.
2. Secure steering gear assembly into
place with retaining bolts.
3. Install steering arm while aligning
timing marks. Fig. 2.17. And secure with re-
taining washer and nut.
4. Install bolts securing instrument panel.
5. Install steering wheel, side panels and
panel over drive shaft.
6. Install wire terminal on ignition switch
and connect battery cables to battery.
1. LOCK
2. O-RING.
3. ADJ. NUT
4. HOUSING.
5. BRG. CUP (2).
6. SHAFT.
7. BEARINGS (2).
8. SECTOR SHAFT.
9. COVER PLATE.
FIG. 2.18 — 1855 SERIES STEERING GEAR COMPONENTS
2.5
//
FIG. 2.19 — PRE—LOAD SETTING ON 1855 SHAFT BEARINGS
DISASSEMBLY (1855)
1. Remove capscrews securing plate and
remove plate.
2. Slide sector shaft from housing.
REASSEMBLY (1855)
1. Lubricate both bearings and insert one
cup and bearing cone into gear housing,
followed with another bearing cone and cup.
2. Install adjusting nut and tighten until
steering shaft has a slight bind when turned.
Fig. 2.19. At this point adjust nut until shaft
has no end-play with no binding when turn-
ed. Secure adjusting nut with lock.
3. Install bearing, seal and retainer over
upper end of shaft and into housing.
4. Fill cavity in housing with a good grade
of lithium base grease and install sector
shaft. ©
5. Position gasket and plate over shaft and
secure with retaining bolts. Fig. 2.20.
6. Adjust steering gear back lash as
follows:
a. Turn in on adjusting screw until a
slight drag is felt on steering shaft at mid
range of steering (this would be a straight
ahead position of front wheels)
b. Adjust screw by turning in or out to
eliminate any binding and secure in this posi-
tion with lock nut.
1. CENTER ADJUSTING STUD. 2. LOCKNUT.
FIG. 2.20 — 1855 SERIES STEERING SHAFT ADJUSTMENT
2.6
1A
FRONT AXLE AND FRONT PTO (1855)
Front power take-off is part of front axle pivot on
the 1855 series therefore servicing of these units are
together.
REMOVAL (1855)
1. Remove front pulley shield and remove
drive belts.
2. Remove retaining ring and remove
pulley. Fig. 2.21.
3. Unscrew large nut and bearing assem-
bly off axle mounting sleeve and slide off.
Fig. 2.22.
4. Remove retaining ring from shaft. Fig.
2.23.
5. Remove large nut from rear of axle
mounting sleeve and slide PTO shaft with nut
and bearing out rearward. Fig. 2.24.
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FIG. 2.21 — REMOVING FRONT PULLEY
6. Disconnect drag link from steering pivot
and attach a suitable lifting device to raise
tractor.
7. Raise tractor enough to remove pres-
sure on axle and remove mounting sleeve.
Fig. 2.25.
8. Continue raising tractor and remove
axle, thrust washers and pivot tube. Fig.
2.26.
9. Inspect bushings if worn, remove old
bushings and install new ones flush with
machined surface of axle. Fig. 2.27.
10. Install bushings in bellcrank arm flush
with machined surface. Fig. 2.28.
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1. NUT & BEARING ASSEMBLY. 2. AXLE sLEÉVE.
3. PTO SHAFT. _ N NI
FIG. 2.22 — FRONT PTO BEARING PARTS
>
\ Л PALSY
FIG. 2.23 — REMOVING RETAINING RING
FIG. 2.24 — PULLING FRONT PTO SHAFT
2.7 13
FLAT SURFACE.
FIG. 2.25 — REMOVING FRONT AXLE FIG. 2.27 — PIVOT BUSHING IN PLACE
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FIG. 2.26 — THRUST WASHER & PIVOT TUBE FIG. 2.28 — REMOVING BELLCRANK
1. PULLEY.
2. PTO SHAFT.
3. MTG. SLEEVE.
4. PIVOT TUBE.
5. RET. RING.
6. BEARING.
7. NUT.
‘8. THRUST WASHERS.
9. NUT/BEARING ASSY.
OT IO
FIG. 2.29 — 1855 SERIES FRONT PTO & AXLE PIVOT PARTS
2.8 7
FIG. 2.30 — PTO REAR NUT & BEARING
1. PTO SHAFT. 2. NUT & BEARING ASSEMBLY.
3. RETAINING RING.
INSTALLATION (1855)
1. Place pivot tube in axle and position
thrust washers on end of tube. Fig. 2.30.
2. Lower tractor over axle pivot tube and
thrust washers as shown in Fig. 2.26.
3. Install axle mounting sleeve with flat on
sleeve down and rearward. Fig. 2.25.
4. Install rear nut and bearing assembly on
PTO shatt and install retaining ring in groove
on shaft. Fig. 2.30.
5. Install shaft into axle mounting tube at
rear. Fig. 2.24.
6. Secure shaft in place by turning nut and -
bearing onto threaded end of axle mounting
tube.
7. Position shaft so retaining ring can be in-
stalled at front. Fig. 2.31.
8. Install nut and bearing over front end of
PTO shaft and tighten both large nuts secure-
ly.
1. DOUBLE PULLEY. 2. RETAINING RING. 3. PTO SHAFT.
FIG. 2.31 — FRONT PULLEY REINSTALLER
FIG. 2.32 — LOWER SPINDLE BUSHING
9. Install double pulley and secure with re-
taining ring.
10. Connect drag link to bellcrank and
tighten nut securely.
SPINDLE ARM BUSHING REPLACEMENT (1855
SERIES)
1. Remove wheel and disconnect tie rod
from spindle arm.
2. Remove retaining ring at upper end of
spindle and remove spindle.
3. Remove upper bushing and reinstall
new one flush with machined surface of axle.
4. Drive lower bearing out and reinstall
new. Figs. 2.32.and 2.33.
5. Reinstall spindle, connect tie rod and in-
stall wheel.
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——
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FIG. 2.33 — INSTALLING LOWER SPINDLE BUSHING
15
WHEEL BEARING REPLACEMENT (1855)
1. Remove wheel and clean bearings with
a suitable solvent. Remove old grease from
inside of hub.
2. Inspect bearings and seals for wear.
Replace as required.
3. Pack each bearing with Lithium Base
grease. Install inner bearing in wheel and in-
stall new seal with lip of seal toward bear-
ing.
4. Pack grease between lips of seal and
bearing.
5. Install wheel on spindle and tighten re-
taining nut 15-20 ft. lbs. while rotating
wheel.
6. Install retainer on nut so that castella-
tions are aligned with cotter pin hole.
7. Back off nut and retainer one castella-
tion and secure with cotter pin.
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING TOE-IN (1855)
Adjust toe-in so the distance between front
of wheels measure 1/8" less than at back.
Adjust by loosening tie rod lock nuts and
FIG. 2.34 -- 1855 SERIES TOE- IN SETTING
turning tie rod. 1. TIE-ROD. 2. LOCKNUT. 3. BALL JOINT.
2.10 /©
SECTION 3 - BRAKES & HYDROSTATIC DRIVE CONTROLS
On the 1600 series tractors, braking is provided by left pedal activated brake band which clamps around a dru
on the transaxle to brake the tractor. The adjustment and service procedure for the 1600 series is covered a
pages 3.5 and 3.6. On tractors with hydrostactic drive, braking action is provided by the forward/reverse pedal ac-
tivated drive system when the engine is running and by the left pedal operated disc brake mechanism when the
engine is off. This also serves as a parking brake when engaged by the parking brake-speed selector lever. Brake
service on the hydrostatic drive equiped 1650 and 1855 series tractor is covered in first part of this section.
BRAKE SERVICE NS 1
To gain access for brake service, it will be necessary
to remove the center console, left side panel and the
rear fender-seat assembly. To do this, remove the
control knobs. The console is secured to the frame
with four phillips head screws. The left side panel is
attached to the frame with three flange lock bolts
which are turned into locknuts on the inside of the
frame. To remove the fender-seat assembly, discon- NOTE: LARGE
nect the tail light and seat interlock leads, slide the SERVICE OPENING
seat full forward and remove the two bolts at rear of
the seat rails then remove the four carriage bolts
holding the fender to the step plates and lift the
fender/seat off the tractor. Use kit #6-0538 for brake
repairs on hydrostatic drive tractors.
I
BRAKE ASSEMBLY
RETAINING BOLTS
— BRAKE STOP
(SEE NOTE-STEP 4) — \ |
[и — /
BRAKE SPRING
COTTER PIN =
IN FRAME
-— DISC N A
WIRE HOOK ©
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IN
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)
NUMBERED.
NX
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4 TRANSMISSION
FIG. 3.1--BRAKE SPRING & STOP DETAIL
1. Block front wheels and jack rear of tractor up FIG. 3.3--BRAKE DISC INSTALLATION
and remove the left rear wheel.
| CALIPER
2. Disconnect the brake spring from the cotter pin ASSEMBLY
in tractor frame (Figure 3.1).
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the brake > |
assembly to the transmission (Figure 3.2). с НЯ
4. Pull the brake disc toward the outside and N A NN | à
remove the inside brake pad from behind the > 'a
disc. inspect the brake disc surface condition. ~ We < 77
Replace disc if badly warped, scored or pitted. Gi ”
NOTE: If the brake disc has to be replaced, it
will be necessary to saw 3/8” off the end of the |
brake stop stud which is welded to the frame |
directly behind the brake actuating arm as PINS(2) - (FLAT ENDS TOWARD
shown in figure 3.1. The brake assembly also PRESSURE PLATE)
has to be removed. This requires the large ac- |
cess hole shown in figure 3.2. FIG. 3.4-INSPECT CALIPER PINS
3.1 17
Apply a small amount of non-hardening
adhesive to the numbered side of the 1/4 inch
pad from kit to secure the pad in the transmis-
sion. Use a strip of duct tape about 12 inches
long to suspend the new 1/4 inch pad behind
the disc and position the pad into the recess in
the transmission case (Figure 3.3). Push the
disc in toward the transmission to hold the pad
in position then remove the tape. Inspect to
make sure there is not tape left on the pad that
will interfere with later adjustments.
Remove the 1/2 inch brake pad from the brake
caliper assembly and inspect the caliper
assembly to make sure that the pins move free-
ly and that actuater linkage has adequate
freedom of movement for positive braking
operation (Figure 3.4). Make sure flat end of
pins are installed toward the pressure plate.
NOTE: If pins do not move freely, remove and
clean before proceeding further. Lubricate the
pins with dry graphite.
Insert the metal pressure plate into the brake
assembly then install the new 1/2 inch brake
pad with numbers facing away from the brake
disc (Figure 3.5). Position the brake assembly
on the transmission and reinstall the mounting
olts.
Reconnect the brake spring to the cotter pin in
tractor frame (Figure 3.1).
1/2 "РАО
PRESSURE
PLATE
THRUST
И
PUSH и \ ©
FIG. 3.5-BRAKE COMPONENT SEQUENCE
9. Remove the nut from the brake adjusting stud
and install the slotted nut from kit in its place
(Figure 3.8). Do not install cotter pin at this
time.
1. PARKING PEDAL 5. PEDAL LINK SHAFT 9. BRAKE DISC
2. PARKING BRAKE LEVER 6. ENGAGING SLEEVE 10. HI-LO SHIFT LEVER
3. ADJUSTER LINK 7. BRAKE ROD NUT 11. RETURN SPRING
4. BRAKE ROD 8. BRAKE ASSEMBLY 12. PARK LEVER SPRING
FIG. 3.6--LOCATION OF BRAKING SYSTEM COMPONENTS (HYDROSTATIC DRIVE UNITS)
3.2 73
BRAKE
ADJUSTING - BRAKE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
STUD |
A VA 1. Inspect the brake rod and make sure the cotter
pin is secure in the end of the rod. Back the nut
LEFT on the brake rod (Figure 3.6-item 7) to the end of
O WHEEL the rod and shift the parking brake shift lever
HUB
FIG. 3.7- .BRAKE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
SLOTTED
NUT
Ya" COTTER
PIN
08
FIG. 3.8-ADD SPACER WASHERS AS REQUIRED
WASHER(S)
AS REQUIRED
(Figure 3.6-item 2) out of park. Next, place the
HI-LO shift lever in neutral.
