Freestanding Gas Range---------------------------------------------------------------------- 4
VBSC Side by Side Refrigerator------------------------------------------------------------ 8
Water Quality---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20
VUAR Undercounter Icemaker-------------------------------------------------------------- 21
VUWC Undercounter Wine Cooler--------------------------------------------------------- 24
VUD Dishwasher------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 25
Outdoor Gas Grille---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
VUC Compactor------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
VGDO271 Gas Wall Oven------------------------------------------------------------------- 40
VEDO273 Electric Wall Oven--------------------------------------------------------------- 49
SELF-CLEAN DUAL FUEL AND ELECTRIC WALL OVENS---------------------- 56
Voltage and Resistance Reading – Printed Circuit (PC) Board
PC Wiring for Relays T4 – T3 – T2 – T1 – T6 – T5
Element Voltage and Resistance Readings
Selector Switch Internal Connections
Power Relay (current) Test VDSC – VESO – VEDO
VCBB Bottom Freezer / Refrigerator------------------------------------------------------ 64
Program Mode
Electronic Function Description
VCBB Troubleshooting Chart--------------------------------------------------------------- 77
Electronic Function Freezer Compartment
Electronic Function Refrigerator Compartment
Electronic Function Refrigerator and Freezer Compartment
Electronic Function Adaptive Defrost
Icemaker Troubleshooting Chart------------------------------------------------------------ 85
VGSC Self-Clean Freestanding Gas Range Troubleshooting Chart------------------- 88
VGSC306
VGSC306
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE__
---FREESTANDING GAS RANGE ----
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
1. No bake operation in bake 1
A
. No voltage to thermostat 1
A
. Check for 120VAC at the thermostat
or broil. terminals BA to Neutral. If no
2. No bake operation. Broil
operates
ignitor does not glow red.
2
A
. Defective thermostat
2 B. Defective ignitor.
2C. Open heater coil in gas valve.
2 B .Check ignitor for continuity. If no continuity is indicated or if ignitor does not glow when tested, replace the ignitor.
If the ignitor glows when tested or indicates continuity, check for broken wiring between the ignitor and gas valve. Proceed to 2C.
2C. Check gas valve heater coil for continuity.
If heater coil is open replace the gas valve.
If continuity is indicated, check for broken wiring between the gas valve and
thermostat.
3. No broil operation. Bake 3A. Defective thermostat
operates normally. Broil
3A.
Check thermostat contacts for
continuity contacts.or check for 120VAC at the tstat
ignitor does not glow red.
3B.Defective ignitor.
voltage is present check for broken wiring.
2
A
.
Check thermostat contacts for
continuity contacts or check for 120VAC at thermostat contact BA to Neutral. If no voltage is present or open contacts indicated, replace the thermostat. If voltage is present or contacts is closed, check for broken wiring between thermostat and ignitor.
Contacts BR to Neutral. If no voltage is present or open contact is indicated, replace the thermostat. If voltage is present or the contact is closed, check for broken wiring between the t-stat and
ignitor.
3B. Check the ignitor for continuity, if no continuity is indicated or if the ignitor does not glow when tested, replace the ignitor.If the ignitor glows when tested or indicated continuity, check for broken wiring between the ignitor and gas valve. Proceed to 3C.
3C. Check continuity. If the heater coil is open, replace the gas valve. If continuity is
4. No gas flow to the burner 4A. Defective ignitor
ignitor glows red. a) Intermittent burner flame 4B.Gas pressure too low . b) lighting only one side of c) gas odors --d) lowering
average temp. of oven. between the gas valve and thermostat.
4A. Check the ignitor current draw. If less
Than 3.2 amps replace the ignitor.
4B. Check the for correct gas pressure.
Nat gas pressure should be 5"WCP and LP gas pressure should be 10" WCP.
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE__
---FREESTANDING GAS RANGE ----
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE
5. Gas flows to bake/broil
burner but does not light.
5A. Ignitor position too far
From burner.
CORRECTION
5A.
Reposition ignitor closer to the
bake/broil burner.
5C.Insufficient gas pressure. 5C.
Check for correct gas pressure
. Pressure should be 5"WCP for natural gas or 10"
WCP for LP gas.
6.
Fan motor does not operate
6A.No power to the fan
motor.
Check oven shut off valve located on
the manifold.
6A.Check for 120VAC supplied to the fan motor. If no voltage is present, check
the
6B. Defective fan motor winding or frozen motor . shaft. selector switch for continuity and ,
for
check wiring between the selector switch and fan motor. If voltage is present at the fan motor proceed to 6B.
6B. Check the motor winding for continuity.
Check for a frozen motor shaft and check for broken wiring between the motor and neutral terminal block.
7.
Oven light does not operate
. 7A. out
7B. Defective light switch
7C. Defective light socket.
7B.
Check light switch contacts for
continuity.
7C. Check for 120VAC at the light socket terminals. If voltage is present, replace the socket. If no voltage is present
, check for broken wiring between the light switch and light socket.
8. Oven light stays on. 8A. Defective light switch 8A.
Check light switch contacts for
continuity
Replace
9. Oven indicator light does 9A.
No power to the indicator
9A. Check for broken wiring between the
not come. Light. thermostat and indicator and from the indicator to the neutral terminal block.
9B. Defective indicator light. 9B. Check for 120VAC at the indicator terminal. If voltage is present, replace
the
10.No spark at top burners 10A.No power 10A.Check power source.
10B.Broken
10C.Wire
Pinched wire. Electrode and spark module. switch no
Continuity replace switch. If continuity
11.Delayed ignition on top
Checks ok, check all wire connections.
10E.Defective spark module. 10E.Replace spark module.
11A.Electrode position 11A.Align electrode with burner port.
burner.
11BClogged
5
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE__
---FREESTANDING GAS RANGE ----
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE
12
. Intermittent spark or ghost
12A.Lack of or improper ground. 12A. Check ground at outlet. Check spark (Ghost spark occurs when the ignition system is in the off position at approximately every 20 minutes).
CORRECTION
ground.
13.
Continued reignition on top
13A.Defective spark switch or 13A. Replace switch.
burner. incorrect switch.
13B.Position of spark electrode 13B.
Align spark electrode with burner
Port.
13C.Lack of or improper ground
.
13C. ground at the module.
13D.Defective
14.
Yellow tipping - produces
14A.Lack
ment. primary air due to soot and blocks flueways. incorrect air shutter adjust-
14B.Blocked, dirty primary air openings or blocked burner ports
.
14A.
Open air shutter to get rid of
the yellow tips. CAUTION-too
much primary air will cause lifting,
14B. Clean and readjust burner noisy flames. Balance must be obtained
.
14C.An orifice hood out of line will 14C.
Align with burner venturi and tube
reduce primary air injection.
Clean drilled Orifice.
15.
Lifting flames- flames rise
15A.Lifting burner flames results 15A. Reduce primary air. from the ports to burn some distance above the port, also known as a noisy flame.
when the flow velocity of air- gas mixture from a port exceeds
the flame velocity. (Flame
Velocity -the speed at which a
flame moves through a fuel/air
Mixture.)
16. Fluctuating flame 16A.Normally caused by non 16A. Check gas pressure
Uniform gas pressure. a) supply regulator
16B. Check orifice for blockage.
b) dirt or dust
c
) excess grease from burner valve.
17.
Floating flame-lazy looking
, 17A. Lack of secondary air. no well defined inner cone, appears to be “reaching” for air. Normally a strong combustion
recirculated in the burner box
contaminate the air supply. aldehyde odor is present. 17B. The appliance may be over-
(Aldehyde-A class of compounds which have a pungent distinct odor.) rated. If so the flue outlet area
may be too small for the gas
rate.
17A. Open secondary air inlets.
17B. a) Decrease gas flow rate
b) check and clear any
blockage
found in the flueway.
c) check for blockage of burners
And clean if necessary.
d) Adjust primary air to get rid
of
any yellow tipping which may have produced soot to block the Flueway.
6
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE__
---FREESTANDING GAS RANGE ----
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE
18.Flashback-The air/gas mixture 18A. Under rated burner
ignites inside the burner to
CORRECTION
18A. Check orifice size. Increase size if necessary or increase gas
pressure.
a roaring noise like a blow
torch.
19. Extinction pop-A small explosion of gas in the burner head occurs when the burner is shut off.
18C.
Burner valve in on off
Adjust air shutter to reduce
primary
Flashback occurs with the air.
18C. Change burner valve.
18D. If #1,2 &3 corrections fail to probably , the valve is leaking.
19A. Similar to flashback. eliminate flash back, replace the burner.
19A. Reduce primary air supplied to the burner. CAUTION: do not allow yellow tipping during
normal burner operation.
19B. Check orifice size.
19C. Check gas pressure.
Check the gas supply and set the regulator to the proper supply of gas. A properly adjusted burner should be stable and quiet. The flame should have a sharp, well defined blue inner cone, no yellow tipping. The flame should also be stable and uniform with no flames lifting off the burner ports.
A. VGRC / VGSC I / R broiler construction prior to Feb. 1995 used one (1) screen support. The support was mounted internally from the venturi forward to the front of the broiler burner box. The screen support partially covered the glow coil
ignitor. This usually caused slow or delayed
ignition, especially when used LP gas.
B. A change in the manufacturing of the I / R broiler repositioned the screen supports.
The screen supports, now two (2), are positioned from, right to left. The glow coil ignitor is now completely open for igniting the gas almost immediately.
C. The first generation, VGR / VCM, screen support should be welded in four (4) places. A limited production run used pop rivets. The center of the rivets may fall out causing the broiler to back flash
to the venturi. Should this occur you can close the opening with a #6 machine screw. Any rear or puncture in the screen or opening in any welded seam also cause the broiler to back flash. will
7
The amount of warm food placed in the refrigerator affects running time and power consumption.
Generally speaking , when a supply of food is placed in the refrigerator, the unit will operate continuously until the food has been cooled down to the desired storage temperature. This continuous operation is normal. In regions where the ambient temperature is relatively high, an excessive warm load may cause overload cycles.
The length of time the door is left open and the number of times the door is opened should be held to a minimum. Excessive door openings will greatly increase running time, power consumption and frost build-up.
Uncovered foods and improper packaging materials and methods cause food to dry out. This reduces the flavor of the foods and results in an excessive frost build-up. Refer the customer to the OWNER’S
GUIDE which came with the refrigerator.
1. A warm room or other large source of heat ( such as range, heater, hot air duct, sunny window ) can affect performance. If the room ambient temperature exceeds 100*F, 100% running time can be expected.
2. At temperatures approaching 120*F, the unit may cycle on the overload.
3. In general, the warmer the room, the greater time and power consumption.
Refrigerators are designed to prevent “runoff” moisture at 90*F and 90% relative humidity. There may be a thin film of moisture on areas at a lower temperature and relative humidity. This is within design specifications and is not a fault of construction.
If possible, relocating the refrigerator in a less humid, better ventilated area will normally eliminate most moisture problems.
8
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE TEST PROCEDURE - ACTION
Compressor will not start No power at ON / OFF switch Plug in electrical outlet or turn on breaker.
No power at the compressor Press power switch to ON.
No power at the outlet
Thermostat: a. Turned off b. Points not closing
Check with test lamp or volt meter.
Should supply 110-120 volts AC, 60 HZ.
Turn knob clockwise
Place jumper between terminals. If comp- ressor starts, thermostat is defective and
Relay or overload Using starting cord, check compressor
Directly. If compressor starts, check relay and overload individually with ohmmeter and replace one found defective. If compressor doesn’t start, replace compressor.
Loose connections Check circuit from power source to comp- ressor using wiring diagram as guide.
Compressor runs, but no refrigeration or insuf- ficient refrigeration.
Motor windings open, shorted or grounded
Timer
Compressor stuck
Moisture restriction
Heavy frost around evaporator
Check windings with ohmmeter. See wiring diagram for resistance values. Replace
Compressor if motor is defective.
Timer may be in defrost cycle.
Turn clockwise past 2 o’clock.
Check timer and replace if defective.
Try starting with starter cord. If compressor won’t start, change compressor.
Heat frosted area. If frost line moves farther along coil after heating, restriction was prob- ably caused by moisture freeze up. Discharge unit, sweep the system and recharge.
9
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE TEST PROCEDURES-
ACTION
Compressor runs, but no Permanent restriction First check for moisture restriction.
Check for crimped or damaged tubing.
Repair or replace restricted component.
refrigeration or insuf-
ficient refrigeration
Compressor kicks out on
overload
Low charge or no charge
No capacity or low capacity compressor.
Air circulation on high side: a. Condenser or grille restricted by lint b. condenser fan motor running or running
slowly. c. Condenser fan motor top cover not in place.
High ambient and / or ab- normal usage.
Low or high voltage
Run capacitor
Check for leak. Add leak charge to get internal pressure. Repair leak or replace leaking component.
Check operating wattage and pressure.
See performance chart for wattage and high and low side pressures. Do not judge compressor to have low capacity until restrictions and low charge have been ruled out.
Clean condenser and air passage with vacuum cleaner.
Disconnect fan motor leads and check separately. Replace motor if defective.
Put condenser fan motor top cover in place.
On initial pull-down in high ambient, the compressor may cut off on overload.
Check voltage with voltmeter. Voltage at outlet should be 110 to 120 volts AC at the moment of start. Low voltage may cause false start s. High voltage may cause compressor to overheat.
Check capacitor. Replace if defective.
10
PROBLEM
Compressor kicks out on
overload (continued)
POSSIBLE CAUSE TEST PROCEDURE-ACTION
Air circulation on high side:
a. Condenser or grille restricted by lint
Clean condenser and air passage with vacuum cleaner. b. Condenser fan motor
Running or running
Slowly. c. Condenser fan motor
Top not in place.
Disconnect fan motor leads and check separ- ately. Replace motor if defective.
Put condenser fan motor top in place.
Relay and / or overload Replace with parts known to be good.
Motor windings shorted Check windings with ohmmeter. See wiring
Diagram for resistance values. Replace
Compressor if motor is defective.
Over charge Check for high wattage and frosted suction
Line. Evacuate and recharge with correct
charge.
Freezer compartment too Thermostat:
warm. a. Set too warm b. Sensing tube not prop-
Turn knob to higher setting.
See that sensing tube is properly positioned. c. Out of calibration or
Not functioning
Interior air circulation a. Fan b. Restriction in ducts
Abnormal usage
Bad door seal or door not closing.
Check thermostat for cut-in and cut-out temperatures. Replace if necessary.
Check evaporator fan. Replace if defective.
Check for and remove obstruction in ducts.
Instruct customer.
Adjust door to obtain proper seal.
Instruct customer to make sure door closes
completely.
11
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE TEST PROCEDURE-
Freezer compartment too warm (continued)
High ambient temperature Locate in area our of direct rays of sun and away from heat registers or other source of heat.
Cabinet light Check to make sure door switch is closed. Replace or adjust switch if necessary.
Excessive frost on evaporator.
Unit:
Run b. Compressor runs
continuously
Check items under complaint,
“incom-
Check items under complaint,“Com- pressor won’t run.
Check items under complaint,“Com- pressor runs, but no refrigeration or
Refrigerator compart-
ment too warm
Motorized Air Door: a. Baffle closed b. Baffle is stuck closed
Check for a motor winding resistance of
8800 ohms between the BE/Y andW wires or the Y/R and W wires. If the meter reading shows “open”for both
BE/Y and Y/R wires, replace motor.
Check for iced door.Remove ice and eliminate moisture entering due to air leak.
Electronic control board: a. Set too warm b. Baffle stuck closed
Turn knob to colder position.
Check for 120 v. between the
OR/W and W wires at circuit board plug.
NOTE:
Use static control gloves when handling electronic control board.
Thermistor: a. Sends wrong or high
resistance signal to control board. b. Others, same as
“Freezer compart-
ment too warm
Check resistance for given
temperature at
GY
wires.An open or infinite resis- tance reading closes the door.Replace
Same as items under, “Freezer compartment too warm.”
12
PROBLEM
Internal Sweating
Incomplete defrosting or
high cabinet tempera-
tures during defrost .
Taste and odor
POSSIBLE CAUSE TEST PROCEDURE-ACTION
Abnormal usage Instruct customer to cover foods and
Door Seal liquids.
Adjust door for proper seal.
Insufficient air circulation
Limit switch
Timer
Defrost Heater
Drain clogged
Odorous food
Hot plastic
Make sure return air flow is not restricted.
Increase cold air flow by operating refrigerator compartment as cold as possible without freezing food.
Check bimetal defrost control. If bimetal opens too soon defrost will be incomplete and frost will accumulate.
If bimetal is stuck closed or opens too late, high cabinet temperature will result. A loose bimetal may cause the defrost heater to stay on too long.
Change bimetal if defective.
Check timer for proper operation. Timer should initiate 21 minute defrost cycle every 10 hours. Replace if defective.
Check defrost heater with ohmmeter.
Inoperative defrost heater will result in frost and ice accumulation on evaporator.
Replace if defective.
Clogged drain may result in ice buildup in evaporator. Clear drain system.
Instruct customer to keep food covered and clean refrigerator and freezer with solution of baking soda and water.
Explain how odor and taste of food in refrigerator can be absorbed by ice cubes in freezer due to internal air circulation.
Check for a heater in contact with plastic or sealing compound, which may cause odor.
13
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE TEST PROCEDURE-TEST
Door will not close or will
Not seal
Gasket binding Adjust hinges, add shims if necessary.
Lubricate face of gasket on hinge side
Door warped
Cabinet racked
Loosen retainer screws and rack door
To fit cabinet.
Level cabinet; make sure cabinet is setting solidly at all four corners.
THE MOTORIZED AIR DOOR
The electronic control board, located inside the refrigerator control cover, controls the operation of the motorized air door, the thermistor and the evaporator fan motor.
