Installation/Operator’s Manual Model: 1602G / 1802G

Installation/Operator’s Manual Model: 1602G / 1802G
Installation/Operator’s Manual
Model: 1602G / 1802G
Wood or Coal Gravity Style (Up-Flow) Supplemental Furnace
SAFETY NOTICE:
If this furnace is not properly installed, a house fire may result! For your safety, follow these installation instructions. Contact
local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation requirements in your area. This furnace must be installed by a
qualified technician. Keep these instructions for future reference.
Safety Tested to UL 391
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Certified to comply with 2015 particulate emissions standards.
United States Stove Company • 227 Industrial Park Road, P.O. Box 151 • South Pittsburg, TN 37380 • www.usstove.com
851768B-1908E
INTRODUCTION
side of the connector by at least 2 inches.
CLEARANCES
Thank You for your purchase of a U.S. Stove Wood/Coal Burning Gravity Style (Up-Flow) Furnace. Your decision to buy our
Clayton Furnace was undoubtedly reached after much careful
thought and consideration. We are very proud you chose this
furnace and trust you will receive the comfort and economy that
others realize when heating with a U.S. Stove product.
Before installing and using your Clayton furnace, please read
the following pages thoroughly and carefully. If you follow the
instructions, your Clayton furnace will give you safe and more
dependable service for years to come.
• First step: Check your local codes. This installation must
comply with their rulings.
• Do Not install this furnace in a mobile home or trailer
• Always have a smoke or ionization detector and a CO detector installed in your home.
• To prevent injury or damage, do not allow anyone who is
unfamiliar with the furnace to operate it.
• This furnace must be installed ONLY in the prescribed
manner shown in illustrations 1, 2, or 3 under the Installation Examples in this manual. It is NEVER to be installed
as a counter-flow or down-draft furnace, or in any manner
wherein the heated air is directed in a downward flow into
the home or toward to an existing central furnace.
• NEVER INSTALL outside the home.
• Spend adequate time with your furnace to become well acquainted with the different settings and how each will affect
its burning patterns. It is impossible to state just how each
setting will affect your furnace because of the variations in
each installation.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE
The BTU ranges and heating capacity specifications are provided
as a guide and in no way guarantee the output or capacity of
this unit. The actual BTU output depends on the type of fuel being burned and its conditions, the thermostat setting, the draft
adjustment and the chimney to which the unit is attached. The
actual area that this unit will heat depends on factors such as
the conditions of the building, heat loss, type of construction,
amount of insulation, type of air movement, the location of the
unit and more importantly the duct work and return air facility.
Warning:
Do not alter this appliance in any way other than specified in
these instructions. Doing so may void your warranty.
LOCATING YOUR FURNACE
The furnace is to be installed maintaining the clearances specified in the following illustrations. Do not place the furnace directly on a combustible floor. If you are placing it on a combustible floor, an approved fire retardant material, equivalent to 3/8”
UL Listed millboard, should be placed under the unit. The material must extend at least 16 inches beyond the front of the unit
and 8 inches on either side of the fuel loading door opening. It
must also extend underneath the chimney connector and to each
2
Model
1602 - 20”
1802 - 25”
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
IMPORTANT
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
Model
1602 - 15”
1802 - 28”
(TOP VIEW)
Model
1602 - 22”
1802 - 19”
FLUE
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
TO A COMBUSTIBLE
WALL
CAUTION:
Model
1602 - 12”
1802 - 8”
DO NOT store
combustible or
flammable materials or
liquids near the
furnace.
REDUCED CLEARANCES
NFPA guidelines and most codes permit reduced clearances to
combustible walls and ceilings if adequate protection is added.
A common mistake is to assume that sheet metal, masonry, or
millboard placed directly against a wall protects it. Materials
installed in this manner actually provides very little protection.
These materials are good heat conductors, so they will be almost
as hot on their back side as they are on the exposed side. Therefore, the combustible wall behind is still a fire hazard.
A wall can be kept cool using these items but only if they are
mounted and spaced out from the wall by an inch or two to allow
free air circulation behind the protective panel. The protective
panel should also have a gap between the floor and ceiling.
Three rules to follow when constructing wall protectors:
1. Non-combustibility of all materials including mounting and
supporting.
2. A well ventilated air space between protector and wall.
3. Sufficient strength and rigidity so that the protector and air
space will be durable.
2 in. [5cm]
FROM CEILING
CONSTRUCTING
NON-COMBUSTIBLE
WALLS
PROTECTIVE COVERING
AND ALL SUPPORTS MUST
BE NON-COMBUSTIBLE
1 in [2.5cm]
AIR SPACE
2 in [5cm]
FROM FLOOR
CHIMNEY REQUIREMENTS
A fireclay lined masonry or Class A 103HT All-Fuel Metal Insulated Chimney must be used in all airtight wood furnace installations. The minimum recommended flue size for the model 1602
is 6 inches, inside diameter and for the 1802, the recommended
flue size is 8 inches, inside diameter. When making new chimney
installations, always follow the chimney manufacturer’s instructions.
If at all possible, use the factory built, class A 103HT chimney
mentioned above. They are safer and perform better than traditional masonry chimneys. If a masonry chimney is a must,
be certain it has a fire clay liner and that it is intact, clean and
recently inspected. And remember, masonry chimneys are far
more prone to the formation of hazardous creosote.
TOP OF CHIMNEY MUST BE
2 FEET [61cm] ABOVE
HIGHEST POINT OF THE
ROOF WITHIN 10 FEET
[305cm].
2 FT [61cm]
MINIMUM
MINIMUM 3 FT[91cm] FROM
TOP OF CHIMNEY TO
POINT AT WHICH IT
PASSES THROUGH THE
ROOF.
the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions
and other factors. Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance. Inadequate draft may cause backpuffing
into the room and ‘plugging’ of the chimney.
“Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke into the
room through appliance and chimney connector joints.”
“An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indicates excessive draft.”
Take into account the chimney’s location to insure it is not too
close to neighbors or in a valley which may cause unhealthy or
nuisance conditions.
CREOSOTE - FORMATION AND NEED
FOR REMOVAL
3 FT [91cm]
MINIMUM
RECOMMENDED
MINIMUM HEIGHT
20 FT [610cm]
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic
vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote.
The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney
flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at
least twice monthly during the heating season to determine if a
creosote build-up has occurred. If creosote has accumulated, it
should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
SMOKE PIPE INSTALLATION
1.
The furnace should be the only heating using the chimney
flue. One furnace per flue outlet.
2. A masonry chimney should have a tile or stainless steel liner.
3. The masonry chimney should not have any missing mortar
or loose bricks.
4. There should be no mortar or parts of the chimney blocking
the chimney flue.
