enCORE™ ENGINEERED HARDWOOD INSTALLATION

enCORE™ ENGINEERED HARDWOOD INSTALLATION
enCORE™ ENGINEERED HARDWOOD INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Important Information Before You Begin
It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you read and understand
this information completely prior to starting, since improper
installation can void the warranties.
Installer/Owner Responsibility
Carefully inspect ALL material prior to installation for defects.
Materials installed with visible defects are not covered under
warranty. Remember – Wood is a natural product that can vary in
color, grain, and contains natural characteristics that varies from
plank to plank and is to be expected. We do not warrant against these
natural variations from plank to plank or variations from sample to
plank. Remember – If you are not satisfied with the flooring prior to
installation, simply return the cartons to your dealer for a full
replacement. Accepting or rejecting the material must be done on full
shipment of quantities only, not carton by carton or plank by plank.
Material is manufactured to exceed industry standards (ANSI/HPVA
EF 2002).
We urge you, as the final inspector to inspect for proper color,
finish, style, and quality PRIOR to installation. Verify that the
flooring is the correct material. Care should be taken at this time
to remove or repair particular characteristics you do not desire.
Manufacturer declines responsibility for any costs incurred when
plank(s) with visible defects have been installed.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED
Broom or vacuum
Moisture Meter
Safety Glasses
Tape Measure
Hand Saw
Color Wood Filler
Chalk Line & Chalk
Electric Miter Saw
Clean Green™
Hardwood Floor
Cleaner
Hammer
Pry Bar
CAUTION: WOOD DUST
The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified wood
dust as a nasal carcinogen. The sawing, sanding, and/ or machining of
wood products can produce wood dust that can cause respiratory, eye,
and skin irritations. Equipment should be equipped with a dust collector to
reduce airborne wood dust. Wear an appropriate NIOSH designated dust mask
to reduce exposure to airborne wood dust. Avoid contact with eyes and skin.
In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15
minutes.
For further technical or installation questions or to request a
Material Safety Data Sheet please call (864)-833-6250.
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PRE INSTALLATION & JOBSITE CONDITIONS
It is the installer/ owners’ responsibility to ensure that the jobsite
conditions and jobsite subfloor are environmentally and structurally
acceptable prior to the installation of any hardwood flooring. The
manufacturer declines any responsibility for failures or deficiencies
of hardwood flooring resulting from or related to sub-floor, subsurface, or job-site environmental conditions. All substrates must be
clean, flat, dry, and structurally sound.
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performance of a hardwood floor. Whenever possible install the
planks perpendicular to the floor joists for maximum stability.
Our warranties DO NOT cover any problems caused by
inadequate substructures or improper installation of said
substructures.
• Test wood sub floors and wood flooring for moisture content
using a pin-type moisture meter. The moisture content of the
subfloor should not exceed 12% and the moisture content of the
wood should be within 4% of the subfloor moisture content.
• The moisture content for concrete subfloors registered after a
calcium chloride test should not be greater than 3 pounds per
1000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits, DO NOT
install the flooring. Before moisture testing begins, the slab
must be cured for a minimum of 30 days.
• Basements and crawl spaces
must be dry. Use of a 6 mil
black polyethylene is required
to cover 100% of the crawl
space earth. Crawl space
clearance from ground to
underside of joist to be no less
than 18” and perimeter vent spacing should be equal to 1.5% of
the total square footage of the crawl space area to provide cross
ventilation. Where necessary, local regulations prevail.
• The subfloor must be flat, meeting a minimum of 3/16” within
10’ or 1/8” in 6’.
Concrete subfloors - Grind high spots or use a Portland-cementbased leveling material (minimum compressive strength 3000 psi) to
fill all low spots. Follow the leveling compound manufacturer’s
instruction. Leveling compounds must be allowed to thoroughly cure
and dry prior to installation of wood flooring.
Wood subfloors - For staple down application use layers of 15lb.
felt or wooden shims to fill low spots. Staples must be able to
penetrate for holding power.
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All “wet” work – i.e. – paint, drywall, concrete, masonry,
plumbing must be complete and dry well in advance of delivery
of hardwood flooring
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Gutters and downspouts should be in place and the exterior
grade complete to allow for proper drainage of water away from
the building’s exterior perimeter.
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Flooring should not be exposed to extremes of temperature,
humidity or moisture.
