Residential Gas Water Heaters

Residential Gas Water Heaters
Instruction Manual
RESIDENTIAL GAS WATER HEATERS
POWER VENTED GAS MODELS W/HOT SURFACE IGNITION
NOT FOR USE IN MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOMES
www.statewaterheaters.com
• For Your Safety •
AN ODORANT IS ADDED TO THE GAS USED
BY THIS WATER HEATER.
ALL TECHNICAL AND WARRANTY QUESTIONS: SHOULD BE DIRECTED TO THE LOCAL DEALER FROM WHOM THE WATER HEATER WAS
PURCHASED. IF YOU ARE UNSUCCESSFUL, PLEASE WRITE TO THE COMPANY LISTED ON THE RATING PLATE ON THE WATER HEATER.
KEEP THIS MANUAL IN THE POCKET ON HEATER FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
WHENEVER MAINTENANCE ADJUSTMENT OR SERVICE IS REQUIRED.
PRINTED IN THE U.S.A 0606
1
PART NO. 197425-001
SAFE INSTALLATION, USE AND SERVICE
Your safety and the safety of others is extremely important in the installation, use and servicing of this water heater.
Many safety-related messages and instructions have been provided in this manual and on your own water heater to warn you and
others of a potential injury hazard. Read and obey all safety messages and instructions throughout this manual. It is very
important that the meaning of each safety message is understood by you and others who install, use or service this water heater.
All safety messages will generally tell you about the type of hazard, what can happen if you do not follow the safety message and
how to avoid the risk of injury.
IMPORTANT DEFINITIONS
• Qualified Installer: A qualified installer must have ability equivalent to a licensed tradesman in the fields of plumbing,
air supply, venting and gas supply, including a thorough understanding of the requirements of the National Fuel Gas
Code as it relates to the installation of gas fired water heaters. The qualified installer must also be familiar with the
design features of water heaters, and have a thorough understanding of this instruction manual.
• Service Agency: A service agency also must have ability equivalent to a licensed tradesman in the fields of plumbing,
air supply, venting and gas supply, including a thorough understanding of the requirements of the National Fuel Gas
Code as it relates to the installation of gas fired water heaters. The service agency must also have a thorough
understanding of this instruction manual, and be able to perform repairs strictly in accordance with the service guidelines
provided by the manufacturer.
• Gas Supplier: The Natural Gas or Propane Utility or service who supplies gas for utilization by the gas burning
appliances within this application. The gas supplier typically has responsibility for the inspection and code approval of
gas piping up to and including the Natural Gas meter or Propane storage tank of a building. Many gas suppliers also
offer service and inspection of appliances within the building.
2
GENERAL SAFETY
3
GENERAL SAFETY
4
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SAFE INSTALLATION, USE AND SERVICE ........................... 2
GENERAL SAFETY ............................................................. 3-4
TABLE OF CONTENTS ........................................................... 5
INTRODUCTION ..................................................................... 5
Preparing for the Installation ............................................ 5
TYPICAL INSTALLATION .................................................... 6-8
LOCATING THE NEW WATER HEATER ........................... 9-11
Facts to Consider About Location .............................. 9-10
Insulation Blankets ......................................................... 10
Combustion Air and Ventilation for Appliances
Located in Unconfined Spaces ....................................... 10
Combustion Air and Ventilation for Appliances
Located in Confined Spaces ..................................... 10-11
INSTALLING THE WATER HEATER ............................... 12-24
Chemical Vapor Corrosion ............................................. 12
Water Piping ............................................................. 12-13
Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve ............................... 13
Gas Piping ...................................................................... 14
Sediment Traps .............................................................. 15
Filling the Water Heater ................................................. 15
Vent Pipe Assembly ....................................................... 15
Venting ........................................................................... 15
Vent Pipe Termination .................................................... 16
Planning the Vent System .............................................. 17
Condensate .............................................................. 17-18
Blower Assembly Installation .......................................... 18
Installation of Vent System ....................................... 18-20
Vent Attenuation Assembly Installation Instructions ....... 21-22
Vent Pipe Preparation .............................................. 23-24
LIGHTING & OPERATING LABEL ........................................ 25
TEMPERATURE REGULATION ............................................ 26
FOR YOUR INFORMATION .................................................. 27
Start Up Conditions
Smoke/Odor ........................................................... 27
Thermal Expansion ................................................. 27
Strange Sounds ...................................................... 27
Operational Conditions ................................................... 27
Smelly Water .......................................................... 27
“Air” in Hot Water Faucets ...................................... 27
High Temperature Shut Off System ........................ 27
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE ............................................ 28-30
Venting System Inspection ............................................. 28
Burner Operation and Inspection ................................... 28
Burner Cleaning ............................................................. 28
Housekeeping .......................................................... 28-29
Anode Rod Inspection .................................................... 29
Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve Operation .............. 29
Draining .......................................................................... 29
Service ........................................................................... 30
LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS ................................................... 30
REPAIR PARTS ..................................................................... 31
TROUBLESHOOTING ..................................................... 32-34
WARRANTY .......................................................................... 35
INTRODUCTION
2. The installation must conform with these instructions and the
local code authority having jurisdiction. In the absence of local
codes, installations shall comply with the National Fuel Gas Code
(ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54) or the Natural Gas and Propane
Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1) and the National Electrical
Code (NFPA 70), or the Canadian Electrical Code (C22.1). These
publications are available from The National Fire Protection
Association, 1 Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269.
Thank You for purchasing this water heater. Properly installed and
maintained, it should give you years of trouble free service.
Abbreviations Found In This Instruction Manual:
• CSA - Canadian Standards Association
• ANSI - American National Standards Institute
• NFPA - National Fire Protection Association
3. The water heater when installed must be grounded in accordance
with the local codes, or in the absence of local codes: the National
Electrical Code (NFPA 70) or the Canadian Electrical Code (C22.1).
• ASME - American Society of Mechanical Engineers
• GAMA - Gas Appliance Manufacturer’s Association
• UL - Underwriters Laboratories Inc.
4. If after reading this manual you have any questions or do not
understand any portion of the instructions, call the local gas utility
or the manufacturer whose name appears on the rating plate.
This gas-fired water heater is design certified by Underwriters
Laboratories Inc. under American National Standard/CSA Standard
for Gas Water Heaters ANSI Z21.10.3 • CSA 4.3 (current edition).
5. Carefully plan the place where you are going to put the water
heater. Correct combustion, vent action, and vent pipe installation
are very important in preventing death from possible carbon
monoxide poisoning and fires, see Figures 1 and 2.
PREPARING FOR THE INSTALLATION
Examine the location to ensure the water heater complies with
the “Locating the New Water Heater” section in this manual.
1. Read the “General Safety” section, page 3 and 4 of this manual
first and then the entire manual carefully. If you don’t follow the
safety rules, the water heater will not operate properly. It could
cause DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY AND/OR PROPERTY
DAMAGE.
6. For California installation this water heater must be braced,
anchored, or strapped to avoid falling or moving during an
earthquake. See instructions for correct installation procedures.
Instructions may be obtained from California Office of the State
Architect, 400 P Street, Sacramento, CA 95814.
This manual contains instructions for the installation, operation, and
maintenance of the gas-fired water heater. It also contains warnings
throughout the manual that you must read and be aware of. All
warnings and all instructions are essential to the proper operation of
the water heater and your safety. Since we cannot put everything
on the first few pages, READ THE ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL OR OPERATE THE WATER HEATER.
7. Massachusetts Code requires this water heater to be installed in
accordance with Massachusetts 248-CMR 2.00: State Plumbing
Code and 248-CMR 5.00.
8. Complies with SCAQMD rule #1146 and districts having equivalent
NOx requirements.
5
TYPICAL INSTALLATION
GET TO KNOW YOUR WATER HEATER - GAS MODELS
A
B
C
D
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Vent Pipe
Anode
Hot Water Outlet
Outlet (120 VAC)
Gas Supply
Main Manual Gas Shut Off Valve
Ground Joint Union
Dirt Leg
Outer Door
Union
Inlet Water Shut Off Valve
Cold Water Inlet
Inlet Dip Tube
Temperature & Pressure
Relief Valve
Q
R
S
T
U
W
X
Y
AA
CC
DD
EE
FF
GG
HH
II
JJ
KK
LL
MM
NN
OO
PP
Rating Plate
Insulation
Vent Terminal
Drain Valve
Igniter And Main Burner
Drain Pan
Control
Control Harness*
Motor & Blower
Condensate Fitting
(4 Places Shown)**
Plastic Top
On/Off Switch
Exhaust Tee
Elbow
QQ
RR
Bushing
Nipple
Condensate Tee
Hose Barb
Plug
Vent Pipe Assembly #1
Vent Pipe Assembly #2
Vent Pipe Assembly #3
Side Recirculation Loop
Inlet***
Side Recirculation Loop
Outlet*** (not shown)
Vent Attenuation
Assembly (VAA) (Optional)
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND DELIMING
PRODUCTS
Replacement parts and recommended delimer may be ordered through
authorized servicers or distributors. When ordering parts, provide complete
model and serial numbers (see rating plate), quantity and name of part
desired. Standard hardware items may be purchased locally.
CONDENSATE ASSEMBLY
(U) NATURAL GAS MAIN BURNER
WITH IGNITER ASSEMBLY
SIDE VIEW
(X)
TEMPERATURE INDICATORS
VACUUM RELIEF
VALVE
*INSTALL PER
LOCAL CODES
* CAUTION HARNESS HAS 120 VAC. IN OPERATION.
** See "PLANNING THE VENT SYSTEM", "CONDENSATE" and "BLOWER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION" for more
information.
***The side recirculation loop connections may not be used as the primary water inlet and outlet connections.
For your convenience, plugs are installed in these fittings at the factory. Remove these plugs if needed for
your specific installation. Otherwise (as with all connections) check for leaks while filling the tank with
water and after completing the installation.
FIGURE 1
6
TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT BUTTONS
TYPICAL INSTALLATION
CONDENSATE HOSE AND DRAIN PAN
* Note: Condensate Trap Loops must be oriented in a vertical plane as shown. The traps
also must be primed by filling half of the loop with water prior to operating the water heater.
Carefully plan the location of the loops and straight sections of hose prior to cutting hoses.
If necessary, secure the hoses to the side of the water heater or some other rigid structure
to prevent crimping. While securing the hoses, do not pierce or crimp the hoses.
FIGURE 1 (continued).
7
TYPICAL INSTALLATION
MIXING VALVE USAGE
FIGURE 2.
This appliance has been design certified as complying with American
National Standard/CSA Standard for water heaters and is considered
suitable for:
HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD:
Water heaters are intended to produce hot water. Water heated to a
temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish
washing, and other sanitizing needs can scald and permanently injure
you upon contact. Some people are more likely to be permanently
injured by hot water than others. These include the elderly, children,
the infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone using hot
water in your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a local
code or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot
water tap, then you must take special precautions. In addition to
using the lowest possible temperature setting that satisfies your hot
water needs, a means such as a *Mixing Valve, shall be used at the
hot water taps used by these people or at the water heater. Mixing
valves are available at plumbing supply or hardware stores. Consult
a Qualified Installer or Service Agency. Follow mixing valve
manufacturer’s instructions for installation of the valves. Before
changing the factory setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature
Regulation” section in this manual, see Figure 26.
Water (Potable) Heating and Space Heating: All models are
considered suitable for water (potable) heating and space heating.
8
LOCATING THE NEW WATER HEATER
FACTS TO CONSIDER ABOUT THE LOCATION
Carefully choose an indoor location for the new water heater, because
the placement is a very important consideration for the safety of the
occupants in the building and for the most economical use of the
appliance. This water heater is not for use in manufactured
(mobile) homes or outdoor installation.
Whether replacing an old water heater or putting the water heater in a
new location, the following critical points must be observed:
1. Select a location indoors as close as practical to the vent terminal or
location to which the water heater vent piping is going to be connected,
and as centralized with the water piping system as possible.
2. Selected location must provide adequate clearances for servicing
and proper operation of the water heater.