120 volts AC is supplied to the electronic control board through the BK wire and operates the circuit as follows:
1. To open the baffle: 120 volts AC is supplied to the baffle motor through the Y/R wire and switch SW1 (Fig.31-C). The motor rotates 270* from the “closed” position (Fig.31-A) to the
“open” position where it contacts SW1 which opens and parks the motor.
2. To close the baffle: 120 volts AC is supplied to the baffle motor through the W/BR wire and
Switch SW2 (Fig.31-C). The motor rotates 90* from the “open” position (Fig.31-B) to the
“closed” position where it contacts SW2 which opens and parks the motor.
2. 120 volts AC is supplied through the OR/W wire to the electronic control board which energizes the evaporator fan motor and supplies low voltage to the thermistor.
14
CHECKING CONTINUITY
To make component or wiring measurements, set an ohmmeter’s RANGE switch at R x 1 (unless directed otherwise.) For all “ground” measurements, set the RANGE switch to R x 10k. Insert the ohmmeter probes into the plug pins or against the component terminals as directed in the procedure.
COMPONENT TEST PROCEDURE METER READINGS
THERMISTOR
DEFROST
HEATER
The thermistor can be tested by measuring the resistance between
The GY wires at the thermistor con-
Temperature(*F)=Resistance(Ohms)
35*F = 8240 - 8926 65*F = 3628 - 3930 nector or at the DC connector of the 40*F = 7143 - 7739 70*F = 3189 - 3455 electronic control board. Making the 45*F = 6209 - 6727 75*F = 2810 - 3044 test at the board is an easy way to check out the thermistor wiring har-
50*F = 5410 - 5860 80*F = 2480 - 2687
55*F = 4724 - 5118 85*F = 2194 - 2376 ness. The “Meter Readings” show the thermistor resistance over a
60*F = 4235 - 4479 90*F = 1945 - 2107
Disconnect the defrost heaters wire connector from the wiring harness.
Touch the ohmmeter probes to the
The ohmmeter should indicate approxi- mately 19 ohms to 20 ohms.
BIMETAL
Ground Test:
Touch one probe Should indicate an “open’ circuit for both to the chassis and the other to each pin.
Make sure that the freezer is cold
Enough to close the bimetal con- tacts. The bimetal contacts close at approximately 20*F +/- 8*F and open at approximately 50*F +/- 8*F. pins. Any resistance indicates a short circuit.
Disconnect the 2-pin bimetal con- nector (PX and BR wires) from the probes to the pins on the ends to the wires.
EVAPORATOR Disconnect the wire terminals from
FAN MOTOR the motor. Touch the ohmmeter probes to the motor terminals.
Continuity if the evaporator temperature is below 12*F. No continuity if the wiring harness. Touch the ohmmeter evaporator temperature is above 56*F.
The ohmmeter should indicate between
40 ohms and 80 ohms.
To the chassis and the other to each
wiring connector.
Any resistance indicates a short circuit
15
COMPONENT TEST PROCEDURE METER READING
MOTORIZED
AIR DOOR
Disconnect the wire terminals from the motor and touch the ohmmeter probes to the connector pins as fol- lows:
1. Y/BR and W wires
2. Y/ R and W wires
Approximately 8800 ohms between the
W/BR and W wires OR the Y/R and W wires.
ICE MAKER
FILL VALVE
Disconnect the solenoid wiring con- nector. Touch the ohmmeter probes to the solenoid terminals.
The ohmmeter should indicate approximately 270 ohms.
Ground Test:
Touch one probe to the chassis and the other to each solenoid terminal.
Should indicate an “open” circuit for both terminals. Any resistance indicates a short circuit.
CONDENSER
FAN MOTOR
THERMOSTAT
COMPRESSOR
OVERLOAD
PROTECTOR
Disconnect the condenser fan motor connector from the wiring harness.
Touch the ohmmeter probes to the motor wire connector pins.
Ground Test:
Touch one probe Should indicate an “open” circuit for each to the chassis and the other to each motor wiring connector. connector. Any resistance indicates a short circuit.
Disconnect thr thermostat wiring connector. Touch the ohmmeter probes to the thermostat connector pins.
Touch the ohmmeter probes to the
S and C connector pins.
Touch the ohmmeter probes to the
M and C connector pins.
With the thermostat turned fully clock- wise, the ohmmeter should show
“continuity.” Fully counter clockwise rotation should show “no continuity.”
Ground Test:
Touch one probe Each connector should indicate an “open” to the chassis and the other probe to the S, M and C connectors. circuit. Any resistance indicates a shorted winding.
Touch the ohmmeter probes to the two terminals.
The ohmmeter should indicate between
115 ohms and 450 ohms.
The ohmmeter should indicate between
4 ohms and 22 ohms.
The ohmmeter should indicate between
1 ohm and 4 ohms.
The switch is normally closed (N.C.), so the ohmmeter should show continuity
16
COMPONENT TEST PROCEDURE METER READING
PTC START
RELAY
The PTC Start Relay cannot be tested.
To determine its reliability, use the following procedure:
1. Measure the R and W wires at the compressor for 120 volts AC.
2. Check the overload relay to make sure there is continuity through
It. (Use the previous test proced-
ure.)
3. Test the run capacitor. (Use the following test procedure.)
4. Use a test cord and start the com- pressor. If it starts, and the pre- ceding checks are okay, the relay
RUN
CAPACITOR
Disconnect the wires and touch the ohmmeter probes to the two terminals.
The ohmmeter reading should peak and then drop. Reverse the test probes on the terminals and the same results should occur.
TIMER
NOTE:
The
production
timer (Paragon)
has a 10 hour
To test the timer, perform the follow-
1. Use a screwdriver and manually turn the time clockwise until you hear a “click.” This will place the timer in the “defrost” position
cumulative
run time with
a 21 minute
Defrost if the refrigerator was running, the compressor and fans will turn off.
2. Unplug the unit.
duration.
The service re-
3. Disconnect the 4 wire connector from the timer.
placement timer 4. Set the ohmmeter to the Rx10k.
an 8 hour Checking the Motor: run
time with a 21 1a. Paragon Timer: The motor wind-
minute defrost
duration. ings have a capacitor connected
In series. Use the same procedure that you would use for checking a capacitor. Momentarily touch the probes to terminals PK and R, then reverse the probes and touch
Paragon Timer - When you first touch the terminals the meter should momen- tarily deflect and show continuity.
17
COMPONENT TEST PROCEDURE METER READING
TIMER
(Continued) 1b. Mallory Timer: Touch the meter probes to timer ter- minals PK and R (motor
Mallory Timer - the meter should read 6000 ohms to 9000 ohms.
windings).
The Defrost Mode
1. Set the ohmmeter to Rx1 scale and zero the meter.
2. Touch the meter probes to timer terminals PK and
BK (switch contacts.)
3. Touch the meter probes terminals BK and OR
(switch contacts.)
The meter should read “ zero” resistance
(contacts closed.) If it reads anything else, replace the timer.
The meter should read “infinity” (con- tacts open.) If it reads anything else, replace the timer.
1. Use a screwdriver and
Manually advance the
Time 1/4 turn.
2. Touch the meter probes to timer terminals BK and OR (switch contacts.)
3. Touch the meter probe to timer terminals PK and BK (switch contacts.)
The meter should read “zero” resistance
(contacts closed.) If it reads anything else, replace the timer.
The meter should read “infinity” (con- tacts open.) If it reads anything else replace the timer.
18
WHAT’S IN WATER
INGREDIENT
Algae or Sulfides
Minerals:
Sodium
Potassium
Manganese
Calcium
EFFECT
A. IT AFFECTS ICE QUALITY
Objectionable
Taste and Odor
Slow Cutting
Refreezing
CORRECTION
Carbon Filter
1. Check: a. Water flow restriction,
Iron
Chlorine
Manganese
Permanent
Hardness
B. IT AFFECTS ICE MAKING
Staining
(Aesthetic only)
1. Citric acid or liquid ice machine
cleaner. (Citric acid works best)
2. Water softener AND iron filter.
Scale
Calcium or Magnesium
Sulfates
Chlorides
Nitrates
Temporary
Hardness
Calcium or Magnesium
Scale
2. Polyphosphate feeder or water
softener reduces or eliminates
1. Liquid ice machine cleaner.
2. Polyphosphate feeder or water
softener reduces frequency of
Carbonates
RECOMMENDATIONS:
Water softeners or polyphosphate feeders are not cure-all, but do reduce (and in some cases, prevent) scale build-up. They are particularly effective in controlling sulfate scale, which is rock-like and can be removed only by sanding, scraping or chiseling.
Caution: Some polyphosphate feeders cause slime build-up, so their use in low mineral content water
should be carefully considered.
(Continued)
When the ice slab takes too long to divide into cubes because the water supply has a high mineral content, a special replacement transformer is available from your parts distributor. This transformer has a selectable 11- volt tap that will increase the heat of the cutter grid wires, helping divide the ice slab into ice cubes faster.
19
WHAT’S IN WATER
C. WATER TESTING
Water testing is necessary to determine the amount of minerals in a water supply that affect ice and the ice maker.
T.D.S.
Chlorides
(Total Dissolved Solids) is the test for the total concentration of all minerals present in the water.
Are tested to determine the degree of cloudy ice and
Small concentrations of minerals do not affect the ice quality or cause excessive scale build-up.
However, amounts which have an adverse effect are:
TEST
T.D.S.
CONCENTRATION
50-1000 ppm or higher
EFFECT
ON ICE
Cloudy slow cutting refreezing
EFFECT
ON ICE MAKER
Temporary and permanent scale build-up
Chlorides
Alkaloids
200-300 ppm or higher
300-400 ppm or higher
Major cause of cloudy ice, refreezing
Cloudy slow cutting refreezing
Temporary and permanent build-up
Temporary and permanent
Total 5-10 GPG*
hardness
Clear ice
10-15 GPG
15-20 GPG
(255-340 ppm)
20 GPG and up
(340 ppm and up)
Minimum scale
Slightly cloudy
Noticeably cloudy possibly slow cutting
Severely cloudy
Slow cutting
Refreezing build-up
Moderate scale build-up
Serious scale build-up
Excessive scale build-up
*Grains/Gallon
Water treatment companies usually have the equipment to test water. Most city water departments can supply information concerning the mineral content in the water.
20
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
---
UNDERCOUNTER ICE MACHINE ---
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
1.Unit will not Operate 1a. Service control switch not turned on 1a. Turn control service switch on
2b. Bin is already full of ice up to the bin 2b. Check ice level. thermostat.
3c. Power is not available to the unit. 3c. Check fuse or breaker, and unit’s power plug.
2. Power is available to 2a. Ice is stuck between the wall and
the unit, but the
compressor or water the bin thermostat well.
pump is not running. 2b. The compressor, relay or overload protector are not operating.
2c. The water pump is not operating.
2a. If the cutter grid is warm, check for ice between the wall and t the bin thermostat.
2b. See component testing section
(Page 26).
2c. See component testing section
3. Ice cubes hanging
on to the bottom of
wires.
4. Uneven built-up of
on evaporator plate.
3a. The water valve is restricted. filter to remove minerals.
3b. The drain in the water reservoir pan is restricted.
3c. There is excessive mineral content
In the water supply.
5. Unit not making
ice ,compressor
5a. The evaporator freezing plate is not getting cold.
Running and water 5b. The hot gas valve is not operating
flow over evaporator properly.
plate
6. Ice slab not
releasing from
evaporator
plate during the
HARVEST cycle
4a. The water valve is restricted.
4b. There is little or no water in the water reservoir pan.
4c. The drain plug is not in place on bottom of the water reservoir pan.
4d. The water level is over the top of the drain tube in the reservoir pan at the beginning of the ICE MAKING cycle.
4e. The water restrictor or the holes in the distributor are plugged.
4f. The water pump is not operating.
6a. The hot gas valve is not operating properly.
6b. The evaporator plate is nicked or scratched, or covered with a mineral
3a. Check water valve assembly and screen for clogging.
3b. Remove restriction.
3c. Check water for increased mineral content. Use charcoal
Filter to remove minerals.
4a. Check water valve assembly and screen clogged.
4b. Check water pump.
4c. Check drain plug.
4d. Check sump pump operation.
4e. Clean and unplug the distrib- utor holes.
4f. Feel under the pump to make sure the agitator arm has not
5a. The plate should feel cold during the
ICE MAKING
cycle.
5b. See component testing section
(Page 26)
6a. See component testing section
(Page 26)
6b. Inspect the evaporator plate. replace if damaged. build-up.
6c. The condensate pump is not pumping 6c. See component testing section. out the water. The pressure switch will terminate the HARVEST cycle.
(Page 26)
21
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
---
UNDERCOUNTER ICE MACHINE ---
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
7. Too thick of an ice slab 7a. The hot gas valve is not operat- 7a. See component testing section
forming. properly.
7b. The evaporator thermostat is not operating properly.
7b. The thermostat should open and close at the temperatures indicated on the unit’s tech sheet.
7c. The evaporator plate is nicked or 7c. Inspect evaporator plate, replace scratched, or covered with a mineral build-up. if necessary. Test water supply for high mineral content.
8. Ice Slab with hollow area in
the center.
9. Ice slab with a lip over the
front of the evaporator
freezer plate.
10. Ice slab with side flanges
11. Ice ball forming on the
capillary tube at the
evaporator inlet.
12. Frost between outlet of the
evaporator and the accumulator
13. Sweating or frost on suction
line.
14. Unit still making ice after bin
is full.
8a. The water valve is stuck open.
8b. The hot gas valve is leaking.
8c. The refrigeration sealed system is under charged, or partially restricted.
9a. The capillary tube has broken loose.
10a The hot gas valve has a small
leaks.
9a. Check underneath the front edge for a separation of the capillary from the edge of the evaporator plate.
10a. See component testing section
26)
11a. The bin door is cracked open, or 11a. Check door seal and replace the door seal is leaking. if damaged.
11b. The insulation bag is not in place 11b. Reposition the insulation bag. blocking the passage of warm air from the unit compartment into the evaporator area.
12a. The ice thickness control is set too high, and too thick of an ice slab is forming.
12b. There is an over charge in the
13a. The accumulator is not level,
(Horizontal).
13b. There is an over charge in the
14a. The bin thermostat is not operating properly. (The thermostat should open and close at the temperatures indicated on unit’s tech sheet ).
8a. Listen for water running out the drain during the ICE MAKING cycle.
8b. See component testing section
(Page 26)
8c. Check sealed system for leaks and for restrictions.
12a.Reset the thickness control.
12b. Check sealed system for over
13a. Level accumulator (Ice machine).
13b. Check sealed system for over refrigeration sealed system. restrictions.
14 a. Check position of thermostat.
Change bin thermostat.
22
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
---UNDERCOUNTER ICE MACHINE---
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
15. Excessive amount of water 15a. The overflow tube in the water 15a. Clear the restriction from the over- dripping onto cubes in bin. reservoir pan is restricted.
15b. The drain plug is not tightly inserted in the bottom of the reservoir pan.
15c. The water inlet tube is not properly installed into the reservoir pan. flow tube.
15b. Check and secure the drain plug.
15c. Check position of the water inlet tube.
15d. The drain tube is leaking. 15d.
15e. Clear ice away from the cutter grid.
16. Ice in bin melting very fast
15e. Ice is jammed up on the cutter grid, forming a bridge from the evaporator plate.
15f. The lip on the front of the evaporator plate is bent outward.
15g. The deflector, if installed, is not positioned properly.
16a. The bin door is not closing properly, or the door seals are leaking.
15f. straighten or replace evaporator plate.
15g. Check installation and reposition as needed.
16a. Check door seals for damage, straighten seals or replace.
16b. The evaporator plate is nicked, 16b. Check for damage to evaporator scratched, or has excessive mineral build-up. plate. Replace if needed. Check for excessive mineral content in
16c. The hot gas valve is not operat- 16c. See component testing section
ing
16d. The insulation under the bin is 16d. Check for a hole or tear in the wet. insulation bag. Replace the insul-
16e. The bin drain partially blocked, 16e. Check for kink in the drain hose causing a slow run off of melt- ing water. under the bin, or a blockage inside the bin at the drain.
16f. If a water softener is adding too much sodium (salt) to the water supply, the ice produced in the Ice maker will melt at a
16f. Check the salt content in the incoming water supply. lower temperature.
NOTE: Customers should be informed not to store drinks, juices, etc. in the ice maker.
Another phenomena that may be encountered in the ice machine is slushing. Often after servicing a unit, when the unit is powered up, there is the temptation to leave the bin door open to be able to observe that the ICE
MAKING cycle begins properly.
When warm air is allowed to enter the bin area during the beginning of an ICE MAKING cycle, the water flowing over the evaporator plate may only freeze into a loose slush. This slush will melt off the plate back into the reservoir pan where it may cause the water pump to stall (stop operating).
If the bin door is closed after the slushing is noted, the slush in the reservoir pan will rapidly melt and the ice maker will once again begin to operate properly.
23
WINE COOLER
Problem
Odor in cabinet
Noisy operation / cabinet vibrates
Cabinet light not working
Appliance will not run
Appliance runs too long
Moisture collects inside
Moisture collects on outside surface
Possible Cause / Solution
Interior needs cleaning
Cabinet not level; weak floor
Bulb burned out; no power to outlet.
Temperature control turned to “OFF”; line cord not plugged in; no power at electrical outlet; house fuse
blown.
Prolonged door openings; control set too cold;
condenser
Too many door openings; Prolonged door openings; hot, humid weather increases condensation.
Hot humid weather increases condensation; as humidity decreases, moisture will disappear; control
Interior too hot / too cold
LIGHT BULB REPLACEMENT
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU
DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD BEFORE
ATTEMPTING LIGHT BULB
REPLACEMENT.
The unit uses a 15-watt, intermediate base bulb and is located inside the light shield. The light shield is on the ceiling of the unit and is held in place by the use of three screws. Remove the three screws and light shield to remove the light bulb. Do not replace bulb with a bulb higher than 15 watts.
Control improperly set; faulty thermostat; relocate thermostat to center of cabinet and recheck.
