reparaturanleitung motor repair manual engine manuale di

reparaturanleitung motor repair manual engine manuale di
REPARATURANLEITUNG
REPAIR MANUAL
MANUALE DI RIPARAZIONE
MANUEL DE RÉPARATION
MANUAL DE REPARACIÓN
MOTOR
ENGINE
MOTORE
MOTEUR
MOTOR
125 / 200
‘98
7. 97
ART. NR. 3.205.27
1 General
1
2 Removing engine / Refitting engine
2
3 Dismantling engine
3
4 Servicing on individual components
4
5 Engine assembly
5
6 Electrical
6
7 Trouble shooting
7
8 Technical data / maintenance schedule
8
9 Wiring diagrams
9
(see at the end of this repair manual)
INTRODUCTION
THIS REPAIR MANUAL OFFERS EXTENSIV REPAIR-INSTRUCTIONS AND IS AN UP-TO-DATE VERSION THAT DESCRIBES THE LATEST MODELS OF
THE SERIES. HOWEVER, THE RIGHT TO MODIFICATIONS IN THE INTEREST OF TECHNICAL IMPROVEMENT IS RESERVED WITHOUT UPDATING
THE CURRENT ISSUE OF THIS MANUAL.
A
DESCIRIPTION OF GENERAL WORKING MODES COMMON IN WORK SHOPS HAS NOT BEEN INCLUDED. SAFETY RULES COMMON IN THE
WORK SHOP HAVE ALSO NOT BEEN LISTED. WE TAKE IT FOR GRANTED THAT THE REPAIRS ARE MADE BY QUALIFIED PROFESIONALLY TRAINED MECHANICS.
READ THROUGH THE REPAIR MANUAL BEFORE BEGINNING WITH THE REPAIR WORK.
WARNING
STRICT COMPLIANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS IS ESSENTIAL
TO AVOID DANGER TO LIFE AND LIMB.
CAUTION
!
!
NON-COMPLIANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN LEAD TO
DAMAGE OF MOTORCYCLE COMPONENTS OR RENDER MOTORCYCLES UNFIT FOR TRAFFIC !
„NOTE” POINTS OUT USEFUL TIPS.
USE ONLY ORIGINAL KTM SPARE PARTS WHEN REPLACING PARTS.
THE KTM HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE IS ONLY ABLE TO MEET USER EXPECTATIONS IF THE MAINTENANCE WORK IS PERFORMED REGULARLY AND PROFESSIONALLY.
FOR TECHNICAL DATA SEE LAST SECTION OF THIS MANUAL. UP-TO-DATE INFORMATION IS PUBLISHED IN OUR UPDATED SPARE PARTS CATALOGUES.
KTM AUSTRIA’S CERTIFICATE OF ACHIEVEMENT FOR ITS QUALITY SYSTEM
ENGINEERED QUALITY PLAN FOR A BRIGHTER TOMORROW.
ISO 9001
IS THE BEGINNING OF AN ON- GOING TOTAL RE-
KTM SPORTMOTORCYCLE AG
5230 MATTIGHOFEN, AUSTRIA
ALL DESIGN AND ASSEMBLY MODIFICATION RIGHTS RESERVED.
1
1.0 General
1
Chap. Component / Component unit
1.1
Page
Special tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1-2
1.1 Special tools
1
2
12
9
1
3
10
SS
MA
X
12
5+
20
0
20
12
5
0
11
4
7
5
6
2
FIG.
steel plate
self made
PARTNO.
DESCRIPTION
1
560.12.001.000
UNIVERSAL MOUNTING RACK ‘96
2
503.29.003.000
CLUTCH HOLDER 125/200
3
503.29.004.000
HOLDER FOR PRIMARY GEAR
4
546.29.009.044
MAGNETIC PULLER M27X1 KOKUSAN
5
510.12.011.000
SPECIAL CIRCLIP PLIER
6
546.29.012.100
HOLDING SPANNER ROTOR KOKUSAN 2K-3
7
546.29.012.000
HOLDING SPANNER ROTOR KOKUSAN 2K-1/2K-2
8
6 899 785
LOCTITE 242 BLUE 6CCM
9
151.12.017.000
BEARING EXTRACTOR
10
151.12.018.200
INTERN. BEARING PULLER 5-7 MM
11
503.29.022.000
ADJUSTING PLATE FOR CONTROL FLAP
12
503.29.038.000
HOLDING PLATE FOR LOCATING DRUM
8
wooden fork
self made
2.0 Removing engine, Refitting engine
Chap. Component / Component unit
Page
2.1
Removing engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-1
2.2
Refitting engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-2
2.1 Removing the engine
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
Thoroughly clean the motorcycle.
Use a suitable supporting device to jack up the motorcycle.
Remove the seat and the tank with the spoilers.
Drain the cooling liquid.
Remove the exhaust system and the engine brace.
Disconnect the radiator hoses at the engine.
Remove the carburetor.
– Remove the engine sprocket cover and the chain.
– Disconnect the electrical wires.
– Remove the driving cylinder of the clutch together with the attached wire. Do
not lose the ball in the pressure piston.
– Pull the push rod out of the housing.
– Unhook the return spring of the foot brake pedal from the clutch cover.
– Undo the engine mounting screws.
– Remove the swingarm pivot and pull the swingarm backwards.
– Lift the engine out of the frame on the left side.
NOTE: THE CYLINDER HEAD AND THE CYLINDER CAN BE REMOVED WITHOUT PREVIOUSLY
REMOVING THE ENGINE. IT IS ALSO POSSIBLE TO WORK ON THE CLUTCH, THE PRIMARY DRIVE
AND THE SHIFT DRUM LOCATING DEVICE WITHOUT PREVIOUSLY REMOVING THE ENGINE. THE WATER
PUMP CAN BE REMOVED AND INSTALLED WITHOUT PREVIOUSLY REMOVING THE CLUTCH COVER.
2
1
2.2 Installing the engine
– Lift the engine into the frame from the left side, slightly grease and mount the
swingarm pivot.
– Twist in the engine mounting screws.
– Mount the engine brace.
2
2
– Connect the electrical wires.
– Oil the push rod and insert it into the main shaft.
– Mount the driving cylinder of the clutch together with a new gasket and fasten
it with a screw. Don’t forget the ball!
NOTE: AN APPROPRIATE GASKET MUST BE USED FOR THE DRIVING CYLINDER OF THE CLUTCH
TO MAKE SURE THAT THE CLUTCH RELEASE WORKS PROPERLY. FOR THIS PURPOSE MEASURE
DIMENSION „Y“ (SEE CHAPTER 5.18).
– Mount the chain and the engine sprocket cover.
– Mount the carburetor.
– Connect the radiator hoses to the engine and fill the cooling system with a mixture of 40 % antifreeze and 60 % water. For this purpose twist out the bleeder
screws at the cylinder head and at the right radiator. Retighten the screws as
soon as the cooling liquid that emerges is free of air bubbles.
– Mount the exhaust system.
– Mount the tank with the spoilers and the seat.
– Remove the plug at the clutch cover and fill in 0.7 l engine oil 20W-40.
– Fix the breather tube to the frame.
– Check the electrical system for faultless operation.
– Adjust the carburetor.
– Test ride.
– After the test ride, check the engine, the cooling system and the exhaust system
for leaks.
3.0 Dismantling engine
Cap.
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5
3.6
3.7
3.8
3.9
3.10
3.11
Component / Component unit
Page
Drain engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-2
Cylinder head, cylinder, piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-2
Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-3
Engine sprocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-3
Intake flange, reed valve housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-3
Clutch cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-4
Clutch, primary drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-4
Shift drum locating, kickstart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-5
Parting of engine case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-6
Shift mechanism, transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-6
Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-7
3
1
–
–
–
–
5
Thoroughly clean the engine.
Clamp the engine into the mounting rack.
Remove the kickstarter and the shift lever.
Remove screw 4 and take off wire hanger 5.
4
3
2
3.1 Draining the gear oil
– Twist out the drain plug 1 and drain the gear oil.
1
3.2 Cylinder head, cylinder, piston
2
– Undo the 6 screws 2 and remove the cylinder head together with the gasket.
– Take the O-ring out of the groove in the cylinder.
– Remove the 4 collar nuts 3 at the cylinder base and remove the cylinder.
3
– Cover the crankcase.
– Place the piston onto an appropriate wooden support and remove both piston pin
retainers.
– Press the piston pin out of the piston without applying excessive force. An appropriate mandrel can be used if necessary.
– Remove the piston and take the piston pin bearing out of the conrod eye.
– Remove the cylinder base gaskets.
3.3 Ignition
– Remove 4 screws and take off the ignition cover together with the gasket.
– Hold the rotor with the special tool and undo the hexagon nut.
– Take the hexagon nut and the detent edged ring off the crankshaft.
3
– Twist the rotor extractor into the thread of the rotor (LH thread) and remove the rotor.
– Remove the 3 collar screws 1 and take the stator out of the housing.
– Take the woodruff key out of the crankshaft.
1
3.4 Engine sprocket
– Use a pair of circlip pliers to take the circlip off the countershaft.
– Take the engine sprocket, the distance bushing and the O-ring off the countershaft.