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Permanent HVAC should be on and operational a minimum of 5
days and maintained between 65 – 75 degrees and a relative
humidity of 35%- 55% prior to delivery, during, and after
installation of the flooring.
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If HVAC is not possible at time of installation the environmental
conditions must be at or near normal living conditions between
60 – 80 degrees and at the average yearly relative humidity for
the area.
It is the Installer/Owner responsibility to ensure that the conditions
are acceptable prior to the installation of the hardwood floors.
The manufacturer declines any and all problems with the hardwood
flooring that are related to or attributed to improper jobsite
conditions.
Recommended Subfloor Surfaces
Concrete subfloors: Concrete slabs should be of high compressive
Subfloors must be clean and free of dirt, curing compounds,
sealers, drywall mud, paint, wax, grease, urethane, or other
materials that may affect the integrity of the flooring material or
adhesives used to install the flooring.
All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound
and must be installed following their manufacturer's
recommendations. Local building codes may only establish
minimum requirements of the flooring system and may not
provide adequate rigidity and support for proper installation and
strength and constructed to prevent groundwater from permeating the
concrete. Engineered hardwood flooring can be installed on, above,
or below-grade. In addition, it can be installed over above-ground,
suspended concrete floors. The suspended concrete must be a
minimum of 1 1/2 inches thick and must be structurally sound. The
exception to this is lightweight concrete (which usually contains high
amounts of gypsum) having a density of 100 pounds or less per cubic
foot. Test for lightweight concrete by using a nail to scratch the
surface of the concrete. If the concrete crumbles or turns to powder, it
is not sound and you should NOT install the hardwood flooring. Use
the floating installation method (products 3” or wider) only for
lightweight concrete subfloors.
Wood Subfloors:
Preferred Subflooring ¾” (23/32”, 18.3 mm) CDX grade Plywood
subfloor/ underlayment (Exposure 1), 4’x8’ sheets or ¾” (23/32”,
18.3mm) OSB subfloor/ underlayment grade, PS2 rated, sealed side
down, with joist spacing of 19.2” (475) on center or less.
Minimum Subflooring - 5/8” (19/32, 15.1mm) CDX Plywood
subfloor/ underlayment (Exposure 1), 4’x8’ sheets, maximum 16” on
center joist construction.
Follow panel manufacturer’s recommendations for spacing and
fastening. Typical panel spacing and fastening for joist systems, 1/8”
(3.2mm) around perimeter and fastened every 6” (150mm) on bearing
edges and every 12”(300mm)along intermediate supports.
Installation of flooring should not be made over joists spacing greater
than 19.2 on center or parallel to the joists unless the subfloor has
been properly strengthened, applying a second layer of underlayment
may be necessary to bring the overall subfloor thickness to 1-1/8”.
• Test the moisture content of the wood subfloor and wood flooring
with a pin type moisture meter. Wood subfloors must not exceed
12% and the wood flooring should be within 4% of the wood
subfloor.
• For existing wood floors install new flooring at right angles to the
existing flooring.
• Do not glue, staple, or nail down hardwood flooring over particle
board, floating application is acceptable (products 3” or wider).
• Do not install over existing glue down hardwood floors.
Ceramic tile and terrazzo: All wax and sealers must be removed
with an appropriate cleaner/stripper. Ceramic tile and terrazzo should
be abraded to allow for proper adhesion. Check for loose tiles by
tapping and re-adhere. Fill grout lines with a cementitious latex
fortified leveling compound.
WARNING! DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE,
DRILL, SAW, BEADBLAST OR MECHANICALLY CHIP OR
PULVERIZE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING,
LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC “CUTBACK” ADHESIVES OR OTHER
ADHESIVES.
These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline
silica. Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and
respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos
fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm.
Unless positively certain that the product is a nonasbestos-containing
material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require
that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern
the removal and disposal of material.
See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI)
publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor
Coverings for detailed information and instructions on removing all
resilient covering structures. For current information go to www.rfci.com
The cork underlayment must be fully adhered to the subfloor. The
cork underlayment should be of pure granulated cork combined with
a polyurethane binder with a minimum density of 11.4 lbs. per cubic
foot and not to exceed 13 lbs. per cubic foot.
Pre installation/ Job Preparation
Inspect the Flooring – Inspect material for color, finish, milling, and
grade. Hold out pieces that may not be acceptable once installed.