5. There should be a two inch clearance between any chimney
(masonry or metal) and combustibles. (such as the house)
6. The chimney should extend at least 2 foot above the highest
point of the house, or 2 foot above the point at which the
chimney is 10 foot from the roof.
7. The chimney should be relatively straight and vertical.
8. The portion of an all-fuel metal chimney that extends above
the roof should be well secured.
9. A masonry chimney should be built on footings and not attached to the house.
10. A rain cap, complete with an animal or bird screen, should
be installed on top of the chimney.
IMPORTANCE OF PROPER DRAFT
Clearances to combustible materials (i.e. paneling, ceiling tile,
sheet rock, plaster, draperies, casements or wood trim, etc.) will
vary with the type of flue connection used. Be sure to maintain
the specified clearances for your type of installation.
TYPE OF FLUE
REQUIRED
CONNECTION
CLEARANCE
24 Gauge or Heavier ......................................... 18”
Single Wall Stainless Steel
or Black Pipe
Double Wall, Stainless Steel or......................... 6” Model 1602
Double Wall, Black Pipe w/ .............................. 8” Model 1802
Stainless Steel Inner wall
Class A 103HT All-Fuel or Equivalent ........... 2”
According to NFPA standards, single wall stove pipes can be
within 9” of combustibles provided an approved fire retardant
material covered with 28 gauge sheet metal, spaced out 1” on
non-combustible spacers, is utilized. See illustration.
18” [46cm]
9” [23cm] 18” [46cm]
Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up through
the chimney. The amount of draft in your chimney depends on
3
When using a Class A or double wall flue pipe connection, follow
the manufacturer’s instructions.
When constructing a single wall smoke pipe, the following
guidelines must be observed.
1. The connector pipe should be 24 gauge or heavier stainless
steel or black pipe.
2. Secure all joints with three #8 screws.
3. If the connector pipe must pass through a wall, an approved
insulated or ventilated thimble, at least three times the diameter of the smoke pipe must be used. (i.e. a 6” diameter
smoke pipe needs an 18” thimble).
4. The connector pipe should never be used as a chimney.
building up soot in the pipe and should clean it. This pipe should
be cleaned at least once or twice during the heating season.
DO NOT CONNECT TWO HEATERS TO THE SAME CHIMNEY FLUE. The National Fire Prevention Association recommends that wood burning appliances vent into a separate flue
from gas or oil furnaces. If such an installation is contemplated,
first check with a local building inspector to find out if a separate
flue for a wood burner is required.
Use of a Barometric Draft Control (when burning wood) is recommended ONLY in the event your chimney creates excessive
draft leading to an over-firing condition.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR ALL
CONNECTOR PIPES
The Clayton furnace is designed for use as a supplemental heating
source. When used as a supplementary furnace, the 1602/1802 is
connected in conjunction with an oil, gas, or electric furnace to
the existing duct work which distributes the heated air into several rooms and/or areas.
Though United States Stove Company expressly Does Not recommend the use of its furnaces to be installed and/or used as
a free-standing heater, it is possible to achieve a reasonably safe
and functional installation IF certain standard procedures are
followed. The following are guidelines only and are intended to
enable the furnace user to obtain reasonable efficiency from his
furnace, and with due respect to safety when installing as a “freestanding heater”. If installed correctly, and in accordance with
the instructions found in this manual, your warm air furnace
may be installed as a “space heater” within living quarters, cabins, garage, or workshop. Please adhere to the following:
1. The use of a cold air return and/or filter box is mandatory.
This will not only increase your blower life and provide filtered air, it will also help prevent the blower or blowers from
“capturing” heated air exiting from the top of the furnace
heat outlets.
2. If installed as purchased , without directing the heat away
from the furnace itself, it will simply sit and cycle, turning
the blowers off and on. The thermostat may not function
properly.
3. All larger furnaces (or those with multi-speed blowers) absolutely require BACK PRESSURE to prevent premature
motor winding failure. If allowed to operate at high RPM
(As in “FREE AIR” mode - no duct work or flow restrictions) the windings overheat, insulation melts and the motor simply burns up - not covered under warranty.
The connector pipe must be constructed and installed so that
it maintains clearances, keeps condensation and creosote within
the pipe, and is capable of withstanding a 2100°F degree chimney fire.
1. The connector pipe should slant down toward the furnace
a minimum of 1/4” to the foot. At no time should the pipe
turn downward toward the chimney or run horizontal.
2. There should be no more than two 90 degree elbows.
3. The connector pipe should never be longer than six feet. If
it is absolutely necessary to make a run of more than six feet
(not recommended) use extra support brackets every 3 feet.
4. The connector pipe should never be reduced to a smaller
size than flue opening on the furnace.
5. The connector pipe should not block the flue of the chimney
or extend into it in any way.
6. A good airtight thimble should be used to hold the connector pipe in the chimney. It should be constructed so the connector pipe can be removed for cleaning.
7. The connector pipe should not leave the heated portion of
the building to reach the chimney.
8. The connector pipe should not pass from one story to the
next before entering the chimney, nor should it pass through
any closed or enclosed space.
9. The connector pipe and any elbows must be of 24 gauge or
greater.
10. The connector pipe should not be located near or in a walk
way or well traveled area.
11. All male ends of connector pipe should run or point towards the furnace.
12. Install a cast iron adjustable damper in the first joint of the
connector pipe, nearest to the flue collar.
DAMPERS ON STOVE PIPES
When burning coal, we recommend a Barometric Draft Damper
be installed at a safe convenient place between chimney and your
furnace preferably less than 3’ from the flue collar.
When you have installed the connector pipe between your furnace and the chimney, tap the pipe hard with your fingernail.
Remember the sound it makes - it will be a “ting” echoing inside
the stove pipe. If later you tap and hear a muffled thud, you are
4
HEATED AIR DISCHARGE
CONNECTING HOT AIR DUCT
TO FURNACE
We strongly recommend that the hot air duct work be installed
by a home heating specialist. If doing the installation yourself,
before you decide which installation will best suit your needs,
consult a qualified heating technician and follow his recommendations as to the safest and most efficient method of installation.
The following illustrations are the ONLY acceptable configurations when installed with existing oil or gas furnaces.
INSTALLATION EXAMPLES
Installation #1
With this installation, a back draft damper (optional) is inserted into the heat run before the plenum of the existing furnace
to prevent air from the existing furnace to blow back into the
furnace when it is not in use. When a back damper is employed, it should be located as close to the existing furnace plenum as practical.
INSTALLATION #2
Extending the hot air duct from the furnace into the existing plenum
will help direct the flow of air from the furnace as well as the flow
in the existing furnace. Ducting entering the existing plenum at an
angle (approximately 45 degrees) will facilitate air flow from the furnace while diverting air from the existing furnace.