With the right wheel on the ground or otherwise
secured to prevent rotation, turn the left rear
wheel hub while tightening the nut on the brake
adjusting stud until the wheel hub can no
longer be turned (Figure 3.7). This achieves zero
clearance between the brake pads and the disc.
Now, back off on the adjusting nut 1/2 turn and
secure the nut with a 3/32x3/4 cotter pin
through the hole in the adjusting stud then
bend the cotter pin to secure (Figure 3.8).
NOTE: It may be necessary to add washers (pro-
vided in kit) behind the adjusting nut to insure
that the cotter pin is securely engaged in the
slot of the nut.
All tractors shipped after November, 1980 have
heat treated parking brake levers (item 2, Figure
3.6). If the tractor involved does not have a heat
treated lever or if there is any doubt whether it
is heat treated, replace the lever with the one
provided in brake kit. To replace, disconnect
the park lever spring, remove the cotter pin or
retaining ring and remove the lever. Install the
kit lever and secure with 1/8x3/4 cotter pin.
Replace the park lever spring.
Place the parking brake lever in the park posi-
tion.
BRAKE ROD
ENGAGING SLEEVE
(=>
HEX NUT NN
JAM NUT \
ADJUSTER
<> MN LINK
A a
1/8" CLEARANCE
Ue,
Sf HEAD OF
ie =
EPR — “JAM NUT
~ DA WELDNUT
FIG. 3.9-BRAKE ENGAGING SLEEVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
3.3 1
WU Ц
CTOR
Depress the left pedal and hold all the way
down. Adjust the selector link adjuster screw
(igure 3.6-item 3) until there is zero clearance
between the end of the screw and the selector
link.
After making the selector link adjustment, if the
adjuster screw does not appear to hit squarely
against the selector link, it wili be necessary to
replace the adjuster screw with a 5/16x1-1/4 hex
head bolt (Figure 3.9). Loosen the jam nut on
the adjuster screw and remove the screw. In-
stall the hex head bolt and jam nut with the
head of the bolt toward the selector link to in-
crease the area of contact between the adjust-
ment bolt and the selector link. Make adjust-
ment as previously described and lock jam nut.
Place the parking brake brake lever into the
first speed notch and tighten the nut on the end
of the brake rod until there is 1/8 inch clearance
between the nut on the rod and the brake
engaging sleeve of the linkage (Figure 3.9). In-
stall and lock a jam nut against the brake rod
nut.
TEST BRAKES by placing tractor on level sur-
face. With engine off, HI-LO shift lever in
neutral and parking brake set, attempt to roll
tires by pushing tractor. If tires roll, brake must
be readjusted.
FIG. 3.11--CONTROLS LEVERS LOCATION
1. Mid-Mount. 2. Three Point Hitch.
3. HI-LO Shifter. 4. Rear P.T.O.
3.4
FIG. 3.12--FORWARD/REVERSE PEDAL
HYDROSTATIC DRIVE CONTROL
On tractors with hydrostatic transmission, the for-
ward/reverse pedal on tie right side controls the
direction of travel. The tractor should move forward
when the forward or toe of the foot pushes the pedal
down and rearward when the heel pushes the lower
part of the pedal down. When the heel or toes are not
pressing against the pedal, the tractor should stop
and remain stationary provided the engine is runn-
ing. The Parking brake pedal and lever on left side
must be engaged to brake and keep the tractor sta-
tionary when the engine is stopped.
Before attempting to adjust the transmission
linkage on hydrostatic drive tractors, perform
follong checks;
1. Start tractor.
2. Place rear axle shift lever in low speed range.
3. Release neutral return and brake pedal.
4. Place right foot on heel and toe pedal.
5. Tilt right foot to rotate toe end of pedal downward.
Tractor should travel forward.
6. Remove foot from pedal, tractor should stop and
remain stopped.
7. Place right foot on pedal and tilt foot to rotate heel
end of pedal downward. Tractor should travel rear-
ward.
8. Remove foot from pedal, tractor should stop and
remain stopped.
lula
FIG. 3.13-TRANSMISSION SHIFT ADJUSTMENT
1. Adjuster. 2. Retainer. 3. Cotter Pin.
AO
LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS
1.
Block tractor up so that rear wheels are free to
rotate.
Loosen nut on end of brake rod to end of rod.
Place speed control/parking brake lever in park
position.
Depress clutch/brake pedal down against step
plate. Adjust selector link adjuster screw to ob-
tain zero clearance between end of screw and
selector link, then tighten jam lock nut.
Raise tractor seat and clamp safety switch to
hold circuit closed so engine will start.
Depress directional control pedal forward and
backward to insure no binding occurs in pedal
or linkage.
FIG. 3.14--FORWARD/REVERSE PEDAL LINKAGE
10.
1. Linkage Adjustment.
Remove cotter pin and retainer from transmis-
sion adjuster stud. |
Start engine, shift speed control lever out of
park and axle shift lever in gear.
Turn adjuster in one direction until wheels
rotate then while counting complete turns of
adjuster stud, turn adjuster in opposite direc-
tion until wheels rotate in opposite direction.
Back up half the number of complete turns
counted to place the transmission in a neutral
position. The wheels should not rotate in either
direction in neutral.
Make a final check of adjustments as follows:
A. Depress forward end of control pedal.
Wheels must rotate in forward direction.
Remove pressure from pedal allowing it to
return to neutral automatically. Wheels must
stop rotation within seven seconds.
B. Depress reverse end of control pedal.
Wheels must rotate in rearward direction.
Remove pressure from pedal allowing it to
return to neutral automatically. Wheels must
stop within seven seconds.
bn
FIG. 3.15--1600 CLUTCH/BRAKE PEDAL ENGAGED
1. Pedal down. 2. Brake Lever Up.
11. Readjust nut on brake rod as follows:
A. Place speed selector lever in first speed
~ hotch of speed selector detent. (Brake rod ad-
justing lock nut should be making no contact
with brake engaging sleeve in this position.)
B. Adjust the nut on the brake rod so that the
engaging sleeve will make contact with the
brake rod nut when the speed selector lever is
1/4 inch below the first speed notch.
12. Adjust forward/reverse linkage to obtain
operator's desired pedal position.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT (1600 SERIES)
|
1. Depress clutch-brake pedal, No. 1, Fig. 3.15, and
engage parking brake lever, No. 2.
2. If lever will not engage, raise Tractor seat, remove
tool box. |
3. With clutch-brake pedal, No. 1, Fig. 3.16, in up
position, increase clearance between bolt head, No.
5, Fig. 3.17, and brake arm, No. 4. Repeat Step 1 and
readjust if necessary. Tighten jam nut, No. 3.
FIG. 3.16--1600 CLUTCH/BRAKE PEDAL RELEASED
1. Pedal up 2. Brake Lever down
3.5 A
BRAKE SERVICE - 1600 SERIES
Access to brake components on 1600 series tractors
is gained by tilting the operator's seat forward and
removing the tool tray. However, when brake band or
drum replacement is required, it may be easier to
jack the back of the tractor up and to remove the left
rear wheel. If the brake does not function properly
after readjusting as described on page 3.5, the band
is probably worn excessively. Replace as follows:
1. Release parking brake to relieve tension on the
brake band.
2. Remove the retaining ring securing the actuator
rod to the brake lever and detach the rod.
3. Pull the cotter pin from the clevis pin holding the
forward loop of the brake band to the brake lever and
pull the pin.
FIG. 3.17--1600 BRAKE ADUSTMENT POINTS
1. Brake Actuater Rod. 2. Brake Band. 3. Jam Nut.
4. Brake Arm. 5. Bolt Head.
4. Remove the retainers and pull the pin holding the
lever link and rear loop of the band to the lever. The
band can now be removed and replaced. Before
replacing, carefully inspect the surface of the brake
Sum If excessively worn replace as described in
step 5. |
5. The brake drum is keyed to the transaxle and is
held in position by a retaining ring. Remove the ring
and use a puller to separate the drum from the tran.
saxle. Reverse the foregoing to install replacement
drum and/or brake band. Readjust brake after replac-
ing.
3.6 212
SECTION 4 — TRANSMISSION, REAR AXLES & WHEELS
The first segment of this section covers the overhaul and repair of the transaxle and gearbox
drive used on the 1600 series tractors. The hydrostatic transmission used on the 1650 and 1855
series is covered in the second segment.
A lifting device such as block and chain will be required to raise the tractor frame off the trans-
mission — rear wheel assembly after these units are separated.
1600 SERIES
TRANSAXLE AND GEARBOX
The transmission and rear axle assembly
(transaxle) is driven by a “V” belt through a
gear box. This part of the manual is divided
into two parts, transaxle and gearbox. The
transaxle has 4 speeds forward and 1 speed
reverse.
TRANSAXLE REMOVAL
1. Disconnect wires and remove rear fen-
der and seat assembly.
2. Remove drive belt from transaxle pulley
and disconnect brake linkage at brake. Fig.
4.1. | ‘
3. Attach a suitable lifting device to tractor
frame. .
4. Remove transaxle retaining bolts. Fig.
4.1.
5. Raise tractor and remove transaxle as-
sembly from tractor. Fig. 4.2.
TRANSAXLE INSTALLATION
1. Position transaxle under tractor as
shown in Fig. 4.2 and lower tractor into
place.
2. Install retaining bolts and tighten sec-
urely. Fig. 4.1. |
3. Install belt and reconnect brake linkage.
4. Install rear fender and seat assembly
and reconnect wires.
TRANSAXLE DISASSEMBLY AND
REASSEMBLY
1. Shift transmission to neutral and remove
shift lever. Fig. 4.3.
2. Remove both axle housings.
3. Block up transmission so that no pres-
sure is in brake shaft with case side facing
up. Fig. 4.4.
4. Cap dowel pins out of case into cover
and remove bolts.
5. Lift case 1-1/2 to 2 inches above cover,
tilt so case will clear shift rods, rotate case
and remove from cover and gears. Fig. 4.4.
4.1
FIG. 4.3-TRANSAXLE SHIFT REMOVED
23
FIG. 4.7-DIFFERENTIAL PARTS SEQUENCE
FIG. 4.4-PULLING TRANSAXLE |
1. Axle. 2. Carrier. 3. Side Gear. 4. Ret. Ring.
5. Ring Gear. 6. Pinions & Shaft. 7. Washer
8. Washer. 9. Washer. 10. Bearing.
1. Shifter Rods.
2. Transaxle Case.
3. Transaxle Cover.
FIG. 4.5- TRANSAXLE GEARS & SHAFTS FIG. 4.8-SHAFT DETAIL
1. Differential. 2. Output Shaft. 3. Brake Shaft. 1. Differential Assembly.
4. Shift Rods. 5. Shifter Shatt. 6. Reverse Idler. 2. Output Shaft. 3. Shifter Shaft.
7. 2-Cluster Gear. 8. 3-Cluster Gear. 9. Low Gear Shaft. 4. Brake Shaft. 5. 2-Cluster Gear.
FIG. 4.9-LOW GEAR AND SHAFT
FIG. 4.6-GEAR CASE BEARINGS
4.2 2%
FIG. 4.10-SHIFT RODS AND GEARS
6. Refer to Fig. 4.5 and remove the follow-
ing:
9 a. Thrust washer and 3 gear cluster from
brake shaft.
b. Reverse idler gear and shaft.
c. Hold shifter assembly together and lift
out.
d. Low gear and shaft.
e. 2 cluster gear from brake shaft.
f. differential assembly.
g. Output Shaft.
h. brake shaft. В
i. Input shaft and bearing.
7. Inspect all parts for wear or damage,
replace as required. Replace all seals and
gaskets. If bearings require replacement,
position bearing cage flush with machined
surface of bearing cage flush with machined
surface of bearing bore and press against let-
tered side of bearing. Fig. 4.6.