PLEASE NOTE: We do not accept responsibility for any costs
incurred when plank(s) with visible defects have been
permanently installed.
Do Not open cartons until ready to begin the installation.
Undercut Door Casings - Undercut all door casings 1/16" higher
than the thickness of the flooring being installed. To do this, use a
scrap piece of flooring as a guide. Lay it on the substrate and cut the
casing with a handsaw or use a power jamb saw set at the correct
height.
Blending of Cartons- To achieve a uniform appearance across the
entire floor, we highly recommend that you open and work from
several cartons at a time and dry-lay the flooring, mixing the planks
from several cartons. This will allow you to blend the planks for
maximum aesthetic appearance. Make certain the room is well lit to
ensure color is consistent and that any visual defects can be seen and
removed.
Match Transition Moldings: For best appearances blend all
transitions and moldings to planks that have similar color and
graining. Set them aside for use as needed.
Layout of Flooring: “Racking the Floor” is essential to achieve a
random appearance. Start by either using random-length planks found
in the carton or by cutting four or five planks in random lengths,
differing by at least six inches. As you continue working across the
floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum between end joints.
Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
Never waste materials; the end cuts from starter rows should be used
at the opposite side of the room to complete rows or used to start the
next row.
Expansion space: Expansion space around the perimeter is
required and should be equal to the thickness of the flooring material.
For floating installation the minimum is ½” regardless of the
thickness of the material. For commercial installations use a
minimum of ½” expansion.
GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Additional tools & material needed:
Anderson Green Grab™ or 3X
Triple Option™ Adhesives
Rags
Straight edge
3/16”x 1/4”x 5/16” V notch
trowel
Odorless Mineral Spirits
NOTE:
Resilient tile, resilient sheet vinyl: Material must be full spread
and secured to the subfloor. Do not install over perimeter glued
floors. Do not install over more than one layer that exceeds 1/8” in
thickness.
Nail/ Staple Down Only - If old flooring is unsuitable to install new
flooring then overlay with new underlayment. Test to conclude that
the staples/ cleats are able to properly penetrate and secure the
flooring to the subfloor.
Glue Down Only – Do not install over more than one layer that
exceeds 1/8” in thickness. Clean flooring with an appropriate cleaner
and allow to thoroughly dry. If necessary degloss the floor using an
abrasive pad to enhance the bonding of the adhesive, if wax or other
coatings are present, completely remove the material with a quality
stripper, rinse the floor and allow to dry. Always check for proper
adhesion bond prior to installing.
Acoustic Cork Underlayment: (Glue Down Only) – Install
the cork underlayment according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Before you begin using the
following instructions, please
refer to the Pre-Installation Job
Prep information above.
When installing engineered plank allow 10 minutes advance cure or
“flash off” time. Working time is approximately 50-60 minutes under
acceptable temperature & humidity conditions. Adhesive must
transfer 100% to the wood floor. If substrate is non-porous, a longer
advance cure or “flash off” time may be necessary. Occasionally lift a
piece of wood to assure adhesive is achieving 100% transfer.
Getting Started
1. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be
straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at
each end, the width of two planks including the tongue plus the space
needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion.
2. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
3. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge inside the
chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from
shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece
of lumber or piece of flooring. Alternatively, the first row can be
face-nailed with
finishing nails
into the wood
subfloor or sprig
nailed into a
concrete
subfloor.
Spreading the
Adhesive:
Using the proper
trowel, hold the trowel at a 45° angle to ensure proper spread rate of
adhesive. Apply pressure to allow the trowel to leave ridges of
adhesive on the substrate with little adhesive left between the ridges.
This will help to achieve the proper spread rate of the adhesive.
Temperature and air flow across the adhesive can have an affect on
the open time of the adhesive.
Installing The Floor
4. Spread adhesive from the chalk line/straightedge out to
approximately the width of two planks. Install the first row of starter
planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with
the tongue facing the starter wall.
areas where additional curing time is required, more time may be
needed.