Installation of the water heater must be accomplished in such a manner
that if the tank or any connections should leak, the flow will not cause
damage to the structure. For this reason, it is not advisable to install
the water heater in an attic or upper floor. When such locations cannot
be avoided, a suitable drain pan should be installed under the water
heater. Drain pans are available at your local hardware store. Such
a drain pan must have a clearance of at least 1.0" (2.5cm) greater
than any point on the water heater’s outer jacket and must be piped
to an adequate drain. The pan must not restrict combustion air flow.
For example, if a circular pan is used, it must be a minimum of 27"
(69cm) in diameter. See Figure 1.
Water heater life depends upon water quality, water pressure
and the environment in which the water heater is installed. Water
heaters are sometimes installed in locations where leakage may
result in property damage, even with the use of a drain pan piped
to a drain. However, unanticipated damage can be reduced or
prevented by a leak detector or water shut-off device used in
conjunction with a piped drain pan. These devices are available
from some plumbing supply wholesalers and retailers, and detect
and react to leakage in various ways:
• Sensors mounted in the drain pan that trigger an alarm or turn off
the incoming water to the water heater when leakage is detected.
• Sensors mounted in the drain pan that turn off the water supply
to the entire home when water is detected in the drain pan.
• Water supply shut-off devices that activate based on the water
pressure differential between the cold water and hot water pipes
connected to the water heater.
• Devices that will turn off the gas supply to a gas water heater
while at the same time shutting off its water supply.
INSTALLATIONS IN AREAS WHERE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS
(VAPORS) ARE LIKELY TO BE PRESENT OR STORED
(GARAGES, STORAGE AND UTILITY AREAS, ETC.): Flammable
liquids (such as gasoline, solvents, propane (LP or butane, etc.)
and other substances (such as adhesives, etc.) emit flammable
vapors which can be ignited by a gas water heater’s hot surface
igniter or main burner. The resulting flashback and fire can cause
death or serious burns to anyone in the area.
This water heater must not be installed directly on carpeting.
Carpeting must be protected by metal or wood panel beneath the
appliance extending beyond the full width and depth of the appliance
by at least 3" (7.6 cm) in any direction, or if the appliance is installed
Also, the water heater must be located and/or protected so it is not
subject to physical damage by a moving vehicle.
9
If this water heater will be used in beauty shops, barber shops, cleaning
establishments, or self-service laundries with dry cleaning equipment,
it is imperative that the water heater or water heaters be installed so
that combustion and ventilation air be taken from outside these areas.
in an alcove or closet, the entire floor must be covered by the panel.
Failure to heed this warning may result in a fire hazard.
Propellants of aerosol sprays and volatile compounds, (cleaners,
chlorine based chemicals, refrigerants, etc.) in addition to being highly
flammable in many cases, will also react to form corrosive hydrochloric
acid when exposed to the combustion products of the water heater.
The results can be hazardous, and also cause product failure.
INSULATION BLANKETS
Insulation blankets are available to the general public for external use
on gas water heaters but are not necessary with these products. The
purpose of an insulation blanket is to reduce the standby heat loss
encountered with storage tank heaters. Your water heater meets or
exceeds the Energy Policy Act standards with respect to insulation and
standby loss requirements, making an insulation blanket unnecessary.
Minimum clearances between the water heater and combustible
construction are 0 inch at the sides and rear, 5.5" (14.0 cm) from the front
and 12" (30.5 cm) from the top. (Standard clearance.) If clearances stated
on the heater differ from standard clearances, install water heater
according to clearances stated on the heater.
Should you choose to apply an insulation blanket to this heater, you
should follow these instructions (For identification of components
mentioned below, see Figure 1). Failure to follow these instructions
can restrict the air flow required for proper combustion, potentially
resulting in fire, asphyxiation, serious personal injury or death.
Adequate clearance 24" (61.0 cm) for servicing this appliance should
be considered before installation, such as changing the anodes, etc.
A minimum clearance of 5.5" (14.0 cm) must be allowed for access to
replaceable parts such as the thermostats, drain valve and relief valve.
When installing the heater, consideration must be given to proper location.
Location selected should be as close to the wall as practicable and as
centralized with the water piping system as possible.
• Do not apply insulation to the top of the water heater, as this will
interfere with safe operation of the blower assembly.
• Do not cover the outer door, thermostat or temperature & pressure
relief valve.
• Do not allow insulation to come within 2" (5.1 cm) of the floor to
prevent blockage of combustion air flow to the burner.
• Do not cover the instruction manual. Keep it on the side of the
water heater or nearby for future reference.
• Do obtain new warning and instruction labels from the manufacturer
for placement on the blanket directly over the existing labels.
• Do inspect the insulation blanket frequently to make certain it
does not sag, thereby obstructing combustion air flow.
FIGURE 4.
A gas water heater cannot operate properly without the correct
amount of air for combustion. Do not install in a confined area
such as a closet, unless you provide air as shown in the “Locating
The New Water Heater” section. Never obstruct the flow of
ventilation air. If you have any doubts or questions at all, call your
gas supplier. Failure to provide the proper amount of combustion
air can result in a fire or explosion and cause death, serious bodily
injury, or property damage.
COMBUSTION AIR AND VENTILATION FOR
APPLIANCES LOCATED IN UNCONFINED SPACES
UNCONFINED SPACE is space whose volume is not less than
50 cubic feet per 1,000 Btu per hour (4.8 cubic meters per kW) of the
aggregate input rating of all appliances installed in that space. Rooms
communicating directly with the space in which the appliances are
installed, through openings not furnished with doors, are considered
a part of the unconfined space.
In unconfined spaces in buildings, infiltration may be adequate to
provide air for combustion, ventilation and dilution of flue gases.
However, in buildings of tight construction (for example, weather
stripping, heavily insulated, caulked, vapor barrier, etc.), additional air
may need to be provided using the methods described in “Combustion
Air and Ventilation for Appliances Located in Confined Spaces.”
COMBUSTION AIR AND VENTILATION FOR
APPLIANCES LOCATED IN CONFINED SPACES
CONFINED SPACE is a space whose volume is less than 50 cubic
feet per 1,000 Btu per hour (4.8 cm per kW) of the aggregate input
rating of all appliances installed in that space.
When drawing combustion air from inside a conventionally
constructed building to a confined space, such a space shall be
provided with two permanent openings. ONE WITHIN 12 INCHES
(30 cm) OF THE ENCLOSURE TOP AND ONE WITHIN 12 INCHES
(30 cm) OF THE ENCLOSURE BOTTOM. Each opening shall have
FIGURE 5.
10
a free area of one square inch per 1000 Btu/hr (22 cm2/kW) of the
total input of all appliances in the enclosure, but not less than 100
square inches (645 cm2).
2. When communicating with the outdoors through vertical ducts,
each opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square inch
per 4,000 Btu per hour (5.5 cm2/kW) of total input rating of all
equipment in the enclosure, see Figure 8.
If the confined space is within a building of tight construction, air for
combustion and ventilation must be obtained from outdoors. When
directly communicating with the outdoors or communicating through
vertical ducts, two permanent openings, located in the above manner,
shall be provided. Each opening shall have a free area of not less
than one square inch per 4000 Btu/hr (5.5 cm2/kW) of total input of
all appliances in the enclosure. If horizontal ducts are used, each
opening shall have a free area of not less than one square inch per
2000 Btu/hr (11cm2/kW) of the total input of all appliances in the enclosure.
3. When communicating with the outdoors through horizontal
ducts, each opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square
inch per 2,000 Btu per hour (11 cm2/kW)) of total input rating of
all equipment in the enclosure, see Figure 9.
A. ALL AIR FROM INSIDE BUILDINGS: (See Figure 5 and 6)
The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings
communicating directly with an additional room(s) of sufficient volume
so that the combined volume of all spaces meets the criteria for an
unconfined space. The total input of all gas utilization equipment installed
in the combined space shall be considered in making this determination.
Each opening shall have a minimum free area of one square inch per
1,000 Btu per hour (22 cm2/kW) of the total input rating of all gas utilization
equipment in the confined space, but not less than 100 square inches
(645 cm 2). One opening shall commence within 12 inches
(30 cm) of the top and one commencing within 12 inches (30 cm) of
the bottom of the enclosures.
FIGURE 8.
4. When ducts are used, they shall be of the same cross-sectional
area as the free area of the openings to which they connect.
The minimum short side dimension of rectangular air ducts shall
not be less than 3 inches (7.6 cm), see Figure 9.
FIGURE 6.
B. ALL AIR FROM OUTDOORS: (See Figures 7, 8 and 9)
The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings,
one commencing within 12 inches (30 cm) of the top and one
commencing within 12 inches (30 cm) from the bottom of the enclosure.
The openings shall communicate directly, or by ducts, with the outdoors
or spaces (crawl or attic) that freely communicate with the outdoors.
1. When directly communicating with the outdoors, each opening shall
have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per 4,000 Btu per hour
(5.5 cm2/kW) of total input rating of all equipment in the enclosure,
see Figure 7.
FIGURE 9.
5. Louvers and Grilles: In calculating free area, consideration shall be
given to the blocking effect of louvers, grilles or screens protecting
openings. Screens used shall not be smaller than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm)
mesh. If the free area through a design of louver or grille is known, it
should be used in calculating the size opening required to provide the
free area specified. If the design and free area is not known, it may be
assumed that wood louvers will be 20-25 percent free area and metal
louvers and grilles will have 60-75 percent free area. Louvers and grilles
shall be fixed in the open position or interlocked with the equipment so
that they are opened automatically during equipment operation.
6. Special Conditions Created by Mechanical Exhausting or Fireplaces:
operation of exhaust fans, ventilation systems, clothes dryers or
fireplaces may create conditions requiring special attention to avoid
unsatisfactory operation of installed gas utilization equipment.
FIGURE 7.
11
INSTALLING THE NEW WATER HEATER
CHEMICAL VAPOR CORROSION
CORROSION OF THE FLUEWAYS AND VENT SYSTEM MAY OCCUR IF
AIR FOR COMBUSTION CONTAINS CERTAIN CHEMICAL VAPORS. SUCH
CORROSION MAY RESULT IN FAILURE AND RISK OF ASPHYXIATION.
Spray can propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air
conditioning refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and
sodium chloride (water softener salt), waxes, and process chemicals
are typical compounds which are potentially corrosive.
Do not store products of this sort near the heater. Also, air which is
brought in contact with the heater should not contain any of these
chemicals. If necessary, uncontaminated air should be obtained from
remote or outside sources. The limited warranty is voided when failure
of water heater is due to a corrosive atmosphere. (See limited warranty
for complete terms and conditions).
WATER PIPING
Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line pressure,
frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among others, have
installed devices such as pressure reducing valves, check valves, back
flow preventers, etc. to control these types of problems. When these
devices are not equipped with an internal by-pass, and no other measures
are taken, the devices cause the water system to be closed. As water is
heated, it expands (thermal expansion) and closed systems do not allow
for the expansion of heated water.
The water within the water heater tank expands as it is heated and increases
the pressure of the water system. If the relieving point of the water heater’s
temperature-pressure relief valve is reached, the valve will relieve the
excess pressure. The temperature-pressure relief valve is not intended
for the constant relief of thermal expansion. This is an unacceptable
condition and must be corrected.
It is recommended that any devices installed which could create a closed
system have a by-pass and/or the system have an expansion tank to
relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the water system.
Expansion tanks are available for ordering through a local plumbing
contractor. Contact the local water supplier and/or a service agency for
assistance in controlling these situations.
NOTE: To protect against untimely corrosion of hot and cold
water fittings, it is strongly recommended that di-electric unions
or couplings be installed on this water heater when connected
to copper pipe.
All gas piping must comply with local codes and ordinances or with the National
Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/ NFPA-54) or the Natural Gas and Propane
Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1) whichever applies. Copper and brass
tubing and fittings (except tin lined copper tubing) shall not be used.
HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD:
Water heaters are intended to produce hot water. Water heated to a
temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish
washing, cleaning and other sanitizing needs can scald and permanently
injure you upon contact. Some people are more likely to be permanently
injured by hot water than others. These include the elderly, children, the
infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone using hot water in
your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a local code or
state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot water tap,
then you must take special precautions. In addition to using the lowest
possible temperature setting that satisfies your hot water needs, a means
such as a *mixing valve, shall be used at the hot water taps used by
these people or at the water heater, see Figure 2. Valves for reducing
point of use temperature by mixing cold and hot water are also available:
Consult a Qualified Installer or Service Agency. Follow manufacturer’s
instructions for installation of the valves. Before changing the factory
setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section
in this manual.
This water heater shall not be connected to any heating systems or
component(s) used with a non-potable water heating appliance.
All piping components connected to this unit for space heating applications
shall be suitable for use with potable water.
Toxic chemicals, such as those used for boiler treatment shall not be
introduced into this system.
When the system requires water for space heating at temperatures higher
than required for domestic water purposes, a tempering valve must be
installed. Please refer to Figure 2 for suggested piping arrangement.
FIGURE 10.
12
Figure 10 shows the typical attachment of the water piping to the
water heater. The water heater is equipped with 3/4 inch NPT
water connections.
The valve must be marked with a maximum set pressure not to exceed
the marked hydrostatic working pressure of the water heater
(150 psi = 1,035 kPa) and a discharge capacity not less than the
water heater input rate as shown on the model rating plate.
NOTE: If using copper tubing, solder tubing to an adapter before
attaching the adapter to the water heater connections. Do not
solder the water lines directly to the water heater connections.
It will harm the dip tube and damage the tank.
For safe operation of the water heater, the relief valve must not be
removed from its designated opening nor plugged.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be installed directly into
the fitting of the water heater designed for the relief valve. Position
the valve downward and provide tubing so that any discharge will exit
only within 6 inches (15.2 cm) above, or at any distance below the
structural floor. Be certain that no contact is made with any live
electrical part. The discharge opening must not be blocked or reduced
in size under any circumstances. Excessive length, over 30 feet (9.14
m), or use of more than four elbows can cause restriction and reduce
the discharge capacity of the valve, see Figures 10 or 14.
T & P Valve and Pipe Insulation (if supplied)
Remove insulation for T & P valve and pipe connections from carton.
No valve or other obstruction is to be placed between the relief valve
and the tank. Do not connect tubing directly to discharge drain unless
a 6" (15.2 cm) air gap is provided. To prevent bodily injury, hazard to
life, or property damage, the relief valve must be allowed to discharge
water in quantities should circumstances demand. If the discharge
pipe is not connected to a drain or other suitable means, the water
flow may cause property damage.
FIGURE 11.
Fit pipe insulation over the incoming cold water line and the hot water
line. Make sure that the insulation is against the top cover of the heater.
Fit T & P valve insulation over valve. Make sure that the insulation
does not interfere with the lever of the T & P valve.
Secure all insulation using tape.
TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
The Discharge Pipe:
• Shall not be smaller in size than the outlet pipe size of the valve, or
have any reducing couplings or other restrictions.
• Shall not be plugged or blocked.
• Shall be of material listed for hot water distribution.
• Shall be installed so as to allow complete drainage of both the
temperature-pressure relief valve, and the discharge pipe.
• Shall terminate at an adequate drain.
• Shall not have any valve between the relief valve and tank.
This heater is provided with a properly certified combination
temperature - pressure relief valve by the manufacturer.
The valve is certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory
that maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equipment
of materials as meeting the requirements for Relief Valves and
Automatic Gas Shut-off Devices for Hot Water Supply Systems, ANSI
Z21.22 • CSA 4.4, and the code requirements of ASME.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at least
once a year. Caution should be taken to ensure that (1) no one is in front
of or around the outlet of the temperature-pressure relief valve discharge
line, and (2) the water manually discharged will not cause any bodily
injury or property damage because the water may be extremely hot.
If replaced, the valve must meet the requirements of local codes, but
not less than a combination temperature and pressure relief valve
certified as indicated in the above paragraph.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and
continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to
the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the
temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
13
GAS PIPING
When installed at elevations above 2,000 feet (610 meters) for
standard models or 4,500 feet (1,370m) for high altitude models, input
rating should be reduced at the rate of 4 percent for each 1,000 feet
(305 meters) above sea level which requires replacement of the burner
orifice in accordance with National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/
NFPA 54) or the Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/
CSA B149.1). Contact your local gas supplier for further information.
Failure to replace the standard orifice with a high altitude orifice when
installed could result in improper and inefficient operation of the
appliance, producing carbon monoxide gas in excess of safe limits,
which could result in serious injury or death. Contact your gas supplier
for any specific changes which may be required in your area.
Make sure the gas supplied is the same type listed on the model rating
plate. The inlet gas pressure must not exceed 14 inch water column (3.5
kPa) for natural and propane gas (L.P.). The minimum inlet gas pressure
shown on the rating plate is that which will permit firing at rated input.
All gas piping must comply with local codes and ordinances or with the
National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/ NFPA-54) or the Natural Gas and
Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1) whichever applies. Copper
and brass tubing and fittings (except tin lined copper tubing) shall not be used.
Use pipe joint compound or teflon tape marked as being resistant to
the action of petroleum [Propane (L.P.)] gases.
If the gas control valve is subjected to pressures exceeding 1/2 psi
(3.5 kPa), the damage to the gas control valve could result in a fire
or explosion from leaking gas.
The appliance and its gas connection must be leak tested before
placing the appliance in operation.
If the main gas line Shut-off serving all gas appliances is used, also
turn “off” the gas at each appliance. Leave all gas appliances shut
“off” until the water heater installation is complete.
The appliance and its individual Shut-off valve shall be disconnected
from the gas supply piping system during any pressure testing of
that system at test pressures in excess of 1/2 pound per square
inch (3.5 kPa). It shall be isolated from the gas supply piping system
by closing its individual manual Shut-off valve during any pressure
testing of the gas supply piping system at test pressures equal to or
less than 1/2 pound per square inch (3.5 kPa).
A gas line of sufficient size must be run to the water heater. Consult
the current edition of National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/NFPA
54) or the Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA
B149.1) and your gas supplier concerning pipe size.
Connecting the gas piping to the gas control valve of the water heater can be
accomplished by either of the two methods shown in Figures 12 and 13.
There must be:
• A readily accessible manual shut off valve in the gas supply line
serving the water heater, and
• A drip leg (sediment trap) ahead of the gas control valve to help
prevent dirt and foreign materials from entering the gas control valve.
• A flexible gas connector or a ground joint union between the shut
off valve and control valve to permit servicing of the unit.
Be sure to check all the gas piping for leaks before lighting the water
heater. Use a soapy water solution, not a match or open flame.
Rinse off soapy solution and wipe dry.
FIGURE 12. GAS PIPING WITH
FLEXIBLE CONNECTOR.
FIGURE 13. GAS PIPING WITH ALL
BLACK IRON PIPE TO GAS CONTROL.
14
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water. To prevent
damage to the tank, the tank must be filled with water. Water must flow
from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas to the water heater.
SEDIMENT TRAPS
To fill the water heater with water:
1. Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to the right
(clockwise). The drain valve is on the lower front of the water heater.
2. Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.
NOTE: The cold water supply valve must be left open when
the water heater is in use.
3. To insure complete filling of the tank, allow air to exit by opening the
nearest hot water faucet. Allow water to run until a constant flow is
obtained. This will let air out of the water heater and the piping.
4. Check all water piping and connections for leaks. Repair as needed.
VENT PIPE ASSEMBLY
There are three parts of the vent pipe assembly that connect the water
heater exhaust (located on the lower back side of the water heater) to
the inlet of the blower assembly (mounted on top of the water heater) as
shown in Figure 1. These parts will need to be assembled according to
the instructions in the VENT PIPE PREPARATION section of this manual.
These PVC parts should be assembled with ASTM D-2564 grade cement.
A sediment trap shall be installed as close to the inlet of the water
heater as practical at the time of water heater installation. The
sediment trap shall be either a tee fitting with a capped nipple in the
bottom outlet or other device recognized as an effective sediment
trap. If a tee fitting is used, it shall be installed in conformance with
one of the methods of installation shown in Figures 12 and 13.
Assemble Vent Pipe Assemblies #1, #2 and #3 (See Figure 1) prior
to cementing. The preferred orientation of Vent Pipe Assembly #1
(Condensate U-Assembly) is shown in Figure 16. However this
assembly may be rotated to a different orientation as needed for the
specific installation requirements. Note the rotational orientation of
each part by marking a line several inches long across the joints.The
long tube of Vent Pipe Assembly #2 should be approximately vertical.
If it is found that either of the two pieces of pipe in Vent Pipe Assembly
#2 are too long for proper fit-up, then remove as little material as
possible to improve the fit-up. Keep in mind that the pipes will insert
slightly further into the elbows when cement is applied as it acts as
a lubricating agent. The vertical distance from the bottom of the
Condensate U-Assembly to the floor that supports the water heater
should be approximately 0.25" (0.64 cm), see Figure 16. Disassemble
the parts and cement back together using the alignment marks. After
the cement dries, attach the assembly to the blower and the water
heater exhaust using the supplied rubber boots and hose clamps.
Contaminants in the gas lines may cause improper operation of the
gas control valve that may result in fire or explosion. Before attaching
the gas line be sure that all gas pipe is clean on the inside. To trap
any dirt or foreign material in the gas supply line, a drip leg
(sometimes called a sediment trap) must be incorporated in the
piping. The drip leg must be readily accessible. Install in accordance
with the “Gas Piping” section. Refer to the current edition of the
National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54) or the Natural
Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1).
A condensate trap is incorporated in the bottom of this vent pipe assembly.
See the CONDENSATE section of this manual for further details.
VENTING
FIGURE 14.
FILLING THE WATER HEATER
15
U.S. HORIZONTAL VENT CLEARANCES
WARNING
VENT HOOD(S) MAY BE
EXTREMELY HOT
DURING OPERATION.
CANADIAN HORIZONTAL VENT CLEARANCES
FIGURE 15
Instructions on proper installation through a sidewall are provided
in Figure 15.
VENT PIPE TERMINATION
Plan the vent system layout so that proper clearances are
maintained from plumbing and wiring.
The first step is to determine where the vent pipe will terminate. See
Figures 15, 20 and 21. The vent may terminate through a sidewall
as shown in Figure 20 or through the roof as shown in Figure 21.
Vent pipes serving power vented appliances are classified by
building codes as "vent connectors". Required clearances from
combustible materials must be provided in accordance with
information in this manual under LOCATING THE NEW WATER
HEATER and INSTALLING THE WATER HEATER, and with the
National Fuel Gas Code and local codes.
The vent system must terminate so that proper clearances are
maintained as cited in local codes or the current edition of the National
Fuel Gas Code, (ANSI Z223.1, 12.9.1 through 12.9.4) or the Natural
Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA-B149.1).
16
of the existing venting system must be performed prior to any
installation work. Verify that the correct material as detailed above
has been used, and that the minimum or maximum vent lengths
and terminal location as detailed in this manual have been met.
Carefully inspect the entire venting system for any signs of cracks
or fractures, particularly at the joints between elbows and other
fittings and the straight runs of vent pipe. Check the system for
signs of sagging or other stresses in the joints as a result of
misalignment of any components in the system. If any of these
conditions are found, they must be corrected in accordance with
the venting instructions in this manual before completing the
installation and putting the water heater into service.
PLANNING THE VENT SYSTEM
Plan the route of the vent system from the discharge of the blower
to the planned location of the vent terminal.
1. Layout total vent system to use a minimum of vent pipe and elbows.
2. This water heater is capable of venting flue gases equivalent to
25' (7.6 m) of 2" pipe, 65' (19.8 m) of 3" pipe, or 128' (39.0 m) of
4" pipe as listed in Table 1.
TABLE 1
Number of
90° Elbows
1
2
3
4
5
6
2" Maximum
Pipe - ft. (m)
20 (6.1)
15 (4.6)
10 (3.0)
----
3" Maximum
Pipe - ft. (m)
60 (18.3)
55 (16.8)
50 (15.2)
45 (13.7)
40 (12.2)
35 (10.7)
4" Maximum
Pipe - ft. (m)
120 (36.6)
112 (34.1)
104 (31.7)
96 (29.3)
88 (26.8)
80 (24.3)
NOTE: A. For water heaters in locations with high ambient
temperatures (above 100°F) it is recommended that CPVC or
ABS pipe and fittings be used. B. A 22.5 degree elbow (2" vent
pipe) or a 45 degree elbow (3" and 4" vent pipe) with an installed
screen VENT TERMINAL must be used in all cases.