If differential requires any servicing refer
to Fig. 4.7 for identification and sequence of
parts.
8. Install input shaft into case. Use a soft
mallet to seat shaft completely in cover.
4
FIG. 4.11-REVERSE IDLER SHAFT & GEAR
1. 3-Cluster Gear. 2. Reverse Idler Gear & Shaft.
FIG. 4.12-AXLE HOUSING INSTALLATION
9. Refer to Fig. 4.8 and install the
following:
a. Brake shaft and 2 cluster gear.
b. Output shaft and gear.
c. Differential assembly with bolt heads
away from output gear.
d. Shifter shaft.
10. Install low gear and shaft. Fig. 4.9.
11. Hold shifter assembly together and in-
stall over shaft and into cover, Fig. 4.10.
12. Install 3 gear cluster and reverse idler
shaft and gear, Fig. 4.11.
13. Work case around gears by tilting and
rotating and install in place, Fig. 4.4 and sec-
ure with retaining bolts.
NOTE: If case and cover does not go com-
pletely together, rotate input shaft to cause
gears to mesh. Case should drop to about 1/4
inch from cover.
14. Install axle housing and secure with re-
taining bolts. Fig. 4.12.
15. Install shim washes and hub, Fig. 4.13.
Add or remove shims to eliminate axle end-
play.
16. Fill transaxle to level plug with SAE-EP
90 transmission oil.
FIG. 4.13-SHIMS ELIMINATE END PLAY
4.3 215
FIG. 4.14-GEARBOX LOCATION
1. Gear Box. 2. Drive Belt.
1600 GEARBOX
1. Remove cover over drive shaft and re-
move belt from gear box pulley.
2. Remove bolts securing gear box to trac-
tor frame.
3. Remove gear box from beneath tractor
Fig. 24.
4. To reinstall gear box proceed as follows:
a. Position gear box in place as shown in
Fig. 4.14, |
b. Install bolts and tighten securely. Fig.
4.15.
Gearbox Disassembly
1. Remove gearbox from tractor and
remove pulley.
2. Punch two small holes in output shaft
seal with a sharp punch as close to outer
edge as possible. Do not drill these holes or
bearing below seal could be damaged.
3. Install two metal screws into these
holes. Fig. 4.16.
4. Pry seal out of housing with a suitable
bar or screwdriver.
5. Remove cover and seal from over input
shaft. Fig. 4.17.
i ZT i
FIG. 4.15-GEARBOX RETAINING BOLT
1. Drive Belt. 2. Coupling. 3. Retaining Bolts.
6. Pull input shaft and bearing out of hous-
ing and gear as shown in Fig. 4.18.
7. Remove snap ring from output shaft as
shown in Fig. 4.19.
8. Remove output gear, bearing and shaft
from housing.
9. Remove snap ring and remove gear and
bearing from output shaft. Fig. 4.20.
10. If the other bearing for the input shaft
requires removal, heat housing and remove
bearing.
Gearbox Reassembly
See Fig. 4.21
1. Heat housing and install input shaft
bearing, if removed. Fig. 4.22.
2. Assemble bearing and gear on output
shaft and secure with retaining ring, Fig.
4,20.
FIG. 4.16-GEARBOX ASSEMBLY
3. Install output shaft into housing as
shown in Fig. 4.23.
4. Hold output shaft in place and install
snap ring, as shown in Fig. 4.9.
5. Carefully slide seal over output shaft
and install into housing. Drive seal. into
housing until it is flush with housing. Fig.
4.24.
6. Install input shaft with bearing into
housing and gear, as shown in Fig. 4.18.
7. Install new seal into input shaft cover
.040 to .050” below flush.
8. Install cover and seal with gasket over
input shaft and secure with retaining bolts.
9. Fill case with approximately 4 oz. of
moly EP lithium grease.
4.4 26
FIG. 4.18-PULLING INPUT SHAFT FIG. 4.22-INPUT SHAFT BEARING
FIG. 4.23-OUTPUT SHAFT INSTALLATION
FIG. 4.20-GEAR RETAINING SNAP RING FIG. 4.24-OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL INSTALLED
4.5 47
HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION (1650 & 1855 SERIES)
This hydrostatic transmission is composed
of four major components: A charge pump, a
variable displacement radial ball-piston
pump, a fixed displacement radial ball-piston
motor and a system of valves located bet-
ween the pump and motor.
The charge pump draws oil from the rear
axle housing and performs three functions:
1. Maintains pressure (30-50 psi) on the
low pressure side of the circuit to charge the
variable displacement pump.
2. Supplies oil lost due to internal leakage
in the loop circuit.
3. Provides a source of auxiliary hydraulic
power to operate double-acting cylinders.
The variable displacement ball-piston
pump consists of five “free” ball-pistons,
each contained in a single piece five bore
rotor unit. Like the charge pump, it is con-
CHARGE PUMP
DISCHARGE
EATON TRANSMISSION. Cm
7
/
INLET
FAN
trols the amount of oil being pumped by in-
finate movement from neutral to a maximum
off center position.
The fixed displacement ball-piston motor is
similar in appearance to the pump. Its cam
ring is permanently fixed in an off center
position. The motor turns only when the
pump is pumping oil and since the pump can
pump oil in either direction, it can make the
motor rotate in either direction, it can make
the motor rotate in either direction. Also, sin-
ce the pump output volume of oil can be con-
trolled by the pump cam ring it can make the
motor turn fast or slow and any infinate
speed in between.
The motor is connected to the rear axle in-
put shaft and thus the Tractor moves for-
ward, backward, slowly or swiftly.
4 WAY OPEN CENTER
VALVE WITH RELIEF
VALVE BUILT IN
CYLINDER
CHARGE PUMP ACTING
INTAKE
CONTROL
SHAFT
TRANSAXLE
> „7 —— e
>
—--
—— FILTER
FIG. 4.25-SCHEMATIC OF HYDROSTATIC DRIVE SYSTEM
stant running unless disconnected from the
engine. The ball-pistons travel within a
radius controlled by a moveable cam ring.
The cam ring is controlled by the operator.
When the cam ring is centered around the
rotor unit the ball-pistons do not move in or
out within the bores thus, no pumping action
takes place and the transmission is con-
sidered to be in neutral. Moving the cam ring
off center around the rotor unit will cause the
ball-pistons to move in and out within their
bores and oil will be pumped.
Since the cam ring can be moved off center
in either direction from neutral, the pump
can pump oil in either direction without a
change in rotation. The cam ring also con-
The valve system located between the
pump and motor consists of check valves, ac-
celeration valves, a charge pump relief valve
and dampening pistons. Fig. 4.25 shows the
complete hydraulic circuit on the Tractor. On
3-point hitch equipped tractors there would
be an extra valve, cylinder and two con-
necting lines.
IMPORTANT NOTE
This transmission does not contain an im-
plement relief valve. Implement relief valve
is located in the auxiliary hydraulic control
valve.
4.6 5
FIG. 4.26-FORWARD/REVERSE LINKAGE
1. Adjustable links.
LINKAGE CHECKS
Before attempting to adjust transmission
linkage, perform following checks:
1. Start tractor
2. Place rear axle shift lever in low speed
range
3. Release neutral return and brake pedal.
4. Place right foot on heel and toe pedal
5. Tilt right foot to rotate toe end of pedal
downward. Tractor should travel forward.
6. Remove foot from pedal, tractor should
stop and remain stopped.
7. Place right foot on pedal and tilt foot to
rotate heel end of pedal downward. Tractor
should travel rearward.
8. Remove foot from pedal, tractor should
stop and remain stopped.
9. Drive tractor forward at maximum
speed, then flip rear axle shift lever to
neutral position and depress neutral return
brake pedal. Rear wheels should slide.
FIG. 4.27-LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT POINTS
LINKAGE ADJUSTMENTS
1. Block tractor up so that rear wheels are
free to rotate.
2. Loosen nut on brake rod to end of rod
Fig. 4.26.
3. Place speed control/parking brake lever
in park position.
4. Depress clutch/brake pedal against step
plate.
Adjust screw no. 3 Fig. 4.27 to obtain zero
clearance between end of screw and selector
link, then tighten lock nut.
5. Raise tractor seat and clamp safety swit-
ch to hold circuit closed so engine will start.
6. Remove cotter pin and retainer from ad-
juster. Fig. 87.
7. Start engine, shift speed control lever
out of park and axle shift lever in gear.
FIG. 4. 28. TRANSMISSION SHIFT ADJUSTMENTS
1. Shift Adjuster. 2. Retainer. 3. Cotter Pin.
8. Turn adjuster no. 1, Fig. 4.28 in one
direction until wheels rotate then turn adjust-
er in opposite direction until wheels rotate in
other direction. Place adjuster in center of
these two turns. (This is a neutral position
and wheels should not rotate)
9. Make final check of adjustments as
follows:
a. Depress forward end of forward-
reverse pedal. Wheels must rotate in for-
ward direction. Remove pressure from pedal
allowing it to return to neutral automatically.
Wheels must stop within seven seconds.
b. Depress reverse end of forward-
reverse pedal. Wheels must rotate in rear-
ward direction. Remove pressure from pedal
allowing it to return to neutral automatically.
Wheels must stop within seven seconds.
10. Readjust nut on brake rod as outlined
under heading “Brake adjustment”
1. Adjust Forward/Reverse linkage Fig.
4.26 to obtain pedal position to suit operator.
29
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
1. Place speed control/parking brake lever
in park position.
2. Loosen nut no. 2 Fig. 4.27 at end of
brake rod.
3. Tighten nut no. 1 Fig. 4.29 to eliminate
clearance between brake pucks and disc
then back off one-half turn. This provices ap-
proximately .020" running clearance for
brake disc.
4. With speed control lever in park
position, pull brake rod forward with 10-20
Ibs. tension and tighten brake rod nut again-
st tubular guide. Continue to tighten nut two
additional turns.
- BRAKE
ADJUSTING
7 STUD
LEFT
WHEEL
FIG. 4.29-BRAKE PUCK ADJUSTMENT
TRANSMISSION TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Problem
Possible Cause
Tractor will travel one direction but not the
other
Check valve stuck or out of position
Control shaft inboard bearing web broken.
| Control shaft spacer bent or broken
Control shaft dowel-pin out of position
One acceleration valve stuck open
Control linkage out of adjustment
Tractor will not move either direction.
Axle in neutral
Control linkage broken or disconnected
Control shaft dowel pin broken
Output shaft dowel pin broken
Oil supply lost
Oil filter blocked
Restriction, such as plastic caps or plugs in oil
circuit
‘Erratic tractor motion travel demand
Erratic check valve
Malfunctioning acceleration valves
Output torque trails off after short operating
period
Loss of oil
Filter restricted
Restriction, such as plastic caps or plugs in oil
circuit
Oil temperature in excess of 180 degrees F.
caused by overloading.
4.8 36
TRANSMISSION TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE (continued)
Problem
- Possible Cause
Output Torque Trails Off, Etc.
(Continued)
Cooling fan inoperative or ineffective
because of foreign material such as grass
blocking air flow thru cooling fins.
Water in oil ©
Internal leakage between ball-pistons and
bores, leakage between rotor and pintle
journal
Output torque "not as good as new”
Loss of engine power
Internal leakage due to wear
Control linkage needs adjustment
Engine lugged to a stall — input shaft will not
turn
Pump seized to pintle
Ball-piston seized in bore
Loss of charge pump pressure
Loss of oil
Scored charge pump cam, carrier or plate
Loose charge pump mounting bolts
Restriction, such as plastic caps or plugs in
charge pump inlet circut
Implement relief valve in auxiliary hydraulic
control valve defective or incorrectly set
Oil leaks
Porous or cracked castings
Oil seals defective
Oil line connections loose or defective
Back pressure due to non-ventilated rear
axle | | |
Noise
NOTE: Complaint in most cases is personal
opinion which cannot be resolved as the fault
of the transmission. Noise that forcasts
failure should be given serious attention.
