model 91 catalytic unit

MODEL 91
CATALYTIC UNIT
Buck Stove
FIREPLACE INSERT & FREESTANDING
FEATURES
PREPARATIONS
INSTALLATION
OPERATION
MAINTENANCE
SAFETY
SAFETY NOTICE
IF THIS HEATER IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.
FOR YOUR SAFETY, FOLLOW THE
INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS.
CONTACT THE AUTHORITY HAVING JURISDICTION ( SUCH AS MUNICIPAL
BUILDING DEPARTMENT, FIRE DEPARTMENT, FIRE PREVENTION BUREAU,
etc.) CONSULT BEFORE INSTALLATION TO DETERMINE THE NEED TO
OBTAIN A PERMIT. KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE USE.
TESTED AND LISTED BY:
ITS/WARNOCK HERSEY, MIDDLETON, WI
MANUFACTURED BY NEW BUCK CORPORATION
200 ETHAN ALLEN DRIVE,
SPRUCE PINE, N.C. 28777
www.buckstove.com
Revised January 2013
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I
Room Heater Features................................................................................................... 3
Important Statements..................................................................................................... 3-6
SECTION II
Masonry Insert Installation............................................................................................ 7-11
SECTION III
Residential Freestanding Heater Installation............................................................... 12-18
SECTION IV
Wood Heater Safety .................................................................................................... 19
SECTION V
Operation..................................................................................................................... 20-21
SECTION VI
Preventive Maintenance / Parts Replacement ............................................................. 22-25
SECTION VII
Troubleshooting .......................................................................................................... 26-27
WARRANTY............................................................................................................. 28
Page 2
SECTION I
The New Buck Corporation room heater Model 91 Bay is one of the safest and most efficient heating systems
available when installed and operated as specified in these instructions and as stipulated on operation and
installation labels affixed to unit. The unit is designed to burn wood fuel only.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. Failure to follow instructions
may result in property damage, bodily injury or even death.
Throughout manual, you will see this symbol.
Please make a special note of these areas.
This indicates areas of importance regarding safety.
Install and use only in accordance with manufacturer’s installation and operating instructions. Do not connect this
unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance. This unit is not designed for installation in a mobile home.
ROOM HEATER FEATURES
Before attempting to install or operate your heater, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with features and
operating controls of unit. (See page 3 for reference).
OPERATING CONTROLS
WARNING: Model 91 Bay Heater was not designed for fire grates.
NOTE: “Do not use grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly on hearth.”
1.
Bypass Damper: The bypass damper control is located in top center of heater front just under top. It is
operated by pushing or pulling rod. The damper is fully open when handle is pulled out and fully closed when
it is pushed in. The damper must be OPEN before door is opened.
2. Blower Control: The blower control (Rheostat) is located on side of the unit. The rheostat is used to vary
speed of blower. It can be set at any position. It must be turned on to activate automatic thermostat on
stove.
3. Primary Air Controls: The primary air intake draft controls (3) are located at left and right bottom side of
hearth. They are operated by moving handle out to open (to allow air into the firebox) or in (to control or
close off) air into firebox. Shot gun air control, allows air to center of firebox of stove (3a).
4. Warm Air Outlets: Provides heat extraction from top of firebox.
5. Baffles: Directs air flow around unit for maximum heat transfer.
6. Air Inlet: Allows cool air near floor to be circulated through blower and back into warm air chamber of
heater.
7. Door: Provides an “airtight” feature. The door allows a much higher burning efficiency than can be
obtained with an open firebox.
8. Hearth Extension: Offers protection from spilled ashes and cinders.
9. Power Cord: Provides electrical power to operate blower.
10. Catalyst: Enables Unit to burn cleanly and efficiently.
11. Catalyst Probe: Probe is located right of the bypass damper rod. It is used to determine (catalyst)
temperature.
12. Automatic/Off/Manual Switch: Located behind right cover door under hearth. In the “Manual” position,
the blower operates continuously. In “Automatic” position, blower is controlled by internal thermostat
which reacts to temperature of air between the stove walls. (Not same as the temperature showing on the
Catalyst Probe.)
SAFETY STANDARD COMPLIANCE
The Model 91 Bay catalytic solid fuel (wood) burning combination room heater/fireplace stove manufactured by
New Buck Corporation complies with UL 1482-(1996),: UL 1482 (2006): UL 1482 (2010) and UL 737-1995 for
residential freestanding and masonry fireplace insert installations when constructed and installed in accordance
with ITS approved documentation.
Page 3
EPA COMPLIANCE STATUS
This manual describes installation and operation of the New Buck Corporation Model 91 Bay wood heater.
This heater meet the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Emission limits for wood heaters sold after July 1,
1992. Under specific test conditions, this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from
approximately 10,000 to 54,500 BTU/hr for the Model 91 Bay.
MODEL 91 WOOD STOVE IDENTIFICATION
1
39
41
11
4
20
32
16
15
7
5
37 & 38
10
13
21
14
40
18
31
33
8
19
3
12
3A
2
25
29
26
35
30
36
24
6
28
1.
2.
3.
3a.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
9
34
22
23
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
Bypass Damper & Brass Spring Handle
Blower Control (Rheostat)
Primary Air Control Air Wash Rod for Both
Sides
Shot Gun Air Control
Warm Air Outlets
Baffles (Interior of Stove)
Air Inlet
Door
Hearth Extension
Power Cord
Catalyst (Interior Firebox)
Catalyst Probe
Automatic / Off / Manual Switch
Brass Cap
Hinge Block
Brass Overlays
Brass Overlay Mounting Screws
Door Glass & Logo
Glass Clips
Hearth Brass
Page 4
Door Gasket
Side Glass
Leveling Screws
Firebrick
Motor
Motor Mount Bracket
Cover Door
Cover Door Screws
Shot Gun Air Box
Ash Pan
Disc Thermostat
Door Handle & Brass Spring Handle
Air Wash Screen
Glass Gasket
Cover Door Hinge
Magnet Holder
Cover Door Magnet
Door Latch
Door Latch Screw
Lower Heat Shield
Hinge Pins
8" Flue Exit
CATALYST EQUIPPED
This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, which needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper
operation. It is against law to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this
manual or if the catalytic element is deactivated or removed.
CATALYST WARRANTY
The combustor supplied with this heater is a set of (3) (2" x 3-1/2" x 6" x 25" cells). Consult catalytic combustor
warranty also supplied with this heater. All warranty claims should be addressed to:
Applied Ceramics
Customer Service Department
P.O. Box 29664
Atlanta, GA 30359
770-448-6888
See enclosed catalyst warranty for instructions. New Buck Corporation does not handle catalyst replacements.
Customer can order directly from Applied Ceramics.
PROPER FUEL SELECTION
For best results, this heater is designed to burn (dry), natural seasoned hardwood. Higher efficiencies and
lower emissions generally result when burning air dried natural seasoned hardwoods, as compared to
softwoods or too green or freshly cut hardwoods. Green or freshly cut hardwoods (wood with high
moisture content) will not produce the BTU’s needed to heat your home. The result will be low
temperature reading on the catalyst probe, thus low BTU output.
DO NOT BURN:
1) Treated Wood
3) Garbage
5) Solvents
7) Trash
2) Coal
4) Cardboard
6) Colored Paper
Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or trash may result in release of toxic fumes and may
poison or render the catalytic combustor ineffective.
Burning coal, cardboard or loose paper can produce soot or large flakes of char or fly ash that can coat
combustor, causing smoke spillage into room and rendering combustor ineffective. (Not covered under warranty.)
ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF
The temperature in stove and gases entering combustor must be raised to between 700o F to 900o F for catalytic
activity to be initiated. The temperature can be determined by the Catalyst Monitor Probe. During start up of a
cold stove a medium to high firing rate must be maintained for about 20 minutes. This can be achieved by
starting fire with dry kindling, paper and small split wood. Have the Bypass Damper fully open (pulled out). This
ensures that the stove, catalyst and fuel are all stabilized at proper operating temperatures. Even though it is
possible (and likely) to have gas temperatures reach 600o F within two to three minutes after a fire is started, if the
fire is allowed to die down immediately it may go out or the combustor may stop working. Once the combustor
starts working, heat generated in it by burning smoke will keep it working.
ACHIEVING CATALYTIC LIGHT-OFF WHEN REFUELING
During refueling and rekindling of a cool fire, or a fire that has burned down to charcoal phase, operate stove at a
medium to high firing rate for about 10 minutes to ensure that catalyst reaches approximately 800 o F.
Page 5
CATALYST MONITORING
It is important to periodically monitor operation of catalytic combustor to ensure that it is functioning properly,
and to determine when it needs to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in a loss of heating
efficiency and an increase in creosote and emissions. See Troubleshooting section for detailed instructions
BEFORE attempting to remove catalyst.
This catalytic heater is equipped with means to monitor catalyst operation. Properly functioning combustors
typically maintain temperatures in excess of 1000o F. If catalyst temperatures are not in excess of 500o F, refer to
Catalyst Troubleshooting section of this owner’s manual.
CAUTION AGAINST OVER-FIRING
Do not over-fire this heater.
Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in permanent damage to t
heater and to catalytic combustor.
ASH REMOVAL
Whenever ashes build up in firebox and when fire has burned down and cooled, remove excess ashes. Leave an
ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on firebox bottom to help maintain a hot charcoal bed. To remove ashes the
dump is located at left inner bottom. By lifting dump door, place ashes through the dump opening. The ashes
fall directly into ash pan. The ash pan is located at left side under the hearth behind cover door.
NOTE: Be sure to turn room air blower off before removing ashes. Open cover door and slide ash pan out.
NOTE: Fueling and ash removal door (s) must remain closed when in operation.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be
placed on a non-combustible floor or on ground, away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal.
The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
NOTE: Be sure to turn room air blower back on when job is completed.
NOTE: The room heater is not to be connected to any air distribution duct.
CREOSOTE - FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapor, which combined with expelled moisture
forms creosote. The creosote vapors condense in a relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a
result, creosote residue accumulates on flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
Page 6
SECTION II
MASONRY INSERT INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION OPTIONS
This unit (appliance) may be installed into an all masonry fireplace, built in accordance with Uniform Building Code and
National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 211).
NOTE: Check with local building officials for any permits required for installation of this stove and notify your insurance
company before proceeding with installation.
OPTION A. See Below
At a minimum, a starter pipe reaching from stove flue exit to base of existing code approved
masonry chimney (flue-liner) and an airtight face seal.
OPTION B. See Page 8.
Direct connection: In accordance with NFPA-211-9-4.5, Connection to Masonry Fireplaces. A solid fuel-burning
appliance such as a stove or insert shall be permitted to use a masonry fireplace flue where the following conditions
are met:
Exception: Listed fireplace accessories shall be permitted to use a masonry fireplace flue.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
There is a connector that extends from the appliance to flue liner.
The cross-sectional area of flue is no more than three times the cross-sectional area of flue collar of
appliance.
If appliance vents directly through chimney wall above smoke chamber, there shall be a noncombustible
seal below the entry point of the connector.
The installation shall be such that the chimney system can be inspected and cleaned.
Means shall be provided to prevent dilution of combustible products in the chimney flue with air from the habitable
space.
OPTION C. See Page 8.
It may be necessary to positive connect this unit to enhance the performance, if any of the following conditions exists:
1. Poor Drawing Flue
3. Double Flues
5. Stone Front Fireplace/ or damaged flue liner
2. Oversized Flue (17” x 7)
4. Ash Dump
6. Chimney that does not exceed 12’
Check with your dealer if any of above conditions exist before installing your stove. Proper installation is critical to the
performance of the Model 91.
Use Fireplace Kit PA FP91 for installation. An optional oversized fireplace kit is available for larger fireplaces. Check
with dealer.
SAFETY NOTICE
If this appliance is not properly installed, a house fire may result. For your safety, follow the installation directions.
Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
OPTION (A)
AIRTIGHT INSULATED CLEANOUT
STARTER PIPE
SEAL TRIM PANELS WITH INSULATION / AND OR HIGH TEMPERATURE
CAULK
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE
IT OPEN
NOTE: New Buck Corporation grants no
warranty, implied or stated, for the installation
or maintenance of your appliance, and assumes
no responsibility of any consequential damage
Page 7
OPTION (B)
OPTION (C)
NOTE: Follow installation
instruction with Positive
Connection Kit.
(Kit sold separately)
NOTE: Follow installation instruction
with Direct Connection Kit.
(Kit sold separately)
INSTALL A NON-COMBUSTIBLE
COVER PLATE TO PREVENT
WATER FROM ENTERING THE
CHIMNEY
STAINLESS
STEEL
CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR MUST
EXTEND 1’
PAST THE
BLOCK-OFF
PLATE OR
TO THE
FLUE LINER
SEAL TRIM PANELS
WITH INSULATION /
AND OR HIGH TEMPERATURE CAULK
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE
IT OPEN
BLOCK-OFF PLATE
OR DAMPER
ADAPTER
INSTALLATION (Fireplace Insert)
Minimum Clearances to Combustible Materials (in inches)
MANTEL
30"
20"
15"
20"
24"
HEARTH EXTENSION
Page 8
THE LINER MUST
BE STAINLESS
STEEL CONNECTOR OR FLEXIBLE
VENT. FOLLOW
THE LINER
MANUFACTURE’S
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR INSTALLATION AND SUPPORT.
TRIM PANELS
REMOVE
DAMPER
OR WIRE IT
OPEN
8"
FLUE
LINER
AIRTIGHT
INSULATED
CLEAN-OUT
AIRTIGHT
INSULATED
CLEAN-OUT
FIGURE 1
FIREPLACE INSERT
CAP(PREVENTS
WATER FROM
ENTERING)
MINIMUM CLEARANCES:
The Model 91 Bay Fireplace Insert is intended for installation in accordance with standard for chimneys, fireplaces, vents
and solid-fuel burning appliances. NFPA-211 Code: NOTE-This model is not intended for installation into Zero Clearance or pre-fabricated fireplace.
1. The hearth must be of masonry construction and must extend a minimum of 24" in front of firebox opening and a
minimum of 8" to either side of firebox opening.
2. Floor protector must be 3/8" minimum thickness non-combustible material or equivalent.
3. If your fireplace has wood trim above it, the wood trim must be at least 20" above top of unit and may be a maximum of 1/2" thick.
4. If your fireplace has a wood mantel, mantel or mantel supports must be located at a height of 30" above top of the
stove.
REQUIRED FIREPLACE DIMENSIONS
Minimum fireplace dimensions:
Height
Min.
Model 91 Bay
23 1/2"
Width
Min.
31 3/4"
Depth
Min.
15 1/2"
POSSIBLE TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
If you decide to install your own stove, there are several hand tools you may need to do job. If you do not already have
them, they are readily available at most hardware stores.
Caulking gun
Large adjustable wrench (may not be needed)
Drop cloths or newspapers
Vacuum cleaner or whisk broom
Flashlight
1 tube of RTV silicone, Code 103 or 106, or high temperature rubber cement rated between 450o F- 600o F.