4. There will be some installations where condensate will be formed
in the horizontal runs of the vent system. This condensate will
run into the condensate boot attached to the blower and out the
fitting. The water heater is shipped with condensate hose that
attaches to the fitting on the condensate boot. No other Tee or
fitting is required. See Figures 17, 20 and 21.
The minimum vent lengths for each of the pipe sizes is one 90° on
top of the unit plus 2' (61 cm) of straight pipe and the appropriate
termination.
CONDENSATE
NOTE: The equivalent feet (m) of pipe listed above are exclusive
of the termination. That is, the termination, with an installed
screen, is assumed to be in the system and the remainder of the
system must not exceed the lengths discussed above.
This water heater is a condensing unit and requires a drain to be
located in close proximity to allow the condensate to drain safely. The
condensate drains from the unit at the exhaust tee located at the
bottom of the unit (see figure 16) and from two places on the blower
assembly (see figure 17). Condensate from this water heater is mildly
acidic. Please note that some local codes require that condensate is
treated by using a pH neutralizing filter prior to disposal.
3. The blower discharge adapter is made to accept only straight
sections of 2" pipe. To start, a minimum of 2 inches (5.1 cm) of
2" pipe must be attached to the blower discharge, see Figure 17.
If using 2" inch vent pipe:
A minimum of 2 inches (5.1 cm) must be attached to the blower
before the first elbow. After the first elbow add the additional
venting required for the installation. The total system cannot
exceed the lengths discussed above, where each elbow is
equal to 5 feet (1.5 m) of straight pipe.
NOTE: It is important that the condensate hose on the bottom of the
unit is not installed elevated above the clamp that is secured to the side
of the jacket, see figure 16. This must be true for the entire length of the
hose from the clamp to the exit into an appropriate drain. If these
instructions are not followed or if the condensate hose is blocked, water
will spill from the condensate trap. As with every water heater installation,
a drain pan should be used to prevent water damage to the surrounding
area. If necessary, a condensate pump with an incorporated reservoir
may be used to pump the water to an appropriate drain. To avoid
condensate spillage, select a pump with an overflow switch.
If using 3" or 4" inch vent pipe:
Two inches (5.1 cm) of pipe must be attached to the blower discharge
before adding a reducer to acquire the desired pipe diameter. An
appropriately sized 45 degree elbow (supplied locally-a schedule 40
DWV) vent terminal must be obtained with an equivalent screen
(supplied in vent kit). The total system cannot exceed the equivalent
pipe lengths discussed above where each elbow is equal to 5 feet
(1.5 m) of straight pipe (3" vent pipe) or 8 feet (2.4 m) of straight pipe
(4" vent pipe).
Caution must be used to ensure that the drain is free and clear of
debris and will not allow backflow through the condensate hose.
Consideration must be given to avoid freezing of the condensate
lines which could result in excessive build up of condensate inside
the water heater. Waterproof heat tape may be required to prevent
freezing of the condensate lines. Please ensure that the outlet of the
condensate drain does not create a slippery condition which could
lead to personal injury.
NOTE: This unit can be vented with PVC pipe materials (Cellular
Core ASTM-F891; DWV ASTM-D2665 or CSA B181.2; Schedule
40, 80, 120 ASTM-D1785 or CSA B137.3; or SDR Series ASTMD2241 or CSA B137.3), CPVC pipe materials (CPVC41 ASTMD2846 or CSA B137.6; Schedule 40, 80 ASTM-F441 or CSA
B137.6; or SDR Series ASTM-F442), ABS pipe materials
(Schedule 40 DWV ASTM-D2661 or CSA B181.1 or Schedule
40 DWV Cellular Core ASTM-F628). The fittings, other than the
TERMINATION should be equivalent to PVC-DWV fittings meeting
ASTM D-2665 (Use CPVC fittings, ASTM F-438 for CPVC pipe and
ABS fittings, ASTM D-2661/3311 for ABS pipe). If CPVC or ABS
pipe and fittings are used, then the proper cement must be used for
all joints, including joining the pipe to the Termination (PVC Material).
If local codes do not allow the use of the PVC termination when a
material other than PVC is used for venting, then an equivalent
fitting of that material may be substituted if the screen in the PVC
terminal is removed and inserted into the new fitting.
PVC Materials should use ASTM D-2564 Grade Cement; CPVC
Materials should use ASTM F-493 Grade Cement and ABS
Materials should use ASTM D-2235 Grade Cement.
If the water heater is being installed as a replacement for an existing
power vented heater in pre-existing venting, a thorough inspection
17
6. Make sure the ON/OFF switch is in the OFF position and that
the outer harness is connected from the blower control box to
the connector on the bottom side of the gas valve.
7. If the outer harness is not factory installed, make sure the ON/
OFF switch is in the OFF position and then connect the outer
harness from the blower control box to the connector on the
bottom side of the gas valve.
The condensate trap may be primed by filling the CONDENSATE
U-ASSEMBLY with tap water using the supplied hose while the water
heater is not operating. The system is fully primed when the hose is
lowered below the hose clamp on the side of the water heater and
water begins to flow out of the hose. In most installations the water
heater will self-prime the condensate trap during the first full heatup cycle. If a sound of air bubbling through water (gurgling) is heard
while the blower is operating after the first heat-up cycle, then turn
the unit off and contact your plumber or service representative.
If these instructions are not followed, the condensate build-up will
block the exhaust outlet, which will cause improper operation.
8. Do not plug in power cord until vent system is completely installed.
The Power Vent operates on 110-120 Vac. therefore a grounded
outlet must be within reach of the 6 foot (1.8 m) flexible power
cord supplied with the vent (See Figure 1). The power cord
supplied may be used on a unit only where local codes permit.
If local codes do not permit use of flexible power supply cord:
A. Make sure the unit is unplugged from the wall outlet. Remove
the plastic top cap. Remove screws and open panel on the
front of the control box on the blower.
CONDENSATE SYSTEM - FIGURE 16
Condensate is likely to form in the venting system attached to this water
heater. The vent pipe should be sloped downward away from the blower
assembly (not less than 1/8" (3.2 mm) nor greater than 1/2" (12.7 mm)
per foot (30 cm) maximum). If the vent piping is vented level or sloped
upwards away from the blower assembly, then adequate means for
draining and disposing of the condensate needs to be made by the
installer. In either case, a 3/8" drain hose should be connected to the
built-in drain port. Prior to operating the water heater, make sure the
removable cap is installed on the second drain port, see Figure 17.
B. Cut the flexible power cord, leaving enough to be able to make
connections. Remove the strain relief fitting from the box.
C. Install a suitable conduit fitting inside the enclosure.
D. Splice field wiring into existing wiring using code authorized
method (wire nuts, etc).
E. Be certain that neutral and line connections are not reversed
when making these connections.
BLOWER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
F. Ground heater properly. This water heater must be grounded
in accordance with the National Electrical Code NFPA 70 or
the Canadian Electrical Code C22.1 and/or local codes. These
must be followed in all cases.
1. This power vented water heater comes with the blower assembly installed.
2. After the unit is set in place, make sure the blower assembly is
still mounted securely. Also make sure that one of the drain
ports of the rubber boot vent adapter is capped off. Lastly, make
sure there is no damage to the blower.
3. Condensate drains from two locations on the blower assembly as
shown in figure 17. A condensate hose must be secured to form a
"trap" as shown in figure 17 for these condensate drain connections.
These two hoses may be connected together. The hose(s) should
be routed to a suitable drain. A fitting that may be used to join the
two hoses from the blower assembly is included in a supplied kit.
The water heater must be connected to a grounded metal,
permanent wiring system; or an equipment grounding
conductor must be run with the circuit conductors and
connected to the equipment grounding terminal or lead on
the water heater, see Figure 19.
G. Close the panel on the control box. Make sure that the access
panel is secured shut.
9. The blower discharge boot is made to accept only straight sections
of 2" pipe. To start off with an elbow, a short section of the furnished
pipe, a minimum of 2 inches (5.1 cm), must be cut and glued into
the end of the elbow that will mount on the discharge boot.
INSTALLATION OF VENT SYSTEM
Before beginning installation of piping system thoroughly read the
section of this manual VENT PIPE PREPARATION.
FIGURE 17.
If you are installing your system so that it vents through roof, please
refer to section titled INSTALLATION OF VERTICAL VENT SYSTEM.
4. Make sure there is no packing material in the inlet or discharge
of the blower.
5. Make sure that the plastic tubing is still attached from the air
pressure switch to the port on the blower housing. Make sure
the plastic tubing is not folded anywhere between the pressure
switch and the blower housing.
VENT TERMINAL INSTALLATION, SIDEWALL
1. Install the vent terminal by using the cover plate as a template to
mark the hole for the vent pipe to pass through the wall. BEWARE
OF CONCEALED WIRING AND PIPING INSIDE THE WALL.
18
2. If the Vent Terminal is being installed on the outside of a finished wall, it
may be easier to mark both the inside and outside wall. Align the holes
by drilling a hole through the center of the template from the inside
through to the outside. The template can now be positioned on the
outside wall using the drilled hole as a centering point for the template.
the wall plate over the pipe to stop against the vent terminal. Place a bead
of caulking (not supplied) around the gap between the pipe and cover plate.
Apply enough to fill some of the gap between the pipe and wall. Place some
of the caulking on the back of the plate to hold it against the wall after
installation. If the vent pipe is installed up to the wall, with a coupling on the
end against the wall opening, the pipe with the vent terminal can be prepared
for gluing before inserting through the wall. Slide the pipe through the wall
and insert into the coupling on the other side of the wall, making sure that
the vent terminal ends up pointed in the correct position, see Figure 18.
3. A) MASONRY SIDE WALLS
Chisel an opening approximately one half inch (1.3 cm) larger
than the marked circle.
B) WOODEN SIDE WALLS
Drill a pilot hole approximately one quarter inch (0.64 cm) outside of
the marked circle. This pilot hole is used as a starting point for a
saws-all or sabre saw blade. Cut around the marked circle staying
approximately one quarter inch (0.64 cm) outside of the line. (This
will allow the vent to easily slide through the opening. The resulting
gap will be covered up by the Vent Terminal cover plate.) Repeat this
step on inside wall if necessary.
SEQUENCE OF INSTALLATIONS, FIGURE 18
Cut a length of PVC pipe about 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) longer than the wall
thickness at the opening. Glue the vent terminal to this section of pipe. Slide
VENT TERMINATION - FIGURE 18.
CAUTION
LABEL ALL WIRES PRIOR TO DISCONNECTION WHEN SERVICING CONTROLS. WIRING ERRORS CAN CAUSE IMPROPER AND
DANGEROUS OPERATION. VERIFY PROPER OPERATION AFTER SERVICING.
POWER VENT WIRING SCHEMATIC - FIGURE 19.
19
INSTALLATION OF VENT SYSTEM, SIDEWALL
Provide support for all pipe protruding through the roof. All piping
should be properly secured. The vent system piping should be
supported every 5 feet (1.5 m) of vertical run and every 3 feet (91
cm) of horizontal run. All piping and fittings must be joined by the
proper procedures as described under: VENT PIPE
PREPARATION.
With the route of the venting system and selection of materials completed,
as discussed in the section of this manual titled PLANNING THE VENT
SYSTEM, the through the wall vent terminal in place and the first section
of piping, up to first elbow, installed at the blower it is time to complete
the installation of the venting system for the sidewall installation.
FIGURE 20
FIGURE 21
Before completing the installation of the venting system be sure to read
the sections of this manual discussing the proper method of cutting
and cementing PVC pipe and fittings: VENT PIPE PREPARATION.
IMPORTANT
It is recommended that the completion of the venting system start at
the blower assembly and run to the coupling on the inside wall of
the vent terminal, Figure18.