Worn control linkage
Stuck check or acceleration valves
Motor bushing rotated
Worn motor bushing
Aeration — Cavitation
a. Loose fittings
b. Improper filter installation
c. Restriction in charge pump inlet line
Excessive load
a. Incorrect brake release
b. Defective final drive train in rear axle
Low on oil or water in oil.
4.9 3!
1650, 1855 TRANSMISSION REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
FIG. 4.30-CLUTCH/BRAKE ROD DISCONNECTED
1. Control Arm. 2. Clutch Pedal Arm.
REMOVAL
Rear axle and transmission should be
removed from tractor as an assembly. To
remove proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect rear light wires and wires
from seat safety switch.
2. Remove bolt at rear of each seat slide
and bolts from rear of step plates.
3. Remove knobs from controls and lift
seat and rear fender assembly off tractor.
4. Remove dress panel over drive shaft.
5. Disconnect clutch/brake control rod at
front. Fig. 4.30.
6. Disconnect Forward/Reverse pedal link-
age at rear, Fig. 4.31.
7. Remove three point hitch if equipped,
Fig. 4.32, as follows:
a. Disconnect
housings.
b. Disconnect check chains at front end
of chains.
c. Unhook hydraulic cylinder from rock
shaft.
d. Remove bolts securing rock shaft
brackets to tractor and remove complete
three point hitch.
lower links at axle
FIG. 4.31-FORWARD/REVERSE LINKAGE
1. Linkage. 2. Shift Arm.
4.10
FIG. 4.32-THREE-POINT HITCH PARTS
1. Bracket Bolts (4 2. Hydraulic Lift Cylinder.
3. Rock Shaft. 4. Lower Link Pin. 5. Check Chain.
8. Remove four bolts securing plate or PTO
belt cover, if equipped with PTO to tractor
frame, Fig. 4.33.
9. If tractor is equipped with PTO refer to
Fig. 4.34 and proceed as follows:
a. Remove bolts securing rear plate and
bearing assembly in place.
b. Remove PTO assembly from tractor.
10. Disconnect brake return spring from
cotter key at left rear of tractor frame and re-
move PTO plate assembly, if equipped. Fig.
4.35.
11. Disconnect wires from clutch/brake
safety switch.
12. Block front axle pivot tó prevent tractor
from tipping and attach a suitable lifting
device to rear frame.
13. Remove bolts securing mounting plate
at axle housing and frame.
14. Remove bolts and spacers at upper
side of transaxle.
NOTE: Spacers at upper side of transaxle are
different lengths. Right spacer is longer and
is identified by a groove around it.
FIG. 4.33-REAR PTO COVER
2 1. Belt Guide Pin (Early Models). 2. Cover.
2.
FIG. 4.34-PULLING REAR PTO
1. Rear PTO Shaft. 2. Rear Plate & Bearing.
15. Place foot on drawbar and maneuver
assembly out while raising tractor frame Fig.
4.36.
16. Continue rolling unit out and place
block under tansmission. Fig. 4.37.
INSTALLATION
1. Raise tractor frame and maneuver trans-
mission and axle assembly into place. Fig.
4.36.
2. Bolt axle housings to frame using adap-
ter plates.
3. Install bolts and spacers at upper side of
transaxle — Longest spacer on right side
identitied by a groove around it.
4. Connect wires to clutch/brake safety
switch.
FIG. 4.36-LOWERING TRACTOR ON TRANSAXLE
5. Connect brake return spring. Fig. 4.35.
6. If equipped install PTO and align coupler
between engine and shaft. Fig. 4.34.
7. Install rear plate or belt cover to rear of
frame. If belt cover be sure belt guide in
cover is on outside of belts. Fig. 4.33.
8. Install three point hitch, if equipped.
9. Connect torward/reverse pedal linkage
at rear. Fig. 4.31. |
10. Connect clutch/brake control rod at
front. Fig. 4.30.
11. Install dress panel over drive shaft.
12. Install rear fender assembly, control
knobs, connect wires to seat safety switch
and rear lights.
FIG. 4.35-BRAKE RETURN SPRING
1. Brake Return Spring. 2. PTO Mounting Plate.
FIG. 4.37- TRANSMISSION INSTALLED
33
TRANSMISSION OVERAL & REPAIR
IMPORTANT!
Do not start disassembling this transmission without
following these instructions. The ballpistons are
select fit in each bore and must not be mixed. These
ball-pistons can fall out of the rotor if precaustions
are not taken during rotor removal. If that happens a
new ball-piston and rotor assembly must be installed.
NOTE: Cap all open ports and thoroughly clean trans-
mission externally before disassembly. A fast drying
agent that is not harmful to lip seal rubber, gaskets
or plastic is recommended.
Air pressure may be used for cleaning or
drying provided high pressure is not directed
at lip seals. Work area must be clean; fresh
clean paper is suggested to cover work ben-
ch or table for layout of parts.
FIG. 4.38-SEAL SLEEVE TOOL
OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT
The transmission input shaft oil seal and
the control shaft oil seal can be replaced
without disassembly of the transmission,
however transmission should be removed
from the Tractor and cleaned externally
before attempting seal replacement. Either
seal may be removed by piercing it with a
narrow sharp tool.
NOTE: Care must be exercised not to damage the
shafts or seal counterbores during seal removal.
Also, care must be taken when removing the control
arm from the control shaft as internal damage can oc-
cur if arm is pried or driven severly. A suitable puller
is recommended.
New seals should be installed using seal,
sleeve tool, Fig. 4.38. The seal lip must be
toward the inside and it is recommended that
the outside diameter of the seal be coated
with a thin coat of Loctite prior to in-
stallation.
FIG. 4.39-EATON #1100-031 TRANSMISSION
1. Grass Shield. 2. Retaining Bolts (5).
DISASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION
NOTE: A block of wood 2”'x6”x10” with a 3/4”
hole in the center is recommended as a stand.
1. Position transmission in stand with input
shaft up.
2. Remove grass shield, No. 1, Fig. 4.39,
and then remove five bolts, No. 2, noting
location of long bolt.
3. Lift off charge pump body being careful
not to damage oil seal noting position of six
rolls, No. 1 Fig. 4.40.
4. Before removing the roll carrier,
carefully note its position on the pump shaft
as it can be installed incorrectly. The leading
surface of the roll carrier will form a straight
line to the center of the pump shaft when it is
FIG. 4.40-CHARGE PUMP CARRIER & ROLLS (6)
1. Charge Pump Carrier Rolls (6).
4.12 Zr
FIG. 4.41-PUMP ROTATION INDICATOR
1. Rotational Direction Arrow.
2. Reference line.
correctly installed, note rotation of pump,
No. 1, Fig. 4.41, and straight line, No. 2.
Remove snap ring, No. 3, to remove roll
carrier. |
5. When roll carrier, No. 1, Fig. 4.42, is lif-
ted off note position of carrier drive pin, No.
2. Be extra careful in removing this pin. It is
round and loose. fitting and may be easily
dropped. | | |
6. Remove pump plate, No. 1, Fig. 4.43,
noting "O" - ring, No. 2.
NOTE: If no further disassembly of the tran-
smission is needed the charge pump may now be rep-
aired as necessary and re-assembled.
FIG. 4.43-PUMP PLATE & O-RING
1. Pump Piate Removed. 2. O-Ring.
7. Repair charge pump as necessary noting
the following.
a. If pump plate is scored, it must be
replaced along with rolls, roll carrier and
pump body as a set.
b. It is recommended that new “o” - rings
be installed on both sides of the pump plate
during reassembly. One "0" - ring is located
in groove, No. 2, Fig. 4.43 and the other is in
groove, No. 2, Fig. 4.44.
c. Check for excessive wear between
bushing, No. 1, Fig. 4.44, in charge pump and
input shaft. Specified clearance is .0013" to
.0033". Replace parts as necessary.
FIG. 4.42-CARRIER DRIVE PIN
1. Roll Carrier. 2. Carrier Drive Pin.
FIG. 4.44-CHARGE PUMP BUSHING & O-RING
1. Charge Pump Bushing. 2. O-Ring.
4.13 35
FIG. 4.45-OUTPUT SHAFT SIDE UP FIG. 4.48-PINTLE VALVE BODY
1. Housing Retaining Screws 1. Pintle Assembly Body.
FIG. 4.46-MOTOR ROTOR BALL-PISTONS FIG. 4.49-CAM RING & PUMP RACE
1. Rubber Band. 2. Motor Rotor. 1. Cam Ring & Race. 2. Ring Insert.
FIG. 4.47-LETTER STAMPING ON ROTOR FIG. 4.50-CAM RING WEAR BUTTONS
1. Location of Letter Stamping. 1. Wear Button Location (2).
4.14 36
NOTE: The input shaft cannot be replaced without
complete disassembly of transmission. If further dis-
assembly is necessary follow the next steps.
8. Invert transmission on wood block so
that output shaft is up as shown in Fig. 4.45,
NOTE: Be sure transmission is level and stable on
the wood block.
9. Remove two cap screws, No. 1, Fig. 4.45,
and then re-install about two threads.
10. The cast iron assembly is now ready for
initial separation from the aluminum body. If
possible lift the cast iron assembly to the
limit of the cap screw stops. If difficulty is en-
countered in separating the two components
use a plastic hammer to tap the components
to break the fluid seal.
When the seal is broken, remove cap
screws and very gently lift off the cast iron
assembly.
11. Being careful not to disturb the tran-
smission place a strong rubber band, No. 1,
Fig. 4.46, around the motor rotor to prevent
the ball-pistons from falling out.
12. The motor rotor assembly may now be
lifted out but extra care should be exercised
in handling.
13. Select an egg carton and number two
rows of five holes.
14. Locate a letter, No. 1, Fig. 4.47, stam-
ped on the face of the rotor.
15. Working clockwise from the letter
remove ball-pistons one at a time and place
in egg carton.
16. The pintle assembly (valve body). No.
—1, Fig. 4.48 may now be lifted from the
aluminum body.
17. The pump rotor assembly is now ready
to be lifted out exercising the caution and
method to hodl the ball-pistons in place as
with the motor rotor.
18. Locate letter, stamped on the face of
the pump rotor.
19. Working clockwise from the letter,
remove the ball-pistons one at a time and
place them in egg carton.
20. The cam ring and pump race assembly,
No. 1, Fig. 4.49, may now be lifted out noting
carefully the position of cam ring insert, No.
2. (The thin wall end of the insert must
always be positioned outboard).
21. With the pump cam ring now removed
the inside of the aluminum body is now expo-
sed, Fig. 4.50. Note that there are two but-
tons. No. 1, loose fitting in holes in the
aluminum body. The buttons serve to prevent
the cam ring from contacting the aluminum
cover.
REASSEMBLY OF TRANSMISSION
Reassembly of this transmission is the
reverse of disassembly. It is during this
procedure that final examination of all parts
should be made and replacements installed
as necessary. Following is recommended
procedure for reassembly.
1. Examine aluminum body for any eviden-
ce of cracks and if found replace body.
2. Inspect for excessive clearance between
input shaft and aluminum body bushing.
Specified clearance is .0013” to .0033”. If
clearance is excessive replace body as bush-
4.15
ing is not replaceable.
3. Remove snap ring, No. 1, Fig. 4.51, from
input shaft, No. 2, and slide shaft inward. In-
spect input shaft assembly, Fig. 4.52, for ex-
cessive wear and replace if necessary.
FIG. 4.51- INPUT SHAFT SNAP RING
1. input Shaft Snap Ring Location.
2. Input Shaft.
4. Inspect cam ring dowel pin, No. 1, Fig.
4.53, in aluminum body. If loose, body must
be replaced.
5. Inspect control shaft assembly, in cover,
If shaft is excessively loose in the cover it is
highly probable that a new cover will be
required.
6. Examine pump ball-piston race in cam
ring. If scored, cam ring and race assembly
must be replaced.
7. Examine pump rotor bores and ball-
pistons for any evidence of scoring, pitting,
contamination, or excessive wear and
replace if necessary.
37
FIG. 4.52-CHECK INPUT SHAFT
NOTE: Rotor and ball-pistons must be replace as a
matched set. The ball-pistons are select fit to their
own individual bores electronically from .0002”” to
0006” clearance.