INSTALLATION #3
The baffle on this system should be made the full width of the
furnace plenum in order to properly direct the air into the distribution ducts.
THE PLENUM OPENINGS DIFFER
BETWEEN THE 1602 AND 1802
MODEL 1602 - 13” x 18” Rectangular
MODEL 1802 - 18” x 18” Rectangular
5
RETURN AIR IS VERY IMPORTANT
When installing a Clayton Furnace, return air MUST BE incorporated into the system. Return air can be provided by installing
a separate duct system or by tying into the cold air return of an
existing gas or oil furnace. The cold air return duct can be connected to the furnace with either a factory manufactured U. S.
Stove filter box, model UFB908 or an equivalent fabricated from
sheet metal.
When installing a cold air return, the minimum size shall be a
16” x 20” or equivalent (320 sq. in.) in order to insure proper
furnace performance. Failure to provide return air ducts of the
specified size will void your warranty.
A filter should be installed in the cold air return. Furnace filters
should be checked and cleaned/replaced regularly.
If return air is not provided, the warm air distributed into your
home will be restricted and the efficiency of the furnace is decreased. Without a return air system, warm air will be drawn
into your basement, unnecessarily heating unused areas of the
home. In extreme cases, if your basement or utility room is fairly
airtight, the blowers on the furnace could depressurize the room
and pull toxic flue gases from the furnace, a gas water heater, or
gas furnace. The fumes could then be distributed throughout the
house.
washer over the threaded part of the handle, then attach the lock
nut. Tighten the nut, then back off 1/4 turn to allow free operation of the handle.
Follow these same directions for the ash door handle assembly.
(2) Door Handle
(2) 1/2” Washer
(2) 1/2” Lock Nut
ASH DOOR SPIN DRAFT
Screw the spin draft onto the 3/8” x 2-1/2” carriage bolt. Then
screw the spin draft and bolt into the ash door allowing approximately 1/2” of the bolt to stick through the back side of the ash
door. Secure the bolt in place with the 3/8”-16 lock nut.
(1) Spin Draft
(1) 3/8-16 Carriage Bolt
(1) 3/8-16 Lock Nut
FUEL & ASH DOOR LATCH
With two 1/4-20 x 3/4 hex bolts each, attach the door latches
to the door latch mounting brackets on the left side of the door
frames as illustrated. The slots in the brackets and latches are for
door seal adjustment. Make the proper adjustments, then tighten
the nuts. The door’s gasket should be snug against the door frame
on the furnace.
NEGATIVE
PRESSURE IN
BASEMENT
COMBUSTION AIR
All fires need air (specifically oxygen) to burn. Furnaces, fireplaces, and wood burning furnaces need enough oxygen for
complete combustion of their fuels. The incomplete combustion
that takes place when a furnace is “air starved” causes carbon
monoxide (CO) to be formed in quantities that can be dangerous inside a well sealed house. Having a source of combustion
air from outside the home will prevent “air starvation” of the furnace. A simple positive air supply can be constructed using dryer
vent and a modified termination.
FURNACE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Unpack your Furnace and insure that there is no shipping damage. If damage exist, please contact your dealer immediately.
Your Clayton Furnace will require some assembly before operation. All needed hardware and components for the following assemblies are included within the parts boxes inside the furnace
and in the ash pan. Read and follow these instructions for proper
furnace assembly.
DOOR HANDLES
Insert door handle into door. From rear side of door, place a 1/2”
6
(1) Feed Door Latch
(1) Ash Door Latch
(4) 1/4-20 x 3/4 Hex Bolt
(4) 1/4-20 Kep Nut
Feed Door
Illustration
Ash Door
Illustration
SHAKER GRATE HANDLE
SPRING HANDLES
Insert the Shaker Rod into the hole on the ash door frame as
shown. Then attach the Shaker Bracket to the front of the furnace using two 1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Bolts and two 1/4-20 Lock
Nuts. Next, insert the shaker Rod into the bracket and attach
to the shaker grate bar using the 1/4-20 x 1” Hex Bolt and a
1/4-20 Lock Nut. The bolt and nut retaining the shaker bar and
rod should be left loose to allow free movement of the grates.
(1) Shaker Rod
(1) Shaker Bracket
(1) 1/4-20 x 1” Hex Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Bolt
(3) 1/4-20 Lock Nut
Attach the four(4) spring handles to the Feed/Ash Doors, Baffle
Rod, and Shaker Rod by twisting the springs counter-clockwise
while applying pressure until you have screwed them approximately 3/4”-1” onto the rods.
(4) Spring Handles
BRACKET
DISTRIBUTION BLOWER & ACC.
1.
2.
3.
4.
SMOKE CURTAIN
Using two 1/4-20 x 1-1/4” Carriage bolts, the smoke curtain
clips and two nuts, attach the smoke curtain in place above the
Fuel Feed Door as shown below. After installation, the smoke
curtain should swing freely back into the furnace.
(1) Smoke Curtain
(2) Smoke Curtain Clips
(2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 Carriage Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 Kep Nut
5.
6.
1/4-20 NUT
SMOKE CURTAIN
CLIP
7.
1/4-20 x 1-1/4
CARRIAGE BOLT
SMOKE CURTAIN
NUT
BOLT
SMOKE CURTAIN
CLIP
Remove all contents and insure that all components are
present for assembly. See the part list below
Begin by attaching the blowers to the unit. Insert a clip into
each mounting hole in the furnace’s cabinet back. Be sure
to install the gasket between the blower and cabinet back.
Insert the eight bolts provided and tighten.
Mount the Honeywell limit control to the cabinet back.
The conduit assembly should already be attached to the
limit control, otherwise, do so then make the correct wiring connections to the limit control. See wiring diagram.
Next, mount the junction box and insulation using two of
the #10 x 1/2 screws provided. Make a small slice in the
5 x 5 insulation to allow the wires from the draft blower
to protrude, then Install it between the cabinet back and
junction box, with the foil side to the cabinet back. Attach
the conduit assembly from the limit control to the junction
box as shown.
If not already installed, snap the rocker switch into the top
of the junction box. Provide a 110 volt power supply and
connect to the junction box with the cable clamp to the
right side.
Attach the two longer conduit assemblies to the junction
box and to each blower.
Before mounting the Fan Center, make all the wire connections per the wiring diagram, then attach the fan center
to the junction box. All electrical connections should be
done by a qualified electrician.
SMOKE CURTAIN
FRONT
7
NOTE: The extra brown wire on the fan center has no use. It
should be capped off or removed.
The conduit may be cut shorter to provide a cleaner installation.