24
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
----DISHWASHER ----
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE SOLUTION
Not Filling With Water 1. Water Valve off 1a. Turn water valve on
2. Undercarriage flooded
(See continuous drain
3. Open fill valve
4. Clogged fill valve
2a. Clogged air gap, hose, pump
b. Loose waterline connection
c. Hole in system hose: pump, drain, washer motor, spray arm
3a. Replace fill valve
4a.
High water pressure, stuck fill valve,
faulty pressure switch
5. Loose connection
6. Door switch
5a. Check all wiring and repair
6a. Open or switch out of bracket
7a. Replace as needed
Unit always on or not
7. Timer or selector open or burned
contacts
1. Check door switch. Door switch
turning on when door may :
(Interior light hot when a. Open door first opened) b. Come loose from bracket
c.
Have burnt wire ends (connector) a. Replace door switch b.
Replace bracket and switch, if needed.
c. Replace wire or wire connectors
Continuous Drain
Check door switch bracket (lock guard).
Bracket may have a weak containing arm for the micro switch.
(Undercarriage full of 1.Check for a clogged drain system
water) In states where air gaps exist or
in homes where an air gap is
installed, check for a clogged air
gap or drain hose.
1a. Clear clog and advise customer on
how to maintain a clean air gap
2.Any restriction from the drain pump 2a. In some cases two (2) drain hoses
can cause a build up of pressure may be connected causing a vortex
and a temporary separation of the
drain pump housing, thus filling the
3.When the under carriage fills with
water a float safety switch is
activated causing the unit to go into
a pump out mode. The dishwasher
must be disconnected from power
and the water in the undercarriage
removed completely in order to
reset the dishwasher into a normal
mode. at the connection. This vortex may
cause larger particles to clog in
drain hose or at vortex.
Remember - anything can be found in drain hose. Some things to watch for are: toothpicks, fish bones, flatware, and crystal labels, seeds, broken toys, etc.
4.Check overflow switch 4a. Replace open overflow switch
Continuous Drain
(Con’t)
5. Check for leaks:
5a. At door
5b. Lens cover for interior light
5c. Hoses and loose clamps
5a. Plum and square dishwasher
5b. Replace lens mount and lens
5c. Tighten fittings or advise custoner to contact
Installer or plumber. (Recommend using an
Rapid timer advance
7. Timer may be misaligned to
causing
1.Faulty timer
2.Under
Excessive water in tub 1.Check when float switch is
activated original hose clamp and crimping tool)
6. Timer motor may have stalled 6a. Replace timer
7a. Align timer
1a. Replace timer
2a. (See continuous drain)
1a. Replace float switch
2a. Check for leak in hose
Interior too hot or melt- 1. Element shaped incorrectly
ing silverware container
and
2. Temperature switch out of
1a. Bend element down in high areas
1b. Replace element
2a. Remount temperature switch
Bracket or temperature switch 2b. Replace faulty temperature switch
remaining closed beyond high 2c. Replace damaged parts
limit.
Film on dishes 1. Water contains too many
minerals.
2. Unit reusing old water or
(See
3. Open drain pump
4. Water not hot enough
2a. Drain system clogged - clear drain
3a. Replace drain pump
4a. Heater coil open, fractured wire
Base pan area full of
water
Not drying dishes
empty or valve not opening
(See continuous drain)
5a. Check continuity to detergent dispenser
1. Ventilator air fan malfunct-
Ioning
2. Blower fan not working
air flow.
1a. Check air flow through ventilator at bottom of
door.
2a. Replace blower fan / check wiring
3a. Check continuity / replace solenoid
4a. Replace heating element.
Power supply: Always disconnect unit from power before servicing.
NEVER ASSUME:
1) Unit voltage has been disconnected. Check line voltage at dishwasher. 2) Breaker will remain off during service - anyone at anytime for any reason may turn breaker on, take precautions, especially when other workers are on job site.
Mounting Problems: Always mount and secure dishwasher square and plum
Drain: Always use same size drain hose and connectors and do not detach drain hose from upper back mount.
Fill: Run fill line clear of all mechanisms and electrical connections. It is not recommended to use a metal braided fill hose.
Interior: Lime or mineral deposits can be cleaned with General Electric dishwasher lime and mineral cleaner.
Door: When removing door be cautious of wire length to door switch. Too much pull on the door switch wire can cause door switch to brake in half or come free of holding bracket.
26
To clean pump:
•
You can reach the drain pump from inside the machine. First remove the coarse strainer and the fine strainer.
Then you can remove a small cover in the bottom of the hole. There you can reach the pump impeller and remove the dirt. Replace the fine filter.
Trouble shooting
•
There is water left in the dishwasher:
If the dishwasher is taking in too much water, the drain pump starts automatically. If the water, in spite of this, is not drained off, it might depend on any of the following reasons:
1). The filter is clogged.
2). The pump is blocked. Pieces of bone or other foreign particles in the drain pump.
3). The drain hose is clogged (blocked)
Check to make sure that there are not obstacles in the hose where it connects to the water. Foreign particles can get lodged in the entrance of the connection line (see illustration). Also check to make sure that the cone-shaped connection line has been cut to an inner diameter of at least ¾”.
The drain hose is kinked:
Check to make sure that there are no kinks in the drain hose.
Air gap:
If the machine is equipped with an air gap, be sure the air gap is not blocked or plugged.
1) Keep air gap clean.
2) Check air gap first if the drain becomes blocked and there is water left in the dishwasher.
The dishwasher does not start , check the following:
1) The door is not completely closed.
2) The POWER / HEAT knob is in the “off” position.
27
3) The CYCLE SELECTION knob is in the “off” position.
4) A fuse is blown or a breaker is open, check the electrical box.
5) The safety overflow float / switch in the base pan under the tank has turned off all power to the dishwasher. This means that there is a leak and water is accumulating in the base pan
The Pressure
(level)
Switch
closes the
Inlet Water Valve when the dishwasher has taken in too much water.
Low Water
consumption—4.6 gallons in the normal cycle.
Low Detergent
consumption because of low water usage.
VOLTAGE READINGS
POINT NORM DRAIN HEAT WASH DRY
*DRAIN 120 120 120 120 120
PUMP
*BLOWER 120
SOAP
SOL.
0
120
0
120 120 120
3 0 3
TIMER
POINTS
P1
P1B
P2a
(INLET
0
0
0
120
120
120
3
3
3
120 3
9 3
0 3
VALVE)
P3
P4
P4a
P5b
0
120
0
6
120
120
120
6
3 120 3
120 120 120
120 120 120
10 15 7
RESISTANCE READINGS
POOR DISHWASHING RESULTS
Try the following remedies. Poor results may not always be caused by the dishwasher. Read through the chart below before contacting your servicer.
Spotting and
filming
Hard water Use the maximum recommended amount (3 tablespoons) of dishwasher detergent. You may need a home water softener.
To remove hard water spots, try a vinegar rinse.
•
•
•
•
•
Wash and rinse load as usual.
Remove all metal items from dishwasher.
Do not add detergent.
Pour two cups of vinegar into a bowl and set it on the bottom rack of the dishwasher.
Run the dishes through and entire wash program. If the vinegar rinse doesn’t work, repeat the above process substituting 1/4 cup citric acid crystals (available at most drug stores) for the vinegar.
Wiping with a damp cloth should remove spots from metal items. For sterling and silver plated flatware, rub with a towel, or use a good cream silver polish.
Filter system
No rinse aid
Too little water
Check filter system to be sure it is clean and properly installed.
Does the rinse aid dispenser need to be filled? (Note: use only in hard water areas.)
Dishwasher detergent
Check that the water valve is fully open. Make sure that the water pressure is between 15 and 176 PSI.
Check filter in the inlet valve.
Use only the correct amount of dishwasher detergent according to the hardness of the water and the wash program you have selected. Do not use old or caked detergent. Store dishwasher detergent in a dry place and in a closed container.
Change the dishwasher detergent if the result is still unsatisfactory.
Items not loaded
Properly
Check that you are loading the items according to the instruction in
Your guide.
Do not overload. Make sure water can reach all soiled surfaces.
Wash arms rotation Check that both wash arms can rotate freely and that items do not poorly or stand still obstruct the movement of the wash arms. Lift the arms and make sure that no grains of dirt, etc retard the rotation of the wash arms. If necessary, clear the obstruction, refit the arms and check that they rotate.
Make sure that the holes in the wash arms are not blocked by dirt, if necessary, clear the holes with a pointed object.
Strainer blocked
Excessive foam in machine
Check the strainer. Clear if necessary.
Use only dishwasher detergent.
Flatware incorrectly Pay particular attention to spoons so that they do not nest in each other and Prevent water penetration.
29
Problem
Small particles
deposited on
items
POOR DISHWASHING RESULTS (Con’t)
Possible Cause
Wash arm or arms Be sure a utensil or handle has not prevented their turning. not rotating freely
Suggested Remedy
Detergent Use only fresh detergent, store in a tightly closed container in a cool dry place. Fill dispenser only when ready to start the dishwasher. Use the recommended amount of detergent, especially with hard water.
Marks and
discoloration pressure of dishes loading
Copper with sterling silver
Tea or coffee acid)
Check that the water valve is fully open.Make sure that the water pressure between 15 and 176 PSI.
Load dishes to prevent water and detergent from being trapped in or items. Water should circulate freely.
Yellow film on sterling silver results when you wash copper utensils in the same load. Silver polish will usually remove this stain.
between
is
Aluminum utensils rubbing
Be sure aluminum utensils, especially light weight foil type pans, do not
touch against dishes. items during washing To remove spots, use a non-abrasive cleaner.
Yellow or brown Iron or manganese
Temporary solution: Pour 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon of citric acid
crystals
Marks in water instead of the pre-wash detergent directly on the inside of the door. Follow this pre-wash with a full detergent wash. Use the pots / pans or normal wash cycle.
Permanent solution: Install an iron removal system in the water supply.
Tea or coffee can stain cups. Remove stains by hand, using a solution of
½cup bleach and 3 cups warm water. (Do not use on sterling silver or silver plate.)
Discoloration of Allowing salty or Rinse flatware that is to stand several hours before washing.
stainless steel
silver plate or acidic foods to remain on flatware
Stainless steel Do not put stainless steel and silver flatware in the same silverware basket compartment. Direct contact between these metals can cause permanent damage to silver.
Clean stained items with silver polish.
Do not use abrasives on stainless steel or silver
Distortion of
plastics
Plastic item has
Plastics vary in their ability to tolerate heat. Check washing instructions for rack away from the heating element.
all low heat tolerance plastic items to be sure they are dishwasher safe. If they are, place in top
Marks on mela- Porous material
mine and plastics
Use a special cleaner for plastic.
Do not use bleach or scouring powder on these items.
30
Problem
Cloudy film on
POOR DISHWASHING RESULTS (Con’t)
Possible Cause
glassware-etching
especially in soft
of water
Suggested Remedy
Too much detergent
If vinegar or citric acid rinse doesn’t remove film, the cloudiness is
“etching”. This is permanent. To prevent etching , use the least amount
(1 teaspoon) of recommended dishwasher detergent if you have soft water.
Use a good quality dishwasher detergent and rinse aid
. Do not overload the machine. Water should circulate freely to assure adequate rinsing and draining.
Use drying without heat.
Rinse aid used Use rinse aid in hard water areas only.
Dishes not dry Non-heated drying
Be sure to select heated drying for best results. Allow more drying time using non-heated drying.
when
No rinse aid
Improper loading or unloading
Fill rinse aid dispenser. Rinse aid helps dishes to dry faster. (Note: Used in hard water areas).
only
Certain plastics materials are difficult to dry. Plastics may need towel drying.
Do not overload items. Be sure all surfaces drain well. Load items with concave bases so as much water as possible can run off. Unload the bottom rack first. Water from dishes in the top rack may be spilling into the bottom rack. interrupted
If the door is opened during the heated dry cycle, the heating element
comes back on after the door is reclosed. If the dishwasher door is opened immediately after the dry cycle is completed and then shut again, the vent door is closed, trapping warm humid air. It is best then to leave door open slightly.
Compartment cover blocked
The cover may not be opening because of improperly loaded items
. Move dishes that may be blocking it. in detergent
compartment
(detergent
compartment
Chipping or
breaking of
glassware
Old detergent
Improper loading
If detergent is hard or caked in the box, throw it away. Use only fresh detergent. Add detergent to dishwasher right before starting it.
Do not overload. Load between prongs, not over them. Glasses loaded prongs will not be supported and may chip or break. Make sure
over
glassware is secure and can’t come loose. Always use top rack for delicate items.
Use the light/china cycle.
Utensils may not be secure or something small may have dropped from
Water may cause utensils to rattle. Make sure everything is placed in the dishwasher.
the
securely
31
Problem Possible
Water left in Dishwashing
POOR DISHWASHING RESULTS (Con’t)
Remedy
Allow dishwasher to complete cycle. cycle not complete
bottom of
dishwasher
near
Dishwasher
will
Some is normal
Air gap
Drain hose
Water left in removable coarse strainer is normal.
Be sure air gap is not blocked or plugged.
Check for kink in drain hose.
Dishwasher
will not start
Filter system
Clogged drain pump
Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker
Door not com-
Control on “OFF”
Dishwasher
will
Controls
Water supply
Water backs up Food waste
in disposer and trap
Be sure there is no blockage in filter system. Remove, clean and place back in dishwasher before starting dishwasher.
Clean drain pump.
Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. Remove any other appliance from the circuit.
Close tightly until you hear a click.
Turn the POWER/HEAT knob to the appropriate setting.
Check that dishwasher is on.
Be sure water is available and turned on.
Check disposer and trap at sink for blockage or food particles.
dishwasher
drains
32
•
•
•
OUTDOOR GAS GRILL
NOTE:
Check the thermal – couple capillary tube connection at the I/R safety valve, make sure it is tight before condemning the thermal – couple.
•
Remove the back panel to gain access to the
Infrared burner.
Remove the Smoker Tray (A).
Remove the Burner Valve Knobs (B).
Remove the Control Panel (D). (The top bezel screws secure the control panel to the manifold support bracket.
•
•
Remove the Landing Ledge (E).
Remove the Thermal Couple capillary tube
(F) from the Infrared Burner Valve.
•
Remove the Thermal Couple (G) from the bracket at the Infrared Burner and feed the capillary tube down and through the burner box.
33
CAST IRON “H” BURNER REMOVAL
•
Remove the Porcelain Grill Grates
•
Remove the Flavor Generator Plates.
•
Do not remove the six (6) screws that hold the Drip Guard to the “H” Burner.
•
Insert screw driver and remove the screw marked “B”.
•
Lift rear of burner up and pull to the rear to disengage the orifice.
•
Remove the Burner
With the burner removed you can clear the ports, remove any debris from inside the burner, and check for spider webs or other inhabitants.
*
Place these pieces on a protective pad to protect the customers property. These pieces are heavy with protruding edges.
34
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE ----
OUTDOOR GAS GRILLE---
PROBLEM
1. Grill won’t light when the
CORRECTION
the rotary ignitor is turned
1B.
1A. Remove the grill rack and the flavor generator plates. Watch the ignitor tip. You should see a spark jump from the tip of the ignitor when the knob is turned.
Plugged orifice at the ignitor.
1A.
Check spark lead from the sparker to the electrode.
2A Check the other burners,
do they light?
3A Make sure the ignitor is clean and free from debris
1B. Use stiff metal wire to
clear ports.
2. Burner flame is yellow or
orange and a gas odor is
Present.
3. Low heat with knob on
2A. Check the burner inlet for obstructions.
2B. Check the air shutter for proper adjustment.
3A. Bent or kinked fuel hose.
2A. Clean the gas inlet.
2B.
See the install. instruction
for burner adjustments.
3A.
Straighten or replace
fuel
“HIGH”
4. Low heat on one burner
3B. Low
4A. Dirty or plugged orifice. ports. flame.
4C. Dirty or plugged burner
hose.
3B.
Check and refill L.P. tank.
Check the manual shut-off valve, is it fully open?
Check check- valve (turn all burners off, turn the
manual shut-off vale to off on the gas supply. Dis- connect the quick discon-
nector to relieve the
pressure. Reconnect and
turn on the gas supply.
4A. Check and clean orifice.
4B.
4C.
Check air / gas adjustment
Remove burner and clean
ports.
5. Optional rotisserie will
not light with the ignitor
but can be lighted with match.
6. Optional rotisserie lights,
but will not hold flame
once button is released.
5A. No spark at the thermo-
Couple.
6A. Kinked or bent thermo- couple (out of the flame)
6B. Safety valve button not being held long enough.
5A. Check sparker
6A. Readjust to lay flat against burner.
6B. Hold button in until burner remains lit.
35
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
----
OUTDOOR GAS GRILLE----
USE AND CARE ( CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE )
Spider and insect
Spiders and insects can nest in the burners of this or any other grill,
warning.
and cause the gas to flow from the front of the burner. This is a very dangerous condition which can cause a fire to occur behind the valve panel, thereby damaging the grill and making it unsafe to operate.
When to look for spiders:
You should inspect the burners at least once a year or immediately if any of the following conditions occur.
1) The smell of gas along with the burner flames appearing yellow.
2) The grill does not reach the proper temperatures.
3) The grill heats unevenly.
4) The burner makes a popping noise.
Porcelain Grates and Burners:
The porcelain grill grates may be cleaned immediately
after cooking is complete and before turning off the flame. Wearing a barbecue mitt to protect
your hand from heat, use a soft bristle barbecue brush to scrub the porcelain burner grid. Dip
the brush frequently in a bowl of water. Steam is created as the water contacts the hot grate.
The steam assists the cleaning process by softening the food particles. For thorough cleaning
of the grates, allow grates to cool, then soak 15 to 30 minutes in a hot water and detergent
solution. After soaking, scrub with a Teflon scouring pad.
DO NOT USE
a steel wool pad,
abrasive cleaners or metal. brush. They could damage the porcelain finish.