3.5 Reed valve housing, intake flange
2
– Remove 5 screws 2 together with the corrugated washers, remove the intake
flange and the reed valve housing.
3
3.6 Clutch cover
NOTE: THE
FOLLOWING STEP NEED NOT BE PERFORMED UNLESS YOU INTEND TO TAKE THE
CENTRIFUGAL TIMER OUT OF THE CLUTCH COVER.
– Remove the cover 4 of the centrifugal timer together with the seal ring and
undo screw 1.
1
3
4
4
– Remove all screws of the clutch cover, then take off the clutch cover itself.
– Remove the clutch cover gasket and pull the dowels out of the housing.
5
NOTE: THE WATER PUMP COVER 2, THE EXTERIOR CAP 3 AND THE HEXAGON CAP NUT 4
NEED NOT BE REMOVED. THE WATER PUMP AND THE CENTRIFUGAL TIMER ARE LEFT IN THE
CLUTCH COVER.
!
CAUTION
WHEN
!
REMOVING THE CLUTCH COVER MAKE SURE THAT THE ROCKER ARM
EXHAUST CONTROL DOES NOT JAM IN THE HOUSING AND IS NOT DAMAGED.
5
OF THE
2
3
3.7 Clutch, primary drive
6
8
– Undo the 5 screws 6 in diagonal order so as to prevent jamming of the clutch
discs when the springs relax.
– Remove screws, spring retainers and springs.
– Take the pressure cap and the disc package out of the outer clutch hub.
– Pull the thrust bearings out of the main shaft.
–
–
–
–
–
Take the O-ring 8 out of the housing.
Open the lock washer of the inner clutch hub.
Mount the clutch holder on the inner clutch hub and undo the hexagon nut.
Remove the clutch holder.
Take the hexagon nut, the detent edged ring and the inner clutch hub off the
main shaft.
– Take the supporting disc 7 and the outer clutch hub together with the bearing
off the main shaft.
7
– Remove the intermediate starter gear and the stop disc 5 below.
5
3
–
–
–
–
Mount the primary gear holder and undo the hexagon nut (LH thread).
Remove the primary gear holder.
Take the hexagon nut, the detent edged ring and the primary gear off the crankshaft.
Take the woodruff key out of the crankshaft.
3.8 Shift drum locating, kickstarter
– Simply pull the shift shaft out of the housing. Keep in mind the stop disc 1! (It
can be left in the housing).
1
– Carefully unhook the kickstarter spring from bore 2 (pretensioned spring!) and
release it.
– Rotate the kickstarter shaft approximately 1/4 turn counterclockwise and pull it
out of the housing. Keep in mind the stop disc behind!
2
– Undo 3 screws and remove the gear shifting gate 3 together with the ratchet
carrier 4.
3
4
5
– The locking lever 1 need not be removed unless the engine housing is exchanged.
– For this purpose, undo screw 2, then remove the locking lever together with
the spring.
– Take the washer 3 out of the locking drum.
2
3
1
3
6
– Hold the locking drum with the special tool, undo screw 4 and remove the
screw together with the washer.
– Pull the locking drum 5 off the shift roller.
CAUTION
!
!
THE LOCKING DRUM MUST BE HELD WITH THE SPECIAL TOOL TO PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE
BUSHINGS ON THE DRIVING PINS OF THE SHIFT FORKS.
4
5
3.9 Dividing the engine housing
– Swing the ignition side upwards and remove all 12 housing screws.
– Undo the engine mounting device at the mounting rack.
– Lift the left housing half by the lifting points of the housing, using appropriate
tools, or separate it from the right housing half by lightly tapping the countershaft with a plastic hammer.
CAUTION
!
!
TO PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE SEALING SURFACES, DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR SIMILAR
TOOL TO LEVER THE HOUSING HALVES APART!
– Remove the housing half and the gasket.
– Keep in mind the stop disc of the main shaft (can stick to the inside of the housing).
8
6
7
6
3.10 Shift mechanism, transmission
– Pull out the shift rails 6 and swing the shift forks 7 including rollers 9 sideways.
– Pull the shift roller 8 out of the grooved ball bearing.
– Take the shift forks 7 out of the housing.
7
9
7
– Pull the complete main shaft and the countershaft together out of the bearing seats.
3.11 Crankshaft
– Pull the crankshaft out of the bearing seat (if necessary lightly tap it with a plastic
hammer).
3
– Take the distance bushing 1 and the O-ring 2 out of the right crankshaft seal ring.
– Clean all parts. Check for wear and exchange worn components.
2
1
NOTE: ALL GASKETS, SHAFT SEAL RINGS, O-RINGS AND BEARINGS SHOULD BE EXCHANGED ON
THE OCCASION OF EACH COMPLETE ENGINE OVERHAUL.
7
– Notices –
4.0 Servicing on individual components
Chap.
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6
4.7
4.8
4.9
4.10
4.11
4.12
4.13
4.14
4.15
4.16
4.17
4.18
4.19
4.20
4.21
4.22
4.23
4.24
4.25
Component / Component unit
Page
Left housing half . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-2
Right housing half . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-2
Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-3
Piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-4
Piston ring end gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-4
Measuring cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-4
Nikasil coating of cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-4
Exhaust control in cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-5
Preassembly of cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-6
Clutch cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-7
Preassembly of clutch cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-7
Water pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-8
Preassembly of water pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-8
Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-8
Preassembly of kickstarter shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-9
Preassembly of shift shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-9
Shift mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-9
Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-10
Reed valve, intake flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-11
Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-12
Spark plug (NGK R6918B-8/NGK BR8EG) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-12
Checking stator and pulser coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-12
Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-13
Assembly of main shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-13
Assembly of countershaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4-13
Engine housing
NOTE: READ THROUGH THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE COMMENCING WORK. THEN DETERMINE THE ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE SO THAT THE ENGINE
HOUSING HALVES ONLY NEED TO BE HEATED UP ONCE BEFORE REPLACING THE BEARINGS.
HAVING FIRST REMOVED THE DOWELS, IN ORDER TO EXPEL THE BEARINGS OR REMOVE THEM WITH LIGHT MALLET BLOWS, THE HOUSING HALVES MUST
A WOODEN PANEL
IS BEST USED AS A BASE.
BE PLACED ON A SUITABLY LARGE PLANE SURFACE, SUPPORTING THE WHOLE OF THE SEALING SURFACE WITHOUT DAMAGING IT.
BEARINGS OR SHAFT SEAL RINGS SHOULD NOT BE HAMMERED INTO THEIR SEATS. IF NO SUITABLE PRESS IS AVAILABLE, USE A SUITABLE MANDREL AND
HAMMER THEM IN WITH GREAT CARE. COLD BEARINGS WILL PRACTICALLY DROP INTO THEIR SEATS AT AN ENGINE HOUSING TEMPERATURE OF APPROX.
150° C.
AFTER COOLING, SHOULD THE BEARINGS FAIL TO LOCK IN THE BORE, THEY ARE BOUND TO ROTATE AFTER WARMING. IN THAT EVENT THE HOUSING
MUST BE REPLACED.
4
1
4.1 Left housing half
Remove the shaft seal rings and use a hot plate to heat the housing half to a temperature of approximately 150° C.
3
NOTE: AT A TEMPERATURE OF 150° C IT IS USUALLY SUFFICIENT TO TAP THE HOUSING HALF
ONTO A PLANE WOODEN SURFACE AND THE BEARINGS WILL SIMPLY DROP OUT OF THE BEARING SEATS. HOWEVER, IN SOME CASES IT IS NECESSARY TO PRESS THE BEARINGS OUT OF THEIR
SEATS. TO PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE BEARINGS, THE DEVICE USED TO PRESS IN THE NEW
BEARINGS MUST BE DESIGNED IN SUCH A WAY THAT IT TOUCHES ONLY THE OUTER RING OF
THE BEARING.
ROLLER BEARING OR THE CRANKSHAFT 1
Apply a suitable mandrel on the outside to press the roller bearing inwards. Insert
a new roller bearing from the inside and press it all the way into the seat.
1
2
4
4
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE MAIN SHAFT 2
Apply a suitable mandrel on the outside to press the grooved ball bearing inwards.
Insert a new grooved ball bearing from the inside and press it all the way into the seat.
!
CAUTION
!
PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE HOUSING, NEVER APPLY TOO MUCH FORCE WHEN PRESSING
IN GROOVED BALL BEARINGS.
TO
2
5
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE COUNTERSHAFT 3
Apply a suitable mandrel on the outside to press the grooved ball bearing inwards.
Insert a new grooved ball bearing from the inside and press it all the way into the seat.
SHAFT SEAL RING OF THE COUNTERSHAFT 4
Insert a new shaft seal ring from the outside and press it in flush. Do not forget the
stop disc (position it on the grooved ball bearing of the countershaft before mounting).
6
SHAFT SEAL RING OF THE SHIFT SHAFT 5
Insert a new shaft seal ring from the outside and press it in flush.
SHAFT SEAL RING OF THE CRANKSHAFT 6
Insert a new shaft seal ring from the outside and press it in flush
LUBRICATION BORE OF THE CRANKSHAFT ROLLER BEARING S
Check for obstructions and clean the bore with compressed air, if necessary.