8. Examine pintle (valve body) assembly
axternally for any damage. If any damage is
avident on the shaft portion that passes
through the rotors re-check inside both
rotors for possible related damage. Check
bearing in output shaft end for possible
damage or excessive wear and replace as
necessary. (Bearing can be removed by
hydraulic shunt.)
NOTE: Do not remove the two pipe plugs at the
other end of the pintle shaft, they are solid body
9. It is usually not necessary to remove the
charge relief valve located in the outer cir-
cumference of the pintle as shown in Fig.
4.56, to remove it, remove plug, No. 1, Fig.
4.56. Inspect spring, No. 2, for bends. Inspect
ball, No. 3, and seat in pintle for pitting or
grooves.
FIG. 4.53-CAM RING & CONTROL SHAFT
1. Cam Ring Dowel Pin.
10. Н is usually not necessary to remove
the two check valves located in pintle bores
as shown in Fig. 4.57. The check valve balls
must roll free in the pintle bore by their own
weight. If the pintle is shaken the balls can
be heard if they are rolling free. To remove
the check vaves proceed as follows:
4.16
a. Remove spiral pin, No. 1, Fig. 4.58.
b. Using a tap as shown in Fig. 4.58, tap
the hole in the valve bodies and use a bolt or
puller to withdraw valve bodies from bores.
c. Remove balls and inspect for pitting or
grooves.
d. Fig. 4.59 shows check valves
removed, No. 1, spiral pin, No. 2, retaining
rings, No. 3, balls, No. 4, valve bodies.
11. The acceleration valves will not nor-
mally requaire service. They are located in
the pintle circumference 180 degrees from
the check valves as shown in No. 1, Fig. 4.60.
NOTE: The check valves must be removed before
the acceleration valves can be removed.
To remove proceed as follows:
a. Remove check valves.
b. Remove pin, No. 2, Fig. 4.60
c. Obtain a 3/16" rod about 8" long and
insert it through the check valve
passageways in the pintle,
d. Tap lightly on the rod to push out balls,
valves and springs.
e. Removed components are shown in Fig.
4.61, No. 1, springs, No. 2, valves, No. 3 balls
and No. 4, retaining pin.
12. Remove and check dampening pistons
if necessary. They are located as shown in
Fig. 4.62. To remove, hold pintle with pistons
away from you and facing down. Tap outside
edge of pintle on work bench firmly being
careful not to strike shaft portion on any-
thing. If this does not dislodge pistons, they
more than likely do not need service. But, if
they are scored on the surface and need re-
placement, they may be removed by cement-
ing a bolt to the face of the piston as shown
in Fig. 4.62 and pulling straight out. The
pistons are reversible, however the "O" rings
and back-up rings on the pistons must be in-
stalled so that the back-up rings are toward
the outside. |
13. Inspect motor rotor and ball-pistons for
damage in the same manner as the pump
rotor.
38
FIG. 4.58-SPIRAL PIN REMOVED
FIG. 4.55-CHARGE RELIEF VALVE LOCATION FIG. 4.59-CHECK VALVE PARTS
1. Valves. 2. Rings. 3. Balls. 4. Bodies.
FIG. 4.56-RELIEF VALVE PARTS
1. Plug. 2. Spring. 3. Ball
FIG. 4.60-ACCELERATION VALVE (2) LOCATION
1. Check Valves. 2. Acceleration Valves.
FIG. 4.57-CHECK VALVE LOCATION (2) FIG. 4.61-ACCELERATION VALVE PARTS
4.17 37
FIG. 4.62-PINTLE DAMPENING PISTONS
14. Inspect motor ball-piston race, Fig.
4.63, in cast iron body for possible damage
and replace if necessary using suitable puller
and press.
15. Inspect output shaft assembly, Fig. 4.64
and replace if damaged or excessively worn.
It is a slightly press fit in the bearing and can
be removed by tapping inward. The shaft
cannot be reinstalled without using Tool No.
1145, however, the output shaft bearing
must be remove to permit usage of tool.
To remove bearing, remove retaining ring,
No. 1, Fig. 4.65 and tap bearing out. The oil
seal, No. 1, Fig. 4.66 is located inboard from
the bearing and its lip must be positioned to-
ward the inboard. After output shaft is in-
stalled support the inboard end on a block of
wood and reinstall bearing.
After transmission has been completely
reassembled it must be filled with oil before
reinstalling in Tractor.
FIG. 4.63-CHECK MOTOR BALL PISTON RACE
FIG. 4.64-CHECK OUTPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
FIG. 4.65-OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING
1. Output Shaft Bearing Retaining Ring.
FIG. 4.66-OUTPUT SHAFT OIL SEAL
1. Ol! Seal In Place.
4.18 ©
SECTION 5 - HYDRAULIC LIFT SYSTEM
The hydraulic lift system on tractors with
hydrostatic drives includes the hydraulic control
valve located under the right rear fender, the mid-
mount implement lift cylinder on the right side of the
frame approximately under the instrucment panel
and the rear PTO attachment lift cylinder on the left
rear side of the frame. Hydraulic pressure is for the
lift system is supplied by the transmission charge
pump indicated by the arrow in figure 5.1.
Normal operating pressure for the hydraulic lift
system should be in the 700 to 800 psi range. If too
low, the cylinders will not lift properly. If too high,
seal leakage will eventually occur. A 0-1000 psi
pressure gauge and a Tee fitting of appropriate size
are needed for checking pressure in the hydraulic lift
system. To check the pressure, proceed as follows.
1. Remove center console cover.
2. With engine off, disconnect hose fitting from
charge pump (see figure 1) and install Tee fitting
then reconnect hose to Tee fitting.
FIG. 5.1-CHARGE PUMP HOSE FITTING.
3. Connect the pressure gauge to the Tee fitting.
4. Start tractor engine and activate lift lever until
relief valve "pops” then hold lever and observe
pressure on gauge.
5. If the pressure is considerably higher than 800 psi
or lower than 700 psi, readjust as described in step
6.
6. Pressure adjustment is made on the adjuster of
the control valve as shown in figure 5.2. Loosen the
jam-nut and turn setscrew in clockwise direction to
increase pressure or in opposite direction to
decrease the pressure. When pressure is in the cor-
rect range, hold setscrew and tighten the jam-nut to
lock in the new setting. Stop engine and remove Tee
fitting and reconnect hose to charge pump.
NOTE: If the pressure can not be corrected by read-
justing, remove and recondition the control valve as
described in the follow.
5.1
FIG. 5.2--CONTROL VALVE PRESSURE ADJUSTER.
CONTROL VALVE
Complete access to the control valve is gained by
removing the rear fender- seat assembly. To remove
the control valve for reconditioning, disconnect the
hydraulic lines as shown in figure 5.3 and remove
the three bolts securing the valve body to the moun-
ting bracket. Reverse this procedure when reinstaill-
ing the reconditioned control valve.
RECONDITIONING CONTROL VALVE
Three tie bolts hold the valve bodies together. if a
spool or body is damaged, replace the complete
valve body. Always use new O-rings and shims.
These are supplied in kit form which is listed along
with other repair Kits in the hydraulic section of the
tractor parts manuals. Separate the valve bodies as
follows:
1. Stand the control valve on the heads of the three
tie-bolts and remove the nuts and washers from the
tie-bolts. The plates and bodies are indentified in
figures 5.5. and 5.6.
FIG. 5.3--CONTROL VALVE LINE CONNECTIONS.
1. Pump inlet. 2. Rear lift cylinder. 3. Mid lift cylinder.
4. Mid lift cvlinder. 5. Rear lift cvlinder. 6. Outlet line.
F1
FIG. 5.4--PRESSURE RELIEF & ADJUSTER VALVE
PARTS.
1. O-ring. 2. Relief body. 3. Jam-nut.
4. Adjuster. 5. Relief spring. 6. Valve
FIG. 5.5--MAIN COMPONENTS ASSEMBLED.
1. Outlet Plate. 2. Three point lift valve.
3. mid-mount lift valve. 4. Inlet Plate.
FIG. 5.6-MAIN COMPONENTS SEPARATED.
1. Outiet Plate. 2. Three point lift body.
3. Mid mount lift body. 4. inlet plate.
5.2
FIG. 5.7--MID MOUNT LIFT VALVE PARTS.
1. Cap. 2. Detent Housing. 3. Spacer.
4. O-Ring. 5. Body. 6. O-Ring.
7. Spool 8. Detent Assembly. 9. Spring & Retainer.
2. Remove the inlet plate. Note the clear mylar shims
-during reassembly the shims must be replaced in
exact same quantity and sequence.
3. Remove the three O-rings from the mid-mount
linkage valve body then separate this body from the
hitch valve body. Again note sequence of mylar
shims between the bodies.
4. Remove O-rings and separate the 3-point hitch
body from the outlet plate. Note sequence of mylar
shims for reassembly.
5. The adjuster valve components are shown
disassembled in figure 5.4. Remove and replace
these parts from the outlet body if required. Service
valve bodies as follows.
VALVE BODY SERVICE: Refer to figure 5.7 for com-
ponents of the mid-mount lift valve and figure 5.8 for
the three-point hitch control valve components.
Disassemble and recondition the valve bodies as
follows.
FIG. 5.8--3 POINT HITCH LIFT VALVE PARTS.
1. Cap. 2. Spacer. 3. O-ring. 4. Body.
5. O-ring. 6. Spool. 7. Spring & Retainer.
FL
1. Remove end cap retaining screws and pull the
cap.
2. Use allen wrench to remove spring retainer - be
careful not to let the spring fly loose as the retainer
separates.
3. On mid-mount valve assembly, remove the
setscrew form the detent housing and pull the de-
tent assembly parts (item 8, figure 5.7).
4. Remove retainer from control handie pin then
remove handle and "S” hook.
5. Push spool out toward rear of valve body then
remove the O-rings from both sides of the body.
6. Carefully inspert spools and bodies and replace if
worn or damaged. Use new O-ring seals and shims.
Reverse the foregoing steps to reassemble and
reinstall the reconditioned control valve to the trac-
tor. Adjust pressure as described earlier.
FIG. 5.9--DISASSEMBLY OF TYPICAL
LIFT CYLINDER
1. Fitting. 2. Piston Rod. 3. Fitting.
4. Cylinder Barrel. 5. Plug.
LIFT CYLINDER RECONDITIONING
Several different types of lift cylinders are used.
Refer to the parts manual for identification of the
types used. While the following steps apply
specifically to one type of lift cylinder, the same
general procedure should be used in reconditioning
all type lift cylinders after removal from the tractor.
1. Remove the fitting from the plug end of the
cylinder and remove the hitch fitting from the piston
rod (Figure 5.9).
2. Using a soft face mallet and punch, gently drive
the piston shaft inward until the plug (item 6, figure
5.10) can be remove dfrom the end of the cylinder
barrel. Be careful to avoid damaging threads on
piston rod when doing this.
3. Push the piston and rod out of the cylinder barrel.
FIG. 5.10-TYPICAL LIFT CYLINDER PARTS
1. Fitting. 2. Fitting. 3. Seal. 4. Barrel.
5. Piston and rod. 6. Plug with seal.
FIG. 5.11-INSTALLING PLUG AND SEAL
FIG. 5.12-INSTALLING PLUG END FITTING
5.3 “43
4. Service the cylinder barrel as follows. Clean all
paint off and remove burrs specifically in area
around attachment pin holes. Using a small
screwdriver or sharp point pick, pry and remove the
dust seal at the piston rod end of barrel. Also remove
the O-ring at the rod end. Replace the dust seal and
O-ring with new parts.
5. Replace the piston O-ring, lightly lubricate the
piston then carefully guide it into the barrel being
careful not to damage the O-ring as it passes the
holes inside the barrel. Use a lightly lubricated
sleeve over threaded end of the barrel to prevent
damage to the barrel end dust seal and O-ring.
5.4
6. Lightly lubricate the plug end replacement O-ring
and install in plug then reinstall plug in barrel. Note:
Make sure that threaded fitting hole in plug lines up
with fitting hole in barrel and be careful not to
damage O-rings on plug when they pass by the holes
in the barrel.