7/32" drill bit and drill
Socket/Ratchet Set
Insulation (Provided in Trim Kit package)
INSTALLATION PREPARATION
Fireplace:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Locate furniture and other materials away from front of fireplace to allow free access to fireplace.
Cover hearth and adjacent floor areas with drop cloths to protect from soiling or marring surface.
Remove existing fireplace damper plate.
Thoroughly clean the fireplace of ashes and soot.
Have your existing chimney inspected before inserting this unit. Some chimneys must be relined or replaced before
they are safe to use.
Check the chimney and smoke chamber for excessive buildups of creosote or soot. Also, check for obstructions, such
as bird’s nests. If chimney is excessively dirty, clean it or have someone clean it professionally BEFORE installing
or using room heater.
If fireplace has an ash dump or outside air provision, these must be sealed off with metal or tightly packed noncombustible insulation to prevent cold air from entering fireplace chamber.
Heater:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Inspect unit for any obvious physical damage.
Check primary air draft controls to ensure that they slide freely.
Check operation of damper control to ensure it will open and close properly.
Check Manual/Automatic Switch to ensure that motor is working. *Place switch in the “MANUAL” position.
(Plug in stove.) You cannot check motor in the “AUTOMATIC” position, unless a heat gun is used to heat
internal thermostat.
Page 9
POSITIONING THE HEATER
When positioning heater, the following conditions MUST be met! (See Figure 2.)
1. The front of damper opening must be positioned BEHIND rear edge of lintel to ensure proper draft. (See
Figure 2.)
2. The vertical plane of fireplace front must fall BEHIND side panels of the unit. (In other words, it is possible
to have heater too far in as well as not far enough.)
3. Center the heater in fireplace opening.
CENTER
LINE
VERTICAL PLANE
DAMPER
OPENING
LINTEL EDGE
FIGURE 2
FIGURE 3 MOUNTING TRIM PANELS
POSITIONING
MOUNTING TRIM PANELS
After unit is positioned, mark mounting position of trim panels as follows:
1.
Place side trim panels flat against face of fireplace. Mark inside edge of trim panel to make a vertical
reference line. (See Figure 3.)
2.
Place top (long) trim panel on top of unit. The panel should be flat against outside face of fireplace, and
standing vertically. Mark lower edge of trim panel with a pencil to make a reference line for mounting.
3.
Slide unit out of fireplace far enough to work behind trim panel reference lines.
4.
Mount side trim panels. (See Figure 3.)
a. Position trim panel on reference line.
b. Drill mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets to allow for adjustment in
and out if necessary.
c. Mount trim panel using self-tapping screws provided.
5.
Place top panel back on reference mark. Top trim panel mounting bracket is supplied with unit. Position
bracket so it overlaps rear lip of top trim panel. Drill mounting holes in top of stove using holes in bracket as
guide. Tighten screws.
6.
Follow installation procedures in listed direct connect or positive connect kit you are using and install
heater and connect kit in fireplace.
Page 10
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Slide unit back into fireplace. Check to be sure that trim panels are properly positioned and lie flat against
front of fireplace. If one or more of panels is out of position, slide unit out and reset by loosening
mounting screws and repositioning in slot.
Reinstall top trim panel by sliding rear lip of top trim panel underneath front lip of mounting bracket
already secured to top of unit.
NOTE: Mount top trim panel so that it sits in front of top of side trim panels..
Obtain brass trim kit provided with unit and slip over top and sides of trim panels. (Top ends of brass may
need to be trimmed to fit.)
Ensure that starter pipe or connector is properly secure in stove flue exit, and aligned with chimney flue.
Mount top trim panel by drilling mounting holes in center of trim panel mounting brackets, with top end side
of top panel overlapping side panel.
Using insulation provided, peel and stick to back of panels overlapping fireplace dimensions by 1" on each
side and top. (See Figure 3.)
Using high heat silicone or furnace cement run heavy bead of caulking where panels meet stove. (See Figure
3.)
Slide unit back into fireplace. Check to be sure that trim panels (and brass) are properly positioned and lie
flat against front of fireplace. If panels are out of position, slide unit out and reset by loosening mounting
screws and repositioning in slot. With bar, lift stove up in front. Place insulation across front and surface of
hearth or bottom of fireplace to make complete seal.
To check seal of panels, use candle flame and go around entire area sealed by silicone and insulation. If
flame leans toward inside of fireplace, add additional insulation. This ensures an airtight seal.
FINAL CHECK
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Recheck specified clearances.
Remove all foreign material from firebox area.
Open primary air draft, shot-gun air draft and damper bypass, make sure ash drawer is sealed properly.
Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
Place 4 or 5 pieces of newspaper in stove. Light paper and close door. Ensure that stove draws properly
through primary drafts.
Check for smoke leaks around door.
Open door (slowly) and check for smoke escaping from front of stove. Smoking usually indicates a
defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting
newspaper and holding it near the open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once chimney heats up, a proper
draft can usually by obtained.
NOTE: A poor drafting chimney can lead to poor heater performance. This is not a defect of the heater, but
with the chimney. Poor performance due to a poor drafting chimney is NOT a warranty problem.
If a thorough review of Troubleshooting Guide in rear of manual does not solve your problem,
contact your dealer for assistance. If homeowner installed unit himself, there generally is a charge for
dealer to service the stove and inspect installation.
The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or three
firings. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR
HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED. (Paint may blister or peel off. This is not covered by warranty.)
You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires. This is
normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a
window near unit will allow these fumes to escape.
Page 11
SECTION III
RESIDENTIAL FREESTANDING ROOM HEATER
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION PRECAUTION
Extensive field and laboratory testing has shown that catalytic stoves perform best as freestanding stoves when
vented into a masonry chimney that include the following:
1.
A rain cap is installed on chimney.
2.
Height of chimney is at least 15 feet high.
3.
Location of chimney is interior. (Not on an outside wall)
Satisfactory results have been reported with installations other than listed above. However, draft problems are
possible if a hot chimney is not maintained.
Use Leg Kit # FA FS2191 for Model 91
CAUTION: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Page 12
MODEL 91 BAY
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
The New Buck Corporation Model 91 Bay must be installed in compliance with instructions contained in this
manual.
Clearance from combustible walls and ceilings. (Using single wall chimney connector)
The minimum lateral distance between any part of room heater and combustible walls is shown in Figures 1 and 2.
BACK WALL
BACK WALL
B
F
B G
F
D
C
SIDE WALL
C
E
E
D
G
AA
FIGURE 1
50”
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
FIGURE 2
MODEL 91
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
24”
23”
16”
26”
8”
3”
16”
FLOOR PROTECTION
If a freestanding model is to be installed on a combustible floor, a non-combustible pad must be placed under unit
to protect floor from burning material from stove. The pad must be 50 inches wide. NOTE: The floor must
extend 16" from door opening in front of stove, 8" from door opening on each side of unit and should be under
the chimney connector. Floor protector must be 3/8" in minimum thickness, non-combustible material or
equivalent.
NOTE: For clearance reductions using wall protectors, refer to the NFPA-211 Code.
TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION
Drop Cloth
Electric Drill with 7/32" drill bit
1/2" - 9/16" combination wrench
3/8" magnetic socket chuck adapter, 3/8" wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench
Socket Set
Tape Measure
Pencil
Level
Screw Driver
Page 13
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
FLOOR PROTECTION
Floor protector must be 3/8" minimum thickness non-combustible material or equivalent.
How to use alternate materials and how to calculate equivalent thickness
An easy means of determining if a proposed alternate floor protector meets requirements listed
in the appliance manual is to follow this procedure:
1. Convert specification to R-value:
R-value is given—no conversion is needed.