S
Check if the oil guiding rubber 7 of the left housing half is correctly mounted (i.e.
with the narrower end of the guide slots facing inwards) and apply a small quantity
of grease to fix it in the housing. Brittle or hard oil guiding tubes must be replaced.
7
4.2 Right housing half
Remove the shaft seal rings and use a hot plate to heat the housing half to a temperature of approximately 150° C.
2
A
4
5
NOTE: AT A TEMPERATURE OF 150° C IT IS USUALLY SUFFICIENT TO TAP THE HOUSING HALF
ONTO A PLANE WOODEN SURFACE AND THE BEARINGS WILL SIMPLY DROP OUT OF THE BEARING SEATS. HOWEVER, IN SOME CASES IT IS NECESSARY TO PRESS THE BEARINGS OUT OF THEIR
SEATS. TO PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE BEARINGS, THE DEVICE USED TO PRESS IN THE NEW
BEARINGS MUST BE DESIGNED IN SUCH A WAY THAT IT TOUCHES ONLY THE OUTER RING OF
THE BEARING.
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE CRANKSHAFT A
Press the old grooved ball bearing inwards from the outside. Insert a new grooved
ball bearing with the open side of the ball cage facing downwards (i.e. towards the
exterior) and press it all the way into the seat.
8
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE MAIN SHAFT 2
Apply a suitable mandrel on the outside to press the grooved ball bearing inwards.
Insert a new grooved ball bearing from the outside and press it in flush (i.e. flush
with the bearing surface of the gear shifting gate 3).
6
9
3
7
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE COUNTERSHAFT 4
Apply a suitable mandrel on the outside to press the old grooved ball bearing
inwards. Insert a new grooved ball bearing from the inside and press it all the way
into the seat.
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE SHIFT ROLLER 5
Apply a suitable mandrel on the outside to press the old grooved ball bearing
inwards. Insert a new grooved ball bearing from the inside and press it all the way
into the seat.
!
CAUTION
!
DO
NOT APPLY EXCESSIVE FORCE WHEN PRESSING THE GROOVED BALL BEARINGS FLUSH WITH
THE COLLAR IN THE HOUSING. THE COLLAR WALL IS VERY THIN AND CAN EASILY BE DAMAGED!
S
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE CENTRIFUGAL TIMER 6
Use an interior extractor and a Ø 6 mm insert to pull the grooved ball bearing out
of the housing. Press a new grooved ball bearing all the way into the seat.
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE WATER PUMP SHAFT 7
Use an interior extractor and a Ø 6 mm insert to pull the grooved ball bearing out
of the housing. Press a new grooved ball bearing all the way into the seat.
KICKSTARTER RELEASE PLATE 8
When exchanging the release plate keep in mind to apply Loctite 242 to both screws.
SHAFT SEAL RING OF THE CRANKSHAFT 9
Insert a new shaft seal ring from the outside and press it in flush, the open side
facing inwards.
Then check the LUBRICATION BORE FOR THE GROOVED BALL BEARING S of the crankshaft
for obstructions.
4.3 Crankshaft
– When replacing the roller bearing, the inner crankshaft ring must also be renewed. Heat the inner ring until it drops out of its seat.
– Before pressing the new inner ring in position, an intermediate plate must always
be placed between the two crank webs. The plate must be such as to be supported on both sides, so that the crankshaft remains free.
– Heat new inner ring to approx. 150° C and press into position. Make sure inner
ring is heated quickly.
!
CAUTION
!
CLAMP THE CRANKSHAFT WITH A STUD OR WEB IN THE VICE, AND NEVER TRY TO
KNOCK THE BEARING INNER RING FREE. THE CRANKSHAFT WEBS MAY BE COM-PRESSED AND
THE CON-ROD PLUG AND BEARING MAY BE DAMAGES, THEREBY MAKING THE CRANKSHAFT
UNUSABLE.
NEVER
NOTE: DISTANCE ADJUSTMENT OF THE MAIN BEARINGS IS NOT REQUESTED.
4
3
4.4 Piston
If a used piston is to remain in service then the following should be checked:
1. PISTON RUNNING SURFACE: Check for pressure marks (seizing marks) minor friction
marks can be removed with a fine abrasive stick.
2. PISTON RING GROOVES: The piston rings must not get jammed in the grooves. For
cleaning the grooves, use an old piston ring or abrasive paper (grain size 400).
3. THE PISTON RING LOCATING PINS must be firmly seated in the piston and must not
be worn out.
4. Check PISTON RINGS for wear and check end gap.
4.5 Piston ring end gap
– Insert pisto ring into the cylinder and adjust. Piston ring must be approx. 10 mm
(0.5 in) from top of cylinder.
– The end gap B can now be checked which a feeler gauge.
4
END GAP MAX. 0.40 MM (0.015 IN)
4
IF THE END GAP IS GREATER CHECK PISTON AND CYLINDER FOR WEAR. IF PISTON AND CYLINDER WEAR ARE WITHIN THE PERMITTED TOLERANCE LIMITS, REPLACE THE PISTON RING.
4.6 Checking cylinder for wear
10mm
Measure diameter of cylinder approx. 10 mm (0.5 in) below top of cylinder edge.
Check diameter in several corresponding places to see if cylinder in worn oval.
Cylinder diameter - piston size
x
y
Cylinder diameter 125
Piston size
54.250 - 54.262 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
54.263 - 54.275 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Cylinder diameter 200
Piston size
64.000 - 64.012 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
64.013 - 64.025 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
If the cylinder diameter is greater than 54.275 mm or 64.025 mm, the Nikasil cylinder must be reconditioned or replaced.
NOTE: FOR
RECONDITIONING OF THE OLD CYLINDER ALL EXHAUST CONTROL COMPONENTS
MUST BE REMOVED.
RECONDITIONED CYLINDERS ARE AVAILABLE ON ORDER FROM YOUR KTM DEALER. THE
PISTON SIZE IS STAMPED INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE PISTON.
4.7 Nikasil coating of cylinder
Nikasil is the brand name for a cylinder coating process, developed by the piston
manufacturer Mahle. The name is derived from the two materials used in this process - a nickel layer into which the particularly hard silicon carbide is inbedded.
The main advantages of the Nikasil coating are:
● excellent heat dissipation and thus better power output
● low wear
● low weight of the cylinder.
NOTE: THE WORN COATING CAN BE REGENERATED AT LOW COST PROVIDED THAT THE CYLINDERS RUNNING SURFACE IS FLAWLESS.
4.8 Exhaust control in the cylinder
– Remove the 6 screws and take off the exhaust flange 1 together with the gasket.
– Undo 2 screws 2 and take the guide plate 3 out of the cylinder.
– Remove 3 collar bushings 4 and the control segment bm. To prevent subsequent
jamming of the exhaust control, do not damage the bearing surfaces of the collar
bushings and the control segment bm.
– Take the three roller guides 4 behind out of the cylinder.
– Pull the two control rollers 5 and the eccentric shaft 6 out of the bores in the
cylinder.
– Undo the screws 7 to the left and to the right and remove them together with
the locking plates 8.
– Twist out the left and the right control flap axles 9.
– Slightly push the control flap bk upwards through the exhaust port. Turn the lifting bolt bl of the control flap a quarter of a full rotation (for this purpose, it is
recommended to twist a M5x40 screw into the thread of the lifting bolt) and pull
it upwards out of the cylinder. Now the control flap can be taken out of the cylinder.
– Clean all parts of the exhaust control and check for wear and damage.
7
CONTROL ROLLERS 5
Check bearing for play.
Check the teeth of the control rollers for wear.
8
9
CONTROL SEGMENT bm
Check the contact surface between the control segment and the roller guides for
grooves and exchange them, if necessary.
13
11
4
5
6
10
3
CONTROL FLAP AXLES 9
Check the control flap axles for wear, especially at the pins.
O-RINGS bn
Check the O-rings of the control flap axles for wear and brittleness and exchange
them, if necessary.
5
ROLLER GUIDES 4
Check the contact surface between the roller guides and the control roller segment
for grooves and exchange them, if necessary.
12
2
1
A
CONTROL FLAP bk
Clean the control flap and check the pins in the control flap for tight fit.
Measure the distance A between the two pins (see illustration).
When mounted, the control flap must not scrape against the exhaust port.
DISTANCE A:
MIN.
5.5 MM (0.22 IN) / MAX. 5.8 MM (0.23 IN)
4
5
4.9 Preassembling the cylinder
7
8
9
13
11
5
4
6
10
3
4
5
12
2
6
14
1
– Insert the control flap bk into the cylinder through the exhaust port.
– Grease O-rings bn and control flap axles 9, especially at the pins, align the control flap bk and mount the left and the right control flap axles without tightening
them yet.
– Thoroughly oil the lifting bolt bl and insert it from above into the bore in the
cylinder. Insert the lifting bolt until it engages in the control flap bk. Then rotate it a quarter of a full turn so that the flat section is perpendicular to the direction of travel and faces forward (in the direction of the exhaust port).
– Insert two feeler gauges of identical thickness (approx. 0.2 mm / 0.008 in)) between the control flap and the cylinder wall at points B. This distance must be
equal on both sides.