NAIL OR STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION
GUIDELINES
Additional Tools and Material Needed:
Drill
Air Hose
Tapping Block
In-line Air Regulator
15 lb. Roofers Felt
Staple – 3/16” crown
1” length
Compressor
Pneumatic Stapler –
Model Stanley-Bostich Floor
Runner – LHF 97125-2
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to
the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
Special Note:
THE PLANK ORIENTATION FOR THE HDF CORE
HARDWOOD 3/8" PRODUCT IS REVERSED FOR THE NAIL
DOWN INSTALLATION PROCESS. THE PLANKS WILL BE
PLACED WITH THE TONGUES FACING TOWARD THE
STARTING WALL. STAPLES WILL BE PLACED THROUGH
THE BOTTOM GROOVE EDGE OF THE PLANKS.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can
cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
When you have the starter rows complete, you can begin the next row
5. When you are certain the first two starter rows are straight and
secure, spread adhesive 2 to 3 feet wide across the length of the
room. As a general rule, never spread more adhesive than can be
covered in 30 to 45 minutes. If the adhesive has skinned over remove
dried adhesive and trowel new adhesive.
6. Continue to install planks and push them into place. Place the
tongue of the board into the grooves of installed boards and press into
the adhesive. As you continue working across the floor try to
maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly
install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping
or crackling when using staple-down or nail-down installation
methods. Some squeaking, popping or crackling is normal and
possible when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods.
These symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry
conditions.
NOTE: Never strike a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the
flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove. This practice can damage
the flooring and/or the finish.
7. Remove the adhesive from the surface of the installed flooring as
you work – this will help to save time. A damp rag with water or
mineral spirits will remove the adhesive. Frequently change towels to
avoid leaving a haze on the flooring surface.
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width
of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion space along the
end wall. Once the final cuts are made set planks into place.
9. After the floor is complete remove the straight edge and glue down
the first two boards.
10. Roll and cross roll floor with a 100-150 lbs. (45.36-68.04 kg)
roller at the end of the installation to ensure proper transfer of
adhesive.
10. Restrict foot traffic for a minimum of 8 hours and wait 24 hours
before permitting moving of furniture onto the floor.
11. Clean any wet adhesive from the flooring with a lightly
dampened clean cloth. If the adhesive has dried, use mineral spirits
on a clean cloth to remove adhesive residue.
Final Inspection: After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the
floor for nicks, scratches, gaps or planks that may have moved during
installation, as well as any other imperfections that need attention.
Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products. In typical
climates, the new floor can accept foot traffic within 24 hours. In
SET UP AND USE OF PNEUMATIC STAPLERS AND
NAILERS
Minor occasional noises within the flooring are inherent to all staple
down installations and can change as environmental changes occur.
This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered under
our warranties (see warranty brochure for complete warranty
coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by
being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any
loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation.
When used improperly, staples can damage wood flooring. If the
tool is not adjusted properly the staples may not be positioned at the
proper angle and cause blistering, peaking, squeaking, or crackling of
the floor. Test the tool on a piece of scrap material first - set the
stapler/ nailer flush on the groove side of the plank and install a
staple. Should the staple penetrate too deeply reduce the air pressure;
if the staple is not deep enough then increase the air pressure using an
in-line regulator. The crown of the staple should sit flush/ recessed
within the bottom groove profile to prevent damage to the flooring
and to reduce squeaking. The flooring manufacturer is not
responsible for damage caused by the mechanical fasteners.
Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for complete set-up
and operation of equipment.
Getting Started
1. After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the
subfloor with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep
the floor clean and help to retard moisture from below (there is no
complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down
applications).
2. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be
straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at
each end, the overall width of the plank (board width + tongue + the
space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion).
3. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
4. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk
line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue facing
towards the starter starter wall (away from you). Drill pilot holes
through the face of the plank every 8” (in the dark grain);
approximately 1” from the back edge of the board and secure planks
with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate
colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface.
5. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the bottom of the groove 2 -3”
from the end joints and every 8 ” in between along the length of the
starter boards (Predrill holes to make this easier). Depending on the
width of the flooring it may be necessary to do this for the first few
rows prior to using a pneumatic stapler/ nailer.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can
cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
Installing the Floor
Anderson recommends the Stanley Bostich Model Floor Runner
# LHF 97125-2; a Pneumatic stapler with an adjustable foot. An
equivalent model stapler; capable of seating the staples into the
bottom groove edge at a 3.5mm height without damage may be
substituted.