(2)
800 CFM Blower
(2)
Gasket, Blower
(8)
Tinnerman Clip, 1/4-20
(8)
1/4-20 x 3/4 Bolt
(2)
Conduit Assembly (5ft)
(1)
Honeywell Limit Control
(1)
Conduit Assembly (1ft)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(3)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(8)
Junction Box
Insulation (5” x 5”)
Rocker Switch
Romex Cable Clamp
Fan Center Control
73B Wire Nut
74B Wire Nut
Female Term. (blue)
Female Term. (red)
#10 x 1/2 Screw
WIRING DIAGRAM
8
FORCED DRAFT BLOWER - 69189
Using two 1/4-20 x 1” bolts and nuts, attach the draft blower adapter
to the draft tube on the front of the furnace. Then mount and secure
the draft blower to the adapter with the three 10-24 Kep nuts. Plug
the blower into the outlet on the front of the furnace.
(1) Draft Blower
(1) Draft Blower Adapter
(2) 1/4-20 x 1 Hex Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 Lock Nut
(3) 10-24 Kep Nut
FIREBRICK AND BAFFLE REPLACEMENT
FIREBOX BRICK REPLACEMENT
BAFFLE/BRICK REPLACEMENT
This furnace comes from the factory with the firebrick installed. However, if brick replacement is necessary, follow these
instructions. Before furnace operation, remove the brick retaining strip. This piece is used during shipping to reduce brick
damage.
For model 1602, there are 6 full brick and 1 half brick per side.
Install the half brick first by putting the bottom of the brick in
first and let it rest against the firebox side and fire grates. Then
slide it to the rear. After that, install the #2, #3, #4, #5 & #6
brick, sliding the 6th brick forward to allow for the 7th brick.
Repeat for opposite side.
For model 1802, there are 8 full brick and 1 half brick per side.
Install the brick in the same manner as previously instructed
for the model 1602.
If baffle replacement is necessary, slide the baffle out until you
can access the nuts thru the flue outlet. Once the nuts have
been removed, slide the baffle off the rod and thru the opening
in the firebrick. You may have to remove one of the firebrick to
make baffle removal easier.
For model 1602, there are 4 full brick and 1 half brick in the
top of the furnace. Install the brick by inserting one end of the
brick angled upward and then allowing the opposite end to rest
on the firebox lip. Lay the brick between the spacer and firebox
back. Slide the baffle to the rear and let it rest on that half brick.
After installing brick #2 in the front, install #3 and slide it under the baffle. Finally install bricks #4 and #5.
For model 1802, there are 6 full brick in the top of the furnace.
Install the brick in the same manner as previously instructed
above.
NOTE: Prior to operation, be sure to remove the brick retaining strips.
9
TESTING AND OPERATING PROCEDURES
GENERAL FURNACE OPERATION
After installation of the furnace is complete, it is ready for operation. The Honeywell Limit Control, in conjunction with a
wall thermostat, operates the distribution blowers and the draft
blower on the front of the furnace. The limit control can be adjusted to your desired blower On/Off times. The factory settings
are 100/150/200.
The wall thermostat setting operates the ON time of the draft
blower. If the temperature is below the setting on the wall thermostat, the draft blower will come on. (Recommended setting at
5 to 10 degrees higher than other heating thermostats.)
The first two set points on the limit control operates the distribution blower(s). When the furnace plenum reaches the second set
point on the limit control, the distribution blower(s) will come
on. If the temperature falls to the first set point, the distribution blower(s) will shut-off. The rocker switch on the top of the
junction box gives you the option to run one blower or two. If
the switch is ON, both blowers will come on when the plenum
reaches the set temperature.
When the furnace reaches the third set point on the limit control,
the draft blower will shut-off. The draft blower will come back on
if the temperature falls below the setting on the wall thermostat.
TESTING
1.
Check the draft blower by turning the room thermostat up
high enough so that the draft blower turns on. Then lower
the thermostat setting until you hear it shut off.
2. Use a sheet of newspaper to test your draft by placing it inside the furnace and lighting it.
With completion of the tests above, you are ready to light the
furnace. Follow the operating steps.
STARTING A WOOD FIRE
Using Forced Air Draft
The top down method of fire building is recommended for this
appliance. After making sure that the stove air intake controls
are fully open (completely pull-out towards you), Place the largest pieces of wood on the bottom, laid in parallel and close together. Smaller pieces are placed in a second layer, crossways to
the first. A third layer of still smaller pieces is laid crossways to
the second, this time with some spaces between. Then a fourth
layer of loose, small kindling and twisted newspaper sheets tops
off the pile.
Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally result when
burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.
DO NOT BURN:
1. Garbage;
2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;
3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;
4. Materials containing plastic;
5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint thinners, or asphalt products;
10
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Materials containing asbestos;
Construction or demolition debris;
Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;
Manure or animal remains;
Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water saturated
materials;
11. Unseasoned wood; or
12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or particleboard. The
prohibition against burning these materials does not prohibit the use of fire starters made from paper, cardboard,
saw dust, wax and similar substances for the purpose of
starting a fire in an affected wood heater.
Burning these materials may result in release of toxic fumes or
render the heater ineffective and cause smoke.
Dead wood lying on the forest floor should be considered wet,
and requires full seasoning time. Standing dead wood can usually be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned. Splitting and stacking
wood before it is stored accelerates drying time. Storing wood on
an elevated surface from the ground and under a cover or covered area from rain or snow also accelerates drying time. A good
indicator if wood is ready to burn is to check the piece ends. If
there are cracks radiating in all directions from the center then
the wood should be dry enough to burn. If your wood sizzles in
the fire, even though the surface is dry, it may not be fully cured,
and should be seasoned longer
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or “freshen
up” a fire in the furnace. Keep all such liquids well away from the
furnace while it is in use.
1. Open spin draft cap on ash door.
2. Pull the slide baffle rod to the front position.
3. Open the fuel load door and light fire using kindling and
several sheets of newspaper, then close the furnace door.
The furnace door should remain closed for 5 to 10 minutes
in order to establish the fire. If the fire has established, you
are ready to load the furnace.
CAUTION: To prevent flame and smoke spillage, the slide baffle
must be pulled out and the fuel door must be cracked for ten
seconds before being fully opened.
Do not over fire your furnace! After you have become familiar
with its operating, you should know how much wood to use.
4. Load the furnace, close the load door and push the slide
Baffle rod to rear.
5. Close the spin draft cap on ash door, leaving it cracked about
the diameter of a dime.
6. The forced air draft cycles on demand from the wall thermostat. Setting the U.S. Stove thermostat four degrees higher
than your existing thermostat is recommended. In operation, the power draft blower will run until the U.S. Stove
thermostat temperature setting is reached. The draft regulator on the forced air draft is preset at the factory and should
require no adjustment.