– Twist the control flap axles 9 all the way in and then 1/8 of a full turn out again.
– Apply Loctite 242 to two screws 7 and use them to fix the two locking plates 8,
thereby taking care to turn the control flap axles 9 as little as possible.
– Remove the two feeler gauges and check control flap for easy operation.
– Thoroughly oil the control rollers 5 and insert them into the bores in the cylinder. Insert the control roller with one mark on the left and the control roller with
2 marks on the right side.
– Thoroughly oil the eccentric shaft 6 of the control flap and mount it in the cylinder.
Move the control flap up and down. The eccentric shaft should move with the
control flap.
– Grease the pins in the cylinder and mount the 3 roller guides 4 with the large
collar facing the cylinder.
– Turn the control rollers and the adjusting roller of the control flap so that the
marks are on the outside (facing the control segment).
– Mount the control segment bm in such a way that the marks on the control rollers coincide with those of the control segment (see illustration).
NOTE: WHEN ALL MARKS ARE ALIGNED, THE CONTROL FLAP MUST BE IN THE BOTTOM POSITION AND THE BORES OF THE CONTROL ROLLERS MUST BE COMPLETELY CLOSED.
– Mount three roller guides 4 with the small collar facing the cylinder.
ca. 0,20 mm
0.008 in
B
ca. 0,20 mm
0.008 in
B
11
A
– Mount the guide plate 3, apply Loctite 242 to two screws 2 and use them to
fix the guide plate in the cylinder.
– Turn the control segment clockwise. The control flap must open and the bores
of the control rollers must be opened.
– Apply a thin silicone coat on the flange facing A of the cylinder and mount a
new gasket.
– Apply a thin silicone coat to the flange facing of the cover and fix the cover with
the six screws. Don’t forget the 2 brackets for the exhaust springs bo.
– Check exhaust control for easy operation.
4.10 Clutch cover
1
1
– Remove the 2 screws of the water pump cover and take off the water pump
cover.
– Pull the water pump and the O-ring out of the clutch cover.
– Undo 2 screws 1 and remove the closure cap 2 together with the gasket and
the copper seal rings.
– Press the grooved ball bearing 3 below out of the clutch cover. For this purpose,
push the rocker arm 4 of the centrifugal timer forward (in the direction of the
grooved ball bearing).
– Turn the adjusting lever 5 so that it rests against the clutch cover (see illustration).
– Undo the screw 6 and pull the rocker arm 4 off the adjusting lever 5.
– Undo the collar screw 7 of the centrifugal timer and pull the centrifugal timer
inwards out of the clutch cover.
– Pull the adjusting lever 5 out of the clutch cover.
– Clean all parts and check for wear.
5
ADJUSTING LEVER 5
Check the pins of the adjusting lever for wear. Check the bearing surface between
the adjusting lever and the needle bushing for wear.
GROOVED BALL BEARING 3
Check for wear.
NEEDLE BUSHING OF THE ADJUSTING LEVER 9
The bearing bushing of the adjusting lever normally shows no signs of wear. If this
is nevertheless the case, it is recommended to replace the entire clutch cover.
7
8
9
3
6
SHAFT SEAL RING OF THE KICKSTARTER SHAFT 8
Lever the used shaft seal ring out of the clutch cover with a screwdriver.
Grease the new shaft seal ring and insert it with the open side facing inwards. Press
it in flush.
5
4
2
4.11 Preassembling the clutch cover
– Grease the bearing 9 of the adjusting lever, insert the adjusting lever 5 into the
clutch cover and let it rest against the clutch cover (see illustration).
– Fix the centrifugal timer with the screw in the clutch cover. Secure the screw
with Loctite 242.
NOTE: THE SCREW 7 IS TIGHTENED AFTER MOUNTING THE CLUTCH COVER.
A
– Hook the pins of the adjusting lever into the track of the centrifugal timer.
– Mount the rocker arm 4 on the adjusting lever 5 and fix it with a screw.
– Insert the grooved ball bearing with the open side of the cage facing inwards into
the clutch cover.
– Mount the cover 2 with a new gasket and new copper gaskets.
CAUTION
!
!
WHEN ASSEMBLING THE CLUTCH COVER MAKE SURE THAT THE FLAT SECTION A IS CORRECTLY ALIGNED TO PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE CLUTCH COVER.
4
7
– Insert the preassembled water pump (see chapter 4.13) and the new O-ring into
the clutch cover.
– Fix the water pump cover with 2 short screws.
4.12 Water pump
– Clamp the water pump with the water pump wheel facing upwards into the vise
(use protective jaws).
4
!
CAUTION
!
PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE WATER PUMP DRIVING WHEEL, NEVER CLAMP THE WATER
PUMP DRIVING WHEEL ITSELF INTO THE VISE.
TO
8
– Remove collar screw 1 together with the washer and pull the water pump
wheel 2 upwards off the water pump shaft 3.
– Take the water pump shaft out of the vise and pull the water pump shaft out of
the water pump housing 4.
1
SHAFT SEAL RING OF THE WATER PUMP SHAFT 5
Use a screwdriver to lever the shaft seal ring out of the water pump housing.
Apply Loctite 648 to the outside of the new shaft seal ring and press it into the housing with the label facing inwards.
2
5
4
6
3
7
GROOVED BALL BEARING OF THE WATER PUMP SHAFT 6
The shaft seal ring 5 must be removed to exchange the grooved ball bearing. Use an
appropriate mandrel to press the grooved ball bearing out of the water pump housing.
Press a new grooved ball bearing all the way into the seat. Apply Loctite 648 to the
outside of a new water pump shaft seal ring and insert it with the label facing
inwards.
WATER PUMP DRIVING WHEEL 7
The water pump driving wheel should not turn on the water pump shaft.
Check the teeth of the water pump driving wheel for wear.
4.13 Preassembling the water pump
– Grease the shaft seal ring 5 and the grooved ball bearing 6 of the water pump
shaft and insert the water pump shaft into the water pump housing 4.
– Clamp the water pump shaft into the vise.
!
CAUTION
!
PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE WATER PUMP DRIVING WHEEL, NEVER CLAMP THE WATER
PUMP DRIVING WHEEL ITSELF INTO THE VISE.
TO
– Put the water pump wheel 2 on the shaft, apply Loctite 242 to the screw 1
and mount screw and washer.
4.14 Kickstarter
KICKSTARTER GEAR 7
Check the bearing for play and grooves.
7
INTERMEDIATE KICKSTARTER GEAR 8
Check the bearing for play and grooves.
10
9
8
LOCKING PAWL 9
Check for wear and damage.
KICKSTARTER SHAFT bk
Check for wear and damage, paying particular attention to pivot points and teeth.
Check the lubrication bores for free passage.
4.15 Preassembling the kickstarter shaft
– Mount the locking pawl on the kickstarter shaft. Ensure that the mark B on the
locking pawl coincides with the bore C in the kickstarter shaft.
– Clamp the kickstarter shaft into the vise (use protective jaws) with the teethed
end facing upwards.
– Mount the stop disc (17x24x1 mm) and the kickstarter gear with the ratchet
teeth facing downwards.
– Put the stop disc (17x24x1 mm) on the shaft.
– Mount the circlip with the sharp edge facing upwards.
– Mount the kickstarter spring; insert the inner end of the kickstarter spring into
the bore of the kickstarter shaft.
– Mount the driving hub; the slot must be positioned above the inner end of the
kickstarter spring.
– Take the kickstarter shaft out of the vise.
– Mount the ratchet gear spring and the stop disc on the kickstarter shaft.
C
4
9
B
4.16 Preassembling the shift shaft
– Mount the return spring on the shift shaft; the two legs of the spring must rest
against bracket A of the shift shaft.
– Put the disc (14,3x20x1 mm) on the shaft, then mount the circlip with the sharp
edge facing upwards in the groove of the shift shaft.
– Put on the disc (14,3x20x1 mm).
A
4.17 Shift mechanism
SHIFT FORKS 1
Check the blade D for wear. The sleeves E on the driving pin for the shift shaft
must be free of pressure marks.
SHIFT ROLLER 2
Check the shift grooves F for wear.
Ensure that the shift roller rests properly in the grooved ball bearing bl.
3
RATCHETS 3
Check the ratchets at the contact surface between the ratchtes and the locking drum.
GROOVED BALL BEARING bl
Check for smooth operation.
D
1
11
2
F
E
2
7
6
6
5
4
9
A
C
10
8
4
0
12
1
11
2
4.18 Clutch
The following parts must be checked for wear:
THRUST BEARING 1
PUSH ROD 2
CLUTCH SPRINGS 4
Minimum length 38 mm (1.496 in) (new 39 mm / 1.535 in); if necessary exchange all 5 springs.
7 LINING DISCS 5
Minimum thickness: 2.9 mm (0.114 in) (new 3,0 mm / 0.118 in). Discs must be
plane.
4 CLUTCH DISCS - ALUMINIUM 6
Discs must be plane; check for mechanical damage.
2 CLUTCH DISCS - STEEL 7
Discs must be plane; check for mechanical damage.
INNER CLUTCH HUB 8
Check the bearing surface of the lining disc for damage.