K– factor is given with a required thickness (T) in inches:
C-factor is given: R=1/C
2. Determine the R-value of the proposed alternate floor protector.
Use the formula in step (1) to convert values not expressed as “R”
For multiple layers, add R-values of each layer to determine the overall R-value.
3. If the overall R-value of the system is greater than the R-value of the specified floor
protector, the alternate is acceptable.
Example:
The specified floor protector should be 3/4” thick material with a K-factor of 0.84.
The proposed alternate is 4” brick with a C-factor of 1.25 over 1/8” mineral board with a
K-factor of 0.29.
Step (a): Use formula above to convert specification to R-value. R= 1/K x T = 1/0.84 x .75 =
0.893
Step (b): Calculate R of proposed system. 4” brick of C=1.25, therefore Rbrick = 1/C = 1/1.25
= 0.80 1/8” mineral board of K = 0.29, therefore Rmin.bd. =1/029 x0.125 = 0.431
Step (c): Compare proposed system R of 1.231 to specified R of 0.893. Since proposed
system R is greater than required , the system is acceptable.
Definitions:
Thermal conductance = C =
Btu
=
W
(hr)(ft²)(°F) (m²)(°K)
Thermal conductance = K = (Btu)(inch) = W =
(Btu)
(hr)(ft²)(°f) (m)(°K) (hr)(tf)(°F)
Thermal conductance = R = (ft²)(hr)(°F) = (m²)(°K)
Btu
W
Install in accordance with 24 CFR, Part 3280 (HUD).
Page
Page13A
14
PREPARING THE STOVE FOR INSTALLATION
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Inspect unit for any obvious physical damage.
Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly. You cannot check motor when switch is in the “Off” or “Automatic” position,
unless a heat gun is used to heat internal thermostat.
Check primary air draft controls to ensure that they operate freely.
Check operation of bypass damper control to ensure that it will open and close properly.
To attach legs, remove any items within firebox. Spread drop cloth on floor behind heater. Tilt heater so
that back is on drop cloth. Attach legs to pre-drilled holes in bottom of heater. If using optional pedestal,
mounting holes will need to be drilled.
Reposition heater to upright position.
CHIMNEY
Ceiling Exits:
The Model 91 Bay is designed for connection to: 1)
Simpson Dura-Vent, 2) Security, 3) Selkirk Metal 4)
Metal Fab, 5) Air Jet, listed as 2100o pipe and parts.
“Follow chimney and chimney connector manufacturers
instructions and local building codes for installation
through combustible walls or ceilings.” This heater can
only be installed freestanding by using one of the
following requirements: 1) must use a brand of chimney
pipe, as listed above, complying to the requirements for
Type HT chimneys in the standard code for chimneys,
Factory-Built, Residential Type and Building Heating
Appliance, UL 103 or 2) a code approved masonry
chimney with a flue liner.
CAUTION: Certain installation types require use of
certain chimney types. Please follow these instructions
exactly.
CEILING
SUPPORT BOX
SINGLE WALL
PIPE
OPTIONAL NBC
CAST CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR
DETERMINING CHIMNEY LOCATION
A. Ceiling Exit (Using Single Wall Pipe and UL 103
HT type chimney system listed with
manufacturers in this section of manual)
1. Suspend a plumb bob from ceiling above unit
so that weight is hanging in the center of flue
FIGURE 3
exit. (A small weight on a string will
serve as a plumb bob.) Mark ceiling where string is suspended to locate center of chimney.
2. After locating the center of the hole, install the ceiling support box, chimney, flashing, and rain cap per
the chimney manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Connect stove to ceiling support box by using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel chimney pipe.
(DO NOT use galvanized pipe.) Each section should fit into section below or into opening on stove, for
drip-free operation. Secure each section together by using at least three (3) sheet metal screws or rivets.
4. You may secure chimney pipe to stove two (2) different ways.
a. With Optional NBC Cast Chimney Connector, See Figure 3.
b. Mounting clips attached to heater and chimney pipe, See Figure 7 on Page 16.
Page 14
15
CLOSE CLEARANCE INSTALLATIONS (in inches)
Close clearance installation is possible by using the following brands of black, double-wall chimney pipe. (See
Figure 4 and Figure 5 for clearances.)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Simpson Dura-Vent double wall chimney connector “Type DVL” and 8" Simpson Dura-Vent 2100o HT “Type
DP” chimney
8" Security Type DL double wall connector and 8" Security Type “ASHT” High Temp Chimney.
8" Selkirk Metal Bestos Model “DS” double wall connector-8" Selkirk Metal Bestos Model SSII type HT
Chimney System.
8" Metal Fab type “DW” double wall connector - 8" Metal Fab 2100o HT chimney.
8" Air Jet
BACK WALL
BACK WALL
B G
B
F
F
D
C
SIDE WALL
C
E
E
D
G
AA
FIGURE 4
MODEL 91
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
14”
14”
12”
16”
8”
8”
16”
FIGURE 5
TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION
Drop Cloth
Electric Drill with 3/32" drill bit
5/16" combination wrench
5/16" magnetic socket chuck adapter, 5/16"
wrench (box or socket) or adjustable wrench
Pencil
Socket Set
Level
Tape Measure
Screw Driver
1/4” Rise Per. FT.
Wall Exit into Metal Tee-Box (Using
Single Wall Pipe)
1.
Mark plumb line on the wall directly behind
the center of heater. (See Figure 6.)
NOTE: When using #24 ga. min. blued or black
steel pipe, maintain 18" between pipe and
ceiling.
2. Place vertical portion of heater pipe and
elbow in position and project a point onto
plumb line level with center of elbow.
FIGURE 6
15
Page 16
3.
4.
5.
Measure so there will be at least
1/4" rise per foot of horizontal
connector pipe, maintaining
clearances to ceiling as noted in
Figure 7. This will give you the
center of hole for chimney
penetration.
After locating center of
penetration, install tee-box and
chimney as per chimney
manufacturer’s specifications.
Connect chimney pipe to tee-box
using #24 ga. minimum blued or
black steel pipe. (DO NOT use
galvanized pipe.) Each section
should fit into section below or
into opening on stove, for dripfree operation. Secure each
section together by using at least
three (3) sheet metal screws or
rivets.
1/4” Rise Per. FT.
Wall Exit Into Masonry
(Using Single Wall Pipe)
1.
Before connecting Model 91
Bay to a masonry chimney,
determine if masonry fireplace wall pass-through connector
FIGURE 7
thimble meets NFPA-211 Code and local building codes and is a minimum of 18" from ceiling. If
connector thimble does not meet these codes, the pass-through connector must be modified.
Connectors may pass through walls or partitions constructed of combustible material if connector is:
(a) either listed for wall pass-through or is routed through a device listed for wall pass-through and is
installed in accordance with conditions of listing.
(b) Selected or fabricated in accordance with conditions and clearances as stated in NFPA 211-Code. Any
unexposed metal that is used as part of a wall pass-through system and is exposed to flue gases shall be
constructed of stainless steel or other equivalent material that will resist corrosion, softening, or cracking
from flue gases at temperatures up to 1800o F.
In addition, a connector to a masonry chimney shall extend through wall to the inner face or liner but not beyond,
and shall be firmly cemented to masonry.
EXCEPTION: A thimble may be used to facilitate removal of chimney connector for cleaning, in which case
thimble shall be permanently cemented in place with high temperature cement.
2.
Once through-the-wall thimble codes are met, simply connect chimney pipe to the wall pass-through
connector using #24 ga. minimum blued or black steel pipe as follows:
(a) Maintain 1/4" rise per foot (horizontal length) from the appliance to chimney.