CAUTION: To avoid excessive temperatures, do not operate
with fuel door or ash pan open.
STARTING A COAL FIRE
3.
4.
5.
If you burn coal, a forced air draft is required
Shut off FAD when fuel door is open
Open smoke pipe damper all the way. Open all draft controls on your 1602/1802. Pull the slide baffle forward.
• Place about 10-15 lb. of coal in on the shaker grates. It should
come up to about half of the first firebrick level.
• Place crumpled paper over the coal and crisscross a couple
handfuls of dry kindling wood 3/4” in thickness on top of
paper.
• Ignite the paper and close loading door. Wait about 30 minutes until coal fire is established before adding more coal.
NOTE: NEVER load coal over the level of firebrick.
• Close by-pass damper and set all draft controls to your own
needs. It may take 3 to 4 coal fires to determine how your
local coal and the Clayton Furnace reacts together. Adjusts
drafts accordingly.
• Loading with a good bed of coals in the morning - Open
by-pass damper.
1. In normal shaking, only rock the grates a small amount to
sift ash through. Do not agitate the fire bed too often. This
practice will waste coal. If glowing coal is visible in the ash
pan, you have shaken to much.
2. Remove all ashes every day from ash pit.
CAUTION: Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a
tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed
on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from
all combustible materials pending final disposal. If the ashes are
disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they
should be retained in the closed container until all coals have
thoroughly cooled.
3. With your poker, push hot burning embers to the rear of the
unit and add green coal in front. NEVER load over height
of firebrick. This can result in damage to your furnace and
home.
4. Close by-pass damper.
• Too much draft air will cause clinkering of coal and will
waste heat up the chimney. Shut draft down to as low a point
as you can and still heat your home.
1. NOTE: Never stand in front of loading door when opening
it. Stand to the side.
2. NEVER completely cover the live fire with fresh coal. Always leave a generous area of glowing coal at the top of the
fire and at the rear.
3. Always keep the ash pit clean.
• If the fire goes out or does not hold overnight, look for:
1. Poor draft.
2. Incorrect damper settings.
6.
•
7.
•
•
•
Improper firing methods for coal being used.
More combustion air needed.
Coal not sized to the furnace. We recommend 1” to 3” diameter pieces of coal.
Ashes, if allowed to accumulate in the ash pit, will not allow the passage of required air for combustion. Keep ash
pit clean.
This furnace is not to be used with an automatic stoker unless so certified.
There are ONLY two types of coal allowed for use in this
furnace: Bituminous Coal (soft coal) and Anthracite Coal
(hard coal). NEVER USE Cannel (or Channel) coal or
Brown (Lignite) Coal.
See our Bulletin RC454 at the rear of this manual for the
best information available on burning coal.
Do not over draft the furnace! It is designed to operate at .06
inches of water column and must be set with a draft gauge
to maintain a steady draft. (Barometric Damper recommended.)
OPERATING NOTES
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Do not allow ashes to build up higher than 2” above grates.
Never allow the ashes in the ash pan touch the grate section.
REMOVE ASHES FREQUENTLY!
Be extremely careful when removing furnace ash pan; it can
get very hot.
With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or dirt on the
metal. You may smell an odor. This is normal during the
first operation. You may want to assemble the furnace out of
doors and build a small fire in it to “burn off ” this dirt and
oil before installing the unit.
The furnace is designed to burn air dried wood and coal at a
predetermined firing rate. Over firing could result in damage to the heat exchanger and cause dangerous operation.
Over firing occurs when the ash door is left open during
operation or a highly volatile fuel, i.e. large amounts of small
kindling, is used. If any portion of the connector pipe glows
orange or red, you are in an over-firing situation. Close all
dampers.
When tending the firebox always pull the baffle slide rod out
prior to opening load door. Open load door slowly to avoid
a “flash back”. After closing load door, push the baffle slide
rod to the rear.
Equip your home with fire extinguishers and smoke detectors appropriately located.
Inspect air filters regularly. The air filter in the filter box
should be changed at least every 30 days.
Oil motor on forced air draft every 90 days with a few drops
of 30 wt. oil.
The distribution blower motors may be one of two types. If
the motor has sealed bearings, no oiling is required.
If the motor is equipped with fill holes, the motor should be
THIS IS A WOOD AND COAL BURNING FURNACE AND SHOULD NOT BE ALTERED
IN ANY WAY! DOING SO WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!
11
oiled every 90 days with several drops of 30 wt. oil.
and therefore calculations using this heating value consider the heat going up the chimney as lost energy. Therefore, efficiency calculated using
the lower heating value of wood will be higher than efficiency calculated
using the higher heating value. In the United States all woodstove efficiencies should be calculated using the higher heating value.
•
Check the fit on the load door. It must fit tightly. If it does not,
check for deterioration or wear of the ceramic rope seal. Replace
defective seals.
•
Inspect and clean your chimney and stove pipe regularly.
•
In event of chimney fire, shut all draft controls and call your fire
department immediately. Alert everyone in the house. If the fire
is still burning vigorously, throw baking soda into firebox or discharge a fire extinguisher into the firebox. After chimney fire is
over, completely inspect system for damage before further use.
The best way to achieve optimum efficiencies is to learn the burn characteristic of you appliance and burn well-seasoned wood. Higher burn
rates are not always the best heating burn rates; after a good fire is established a lower burn rate may be a better option for efficient heating.
A lower burn rate slows the flow of usable heat out of the home through
the chimney, and it also consumes less wood.
•
NEVER throw water on the fire or at the furnace, as rapidly expanding steam could result in a severe scalding.
OPERATIONAL TIPS
•
Slow fires: It is not recommended burning the Clayton furnace any
more than necessary early in the fall and late spring, as you cannot keep the firebox hot enough (without overheating your home)
to burn gases. Slow fires can cause excessive creosote build-up in
smoke pipe, chimney and firebox.
Operational Tips for Good, Efficient, and Clean Combustion
•
Get the appliance hot and establish a good coal bed before adjusting to a low burn rate (this may take 30 minutes or more depending on your wood)
•
Use smaller pieces of wood during start-up and a high burn rate to
increase the stove temperature
•
Wood should be placed directly onto the cast iron shaker grate of
the Clayton furnace. Do not use additional grates and/or irons.
•
Be considerate of the environment and only burn dry wood
•
In the event of a power failure, you may operate the 1602/1802
furnace provided the following instructions are followed:
•
Burn small, intense fires instead of large, slow burning fires when
possible
1.
Any air filter should be removed.
•
2.
Observe the furnace operation closely and often till power is restored.