The vent system must terminate so that proper clearances are
maintained as cited in local codes or the current edition of the
National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1) or the Natural Gas and
Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA-B149.1) and as listed below:
The vent system piping should be supported every 5 feet (1.5 m)
of vertical run and every 3 feet (91 cm) of horizontal run. All piping
and fittings must be joined by the proper procedures as described
under: VENT PIPE PREPARATION.
1. Vent Termination must extend a minimum of 18 inches (46 cm) above
roof or 18 inches (46 cm) above the anticipated snow level to prevent
blockage of the vent termination, as shown in Figures 20 and 21.
INSTALLATION OF VERTICAL VENT SYSTEM
2. The venting system shall terminate at least four (4) feet (1.2 m)
from or one (1) foot (30 cm) above any gable, dormer or other
roof structure with building interior access; i.e., vent, window, etc.
A proper flashing or "BOOT" should be used to seal the pipe where
it exits the roof. The total vent system should not exceed the
equivalent feet of pipe as listed in Table 1.
3. The venting system shall terminate three (3) feet (91 cm)
above any forced air inlet located within ten feet (3.0 m).
20
VENT ATTENUATION ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
kit) that may be found at a local hardware store. Failure to properly
support the VAA and the surrounding vent pipe could create a
hazardous situation. DO NOT puncture any surface of the VAA.
The Vent Attenuation Assembly (VAA) is designed to provide a
reduction in fan noise created in the blower wheel. This installation of
this VAA is optional. Review directions thoroughly prior to installing
the new VAA. Please contact the manufacturer of the water heater as
shown in the instruction manual with any questions or for additional
product support.
5. Confirm that the hex plug is securely installed in the 1/2" fitting
found on the center of the VAA pipe. It is imperative that the plug
is secure and air tight to prevent any combustion gases escaping
into the room. If the plug is not securely tightened, remove and
reinstall using Teflon tape on the threads. Once installed along
with the rest of the vent configuration, make sure to operate the
unit through at least one heat up cycle to ensure there is no leakage
around the plug or any joints of the VAA or vent pipe system.
VENT ATTENUATION ASSEMBLY KIT PARTS LIST
The kit consists of the following items. If a part is missing, use the
contact information in the instruction manual to acquire missing
component(s).
• vent attenuation assembly
• flexible tubing
• hose barb
• hex plug (installed on VAA)
• instruction sheet
VENT ATTENUATION ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
The VAA is designed for both vertical and horizontal installations. The
vertical installation does not require the additional hose barb and flexible
tubing. However, the horizontal installation will require the hose barb
and flexible tubing to release condensate buildup from the VAA. See
instructions and diagrams that follow for a more detailed description.
FIGURE 22: Typical Vertical Installation
Horizontal VAA Installations
1. The VAA is designed to accept two inch PVC pipe into the adapters on
both ends. The VAA can be installed to the piping from either side
(there is no specific inlet or outlet). For optimum performance, install
VAA as close as possible to the blower assembly.
2. Use standard PVC cement (not included with kit) and glue the two
inch PVC pipe coming from the blower into the VAA. Make sure
the 1/2" fitting is on the bottom side of the VAA. This will be used
to run the condensate hose to a suitable drain. See typical vent
installation in Figure 23.
3. Perform the same sequence on the PVC pipe coming from the
exhaust side (vent terminal side) of the VAA.
4. Make sure the VAA and vent pipe is supported securely to a permanent
fixture (stud or wall). Use standard support straps (not supplied with
kit) that may be found at a local hardware store. Failure to properly
support the VAA and the surrounding vent pipe could create a
hazardous situation. DO NOT puncture any surface of theVAA.
5. Remove hex plug from the center pipe of the VAA. Locate the
hose barb and install into the 1/2" fitting on the center of the VAA.
Using Teflon tape on the threads, install hose barb into 1/2" fitting
securely. It is imperative that the hose barb is secure and tight to
prevent any combustion gases escaping into the room.
Vertical VAA Installations (Recommended)
1. The VAA is designed to accept two inch PVC pipe into the adapters
on both ends. The VAA can be installed to the piping from either side
(there is no specific inlet or outlet). For optimum performance, install
VAA as close as possible to the blower assembly.
6. Locate flexible tubing. Slide one end of tube over the hose barb
located on the center pipe of the VAA. The ridges on the hose
barb should prevent the tube from sliding off, however, to ensure
there are no leaks and possible dislocation from hose barb, use a
wire tie or hose clamp (not supplied with kit) and secure.
2. Use standard PVC cement (not included with kit) and glue the two
inch PVC pipe coming from the blower into the VAA.
3. Perform the same sequence on the PVC pipe coming from the
exhaust side (vent terminal side) of the VAA.
7. Take the other end of the flexible tubing and form an 8 inch (20 cm)
diameter circle approximately 3 feet (91 cm) down from the hose
barb located in the VAA. To ensure that the circle (loop) maintains
its shape, use two wire ties (not supplied with kit) to secure it.
4. Make sure the VAA and vent pipe is supported securely to a permanent
fixture (stud or wall). Use standard support straps (not supplied with
21
8. Take the end of the tube at the bottom of the floor and route it to
a suitable drain. This will provide an area where the condensate
can drain without affecting the area around the appliance.
9. Once installed along with the rest of the vent configuration,
make sure to operate the unit through at least one heat up
cycle to ensure there is no leakage around the hose barb or
any joints of the VAA or vent pipe system.
FIGURE 24: Typical Installation for Vertical Vent with 3 or 4 inch Pipe
Installation of VAA with 3 & 4 inch Pipe for Horizontal Vent
Some applications may require the use of 3 or 4 inch vent pipe for longer
vent lengths. Please refer to the Figure 25 as you review these instructions.
Refer back to the horizontal VAA installation steps but with the following
changes to the vent construction.
3 inch vent (Horizontal VAA Installations)
The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The
installer must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly and
the inlet into the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA, a short run of 2
inch vent pipe is required. From this point on, a 2 inch to 3 inch adapter
may be used. From the 2 inch to 3 inch adapter, the installer may use
up to 52 equivalent feet (15.8 m) of pipe. This is 8 equivalent feet (2.4
m) less than the original 60 equivalent feet (18.3 m) specified with
one elbow due to the 2 inch elbow instead of a 3 inch elbow required
for the vent from the blower to the inlet of the VAA, see Figure 25 for
typical installation.
FIGURE 23: Typical Horizontal Installation
Installation for VAA with 3 & 4 inch Pipe for Vertical Vent
Some applications may require the use of 3 or 4 inch vent pipe for
longer vent lengths. Please refer to the Figure 24 as you review
these instructions. Refer back to the vertical VAA installation steps
but with the following changes to the vent construction.
4 inch vent (Horizontal VAA Installations)
The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The installer
must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly and the inlet into
the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA a short run of 2 inch vent pipe is
required. From this point on, a 2 inch to 4 inch adapter may be used. From
the 2 inch to 4 inch adapter, the installer may use up to 102 equivalent feet
(31.1 m) of pipe. This is 18 equivalent feet (5.5 m) less than the original
120 equivalent feet (36.6 m) specified with one elbow due to the 2 inch
elbow instead of a 4 inch elbow required for the vent from the blower to
the inlet of the VAA, see Figure 25 for typical installation.
3 inch vent (Vertical VAA Installations)
The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The
installer must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly
and the inlet into the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA, a short run
of 2 inch vent pipe is required. Each of the short pieces of 2 inch
pipe entering and exiting the VAA must not exceed 6 inches (15 cm)
in length. From this point on, a 2 inch to 3 inch adapter may be
used. From the 2 inch to 3 inch adapter, the installer may use up to
65 equivalent feet (19.8 m) of pipe, see Figure 24 for typical
installation.
Remember to operate the unit for at least one heat cycle to ensure
there are no air leaks in the vent joints of the VAA and the vent pipe
system. Air leaks will allow flue gas by-products to disseminate into
the room creating an unsafe environment and could cause illness,
asphyxiation and/or even death.
4 inch vent (Vertical VAA Installations)
The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The
installer must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly
and the inlet into the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA, a short run
of 2 inch vent pipe is required. Each of the short pieces of 2 inch
pipe entering and exiting the VAA must not exceed 6 inches (15 cm)
in length. From this point on, a 2 inch to 4 inch adapter may be
used. From the 2 inch to 4 inch adapter, the installer may use up to
128 equivalent feet (39.0 m) of pipe, see Figure 24 for typical
installation.
Remember to operate the unit for at least one heat cycle to
ensure there are no air leaks in the vent joints of the VAA and
the vent pipe system. Air leaks will allow flue gas by-products
to disseminate into the room creating an unsafe environment
and could cause illness, asphyxiation and/or even death.
FIGURE 25: Typical Installation for Horizontal Vent with 3 or 4 inch
22
PRIMER
VENT PIPE PREPARATION
It is recommended that Tetrahydrofuran (THF) be used to prepare
the surfaces of pipe and fittings for solvent welding. Do not use
water, rags, gasoline or any other substitutes for cleaning PVC or
CPVC surfaces. A chemical cleaner such as MEK may be used.
1. INITIAL PREPARATION
A.
Make sure the solvent cement you are planning to use is
designed for the specific application you are attempting.
B.
Know the physical and chemical characteristics and limitations of
the PVC and CPVC piping materials that you are about to use.
CEMENT
C.
Know the reputation of your manufacturer and their products.
D.
Know your own qualifications or those of your contractor. The
solvent welding technique of joining PVC and CPVC pipe is a
specialized skill just as any other pipe fitting technique.
E.
Closely supervise the installation and inspect the finished
job before start-up.
F.
Contact the manufacturer, supplier, or competent consulting
agency if you have any questions about the application or
installation of PVC and CPVC pipe.
G.
Take the time and effort to do a professional job. Shortcuts
will only cause you problems and delays in start-up. By far,
the majority of failures in PVC and CPVC systems are the
result of shortcuts and/or improper joining techniques.
The cement should be a bodied cement of approximately 500 to
1600 centipoise viscosity containing 10-20% (by weight) virgin PVC
material solvated with tetrahydrofuran (THF). Small quantities of
dimethyl formamide (DMF) may be included to act as a retarding
agent to extend curing time. Select the proper cement; Schedule
40 cement should be used for Schedule 40 pipe. Never use allpurpose cements, commercial glues and adhesives or ABS cement
to join PVC or CPVC pipe and fittings.
APPLICATORS
Select a suitable pure bristle type paint brush. Use a proper width
brush or roller to apply the primer and cement (see chart below).
Speedy application of cement is important due to its fast drying
characteristics. IMPORTANT NOTE: A dauber type applicator should
only be used on pipe sizes 2" and below. For larger diameter pipe, a
brush or roller must be used.
2. SELECTION OF MATERIALS
•
Cutting Device - Saw or Pipe Cutter
•
Deburring Tool, Knife, File, or Beveling Machine (2" and above)
•
Brush - Pure Bristle
•
Rag - Cotton (Not Synthetic)
•
Primer and Cleaner
•
Solvent Cement - PVC for PVC Components and CPVC for
CPVC Components
•
Containers - Metal or Glass to hold Primer and Cement. Select
the type of PVC or CPVC materials to be used on the basis of
their application with respect to chemical resistance, pressure
rating, temperature characteristics, etc.
•
RECOMMENDED BRUSH* SIZE FOR PRIMER
AND CEMENT APPLICATIONS
Nominal Pipe
(IPS)
2
3
Size Brush Width
1.5" (3.8 cm)
1.5" - 2.5" (3.8 cm - 6.4 cm)
*USE ONLY NATURAL BRISTLE
3. MAKING THE JOINT
Insertion Tool - Helpful for larger diameter pipe and fittings 6
inches (15.2 cm) and above.
A. Cutting
Pipe must be squarely cut to allow for the proper interfacing of
the pipe end and the fitting socket bottom. This can be
accomplished with a miter box saw or wheel type cutter. Wheel
type cutters are not generally recommended for larger diameters
since they tend to flare the corner of the pipe end. If this type of
cutter is used, the flare on the end must be completely removed.
NOTE: Power saws should be specifically designed to cut plastic pipe.