6. Continue to install the flooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2”
from the ends and every 4 –6” thereafter. Make certain the tool is
adjusted properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and
is flush within the bottom groove. As you continue working across
the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum space between end
joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned
appearance.
7. If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together
until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present
between adjacent planks. NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or
hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove.
This can damage the flooring and/or finish.
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width
of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion along the end
wall. Once the final cuts are made set planks into place.
9. The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the
final planks into place, you must either manually blind nail and/or
face-nail through the surface on the final planks. Drill pilot holes at a
45-degree angle to the floor and blind nail using l” finishing nails.
Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the face every 8” (try to drill holes in
darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” finishing nails.
Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler –
remove excess filler from surface with a clean rag and proper cleaner.
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION
GUIDELINES
Additional tools & material needed:
A.F.B. Floating Floor Adhesive™
Terry Cloth towels
2 in 1 underlayment
Anderson Clean Green™
Hardwood Floor Cleaner
Pry/Pull Bar
Tapping Block & Spacers
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to
the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
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2 in 1 underlayment is required over all approved subfloors.
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Do not install over carpet.
If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the sub
floor. Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl.
If installing over an existing wood floor, install the flooring at
right angles to the wood floor.
Secure creaking and loose floorboards with screws.
Do not install over wood flooring glued to a concrete sub floor.
½” of expansion space required at all vertical surfaces.
Note: Large rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16”for
every 3’ the room extends beyond 25’ Dimensions exceeding 40’ in
length or width require the use of a t-molding for proper expansion.
Getting Started
1. Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings
1/16” higher than the thickness of the flooring and underlayment to
be installed. Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment
against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with
a hand saw or power jamb saw set to the correct height.
2. After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the
width of the room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of
the flooring). The last row of the flooring should be no less than 1 ½”
wide; if it is less, cut the width of the starter row to avoid a narrow
last row.
3. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be
straight and square with the room. Measure out from the wall, at each
end, the overall width of the plank plus ½” for expansion. If the first
row requires ripping then measure from the wall the width of the
ripped board plus ½” for expansion.
4. Snap a chalk line using a (brightly colored chalk) from these
points.
5. Install Underlayment and seal seams with clear plastic tape. Allow
the underlayment to run 2” up the wall and trim back after installation
of flooring.
6. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge (starter
board) inside the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of
planks from shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a
straight piece of lumber or piece of flooring. This is temporary and
will be replaced as the floor is completed.
Installing the Floor
7. Insert spacers at walls to maintain the expansion space between the
flooring and the wall.
8. Before starting to glue planks, dry lay the first two rows of
flooring. Work from right to left, install planks so that the groove
faces the straight edge (starter board). When reaching the end of the
first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. On the first 4 rows stagger
end joints a minimum of 16 - 24” and then 8” thereafter.
9. Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the
second row. If the piece is less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half
and use that piece to start the second row.
10. Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row. Make sure
that the rows are straight and no gapping exists on the sides or ends.
Once you have dry laid the first two rows, remove all the planks in
order. You are ready to begin.
11. Begin gluing the boards; Run a continuous bead of adhesive
along the groove of the short side (width) and the plank’s side groove
(length). Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can
cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
12. Install first row of planks with groove facing the straight edge.
Work from right to left. Complete the first row. Make sure there are
no gaps between the boards. Use a tapping block if need to close the
boards together. Immediately wipe away any excessive adhesive with
a clean, slightly dampened cloth.
CAUTION: Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the finish surface
can be difficult to remove and may leave a haze.
13. At the end wall use an end pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of
the planks tight.
14. Continue to install the floor working left to right, repeating the
process until the completion of the floor. Continue to use the spacers
on all vertical surfaces to maintain the ½” expansion.
DO NOT USE laminate straps as they may damage the flooring
15. The last row will most likely require cutting to width but it should
be no less than 1 ½” wide. To do this, lay the plank face up on top of
the last full row installed. Trace the wall contour on the last plank
using a scrap piece of plank and a pencil.
16. Install cut planks and pull into place with a pry bar. Install
spacing wedges between planks and wall.
17. Remove the straight edge (starter row) and install the last row
using the pry bar.
Allow floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before removing all
spacing wedges and allowing foot traffic.
18. Install trim and moldings the following day.
COMPLETING THE JOB – ALL
INSTALLATIONS
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Sweep or vacuum floor
Clean the floor with Anderson Clean Green™ Hardwood Floor
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Install transition pieces -i.e. – thresholds, t-moldings, base
boards and quarter round. Nail moldings to wall, not the floor.