Check the bearing surfaces A of the steel discs at the inner clutch hub. If the grooves are deeper than 0.5 mm (0.02 in) replace the inner clutch hub.
PRESSURE CAP 9
Check the bearing surface C of the lining disc for damage.
OUTER CLUTCH HUB bk
Check the stop faces of the lining discs for wear. The outer clutch hub must be
replaced if the grooves are more than 0.5 mm (0.02 in) deep (see below).
Mount the inner ring bl and the needle cage bm and check for play.
4.19 Reed valve housing, intake flange
NOTE: THE REED PADDLES A SLOWLY LOSE THEIR TENSION DURING OPERATION, THUS REDUCING THE OVERALL PERFORMANCE. DAMAGED OR WORN REED PADDLES MUST THEREFORE BE
REPLACED.
THE ENTIRE REED VALVE HOUSING MUST BE EXCHANGED IF THE SEALING SURFACES OF THE
REED VALVE HOUSING B ARE ALSO DAMAGED.
CAUTION
!
!
WHEN MOUNTING THE REED VALVE HOUSING BE SURE TO APPLY LOCTITE 242 TO ALL SCREWS.
VELOCITY INSERT C
Check for tight fit and damage.
INTAKE FLANGE D
Check for cracks and other damage.
4
C
11
D
A
B
M
– Measure distance M between the stop plates with a sliding gauge.
DISTANCE M = 28 MM (1.1 IN)
4.20 Ignition
General information
The measurements described below will only reveal severe problems. Coil short circuits leading to weak ignition sparks or low generator output, respectively, can only
be detected with the help of an ignition test bench. In the case of malfunction
always check the cables and the plug and socket connections of the ignition system
first.
Make sure to select the correct measuring range when performing measurements.
LOCTITE 242
4.21 Spark plug (125: NGK R6918-B8/200: NGK BR8EG)
ELECTRODE DISTANCE: 0.60 MM (0.024 IN)
2K-1
INSULATOR
Check for cracks and fissures.
!
LOCTITE 242
4
2K-2
2
CAUTION
!
ALWAYS USE A SPARK PLUG WITH RESISTOR. OTHERWISE PROBLEMS CAN OCCUR IN THE CDI
UNIT.
LOCTITE 242
2K-3
4.22 Check stator and pulse generator
Kokusan 2K-1
Kokusan 2K-2
Kokusan 2K-3
Use an ohmmeter to perform the following measurements:
IGNITION
MEASURE
CABLE COLOURS
RESISTANCE
2K-1
Pulser coil
Exciter
red – green
black/red – red/white
100 Ω 20%
24,8 Ω 20%
2K-2
Pulser coil
Exciter
Charge coil
red – green
black/red – red/white
ground – yellow
100 Ω 20%
24,8 Ω 20%
0,74 Ω 20%
2K-3
Pulser coil
Exciter
Charge coil
red – green
black/red– red/white
ground – yellow
white – yellow
100 Ω 20%
12,7 Ω 20%
0,65 Ω 20%
0,16 Ω 20%
NOTE: THE MEASURING MUST BE PERFORMED AT A TEMPERATURE OF 20° C. OTHERWISE SIGNIFICANT DEVIATIONS MUST BE EXPECTED.
REPLACE THE STATOR AND/OR THE PULSE GENERATOR IF THE MEASURED VALUES DEVIATE SIGNIFICANTLY FROM THE SETPOINT VALUES.
4.23 Transmission
Clamp the main shaft or counter shaft, respectively, into the vise (use protective jaws). Remove the
gears and check the following parts for wear and grooves:
A) BEARING SLEEVES
B) PIVOT POINTS OF THE MAIN SHAFT AND COUNTERSHAFT AND PIVOT POINTS OF THE IDLER GEARS
C) SHIFT DOGS OF THE GEARS
D) TOOTH FACES OF ALL GEARS
E) TOOTH PROFILES OF THE MAIN SHAFT AND COUNTERSHAFT AS WELL AS OF THE CORRESPONDING GEARS
F) CHECK THE PROFILES OF ALL CONTROL GEARS FOR SMOOTH OPERATION
– Thoroughly clean all parts, exchange damaged components.
– New axial securing elements should be mounted whenever repair work is performed.
4
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
4.24 Assembling the main shaft
– Clamp the main shaft into a vise (use protective jaws) with the toothed end facing downwards.
– Carefully grease all parts before mounting them.
– Mount the bearing sleeve 1 on the main shaft. Then put the 5th idler gear 2 on the shaft with the
shifting claws facing upwards.
– Put the stop disc 3 (22.2x27.8x1 mm) onto the shaft and mount the axial securing element 4.
– Mount the 3rd/4th sliding gear 5 with the small gear facing downwards and mount the axial securing element 6.
– Put the stop disc with the internal teeth 7 (22.2x27.8x1 mm) onto the shaft.
– Mount the bearing sleeve 8 and the 6th idler gear 9 with the recess for the shifting claws facing
downwards.
– Mount the 2nd fixed gear bk and the stop disc bl (17.2x26x1 mm).
– Then check all gears for smooth operation.
18
17
16 15
14
13 12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
4.25 Assembling the countershaft
– Clamp the countershaft into the vise (use protective jaws!) with the toothed end facing downwards.
– All parts must be carefully greased before mounting.
– Mount the bearing sleeve 1 and the 2nd idler gear 2 with the recess for the shifting claws facing
upwards.
– Mount the stop disc 3 (25.2x32x1 mm) with the internal teeth and the axial securing element
4 on the countershaft.
– Mount the 6th idler gear 5 with the shift groove facing upwards, then mount the stop disc 6
(22.2x28x1 mm).
– Mount the bearing sleeve 7, the 4th idler gear 8 and the stop disc 9 (22.2x30x2.5 mm).
– Mount the bearing sleeve bk, the 3rd idler gear bl, the stop disc bm (22.2x27.8x1 mm) with internal teeth and the axial securing element bn.
– Mount the 5th sliding gear bo with the shift groove facing downwards and the stop disc bp (17.2x
26x1 mm).
– Mount the bearing sleeve bq, the 1st idler gear br with the collar facing upwards and the stop disc bs
(17.2x26x1 mm).
13
– Notices –
5.0 Engine assembly
Cap.
Component / Component unit
Page
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10
5.11
5.12
5.13
5.14
5.15
5.16
5.17
5.18
Mounting crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-2
Transmission, shift mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-2
Assembly of engine housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-3
Engine sprocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-3
Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-3
Shift system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-3
Kickstarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-4
Primary drive, clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-5
Clutch discs, pressure cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-6
Clutch cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-6
Intake flange, reed valve housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-7
Piston, cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-7
Adjust dimension „X“ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-7
Adjust control flap (dimension „Z“) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-7
Cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-9
Ignition cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-9
Filling with gear oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-9
Measuring dimension „Y“ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-10
5
1
– Clamp the right housing half onto the mounting rack.
5.1 Mounting the crankshaft
– Oil the grooved ball bearing of the crankshaft.
– Insert the crankshaft into the grooved ball bearing from above and carefully push
it as far as it will go.
CAUTION
!
!
THE CONROD MUST BE DIRECTED TOWARDS THE CYLINDER WHEN THE CRANKSHAFT IS INSERTED!
5.2 Transmission, shift mechanism
– Mount the stop disc at the bottom of the countershaft and fix it with grease to
prevent it from slipping off the shaft.
– Align the teeth of the main shaft and the countershaft and insert both shafts
together into the bearing seats.
5
2
– Grease the driving pins of the shift forks and mount the rollers 1.
1
– Oil the blades of the shift forks and hook them into the sliding gears.
– Insert the shift roller into the bearing seat and hook the shift forks into the shift roller.
– Oil the shift rails and insert them into the shift forks (short rail facing the main shaft).
1
50
M6x...
55
50
55
50
–
–
–
–
–
–
–
50
50
55
5.3 Assembling the housing
50
55
55
–
–
Remove the engine holder at the mounting rack.
Make sure that both dowels are properly located in the right housing half.
Slightly grease the sealing surface of the housing and mount a new gasket.
Make sure that the rubber is properly inserted into the left housing half and that
the sleeves have not slipped off the driving pins of the shift forks.
Grease the shaft seal rings of the left housing half and put on the left housing half.
Check the housing gasket for proper fit.
Grease the threaded sections and the contact surfaces at the heads of the housing screws. Insert the screws and assemble the housing (screw lengths are indicated in the illustration).
Before and after tightening the housing screws with 8 Nm (6 ft.lb.) check all
shafts for easy operation.
Fix the engine on the mounting rack.
5.4 Engine sprocket
– Oil the O-ring (≠ 1.78 mm) and put it on the countershaft.
– Mount the distance bushing 3 in such a way that the O-ring is located in the
chamfer.
– Put the chain sprocket onto the countershaft with the collar facing inwards and
fix it with the circlip (sharp edge outwards).
– Tap the chain sprocket with a hollow mandrel or a similar tool to slightly pretension the O-ring and to press the circlip into the groove.
3
5.5 Ignition system
B
– Insert the woodruff key into the crankshaft.
– Fix the stator in the housing with the 3 screws without yet tightening the screws.
– Turn the stator so that mark of the stator coincides with the middle mark of the
housing. Then tighten all three screws of the stator.