(b) Each section of pipe should fit into section below or into opening on the stove for drip-free operation.
(c) Secure each section to each other using at least three (3) sheet metal screws or rivets.
16
Page 17
Ceiling Exit - Close Clearance
1.
2.
3.
Suspend a plumb bob from ceiling above unit so
that weight is hanging in the center of flue exit.
(A small weight on a string will serve as a plumb
bob.) Mark ceiling where string is suspended to
locate center of chimney hole.
After locating center of hole, install ceiling
support box, chimney, flashing and rain cap.
Install Double Wall Connector and chimney
system per manufacturer’s written operating
instructions. See manufacturer’s list of tested
pipes.
CEILING
SUPPORT BOX
SINGLE WALL
PIPE
OPTIONAL NBC
CAST CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR
(COLLAR)
CAUTION: Because of the high efficiency and
low flue gas temperature, freestanding catalytic
heaters connected to masonry chimneys with
oversized flue liners may encounter drafting problems
A positive flue liner (optional) may be necessary to
help draft. A poor drafting chimney may result in poor
performance from Model 91. This is not a defect of
the Model 91 but a defect in the chimney. This is not
a warranty problem with the Model 91. Contact dealer
for possible solutions for chimney.
FIGURE 8
Example: The rear clearance for the Model 91 from page 13 is 18". (See Figure 1.) This clearance may be reduced
by 50% to 9" by using either of the wall protection devices mentioned below.
ALTERNATIVES FOR WALL PROTECTION
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
AIR SPACE
1"
BRICK CLEARANCE REDUCTION SYSTEM
NAIL OR
SCREW
ANCHOR
BRICK WALL
SPACED OUT I
INCH FROM
PROTECTED
SURFACE
1 INCH NON-COMBUSTIBLE SPACER SUCH AS
STACKED WASHERS, SMALL DIAMETER PIPE, TUBING
OR ELECTRICAL CONDUIT.
LEAVE I INCH
CLEARANCE FOR
AIR CIRCULATION
FLOOR
AIR CIRCULATION
MINIMUM
24 GAUGE
SHEET
METAL
DO NOT USE FASTENERS DIRECTLY BEHIND CHIMNEY
CONNECTOR OR STOVE.
BRICK WALLS MAY BE ATTACHED TO COMBUSTIBLE WALLS USING WALL TIES
IF BRICK IS USED. BE SURE FLOOR CAN WITHSTAND WEIGHT OF BRICK.
TOP VIEW
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
WOOD STOVE
MINIMUM 24 GAUGE
SHEET METAL
CLEARANCE REDUCTION STEM SPACED
OUT 1 INCH
FIGURE 9
17
Page 18
FLOOR PROTECTOR
NON-COMBUSTIBLE
SPACERS
Tested and Listed Wall Protector
Clearances to combustibles may be reduced if a tested and listed wall protector is installed over a combustible
surface when following conditions exist:
1. A dead air space of 1" separates listed and tested wall protector from combustible surface.
2. The tested and listed wall protector extends form floor to ceiling with a 1" clearance for air circulation at both
floor and ceiling.
3. The 1" spacers (preferably ceramic rather than metal) must be located at corners rather than behind heater or
chimney connector.
Unlisted and Untested Wall Protector
Wall protectors may be constructed of masonry, 24 gauge or thicker sheet metal, or non-combustible 1/2" thick
insulation board. Conditions 2 and 3 above must be observed but, the air space in condition 1 must be increased
to 1 1/2".
FINAL CHECK
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Recheck specified clearances.
Remove all foreign material from firebox area.
Open primary air draft; shot-gun air draft, and damper bypass. Make sure ash drawer is sealed properly.
Plug power cord into a 115V AC outlet. Set switch to “Manual” and rheostat to “High” position to ensure
motor operates properly.
Place 4 or 5 pieces of newspaper in stove. Light paper and close door. Ensure that stove draws properly
through primary drafts.
Check for smoke leaks around door.
Open door (slowly) and check for smoke escaping from front of stove. Smoking usually indicates a
defective or poorly positioned chimney. Some chimneys with a marginal draft can be preheated by lighting
newspaper and holding it near open damper with a poker or fire tong. Once chimney heats up, a proper
draft can usually be obtained.
NOTE: A poor drafting chimney can lead to poor heater performance. This is not a defect of heater, but
with the chimney. Poor performance due to a poor drafting chimney is NOT a warranty problem.
If a thorough review of Troubleshooting Guide in rear of manual does not solve your problem,
contact your dealer for assistance. If homeowner installed unit himself, there generally is a charge for
Dealer to service stove and inspect installation.
The unit is painted with a specially formulated high temperature paint that cures during the first two or three
firings. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE UNTIL THIS CURING IS COMPLETE OR
HEATER FINISH MAY BE DAMAGED. (Paint may blister or peel off. This is not covered by warranty.)
You may notice a slight smoking effect and an odor of burning paint when you build the first fires. This is
normal and is not a cause for alarm. In some cases these fumes will activate a smoke alarm. Opening a
window near unit will allow these fumes to escape.
18
Page 19
SECTION IV
WOOD HEATER SAFETY
Certain safety hazards are inherent in any wood heater installation. You should be aware of these so that a safe
and proper installation can be made.
1.
2.
FAULTY CHIMNEY: An older masonry chimney should be thoroughly checked to be sure there are
no holes or weak spots which could allow sparks or hot gases to escape. If any of these are present, a
positive liner should be installed before heater is installed.
HEAT CONDUCTION: Placing combustible materials too close to a heater or chimney can be a fire
hazard.
By keeping these particular hazards in mind as you install and use your room heater you can ensure a safe,
reliable installation.

NOTE: When burning any unit or appliance that combusts fuel for heat, such as coal, oil, wood or
natural and (L.P.) liquid petroleum gas, we highly recommend the use of smoke and carbon
monoxide detectors in your home.
The connector and/or chimney should be inspected at least once a month during heating season to determine if a
creosote buildup has occurred. Any buildup of soot should be removed to prevent risk of a chimney fire. To
remove chimney or chimney connector, remove screws and/or fasteners. Remove pipe and clean with a steel wire
brush. Replace chimney or chimney connector and replace screws and/or fasteners.
CAUTION: NEVER use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid or similar
liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in the heater. Keep all such liquids well away from the stove when it is in
use. All fluids of this type give off volatile fumes and can and WILL EXPLODE!! Don’t take a chance with the
safety of your home and family.
WARNING: Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away from stove. Contact may cause
skin burns.
HELPFUL HINTS
CURING THE PAINT ON YOUR HEATER: During the first several firings, burn small fires to cure paint
and to prevent damage to the finish. It is a good idea to flip the toggle switch to “Manual” position during these
first firings so the blower will run continuously. This will allow paint to cure at a slower rate and creates a better
overall finish.
CAUTION: Never remove ashes from your heater with the blower running.
TIPS ON FIRE BURNING
GREEN WOOD vs. NATURAL SEASONED HARD WOOD-Green wood has a high moisture content and
therefore requires a hotter ignition temperature. Seasoned wood-cut at least one year before use-allows for
a quicker, prolonged burn and more complete combustion.
SPLIT WOOD vs. ROUND WOOD-Split wood burns easier and more rapidly, whether it’s seasoned or
green. If used after starting a fire, it should be packed tightly to achieve a longer burn.
Round wood burns longer, but requires more effort to start. Inserting a round piece over a bed of red coals
with damper and drafts open will help it catch fire. Round wood should be used to accomplish an all-night
burn.