Inspect final floor for nicks and or minor gaps – fill with
appropriate color wood putty.
Leave Warranty and Maintenance brochure with customer.
Unused material should be left with owner and stored in a dry
place in case of future repairs are needed.
Use plywood or hardboard when moving heavy appliances or
furniture across floor.
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Cleaner.
Floor Protection During Construction: Always protect the
surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a
quality rosin paper or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe,
taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting
to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the
flooring.
Moldings Help You Make Easy Transitions
T-Moldings: Used to create a transition between floor coverings of
similar heights or to cover an expansion gap.
Stair Nosing: Used in conjunction with flooring installed on steps or
provide a finished edge. Secure by gluing and nailing/ screwing down
into place. Predrill holes to avoid splitting.
Reducer Strips: Used to transition floor coverings of differing
heights- wood floor to vinyl, vinyl composition tile, or low-pile
carpet. Can also be used to border a fireplace.
Thresholds: Used to transition floor coverings or to create a break
between floor coverings – wood to carpet, can be used as a trim
molding around fireplaces or sliding glass doors.
Shoe Base Moldings: Used to cover the expansion space between the
floor and vertical surfaces. Can be used as a substitute for Quarter
Round moldings when space is a limitation.
Quarter Round Moldings: Used to cover the expansion space
between the Wall Base and your hardwood floor. You can also use
them
to make smooth transitions between the floor and cabinetry.
Wall Base Moldings: Can be stained and finished to the color of the
flooring to be used an alternative to painted baseboards.
FLOOR CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Remember, like any floor covering, our factory finished wood floors
will show signs of wear over time, depending on the size and lifestyle
of your family. By observing a few precautions and setting up a
regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect
years of beauty from your Anderson floor. The following are
examples of the reasonable and necessary maintenance
you are expected to perform. They are not intended to be an exclusive
list.
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Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage
the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush
or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean
and do not damage the finish. Do not use a vacuum with a
beater bar head.
•
Remove spills promptly using a soft cloth and cleaning
products recommended by Anderson.
•
Never wet-mop, damp-mop, or clean your floor with water
or other products. This can severely damage the flooring
and will void the warranties. Do not use hardwood floor
cleaning machines or steam cleaners. See section on
Improper Maintenance.
•
Anderson recommends the Anderson Clean Green™
Hardwood floor cleaner with a terry cloth mop. Additional
recommended products include -the Bona Kemi and Basic
Coatings Squeaky Hardwood Floor Cleaners. Always
vacuum the floors prior to using Clean Green™. Do not
allow excess cleaner to remain on the floors surface as this
may permanently damage the wood fiber.
•
Important: Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax
products or other household cleaners that contain citrus
oils, lemon oil, tung oil, silicon, or ammonia since these
warranties do not cover damage caused by
nonrecommended products. Use of these and other such
products will harm the long-term performance of your floor
and may also affect its recoatability.
•
Do not use 2 in 1 cleaners with polish that may contain
acrylics or urethane polish to restore gloss – the use of
these products will void the finish warranty and may
produce unsatisfactory results when not applied properly.
•
Keep pets’ nails trimmed, and paws clean and free of dirt,
gravel, grease, oil, and stains.
•
Place protective felt pads beneath furniture legs and feet to
reduce scratches and dents. Replace pads as needed.
•
Use a dolly and protective sheets of plywood when moving
heavy objects, furniture, or appliances.
•
Make certain furniture casters are clean and operate
properly (a minimum 1” wide vinyl surface where it comes
in contact with wood is recommended). Clean wheels
periodically to remove dirt and debris.
•
Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before
walking on floor.
•
Exposure to the sun and its UV rays accelerates the
oxidation and aging of wood. This can cause the stain
and/or wood to fade and/or to change color. We
recommend that you rearrange rugs and furniture
periodically so the floor ages evenly. Exotic species such as
Brazilian Cherry are more susceptible to color change
during the aging process. These warranties do not cover
damage from the sun and its UV rays.
•
Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g.,
stair landings, room entries, etc.), especially if you have a
large family or indoor pets.
• Maintain the proper Relative Humidity in your home
between 35% - 55%.
Copyright © Anderson Family of Brands 021610
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