Learn your appliance’s operating characteristics to obtain optimum performance
•
•
Do not burn garbage, plastics, gasoline, drain oil or other flammable liquids. Plastics, when burned, form hydrofluoric and hydrochloric acids which will damage and destroy your furnace pipe
and chimney. The burning of trash or oil can result in an extremely
hot fire and is sometimes a cause of chimney fires. NEVER BURN
GREEN WOOD OR TIRES.
Burning unseasoned wet wood only hurts your stoves efficiency
and leads to accelerated creosote buildup in your chimney
•
Do not store fuel or other combustible material within marked installation clearances.
NOTE: For further information on using your furnace safely, obtain
a copy of the National Fire Protection Association publication “Using
Coal and Wood Stoves Safely.” NFPA NO. NW-8-1974. The address of
the NFPA is 470 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Massachusetts 02210.
TAMPER WARNING
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that
must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting
or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with
operating instructions in this manual.
VISIBLE SMOKE
The amount of visible smoke being produced can be an effective method
of determining how efficiently the combustion process is taking place at
the given settings. Visible smoke consist of unburned fuel and moisture
leaving your stove. Learn to adjust the air settings of your specific unit to
produce the smallest amount of visible smoke. Wood that has not been
seasoned properly and has a high wood moisture content will produce
excess visible smoke and burn poorly.
EFFICIENCY
Efficiencies can be based on either the lower heating value (LHV) or
the higher heating value (HHV) of the fuel. The lower heating value
is when water leaves the combustion process as a vapor, in the case of
woodstoves the moisture in the wood being burned leaves the stove as
a vapor. The higher heating value is when water leaves the combustion
process completely condensed. In the case of woodstoves this would assume the exhaust gases are room temperature when leaving the system,
12
OVER FIRING
Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in permanent damage to the heater.
ASH REMOVAL AND DISPOSAL
Whenever ashes get 3 to 4 inches deep in your firebox or ash pan, and
when the fire has burned down and cooled, remove excess ashes. Leave
an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the firebox bottom to help
maintain a hot charcoal bed.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The
closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor
or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending final
disposal. The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all
cinders have thoroughly cooled.
SMOKE AND CO MONITORS
Burning wood naturally produces smoke and carbon monoxide(CO)
emissions. CO is a poisonous gas when exposed to elevated concentrations for extended periods of time. While the modern combustion
systems in heaters drastically reduce the amount of CO emitted out the
chimney, exposure to the gases in closed or confined areas can be dangerous. Make sure your stove gaskets and chimney joints are in good
working order and sealing properly to ensure unintended exposure. It is
recommended that you use both smoke and CO monitors in areas having the potential to generate CO.
GASKETS
It is recommended that you change the door gasket (which makes your
stove door air tight) once a year, in order to insure good control over
the combustion, maximum efficiency and security. To change the door
gasket, simply remove the damaged one. Carefully clean the available
gasket groove, apply a high temperature silicone sold for this purpose,
and install the new gasket. You may light up your stove again approximately 24 hours after having completed this operation. This unit’s doors
each use a 3/8” diameter rope gasket.
TROUBLE SHOOTING AND PROBLEM SOLVING
Solution:
1. Problem:
A. Tighten blower wheel to motor shaft.
Smoke puffs from furnace
B. Check for bad fan bearings.
Solution:
A. Check chimney draft. Check for blocked chimney or flue pipe.
Use mirror to check chimney clearance.
5. Problem:
Distribution blower continues to run or will not run
B. Check ash pit — if it is too full, empty.
Solution:
C. Make sure furnace room is not too airtight.
A. Check fan limit or heat sensor and cable.
D. Make sure all of chimney mortar connections are airtight.
E. Check ash drawer. Make sure it’s airtight.
B. Check to see that blower is properly wired.
(See Wiring and Assembly Instructions).
F.
C. Check fuse box or power source.
Check chimney for possible down-draft caused by taller surrounding trees or objects. Correct with proper chimney vent cap.
G. Check the possibility of a cold chimney forcing cool gases
backward. Remedied by properly insulating chimney with noncombustible liner — non-combustible insulation.
D. Check power supply.
6. Problem:
Draft blower continues to run or will not run
Solution:
H. Fuel may be too green.
I.
Make sure no other fuel burning devices are connected to the
chimney impairing the draft.
J.
Check chimney draft, it should be .06 inches of water column.
This service is provided by a certified chimney sweep.
A. Check wiring.
B. Check thermostat or thermostat wire for short.
C. Make sure temperature is calling for heat.
7. Problem:
Odor from first fire
2. Problem:
Inadequate heat being delivered to your home
Solution:
Solution:
A. The odor from new steel should disappear in a few hours.
A. Check home insulation — is it adequate?
B. If the odor remains, call you dealer immediately. A bad weld can
cause a fume leak.
B. Check hook-up to furnace — is it installed correctly?
C. Cool air inlet may be inadequate or furnace room too airtight.
8.
Problem:
D. Your wood fuel may be too low grade. Hardwoods are recommended.
Excessive Creosote
E. Make sure your hot air duct (and other duct work) is airtight.
A. Check the grade of wood you are burning.
F.
B. Make sure your unit is serviced by its own proper chimney.
Solution:
If furnace room is warm but your home isn’t, check back draft
dampers.
C. Check length of flue pipe and its connections.
G. Is air to the blower available?
D. Make sure you are burning the smallest, hottest fire to adequately
heat your home.
3. Problem:
E. Also see Solutions to Problem one.
Excess smoke or flames coming out door when refueling
9.
Solution:
Problem:
A. Wait 15 seconds and open door SLOWLY — then refuel.
If the fire goes out or does not hold over night
B. Check length of flue pipe to chimney. Your unit should be within
six (6) feet of your chimney.
Solution:
C. Make sure chimney cap is not too close to the top of the chimney.
B. Incorrect damper settings.
D. Check chimney draft — make sure chimney flue pipe is clean
and chimney is of adequate height.
C. Improper firing methods if burning coal.
E. Make sure you’re not suffocating the fire with excessive amounts
of unburned wood.
E. Coal not sized to the furnace. We recommend 1” to 3” diameter
pieces of coal.
F.
F. Ashes, if allowed to accumulate in the ash pit, will not allow
passage of the required air for combustion. Keep ash pit clean.
Slide baffle should be pulled out prior to load door opening.
4. Problem:
Distribution blower vibrating
A. Poor Draft.
D. More combustion air needed.
G. This furnace is not to be used with an automatic stoker unless so
certified.