Before removing, ensure the gas supply is off and the knobs are in the “off” position.
To disassemble for thorough cleaning, remove parts after they have cooled in the following
order:
•
Porcelain grill grates
•
Flavor generator plates
•
Drip guards
•
Cast iron burners
36
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE -------------
OUTDOOR GAS GRILLE----------------
USE AND CARE (CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE)
Clean greasy parts with a household grease solvent such as household ammonia and water. Use a flashlight to inspect the burner inlet to ensure it is not blocked. If obstructions can be seen, use a metal wire coat hanger that has been straightened out.
Shake out any debris through the air shutter.
Drip Tray
The drip tray should be removed and cleaned after each use. Allow the drippings in the drip tray to cool completely before removing the drip tray. To remove the drip tray, pull until it stops, slightly lift up on the tray to release it from the rollers inside the burner box and pull the rest of the way out. To replace after cleaning, slide back of tray into rollers, lift slightly and push into rollers. Both sides must be placed in the rollers at the same time.
Infrared Rotisserie Burner
Special care is not required for the infrared rotisserie burner. It is designed as a selfcontained unit. Do not attempt to clean it. Its own operation burns off any impurities which condense on it..
Stainless Steel
All stainless steel parts should be wiped
regularly with hot soapy water at the end of each cooling period. Use a liquid cleaner designed for that material when soapy water will not do the job.
Do not
use steel wool, abrasive cloths, cleaners, or powders. If necessary to scrape stainless steel to remove encrusted materials, soak the area with hot towels to loosen the material, then use a w ooden or nylon spatula or scraper.
Do not use
a knife, spatula or any other metal tool to scrape stainless steel.
Do not permit citrus or tomato juice to remain on stainless steel surface, as citric acid will permanently discolor stainless steel. Wipe away any spill immediately.
Brass Parts
C
co
cl o
AUTION:
All brass special ordered parts are ated with an epoxy coating.
Do not use brass
re
eaners or abrasive cleaners on the brass ptional parts.
All brass parts should be wiped gularly with hot soapy water. When hot soapy w h ater will not do the job, use every day ousehold cleaners that are not abrasive.
CONDITION
Motor runs but
ram inoperative
VIKING COMPACTOR ** SERVICE TIPS **
POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY
1. Motor pulley, motor sprocket,
drive sprocket or drive pulley
is inoperative
1.1 Replace pin(s)
1.2 Replace drive belt
1.3 Replace drive chain
1.4 Replace pulleys or sprockets
Ram stuck in “down”
position
1. Malfunction of directional switch.
Ram operates continuously 1. Malfunction of ram switch
1.1 Replace directional switch
1.1 Adjust or replace ram switch
2. Misalignment of start
Switch
2.1 Realign start switch button. button
Drawer will not close 1. Drawer latch mechanism 1.1 Adjust latch rod for proper align- ment with drawer track hooks.
2.1 Clean and loosen or replace misaligned.
2. Drawer track malfunction
3. Drawer latch rod will not slide over cam on drawer slide hooks.
2.2 Replace drawer spring.
3.1 Apply a small amount of lubri-
cant
Hook cam surface to allow drawer
Latch to slide on cam surfaces.
Drawer will not open 1. Drawer kickboard drags on floor. 1.1 Adjust leveling legs.
1.2 Replace drawer springs.
2. Malfunction of directional switch malfunctions.
4. Trash jamming drawer.
2.1 See “Ram stuck in down” position. mechanism
4.1 Remove trash
Malfunctioning as
6. Track spring inoperative. 6.1
Compactor will not operate 1. No electric power to compactor
2. Drawer not completely closed
Motor will not operate
3. Key in locked position.
1. Improper electrical connections.
2. Motor inoperative.
1.1 Make sure compactor is “plugged in”.
1.2 Check fuse or circuit breaker.
2.1 Close drawer.
3.1 Turn key to unlock.
1.1 Check and correct.
2.1 Replace motor.
Odor 1. Fully absorbed charcoal air filter.
2.
1.1 See “Use and Care Guide”.
Inoperative
Clearance between drawer 1. Improper drawer and /or litter
and litter bin door uneven bin alignment.
1.1 Align as needed.
38
VIKING COMPACTOR WIRING DIAGRAMS
39
VGDO271
TESTING PROCEDURES
Service Information
Electronic Range Control (ERC) operates in conjunction with a transformer/relay board 1, relay board 2, and oven temperature sensor(s) to control all bake, broil, and self-clean functions.
The
ERC
is connected to a mylar control panel incorporating minute timer, clock, stop time, oven light, cancel, bake, bake time, broil, and clean. Slew pads are used to set times and temperatures.
The
mylar
control panel provides direct input to the
ERC
to control all functions.
The
ERC
display consists of two digital readouts which displays all timing functions, and all temperature functions.
The
transformer/relay
board for upper oven consists of oven light, bake, broil, door lock, and double line break relays controlled by the ERC, and a step down transformer with two secondary windings which convert 120 VAC input to filament voltage (3.2--4.2 VAC) to power the
ERC display.
The
relay board
for lower oven consists of bake, broil, door lock, and double line break relays controlled by the ERC.
Oven temperature
sensor 1
is mounted in the upper oven cavity and connected to the J4 connector on the rear of the ERC. Oven temperature sensor 2 is mounted in the lower oven cavity and connected to the J6 connector on the rear of the ERC. As the oven temperature increased, the sensor resistance also increases.
The ERC converts this resistance to a corresponding temperature readout and cycles the relay(s) to maintain the desired temperature setting.
The
ERC
is also capable of sensing certain failure conditions which can occur in the oven temperature sensor(s), the self clean latch switch(es) the adaptor board or the ERC itself. If the ERC senses a failure, power will be removed from the relays, an alarm will sound and a failure code will be displayed.
Each major component of the ERC system is serviced as a separate part. However, each component and related wire harness must be tested prior to replacing an individual component.
Quick Test Procedure
“Quick Test” Mode for Electronic Range Control
Follow procedure to use the quick test mode.
Entries must be made within 32 seconds of each other or the control will exit the quick test mode.
The quick test mode cannot be reactivated until power is disconnected from oven, and must be accessed with in 5 minutes of powering up.
NOTE:
To enter Quick Test mode, this
must
be the first key pad entered after power is applied.
1. Apply power to oven
press and hold
BAKE
TIME (upper oven) pad for 5 seconds.
2. Display will read the following:
Pad
CLEAN
BAKE
Response
Double Line Break (DLB)
on
DLB and Bake on
BROIL DLB and Broil on
STOP TIME Panel light and beeper on
BAKE
Displays manufacturer code and
CLOCK sensor readings “000” = open semsor dashes
All display segmentsilluminated
OVEN LIGHT Oven light on
CANCEL
SLEW
Sequences through display segments
ERC Warnings and Failure Codes
The ERC is capable of detecting certain failures within the ERC, along with oven temperature sensor and self clean door latch switch.
The warning and failure codes which may appear on the display:
ERC will flash “door”, if one full door lock cycle has not been completed within 60 seconds of energizing the door lock relay.
DIGIT FAILURE DISPLAY
malfunction
F2
F3
F4
F7 oven over temperature -
Check sensor wiring, sensor, and temperature limiter
open sensor or sensor circuit -
Check sensor resistance and wiring
shorted sensor or sensor circuit -
Check sensor resistance and wiring
shorted input key -
verify control panel
F9
FF
to p.c. board connection, test control panel continuity, replace control panel
failure of door lock switch sensing with door unlocked-
Check latch switch, door motor, check plunger switch, and wiring.
failure of door lock switch sensing with door locked -
Check latch switch, door motor, check plunger switch, and wiring
40
TESTING PROCEDURES
Temperature Calibration Offset
The ERC incorporates
±
35
°
F. calibration offset capabilities for the oven. This adjustment will not effect the cleaning cycle temperature and will remain in memory if power is interrupted. Follow the procedures as listed to calibrate oven.
1. Press BAKE pad.
2. Press
than
°
F. shows in display.
3. Immediately press and hold BAKE pad until “00” appears in display, approximately 5 seconds
4. To decrease oven temperature (for cooler oven), press – until negative numbers appear. Oven can be adjusted from –05
°
to -35
°
F. lower. To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5
°
each time.
5. To increase oven temperature (for warmer oven) press + until positive numbers appear. Oven can be set from 05
°
to 35
°
F higher. To avoid over adjusting oven, move temperature 05
°
each time.
6. Press OFF/CANCEL pad. Temperature adjustment will be retained even through a power failure.
Function Switch Connection Check Procedure
The Quick-Test mode can be used to verify relay operation on the transformer/relay board. If the relay engages (clicks) during Quick-Test mode it is generally operative.
Transformer/Relay Board 1
The relay for door lock, oven light, bake, and broil, are controlled by approximately 24 VAC signal from the
ERC. Input voltage is 102-132 VAC.
Testing of the relays is with voltage applied to oven
after
attaching voltmeter leads to appropriate terminals.
Double Line Break –K6
Drive voltage (24 VAC) indicated at J1 connector pin
1 and 3.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E1 connector on relay board.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch bake, broil or convection.
5. If 24 VAC is indicated, the double line break relay is closing. Otherwise, replace the transformer/relay board.
Bake Relay –K4
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector pins 3 and 5.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay board.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E11 (BK) connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch the bake pad.
5. If 24 VAC is indicated, bake relay is opening.
Broil Relay –K5
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector pins 3 and 6.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay module.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E12 (BR) connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch broil pad.
5. If 24 VAC is indicated broil is operating.
Oven Light Relay –K10
Drive voltage at J1 connector pins 1 and 4.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (neutral) connector on relay module.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E17 connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch oven light pad.
5. If 120 VAC is indicated, oven light relay is operating.
Door Lock Relay –K3
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector pins 1 and 9.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (neutral) connector on relay module.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E8 connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and program cleaning cycle operation.
5. Two indications will be present during this test. a. 120 VAC will be present when the lock assembly is being engaged. b. 0 VAC is indicated when the door is locked and cleaning is operational.
Display (Filament) Voltage
1. Turn power on, turn meter to VAC scale.
2. Touch meter lead to J1-1 terminal.
3. Touch meter lead to J1-14 terminal.
4. Meter should indicate 3.VAC.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Relay Board 2
The relays for oven light, bake, broil, convection element, convection fan and double line break are controlled by approximately 24 volts from
ERC. Input voltage is 102-132 VAC.
Testing of the relays is with voltage applied to oven
after
attaching voltmeter leads to appropriate terminals.
NOTE:
If bake, broil, or convection do not work, the first test would be the relay for double line break.
Bake Relay –K2
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at
J1 connector pins 4 and 5.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to gray wire connection on double line break relay.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (BA) connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch the bake pad.
5. If 24 VAC is indicated bake relay is operating.
Broil Relay --K3
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at
J1 connector pins 3 and 5.
1. Turn off power to oven. voltmeter double line break relay. voltmeter on relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch broil pad.
5. If 24 VAC is indicated broil relay is operating.
Double Lock Relay –K4
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at
J1 connection pins 1 and 7.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (neutral) connection on transformer/relay board 1.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E2 connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and program cleaning cycle operation.
5. Two indications will be present during this test.
•
120 VAC will be present during the lock assembly is being engaged.
•
0 VAC is indicated when the door is locked and cleaning cycle is operational.
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
Illustration Components Test Procedures Results
Oven light socket Test continuity receptacle Indicates terminals. screwed
Measure voltage at oven light 120VAC, see wiring diagram for terminal identification. If no voltage is present at oven light check wiring.
Hinge
Blower motor
Carefully open the hinge fully, &
Insert a wooden dowel or screw-
Driver bit into opening. Remove top and bottom screws securing hinge. Slide hinge top toward rear of unit and guide hinge out through frame opening or storage drawer.
Verify supply voltage.
Disconnect and check continuity to motor at the terminals, and verify terminals are not shorted to chassis.
Do not place hands in hinge area when oven door is removed.
Hinge can snap closed and pinch hands or fingers.
120 VAC
Continuity. temperature.
Door lock switch Switch connections in following Normally open.
Positions:
Unlocked
Com-NO=Open, Com-NC=Closed
Locked
Com-NO=Closed,
Sail switch Switch connections in following Normally open. position:
Not
Engaged
Com-NO=Open, Com-NC=Closed
Com-NO=Closed,
Controls Verify proper operation.
Bake Burner
31833001 Control limit
042056 Fan switch 1-2 (NO)
1-3 (NC)
Verify gas is supplied.
Orifice adjusted for Natural or
LP. Check for obstructions or
Contamination in ports
Normally open
Opens at 145
°
F, Closes at 185
°
F
Opens at 120
°
F, Closes at 150
°
F
Opens at 150
°
F, Closes at 120
°
F
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
Illustration Components Test Procedures
Broil Burner Verify gas is supplied
Proper orifice installed for
Natural or LP.
Check for damage to screen.
Pressure regulator Verify gas pressure (WPC)
If on LP service verify gas
Results
Replace if punctured or torn
5” Natural gas
10” LP/Propane
Norton Ignitor Test for voltage at terminals. 120 VAC
Teat for the amount of amperage 3.2 – 3.6 Amps. in the circuit (Ignitor may glow but not have sufficient amperage
Gas valve Disconnect wiring to valve
Measure resistance on bake circuit.
Measure resistance on broil circuit.
Continuity
Continuity
Shut off valve Check to verify gas supply is
44
ERC control
ERC control
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
ERC mylar touch system
Illustration
See Illustrations
above
Component Test Procedure
Mylar touch system
F1 - Control malfunction.
F2 - Oven over temperature.
F7 - Shorted input key.
Results
F3 - Open sensor or sensor circuit
F4 - Shorted sensor or sensor circuit
Test mylar touch pad.
Check sensor wiring, sensor, and temperature limiter.
Check sensor resistance and wiring.
Check sensor resistance and wiring.
Verify mylar switch connections, replace mylar touch switch.
Check latch switch. F9 - Door lock or door lock circuitry malfunction (door unlocked)
FF - Door lock or door lock circuitry malfunction (door locked)
Door - Lock status is not sensed within
90 seconds of energizing door lock relay.
Check latch switch
Verify operation of door latch switches.
`
ERC control Oven temperature adjustment
Press
Bake
Press + slew pad until an oven temperature greater than 500° shows on display.
While increasing or decreasing oven temperature, this does not affect self- cleaning temperature.
Immediately press and hold
BAKE
until
“00" appears in display, approximately
5 seconds.
To decrease oven temperature (for a cooler oven), press - slew pad until negative numbers appear. Oven can be adjusted from -5° to -35° lower.
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
To increase oven temperature (for warmer oven), press + slew pad until positive numbers appear. Oven can be adjusted 5° to 35° higher. To avoid overadjusting oven move
temperature 5° each time.
Press
OFF / CANCEL.
Temperature adjustment will be retained even though power failure.
Twelve hour off
Control will automatically cancel any baking operation and remove all relay drives 12 hours after the last pad touch.
Child lock out This is a safety feature that can be used to prevent children from accidentally programming the oven. If disables the electronic oven control. Press and hold
BAKE
and
BAKE TIME
for approximately
5 seconds. “Off” will display where the temperature normally appears.
To reactivate the control, press and hold
BAKE
and
BAKE TIME
for 5 seconds.
Child lockout features must be reset after failure.
45
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
Illustration Component Results
ERC Controlled Quick test mode Press and hold
Bake Time
pad for
5 seconds within the first 5 minutes of power up. (This must be the first pad touched
.) Pressing each pad will force a response from control, releasing the pad ends the response.
Entries on control pad must be within 32 seconds of each other or control will exit mode. Mode can
See Quick Test Mode Display
Clean ---
Bake --
Broil --
Stop Time-
Bake Time
Timer--
Clock -
Double line break (DLB) on
DLB and Bake on
DLB and Broil on
Panel light and beeper on
-
Displays checks and sensor readings
Displays dashes
Display on full
Oven Light- Oven light on
Slew pads-
Sequences thru display segments
Cancel- Exits quick test mode
below.
Relay Board Listen for relay to actuate.
Verify input and output power
If relay doe not actuate, verify power to relay board (120 VAC)
Relay Board
Quick Test Mode Displays:
Upper Oven
Listen for relay to actuate.
Verify input and output power
Lower Oven
If relay does not actuate, verify power to relay board (120 VAC)
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
47
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
Continuity is indicated as 100 and below. Each pad must be pressed to perform the following test
.
Relay Drive Requirements
Relay drive requirements are defined as a percentage of on time based on a 60 second cycle.
Clean Stage 1 - 100% broil, 0% bake, for 30 minutes
Stage 2 - 0% broil, 100% bake
TESTING PROCEDURES
--VEDO273 Ele. OVEN
Service Information
The ERC operates in conjunction with a transformer/ relay board 1, relay board 2, and oven temperature sensor(s) to control all bake, broil, convection and self clean functions.
The ERC
is connected to a mylar control to control minute timer, clock, stop time, oven light, cancel, bake, bake time, broil, and clean.
Slew pads are used to set times and temperatures.
The mylar control panel provides input to the
ERC
to control all functions.
The ERC
display consists of two digital readouts which displays all timing functions, and all temperature functions.
The transformer/relay board for upper oven consists of convection fan, oven light, convection element, bake, broil, door lock, and double line break relays controlled by the
ERC
, and a step down transformer with two secondary windings which convert 120 VAC input to filament voltage to power the
ERC
display.
The relay board for lower oven consists of bake, broil, door lock, and double line break relays controlled by the
ERC
.
Oven temperature sensor 1 is mounted in the upper oven cavity and connected to the J4 connector on the rear of the
ERC.
Oven temperature sensor 2 is mounted in the lower oven cavity and connected to the J6 connector on the rear of the
ERC.
As the oven temperature increases the sensor resistance also increases. The
ERC
converts this resistance to a corresponding temperature readout and cycles the relay(s) to maintain the desired temperature setting.