19
Page 20
SECTION V
OPERATION
This section of the manual is to help you get maximum efficiency and maximum smoke (particulate) reduction
from your heater. If you should experience any difficulty or have questions concerning your heater, contact your
dealer for assistance.
Manufacturer’s recommendation for peak performance and long catalyst life is to burn natural
seasoned hardwood (wood dried 6-12 months) and place wood from front to back position in
heater.
NOTE: Soft woods such as pine, create more creosote, clogging of chimney and produce a less
efficient burn performance.
Build a fire for maximum efficiency. This model burns wood and extracts heat so efficiently, a large fire is not
necessary. A large fire not only wastes energy, it usually results in home being too warm for comfort. The
following steps will serve as a guide for operating your stove.
GUIDE TO THE DIFFERENT BURNING QUALITIES OF WOOD
Type of
Wood
Apple
Ash
Beech
Birch
Cherry
Cedar
Elm
Hemlock
Hickory
Locust
Maple
Oak
Pine
Ease of
Starting
Poor
Fair
Poor
Good
Poor
Excellent
Fair
Good
Fair
Poor
Poor
Poor
Excellent
Coaling
Qualities
Excellent
Good
Good
Excellent
Excellent
Poor
Good
Low
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Poor
Amount of
Sparks
Few
Few
Few
Moderate
Few
Many
Very Few
Many
Moderate
Very Few
Few
Few
Moderate
The Main Audubon Society recently charted the heat produced by a wood fire. They noted that heat produced by
a wood fire varies greatly with kind of wood burned. Beech is considered best wood for a fire. A cord of wellseasoned Beech will produce as much heat as 169 gallons of fuel oil; Sugar Maple and Red Oak produce as much
heat as 166 gallons of fuel oil; followed by White Ash 154; American Elm 130; White Birch 124; and White Pine
94.
20
Page 21
BUILDING A FIRE:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Place “Manual/Off/Automatic” switch in “Automatic” (bottom) position for thermostat control operation. Turn
rheostat knob clockwise (it will click from “Off” position to “On”) so you can vary the speed of motor.
Open door.
While looking inside firebox, operate damper bypass plate in and out observing movement. This should operate
freely and close completely. Open damper bypass.
Open air controls on each side of stove (pull out).
Twist 4 or 5 pieces of non-colored newspaper in a roll and place on floor of firebox.
The Model 91 Bay is not designed for use with grates, andirons or other methods of supporting the fuel.
NOTE: “Do not use grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly on inner bottom of fire box.”
3.
4.
5.
Lay several pieces of dry kindling on top of newspaper.
Place three or four small pieces of firewood, 2-3" in diameter, on top of kindling.
Light newspaper, close and latch door. Don’t leave fire unattended at this point. The draft should start quickly. If
not, it may be necessary to preheat the chimney to get draft started. To do this, open door and add newspaper to
top rear of the wood. Light or let this paper ignite and allow to burn while holding door slightly open. Do not leave
the stove unattended with door open! Once draft has started, close and lock door. A direct connect (option)
usually solves this problem. Check with your dealer.
6. After embers and a coal bed have been established, load heater with natural seasoned hard wood, placing it from
front to rear. DO NOT BUILD A LARGE ROARING FIRE! Initially, build 2-3 small fires in order to cure the
paint on your stove.
7. Within 20 minute time frame, you can begin to add your wood. Remember—DO NOT FILL firebox during your
first 2 to 3 fires!
8. Once your fire is burning well, and probe has reached 600ºF, close bypass damper completely (push in). Gradually
close primary air controls (push in). You will have to experiment with primary air controls to accommodate your
draft. If you close them to soon, your fire may die down to quickly and go out. Close them gradually, a little at a
time, until you can close completely.
NOTE: THE FUELING DOOR MUST REMAIN CLOSED DURING OPERATION.
NOTE: Your stove is equipped with a automatic thermostat. When the stove gets hot enough, the thermostat will
activate the room air blower. Set fan speed according to desired heat output.
NOTE: When refueling or removing ashes turn “OFF” room air blower. Be sure to turn room air blower back
on when finished.
NOTE: Do not run power cord underneath heater, or in walk way or heavy traffic areas.
BURN RATES
A. Low Burn Rate: Set primary air controls (both) almost closed - leave open about 1/8". Set rheostat for fan
control between low to medium speed. This burn rate is most desired and most efficient, but can only be
achieved after a fire has been established and burning on its own controlled air. Close the bypass damper (push
in).
B. Medium-Low Burn Rate: Partially close primary air controls (push halfway in). Close bypass damper (push
in). Set the rheostat for fan control halfway between low and high.
C. Medium-High Burn Rate: Set primary air controls almost fully open. Close bypass damper. Set rheostat for
fan control between medium position and high position.
D. High Burn Rate: Set primary air controls wide open. Have damper closed. Set rheostat for fan control all
way on high. USE CAUTION! Close shotgun air control after 5 minutes.
E. Wood Loading: During refueling, open (pull out) bypass damper to allow smoke in the firebox to escape wait a few seconds, slowly add wood. Immediately close door and bypass damper. Open primary air control
wide open for 2 minutes to charge wood. After most of wood has burned and if you are not planning on
reloading immediately, it may be necessary to open damper bypass, then door, and rake wood and coals into a
pile near front center of firebox. (Be certain wood chunks are pulled out of rear corners.) Close door and
damper bypass. This step will assure continued combustion and thorough burning of wood.
You will have to experiment with fire rate until you find the particular setting for heating your home. Chimney drafts,
tightness of house, doors, windows, insulation in house and atmospheric conditions all influence which setting you
must have, so it may take several firings to learn setting necessary for your installation. Heating capacity is based on
BTU output and conditions listed above. These conditions will affect heating capability of your heater.
Although catalytic stoves decrease ash residue, routine removal of excess ash is still necessary.
21
Page 22
SECTION VI
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE / PARTS REPLACEMENT
THE CATALYSTS
The catalysts in your stove are designed for many years of use. If after several years of use, the efficiency of
stove decreases or if a notable amount of smoke is observed, catalysts may need to be replaced. See Catalyst
Warranty prior to replacement. The following points are some general guidelines from catalyst manufacturer.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Do not “hot fire” stove. For many years retailers and installers have advised customers to build an extra hot
fire to burn creosote deposits in fire system. This advice may be acceptable for non-cat stoves, but can be
death to a catalyst. Why? Because the catalyst is reducing the particulate, or creosote buildup, therefore
need to “hot fire” is eliminated. Proper chimney cleaning procedure should be followed.
Direct Flame contact is death to a catalyst. A catalyst burns by-products in the smoke. The gases such as
CO, HC, and O2 ignite with each other in a chemical reaction in presence of the catalyst (while passing
through the honeycomb configuration). Direct flame inhibits this reaction by changing chemical make-up of
catalyst breaking down substrate or ceramic. This problem is called flame impingement. Today’s modern
stoves are designed so that flame impingement is unlikely. However, a strong, fast draft can pull flame into
catalyst. Or, a hot fire, with all air controls and/or the ash door open can literally torch the catalyst. The
remedy for hot fire related flame is to advise customers not to “hot fire” stove. The customer will enjoy their
catalysts longer and with better performance if these guidelines are followed. Fly ash problems also can be
reduced by controlling draft.
The “Glow” Misconception: A catalyst can glow during certain stages of combustion. The determination
that a catalyst is not working simply because it does not glow is inaccurate. During low burn cycle, when
catalyst is doing the bulk of its work, it usually does not glow. Also, extremely dry wood (oak, ash, etc.) can
burn clean enough not to produce a glow in converter. In most new stoves, you cannot see catalyst.