ATTENTION:
This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
13
PARTS DIAGRAM
23
35
34
28
29 30
34
22
36
33
21
20
3
18
19
16
4
17
3
2
1
27
25
26
37
24
3
8
9
7
10
6
14
15
16
17
2
5
13
12
11
14
3
32
31
PARTS DIAGRAM AND LIST
Key
1
2
Description
Part #
Qty
Key
Feed Door Assy. (w/Rope Gasket)
69091
1
36
P
Front Filler
Front Filler - 1800
23817
24190
1
37
P
Draft Cover
Draft Cover - 1800
23818
24508
1
Door Handle
24179
2
N/S
Lock Nut, 1/2-13
83444
2
N/S
Washer
83835
2
3
Spring Handle
89574
4
4
Feed Door Latch
23786
1
5
Ash Door Assy. (w/Rope Gasket)
68880
1
6
Draft Cap
23859
1
7
Ash Door Latch
23823
1
N/S
C21399
4
8
Shaker Handle
Hinge Pin, 5/16” x 1”
69005
1
9
Bracket, Shaker Handle
24204
1
10
P
Ash Pan
Ash Pan - 1800
68882
68919
1
40312
40337
1
11
P
Grate Retainer
Grate Retainer - 1800
12
Shaker Bar
891341
1
13
P
Shaker Grate Section
Shaker Grate Section - 1800
40314
.............
5
7
14
P
Back Liner
Back Liner - 1800
40313
40339
1
15
P
Front Liner
Front Liner - 1800
40344
40338
16
P
Full Firebrick (4-1/2 wide x 9 tall x 1-1/4 thick)
..............................................................................
89066
.............
16
22
17
P
Half Firebrick (2-1/4 wide x 9 tall x 1-1/4 thick)
..............................................................................
891414
.............
2
18
Slide Baffle
24231
19
P
Baffle Rod
Baffle Rod - 1800
86603
86607
2
2
1
1
Room Blower - 800 CFM
80530
2
88127
2
40
Tinnerman Clip, 1/4-20
83340
8
41
Bolt, 1/4-20 x 3/4
83339
8
42
Conduit Assembly (5ft)
69578
2
43
Honeywell Limit Control
80145
1
44
Conduit Assembly (1ft)
68859
1
45
Junction Box
25625
1
46
Insulation (5” x 5”)
25626
1
47
Rocker Switch
48
C42373
1
Romex Cable Clamp
80362
1
49
Fan Center Control
80130
1
50
Water Coil Access Cover
23819
1
N/S = Not Shown
P = Items designated for model 1800
IMPORTANT NOTE:
When ordering repair parts, a color code (G) should be placed after the part
number of any part that is painted.
46
45
48
1
1
83444
2
88032
1
22
Flue Collar
40246
1
23
P
Flue Collar Ring
Flue Collar Ring - 1800
24
Smoke Curtain
23800
1
25
Smoke Door Clip
23787
2
26
Carriage Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 Long
83445
2
27
Kep Nut, 1/4-20
83250
2
28
P
Cabinet Side, Left
Cabinet Side, Front Left - 1800
68821
68962
1
1
29
P
Insulation, Side
Insulation, Side - 1800
C98771
23977
2
2
43
1
1
30
Insulation Retainer
83884
41
31
P
Cabinet Side, Right
Cabinet Side, Right - 1800
68822
68961
1
N/S
Cabinet Side, Back - 1800
69002
2
32
Receptacle, Snap-In
80351
1
33
P
Cabinet Back
Cabinet Back - 1800
69573
69613
1
34
P
Insulation, Panel
Insulation, Back - 1800
C98871
23978
2
Insulation, Top - 1800
1
Blower Gasket
1
Lock Nut, 1/2-13
Cabinet Top
Cabinet Top - 1800
1
39
47
Gasket, Flue Collar
P
Qty
38
3
21
35
P
Part #
1
20
22761
23958
Description
44
50
49
42
40
39
1
1
38
41
2
23979
2
69088
68964
1
1
15
PARTS DIAGRAMS AND LISTS - 69189
1
2
4
Key
3
5
Description
Part #
Qty
1
Drqft Blower Assembly
69190
1
2
FAD Bracket
69192
1
3
Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1”
83379
2
4
Lock Nut, 1/4-20
83261
2
5
Kep Nut, 10-24
83244
3
UFB908 COLD AIR RETURN / FILTER BOX - OPTIONAL KIT
As mentioned earlier in this manual, a cold air return and/or
filter box should be incorporated into your furnace installation.
A cold air return or filter box will increase the life of your blowers and offer filtered distribution air for your home. U.S. Stove
offers the model UFB908 as an option and can be purchased
from your local dealer.
The UFB908 utilizes a standard 16” x 20” filter that can be
purchased from your local dealer or any hardware/duct work
supply store. When installing a UFB908, follow the installation
instructions supplied with the kit.
16
DOMESTIC HOT WATER COIL KIT - OPTIONAL
This Furnace will accept the installation of a Domestic Hot Water Coil Kit. The U.S. Stove kit is a 1124 Water Coil and it may
be purchased from your local dealer.
1. Remove the access panel on the rear of the furnace enclosure.
2. With a utility knife, cut away a section of the insulation (if
equipped) directly behind the access panel.
3. Remove the cover plate from the rear of the furnace firebox.
4. Place one nut on each end of the water coil and thread each
nut up to the end of the threads on the coil.
5. Insert the coil through the holes from the inside of the firebox. Install a gasket, washer and nut onto each end of the
water coil. Tighten the nuts down securely to insure an air
tight seal.
The installation is now ready to be plumbed to your existing
hot water system. Choose one of the three methods described
in the Hot Water Coil instructions.
6. Remove knockouts from the access panel and re-attach to
the furnace enclosure.
Have a qualified plumber connect your domestic hot water
pipe to the coil with the appropriate fittings.
2
1
ACCESS
PANEL
3
REAR WALL OF
FIREBOX
5
4
DOMESTIC HOT WATER
COIL
6
1. NUT
2. WASHER
3. GASKET
TURN INSIDE NUTS UP
TO END OF THREADS
DR6 - 6” DRAFT REGULATOR KIT - OPTIONAL KIT
In the unlikely event that your furnace “overfires” (a condition
evidenced by elbows, stove pipes, and connectors glowing red
in appearance or otherwise discoloring), then your installation is subject to excessive draft created by either a chimney
too tall or too great in diameter in conjunction with its height,
or some other factor of an indeterminate cause. In this event,
you should install a barometric draft regulator. Such installation will preclude any over-firing and/or any hazardous consequences of potential overfiring.
Barometric draft regulators are generally available where you
purchased your stove or may be ordered directly from United
States Stove Company at a nominal charge.
17
BULLETIN RC454
A GUIDE TO BURNING COAL IN YOUR FURNACE
Furnaces that are capable of burning coal usually will burn both
Bituminous and Anthracite coal. Anthracite is perhaps the best
coal fuel because of its long even burn time, high heat output,
and cleanliness which make it a good choice for the home. However, keep in mind it is a much more difficult fuel to use, requires
more care and patience, is not so widely available, and is usually
much more expensive than Bituminous.