The ERC
is also capable of sensing certain failure conditions which can occur in the oven temperature sensor(s), the self clean latch switch(s) the adaptor board or the
ERC
itself. If the
ERC
senses a failure, power will be removed from the relays, an alarm will sound and a failure code will be displayed.
Each major component of the
Electronic Range
Control
is serviced as a separate part. However, each component and related wire harness must be tested prior to replacing an individual component.
Quick Test Procedure
“Quick Test” Mode for Electronic Range Control
Follow procedure below to use the quick test mode. Entries must be made within 32 seconds of each other or the control will exit the quick test mode. The quick test mode cannot be reactivated until power is disconnected from oven, and must be accessed within 5 minutes of powering up.
NOTE:
To enter Quick Test Mode, this
must
be
the
1. first key pad entered after power is
applied.
Apply power to oven
press and hold
BAKETIME
(Upper Oven) pad for 5 seconds.
2. Display will read the following:
Pad Response
CLEAN Double Line Break (DLB) on
BAKE DLB and Bake on
CONV. BAKE DLB, Bake and Conv Fan on
CONVECTIONDLB
,
Conv, Element and Fan on
BROIL DLB and Broil on
CONV. BROIL DLB
TIME Beeper
BAKE
TIMER
,
Broil and Conv. Fan
on on and sensor readings “000"=open sensor
Displays dashes
CLOCK
All display segments illuminated
OVEN LIGHT Oven light on
CANCEL Exit Quick Test
SLEW
Sequences through display segments
ERC Warning and Failure Codes
The Electronic Range Control is capable of detecting certain failures within the
ERC,
along with oven temperature sensor and self clean door latch switch. The warnings and failure codes which may appear on the display:
If “
d o o r
” flashes in display, switch positions can only be displayed in Quick Test mode be touching clean pad, as shown below:
Unlock
2.
Digit Failure Display
F1 Control malfunction - Replace ERC
F2
Oven over temperature - Check sensor wiring,
F3
Open sensor or sensor circuit - Check sensor
F4 Shorted sensor or sensor circuit - Check sensor resistance and wiring.
F7 Shorted input key - Verify control panel to
P.C. board connection, test control panel continuity - Replace Control Panel.
F9 Failure of door lock switch sensing with door locked- Check latch switch, door
FF motor, check plunger switch, and wiring.
Failure of door lock switch sensing with door unlocked - Check latch switch, door motor, check plunger switch, and wiring.
49
TESTING PROCEDURES
Temperature Calibration Offset
The
ERC
incorporates ± 35°F calibration offset capabilities for the oven. This adjustment will not effect the cleaning cycle temperature and will remain in memory if power is interrupted. Follow the procedures as listed to calibrate oven.
1. Press BAKE pad.
2. Press + until an oven temperature greater than
500°F shows in display.
3. Immediately press and hold BAKE pad until “00"
appears in display, approximately 5 seconds.
4. To decrease oven temperature (for cooler oven),
press - until negative numbers appear. Oven can be adjusted from -05° to -35° lower. To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
5. To increase oven temperature (for a warmer oven) press + until positive number appears. Oven can be set from 05° to 35° higher.. To avoid over adjusting oven, move temperature 5° each time.
6. Press OFF CANCEL pad. Temperature
adjustment
will be retained even through a power failure.
Function Switch Connection Check Procedure
The Quick Test mode can be used to verify relay operation on the transformer/relay board. If the relay engages (clicks) during Quick Test mode, it is generally operative.
Transformer/Relay Board 1
The relays for oven light, bake, broil, convection element, convection fan and double line break are controlled by approximately 24VDC signal from the
ERC.
Input voltage is 102 - 132 VAC.
Testing of relays is with voltage applied to oven
after
attaching voltmeter leads to appropriate terminals.
NOTE:
If bake, broil, or convection do not work, the
first test would be the relay for double line break.
Double Line Break --K6
Drive voltage (24VDC±) indicated at J1 connector pins 1 and 3.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2.
Attach voltmeter lead to E1 connector on relay board
.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay
module.
4. Turn on power and touch bake, broil, or convection.
50
5. If 120VAC is indicated, the double line break relay is closing. Otherwise, replace the transformer/relay board.
Bake Relay -- K4
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 3 and 5.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay
board.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E11 (BK) connector on module.
4. Turn on power and touch the bake pad.
5. If 240 VAC is indicated bake relay is operating.
Broil Relay -- K5
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 3 and 6.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay
board.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E12 (BR) connection on
`relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch broil pad.
5. If 240 VAC is indicated broil relay is operating.
Convection Element Relay --K2
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector Pin 3 and 11.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay
board.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E6 (CV EL) connector on relay module.
4. Turn on power and touch convection pad.
5. If 240 VAC is indicated convection element relay is operating.
Convection Fan Relay --K1
Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 1 and 7.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (neutral) connector on board.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E4 (CVF) connector on module.
4. Turn on power and touch convection pad.
5. If 120 VAC is indicated convection fan relay is
operating.
TESTING PROCECURES
Oven Light Relay -- K10
Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 1 and 4.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (neutral) connector on
relay
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E17 connector on relay
module.
4. Turn on power and touch oven light pad.
4. If 120 VAC is indicated, oven light relay is
operating.
Door Lock Relay --K3
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 1 and 9.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (neutral) connector on
relay
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E8 connector on relay
module.
4. Turn on power and program cleaning cycle
operation.
5. Two indications will be present during this test. a. 120 VAC will be present when the lock
assembly is being engaged.
b. 0 VAC is indicated when the door is locked and cleaning cycle is operational.
Display (Filament) Voltage
1. Turn on power, turn meter to VAC scale.
2. Touch meter lead to J1-1 terminal.
3. Touch meter lead to J1-14 terminal.
4. Meter should indicate 3.2VAC.
Relay Board 2
The relays for oven light, bake, broil, convection element, convection fan and double line break are controlled be approximately 24VDC signal from the
ERC
. Input voltage is 102 - 132 VAC.
NOTE:
If bake, broil, or convection do not work, the first test would be the relay for double line break.
Double Line Break -- K1
Drive voltage (24VDC±) indicated at J1 connector
Pins 5 and 7.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E1 connector on relay
board.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E18 connector on relay
board.
4. Turn on power and touch bake, broil, or convection.
5. If 240 VAC is indicated the double line break relay is closing. Otherwise, replace the relay board.
Bake Relay --K2
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 4 and 5.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to gray wire connection on
double line break relay.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (BA) connector on module.
4. Turn on power and touch the bake pad.
5. If 240 VAC is indicated bake relay is operating.
Broil Relay -- K3
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 3 and 5.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to gray wire connection on
double line break relay.
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E6 (BR) connector on
relay
4. Turn on power and touch broil pad.
5. If 240 VAC is indicated broil relay is operating.
Door Lock Relay -- K4
Double line break relay okay. Drive voltage at J1 connector Pins 1 and 7.
1. Turn off power to oven.
2. Attach voltmeter lead to E3 (neutral) connector on board
3. Attach voltmeter lead to E2 connector on relay
module.
4. Turn on power and program cleaning cycle
operation.
5. Two indications will be present during this test. a. 120 VAC will be present when the lock
assembly is being engaged.
b. 0 VAC is indicated when the door is locked
and cleaning cycle is operational.
51
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
ERC Mylar touch system -- ERC5800
above.
ERC5800
Control
ERC5800
ERC5800
Control
Illustration Component
See illustrations Mylar touch system
ERC5800
Oven temperature adjustment.
Twelve hour off
Child lock out
Test Procedure
F1 - Control malfunction.
F2 - Oven over temperature.
F3 - Open sensor or sensor circuit
F4 - Shorted sensor or sensor circuit
F7 - Shorted input key.
F9 - Door lock or door lock circuity malfunction (door unlocked)
FF - Door lock or door lock circuity malfunction (door locked)
DOOR -
lock status is not sensed within 90 seconds of energizing door
Press BAKE
Press + slew pad until an oven temperature greater than 500° shows on display. Immediately press and hold BAKE until “00" appears in display, approximately 5 seconds.
To decrease oven temperature (for a cooler oven), press - slew pad until negative numbers appear. Oven can be adjusted from -5 to -35 degrees lower .
To avoid overadjusting oven move temperature -5 degrees each time.
To increase oven temperature (for warmer oven), press + slew pad until positive numbers appear. Oven can be adjusted 5 to 35 degrees higher.
To avoid overadjusting oven move temperature 5 degrees each time.
Press OFF CANCEL. Temperature
Adjustment will be retained even through a power failure.
While increasing or decreasing oven
temperature, this does not affect self-
cleaning temperature.
Control will automatically cancel any baking operation and remove all relay drives 12 hours after the last pad touched.
This is a safety feature that can be used to prevent children from accidentally programming the oven. It disables the electronic oven control. Press and hold
BAKE and BAKE TIME for 5 seconds.
“OFF” will display where the tempera- ture control press and hold BAKE and BAKE
TIME for 5 seconds. Child lockout feat- ure must be reset after a power failure.
Results
Test mylar touch pad.
Check sensor wiring sensor, and
temperature limiter.
Check sensor resistance and wiring.
Check sensor resistance and wiring.
Verify mylar switch connections,
replace mylar touch pad.
Check latch switch.
Check latch switch.
Verify operation of door latch
switches.
52
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
Illustration
ERC4800
Component Test Procedure
Quick test mode Press and hold BAKE TIME
pad for 5 seconds within the
first 5 mintes of power up. (This
must be the first pad touched.)
a response from the control,
releasing the pad ends the
response. Entries on control
pad must be within 32 seconds
of each other or control will
exit mode. Mode can be exited
by pressing OFF CANCEL
Result
Clean
Double line break (DLB) on
Bake DLB and bake on
Conv Bake DLB, bake and conv.fan on.
Convection DLB
, conv. elem.and fan on.
Broil DLB, and broil on
Conv Broil DLB, broil and conv fan on
Stop Time Panel light and beeper on
Bake Time Displays checksum and sensor reading
Timer
Clock
Displays dashes
Display on full
Oven Light Oven light on
Panel Light Panel light and beeper on
Slew Sequences segments. through
Listen for relay to actuate
Verify input and output power
If relay does not actuate, verify power to relay board (120 VAC).
Relay Board
Relay Board Listen for relay to actuate
Verify input and output power
If relay does not actuate, verify power relay board (120 VAC).
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION (BLOCK DIAGRAM
54
COMPONENT TESTING INFORMATION
Continuity is indicated as 100 and below. Each pad must be press to perform the following test.
Element Cycle
Relay drive requirements are as a percentage of on time based on a 60 second cycle.
Bake First rise = 100% bake, 50% broil, then 100% bake, 25% broil.
Broil
Clean
Convection convection fan*.
Convection bake
Convection broil
0% bake, 100% broil
Stage 1 - 100% broil, 0% bake, for 15 minutes.
Stage 2 - 25% broil, 100% bake.
First rise = 100% bake, 50% broil, then 100% convection element and 100%
Same as bake plus 100% convection fan*.
Same as broil plus 100% convection fan*.
*- Convection fan is de-energized when the oven door is opened.
55
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
---Dual Fuel / Self-clean / VDSC - VESO 105 - VED0 205---
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
A. No Bake, No Broil A-1 House Breaker or fuse open A-1 Reset Breaker or replace fuse
No Cycle Light, No
Power to Relay #1.
B. No Bake, No Broil B-1 Timed Bake/Broil function switch B-1 Set Timed Bake/Broil function switch to manual. No Cycle Light
Power to Relay #1 set to Timed function (wall ovens)
(Red – Red/Black) B-2 Power Relay #1 Heater circuit open
terminals #1 & #3) (Power Relay test procedure pg 24)
B-2
Replace Power Relay #1 (Relay
#1 Part# PM010026)
No power to Relay
#1 Heater. B-3 Open contacts Relay #2 (single / upper oven) (wh/red wire to neutral pins #1 and #7). Open contacts relay #5 (lower
B-3
Replace Relay #2 (single / upper
( oven or Relay #5 (lower oven)
Relay #2 & #5 part # PM010029) oven). (blue wire to neutral pins #1
#7)
B-4 Open contact Relay #3 (single / upper oven) (red/blu contact #3 to wh/vio
Contact #9) or open contact Relay #6
(lower oven) (Brown contact #3 to wh/ vio contact #9)
B-4
Replace Relay #3 (upper oven) or Relay
#9 (lower oven) (Relay PN 010029)
B-5 Open Thermostat cycling contacts
#1 and # 2
B-6 Open High Limit Switch (contacts closed)
C. No Bake Functions C-1 Open Bake Element (see pg #21 for
Broil functions
normally and the
Cycle Light is on
C-2 Open selector switch contacts 1 to L2 C-2 Replace Selector Switch
(See pg # 22 for selector Switch contact
B-5 Replace Thermostat
B-6 Replace High Limit Switch
C-1 Replace Bake Element
C-3 Burned Wiring of Terminal connections C-3 Replace or Repair burned wiring and / or
Terminals (spade) connections.
D.
Poor Baking Results
D-1 Low Voltage Supply (240 VAC
Broil functions required).
Normally, Cycle
Light is on. D-2 Restricted Air Flow through the oven
cavity.
D-3 No Top Heat from Broil Element.
Open Selector Switch contacts 3 to E
(see Pg #22 for selector switch checks)
D-4 Check Use and Care for suggested tips.)
D-1 Inform Customer of requirements.
D-2 Clear restriction from oven vent.
D-3 Rep lace Selector Switch
56
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
----Dual Fuel / Self-clean / VDSC - VESO 105 - VEDO 205---
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
E. No Convection
Bake, Bake and
Broil functions
normally, Cycle
E-1 Open Selector Switch contact 6 to I
(see pg #22 for details)
E-2 Open Convection Motor winding
E-1 Replace Selector Switch
E-2 Replace Convection Motor
Light is on.
E-3 Burned wiring or terminal connections E-3 Replace burned wiring or terminal
connectors.
F. No Convection
Cook function,
F-1 Open Convection Cook Element.
(see pg #22)
F-1 Replace Convection Cook Element
Bake and Broil
functions normally, F-2 Open Selector Switch contacts 5 to L2 F-2 Replace Selector Switch
Cycle :Light is on. (see pg #22)
G. Convection Cook G-1 Open winding in Convection Fan
Heats, No Air motor.
Circulation
H. No Mini-Broil
function, Bake
G-2 Frozen Motor Shaft
G-3 Open Selector Switch contacts I to 6
(see pg #22)
G-1 Replace Fan Motor
G-2 Replace Fan Motor
G-3 Replace Selector Switch
H-1 Open Selector Switch contacts 3 to L2 H-1 Replace Selector Switch
(see pg #22)
functions normally,
Cycle Light is on
I. No Maxi-Broil
function, Bake
functions normally,
Cycle Light is on,
Mini-Broil funct-
ions normally.
J. No Maxi-Broil
function, No Top
Heat in Bake
function, Cycle
Light is on.
K. No convection
Broil, Bake is
normal, Broil is
normal, Cycle
Light is on. No
Mini-Broil.
H-2 Open Inside Broil Element (see pg #22) H-2 Replace Inside Broil Element
I-1 Open Selector Switch contacts F to 4, I-1 Replace Selector Switch
2 to L2 and/or 3 to L2 (see pg #22)
I-2 Open Outside Broil Element I=2 Replace Outside Broil Element
J-1 Open Selector Switch contacts F to 4, J-1 Replace Selector Switch
2 to L2 and / or 3 to L2 (see pg #22)
J-2 Open Inside and Outside Broil
Elements. (See pg #21)
J-2 Replace open Broil Elements
J-3 Burned wiring or terminal connections J-3 Replace Burned wiring and/or
K-1 Open Convection Motor winding. terminal (spade) connectors.
K-1 Replace Convection Motor.
K-2 Open Selector Switch, contacts 3 to L2 K-2 Replace Selector Switch.
K-3 Open Inside Broil Element (see pg #21) K-3 Replace Inside Broil Element
57
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
---Dual Fuel / Self-clean / VDSC - VES0 105 - VEDO 205---
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
L. No Self-clean, L-1 Open Selector Switch contacts J to 6 L-1 Replace Selector Switch
Bake and Broil
functions normally L-2 Open contact Relay #2 (single / upper oven) or Relay #5 (lower oven).
L-2 Replace Relay #2 (single / upper oven) or #5 (lower oven).
Door won’t lock. No
L-3 Open contacts Relay #3 (single / upper L-3 Replace Relay #3 (single / upper oven)
oven) Relay (lower
Clean Light. No 120
or Relay #6 (lower oven).
(120VAC current path from Sel on PC
Board to Normally closed contacts on
VAC supply to Door
Lock module / timer
(PC board) pg #20,
item 1 Sel.
M. No Self-clean
Bake and Broil
functions
M-1 Open Relay contacts LS1 - 1 and / or
LS2 - M1 on Door Lock Module/Timer
Relay #2 to Selector Switch contacts
J to 6 to Line L1).
M-1 Replace Door Lock Module / Timer
(PC Board)
Door won’t lock- 120
VAC to Door Lock
Module / Timer (PC
Board) is present-No
M-2 Open contacts 1 to 2 on Auto Reset
Thermostat.
M-2 Replace Auto Reset Thermostat.
Movement-
Clean Light is on.
continues to run.
No signal to sensor
(see pg #19) #3 on
PC Board that
M-3 Open Windings in Lock Motor
N. Door Lock Motor N-1NO SW2 Switch (closed by motor movement) on Door Lock Mechanism not closing.
M-3 Replace Lock Motor assembly.
N-1Adjust SW2 Switch position or Replace faulty Switch.
closes T1-T2 and
T3-T4. Clean
Light on.
O. Door Lock Motor
engaged. Signal
To Sensor #3 (see
pg #19). No Heat
O-1 Door Lock Module / Timer Relay
T1-T2 and T3-T4 not closing.
O-1Replace PC Board
Clean Light On.