LEFT MARKING A BELONGS TO THE IGNITION SYSTEMS
RIGHT MARKING B BELONGS TO THE IGNITION SYSTEM 2K-3.
NOTE: THE
A
2K-1
AND
2K-2. THE
– Insert the cable guide into the housing.
5
3
– Mount the rotor.
– Mount the detent edged ring and the nut.
– Hold the rotor with the holding spanner and tighten the hexagon nut with
60 Nm / 44 ft.lb.).
5.6 Shift drum locating device
2
1
– Mount the locking drum 1 on the shift roller. Keep in mind that the pin of the
shift roller must engage in the corresponding recess of the locking drum.
– Mount screw 2. Hold the locking drum with the special tool and tighten the
screw.
!
!
THE LOCKING DRUM MUST BE HELD WITH THE SPECIAL TOOL TO PREVENT DAMAGING OF THE
CAUTION
BUSHINGS ON THE DRIVING PINS OF THE SHIFT FORKS
NOTE: IF THE LOCKING LEVER HASN’T BEEN REMOVED, PUSH IT SIDEWAYS AGAINST THE RESISTANCE OF THE SPRING WHEN MOUNTING THE LOCKING DRUM.
– Mount washer 3.
– Line the washer, the locking lever, the collar bushing (the small collar facing the
head of the screw) and the locking spring upon screw 4. Hook the end D of
the locking spring into the locking lever.
– Apply Loctite 242 to screw 4 and use it to fix the locking lever. Make sure that
the other end of the locking spring rests against the housing bracket C.
4
3
D
C
– Insert the ratchet carrier 5 into the gear shifting gate as shown in the illustration.
– Use a small quantity of grease to fix the collar bushing 6 on the ratchet carrier.
5
6
5
4
2
– Mount the ratchet carrier together with the gear shifting gate in the housing. The ratchets 1 must be slightly squeezed to insert the ratchet carrier into the locking drum.
– Fix the gear shifting gate with three screws 2 on the housing.
1
1
– Grease the shaft seal ring of the shift shaft.
– Oil the shift shaft and insert it into the housing. Do not forget the stop disc!
When mounting the shift shaft make sure that both legs of the return spring rest
against the prolongation of the shift rail 3.
3
5.7 Kickstarter
A
– Grease the bearing bore of the kickstarter shaft in the housing.
– Insert the preassembled kickstarter shaft into the housing so that the locking
pawl is located on the kickstarter shaft behind the release plate in the housing.
– Pretension the kickstarter spring clockwise and hook it into the corresponding
bore in the housing A.
5.8 Primary drive, clutch
– Grease the shaft seal ring of the crankshaft.
– Put the oiled O-ring (25x2 mm) onto the crankshaft and mount the distance bushing with the chamfer facing the crank web so that the O-ring is located in the
chamfer.
– Insert the woodruff key into the crankshaft.
– Put the primary gear onto the crankshaft with the collar facing the housing.
– Mount a new detent edged ring and a hexagon nut (LH thread).
– Mount the holding spanner for the primary gear and tighten the hexagon nut
with 180 Nm (133 ft.lb.).
5
– Put the stop disc (17.2x26x1 mm) and the intermediate starter gear 4 onto the
countershaft.
– Oil the bearing of the outer clutch hub 5 and put it onto the main shaft.
5
4
5
– Mount the outer clutch hub and the supporting disc (20x39.6x3 mm) on the
main shaft.
1
– Mount the inner clutch hub, a new lock washer and the hexagon nut on the
main shaft.
– Mount the clutch holder 1 and tighten the hexagon nut with 120 Nm (88 ft.lb.).
– Remove the clutch holder and secure the hexagon nut by bending the two
brackets of the lock washer upwards.
– The bracket of the lock washer that meshes with the inner clutch hub must be
carefully hammered down after tightening the hexagon nut to make sure that it
rests properly against the inner clutch hub.
5.9 Clutch discs, pressure cap
– Oil the thrust bearing and insert it into the main shaft.
– Properly oil the lining discs before mounting them.
NOTE: THESE ENGINES HAVE 4 CLUTCH DISCS OF ALUMINUM AND 2 CLUTCH DISCS OF STEEL.
THESE MUST BE MOUNTED IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER:
1 lining disc
1 lining disc
1 lining disc
1 lining disc
1 lining disc
1 lining disc
1 lining disc
aluminium
steel
aluminium
1 clutch disc (aluminum)
1 clutch disc (aluminum)
1 clutch disc (steel)
1 clutch disc (steel)
1 clutch disc (aluminum)
1 clutch disc (aluminum)
– One of the lining discs must be on top.
– Mount the pressure cap, then the clutch springs, the spring retainers and the
collar screws.
– Tighten the collar screws crosswise. Apply a maximum of 6 Nm (4.5 ft.lb.) to
prevent damaging of the threads in the inner clutch hub.
5
6
5.10 Clutch cover
– Check if both dowels have been mounted in the engine housing.
– Grease the shaft seal ring of the kickstarter shaft and fix the clutch cover gasket
with a small quantity of grease.
– Fix the O-ring 2 in the housing with a small quantity of grease.
– Carefully mount the preassembled clutch cover and press it on. Slightly rotate
the crankshaft so that the centrifugal timer and the water pump can mesh with
the primary gear.
– Mount the collar screws (screw lengths indicated in the illustration) and tighten
with 8 Nm (6 ft.lb.).
– Check all shafts for smooth operation.
2
35
35
40
35
35
M6x...
55
40
40
35
35
55
35
– Tighten the collar screw 1 of the centrifugal timer.
1
5.11 Reed valve housing, intake flange
– Cut off protruding sections of the housing gasket in the vicinity of the intake flange and the cylinder flange.
– Mount the reed valve housing and the intake flange and fix with 5 collar screws
and corrugated washers.
– Close the intake flange with a clean cloth or an appropriate plug.
5.12 Piston, cylinder
– Carefully oil the sliding points of all components before mounting.
– Insert the needle bearing into the conrod eye, mount the piston (the arrow on
the piston head indicates the direction of the exhaust port).
– Mount the piston pin and the wire circlips with the open side facing downwards
(see illustration).
– Mount the cylinder base gaskets (recommended gasket thickness: approx. 0.60
mm / 0.024 in).
– Place the piston on a self-made wooden mounting device and align the piston rings.
5
7
Mount the preassembled cylinder, remove the mounting device and clamp the
cylinder crosswise down with two collar nuts.
!
CAUTION
!
MOUNTING THE CYLINDER MAKE SURE THAT THE ROCKER ARM 1 OF THE CENTRIFUGAL TIMER IS LOCATED IN THE CORRESPONDING RECESS 2 OF THE CONTROL SEGMENT IN THE
CYLINDER. IF NECESSARY REMOVE THE SMALL CAP ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CYLINDER AND CHECK.
WHEN
1
2
5.13 Adjusting dimension „X“
NOTE: DIMENSION „X“ IS THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE UPPER PISTON EDGE AND THE OFFSET
UPPER CYLINDER EDGE WITH THE CYLINDER CLAMPED DOWN AND THE PISTON IN POSITION TDC.
DIMENSION „X“ MUST BE ADJUSTED PARTICULARLY CAREFULLY BY INSERTING CYLINDER BASE
GASKETS OF DIFFERENT THICKNESSES.
CAUTION
!
!
IF DIMENSION „X“ IS TOO LARGE, THE COMPRESSION VALUE WILL DECREASE, THUS REDUCING
THE OVERALL ENGINE OUTPUT. IF DIMENSION „X“ IS TOO SMALL, THE ENGINE WILL „PINK“
AND OVERHEAT.
– Position the sliding gauge on the cylinder and turn the piston to TDC by turning
the flywheel. Read the value indicated by the sliding gauge.
X
125 CCM: DIMENSION „X“ = 0.60 MM (0.024 IN)
200 CCM: DIMENSION „X“ = 0.55 MM (0.022 IN)
– Adjust dimension „X“ by adding or removing cylinder base gaskets.
5
NOTE: ADDING OF CYLINDER BASE GASKETS INCREASES AND REMOVING CYLINDER BASE GASKETS REDUCES DIMENSION „X“.
8
– Mount the two remaining collar nuts at the cylinder base and tighten all 4 collar
nuts with 30 Nm (22 ft.lb.).
5.14 Adjusting the control flap (dimension „Z“)
NOTE: DIMENSION „Z“ IS THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE LOWER EDGE OF THE CONTROL FLAP
AND THE UPPER EDGE OF THE CYLINDER, MEASURED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE EXHAUST PORT.
125 CCM: Z = 42.0 MM + 0.2 / - 0.6 MM
200 CCM: Z = 46.0 MM + 0.2 / - 0.6 MM
1
125 CCM: Z = 1.65 IN + 0.008 / - 0.024 IN
200 CCM: Z = 1.81 IN + 0.008 / - 0.024 IN
–
–
–
–
3
Twist out the locking screw 3.
Adjust the depth gauge to the indicated value and fix it in this position.
Insert the depth gauge into the cylinder.
Turn the bearing carrier 1 at the clutch cover so that the control flap rests
against the depth gauge.
Z
– Mount the locking screw 3.