7. Reinstall fitting in plug end of cylinder then hitch
fittings before reinstalling reconditioned cylinder in
tractor.
4
SECTION 6 - ENGINE SERVICE & REMOVAL
Since extensive repairs and overhaul of the engine are to be handled by dealers authorized to
do so by the engine manufacturer, only certain routine service adjustments plus the procedures
tor removing and reinstalling the engines are covered in this section. The procedures differ in cer-
tain areas for the single and twin cylinder engines and are covered separately in this section.
ENGINE TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
HARD STARTING OR LOSS OF POWER
1. Faulty ignition. (See Section 7).
a. Leads grounded or loose.
b. Breaker points faulty or improperly
gapped.
с. Spark plug faulty or improperly gap-
ped.
d. Coil or condenser defective.
2. Faulty Carburetion.
‘a. Fuel line or filter clogged (dirt, gum,
etc.).
b. Fuel pump faulty.
c. Carburetor dirty or improperly ad-
justed.
3. Poor compression.
a. Head loose or gasket leaking.
b. Valves sticking or leaking.
c. Piston rings worn.
WON'T START
Check interlocks switches. (See Section 7).
1. If engine won't crank check neutral
return brake pedal, rear PTO switch and cir-
cuit breaker.
2. If engine cranks but does not start check
seat switch.
OPERATING ERRATICALLY
1. Clogged fuel line.
2. Water in fuel.
~ 3. Vent in gas cap plugged.
4. Faulty fuel pump.
5. Gasket leaking (carburetor-manifold).
6. Governor improperly set.
7. Carburetor improperly adjusted.
6.1
KNOCKING
1. Fuel octane too low.
2. Ignition timing wrong.
3. Carbon build-up in combustion chamber.
4. Engine overheated.
OCCASIONAL SKIP AT HIGH SPEED
1. Spark plug fouled, faulty or gap too
wide.
2. Ignition timing wrong.
3. Carburetor improperly adjusted.
4. Breaker points faulty or improperly ad-
justed.
OVERHEATING
1. Air intake screen or fins clogged.
2. Oil level too high (or low).
3. Fuel mixture too lean.
4. Ignition timing wrong. Spark too far ad-
vanced.
5. Engine overloaded.
6. Tappet clearance too close.
IDLES POORLY
1. Idle speed too low.
2. Idle fuel improperly adjusted.
3. Gasket leaking (carburetor-manifold).
4. Spark plug gap too close.
BACKFIRING
1. Carburetor set too lean (main fuel).
2. Breaker points
(timing).
3. Valve sticking.
45
improperly gapped
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
Lack of power and black sooty exhaust
smoke usually indicates that fuel mixture is
too rich. An overrich mixture may also be
caused by a clogged air cleaner — check this
before readjusting carburetor. Fuel mixture
may be too lean if engine skips or backfires
at high speed.
SINGLE CYLINDER ENGINES
MAIN FUEL: For preliminary setting, turn
main fuel screw, in clockwise direction until
it bottoms lightly (do not force) then back out
two turns. With engine thoroughly warmed
up and running at full throttle and full load,
turn main fuel screw in until engine slows
(lean setting) then turn screw out until
engine regains speed and then starts to slow
down (overrich setting). Turn screw back in
until it is positioned halfway between lean
and overrich settings — when properly ad-
justed engine will accelerate smoothly and
operate with steady governor action.
1. Idle Fuel. 2. Idle Speed. 3. Main Fuel.
IDLE ADJUSTMENT: Rough idle is usually
caused by idle speed being set too low. Turn
idle speed screw, in clockwise direction to in-
crease speed. If engine still idles poorly after
speed is increased, stop engine and turn idle
fuel screw all the way in (clockwise) until it
bottoms lightly (do not force screw), then
back out 1-1/4 turns. Restart engine and
check idle — turn needle in or out (1/4 turn
at a time) until smoothest idle is achieved.
Idle speed should be 2100-2300 rpm.
FIG. 6.1-CARBURETOR-SINGLE CYL.
6.2
TWIN CYLINDER ENGINES
1. Stop engine, remove hood from Tractor
and turn both fuel mixture screws in until
they bottom (do not force).
2. Turn high speed mixture screw out two
turns and turn idle mixture screw out one
turn. This is an initial setting.
3. Start engine and run at full throttle (do
not exceed 3650 rpm), turn high speed mix-
ture screw in until engine starts to slow
down. Then turn screw out slowly until
engine regains full speed. If adjusted proper-
ly, engine should accelerate smoothly and
operate at a steady governor speed. If it
doesn’t open adjustment screw slightly.
FIG. 6.2-CARBURETOR ADJ-TWO CYL.
1. Spark Plug. 2. Breaker Point Case. |
3. Idle Mixture. 4. High Speed (Main) Fuel Mixture.
4. Operate engine at about 1200 rpm and
turn idle mixture screw in until engine slows
down (runs rough) then open screw until
engine runs smooth.
5. Reset idle speed to 1800-2000 rpm.
NOTE: If these adjustments do not correct
carburetor problems, carburetor should be
removed and overhauled.
T6
GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT
The governor functions to maintain engine
speed under changing load conditions and
also acts as a speed limiting device. Gover-
nors are set at the factory and further adjust-
ment should not be required unless linkage
works loose or becomes disconnected. Read-
justment should be made if engine surges
with changing load or if speed drops con-
siderably when a normal load is applied.
SINGLE CYLINDER ENGINES
INITIAL ADJUSTMENT: With engine stopp-
ed, loosen (do not remove) hex nut, securing
governor arm, to governor cross shaft. Grasp
end of cross shaft with pliers and turn shaft
as tar as possible in counterclockwise direc-
tion — tab on shaft will stop internally again-
st governor gear mechanism. Hold shaft in
this position, pull governor arm all the way
away from carburetor then retighten gover-
nor arm nut to complete initial adjustment.
FIG. 6.3-GOVERNOR ADJ-SINGLE CYL.
1. Governor Arm. 2. Cross Shaft. 3. Hex Nut.
4. Governor Control Bracket. 5. Governor Spring.
SPEED ADJUSTMENT: Maximum allowable
speed is 3600 rpm. This speed must not be
exceeded. If overspeed condition is suspect-
ed, check rmp’s with hand tachometer and
readjust as follows:
Adjust high speed stop screw, until correct
maximum speed is attained.
SENSITIVITY: If speed drops considerably
when a normal load is applied, governor
should be set for greater sensitivity. If set too
sensitive, speed surging will occur when
changing load. Governor sensitivity is adjust-
ed by repositioning governor spring, in holes
provided on governor control bracket, and
6.3
FIG. 6.4-SPEED ADJUSTMENTS-SINGLE
1. High speed Bracket. 2. High Speed Stop Screw.
3. Throttle Control Cable. 4. Choke Cable.
speed bracket. Increase tension on spring
(and sensitivity) by moving spring hooks into
holes spaced further apart — conversely, de-
crease sensitivity by reducing tension on
spring.
TWIN CYLINDER ENGINES
To adjust high speed setting (no load
governed speed): Position set screw on end
of throttle control bellcrank so that when
control lever on dash is in forward position
rearward arm of bellcrank is against stop of
fixed bracket. This should provide 3600 rpm
engine speed. If it does not bend stop pad to
achieve 3600 rpm. It may be necessary to re-
position throttle control wire in set screw on
bellcrank.
FIG. 6.5-SPEED ADJUSTMENTS-TWO CYL.
1. Throttle Control Cable. 2. Throttle Control Bellcrank.
3. High Speed Stop Pad. “4. High Speed Adjustment Screw.
#7
ENGINE REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
REMOVAL - SINGLE CYLINDER
Refer to figures 6.6 and 6.7.
1. Remove hood and grille assembly.
2. Disconnect battery cables and electrical
wires from engine.
3. Disconnect cable from starter motor.
4. Shut off fuel and remove line from car-
buretor.
5. Disconnect choke and throttle cables
trom engine.
6. Remove battery ground cable bolt from
battery platform.
REMOVAL - TWIN CYLINDER
1. Remove hood and grille assembly.
2. Remove right side panel to gain access
to tractor belt tension adjustment.
3. Disconnect battery cables.
4. Close fuel tank shut-off, disconnect fuel
supply line from fuel pump and remove fuel
tank.
5. Disconnect electrical wiring (alternator
wire) at right rear of engine and remove har-
ness clamp bolt.
FIG. 6.6-COUPLER PIN & SLEEVE
1. Coupler Pin. 2. Coupler Sleeve.
7. Remove pin from drive coupler and slide
coupler sleeve rearward.
8. Remove engine mounting bolts and lift
engine out.
INSTALLATION - SINGLE CYLINDER
1. Position engine on frame and secure
with retaining bolts.
2. Reconnect cables, wires and fuel lines.
3. Slide drive coupler onto engine shaft
and secure with pin.
4. Install hood and grille assembly
FIG. 6.7- MOUNTING BOLT-SINGLE CYL.
6. Loosen traction belt tension by turning
nuts at lower portion of rod and remove pin
from end of rod.
7. Remove traction belts.
8. Remove retaining clip from traction
drive belt tension bracket.
9. Remove complete exhaust system and
disconnect throttle and choke cables from
engine.
10. Remove pin and slide coupling rear-
ward on PTO shaft if equipped.
11. Disconnect battery cable from starter
motor.
12. Disconnect ignition wire from ignition
coil.
6.4 LB
FIG. 6.8-TRACTION DRIVE-TWO CYL.
2. Alternator Wiring.
4. Pin. 5. Belt Tensioning Nuts.
1. Traction Drive Belts.
3. Clamp Bolt.
FIG. 6.11-ENGINE MOUNTING DETAIL
1. Electric Clutch Wire. 2. Grounding Strap.
3. Mounting Bracket Nuts. 4. PTO Drive Belts.
13. Disconnect electric clutch wire (blue
wire) at right front of engine.
14. Remove front PTO drive belts.
15. Disconnect ground strap and remove
engine mounting bracket nuts at front of
engine.
16. Drain engine oil and remove drain
pipe.
17. Remove nuts at rear of engine mount-
ing brackets.
18. Attach a suitable lifting device and
raise engine just enough to clear mounting
studs.
19. Slide traction drive tension bracket
from its pivot post while moving engine for-
ward. Continue lifting engine clear
FIG. 6.10-DRIVE COUPLER & PIN
1. Twin Cylinder Engine Coupler. 2. Throttle Cable.
Dio
FIG. 6.12-TRACTION DRIVE TENSION BRACKET
1. Drive Tension Bracket — Twin Cylinder.
49
FIG. 6.13-LIFTING OUT OF FRAME
INSTALLATION - TWIN CYLINDER
. Position engine in place, start tension
bracker over pivot post at same time.
2. Continue aligning mounting brackets
with studs and secure engine in place with
retaining nuts.
3. Reconnect the following:
a. Ground strap
b. Ignition wire to coil
c. Electric clutch wire
d. Cable to starter motor
e. Throttle cable
f. Alternator wire at right rear of engine
4. Install choke
FIG. 6.14-ENGINE REINSTALLED
1. Oil Fill Tube. 2. Oil Drain Tube.
5. Install retaining clip on tension bracket
post.
6. Install exhaust system.
7. Slide PTO coupling (if equipped) for-
ward on engine shaft and secure with pin.
8. Install traction drive belts and insert pin
at lower end of belt tension rod.
9. Adjust belt tension nut until length of
spring is 1-1/4” and secure with lock nut.
10. Install front PTO drive belts.
11. Install oil drain pipe and fill engine with
oil.
12. Install fuel tank and reconnect battery
cables.
13. Install hood and grille assembly.
6.6 50
SECTION 7 - ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
IGNITION - GENERAL SERVICES
SPARK PLUGS: Remove and check con-
dition every 100 hours of operation or an-
nually. If gapping is needed, set at .035". Do
not sandblast, wire brush or scrape plug. If
needed, replace with Champion RH 10.