P. Door Lock Motor
engaged. Cooling
P-1 Door Lock Module / Timer (PC Board) P-1 Replace PC Board
Relay T1-T2 Not closing.
Fan Motor runs
(PC Board T3-T4
closing) No Heat.
P-2 Door Lock Module / Timer (PC Board) P-2 Replace SW3
Relay T1-T2 closing. Check SW3 on
Door Lock Assembly.
58
VOLTAGE READINGS
Measured with door open
T3
T2
4VAC 16VAC
4VAC 16VAC
T1 5VAC 1VAC
MEASURED WITH DOOR LOCKED
T2
T1
T4
T3
80VAC 56VAC
85VAC 56VAC
90VAC 56VAC
93VAC 56VAC
VC--4VDC
SENSOR 3--3VDC
SW2 closed in self clean
(Locked).
SENSOR 4--4VDC
SW1 closed with clean
(lock open).
M1--120VAC
lock motor supply voltage.
(31VAC in locked position)
LS2--70VAC
(unlocked)--
55VAC
(locked)
L1-- 70VAC
(unlocked)--
56VAC
(locked)
L2/M2--16VAC
(unlocked)
--32VAC
(locked)
LS1--107VAC
(locked or unlocked)
SEL--120VAC SUPPLY
CHASSIS
GROUND
P.C. BOARD
GROUND
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD WIRING
FOR RELAYS T4 – T3 – T2 – T1—T6 – T5
60
VOLTAGE and RESISTANCE READINGS
BAKE ELEMENT:
“A” to “B” 21.1 Ohms
“A” to “B” 240VAC during Bake and
Convection Bake.
BROIL ELEMENT:
“A” to “D” ( outside element ) 32.6 Ohms
“A” to “D” 50VAC during Bake and
Convection Bake.
240VAC
240VAC during Convection Broil
240VAC
“B” to “C” ( inside element ) 45.2 Ohms
“B” to “C” 70VAC during Bake and
Convection
Bake.
240VAC during Mini Broil
240VAC during Maxi Broil
240VAC during Convection Broil
240VAC during Self-clean
CONVECTION ELEMENT:
“A” to “B” 26 Ohms
“A” to “B” 240VAC during Convection Cook
61
8 POSITION SELECTOR SWITCH
(With shaft position and internal connections)
62
SELF CLEAN
Selector Switch
closes Heating Element contacts
4-F, 1-N, 2-L2, 3-L2, and Door Lock Module /
Timer contacts J-6 energizing Relay #1.
Thermostat Clean Position
closes Thermostat cycling contacts 1-2 and normally open (N) common (C) energizing Relay #3.
Relay # 3
turns on the Clean indicator Light and energizes Door Lock Module / Timer (PC
Board) relays LS1-L1 and LS2-M1, also supplying 120VAC to SEL on the PC board
Relays LS1
and
LS2
turns the Door Lock Motor on through the Auto Reset Thermostat contacts
2-1.
Door Lock Motor
rotates opening SW1 and closing SW2 and SW3.
Door Lock Switch #2
completes the circuit to sensor #3 on the PC board. After 10 seconds
LS1-M1 opens, stopping the Door Lock motion.
Door Lock Switch #3
closes T1-T2 and T3-T4 energizing Power Relay #1 and the Cooling Fan .
Closing Power Relay #1's contacts supplies
240VAC to both Broil Elements and 120VAC to the Bake Element.
CLEAN DOOR LOCK ABOVE 575*F +/-25*F
Auto Reset Thermostat
switches to contacts 1-3 turning on the Door Lock indicator Light and disables the Door Lock Motor circuit.
CLEAN TEMPERATURE (875*F)
REACHED.
Door Lock Module / Timer
opens T3 -T-4 and
T1-T2 turning off the Cooling Fan, now powered by the Fan Limit Switch when needed, and opens the circuit to the Power Relay #1 disabling the
Heating Elements.
FINAL BELOW 575*F +/-25*F
Auto Reset Thermostat
switches to contacts 1-
2, turning off the Door Lock Motor circuit through Door Lock Motor / Timer Relay LS2-M-
1. Door Lock Motor operates until 2 seconds after sensor 4 is signaled by VC that the Door
Lock /Timer switches LS2- M1 and LS1-L1 open and the Timer reset.
POWER RELAY (CURRENT) TEST
VDSC-VESO-VEDO Power relay
VOLTAGE SUPPLY - 235 VOLTS AC
CURRENT READINGS AT THE POWER RELAY
BAKE #8
#6
RED
RED
11.8 Amps
11.8 Amps
CONV BAKE
CONV COOK
#8
#6
#8
#6
RED
RED
RED
RED
11.9 Amps
10.5 Amps
8.9 Amps
9.0 Amps
MINI BROIL
MAXI
CONV BROIL
SELF-CLEAN
#8
#6
#8
#6
#8
#6
#8
RED
RED
RED
RED
RED
RED
RED
#6 RED
5.1 Amps
5.0 Amps
12.0 Amps
12.0 Amps
11.9 Amps
11.9 Amps
17.1 Amps
17.1 Amps
#4
#2
#4
#2
#4
#2
#4
#2
#2
#4
#2
#4
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
RED/BLK
10.4 Amps
6.1 Amps
11.9 Amps
11.4 Amps
8.8 Amps
8.9 Amps
5.0 Amps
5.0 Amps
12.0 Amps
11.9 Amps
11.9 Amps
17.1 Amps
#2 RED/BLK 17.9 Amps
63
VCBB BOTTOM FREEZER REFRIGERATOR
Program mode
Accessing Program Mode
Two programming modes are available. Mode A allows reading refrigerator and freezer thermistor temperatures. Mode B is used for all other programmable functions.
1. Open
3. Press * Pad. door.
2. Press Display On pad.
4. Press the following sequence of pads within
6 seconds; Max Ref, Max Frz, Max Ref,
Max Frz.
5. When access is granted, tone will sound three times and control will be in Program
A. Unmarked indicator light will illuminate.
6. Toggle to Program Mode B by pressing
Display on pad. Unmarked indicator light is off.
EEPROM Update in Control Memory
EEPROM is permanent programmable memory of the control panel.
•
Entry tone, door audio alarm and status are used in EEPROM after control is deactivated
•
Information stored in EEPROM memory is not affected by power loss.
Mode A Function
Reading Temperature Display
Temperature display will show themistor temperature in binary coded decimal format (BCD) indicator lights 1 through 4 represent the tens digit with 1 being the most significant bit. Indicator lights 5 through 8 represent ones digit with 5 being the most
64
Significant bit. Positive and negative are shown by indicator light 9; light glows to show negative value.
Freezer Thermistor Temperature
1. Choose freezer thermistor temperature display be pressing Freezer Temp pad.
2. Freezer thermistor temperature displays.
Refrigerator Thermistor Temperature
1. Choose refrigerator thermistor temperature display by pressing Ref Temp pad.
2.
Refrigerator thermistor temperature displays.
Mode B Functions
Automatic Keyboard Functions
Activate and deactivate keyboard be toggling Display
Off pad. If high temperature indicator glows, keyboard will disable after 10 minutes. If high temperature indicator is off, keyboard is always enabled. DO NOT LEAVE KEYBOARD IN
ENABLE MODE AFTER PROGRAMMING IS
COMPLETE.
Door Alarm Delay
1. Press will glow. One temperature indicator should glow indicating present delay setting in minutes (indicator 1 means 1 minute, 2 means 2 minutes, etc.) default delay is 3 minutes.
2. Press Warmer pad to decrease delay by 1 minute.
3. Press Colder pad to increase delay by 1 minute.
Max Ref. Run Time Duration
1. Press Max Ref. Pad. Max Ref. Light will glow.One temperature indicator should glow indicating present Max Ref run time duration in 2 hour increments (indicator 1 means 2 hours, 2 means 4 hours, etc.)
Default delay is 10 hours.
2. Press Warmer pad to decrease Max Ref. duration by 2 hours.
3. Press Colder pad to increase Max Ref duration by 2 hours.
Program Mode –
VCBB Bottom
Freezer – Refrigerator
Max Frz Run Time Duration
1. Press Max Frz pad. Max Frz light will glow. One temperature indicator should glow indicating present Max Frz run time duration in 4 hour increments (indicator 1 means 4 hours, 2 means 8 hours, etc.)
Default delay is 24 hours.
2. Press Warmer pad to decrease Max Frz duration by 4 hours.
3. Press Colder pad to increase Max Frz duration by 4 hours.
Temperature Offset Calibration
Offset amount adjusts temperatures for refrigerator cut ins and cut outs by the amount of offset. The chart below shows the indicator and the amount of offset from the factory default setting.
•
Setting Refrigerator Temperature Offset.
Press Ref Temp pad. Refrigerator indicator and one indicator will glow. Press Warmer pad to move offset to the next warmer setting. Press Colder pad to move to the next colder setting. Factory default refrigerator offset is +2.
65
•
•
Setting Freezer Temperature Offset.
Press Freezer pad. Freezer temperature indicator and one indicator will glow. Press
Warmer pad to move offset to the next warmer setting. Press Colder pad to move offset to the next colder setting. Factory default freezer offset is 0.
Default Mode Selection
Toggle * pad to select adaptive or conventional defrost mode. Vacation indicator glows when adaptive defrost has been selected. If vacation indicator is off, conventional defrost is selected.
Conventional defrost uses 8 hour CRTD value.
Forced Defrost
Defrost can be forced to start by pressing and holding the Alarm Off pad for 3 seconds. Program changes will be saved permanently in EEPROM and program mode will exit to Run Mode.
Forced Pull Down (Compressor Start)
Compressor start can be forced by pressing and holding Max Frz for 3 seconds. Program changes will be saved permanently in EEPROM.
Compressor, evaporator, fan, damper heater, and condenser fan will come on.
Exiting Program Mode
Press Display On pad for 3 seconds to exit Program
Mode. Tone will sound three times. Changes made in Program Mode will be permanently saved in
EEPROM.
Note:
If no pad is pressed for 10 minutes, Program
Mode will be automatically exited. However , no changes will be saved if Program Mode exits automatically.
ELECTRONIC TESTING –
VCBB BOTTOM
FREEZER – REFRIGERATOR
Electronic Testing Mode
Forced Defrost Start
1. Press Display On pad to activate control panel.
2. Simultaneously press and hold Max Ref and Display Off pads for 3 seconds.
Forced Compressor Start
1. Press Display On pad to activate control panel.
2. Simultaneously press and hold Max Frz and Display Off pad for 3 seconds.
Open Thermistor Detect
Alarm sounds and freezer or refrigerator indicator light shows and temperature indicator 4 through 7 will turn on in sequence if either thermistor circuit opens. Refer to Temperature
Control Operation section and Electronic Testing section.
1. Press Alarm Off pad to turn off alarm.
2. Alarm will reset for normal operation.
If conditions has not been corrected, alarm will sound again.
Evaporator Fan Suppression
The evaporator fan will turn off every time either refrigerator or freezer door is open.
To test if this function is operating:
1. Perform forced pull down procedure as noted above—evaporator fan should be on.
2. Open the refrigerator or freezer door— the fan should turn off.
3. Push the light switch off – the evaporator fan should start.
If fan does not toggle off and on when refrigerator light switch is turned off and on it has been determined evaporator fan motor operational, perform following tests to determine failure.
1. Check for line voltage on terminal E7 on high voltage board. With refrigerator door open (refrigerator light
ON) reading should be 120 VAC. With refrigerator door closed (refrigerator light OFF) reading should be approximately 0 VAC. If voltage does not change with light switch and light is turning light off and on, red/white wire is broken between switch and high voltage board.
2. Check for voltage on terminal E7 on high voltage board. Output voltage should toggle with toggling of light switch. If output voltage does not toggle, high voltage board needs replacing.
3. If terminal 7 on high voltage board changes with opening and closing of door, orange wire in low voltage harness is broken (check for continuity between pin 7 on high voltage board and pin 10 on low voltage board) or low voltage board needs replacing.
1. Check for line voltage on terminal E8 on high voltage board. With freezer door open, reading should be 120 VAC.
With door closed, reading should be approximately 0 VAC. If voltage does not change with light switch and light switch is turning light off and on, violet/white wire is broken between switch and high voltage board.
2. Check for voltage on pin 7 on pin connector on high voltage board.
Output voltage should toggle with toggling of light switch. If it does not toggle, high voltage board needs replacing .
3. If voltage on pin 7 on pin connection on high voltage board changes with opening and closing of door, orange wire in low voltage harness is broken
(check for continuity between pin 7 on high voltage pin connection and pin 10 on low voltage board) or low voltage board needs replacing.
66
Electronic Function Description
---VCBB Bottom Freezer - Refrigerator
WARNING:
To avoid electrical shock which can cause severe personal injury or death, desconnect power to refrigerator using power switch before servicing. Wires removed during disassembly must be replaced on proper terminals to insure earthing and polarization. After servicing, reconnect power using power switch.
67
Electronic Function Description ---
VCBB Bottom Freezer - Refrigerator
WARNING
To avoid electrical shock which can cause severe personal injury or death, disconnect power to refrigerator using power switch before servicing. Wires removed during disassembly must be replaced on proper terminals to insure correct earthing and polarization. After servicing, reconnect power using power switch.
Refrigeration and Defrost Component Checks Made at High Voltage Board
Low voltage board input W1 to D11
E10 to E9 (Neutral) or ground
Compressor/condenser fan motor
Compressor/condenser fan motor relay
Evaporator fan motor relay
Evaporator fan motor
Defrost heater
Defrost heater relay
“ON” = E4 to E9 (Neutral) or ground
“OFF” = E4 to E9 (Neutral) or ground
“CLOSED” = R7 to ground
“OPEN” = R7 to ground
“CLOSED” = R8 to ground
“OPEN” = R8 to ground
“ON” =E2 (Neutral) or ground
“OFF” = E2 (Neutral) or ground
“ON” = E6 to E9 (Neutral) or ground
“OFF” = E6 to E9 (Neutral) or ground
Defrost terminator
DC fan output voltage from high voltage board to fresh food fan or condensate evaporator fan
“CLOSED” = R9 to ground
“ OPEN” = R9 to ground
“CLOSED” =E5 to E9 (Neutral) ground
“OPEN” = E5 to E9 (Neutral) or ground
“ON’ = E1 to ground
“OFF” = E1 to ground
DC fan input voltage signal to high voltage board from low voltage board for fresh food
“ON” =R10 to ground
“OFF” = R10 to ground fan and for condensate evaporator
Filament voltage at pin 11 and 12 = less than 5VDC approximately approximately approximately approximately approximately
-25VDC
120VDC
120VDC approximately -11VDC approximately -25VDC approximately approximately approximately approximately approximately approximately approximately approximately
-11VDC
-25VDC
120VDC
0VDC
120VDC
0VDC
-11VDC
-25VDC
120VDC
0VDC
-25VDC
0VDC
-11VDC
-25VDC
68
Component Testing
---VCBB Bottom Freezer – Refrigerator
Component Description Test Procedure
Capacitor Run
Terminals 3 and L2 side of line.
1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.
2. Remove captor cover and disconnect
3. Discharge capacitor by shorting across
Terminals with a resistor for 1 minute.
4. Check resistance across capacitor terminals with ohmmeter set on Rx1K
Scale.
•
Good—needle swings to 0 ohms and slowly moves back to infinity.
•
Open – needle does not move.
Replace capacitor.
•
Shorted – needle jumps toward 0 and then moves back to constant high resistance (not infinity).
Capillary
Tube
Capillary is sized in diameter, and length to feed proper amount of
Capillary is soldered to suction line to transfer heat from capillary and add additional superheat to gas refrigerant in compressor line.
Capillary discharges into evaporator.
Restricted or clogged capillary tube must be replaced with tube of same inner diameter length.
69
Component Testing
---VCBB Bottom Freezer – Refrigerator
Component Description Test Procedure
Compressor When compressor electrical circuit is
Resistance test
energized, the start winding current causes relay to heat. After an amount of starting time, start winding circuit
Turns off. Relay will switch off start
1. Disconnect power to unit.
2. Discharge capacitor be shorting across terminals
with a resistor for 1 minute.
3. Remove leads from compressor terminals winding circuit even though compressor 4. Set ohmmeter to lowest scale. has not started (for example, when attempting to restart after momentary power interruption).
5. Check for resistance between
Terminals “S” and “C”
Terminals “R” and “C”
If either compressor winding read open (infinite or very high resistance) or dead short (0 ohms),
With “open” relay, compressor will not start because there is little or no current to start windings. Overload protection will open due to high locked rotor run winding current.
With “shorted” relay or capacitor, compressor will start and overload protector will quickly open due to high current of combined run and windings.
With open or weak capacitor, `
Compressor will start and run as
Normal but will consume more energy.
Ground test
1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.
2. Discharge capacitor by shorting terminals
through a resistor for 1 minute.
3. Remove compressor leads and use an ohm-
meter set on highest scale.
4. Touch one lead to compressor body (clean
point of contact) and the other probe to each
compressor terminal. If a reading is obtained,
compressor is grounded and must be replaced.
Operation test
If voltage, capacitor, overload, and motor winding test good, perform the following test.
1. Disconnect power to refrigerator.
2 Discharge capacitor by shorting terminals
Through a resistor for 1 minute.
3. Remove leads from compressor terminals.
4. Wire a test cord to power switch.
5. Place time delayed fuse with UL rating equal to
amp rating of motor in test cord socket.
6. Remove overload and relay.
7. Connect start, common and run leads of test cord
8. Attach capacitor leads of test core together. If
capacitor is used, attach capacitor to a known capacitor of same capacity.
70
Component Testing
---VCBB Bottom Freezer – Refrigerator
Compressor Description Test Procedure
9. Plug test cord into volt-watt meter to determine start and run wattage as well as check for low voltage which can also be a source of trouble.
10. With power to volt-meter, press start cord switch and release.
•
If compressor motor start and draws normal wattage, com- pressor is okay and trouble is in capacitor, relay / overload, freezer temperature control, or elsewhere in system.