Light Off Temperature: CO conversation in the Applied Ceramics catalyst begins at a very low
temperature. Usually, a normal start up to produce a coal bed will produce more than sufficient temperatures
to begin catalytic combustion.
The catalyst is not consumed or “used up”. The nature of a catalytic reaction is defined as follows, by the
American Heritage Dictionary, Second College Edition: catalyst “1. Chem. A substance, usually present in
small amounts relative to reactants, that modifies and especially increases rate of a chemical reaction
without being consumed in process.” This means your catalyst is always there. This also means that gases
that would normally go out flue system and pollute the environment are being burned to create more heat
from less wood.
Why does a catalyst stop working? Most catalyst that are returned are either destroyed by flame
impingement, broken due to accidents or mishandling or have nothing wrong with them but fly ash build-up.
A catalyst can be “saturated” with by-products of wood burning such as potassium. This is chemical
saturation. The prohibitive chemical will fill in the chemical “holes” that gases normally use for reaction.
This process of saturation can be slowed by regular maintenance of catalyst. Saturation can take several
years since there are units in use for over five years. Burning garbage, painted woods or large amounts of
colored paper can poison your unit. Poisoning, however, is very difficult to do. Burning colored paper
causes more of a fly ash problem than a risk of poisoning. NEVER BURN RUBBER OR PLASTIC.
Burn only dried natural seasoned hard wood. Wood should be dried for at least 12 months prior to burning.
The wood should be FREE of any moisture such as RAIN or SNOW. Wet wood creates water vapor which
can drop the temperature of catalyst. The results can be plugging, clogging and thermal shock to catalyst.
When a catalyst has ceased to be effective, you will notice increased fuel usage and your chimney sweep will
notice increased creosote in your system. Before you replace unit, review this section. If you find that your
catalyst should be replaced, follow instructions for warranty replacement that were provided when your unit
was purchased.
22
Page 23
8.
Cleaning catalyst with plain water can reduce build-up of catalyst-retarding chemicals. Nothing but a soft
brush, low pressure air or plain water should be used to clean a catalyst. The ceramic unit is fragile in
comparison to rest of the stove, so it should be handled with care. A soak in warm or hot (not boiling) water
for 20 minutes is ideal. Then, allow unit to cool at room temperature and rinse under medium pressure under
a faucet. Allow unit to thoroughly dry before reinstalling it or you will damage it. Finally, reinstall unit. A
cleaning once every year is sufficient for most users. Clean it when you have your flue system cleaned.
CATALYST REPLACEMENT (Off-Season Replacement Recommended)
1.
2.
3.
Spread a drop cloth in front of stove.
Open door and clean out any ash.
Using penetrating oil, generously lubricate eight (8) bolt threads holding catalyst housing in place.
Allow oil to penetrate.
4. Using a 9/16" wrench or 9/16" socket, loosen eight (8) nuts and remove catalyst housing (drop down)
and place in a suitable work area. BE CAREFUL removing the 8 nuts. If you break bolt, you will have to
drill out bolt (difficult) and wait for your dealer to order one! You do not want this to happen during
cold weather!
5. Using needle nose pliers, grasp front edge of stainless steel “cans” which houses catalytic element
and pull upward. Reposition pliers to another position and pull upward. Repeat procedure until catalyst
can be removed from housing.
6. Using a small putty knife or scraper, remove any gasket that may have adhered to catalyst housing.
7. Now, obtain new catalysts and wrap stainless steel “can” with interam gasket and tape ends together
using scotch tape or masking tape. IMPORTANT: BEFORE STARTING TO REPLACE CATALYST,
contact your dealer and order INTERAM gasket and CATALYST HOUSING Gasket. Gaskets not
covered under warranty. It may take your dealer several days to receive the gaskets.
8. Insert new catalysts into catalytic housing and push down until they are seated on the top of
stainless steel wire mesh supports.
9. Reinstall catalyst housing into stove and secure in place with bolts.
10. The stove is now ready for use.
DOOR GASKET REPLACEMENT (Cold Heater)
To replace deteriorated gaskets, the following steps must be taken to ensure proper installation of gaskets.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Obtain proper gaskets and silicone glue from your local dealer.
Using pliers, remove any worn and deteriorated gaskets.
Using a scraper, wire brush and sandpaper or steel wool, clean glue and gasket residue from door frame.
Measure and cut gaskets to length. Care should be taken not to stretch gaskets. What you want is a full and
loose gasket weave after attachment to framing.
5. Obtain silicone glue and run a 3/16" bead inside door frame.
6. Obtain gasket (s) and place in gasket channel areas. Use a technique which assures that gasket is applied in
a loose like manner. DO NOT STRETCH GASKETS.
7. After gasket (s) are applied to glue, use your finger and go over all gasket gently pressing gasket into
channel. Use same pressure against gasket so that final result is an evenly applied gasket.
8. Leave door open and allow at least one hour for glue to dry.
9. Once gaskets are checked, heater is ready for use.
10. This should be done annually. Allowing gaskets to deteriorate can cause over-firing and shorten burn time.
Page 23
24
MOTOR ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
(Motor, Thermostat, Rheostat, Wiring Harness)
1.
Unplug heater from 115V AC outlet.
2.
To replace motor you must first take cover door off. Do this by removing two screws holding it in place.
3.
Next, you will find a wire cage protecting you from electrical components of this unit. By looking to right
of ash pan, you will find two screws that hold wire cage in place. Remove two screws. You will also find a
screw at bottom right of wire cage. Remove this screw. It will be easier to remove cage if you first take the
knob and nut from the rheostat that is hooked to the cage. Lay cage aside.
4.
To remove motor simply unhook wire servicing motor. Take two screws holding motor bracket on.
5.
Gently slide motor out and while pulling it out moving the rear of motor facing you from right to left in a
counterclockwise motion.
6.
To replace the thermostat follow steps 1 through 3 and then gently push the thermostat up out of bracket.
7.
To rewire motor, rheostat and thermostat see Figures 10.
8.
To replace motor turn motor so that 4"x4" air discharge opening is pointing toward rear of stove. The flat
part of motor housing is turned up. With the air discharge opening pointing in the 2 o’clock position, start in
toward unit rotating rear of motor clockwise. The air discharge opening of motor housing fits in a cavity
in rear of unit that will direct air flow to proper location. Make sure air discharge opening is located firmly
in opening. Replace motor bracket to motor.
9.
Hook up wiring to all three components if you have replaced or unhooked them.
10. Replace rheostat on to screen housing. Fasten screen housing to vertical bar to right of ash pan. Also
fasten motor bracket to bar at same time.
11. Replace screw at bottom of screen guard. Replace cover door.
12. Plug heater back into a 115V AC outlet.
24
Page 25
WIRING SCHEMATIC
OFF
AUTO/MAIN
SWITCH
Page 25
26
SECTION VII
TROUBLESHOOTING
Operation of any wood heater can create problems. While use of a catalytic-combustor equipped stove will
substantially lessen some of these problems– such as creosote formation– other traditional wood heater problems
may remain.
The following guidelines apply to operation of all wood heaters, with problems related to catalytic heater
addressed where appropriate.
HEATER RELATED
PROBLEMS
1.
Problem
Sluggish Heater Performance
1.
Possible Cause
Obstruction in chimney
2.
Improperly sealed trim kit or
direct connect kit
3.
Manual damper in chimney is
closed
4.
5.
Closing bypass or exhaust
damper too soon
Poor chimney draft
6.
Combustor is plugged
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
7. Wet or unseasoned wood being
burned
1.
2. High Fuel Consumption
1.
Inexperience in catalytic
operation
2.