STEP A
23
B. Deburring
Use a knife, plastic pipe deburring tool, or file to remove burrs from the
end of small diameter pipe. Be sure to remove all burrs from around the
inside as well as the outside of the pipe. A slight chamfer (bevel) of about
10°-15° should be added to the end to permit easier insertion of the pipe
into the end of the fitting. Failure to chamfer the edge of the pipe may
remove cement from the fitting socket, causing the joint to leak.
STEP E
F. Joint assembly
Working quickly, insert the pipe into the fitting socket bottom and
give the pipe or fitting a 1/4 turn to evenly distribute the cement.
Do not continue to rotate the pipe after it has hit the bottom of the
fitting socket. A good joint will have sufficient cement to make a
bead all the way around the outside of the fitting hub. The fitting
will have a tendency to slide back while the cement is still wet so
hold the joint together for about 15 seconds.
STEP B
C. Test dry fit of the joint
Tapered fitting sockets are designed so that an interfaced fit should
occur when the pipe is inserted about 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into the
socket. Occasionally, when pipe fitting dimensions are at the tolerance
extremes, it will be possible to fully insert dry pipe to the bottom of the
fitting socket. When this happens, a sufficient quantity of cement
must be applied to the joint to fill the gap between the pipe and fitting.
The gap must be filled to obtain a strong, leak-free joint.
D. Inspection, cleaning, priming
Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting sockets and remove
all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag. If wiping fails to
clean the surfaces, a chemical cleaner must be used. Check for
possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace if necessary.
Depth-of-entry
Marking the depth of entry is a way to check if the pipe has reached
the bottom of the fitting socket in Step F. Measure the fitting depth
and mark this distance on the pipe O.D. You may want to add
several inches to the distance and make a second mark as the
primer and cement will most likely destroy your first one.
STEP F
G. Cleanup and joint movement
Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and fitting with
a dry cotton rag. This must be done while the cement is still soft.
The joint should not be disturbed immediately after the cementing
procedure, and sufficient time should be allowed for proper curing
of the joint. Exact drying time is difficult to predict because it
depends on variables such as temperature, humidity and cement
integrity. For more specific information, you should contact your
solvent cement manufacturer.
Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and fitting socket with a natural
bristle brush. This process softens and prepares the PVC or CPVC for
the solvent cementing step. Move quickly and without hesitation to
the cementing procedure while the surfaces are still wet with primer.
E. Application of solvent cement
• Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the outside of
the pipe at a width a little greater than the depth of the fitting socket.
• Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the
fitting socket. Avoid puddling.
• Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end.
STEP G
24
FOR YOUR SAFETY READ BEFORE OPERATING
WARNING:
If you do not follow these instructions exactly, a fire or
explosion may result causing property damage, personal injury or loss of
life.
BEFORE OPERATING: ENTIRE SYSTEM MUST BE FILLED WITH WATER AND AIR PURGED FROM ALL LINES.
A. This appliance does not have a pilot. It is equipped
with an ignition device which automatically lights the
burner. Do NOT try to light the burner by hand.
B. BEFORE OPERATING smell all around the appliance
area for gas. Be sure to smell next to the floor because
some gas is heavier than air and will settle on the floor.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU SMELL GAS:
• Do not try to light any appliance.
• Do not touch any electric switch;
Do not use any phone in your building.
• Immediately call your gas supplier from a neighbor’s
phone. Follow the gas supplier’s instructions.
•
If you cannot reach your gas supplier, call the fire
department.
C. Use only your hand to push in the gas control buttons.
Never use tools. If the control buttons will not push in,
don’t try to repair them, call a qualified service technician.
Force or attempted repair may result in a fire or explosion.
D. Do not use this appliance if any part has been under
water. Immediately contact a qualified installer or service
agency to replace a flooded water heater. Do not attempt
to repair the unit! It must be replaced!
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
4. This appliance is equipped with a device which
automatically lights the burner.
DO NOT TRY TO LIGHT THE BURNER BY HAND.
5. Wait five (5) minutes to
clear out any gas.
If you then smell gas,
STOP! Follow “B” in
the safety information above on this label. If you don’t
smell gas, go to the next step.
6. Turn on all electrical power to the appliance.
7. Set thermostat to desired setting by first pressing the
COOLER
and HOTTER
buttons together
and holding for 1 second. Then press the HOTTER
button.
8. If the appliance will not operate, follow the instructions
“TO TURN OFF GAS TO APPLIANCE” and call your
technician or gas supplier.
1.
STOP! Read the safety information above,
on this label.
9. WATER TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT
is approximately 120°F.
2. Set the thermostat to the lowest setting by first pressing
the COOLER
and HOTTER
buttons together
and holding for 1 second. Then press the COOLER
button until the WARM indicator light appears.
3. Set the “ON/OFF” switch on the blower control box to
the “OFF” position.
CAUTION: Hotter water increases the risk
of scald injury. Consult the instruction
manual before changing temperature.
WARNING: TURN OFF ALL ELECTRIC
POWER BEFORE SERVICING
TO TURN OFF GAS TO APPLIANCE
1. Set the thermostat to the lowest setting by first pressing the COOLER
holding for 1 second. Then press the COOLER
and HOTTER
buttons together and
button until the WARM indicator light appears.
2. Set the ON/OFF switch on the blower control box to the “OFF” position.
3. Turn off all electric power to the appliance if service is to be performed.
25
TEMPERATURE REGULATION
Any water heater’s intended purpose is to heat water. Hot water is
needed for cleansing, cleaning, and sanitizing (bodies, dishes, clothing).
Untempered hot water can present a scald hazard. Depending on the
time element, and the people involved (adults, children, elderly, infirm,
etc.) scalding may occur at different temperatures.
cover should be installed over the thermostat to prevent tampering.
The water temperature setting was factory set at the lowest temperature;
button decreases temperature and
Pressing the “COOLER”
pressing the “HOTTER”
button increases the temperature.
Setting the water heater temperature at 120°F (49°C) (Approx. “ ”
mark on temperature setting of gas valve) will reduce the risks of
scalds. Some states require settings at specific lower temperatures.
It is recommended that lower water temperatures be used to avoid
the risk of scalding. It is further recommended, in all cases, that the
water temperature be set for the lowest temperature which satisfies
your hot water needs. This will also provide the most energy efficient
operation of the water heater.
To avoid any unintentional changes in water temperature settings,
the control has a tamper resistant feature for changing the temperature
setting. To change the temperature setting follow these instructions:
Figure 26 shows the approximate water temperatures produced at
various thermostat settings. Short repeated heating cycles caused
by small hot water uses can cause temperatures at the point of use
to exceed the thermostat setting by up to 30°F (17°C). If you
experience this type of use you should consider using lower
temperature settings to reduce scald hazards.
1. “Wake Up” the temperature indicators by holding down both
“COOLER” and “HOTTER” temperature adjustment buttons at the
same time for one second, see Figure 26. One or two of the
temperature indicators will light up. These indicators will only
remain on for 30 seconds if no further buttons are pressed. After
30 seconds the control will go back to “Sleep” mode.
Valves for reducing the point-of-use temperature by mixing cold and
hot water are available, see Figure 2. Also available are inexpensive
devices that attach to faucets to limit hot water temperatures. Contact
a licensed plumber or the local plumbing authority.
2. Release both of the temperature adjustment buttons.
a. To decrease the temperature press and release the “COOLER”
button until the desired setting is reached.
b. To increase the temperature press and release the “HOTTER”
button until the desired setting is reached.
NOTE: Holding down the button will not continue to lower or raise
the temperature setting. The button must be pressed and released
for each temperature change desired.
Should overheating occur or the gas supply fail to shut off, turn off
the manual gas control valve to the appliance.
HOT WATER CAN SCALD: Water heaters are intended to produce hot
water. Water heated to a temperature which will satisfy space heating,
clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing needs can scald
and permanently injure you upon contact. Some people are more likely
to be permanently injured by hot water than others. These include the
elderly, children, the infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone
using hot water in your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a
local code or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot
water tap, then you must take special precautions. In addition to using
the lowest possible temperature setting that satisfies your hot water needs,
a means such as a mixing valve, shall be used at the hot water taps used
by these people or at the water heater. Mixing valves are available at
plumbing supply or hardware stores, see Figure 2. Follow manufacturer’s
instructions for installation of the valves. Before changing the factory
setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in
this manual, see Figure 26.
Temperature Setting
C-Flashing = approx. 160°F (71°C)
C = approx. 150°F (66°C)
B = approx. 140°F (60°C)
A = approx. 130°F (54°C)
= approx. 120°F (49°C)
WARM = approx. 80°F (27°C)
Never allow small children to use a hot water tap, or to draw their
own bath water. Never leave a child or handicapped person
unattended in a bathtub or shower.
The water heater should be located in an area where the general
public does not have access. If a suitable area is not available, a
Display
ABC
FIGURE 26.
26
Time to Produce
2nd and 3rd Degree
Burns on Adult Skin
About 1/2 seconds
About 1-1/2 seconds
Less than 5 seconds
About 30 seconds
More than 5 minutes
-------------
FOR YOUR INFORMATION
START UP CONDITIONS
conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The
most common complaint associated with the anode rod is one of a
“rotten egg smell” in the hot water. The smell is a result of four factors
which must all be present for the odor to develop:
SMOKE/ODOR
It is not uncommon to experience a small amount of smoke and
odor during the initial start-up. This is due to burning off of oil from
metal parts, and will disappear in a short while.
a. A concentration of sulfate in the supply water.
b. Little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.
c. A sulfate reducing bacteria which has accumulated within the
water heater (this harmless bacteria is nontoxic to humans).
d. An excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is caused by the
corrosion protective action of the anode.
THERMAL EXPANSION
Smelly water may be eliminated or reduced in some water heater
models by replacing the anode(s) with one of less active material,
and then chlorinating the water heater tank and all water lines. Contact
the local water heater supplier or service agency for further information
concerning an Anode Replacement Kit and this chlorination treatment.
If the smelly water persists after the anode replacement and
chlorination treatment, we can only suggest that chlorination or aeration
of the water supply be considered to eliminate the water problem.
Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line
pressure, frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among
others, have installed devices such as pressure reducing valves,
check valves, back flow preventers, etc. to control these types of
problems. When these devices are not equipped with an internal
by-pass, and no other measures are taken, the devices cause the
water system to be closed. As water is heated, it expands (thermal
expansion) and closed systems do not allow for the expansion of
heated water.
Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected. By doing
so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.
“AIR” IN HOT WATER FAUCETS
The water within the water tank expands as it is heated and
increases the pressure of the water system. If the relieving point
of the water heater ’s temperature-pressure relief valve is
reached, the valve will release the excess pressure. The
temperature-pressure relief valve is not intended for the
constant relief of thermal expansion. This is an unacceptable
condition and must be corrected. It is recommended that any
devices installed which could create a closed system have a
by-pass and/or the system have an expansion tank or device to
relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the water
system. Expansion tanks are available for ordering through a
local plumbing contractor. Contact the local water heater supplier
or service agency for assistance in controlling these situations.
HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water
system that has not been used for a long period of time (generally
two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable and
explosive. To prevent the possibility of injury under these conditions,
we recommend the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be
opened for several minutes before any electrical appliances which
are connected to the hot water system are used (such as a
dishwasher or washing machine). If hydrogen gas is present, there
will probably be an unusual sound similar to air escaping through
the pipe as the hot water faucet is opened. There must be no
smoking or open flame near the faucet at the time it is open.
STRANGE SOUNDS
Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some metal
parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not necessarily
represent harmful or dangerous conditions.
Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner area
during heating and cooling periods and should be considered normal.
See “Condensate” in this section.
HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE SHUT OFF SYSTEM
This water heater is equipped with an automatic gas shut-off system.
This system works when high water temperatures are present. Turn
“OFF” the entire gas supply to the water heater. The high temperature
shut-off is built into the gas control valve. It is non-resettable. If the
high temperature shut-off activates, the gas control valve must be
replaced. Contact your gas supplier or service agency.
OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS
SMELLY WATER
In each water heater there is installed at least one anode rod (see
parts section) for corrosion protection of the tank. Certain water
27
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
VENTING SYSTEM INSPECTION
characteristics and ignition sequences. This can be done by
removing the Outer Door and viewing the main burner operation
through the Viewport on the Inner Door, see Figure 1. The main
burner should provide complete combustion of gas, ignite rapidly,
give reasonably quiet operation, and cause no excessive flame
lifting from the burner ports. If the proper flame characteristics are
not evident (see Figure 27), make sure that the flow of combustion
and ventilation air is not blocked.
You should also check for sooting. Soot is not normal and will impair
proper combustion. A visual inspection of the main burner and HSI igniter
assembly should also be done at least once a year, see Figure 27.
Soot build-up indicates a problem that requires correction before
further use. Turn “OFF” gas to water heater and leave off until repairs
are made, because failure to correct the cause of the sooting can
result in a fire causing death, serious injury, or property damage.
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the venting
system. You should look for:
FIGURE 27.
1. Obstructions which could cause improper venting. The
combustion and ventilation air flow must not be obstructed.
2. Damage or deterioration which could cause improper venting or
leakage of combustion products.
BURNER CLEANING
In the event your burner or burner air openings require cleaning,
turn the blower switch to the “OFF” position and allow the burner
to cool. Call a service agency to remove and clean the burner and
correct the problem that required the burner to be cleaned.
Be sure the vent piping is properly connected to prevent escape of
dangerous flue gasses which could cause deadly asphyxiation.
Obstructions and deteriorated vent systems may present serious
health risk or asphyxiation.
HOUSEKEEPING
Chemical vapor corrosion of the flue and vent system may occur if
air for combustion contains certain chemical vapors. Spray can
propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air conditioner
refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and sodium
chloride, waxes, bleach and process chemicals are typical
compounds which are potentially corrosive.
Vacuum around base of water heater for dust, dirt, and lint on a
regular basis.
If after inspection of the vent system you found sooting or deterioration,
something is wrong. Call the local gas utility to correct the problem
and clean or replace the flue and venting before resuming operation
of the water heater.
BURNER OPERATION AND INSPECTION
Flood damage to a water heater may not be readily visible or
immediately detectable. However, over a period of time a flooded
water heater will create dangerous conditions which can cause
DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE.
Contact a qualified installer or service agency to replace a flooded
water heater. Do not attempt to repair the unit! It must be replaced!
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the
main burner and the hot surface igniter assembly for proper flame
28
INSTALLED IN SUITABLE AREA: To insure sufficient ventilation and
combustion air supply, proper clearances from the water heater must
be maintained. See “Locating the New Water Heater” section.
Combustible materials such as clothing, cleaning materials, or
flammable liquids, etc. must not be placed against or adjacent to
the water heater which can cause a fire.
When checking the temperature-pressure relief valve operation,
make sure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the
temperature-pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) that the
water discharge will not cause any property damage, as the water
may be extremely hot, see Figure 28.
ANODE ROD INSPECTION
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and
continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to
the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the
temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
If the temperature-pressure relief valve on the appliance weeps or
discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion. You
may have a check valve installed in the water line or a water meter
with a check valve. Consult your local water supplier or service
agency for further information. Do not plug the temperaturepressure relief valve.
The anode rod is used to protect the tank from corrosion. Most hot
water tanks are equipped with an anode rod. The submerged rod
sacrifices itself to protect the tank. Instead of corroding the tank,
water ions attack and eat away the anode rod. This does not affect
the water’s taste or color. The rod must be maintained to keep the
tank in operating condition.
DRAINING
Anode deterioration depends on water conductivity, not necessarily
water condition. A corroded or pitted anode rod indicates high water
conductivity and should be checked and/or replaced more often than
an anode rod that appears to be intact. Replacement of a depleted
anode rod can extend the life of your water heater. Inspection should
be conducted by a qualified technician, and at a minimum should be
checked annually after the warranty period.
TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE OPERATION
The water heater should be drained if being shut down during
freezing temperatures. Also periodic draining and cleaning of
sediment from the tank may be necessary.
1. Set the blower switch to the “OFF” position.
2. CLOSE the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
3. OPEN a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to allow for
draining.
4. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate to an adequate
drain.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated
at least once a year.
5. OPEN the water heater drain valve to allow for tank draining.
NOTE: If the water heater is going to be shut down and
drained for an extended period, the drain valve should be
left open with hose connected allowing water to terminate
to an adequate drain.
6. CLOSE the drain valve.
7. Follow instructions in the “Filling The Water Heater” section.
8. Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see “Lighting
Instructions” in this manual to restart the water heater.
FIGURE 28.
29
SERVICE
If a condition persists or you are uncertain about the operation of
the water heater contact a service agency.
If you are not thoroughly familiar with gas codes, your water heater,
and safety practices, contact your gas supplier or qualified installer
to check the water heater.
Use this guide to check a “Leaking” water heater. Many
suspected “Leakers” are not leaking tanks. Often the source of
the water can be found and corrected.
Read this manual first. Then before checking the water heater make
sure the gas supply has been turned “OFF”, and never turn the gas
“ON” before the tank is completely full of water.
LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS
Never use this water heater unless it is completely filled with water.
To prevent damage to the tank, the tank must be filled with water.
Water must flow from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas
to the water heater.
B
A *Condensation may be seen on pipes in humid weather or pipe
connections may be leaking.
D
B. *The anode rod fitting may be leaking.
C
C. Small amounts of water from temperature-pressure relief valve
may be due to thermal expansion or high water pressure in your
area.
D. *The temperature-pressure relief valve may be leaking at the
tank fitting.
E . Water from a drain valve may be due to the valve being slightly
opened.
F. *The drain valve may be leaking at the tank fitting.
F
G. Combustion products contain water vapor which can condense
on the cooler surfaces of the tank. Droplets form and drip onto
the burner or run on the floor. This is common at the time of
start-up after installation and when incoming water is cold.
G
E
H . Water in the water heater bottom or on the floor may be
from condensation, loose connections, or the relief valve.
DO NOT replace the water heater until a full inspection of
all possible water sources is made and necessary
corrective steps taken.
Leakage from other appliances, water lines, or ground seepage
should also be checked.
*
30
To check where threaded portion enters tank, insert cotton swab
between jacket opening and fitting. If cotton is wet, follow
“Draining” instructions in the “Periodic Maintenance” section and
then remove fitting. Put pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads
and replace. Then follow “Filling the Water Heater” instructions
in the “Installing the New Water Heater” section.
REPAIR PARTS LIST
Key No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
5
Part Description
Outer Door
Aluminum Anode
Intellivent Control
Plastic Top
Blower Assembly
Switch and Harness Assembly
T&P Valve
Drain Valve
Wiring Harness
Aluminum Anode Outlet
Vent Pipe Assembly #1
Vent Pipe Assembly #2
Vent Pipe Assembly #3
Inlet Tube
Pipe Nipple
Burner Tube Assembly
Hot Surface Igniter
Burner Head Assembly
Embossed Inner Door
Insulation - Inner Door
Insulation - Viewport
Window - Observation
Viewport
Nut - Serrated Hex Flange
Screw - Sheet Metal, # 8-15
Orifice - Burner
Vent Kit Assembly
Wall Plate 2”
Wall Plate 3”
Screen and Vent Terminal Assembly
Instruction Tag-Wire Screen F/E 3”
Instruction Tag-Wire Screen F/E 4”
Instruction Sheet
Wire Screen 3”
Wire Screen 4”
Wall Plate 4”
Flexible Tubing
Reducing Hose Barb Tee
Hose Barb Tee
4
14
15
6
2
13
7
10
12
9
3
8
11
1
18
16
17
26
16
25
24
20
* Not Shown.
* * Optional
21
23
Now that you have purchased this water heater, should a need ever
exist for repair parts or service, simply contact the company it was purchased
from or direct from the manufacturer listed on the rating plate on the water
heater.
22
24
27
34
35
19
25
28
38
39
Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.
Selling prices will be furnished on request or parts will be
shipped at prevailing prices and you will be billed accordingly.
The model number of your Gas Water Heater will be found on the
rating place located above the gas control valve.
29
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
31
•
•
•
•
33
MODEL NUMBER
TYPE GAS (NATURAL OR PROPANE (L.P.)
SERIAL NUMBER
PART DESCRIPTION
THIS IS A REPAIR PARTS LIST, NOT A PACKING LIST. PARTS
ARE NOT DRAWN TO SCALE.
32
30
37
36
31
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Please check guidelines below. For your safety, water heater service should be performed only by a qualified service technician.
Read the GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION section first.
INTELLI-VENT TROUBLESHOOTING CHART - RESIDENTIAL CONTROL
#
LED STATUS
A B C
1
A B C
2
PROBLEM
SOLUTION
Inadequate or no earth ground
sensed by the Intelli-Vent™
control.
1. Ensure the wall outlet is properly grounded.
2. Ensure all ground connections/wires on the
water heater are secure.
Power supply to Intelli-Vent™
control has reversed polarity or a
high resistance to earth ground.
1. Ensure the wall outlet is properly wired.
2. Ensure all internal 120 VAC wiring connections and
wiring harness have no reversed wires. 120 VAC
“hot” wire must connect to the on/off switch.
3. Ensure the wall outlet is properly grounded.
4. Ensure all ground connections/wires on the water
heater are secure.
A B C
WATER HEATER CONTROL
3
Pressure switch circuit remaining
closed for more than 5 seconds
after heating cycle begins.
Blower does not start.
Service Note:
Disconnect power - disconnect one
wire from the air pressure switch
or the vent temperature limit
switch. Turn power back on blower should start.
A B C
4
Pressure switch circuit remains open
longer than 5 seconds after the blower
is energized.
Blower may run continuously in
this condition.
1. Ensure air pressure switch circuit wiring is correct
and the air pressure switch is not jumpered.
2. Secure power to water heater, check continuity of air
pressure switch contacts with wires disconnected.
A If pressure switch contacts show continuity (closed
circuit) replace the pressure switch.
B If pressure switch contacts are open and all wiring
is correct - turn the power off for 10-20 seconds
then on again to clear the error code - if the error
code persists replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.
1. Ensure the blower is running - check for 120 VAC to
the blower when the heating cycle begins, check the
wiring. If the control does not energize the blower replace the Intelli-Vent™ control. If the blower fails to
start when energized - replace the blower assembly.
2. Ensure the air pressure switch sensing tube is properly
connected - not kinked or damaged.
3. Check continuity of vent temperature limit switch - replace
switch if contacts remain open under 160ºF (71°C).
Service Note:
To learn more about performing Air
Pressure Switch tests visit our website
www.statewaterheaters.com to download
technical bulletin S-024-06 Air Pressure
Switches.
4. Ensure the correct size of vent pipe (2”, 3”, 4”) was used
per installation manual for vent length. Ensure maximum
number of elbows or equivalent feet of vent pipe has not
exceeded maximum limits.
5. Ensure there are no obstructions in the vent pipe.
6. Check air pressure switch performance - check pressure
with a digital manometer - check continuity of contacts.
(see service note in left column) If the switch proves
defective - replace the air pressure switch and or the
blower assembly as required.
7. If air pressure switch performance test results prove
the air pressure switch is working properly and error
code 4 persists - replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.
A B C
5
The Intelli-Vent™ control has detected
an open ignitor circuit.
1. Check wiring to the hot surface ignitor - replace ignitor
assembly if wiring is damaged or worn.
Service Note:
The resistance (ohms) of a hot surface
ignitor will increase over time. If the
resistance at room temperature is near
18.8 ohms - consider replacing the ignitor
as a preventative measure.
2. Check ignitor assembly plug and the socket on the
Intelli-Vent™ body for good connection. Replace
ignitor assembly and/or control if necessary.
3. Check resistance of ignitor at room temperature 77ºF
(25°C) at the plug end. Replace ignitor if resistance
is not within 11.5 and 18.8 ohms at room temperature.
4. If results from the above tests were good and error
code 5 persists - replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.
32
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Please check guidelines below. For your safety, water heater service should be performed only by a qualified service technician.
Read the GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION section first.
INTELLI-VENT TROUBLESHOOTING CHART - RESIDENTIAL CONTROL
#
LED STATUS
A B C
PROBLEM
SOLUTION
Ignition/flame failure.