•
If compressor does not start when direct wired, recover system at high side. After system is recovered, repeat compressor direct wire test. If compressor runs after recovery but would not run when direct wired before recovery, a restriction is indicated.
•
If compressor does not run when wired direct after recovery, replace faulty compressor.
Condenser
Condenser
is of tube and wire construction located in compressor compartment.
Condenser
is on high pressure discharge side of compressor.
Condenser function is to transfer heat absorbed by refrigerant to ambient.
Higher pressure
gas is routed to condenser where, as gas temperature is reduced, gas condenses into a high pressure liquid state. Heat transfer takes place because discharge gas is at a higher temperature than air that is passing over condenser. It is very important that adequate air flow over condenser is main-
tained.
Leaks in condenser can usually be detected be using an electronic or soap solution. Look for signs of compressor oil when checking for leaks. A certain amount of compressor oil is circulated with
refrigerant.
Leaks in post condenser loop are rare because loop is a one-piece copper tube except for brazed joint visible in machine compartment.
For Minute Leaks
1. Separate condenser from rest of refrigeration system and pressurize condenser up to a maximum of 9.65 bars (140 PSI) with a refrigerant and dry nitrogen combination.
2. Recheck for leaks.
Condenser
is air cooled by condenser fan motor. If efficiency of heat transfer from condenser to surrounding air is impaired, condensing temperature becomes higher.
High liquid temperature means the liquid will not remove as much heat during boiling in evaporator as under normal conditions. This is indicated by higher than normal head pressure, long run time, and
high
From compressor refrigerant flows into serpentine under condensate pan to help evaporate condensate, and then into pre-condenser loop which helps control exterior condensation on flange, center mullion, and around freezer door.
Remove any lint accumulation, etc. that would restrict normal air movement through condenser.
71
Component Description Test Procedures
From condenser refrigerant flows into capillary and then to evaporator before returning to compressor through suction line.
Drier Drier is placed at post condenser loop outlet and to capillary.
Desiccant (20) 8x12 4AXH -
Drier must be changed every time the system is opened for testing or compressor replacement.
NOTE:
Drier used in R12 sealed system is not inter-
changeable with drier used in R134a sealed system.
7 M>S> Grams. Before opening refrigeration system, recover HFC134a refrigerant for safe disposal.
1.
2.
Score capillary tube close to drier and break.
Reform inlet tube to drier allowing enough space for
3. large tube cutter.
Cut circumference of drier 1 1/4" below condenser inlet tube joint to drier.
4.
5. Apply heat trap paste on post condenser tubes to protect grommets from high heat.
Unbraze
system.
7. Discard drier in safe place. Do not leave drier with customer. If refrigerator is under warranty, old drier must accompany warranty claim.
Evaporator Inner volume of evaporator allows liquefied refrigerant discharged from capillary
Test for leaks in evaporator with electronic leak detector or with soap solution. Compressor oil is circulated with refrigerant, check for oil when checking for leaks.
to into gas.
NOTE:
Follow all procedures for recovering R134a refrigerant for safe disposal when opening system.
Expansion cools evaporator
tube temperature
For Minute Leaks: approximately -20 F
transferring section to refrigerator.
Passing through suction line to compressor, the refrigerant picks up superheat (a relation- ship between pressure and temperature that assures complete vaporization of liquid refrigerant) as result of capillary in suction line.
To avoid severe personal injury or death from eruption of high pressure gases, observe the following.
Protect against a sudden eruption if high pressures are required for leak checking
.
Do not use high pressure compressed gasses in refrigeration systems without a reliable pressure regulator and pressure relief valve in the line
Component Description Test Procedures
Refrigerant gas is pulled through 1. Separate evaporate from rest of refrigeration system and suction line by compressor to complete the refrigerant cycle.
pressurize evaporator up to a maximum of 235 PSI with
a refrigerant and dry nitrogen combination.
2. Recheck for leaks.
Heater,
cavity
Applied to back of ice and water Check resistance across heater. cavity to help prevent conden- sation from forming on face of cavity. Wired in series with hot side of line through auger motor interlock switch.
If heater is faulty, use spare heater foamed in place at factory.
Heater,
evaporator
(defrost)
See “Electronic Function
Description, Adaptive Defrost
Circuitry.
Check resistance across heater.
To check defrost system:
1. Thermocouple defrost thermostat and plug refrigerator into
wattmeter.
2. Force into defrost mode (see section on electronic testing)
Wattmeter should read specified watts (according to Technical
Data Sheet) ±5 F; thermostat should interrupt power to heater
Heater, For use only to reduce mullion condensation on center mullion.
Heater foamed in place. Not powered from the factory.
To connect mullion heater to power:
1. Disconnect power to unit using power switch.
2.
3. Remove bracket holding condensate evaporation fan and valve.
4. Locate water valve wiring harness.
5. Carefully slit wiring harness vinyl sleeve to expose on black inside sleeve.
6. Connect to heater leads at left side of cabinet.
7. Wrap vinyl sleeve with electrical tape to close slit.
Ice Maker See “Ice Maker” section for information.
Motor, Condenser fan moves cooling Check resistance across motor windings. condenser
Motor,
Evaporator air across condenser coil and fan 3. motor frame must not exceed .05 ohms.
4. Check for voltage at connection to motor.
Evaporator motor moves air across evaporator coil.
1. Disconnect power to unit.
2. Disconnect fan motor leads.
73
Component Description Test Procedures
Motor, DC fans Refrigerator fan circulates cold air into refrigerator
Condenser evaporation fan
And out through toe grille
See Refrigeration and Defrost Component Checks made at high voltage board. For DC fan voltage check procedures at high voltage
Check for voltage across terminals. to assure complete conden- evaporation.
DC fan motors are
Relay, PTC connected in series with switch.
Overload/Relay Overload is a temperature 1. Disconnect power to the refrigerator. and current sensing device.
Overload opened when high current or high compressor
Can require up to two hours
Depending on ambient
Temperature and residual
Heat load in compressor.
2. Remove relay cover and pull relay off compressor. Pull overload protector off compressor common terminal.
3. With ohmmeter, check the resistance between male terminal and female pin receptacle terminal which pushes onto is common terminal. At ambient room temperature overload protector should have less than 1 ohm
After overload opens, reset resistance. An open overload protector will have infinite resistance.
Relay (see PTC relay)
When voltage is connected and relay is cool, current passed through relay to start winding. After a short time, current heats the resistor in relay and resistance will rise blocking current flow through relay.
Start winding remains in the circuit through run capacitor.
Solid state relay plugs directly on compressor start and run terminals relay terminals 2 and 3 are connected within relay. Run capacitor is connected to relay terminal 3. L2 side of the 120 VAC power is connected to relay terminal 2.
With power off check resistance across terminals 2 and 3. Refer to Technical Data Sheet for values for model being serviced.
Component Description
Switch, keyboard Semiconductor switch for panel
keyboard.
electronic control is not repairable. If
any is faulty. Entire control must be
replaced.
NOTE:
Repair or replaced line voltage components before testing or replacing electronic control. Do not assume problems are caused be electronic control system.
Opened, shorted, grounded or otherwise faulty line voltage
components cord and wiring) can create problems that appear to be caused by electronic control.
Switch, NO
icemaker interlock
Switch, NC
Refrigerator light,
Freezer light
Refrigerator fan
Interrupts connection to ice maker when freezer door is open.
Completes circuit to allow indicated function. See tech sheet and wiring diagram for individual switch.
Switch, power
DPST
Disconnects all power to unit when switch is OFF (open).
Unit shipped with ON
Test Procedures
Check resistance across terminals.
Switch arm depressed
Switch arm not depressed
Check resistance across terminals.
Switch arm down
“NC” terminal
“NO” terminal
Switch arm up
Closed
Open
“NC” terminals Open
“NO”
Check resistance across terminals
Closed
Open
Switch OFF (open) No continuity between 1-2 or 4-5
Switch ON (closed) continuity between 1-2 and 4-5
75
Component Description Test Procedures
Switch, showroom ON position completes circuit to lights and display only.
Check resistance at test points.
Showroom operation—E3 at high voltage board to pin
3 (blue/white wire) at high voltage wire harness.
OFF position completes circuit for normal operation.
Unit shipped with switch in OFF
Unit run—E9 at high voltage board to pin 3 (blue/white wire) at high voltage wire harness.
position.
Thermistor Senses temperature within
Refrigerator
Check resistance across terminals. See Technical Data and temperatures.
Thermostat Thermostat is in a serried circuit with high voltage board and defrost heater.
Controls the circuit through defrost terminator to defrost heater. Opens and breaks circuit when thermostat senses
high
With power off and evaporator coil below freezing, thermostat should check continuous when checked with ohmmeter . See “Heater, evaporator (defrost)” section for additional tests.
After defrost thermostat opens, thermostat remains open until end of defrost cycle and refrig- erator starts cooling again. when defrost thermostat senses a preset low temperature and
closes.
Valve, water Controls water flow to the ice maker.
Check resistance across coil windings. See Technical
Data Sheet for valves for model being serviced.
Symptom Possible Causes Corrective Acton
Unit does not run No power to unit Check for power at outlet. Check fuse box / circuit breaker for blown fuse or tripped breaker. Replace or reset.
Faulty service cord
Low voltage
Check with test light at unit, if no circuit and current is indicated at outlet, replace or repair.
Check input voltage for proper voltage. Take appropriate
Faulty timer
Faulty relay action to correct voltage supply problem.
Freezer temperature set too warm Adjust temperature.
Check with test light. Replace if necessary.
Check relay. Replace if necessary.
Check compressor motor windings for opens / shorts.
Perform compressor direct wiring test.
Faulty compressor
Faulty
NOTE:
Ensure compressor / overload are below trip temperature before testing.
Refrigerator Excessive door opening
section too warm Overloading of shelves
Consumer education.
Consumer education.
Warm or hot foods placed in cabinet Consumer education.
Refrigerator temperature set too Adjust refrigerator temperature.
warm.
Poor door seal
Dirty condenser
Refrigerator airflow
Interior light remains on necessary. Check airflow fan. Replace if faulty.
Check switch. Replace if necessary.
Faulty condenser fan or evaporator Check fan switch, fan, and wiring. Replace if necessary.
fan
Refrigerator
section too cold
Faulty compressor
Refrigerator temperature set too cold.
Level cabinet. Adjust hinges. Replace gasket.
Clean condenser.
Check airflow grille for obstructions. Adjust as
Check intake valve. Replace compressor.
Adjust refrigerator temperature.
Adjust airflow grille to freezer. Adjust Chef’s pantry control.
Refrigerator airflow not properly
adjusted
Freezer temperature set too cold Freezer section
too cold
Unit runs Temperature set too cold
Adjust freezer temperature.
Adjust temperature.
Continuously Dirty condenser or obstructed grille Check condenser and grille. Clean.
Poor door seal
Interior light remains on
fan
Refrigerant shortage or restriction
Level cabinet. Adjust hinges. Replace gasket.
Check switch. Replace if necessary.
Faulty condenser fan or evaporator Check fan switch, fan, and wiring. Replace if necessary.
Check for leak or restriction. Repair, evacuate and
77
Symptom Possible Causes Corrective Action
Air in system Check for low side leak. Repair, evacuate and recharge system.
Unit runs
continuously.
Temperature
normal
Noisy operation
Ice on evaporator
Loose flooring or floor not firm
Cabinet not level
Tubing in contact with cabinet, other tubing or other metal
Drip tray vibrating
Fan hitting another part
See “Ice on evaporator.”
Repair floor or brace floor.
Level cabinet.
Adjust tubing.
Adjust drain pan.
Ensure fan properly aligned and all attaching hardware and
Worn fan motor bearings brackets are tight and not worn. Tighten or replace.
Check motor for loss of lubricant or worn bearings.
Compressor mounting grommets Tighten hardware. Replace grommets if necessary.
Frost or ice on
Evaporator worn or missing; mounting hardware loose or missing.
Free or loose parts causing or allowing noise during operation
Evaporator fan faulty
Defrost heater remains open
Defrost thermostat faulty
Open wire to connector Check wiring and connections. Repair as necessary.
Refrigerant shortage or restriction Check for leak or restriction. Repair, evacuate and
Unit starts and
stops frequently
Loose wire or thermostat connections
(cycles on & off) High ambient temperature
Supply voltage out of
Inspect unit for parts that may have worked free or loose or missing screws. Repair as required.
Check fan motor. Replace if defective.
Check defrost heater continuity. Replace if faulty.
Check defrost thermostat and replace if faulty.
Check wiring and connections. Repair as necessary.
Consumer education.
Check input voltage. Correct and supply problems.
specifications.
Overload protector open
Faulty compressor motor
capacitor
Faulty compressor
Faulty fan motor
Check overload protector for continuity. If open, replace overload. trip temperature before testing.
Check capacitor for open / short. Replace if necessary.
NOTE
: Discharge capacitor before testing.
Test and replace compressor if faulty.
Check fan motor. Replace if necessary.
Restricted air flow Check condenser and grille for dirt. Clean.
Refrigerant shortage or restriction Check for leak or restriction. Repair, evacuate and
78
Pressure and Temperature Relationship Chart
(See Service Procedures for additional information about items in this chart.)
Condition Suction Head T1 Inlet T2 Outlet T3 Suction Wattage
Pressure
Variation from Normal from Normal from Normal
Refrigerant from Normal from Normal
Overcharge
Refrigerant
Shortage Decrease Colder Warmer Warmer Decrease
Increase
(Restriction
Symptoms)
Partial
Restriction Decrease Decrease or Colder Warmer Warmer Decrease
Increase
(Restriction
Symptoms)
Air in
System Near Normal Increase Warmer Warmer Warmer Increase
Low
Ambient
Installation
(Reverse
from High
Ambient
Installation)
Decrease Decrease Colder Warmer Warmer Decrease
Additional
Heat
Inefficient
Compressor Increase Normal or Warmer
Decrease
Warmer Warmer Decrease
Colder
Wiring: Schematic
---VCBB Bottom Freezer -Refrigerator---
80
---VCBB Bottom Freezer -Refrigerator---
Freezer Compartment Theory of Operation:
As a freezer thermistor warms, the resistance decreases allowing low voltage signal to be sent to electronic control. Electronic control sends two low voltage signals, one to the compressor relay coil (C1) and one to the evaporator relay coil (E1). When both relay coils are energized and both relay contacts are closed, high voltage circuits to evaporator fan motor and compressor / condenser fan motor are complete. As thermistor cools during refrigeration cycle, resistance through thermistor increased blocking low voltage signal to electronic control interrupting circuit.
81
---VCBB Bottom Freezer -Refrigerator---
Refrigeration Compartment Theory of Operation:
As fresh food thermistor warms, resistance decreases allowing low voltage signal to be sent to the electronic control. Electronic control sends a low voltage signal, to semiconductor switch for DC fresh food fan and DC condensate evaporator fan. Both fans begin operating. Fresh food fan circulates freezer air into fresh food compartment. Condensate evaporator fan circulates air over condensate drain pan aiding in evaporation. As fresh food thermistor cools, resistance increases blocking low voltage signal to electronic control interrupting circuit to DC fresh food fan and DC condensate evaporation fan.
82
---VCBB Bottom Freezer -Refrigerator---
Refrigerator and Freezer Compartment Theory of Operation:
If both freezer and fresh food thermistors are warm, their resistance drops (see table Refrigerator and Freezer Thermistor in Temperature Control Section) and the electronic signals for compressor / condenser fan motor operation and for operation of fresh food and condensate evaporator fans. After freezer thermistor cools sufficiently to raise resistance and block the signal to the electronic control, compressor / condenser fan motor will shut off. However, fresh food and condensate evaporator fans will continue to run until fresh food thermistor cools and signal is blocked to electronic control. If fresh food thermistor cools before freezer thermistor, electronic control will interrupt circuit to fresh food and condensate evaporator fans while evaporator fan motor will continue to operate under control of freezer thermistor.
83
---VCBB Bottom Freezer -Refrigerator---
Adaptive Defrost Theory of Operation:
After designated compressor run time, refrigeration cycle is interrupted and electronic control sends a low voltage signal to defrost relay coil (def D1). Powering the relay coil closes contact (D1) completing high voltage circuit to defrost heater through closed defrost terminator (closes at 15
°
F).
Isolator, which is part of high voltage PC board, recognizes presence of line voltage to defrost heater and sends low voltage signal to electronic control. Electronic control keeps count of number of minutes, defrost terminator remains closed (opens at 48
°
F). length of time defrost terminator is closed determines if the next defrost cycle advances by 4 hours of compressor run time, stays at the same interval, or delays by 4 hours of compressor run. If defrost terminator does not open before 29 minutes, defrost cycle is automatically terminated by electronic control and refrigeration cycle will resume after 6 minutes dwell time.
84
Ice Maker Troubleshooting Chart
---VCBB Bottom Freezer – Refrigerator
No or Low Ice Production
Problem
Warm freezer
Action
Adjust freezer control or repair refrigerator
Broken locking tab on vertical cam Replace module module switch and contacts
Stalled or stripped motor Replace module
2:30 Ejector Position
Replace module Contaminated module.
Motor won’t run when “T” and “H” test points are shorted.
Open or missing thermostat
No power to ice maker (harness)
Replace or install thermostat
Determine discontinuity by tracing power
Jammed cubes
Notice size and density of cubes
Frozen fill tube
Kinked water line
Obstructed water line to ice maker or refrigerator.
Clogged water valve
No power to water valve
Low water pressure
Un-jam cubes
Check fill tube cup assembly
Replace water valve
Un-kink line and check line for weak sections
Clear water lin
Replace water valve
Determine discontinuity by tracing power
Short “T” and “H” test points for 10 seconds.
Remove jumpers. Catch water in glass.
Increase water pressure to 20-120 (1.4-8.2 bar)
140cc’s.