– Mount the hexagon cap nut 4 of the centrifugal timer together with the seal ring.
!
WHEN
CAUTION
!
MOUNTING THE HEXAGON CAP NUT MAKE SURE THAT THE BEARING CARRIER OF THE
CENTRIFUGAL TIMER IS NOT TURNED ANY MORE. OTHERWISE DIMENSION „Z“ MUST BE ADJUSTED ONCE AGAIN.
4
3
5.15 Cylinder head
– Clean the sealing surfaces of the cylinder and the cylinder head.
– Insert a new O-ring into the corresponding groove of the cylinder and mount a
new cylinder head gasket.
– Mount the cylinder head with the water nozzle facing the exhaust side and
slightly turn it back and forth to prevent crushing of the O-ring.
– Mount the collar screws with new copper gaskets and tighten them crosswise,
taking 3 turns to achieve the total tightening torque of 18 Nm (13 ft.lb.).
– Initially, the screws should only be tightened until the first slight resistance is felt.
– Insert the spark plug and tighten with 20 Nm (15 ft.lb.).
5.16 Ignition cover
– Apply silicone to several points of the gasket to fix it in the ignition cover.
– Fix the ignition cover with 4 collar screws.
5
9
– Use the collar screw to mount the wire bracket for the carburetor air hoses on
the housing.
5.17 Filling in the gear oil
– Remove the plug at the clutch cover and fill in 0.7 l engine oil (20W-40).
– Mount the plug and check the engine for leaks.
NOTE: IF
YOUR ENGINE HAS A HYDRAULICALLY OPERATED CLUTCH, IT IS RECOMMENDED TO
FILL IN GEAR OIL ONLY AFTER INSTALLATION OF THE ENGINE AND MOUNTING OF THE DRIVING
CYLINDER OF THE CLUTCH.
OTHERWISE THE OIL WILL FLOW OUT THROUGH THE HOLLOW MAIN SHAFT AS SOON AS THE
ENGINE IS TILTED.
5.18 Measuring dimension „Y“
– Swing the ignition side up.
– Oil the push rod and push it into the main shaft as far as it will go.
– Then use a sliding gauge to measure the distance between the bearing surface of
the driving cylinder of the clutch and the push rod.
– Write down dimension „Y“ and use an appropriate gasket (see table) when
mounting the driving cylinder of the clutch.
NOTE: THE
GASKET OF THE DRIVING CYLINDER OF THE CLUTCH MUST BE APPROPRIATELY
THICK TO ENSURE SMOOTH CLUTCH RELEASE. FOR THIS PURPOSE MEASURE DIMENSION „Y“.
Dimension „Y“
2.5 - 2.8 mm (0.1 - 0.11 in)
2.8 - 3.0 mm (0.1 - 0.11 in)
3.0 - 3.3 mm (0.1 - 0.11 in)
5
0
„Y“
– Mount kickstart and shift lever.
Gasket thickness
0.75 mm (0.03 in)
0.50 mm (0.02 in)
0.30 mm (0.012 in)
6.0 Electrical
Cap.
Component / Component unit
Page
6.1
Checking voltage regulator-rectifier (Shindengen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-2
6.2
Checking voltage regulator (Kokusan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-2
6.3
Checking capacitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-2
6.4
Ignition coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6-2
Wiring diagramms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Cap. 9
6
1
6.1 Checking the voltage regulator-rectifier (Shindengen)
– Start the engine and switch on the low beam.
– Connect a voltmeter to the two terminals of the capacitor (red/white cable =
positive, brown cable = negative).
– Accelerate the engine to a speed of 5000 r.p.m. and read off the voltage.
NOMINAL VALUE: 14.0 - 15.0 V
In the case of a significant deviation from the nominal value:
– Check the capacitor
– Check the connector between the stator and the voltage regulator-rectifier and
the connector between the voltage regulator-rectifier and the cable tree.
– Check the stator.
– Replace the voltage regulator-rectifier.
6.2 Checking the voltage regulator (Kokusan)
A defect voltage regulator can cause different kinds of trouble:
● NO VOLTAGE IN THE CIRCUIT
In this case, the voltage regulator must be disconnected at idle speed. The voltage regulator is defect if the power consumers now work properly.
If the power consumers are still not supplied with power, the switch, the wiring
harness or the ignition system must be checked for defects.
● EXCESSIVE VOLTAGE IN THE CIRCUIT
The bulbs burn out. In this case the voltage regulator must be replaced.
6
6.3 Checking the capacitor
– Discharge the capacitor by bridging the two terminals with a screwdriver and
remove.
– Connect the negative pole of a 12V battery with the negative terminal of the
capacitor. The connection between the positive pole of the battery and the positive terminal of the capacitor (marked +) is made with a test lamp 3.
– When the power circuit is closed, the test lamp must begin to light up. As capacitor charging increases, the brightness of the test lamp must decrease.
– The test lamp must go out after 0,5-2 seconds (depending on the lamp capacity).
– If the test lamp does not go out or does not light up at all, the capacitor is faulty.
2
CAUTION
!
!
DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR BEFORE AND AFTER EACH TEST.
WHEN INSTALLING THE CAPACITOR, MAKE SURE THAT THE TERMINALS ARE CONNECTED
ACCORDANCE WITH THEIR MARKINGS (CONNECT RED/WHITE CABLE TO + TERMINAL)
IN
3
6.4 Ignition coil
– Disconnect all cables and remove the spark plug connector.
– Use an ohmmeter to measure the following values.
MEASUREMENT
CABLE COLOURS
RESISTANCE
primary coil
blue/white – ground
0,425 – 0,575 Ω
secondary coil
blue/white – ignition wire
10,8 – 16,2 kΩ
NOTE: THE INDICATED SETPOINT VALUES CORRESPOND TO A TEMPERATURE OF 20° C.
REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL IF THE MEASURED VALUES DEVIATE SIGNIFICANTLY FROM THE SETPOINT VALUES.
7.0 Trouble shooting
Cap.
Component / Component unit
Page
7.1
Trouble shooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-2
7
1
7.1 TROUBLE SHOOTING
If you let the specified maintenance work on your motorcycle be carried out, disturbances can hardly be expected. Should an error occur nevertheless, we advise you to use the trouble shooting chart in order to find the cause of error.
TROUBLE
Engine fails to start
7
2
Engine without idle running
Engine has not enough power
CAUSE
REMEDY
Operating error
Open fuel tap, switch o ignition, replenish fuel, do not use choke
Fuel supply interrupted
Close fuel tap, loosen fuel hose at carburettor, lead into a basin and
open fuel tap,
– if fuel leaks out, clean carburettor
– if no fuel leaks out, check tank ventilation, i.e. clean fuel tap
Electrode distance too great
Reduce electrode distance (0.60 mm)
Plug fouled by oil, wet or bridged
Clean spark plug or renew
Ignition wire or spark plug connector
damaged
Dismount spark plug, connect ignition cable, hold to ground (blank
place on engine) and actuate kickstarter, a strong spark must be produced at the spark plug
– If no spark is produced, loosen spark plug cap from ignition cable,
hold about 5 mm from ground and actuate kickstarter
– If a spark now occurs, replace spark plug cap
– If no spark is produced, control ignition system
Kill button wire or
short-circuit switch faulty
Disconnect yellow-black coloured cable from CDI and check ignition spark. If the spark is O.K. repair defective part of cable, ignition
lock or ignition switch
Loose ignition cable connectors
Inspect cable connectors
Spark too weak
Examine ignition system
Water in the carburetor and jets
blocked
Dismantle and clean carburetor
Idle adjusting screw out of adjustment
Readjust idle running or replace idle adjusting screw
Ignition system damaged
Examine ignition system
Wear
Overhaul engine
Charred glass fiber yarn in silencer
Renew filling
Air filter obstructed
Clean or renew airfilter
Control flap does not work
Check control flap, joint rod and centrifugal timer
Fuel supply partly interrupted or
blocked
Blow through fuel pipe and clean carburetor
Loss of compression through loose
spark plug
Tighten spark plug
Exhaust system damaged
Check exhaust system for damage
Engine has not enough preignition
Check and adjust ignition
TROUBLE
CAUSE
Engine has not enough power
Engine revs not high and running with four stroke cycle
High rpm misfiring
Engine spluters into the carburetor
Engine overheating
Emission
(steam)
of
white
smoke
Excessive oil escapes from
transmission breather tube
All switched on lamps blown
out
REMEDY
Reed paddles tensionless or damaged,
surface of reed valve housing damaged
Replace reed paddles or reed valve housing
Wear
Overhaul engine
Electronical ignition timing faulty
Have ignition system checked
Carburetor overflows if level adjust too
high, float needle seating is dirty or
enlarged
Clean carburetor, if necessary replace float needle and adjust level
Loose carburetor jets
Tighten jets
Incorrect heat range spark plug or
low quality spark plug
Refer to technical data section
Incorrect or faulty spark plug connector
Test and/or replace spark plug connectors correct type
Loose, corroded or non conductive
ignition socket connector
Check and seal with silicon
Lack of fuel
Clean fuel pipes, examine tank aeration and clean
Spark plug with incorrect heat value
(Ignition by incandescence)
Fit correct spark plug
Engine takes air out of control
Check intake flange and carburettor if firmly setted
Insufficient liquid in cooling system
Top up coolant and bleed cooling system check cooling system for
leaks
Cooling system not or insufficiently
bleeded
Bleed cooling system (see operating instructions)
Radiator fins clogged
Clean radiatar fins with water jet
Frothing in cooling system
Renew coolant using branded anti-freeze/anti-corrosive
Pinched or kinked water hoses
Replace with correct routed hoses
Incorrect ignition timing because of
loose stator screws
Readjust to correct ignition timing specifications, secure screws properly with Loctite 242
Incorrect dimension ,,X“
Measure and adjust to correct specification
Cylinder head or O-ring of cylinder
head gasket leaks
Check cylinder head, replace O-ring
Excessive oil quantity in transmission
Correct transmission oil level
Water pump shaft seal ring or righthand crankshaft seal ring defect
Replace shaft seal ring and change gear oil, check coolant
Silicon O-rings of control roller or of
control flap leaks
Replace O-rings
Voltage regulator faulty
Control connections of voltage regulator. Check voltage regulator
7
3
– Notices –
8.0 Technical data / maintenance schedule
Cap.