6
The water heater has reached the
maximum number of retries and is
currently locked out for one hour.
Cycle the power to the water heater
off and on to reset.
Service Note:
The resistance (ohms) of a hot surface
ignitor will increase over time. If the
resistance at room temperature is near
18.8 ohms - consider replacing the ignitor
as a preventative measure.
1. Gas supply is turned off - pressure too low. Ensure
supply and manifold gas pressures are within
requirements in the installation manual. Manifold gas
pressure is non-adjustable if pressure is off by more
than 0.3” W.C. (75 Pa) replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.
2. Low supply voltage - should be 115 -125 VAC.
3. Ensure flame sensor is making good contact with the
burner flame, ensure flame is steady see #8 below.
4. Ensure the flame sensor is clean - use ultra fine steel
wool or Scotch-Brite™ pad to clean flame sensor.
5. Ensure the hot surface ignitor is positioned to provide
consistent ignition.
WATER HEATER CONTROL
6. Check for any cracks in ignitor assembly ceramic
insulators - replace ignitor assembly if damaged.
7. Check resistance of ignitor at room temperature (77ºF)
(25°C) at the plug end. Replace ignitor if resistance is
not within 11.5 and 18.8 ohms at room temperature.
8. Ensure the correct size of vent pipe (2”, 3”, 4”) was
used per installation manual for vent length. Using larger
pipe than required may cause excessive air turbulance
in the combustion chamber.
A B C
7
Self diagnostic tests have found a problem
with the gas valve driver circuit, internal
microprocessor, or other internal circuits.
1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds then on again to
clear these error codes.
2. If any of these error codes persist or cannot be clearedreplace the Intelli-Vent™ control.
A B C
8
A B C
9
A B C
10
Flame signal has been sensed out of
proper sequence.
1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds and then on again
again to clear this error code.
2. Replace the Intelli-Vent™ control if this error code persists.
A B C
11
Water temperature in the tank has
exceeded 195°F (91°C) and has
activated the ECO.
1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds then on again
to clear this error code.
2. Replace the Intelli-Vent™ if the error code persists.
12
13
A B C
A B C
The self diagnostic check detected one
or both of the temperature adjust buttons
are stuck.
1. Press and release temperature adjust buttons. If the
above action does not clear the error, the control will
continue to regulate water temperature at the last setting.
However, settings will no longer be adjustable - the
control should be replaced.
The self diagnostic test has detected the
water temperature sensor (thermistor) is
either open or shorted.
1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds then on again
to clear this error code.
2. Replace the Intelli-Vent™ control if this error code persist.
33
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES
These guidelines should be utilized by a qualified service agent.
PROBLEM
NOT ENOUGH HOT WATER
VENT PIPE TOO HOT (ABOVE 170° F [ 77° C ])
YELLOW FLAME
CAUSE
1.) Blower will not run.
a. “ON/OFF” control switch turned off.
b. Blower unplugged.
c. No power at outlet.
d. Thermostat defective.
e. Control harness defective.
f. High limit control circuit open.
g. Blower motor defective.
2.) Thermostat problems
a. Thermostat set too low.
b. Thermostat or ECO defective.
3.) Others
a. Heater undersized.
b. Low gas pressure.
c. Incoming water is usually cold.
d. Leaking hot water pipes of fixtures.
e. Heater not lit or thermostat not on.
Wrong burner orifice.
Dirt in burner ports.
Combustion air path restricted.
Water on the floor under heater.
CONDENSATION
WATER LEAKS
Water dripping from blower assembly.
Improperly sealed, hot or cold supply
connections, relief valve, drain valve or
thermostat threads.
Leakage from other appliances or water lines.
Condensation of flue products.
Thermal expansion in closed water system.
LEAKING T & P
Improperly sealed valve.
HOT WATER ODORS
(refer to cathodic protection)
WATER TOO HOT
High sulfate or mineral content in water
supply.
Bacteria in water supply.
Thermostat set too high.
WATER HEATER SOUNDS
Condensation dripping on burner.
SIZZLING - RUMBLING
Sediment at bottom of heater tank.
SOOTING
BURNER WILL NOT STAY LIT –
GOES OUT 4-5 SECONDS
VENT GAS ODORS
Improper combustion.
Outlet polarity is reversed.
High ambient room temperature.
Combustion air path restricted.
Defective gas valve.
Lack of air supply.
Improperly installed vent piping.
Downdraft
Poor Combustion
34
SOLUTION
Turn switch to the “ON” position.
Plug blower back into 115 VAC outlet.
Repair service to outlet.
Replace thermostat.
Replace control harness.
Replace thermostat.
Replace blower assembly.
Adjust temperature control higher.
Replace thermostat.
Reduce hot water use.
Contact dealer.
Allow more time for heater to reheat.
Have plumber check and repair leaks.
Refer to LIGHTING INSTRUCTIONS.
Install correct orifice.
Turn off heater and gas, clean burner head.
Check exhaust venting and air openings in
bottom base pan for obstructions or blockage.
See CONDENSATION section.
Provide drip “TEE” to catch condensation, see
Figure 1.
Check for leaks at all condensate points. See
Figure 1. Also see LEAK CHECKPOINTS
section.
Inspect other appliances near water heater.
Refer to CONDENSATION section.
Install thermal expansion tank (Do not plug
T&P valve).
Check relief valve for proper operation (Do
not plug T&P valve).
Drain and flush heater thoroughly then refill.
Chlorinate water supply.
Refer to TEMPERATURE REGULATION
section.
Refer to CONDENSATION above.
Clean sediment from tank. Refer to
DRAINING.
Refer to Air Requirements.
Test polarity and correct.
Contact a service agency to determine cause.
Check exhaust venting and air openings in
bottom base pan for obstructions or blockage.
Replace gas valve.
Shut off water heater immediately and contact
a service agency to determine cause.
LIMITED RESIDENTIAL GAS WARRANTY
b. Shipping and delivery charges for forwarding the new water heater or
replacement part from the nearest distributor and returning the claimed
defective heater or part to such distributor except in the state of
California where such charges are the manufacturer’s responsibility.
c. All cost necessary or incidental for handling and administrative
charges, and for any materials and/or permits required for
installation of the replacement heater or part.
THIS WARRANTY IS APPLICABLE TO THE ORIGINAL OWNER ONLY.
If the glass lined tank in this water heater shall prove upon examination by
(the warrantor) to have leaked during the warranty period in normal residential
use, due to natural corrosion from potable water therein, the warrantor will
furnish the ORIGINAL OWNER a replacement water heater of equivalent
size and current model, or a replacement part for any component part which
fails in normal use, in accordance with the warranty terms and conditions
specified below. THE WATER HEATER REPLACEMENT MODEL OR PART
WILL BE WARRANTED FOR ONLY THE UNEXPIRED PORTION OF THE
ORIGINAL WARRANTY. The warranty period will be determined by the
original installation date of the water heater. PROOF-OF-PURCHASE AND
PROOF-OF-INSTALLATION ARE NECESSARY TO VALIDATE THIS
WARRANTY. This warranty is not transferable.
LIMITATION ON IMPLIED WARRANTIES
Implied warranties, including any warranty of merchantability imposed on
the sale of this heater under state law are limited to one year duration for the
heater or any of its parts. Some states do not allow limitations on how long
an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitations may not apply to you.
CLAIM PROCEDURE
WARRANTY PERIOD
Product Line
TANK1
PARTS2
GP650YTVIT
6 YEARS
6 YEARS
Any claim under this warranty should be initiated with the dealer who
sold the heater, or with any other dealer handling the warrantor’s products.
The warrantor will only honor replacement with identical or similar
water heater or parts thereof which are manufactured or distributed
by the warrantor.
When the water heater has been used for other than single family
residential application: 1. The Tank warranty shall be reduced to 3 years
on 10 year models and 1 year on 6 and 8 year models. 2. The parts
warranty shall be reduced to 1 year for all models. Returned parts which
meet any of the following conditions are not covered by this warranty: 1)
improper installation or removal; 2) damaged by other than normal wear;
3) replaced for cosmetic purposes; or 4) returned with defaced date codes.
Dealer replacements are made subject to in-warranty validation by
warrantor.
PROOF-OF-PURCHASE AND PROOF-OF-INSTALLATION DATES
ARE REQUIRED TO SUPPORT WARRANTY FOR CLAIM FROM
ORIGINAL OWNER. THIS FORM DOES NOT CONSTITUTE PROOFOF-PURCHASE OR PROOF-OF-INSTALLATION.
CONDITIONS AND EXCEPTIONS
This warranty shall apply only when the water heater is installed and
operated in accordance with: 1) all local fire codes and plumbing codes,
ordinances and regulations; 2) the printed instructions provided with it;
3) good industry practices; and 4) proper safety practices such as but
not limited to a properly sized drain pan if installed in an area where
leakage from connections of the tank would result in damage to the
area adjacent to the heater. In addition, a new temperature and pressure
relief valve, certified by the Canadian Standards Association must have
been properly installed and piped to the nearest drain.
DISCLAIMERS
NO EXPRESS WARRANTY HAS BEEN OR WILL BE MADE IN BEHALF
OF THE WARRANTOR WITH RESPECT TO THE MERCHANTABILITY
OF THE HEATER OR THE INSTALLATION, OPERATION, REPAIR OR
REPLACEMENT OF THE HEATER OR PARTS. THE WARRANTOR SHALL
NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR WATER DAMAGE, LOSS OF USE OF THE
UNIT, INCONVENIENCE, LOSS OR DAMAGE TO PERSONAL PROPERTY,
OR OTHER CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGE. THE WARRANTOR SHALL
NOT BE LIABLE BY VIRTUE OF THIS WARRANTY OR OTHERWISE FOR
DAMAGE TO ANY PERSONS OR PROPERTY, WHETHER DIRECT OR
INDIRECT, AND WHETHER ARISING IN CONTRACT OR IN TORT.
This warranty shall apply only when the heater is:
• owned by the original purchaser;
• used at temperatures not exceeding the maximum calibrated
setting of its thermostat;
• not subjected to excessive water pressure fluctuations and not
subject to an operating pressure greater than 150 P.S.I.;
• filled with potable water, free to circulate at all times and with the
tank free of damaging water sediment or scale deposits;
• used in a non-corrosive and non-contaminated atmosphere;
• used with factory approved anode(s) installed;
• in its original installation location;
• in the United States and its territories or possessions or Canada;
• sized in accordance with proper sizing techniques for residential
water heaters;
• bearing a rating plate which has not been altered, defaced or
removed except as required by the warrantor;
• used in an open system or in a closed system with a properly
sized and installed thermal expansion tank;
• fired at the factory rated input using the fuel stated in the face of
the rating plate;
• operated with the inner and outer combustion chamber doors
in place;
• maintained in accordance with the instructions printed in the
manual included with the heater.
Some states do not allow the limitation or exclusion of incidental or
consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not
apply to you.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have
other rights which vary from state to state. Should governmental
regulations or industry standards prohibit the Manufacturer from furnishing
a comparable model replacement under this warranty, the Owner will be
furnished with the closest comparable water heater meeting the current
governmental regulations and industry standards. A supplementary fee
may be assessed to cover the additional cost associated with the changes
made to meet applicable regulations and standards.
Fill out and keep with water heater.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Model Number____________________________________________
Any accident to the water heater or any part thereof (including freezing,
fire, floods, or lightning), any misuse, abuse or alteration of it, any
operation of it in a modified form, or any attempt to repair tank leaks
or parts, will void this warranty.
Serial Number_____________________________________________
SERVICE AND LABOR RESPONSIBILITY
Company’s Name _________________________________________
Installation Information:
Date Installed _____________________________________________
UNDER THIS LIMITED WARRANTY, THE WARRANTOR WILL
PROVIDE ONLY A REPLACEMENT WATER HEATER OR PART
THEREOF. THE OWNER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL OTHER COSTS.
Such costs may include but are not limited to:
a. Labor charges for service, removal, or reinstallation of the water
heater or part thereof.
Street or P.O. Box _________________________________________
City, State, and Zip Code ___________________________________
Phone Number _______________Plumber’s Name_______________
35
36
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