Replace mold and heater assembly Open heater circuit
Closed thermostat
Damaged heater tulips on module
Short heater pins that do not contact module
Raised shut-off arm
Water or ice in actuator/housing hole
Small or burred housing hole
Large or burred actuator O.D.
Damaged module housing
Deformed shut-off arm
Little or no alumilastic on thermostat
Housing to mold screws not seated
Heater not staked in mold
Replace thermostat
Replace module
Replace mold and heater assembly
Lower shut-off arm to begin cycle
Remove module
Dry actuator and housing hole
Repair or replace ice maker
Replace module
Replace module
Replace shut-off arm
Apply alumilastic to thermostat
Tighten 2 screws (20-26 in.lb) (22.8-29.6 cm.kg)
Replace mold and heater assembly
85
Ice Maker Troubleshooting Chart
--
-VCBB Bottom Freezer - Refrigerator
---
Incorrect shut-off mislocated shut-off switch
Apply alumilastic
3:00
Contaminated module
Jammed
Notice size and density of cubes
Level refrigerator or ice maker Refrigerator or ice maker not level
No power to ice maker
Excessive
Cubes falling back into mold during ejection Check fill tube assembly
Determine discontinuity by tracing power replace water valve
Replace fill cup
4:00 Ejector Position
Contaminated
Heater not staked in mold
Apply alumilastic
Thermostat
Open heater circuit
Motor should oscillate
Little or not alumilastic on thermostat
Replace mold and heater assembly alumilastic
Apply alumilastic to thermostat
Replace mold and heater assembly
Apply alumilastic
Broken locking tabs on vertical
Contaminated
6:00 Ejector Position
Replace
Apply alumilastic
Insufficient water to ice maker small or hollow cubes
Refer to “Hollow Ice Cubes”
7:30 Ejector Position
Replace
Motor will not oscillate
Shut-off arm stuck in ice or Remove obstruction obstructed Replace
Cubes
Check fill cup and fill tube assembly
9:00 Efector Position
Contaminated
Cubes frozen to fill cup or mold Un-Jam
Replace fill cup and module
86
Ice Maker Troubleshooting Chart
---
VCBB Bottom Freezer - Refrigerator
---
Excessive Ice Production
Problem
Deformed
Shut-off arm not in actuator
Broken shut-off lever or
lever bypassing vertical cam
Broken module actuator
Action
Replace shut-off arm in actuator
Replace shut-off arm
Replace module
Low water fill volume
Improper
Replace module
Hollow Ice Cubes
Adjust module screw, clear water path, or replace water valve
Thermostat out of calibration Replace
Flooding or Ice in Bucket or Freezer
Thermostat out of calibration
Jammed cube stalled in water-fill cycle
Replace thermostat
Apply
Remove cube
Determine reason for stall
Leaky water valve
Excessive water fill volume
Motor stalled in water-fill cycle
(12:
Replace water valve
Replace water valve
Replace module
Contaminated module
Refrigerator or ice maker not level
Excessive water pressure
Shorted and burned module shut-off
switch and contacts
Broken locking tab on verticle cam
(Stalled in water fill)
Fill-tube not properly positioned in
fill
Fill cup water opening blocked
Cubes fall over back of ice maker,
melting in freezer
Replace module
Level refrigerator or ice maker
Decrease water pressure (20-120 psi) (1.4- 8.2bar)
Replace module
Replace module
Reposition fill tube
Replace fill cup
Replace fill cup
87
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE --VGSC SELF-CLEAN FREESTANDING RANGE
PROBLEM
∗∗∗
BAKE SHUTS OFF
(Turn off Selector Switch (2) Turn
off
CONTROL BOARD IS LOCKED OUT
∗
Selector Switch to Bake
(IF FLAME IS NOT DETECTED, THE
∗
Baking Temperature Set
∗
Cycle
∗
Bake Ignitor does not Spark
EXTERNAL LOCKOUT IS EXECUTED
)
Temperature Control (3) Position
(4) Adjust Air Shutter (5) Turn on
Switch (6) Turn on Temperature ignitor
Selector
Control.
∗
No Flame on Burner
∗∗∗
Range Completely Inoperative
Electrically
1.
No supply voltage to range
No voltage to range circuits
1A. No voltage to Thermostat.
∗
Selector Switch to Bake
∗
Baking Temperature set
∗
No Cycle Light
1B. Defective T-stat contacts.
Check fuse/ breaker box
Check high limit switch
1A. Check for 120VAC at the
Neutral. If no voltage is present check for broken or burned wires.
1B. Check continuity across contacts BA to Neutral.
Thermostat terminals BA to
2.
No Bake:
2A.
∗
Selector Switch to Bake
∗
Baking Temperature set
∗
Cycle Light is on
1 to 12 open.
2B. Safety Reset Relay contacts
1 to 2 open.
3.
∗
Selector Switch to Bake
∗
Baking Temperature set
∗
Cycle Light is on
∗
Bake Ignitor does not click
3A. Direct Spark Ignition Module
(DSI) inoperative.
1 to 12 on Selector Switch.
Open contacts, replace
Selector Switch.
2B. Check continuity at contacts
1 to 2 on Safety Auto Reset,
Open contacts, replace Safety
Auto Reset.
3A Check for 120VAC to pin #6
(BA / YEL). 120VAC present,
Replace DSI module.
4.
∗
Selector Switch to Bake
∗
Baking Temperature set
∗
Cycle Light is on
∗
Bake
∗
Gas Valve clicks
∗
Gas supply tubing on wrong
5.
∗
Bake functions normally
4A. Open coil in the Bake Solenoid valve.
4B. Air in the gas line.
5A. Open contacts in the Selector
Switch.
5B. Open Motor windings in the
Convection Fan Motor.
4A. Check continuity across the
Solenoid coils, If open replace the Solenoid Gas Valve.
When the coil is okay check
4B. Purge the Gas Line, turn control off and retry.
5A. Check continuity from 5 to 7 on the Selector Switch. If
open
5B. Check continuity across the
Motor windings. If open
replace
6.
PROBLEM
No broil:
∗
Selector Switch set to Broil
∗
Temperature set to Broil
∗
Bake
PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
6A. Open contacts in the Selector
Switch. normally
∗
Cycle Light is on 6B. Direct Spark Ignition Module
∗
Broil Ignitor does not click
∗
Gas supply tubing on wrong
∗
Gas Valve
(DSI) inoperative.
7.
No Broil:
∗
Selector Switch set to Broil
∗
Temperature set to Broil
∗
Bake functions normally
∗
Cycle Light is on
∗
Broil Ignitor clicks
7A. Open coil in Broil Solenoid valve.
7B. Air in the gas line.
Module. No voltage check wiring.
6A. Check continuity from 1 to 11 on the Selector Switch. If open replace Selector Switch.
6B. Check for 120VAC at pin 7
(BR / RED) on the Module.
If voltage is present, replace
7A. Check continuity across Broil
Valve. If open, replace valve.
7B. Purge the gas line, turn the
control off and retry.
8A.Check continuity from 5 to 7 on
The Selector Switch. If open replace Selector Switch
8.
No Convection Broil:
∗
Selector Switch set to Broil
∗
Temperature set to Broil
∗
Broil Functions normally
8A. Open contacts in the Selector
Switch.
8B. Open Windings in the
Convection Fan Motor.
9.
No Self-clean:
Before Door Lock
•
Selector Switch to Clean
∗
Thermostat to Clean
9A. Selector Switch contacts
2 to 10 open
(Against upper stop)
∗
Bake functions normally
∗
Broil functions normally
∗
Clean Light does not light
∗
Door does not lock 9B. Selector Switch contacts
5 to 6 open
8B. Check continuity across the
Motor windings. If open replace
Motor. Check wiring.
9A. Check continuity from contact
2 to 10. If open replace for Power at
PCB.
T2
Timer (PC) Board.
Selector
Switch. Contacts okay, check
on the Timer
No power , check the wiring from Selector Switch form the Selector Switch to the
9B. Check continuity from contact
5 to 6. If open replace the
Selector Switch. Contacts okay, check for power at
SEL
timer board. No power on
`
9C. No power to L1 on the
Timer PCB.
9D. No power to Pin 1 on the
Auto Reset
9E. No Power to Timer PCB contact LS2. check the wiring from selector
Switch to Timer PCB.
9C.
Check wiring from L2 to
L1.On
Timer PCB.
9D. Check continuity from Timer
PCB Pin L1 to LS1. If open
replace the Timer PCB.
9E. Auto Reset not closing. Check
Continuity from Auto Reset
Pin 1 to Pin 2. If open replace
Auto Reset. Contact okay check wiring from Auto Reset
Pin 2 to Timer PCB Pin LS2.
89
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE
9F. No power to Door Lock Motor
10.
Before 600 F After
10A. Selector Switch contacts
2 to 10 open
Door Lock
∗
Selector Switch to Clean 10B. Timer PCB open contacts
∗
Thermostat to Clean
(Against the upper stop)
T1 to T2.
∗
Bake functions normally
∗
Broil functions normally
∗
Clean Light is on
∗
Door lock engaged 10C. Door Lock Switch SW3
∗
No spark to Broil Igniter
∗
No Broil flame open.
11.
Partial Self-clean:
10D. Micro switch on the T-stat open.
10E. Selector Switch contacts
4 to 8 open.
11A. Selector Switch contacts
3 to 9 open.
After 600 F After
Door Locks
∗
Broil Burner comes on
during the first half of
Self-clean.
∗
Bake Burner fails to
Ignite during the last half
11B. Bake Relay contacts
9 to 6 open.
CORRECTION
9F. Check for power at M1 on the Timer
PCB. If no power replace the Timer
PCB. Power at M1, check wiring to
Door Lock Motor. Check continuity of the Door Lock Motor. No contin- uity, replace the Motor.
10A. Check continuity from pin 2 to 10.
If open replace Selector Switch.
Continuity checks okay.
10B Check for power at T2 on the
Timer PCB, no power check wiring from Selector Switch to
Timer PCB. Check continuity from T1 to T2 on Timer PCB.
If open replace Timer PCB.
10C Check for power at the COM
connection on the Micro-switch
on the Thermostat. No power,
check the Door Lock Switch
SW3 for continuity. If open,
replace SW3 on the Door Lock.
Switch. Contacts okay, check the
wiring from pin 8 to the DSI
module.
11A. Check continuity from pin 3 to
9 on the Selector Switch, open
11B. Check continuity from pin 9 to
6 on the Bake Relay, open contacts
replace Relay.
Contacts replace Selector Switch
10D. Check continuity across pin COM to NO. If open replace Thermostat
.
10E. Check continuity across pins 4 to 8.
Open contacts, replace Selector
of the clean cycle.
∗
Bake functions normally
12.
Cooling Fan:
∗
Does not come on when
place in self-clean.
∗
Self-clean cycle okay
during initial startup.
13.
Cooling Fan:
∗
Does not turn off
(The Cooling Fan will
normally run for several
minutes after a self-clean
cycle, until the temperature
drops to a safe level.)
12A. Timer PCB contacts T4 to T3 open.
13A. Fan Switch defective.
12A. Check continuity from T3 to T4 on
Timer PCB. If open replace the
Timer PCB. Contacts good check continuity across the Fan Motor.
No continuity, replace the motor.
13A. Fan Switch is normally open.
Check continuity when cold, if closed, replace the Fan Switch.
90
VGSC306 DIAGNOSTICS BAKE
NOTE
: RANGE MUST BE TURNED ON FOR AT
LEAST 40 SECONDS BEFORE MAKING THESE
TESTS.
Check for 120 VAC at J1-4 to J1-10 (see illustration
#1). No voltage, diagnose main wiring harness.
120VAC should always be present at this point.
Disconnect the line voltage to the range for approximately 1 minute. Then reconnect the supply voltage. If the supply voltage is not restored check for an open overload protector or a broken wire from the terminal block.
Is 120VAC present from J1-4 to J1-6?
YES
:
Is 120VAC present from J1-4 TO J1-7
(illustration #3)?
YES:
Diagnose THERMOSTAT . The module will lock out if a call for Bake and Broil exists simultaneously.
Is 120VAC present from J1-4 to J1-7?
NO
:
Remove call for Bake (turn Thermostat off) test valve continuity, measure resistance between
J1-1 and J1-2, then J1-1 to J1-3 (illustration
#4). Are both resistances 216 ohms
±
30 ohms?
DOES BAKE CYCLE FUNCTION PROPERLY?
NO
:
Check POLARITY of supply. Even if no ground is connected, the module will not be able to sense flame presence at the ignitor if the polarity is reversed.
Does the BAKE BURNER establish a flame then shut off?
YES:
Does spark continue after flame is established?
NO:
Replace Valve.
YES
:
Check the ignitor for continuity. If no continuity, replace ignitor. If supply voltage polarity is correct, check BAKE IGNITOR wire for loose connection. If connection is good, replace module.
Does the BAKE BURNER establish a flame then shut off?
Is 120VAC present to J1-4 to J1-6
(illustration #2)?
NO:
Diagnose main wiring harness and / or
N O
:
Measure resistance at the valve, if resistances are different then measured at module, diagnose wiring harness. If resistances are the same as measured at module, then replace the valve. Remove call for bake (turn thermostat off), test valve continuity; measure resistance between J1-1 and J1-2, then J1-2 to J1-3
(illustration #4). Are both resistances 216
YES
:
ohms
±
30 ohms?
Connect DC voltm eter to J1-1 (+) and J1-2 (-), wait 40 seconds then start a Bake cycle. Six seconds after the Bake cycle is started, does a
YES
:
DC voltage of 7 to 15 VDC appear?
If voltage is higher the 15VDC , check the main wiring harness for bad connections. If
OK, replace valve.
D oes spark occur at ignitor?
NO:
D oes spark occur at Broil ignitor, not Bake?
YES:
Check for correct wiring to Bake / Broil va lves.
D oes spark occur at Broil ignitor, not Bake?
YES:
Check ignitor for crack in the ceramics . If cracks are found, replace ignitor. Diagnose
Bake ignitor wiring harness. Check for reversed Bake and Broil wires at the valves. If
OK replace module.
D oes spark occur at ignitor?
YES:
The ignitor position is out of tolerance for proper ignition. Adjust or replace ignitor and burner. thermostat.
91
VGSC306 DIAGNOSTICS BROIL
NOTE
: RANGE MUST BE TURNED ON FOR AT
LEAST 40 SECONDS BEFORE MAKING THESE
TESTS.
Check for 120 VAC at J1-4 to J1-10 (see illustration
#1). No voltage, diagnose main wiring harness.
120VAC should always be present at this point.
Disconnect the line voltage to the range for approximately 1 minute. Then reconnect the supply voltage. If the supply voltage is not restored check for an open overload protector or a broken wire from the terminal block.
Is 120VAC present from J1-4 TO J1-6
(illustration #6)?
YES:
Diagnose THERMOSTAT . The module will lock out if a call for Bake and Broil exists simultaneously.
Is 120VAC present from J1-4 to J1-7?
NO
:
Remove call for Broil (turn Thermostat off) test valve continuity, measure resistance between
J1-1 and J1-2, then J1-1 to J1-3 (illustration
#7). Are both resistances 216 ohms
±
30 ohms?
DOES BROIL CYCLE FUNCTION PROPERLY?
NO
:
Check POLARITY of supply. Even if no ground is connected, the module will not be able to sense flame presence at the igniter if the polarity is reversed.
Does the BROIL BURNER establish a flame then shut off?
YES:
Does spark continue after flame is established?
NO:
Replace Valve.
YES
:
Check the igniter for continuity. If no continuity, replace igniter. If supply voltage polarity is correct, check BROIL IGNITOR wire for loose connection. If connection is good, replace module.
Does the BROIL BURNER establish a flame then shut off?
NO:
Is 120VAC present to J1-4 to J1-7 (illustration
NO
:
#5)?
Diagnose main wiring harness and /or thermostat.
Is 120VAC present from J1-4 to J1-7?
YE S
:
N O
:
Measure resistance at the valve, if resistances are different then measured at module, diagnose wiring harness. If resistances are the same as measured at module, then replace the valve. Remove call for Broil (turn thermostat off), test valve continuity; measure resistance between J1-1 and J1-2, then J1-2 to J1-3
(illustration #4). Are both resistances 216 ohms
±
30 ohms?
YES
:
Connect DC voltm eter to J1-1 (+) and J1-2 (-), wait 40 seconds then start a Broil cycle. Six seconds after the Broil cycle is started, does a
YES
:
DC voltage of 7 to 15 VDC appear?
If voltage is higher the 15VDC , check the main wiring harness for bad connections. If
OK, replace valve.
D oes spark occur at igniter?
NO:
D oes spark occur at Bake igniter, not Broil?
YES:
Check for correct wiring to Bake / Broil va lves.
D oes spark occur at Bake igniter, not Broil?
YES:
Check igniter for crack in the ceramics . If cracks are found, replace igniter. Diagnose
Broil igniter wiring harness. Check for reversed Bake and Broil wires at the valves. If
OK replace module.
D oes spark occur at igniter?
YES:
The igniter position is out of tolerance for proper ignition. Adjust or replace igniter and burner.
92
VGRC CHECK LIST
(
PRODUCT MANUFACTURED BETWEEN JANUARY 4, 2000 – MAY 12, 2000
Symptoms: Range will not come on. Intermittent sparking. No sparking,
Check POLARITY.
Check for 120VAC between J1 – 4 and J1 – 10. There should always be 120VAC at this point
.
Check for power between pin 4 and 6 (J1 connector on DSI PC board).
If power is not present, check wiring and/or Therm ostat.
If power is present, check power between 4 and 7. The module will lock out if a call for bake and broil exists simultaneously.
CORRECTION:
When all voltages are correct to the board, check the part number for the board.
Part #PA020025 is the part number used before May 12, 2000. Replace board with new board PA020035.
SYMPTOM:
Range cycles off during bake and will not re-ignite.
C ORRECTION:
Check for the three ports added opposite the spark igniter. If the three ports are not there, replace the bake burner with part #PB050059.
93
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