Component / Component unit
Page
8.1
Technical data - engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-2
8.2
Tolerance, assembly clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-3
8.3
Tightening torques - engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-3
8.4
Gasket thicknesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-3
8.5
Basic carburetor setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-3
8.6
Maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8-4
8
1
54.25 / 54 mm (2.136 / 2.126 in)
124.8 ccm
200 MXC
forged piston
12 : 33
15 : 31
17 : 28
19 : 26
21 : 25
20 : 20
6 speed, claw actuated
multiple disc clutch in oil bath
straight cut spur gears, primary ratio 23:73
0.60 mm (0,024 in)
Air-filter
Carburetor
no generator
Generator output
12V 40 W
12V / 110 W
12V 110 W
KOKUSAN 2K-3
wet foam type air filter insert
flat-slide carburetor, carburetor setting see table
USA: KOKUSAN 2K-2 EU: KOKUSAN 2K-3
1.2 litres, 40% anti freeze, 60% water, at least -25 °C (-13 °F)
KOKUSAN 2K-1
Ignition system
Coolant
for chain 5/8 x 1/4"
38t / 40t / 42t / 45t / 48t / 50t / 52t
Available final sprockets
for chain 5/8 x 1/4"
13t / 14t / 15t
Available chain sprockets
14:40
13:50
42 mm (1.65 in)
NGK R 6918-B8
Rear wheel ratio
13:50
0.60 mm (0.024 in)
1.4 mm (0.055 in) (16.5°) BTDC
0.7 l engine oil 20W-40 (Shell Advance VSX4)
(height of the
control flap)
(upper edge piston upper edge cylinder)
Gear lubrication
Gear ratio
1st gear
2nd gear
3rd gear
4th gear
5th gear
6th gear
Transmission
Clutch
Primary drive
Dimension "Z"
Electrode gap
Spark plug
Ignition timing
Dimension "X"
Piston ring
one plain compression ring
needle bearing
Piston
needle bearing
Piston pin bearing
12V 40 W
KOKUSAN 2K-2
14:50
13 : 32
15 : 30
17 : 28
19 : 26
21 : 25
22 : 23
46 mm (1.81 in)
NGK BR 8 EG
12V 110 W
KOKUSAN 2K-3
14:50
12 : 33
15 : 31
17 : 28
19 : 26
22 : 25
22 : 20
14:48
1.6 mm (0.063 in) (17°) BTDC
0.55 mm (0.22 in)
two plain compression rings
cast piston
SUPER fuel, research octane no 95, mixed with high grade two stroke oil
1 deep-groove ball bearing / 1 cylinder roller bearing
Connecting rod bearing
193 ccm
200 EXC, EGS
64 / 60 mm (2.52 / 2.362 in)
1:40 when using high grade two stroke oil (Shell Advance Racing X). When in doupt, please contact your importer
SUPER fuel, research octane no 98, mixed with high grade two stroke oil
13 : 32
15 : 30
17 : 28
19 : 26
21 : 25
22 : 24
125 EGS
Liquid-cooled single-cylinder two-stroke engine with intake and exhaust control
125 EXC
Crankshaft bearing
125 SX
Oil / gasolin ratio
Fuel
Bore / stroke
Piston displacement
Design
Engine
2
8.1 TECHNICAL DATA - ENGINE 125 / 200 ‘98
8
0.2– 0.4 mm
new = 39 mm, minimum length = 38 mm
Transmission shafts end float
Clutch springs - length
1.10 mm + O-ring
Cylinder-head gasket
Carburetor
Carburetor setting number
Main jet
Idling jet
Starting jet
Jetneedle
Needle position from top
Throttle valve
Air adjustment screw open
Keihin PWK 39
290597
190 (188)
48
85
NOZH (N1EH)
III
6
1,5 turn
125 SX, EXC
Keihin PWK 39
280197
180 (178, 182)
45
85
N1EH (NOZH)
II
6
1,5 turn
200 EXC
EUROPE
0.15 / 0.2 / 0.5 / 0.7 mm
Available bottom gasket
8.5 BASIC CARBURETOR SETTING
0.30 / 0.50 / 0.75 mm
as required
Cylinder bottom gasket
Clutch cover
Clutch driving cylinder
0,5 mm
0,5 mm
Crankcase
Keihin PWK 39
280597
180 (178, 182)
45
85
N1EH (NOZH)
III
6
1,5 turn
200 EXC, MXC
USA
0.025– 0.035 mm
Connecting rod bearing - radial clearance
8.4 GASKET THICKNESSES
max. 0.40 mm
Piston ring end cap
200 = 0.085 mm
125 = 0.06 mm
8.2 TOLERANCES AND FITTING CLEARANCES
Piston fitting clearance
8
3
18 Nm
10 Nm
30 Nm
50 Nm
M6
M8
M 10
Other screws
20 Nm
100 Nm
M 14x1.25
M 14
Nut swingarm pivot
8 Nm
120 Nm
180 Nm
60 Nm
30 Nm
Spark plug
M 18x1.5
M6
Crankcase and clutch cover bolts
Nut for primary sprocket (LH thread)
Nut for inner clutch hub
M 12x1
M 16x1.5
Flywheel collar nut
M7
M8
Nuts-cylinder base
8.3 TIGHTENING TORQUES
Flange bolts - cylinder-head
(13 ft.lb)
(37 ft.lb)
(22 ft.lb)
(7 ft.lb)
(74 ft.lb)
(14 ft.lb)
(6 ft.lb)
(88 ft.lb)
(133 ft.lb)
(44 ft.lb)
(22 ft.lb)
8
4
●
●
●
●
at least
once a year
after 4000 km
(2500 miles) or once a year
Check transmission oil level
Change transmission oil
Check spark plug and electrode gap
Change spark plug
Functional testing of the exhaust control system
Check intake manifold for leaks and cracks
Drain and clean carburetor float chamber
Adjust idling
Check breather hoses of engine case and gas tank for correct position without buckles
Clean and check airfilter element, box and carburetor connection boot
Check chain, sprockets, guides and chain wear
Clean and oil chain
Check chain tension
Check coolant level
Check quality of antifreeze
Check cooling system for leaks - visual inspection
Check exhaust system for cracks and leaks
Replace glass fiber yarn of silencer
Check of the exhaust suspension system
Check brake fluid level front and rear
Change brake fluid
Check thickness of disc brake pads
Check brake discs
Inspect condition and installation of front and rear brake hoses
Check free travel and free movability of hand brake lever and foot brake lever
Check the oil level in the master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch (125/200)
Change the oil of the hydraulic clutch (125/200)
Check telescopic fork action
Check telescopic fork for leaks
Push up the protective bellows and remove the dirt; the drain holes must be free of obstructions (Marzocchi fork)
Clean the dust scrabbers of the telescopic force (WP Extreme fork)
Undo the bleeder screws at the fork legs
Change oil of telescopic fork
Service telescopic fork completely
Check steering head bearing free play
Clean and regrease steering head bearing
Check setting and damping of shock absorber
Service shock absorber completely
Grease swingarm needle bearings
Check for even spoke tension and rim alignment
Check wheel bearings
Check tires for cuts and air pressure
Check cables for damage and free movement
Adjust and oil control cables
Check electrical system
Check battery holder and connections (A, CH)
Check adjustment of headlight
Apply contact spray to light switches, flasher switches and ignition lock
Check all bolts, nuts, screws and clamps for proper tightness
Clean and lubricate control lever pivot points
after washing
AT A REGULAR COMPETITION USE OF THE BIKE, THE 4000 KM
(2500 MILES) SERVICE IS TO BE DONE AFTER EVERY RACE
before each start
125-380 7.97
after 2000 km
(1250 miles) or 20 hours
KTM
dealer
1st service after 1000 km
(600 miles) or 10 hours
KTM
rider
8.6 PERIODIC LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
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KTM-SPORTMOTORCYCLE
AG
A-5230 Mattighofen • Postfach 91 • Austria
I n t e r n e t :
h t t p : / / w w w . k t m . c o . a t
FN 102019 d - Landesgericht Ried im Innkreis
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