BREAKER POINTS: Check and service at
least every 100 hours of operation or annual-
ly. If oxidized, oily or dirty, clean with a coar-
se cloth. Do not use emery cloth or sand-
paper. Replace badly pitted or burned points.
To adjust, turn engine over by hand until
points are at maximum opening. Check gap
with feeler gauge. If gap is not .020", loosen
retaining screw and shift plate until proper
gap is obtained. Retighten screw, then re-
check gap when points are fully open.
Replace condenser if necessary.
IGNITION SWITCH: Ignition switch is key
operated and is on right lower portion of in-
strument panel. It has four positions; off, run
with lights, run and start. Turning key to start
cranks starter motor. When key is released,
it returns to run position. Turning key one
notch to lett of “Run” turns on lights. Turning
key one more notch to left shuts off engine.
AMMETER: Ammeter is on left side of in-
strument panel. Normally needle will be on
right (plus) side of dial when engine is runn-
ing, indicating alternator’s rate of charge. If
ammeter indicates a discharge (with needle
on (minus) side of dial) for any length of
time, check wiring, battery and circuit break-
er for shorts or other malfunctions.
HOURMETER — (ACCESORY): Hourmeter
indicates accumulated hours of engine
operation. |
+ —
3 6 GA. BLACK |
BATTERY Of
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CIRCUIT BREAKER AMMETES
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SPARK PLUG
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IMPLEMENT
CLUTCH
ENGINE
NOTE: All wires 18 gauge unless otherwise specified.
FIGURE 7.1--GARDEN TRACTOR SCHEMATIC WIRING DIAGRAM
7.1
S/
FIG. 7.2--BREAKER POINTS-2CYL.
1. Condenser. 2. Breaker Points.
3. Retaining Nut. 4. Plunger.
INTERLOCK SWITCHES
The function of these switches is to allow
the engine to start when the following start-
ing conditions exist.
1. Operator seated in tractor’s seat.
2. Clutch/Brake pedal depressed.
3. Front PTO switch in OFF position.
4. Rear PTO (it tractor so equipped) lever
is OFF.
The mechanism controlling condition, No.
1, above is in the engine ignition circuit. The
mechanisms controlling conditions, No. 2, 3
and 4, above are in the engine cranking cir-
cuit. Therefore, it is important to remember
that ALL these starting conditions must exist
before the engine will start. Also, if starting
conditions, Nos. 2, 3 and 4, exist the engine
will crank over using the starter but will not
start if starting condition, No. 1, is not exist-
ing.
TESTING INTERLOCK SWITCHES:
1. Remove wires from switch, connect test
light or ohmmeter to switch terminals.
2. The following results should be ob-
tained.
CIRCUIT BREAKER
The electrical system is protected by a 20
AMP circuit breaker which is mounted on the
backside of the instrument panel near the
battery.
If this fails, the engine will not start or run.
The circuit breaker can not be reset and must
be replaced if it fails. When connecting the
replacement, make sure the starting
solenoid wire is connected to the "BAT" ter-
minal and the positive side of the ammeter is
connected to the "AUX" terminal as shown in
figure 7.3.
FIG. 7.3--CIRCUIT BREAKER WIRING
1. Remove battery cables, connect an ohm-
meter between ammeter terminals and
ground. You should get no reading, if a read-
ing occurs ammeter is grounded.
Switch Location Light Ohmmeter
Seat (with Seat raised) under seat off no reading
Clutch (Pedal down) above transmission fan on reading
Mower Clutch (off) disconnect purple wires at on reading
| switch
| PT ff under left fender .
Rear PTO (off) above drive shaft on reading
7.2
SA
ALTERNATOR CHARGING SYSTEM
PRECAUTIONS:
1. Do not connect battery to cables in
wrong polarity. This will cause regulator-rec-
tifier damage.
2. Break continuity between regulator-rec-
tifier unit and battery when using a remote
charger on battery or when jumping from
another battery. This will eliminate damage
to regulator-rectifier if polarity is reversed.
3. Disconnect wiring harness at regulator-
rectifier before using arc welder equipment.
PRE-SERVICE CHECKS
1. Check for good ground between regula-
tor-rectifier and mounting.
2. Check for poor connections or broken
wires.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
BATTERY CHARGING AT HIGH RATE:
1. Connect DC Voltmeter across battery. If
voltage is over 14.7 volts, regulator-rectifier
is not functioning. If voltage is under 14.7
volts, battery is defective.
BATTERY NOT FULLY CHARGED:
1. Connect a jumper wire from battery
positive terminal to coil positive terminal.
2. Start engine and disconnect B plus wire
from circuit breaker (wire going to solenoid)
FIG. 7.4--IGNITION-SINGLE CYLINDER
1. Spark Plug 2. Regulator. 3. High Tension Wire.
4. Coil. 5. Condenser.
3. Connect DC Voltmeter positive lead to
wire removed from circuit breaker terminal
and negative lead to ground. Run engine at
full speed and check DC Voltage. Disconnect
jumper wire to coil after test is completed.
Volt meter reads:
a. Above 14 volts. | Check alternator. OK
ammeter may be de-
fective.
b. Less than 14 Defective regulator-
volts but above | rectifier.
"0" volts.
Detective Stator or
c. "0" voltage.
regulator-rectifier.
4. Reconnect circuit breaker. Start engine
and check voltage across battery. If reading
is 13.8 volts or more, place a load on battery
to reduce voltage to below 13.6 volts. This
can be done by turning on lights for a short
time.
a. Charging rate
increases. Alternator OK,
Defective stator or
regulator-rectifier.
b. Charging rate
does not
increase.
5. A check to determine if stator or regu-
lator-rectifier is defective, unplug ac leads at
regulator-rectifier and connect voltmeter
leads in spade connector. Check voltage with
engine running at fuli speed.
a. Less than 20
volts. Defective Stator.
b. More than 20 | Defective regulator-
volts. rectitier.
FIG. 7.5--RECTIFIER/REGULATOR-2 CYL.
1. Rectifier-Regulator. 2. Terminal.
7.3 53
SERVICE NOTES - SECTIONS 7 & 8
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74 St
SECTION 8 — FUEL SYSTEM
INTRODUCTION
The fuel system on all tractors includes a 2-3/4 gallon tank mounted on a insulator pad on the
pedestal frame of the tractor. The capacity is the same for all tanks however the configuration on
the 1855 series tank differs from the tank used on both the 1600 and 1650 series. A fuel shut off
valve is provided on the outlet of each tank. The fuel line leading to the engine included a
replaceable in-line fuel filter. Tilt the tractor hood forward to gain access to the fuel system com-
ponents. The tank may have to be removed to gain access to components on the backside of the
instrument panel and steering shaft in some repairs.
CAUTION: Take necessary cautions when handling fuel system components to prevent ignition
of the gasoline! Service and/or replace fuel system components as follows:
FUEL FILTER
The case of the in-line fuel filter is tran-
sparent to allow frequent visual checks. The
filter should be replaced when water, dirt
and/or sediment builds-up inside the case. If
excessive build-up is noted, the tank and fuel
lines should be cleaned before installing the
replacement filter. Replace filter as follows.
STEP 1: Turn the fuel shut-off valve under
tank in clockwise direction to full off
position.
STEP 2: Using a pair of pliers, compress the
ends of the hose clamps above and below the
filter and slide the clamps back over the inlet
ond outlet flanges of the filter.
STEP 3: Pull the fuel inlet hose off the top
of the filter then pull the outlet hose of the
bottom of the filter. Discard the used filter
and install replacement by reversing the
foregoing procedure. NOTE: The widest part
of the filter must be installed down and con-
nected to the outlet hose to the engine.
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FIG. 8.1 — FUEL SYSTEM (SINGLE CYL.)
1. SHUT—OFF VALVE. 2. FUEL TANK.
3. IN—LINE FILTER. 4. AIR CLEANER.
8.1
CAUTION: Check routing of the fuel hoses
afterward to make sure they are routed
above the throttle cable and away from the
rotating grass screen of the engine to eli-
minate possible cutting later during opera-
tion.
FUEL TANK
The fuel tank should be checked at the
start of each operational season. If water or
dirt is present, the tank and fuel lines should
be removed and thoroughly cleaned. Remove
tank as follows:
STEP 1: Lift hood and turn fuel shut-off
valve under tank in clockwise direction to full
off position.
STEP 2: Using a pair of pliers, compress the
hose clamp at the valve and slide the clamp
downward away from the flange of the
valve. Pull the hose off the fuel valve.
FIG. 8.2 — FUEL SYSTEM (TWO CYL.)
1. SHUT-OFF VALVE. 2. FUEL PUMP.
3. IN—LINE FILTER. 4. FUEL TANK.
55
FIG. 8.3 — LINE ROUTING (SINGLE CYL.)
1. TANK OUTLET. 2. FUEL FILTER.
3. THROTTLE & CHOKE CABLES.
STEP 3: Unhook the retaining strap from
the tank bail or clamp, lift the bail then re-
move the tank. |
STEP 4: Remove the fuel cap-guage then
carefully dispose of the contaminated or
stale fuel remaining in the tank. Clean the
tank by swishing with clean gasoline. Clean
or replace the fuel lines at this time if excess-
ive dirt or water was present.
STEP 5: Before installing the tank, check
the bottom and rear side of tank for evidence
of rubbing. Replace the vibration insulation
pads at rear and bottom if worn also replace
tank if worn then at these points. Reverse
foregoing procedure to reinstall tank.
8.2
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FIG. 8.4 — LINE ROUTING (TWO CYL.)
1. TANK OUTLET. 2. THROTTLE CABLE.
3. FUEL FILTER. 4. FUEL PUMP.
CAUTION: Carefully route the fuel hoses
over the throttle cable away from the
rotating grass screen on engine to eliminate
chances of the screen cutting or wearing thru
the hoses during operation.
FUEL LINE ROUTING
Always route the fuel line above the th-
rottle cable as shown in figure 8.1 to prevent
the rotating grass screen on the engine from
rubbing thru the hoses during operation!
This routing will keep the hoses sufficiently
away from the screen.
SC
SECTION 10 - MOWERS & DRIVES
Covered in this section are the 42 and 48” mid-mount mowers which are belt driven off a "mule” drive unit attach-
ed to the front of the 1600 and 1650 series tractors. Also covered are the gear driven 54” mid-mount mowers used
on the 1855 series tractors. Diffferences are pointed out wherever pertinent in this section.
DETACHING MOWERS
1. Raise mower with mower lift then shut off Tractor
engine. Place gauge wheels in full up position.
2. Lower mower to ground.
3. Disconnect four lift links from anchor plates.
4. Disconnect hanger straps and disconnect drive
belt from clutch and idler pulleys, on 54” mowers,
disconnect PTO shaft from mid PTO.
5. If mounting ramps are used, simply put in place
and back Tractor up and over mower.
6. If mower mounting ramps are not used, slide
mower out sideways from under Tractor.
REPLACING BELT AND/OR BLADES AND
TIMING BLADES
IMPORTANT NOTE
The three blade spindles are in a straight line to pre-
vent leaving a narrow uncut strip between the cut-
ting swath of each blade. There is an overlap rela-
tionship between cutting swath of center blade and
cutting swath of outside blades. The blades must
therefore, be timed so that they do not make contact
during rotation. Time blades so that outside blades
are parallel to each other while the center blade is
perpendicular. |
TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT
1. Detach mower from Tractor.
2. Remove belt covers and back off nuts on outboard
spindle housing mounting bolts one turn. Tighten
nuts on belt tensioning bolts to bring outboard
spindles inboard to slacken belts.
3. Remove top belt, then bottom belt. Install new
belts in reverse order.
4. Adjust tension of bottom belt first then top belt.
Replace covers.
10.1
TIMING BELT TENSION
1. Remove belt covers and measure length of spring,
Fig. 10.1. If measurement is not 4.38”, adjustment is
necessary.
2. Tighten central mower spindle housing bolts.
3. Loosen outboard spindle housing nuts, No. 2, Fig.
10.3, one turn only.