SIZE OF COAL
Most sizes of Bituminous Coal will work in a coal furnace; for
best results we recommend large “nut” coal to small “egg” coal
(1-3/4” diameter to 4” diameter). When burning Anthracite, use
“egg” or “broken” with sizes between 2-5/16” thru 4-3/8”. Note
that it is important to the long life of your stove to buy coal which
has been sized and cleaned. Cleaning insures removal of rocks
and other minerals. Never use coal smaller than 1” or larger than
5” in diameter. Small sized coal will smother the fire. Too large a
size of coal will not burn well.
STOVE OPERATION
All coal fires should be started with wood which will allow the
fire to get hot enough to ignite the coal. The best ignition fires
utilize dry pine or other resinous soft woods as kindling, with
hard wood (oak, hickory, ash) added to increase the heat prior to
addition of the coal.
Before starting the fire, open the stove pipe damper (if epuipped),
turn the thermostat to high, open the ash pit door and feed door,
place newspaper and finely split kindling on the grate, light the
paper, add larger hard wood after the kindling is burning brightly. Caution: Never use gasoline, lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal
lighter fluid, or other flammable liquids to start or freshen up a
fire in any heater. Place the larger pieces of wood on the fire so
that they are slightly separated and form a level for the addition
of coal. It will take 10 to 20 minutes before this wood is thoroughly ignited. Adding coal too soon will cut the air supply and
smother the fire.
BURNING BITUMINOUS
Once your kindling and wood fire has produced a bed of well
established coals, start adding coal in layers allowing each to ignite before adding more. Bituminous has a high volatile content
and, as a result, should be fired with the “conical method” - with
the highest portion of your fire bed in the center of the firebox.
The first flames will be long and generally orange or yellow and
produce quite a bit of smoke. As the gases burn off the flames
become shorter, change color and produce less smoke.
Once the fire is WELL ESTABLISHED add coal to the center of
the firebox forming the cone. Burning in this fashion allows heat
to drive off the volatile gases, and turbulence created increases
the burn efficiency. There will have to be some experimenting
with the individual setup as no two chimney’s or installations are
going to be the same. Just remember to allow enough air to enter
the firebox and keep the stove pipe damper open so that volatiles
are properly burned. Before refueling, take the time to break up
the cone a little with a poker, especially if it has caked over or
formed a crust. But, be careful not to mix the coal as this increas18
es the chances of forming clinkers. When shaking the grate(s)
be gentle. Just a few short movements - a couple of “cranks” - is
better than a lot of agitation. The objective is to remove a small
amount of the ashes without disturbing the fire. Stop when you
see a glow in the ashes or the first red coals fall into the ash pan.
Excessive shaking wastes fuel and can expose the grate(s) to very
high temperatures which can cause warpage or burnout.
For overnight operation (long duration burn time) shake the fire
and add coal, retaining the center cone. Once the volatiles are
burned off, close the feed door and adjust the stove pipe damper,
if epuipped. Then adjust the thermostat to the desired heat level.
More MAINTENANCE will be needed with bituminous coal
than with anthracite coal as more soot will collect on heating
surfaces and in pipes, requiring more frequent cleaning.
ANTHRACITE
Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller chunks) to the wood
fire, being careful not to disturb it too much or cut off the draft.
Then, add a second heavier layer after the coal is ignited and
burning well. If necessary, add a third layer to bring the coal up
to the top of the front liner (not above!). Be sure to close the ash
door.
Before adding further fuel, be sure to leave a red spot of glowing
coals in the center of the firebox to insure that the fire has not
been smothered and to help ignite the gases given off by the new
charge. A deep charge will give a more even heat and a longer
fire, but it may take one to two hours before the whole bed is
fully ignited.
When the fire is well established and the room is becoming
warm, partially close the dampers. Some experimenting will
have to take place with each particular setting of all dampers and
controls as the chimney provides the draft necessary to not only
exhaust the smoke, but to pull combustion air into the heater as
well - and no two chimney’s perform the same. Under ideal draft
conditions, one should be able to turn the secondary air supply
below the feed door (some models) to a near closed position but leave the ash pit damper at least partially open to prevent the
fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipe damper to reduce the
draft on the fire. With anthracite there will be short blue flames
above the coal, except when the fire is started or a new charge is
added. If, however, there is no flame then the fire needs more air
from the bottom (unless it is near the end of its burn cycle and
needs to be recharged).
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original depth it
is time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open the stove pipe
damper and turn the thermostat damper to high, which will allow the fire to burn off any accumulated gases. Open the feed
door, and with a small rake, hoe, or hooked poker pull the glowing coals to the front of the firebox. Try not to disturb the fire too
much. Next, add a fresh charge to the back being careful not to
seal off the top. Close the feed door, but leave the spin damper
(or thermostat) open for a few minutes until the volatile gases
have burned off. It is not necessary to shake down the ashes each
time you refuel the furnace. Experience will be your best teacher.
BULLETIN RC454
A GUIDE TO BURNING COAL IN YOUR FURNACE
BANKING THE FIRE
For extended operation, such as overnight, the fire will need to
be banked. To do so heap coal up along the sides and back of the
firebox so that the fire gradually burns it over a longer period of
time. The intensity of the fire will also be reduced without letting
it go out. Follow the same procedure as for refueling. If possible,
avoid shaking, as a heavier layer of ash will help reduce the intensity of the fire during this time. After loading, let the fire establish
itself for about 30 minutes. Then close your damper and automatic control to the point where the house does not become too
cold. It is important that you begin banking early enough before
retiring or leaving that you can make necessary adjustments after
the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, (1) open the ash door and
stove pipe damper and close the spin damper under the door to
get a good draft through the grate. (2) place a thin layer of dry
coal over the entire top of the fire. DO NOT POKE OR SHAKE
THE FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) after the fresh coal has become
well ignited shake the grate (just a little), refuel.
DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous coal, sub
bituminous, lignite or cannel coal (sometimes called channel
coal or candle coal).
NEVER burn wax or chemically impregnated sawdust logs their intended use is for fireplaces only.
NEVER fill the stove or furnace above the firebrick or cast iron
liner.
19
HOW TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS
This manual will help you obtain efficient, dependable service from the furnace, and enable
you to order repair parts correctly.
Keep this manual in a safe place for future reference.
When placing an order or for warranty claims, please provide the following information
found on the Certification Plate located below the ash door.
PART NUMBER
PART DESCRIPTION
MODEL NUMBER - 1602 / 1802
SERIAL NUMBER______________
1602
1802
United States Stove Company
227 Industrial Park Road
P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
800-750-2723
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