Improper regulation of draft or
inlet air
3.
Air leaking around door frame
and/or glass
Bypass damper open
2.
3.
4.
Page 28
27
4.
Solution
Check cap and chimney and
remove obstruction.
Check trim kit gasket or direct
connect kit seal to fireplace
and gasket as necessary to seal
unit. Gasket under stove if
needed. Check seal or direct
connect and correct
Open manual damper and wire
shut with stainless steel wire or
remove damper
Follow New Buck instructions
for proper firing procedures
Flue may need extension.
Oversized flue may need direct
connect or positive liner.
See section in “Combustor
Related Problems”
Burn dry, natural seasoned
hard wood
Operate stove with desired heat
output in mind. Do not be
overly concerned with
maintaining light-off
temperatures
Close inlet air control as much
as possible to maintain desired
heat output. Check gaskets,
reinstall fiberglass gasketing
around doors and glass as
necessary
Check door gasket. Check
adjustment of door latch.
Close bypass damper
3.
4.
Backpuffing
Smoke Rollout when Heater
Door is Opened
1.
Gusts of wind / windy day
1.
2.
Hot combustor. (Above 1400o F)
2.
1.
2.
Bypass damper is closed
Opened door too soon after
opening bypass damper
1.
2.
If flue cap not on chimney,
install one.
Increase the amount of
combustion air slowly
Open bypass damper
Open bypass damper– wait 15
-30 seconds before slowly
opening door
Install flue cap
3. Wind gusts blowing
3.
1.
Bypass is open
1.
2.
Light-off not obtained
2.
3.
Fuel charge is spend
3.
4.
Combustor coated with fly ash or
soot
Heater damper down too much
4.
1.
Burning materials that produce a
lot of char and fly ash
1.
2.
Burning wet, pitchy wood or
burning large loads of smalldiameter wood with the
combustor in the operating
position without light-off taking
place
2.
Catalyst Peeling
1.
Extreme temperatures at
combustor surface can cause the
catalyst to peel. Over-firing and
flame impingement are primary
causes
1.
If severe, remove and replace
catalysts. See “Catalyst
Replacement” Section VI.
Avoid extreme temperatures
3. Catalyst Masking
1.
Not maintaining light-off
temperatures
1.
See Section VI and review
operating instruction.
5.
Low Catalytic Temperature
5.
5.
Once light-off temperatures
have been reached and unit is
stabilized, close bypass
Follow manufacturer’s
operating instructions
Refuel as necessary for
combustor operation
See Section VII “Preventive
Maintenance”
Ensure that proper air mixture
and draft are available for
wood to burn proper
COMBUSTOR-RELATED
PROBLEMS
1.
2.
Plugging
Page 29
28
Do not burn materials such as
garbage, gift wrap or
cardboard
Burn dry, natural seasoned
hard wood. Don’t place the
combustor in the operating
position until high
temperatures are high enough
to initiate light-off
NEW BUCK CORPORATION (NBC)
“LIMITED WARRANTY” FOR NBC RELATED PRODUCTS
PLEASE READ THIS WARRANTY CAREFULLY
PRODUCTS COVERED
This warranty covers heating unit so long as it is
owned by original purchaser, including optional and
standard accessories purchased at same time, subject to
terms, limitations and conditions herein set out.
If for any reason you are dissatisfied with the suggested procedures, you may contact us in writing at:
NEW BUCK CORPORATION
Customer Service Department
P. O. Box 69
Spruce Pine, NC 28777
PRODUCTS NOT COVERED
CONDITIONS AND EXCLUSIONS
This warranty does not cover the following:
Glass, Refractory material or firebrick, Gaskets.
(A) Replacement of parts may be in form of new or
fully reconditioned parts, at NBC’s option.
(B) There are no other warranties express or implied
including warranties of Merchantability, Fitness
for Purpose or Otherwise except those warranties
expressly stated herein.
(C) New Buck Corporation is not liable for indirect,
incidental or consequential damages in
connection with the use of the product including
any cost or expense or providing substitute
equipment or service during periods of malfunction or non-use. Some states do not allow
exclusion of incidental or consequential
damages, so the above exclusion may not apply
to you.
(D) All warranty repairs under this warranty must be
performed by an authorized Buck Stove service
representative. Repairs or attempted repairs by
anyone other than an authorized service
representative are not covered under this
warranty. In addition, these unauthorized repairs
may result in additional malfunctions, correction
of which is not covered by warranty.
This warranty will not cover any damage and/or failure
caused by abuse or improper installation of products
covered.
WARRANTY TIME PERIODS
(A) Period I
For one (1) year from date of purchase, NBC will
replace or repair, at its option, any part defective in
materials or workmanship. The costs of parts only are
included. The customer pays any labor or transportation
charges required.
Thereafter
(B) Period II
For period after the first (5) year from the date of
purchase and extending for five (5) years as long as
related product is owned by original purchaser, NBC
will repair or replace, at its option, any part defective in
materials or workmanship, with exception of: electrical
motors, wiring, switches and components; optional and
standard accessories; and all parts not permanently
attached to heating unit. Parts not permanently
attached to heating unit are defined as those items
designed to be removed from unit, including those
removable with common hand tools. The cost of parts
only are included. The customer pays any labor or
transportation charges required.
PROCEDURE
Should you feel that your heater is defective, you
should contact any NBC dealer for name of your
nearest authorized heater service representative, who
will instruct you on proper procedure, depending on
which Warranty Time Period (Period I or Period II)
applies.
OTHER RIGHTS
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you
may also have other rights, which vary from state to
state.
OWNER REGISTRATION CARD
The attached Owner Registration Card must be
completed in its entirety and mailed within 30 days
from date of purchase or from date of installation, if
installed by a factory certified installer, to New Buck
Corporation, in order for warranty coverage to begin.
PLEASE NOTE: The Owner Registration Card must
contain the Authorized Dealer Code Number and the
Certified Installer’s number (if applicable) for
warranty coverage to begin.
Page 30
29
To be completed by selling distributor or dealer for customer:
OWNER REGISTRATION CARD
Name _________________________________________________________________________________
(Last)
(First)
Address _______________________________________________________________________________
City ______________________________________
State ________________
Zip_____________
CUSTOMER EMAIL::_________________________________________________________
Model 91 Bay _________ Insert: Residential _________
Model 91 Bay _________ Freestanding: Residential _________
Serial No. ________________________
Date of Installation: Day _________
Month ________________
Installer’s Name _______________________________
Year _____________
Certification No. ______________________
Dealer Name ___________________________________________________________________________
City _________________________________________
State ________________________
Dealer No. _________________________________
Distributor Name _______________________________________________________________________
Distributor No. ____________________
Is appliance customer self-installed?
Yes ________ No _______
Has appliance been completely checked out?
Yes _______
Has customer been given appliance and operation orientation?
_______ a)
_______ b)
_______ c)
_______ d)
_______ e)
_______ f)
Damper/Door Vents
Door-Handle/ Removing
Thermostat-Normal Operation
Hot Surface Area
Speed Control (Rheostat)
Switch—Manual/Off/Auto
Has customer been given WARRANTY REVIEW?
No _______
Yes ________
No ________
_______ g) Paint Curing
_______ h) Chimney Safety
_______ i ) Rain Cap
_______ j) Wood Preparation
_______ k) Installation
_______ l) Instructions & Clearances Self-Installation
Yes _______
No _______
CUSTOMER SIGNATURE ______________________________________________________
New Buck Review
DATE __________________________
Mail to:
NEW BUCK CORPORATION
P.O. Box 69
200 Ethan Allen Dr.
Spruce Pine, NC 28777

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