4. Loosen nuts, Fig. 10.1, completely which will allow
springs, to move spindles outboard to tension belts.
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FIG. 10.1--REPLACING BELTS AND TIMING BLADES
(48” SHOWN)
1. Adjusting Nut
2. Belt Tensioning Bolt
5. Tap spindle housing, Fig. 10.1, under mower base
with a hammer to overcome any friction at mounting
olts.
6. Again check length of spring. If measurement is
less than 4.38” remove washer. If measurement is
more than 4.38” add washers between spring and an-
chor bracket until spring length is correct.
7. Tighten nuts, until there is 1/16” clearance between
nut. No. 2, and anchor bracket.
8. Tighten spindle housing bolts, Fig. 10.3 to 30-35
ft.-Ibs. torque. Reinstall belt covers.
57
TIMING BLADES:
For blade replacement, timing does not have to be
done via the belts. The spindle shaft hole in the
blade provides various attaching positions.
1. Place a mark across all pulleys in line with cutting
blade.
2. Position marks on outer pulleys lengthwise with
mower and center pulley mark crosswise.
3. Install belts and slide center pulley on shaft.
4. Adjust nut on beit tension bolt until length of
spring is 4-3/8", Fig. 10.1.
FIG. 2--TOP SIDE OF MOWER WITH SHIELDS AND 5. Tighten bolts holding spindle assembly in mower
GEAR BOX REMOVED deck and complete reassembly.
REPLACING BLADES
To keep blade from turning while loosening bolt,
place a 2”x4” or similar block between blade and
deflector under mower. Note order components are
taken off so they can be replaced same way. Blades
are attached to spindle by means of blade adaptor,
two shear pins and a bolt with a belleville spring
washer and lockwasher.
When sharpening blades on a grinder, take care not
to overheat or metal will lose its temper and become
soft. Grind each blade edge equally so that blade
balance will be maintained. Replace blade and at-
taching parts in same order as removed. Tighten nut
to 45 ft.-Ibs. torque.
NOTE: Mower blades must be properly timed. The
two outboard blades must be In line (parallel to each
other) and center blade at 90 degree (perpendicular
to outboard blades.)
FIG. 10.4-MOWER "MULE DRIVE”
1. Mower Drive Belt
2. Right-Hand Pulley (Mule Drive Unit)
3. Tension Spring
4. Mule Drive Cover
5. Adjusting Bolt
DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT
(42” & 48” MOWERS ONLY)
1. Remove mule drive cover by removing two bolts,
see Fig. 10.4.
2. Rotate adjusting bolt, No. 6, Fig. 49, counter-
clockwise to relieve belt tension. |
3. Push up on right-hand mule drive pulley, No. 5,
Fig. 10.5, and remove belt, No. 2, from pulley.
4. Remove belt from left-hand mule drive pulley and
then mower pulley.
FIG. 10.3--BLADE SPINDLE DETAIL
5. Remove mule drive by removing two hair pins.
1. Spindle Housing 4. Shear Pins . , ‘
2. Spindie Housing Retaining Bolts 5. Blade Retaining Bolt 6. Install new belt, reinstall mule drive, adjust belt
3. Mower Blade 6. Adapter tension and replace mule drive cover.
10.2 52
DRIVE BELT TENSION (42” 8: 48” )
1. Make sure mower is leve! before attempting to ad-
just belt tension.
2. With mower in lowered position, turn adjusting
bolt, No. 6, Fig. 10.5, clockwise to adjust belt ten-
sion. When belt, No. 2, is properly tensioned,
pulleys, Nos. 5 and 7, should be approximately same
height from ground. |
3. Place mower gauge wheels in full up position.
4. Adjust length of front lift links until the attaching
points line up with the holes in front anchor plate.
FIG. 10.5--DRIVE BELT ARRANGEMENT (FRONT)
1. Mower Drive Clutch Pulley
2. Mower Drive Belt
3. Mule Drive Mounting Rins
4. Mul Drive Retaining Clips
5. Jight-Hand Pulley
6. Adjusting Bolt
7. Left-Hand Pulley
10.3
5. Remove mule drive cover by removing 2 bolts, see
Fig. 10.4.
6. Remove mule drive unit by removing 2 spring
clips, see Fig. 10.5.
7. Place mower drive belt over implement drive
clutch pulley, see Fig. 10.5.
8. Reinstall mule drive.
9. Rotate bolt, No. 6, Fig. 10.5, counterclockwise and
install belt, No. 2, Fig. 10.5, under left pulley, No. 7,
Fig. 10.5, then place belt around mower clutch
pulley, No. 5, Fig. 10.6.
10. Raise spring loaded pulley, No. 5, Fig. 10.5, and
install belt under it as shown.
11. Rotate bolt, No. 6, Fig. 10.5, clockwise until both
mule drive pulleys are the same height.
12. Reinstall mule drive cover.
13. If mower is not level refer to “Levelling” section
on page 10.8.
SPINDLE REPAIRS
The mower has three similar spindles and blades.
The outer spindles are connected to center spindle
with a notched timing belt.
The spindles are the same except the center one has
a longer shaft and double pulley.
1. Remove mower from Tractor.
2. Remove mower belt covers as necessary and
remove "V7" -belt pulley from center spindle if center
spindle is to be serviced.
3. Tighten mower belt tensioner nuts as necessary
to relieve belt tension on spindle pulleys, remove
pulleys as necessary and then turn mower over and
remove blades as necessary. Follow same pro-
cedure for 54” mowers except that a gearbox and
mounting bracket assembly instead of a "V” -belt
pulley will have to be removed.
CAUTION: Wrap a cloth around blade to prevent
injury.
4, Remove bolts securing spindle assembly to
mower and remove spindle.
5. Remove retaining ring from housing and bump
shaft and bearing out. Fig. 10.8
6. Inspect bearings and seals, replace as required.
7. Install roller bearing and seal into housing until
seal is flush with outside of housing. Fig. 10.9.
53
8. Reinstall shaft into housing and secure with re-
taining ring.
9. Reinstall spindle assembly in mower deck but do
not tighten bolts unless center spindle was serviced.
10. Reinstall blades and pulleys and then refer to
"Replacing Belts and/or Blades and Timing Blades”.
NOTE: When reinstalling gearbox and mounting
bracket assembly, extreme care should be taken to
insure that the splined shaft of the gearbox is a free
sliding fit in the center pulley. Mis-alignment will
cause deterioration of pulley splines.
FIG. 10.6-MOWER DRIVE BELT ARRANGEMENT
1. Mower Drive Clutch Pulley
2. Mower Drive Belt
3. Adjusting Boit
4. Mule Drive Pulleys
5. Mower Driven Pulley
FIG. 10.7--BEARING AND SEAL INSTALLED
1. Seal
2. Bearing
10.4
FIG. 10.8--SHAFT AND BEARING REMOVED
eo
GEARBOX REPAIRS - 54" MOWERS
1. Remove mower from Tractor.
2. Remove gearbox from mower, Fig. 10.6.
3. Remove cover and clean grease from inside of
case.
4. Slide both retaining rings together on input shaft.
5. Remove plate and shims from case at end of input
shaft. |
6. Bump shaft through bearings and gear through
opening where plate was removed until bearing can
be removed.
7. Remove bearing and lift shaft out of case through
top opening. FIG. 10.10--OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL AND RETAINING
RINGS INSTALLED 1. Retaining Ring
2. Seal
FIG. 10.9-GEARBOX COMPONENTS
1. Seal 6. Input Shaft 11. Bearing
2. Bearings 7. Output Gear
3. input Gear 8. Output Shaft
‘4. Shim . Bearin - ..
5 Pinto Seating FIG. 10.11-OUTPUT SHAFT AND BEARING
INSTALLED IN GEARBOX
8. Remove seal, retaining ring and bearing from
case.
9. Remove gear and retaining rings from input shaft.
10.. Remove retaining ring and gear from output
shaft.
11. Bump output shaft from bearings and out of
case.
l2. Remove bearings, retaining rings and seal from
case.
13. Inspect all parts for wear or damage, replace as
required. Refer to Fig. 10.9, for identification and se-
quence of parts.
14. Install retaining ring in groove in lower side of
gearbox. FIG. 10.12--OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING INSTALLED
15. Install seal with lip of seal toward inside of gear- 1. Bearing
box and install another retaining ring, Fig. 10.10. 2. Output Shaft
FIG. 10.13--OUTPUT GEAR INSTALLED
1. Gear
2. Retaining Ring
3. Output Shaft
16. Install one bearing on output shaft and install in-
fo gearbox against retaining ring, Fig. 10.11.
17. Install another bearing over other end of output
shaft and against retaining ring, Fig. 10.12.
18. Install output gear with key and secure with re-
taining ring, Fig. 10.13.
19. Install retaining rings and one bearing on input
shaft, Fig. 10.14.
20. Insert input shaft into gearbox and through gear
with key. Fig. 10.15.
21. Install bearing on other end of input shaft. Fig.
10.16.
22. Install plate with shims then check gears back-
lash. Back-lash in gear should be .002”-.005”. Add or
remove shims to obtain correct gear back-lash. Fig.
10.17.
BOX 10.15--INPUT SHAFT POSITIONED IN GEAR-
FIG. 10.16--BEARING INSTALLED OVER INPUT
SHAFT
FIG. 10.14-INPUT SHAFT AND BEARING
1. Input Shaft
2. Bearing
3. Retaining Rings
10.6
FIG. 10.17--ADJUSTING GEAR BACK-LASH
1. Output Gear 3. Plate
2. Input Gear 4. Shims
62
FIG. 10.18-INSTALLING SPACER BETWEEN GEAR-
BOX AND PULLEY |
23. Fill gearbox with molybdenum disulphide grease
and install cover. |
24. Install spacer, with chamfer up, on pulley as
shown in Fig. 10.18 and install gearbox.
NOTE: When installing gearbox and mounting
bracket assembly extreme care should be taken to
insure that the splined shaft of the gearbox Is a free
sliding fit in the center pulley. Mis-alignment will
cause deterioration of pulley splines.
ATTACHING 42” & 48” MOWERS TO
TRACTOR
1. Slide mower under Tractor or using mounting
ramp accessory, drive Tractor over mower.
2. Start Tractor engine, lower lift arms and then shut
off Tractor engine.
3. Attach rear lift arms to rear anchor plates as
shown in Fig. 10.19
4. Attach hanger straps to mower as shown in Fig.
10.19 |
FIG. 10.19--ATTACHING MOWER
1. Hanger Straps
2. Rear Lift Link 5. Yoke
3. Front Lift Link 6. Bolt and Hair Pin
4. Front Lift Link — 7- Retainer Spring
10.7
FIG. 10.20--LIFT LINK INSTALLATION
ATTACHING 54” MOWER TO TRACTOR
1. Slide mower under Tractor or using mounting
ramp (accessory), drive Tractor over mower.
2. Start Tractor engine, lower hanger straps and then
shut off engine.
3. Attach lift arms to anchor plates and hanger
straps to mower. Secure in place with spring link re-
tainers.
NOTE: Hanger straps are installed on left side of
mower mounting brackets.
4. Place rear gauge wheels in full up position.
5. Place a 2x4 edgewise under the front edge to raise
the front of the mower approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch
above the rear of mower.
6. Attach yoke end of front lift links to mower and
then rotate lift link until the correct length fits snug-
ly into front anchor plate.
7. Install PTO drive shaft on Tractor and secure with
sliding lock.
FIG. 10.21--MOWER INSTALLATION
1. Anchor Plate 3. Lift Arms
2. Link Springs 4. Hanger Straps
63
LEVELLING - MID MOUNT MOWERS
Tractor must be on level surface with tires properly
Inflated. | |
1. Place rear gauge wheels in full up position.
2. Place a two inch block under the front edge when
required to raise the front of the mower approx-
imately 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the rear of mower.
10.8
3. Allow mower to rest on gauge wheels.
4. Adjust front lift links so that they will snugly fit in-
to front anchor plates. | |
NOTE: Mower should be level or sloping up slightly
at the front when on a flat surface when resting on
gauge wheels in the full up position.
67