3DHobbyShop.com AJ Slick Assembly Manual

Add to my manuals
29 Pages

advertisement

3DHobbyShop.com AJ Slick Assembly Manual | Manualzz

3DHobbyShop.com

AJ Slick 89” Assembly Manual

Thank you for purchasing this 3DHobbyShop ARF RC aircraft. If you have any issues, questions, concerns or problems during assembly, please contact our tech department at:

[email protected]

or 1-830-990-6978 10am-5pm Central M-F

SAFETY in Assembly

During assembly of this aircraft, you will be asked to use sharp knives, hot irons, and hobby adhesives.

Please follow all safety procedures recommended by the manufacturers of the products you use, and always follow these important guidelines:

ALWAYS protect your eyes when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools. Safety glasses are the best way to protect your eyes.

ALWAYS protect your body, especially your hands and fingers when using adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools. Do not cut toward exposed skin with hobby knives. Do not place hobby knives on tables or benches where they can roll off or be knocked off.

ALWAYS have a first-aid kit handy when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools.

ALWAYS keep hobby equipment and supplies out of the reach of children.

SAFETY in Flying

ALWAYS fly your aircraft in a safe area, away from spectators.

ALWAYS fly your aircraft in a safe manner, within your control.

NEVER fly too close to yourself.

ALWAYS wear eye protection while operating your model aircraft.

ALWAYS keep your hands and body clear of propellers.

ALWAYS observe lipoly battery safety procedures.

ALWAYS handle gasoline in a safe manner.

ALWAYS perform a ground test and range check of your radio system before flying.

REQUIRED ITEMS

Drill and drill bits

30 Minute Epoxy Glue (NOT 5-minute Epoxy)

Hobby Knife

Phillips Screwdriver

Set Metric Allen Wrenches

Small Pliers

Wire Cutters

Rubbing Alcohol

Paper Towels

Blue Loctite thread-locking adhesive

Dremel-type rotary tool

Small adjustable wrench or wrench set

IMPORTANT NOTE: 3DHS Recommends ONLY High-Torque, Digital, Metal-gear Servos for this aircraft. Suitable part numbers include Hitec HS-7955TG, JR 8611A, and JR 8711A. DO NOT

attempt to use nylon-geared servos on this airplane.

THIS AIRCRAFT IS NOT A TOY! IT IS A HIGH PERFORMANCE AEROBATIC AIRCRAFT AND

IMPROPER SETUP AND/OR USE COULD RESULT INJURY OR DEATH.

Assembly Instructions

UNPACK

Unpack your airplane and examine the components. Check for damage of any kind. If you find any damage, contact 3DHobbyShop and report the damage.

COVERING SEAMS

There are many seams in the covering on this aircraft where one color meets another. We recommend using a covering iron or trim sealing tool to go over all of the covering seams on your Extra. This will help to prevent any peeling of the covering. Repeat this periodically.

WRINKLES

Your Slick was packed at the factory without any wrinkles in the covering. You may notice some wrinkles now; more likely, you will notice a few in a day or two or the first time you take the plane out to the flying field. These wrinkles are the result of wood shrinkage and/or expansion. Balsa wood changes size and shape slightly as it is exposed to varying humidity in the air. This is a natural property of balsa wood. As your airplane adjusts to the weather in your part of the world, wrinkles may appear and disappear.

Wrinkles may be removed with the gentle application of heat to the covering material on your airplane, using an iron and/or heat gun. Apply the heat gently: the covering material will shrink as you apply the heat, and this will remove the wrinkles. BE CAREFUL! Too much heat applied too quickly can damage the covering, either by causing it to pull away from the wood at seams and corners or even by melting it.

Wrinkles do not affect flight performance.

COVERING MATERIAL

Your Slick is covered with genuine OraCover material, and we have included repair sections in your kit. If you need to repair larger sections, matching covering is sold at most hobby stores under the “UltraCote” brand.

Hinging the Rudder

Your Slick uses hinge-point type hinges. The aileron and elevator hinging is done for you already. You will need to hinge the rudder.

The hinging procedure is illustrated below using a typical surface, in this case a horizontal stab, but your rudder uses the same procedure.

Apply the Vaseline only to the center of the hinge point where the two halves hinge together. We have also used oil applied with a syringe, but the Vaseline stays in the center of the hinge point better than oil.

Apply 30 minute Epoxy glue to the inside of the holes in one surface. In the following photo, we are using the end of a nylon zip-tie to apply the epoxy inside the hole.

Insert the hinge points into one side, and carefully align them so that they sit perfectly centered in their holes.

Clean up any excess epoxy which comes out of the holes with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

Make sure the hinge points are properly centered and aligned, and set the surface aside to allow the glue to cure.

Once the glue has cured, repeat the procedure to install the opposite surface. Push the other surface up tight against the first one; they should almost touch. Please see photos. Use paper towel and rubbing alcohol to clean up any excess epoxy. Allow to dry fully.

Landing gear

User blue loctite to lock all of the screws on the tailwheel assembly and re-tighten them.

Attach the tailwheel to the bottom of the fuse as shown with 3 x 3mm screws and washers. Use blue loctite on these screws.

The main axles must be shortened .25” (6mm) with a dremel or similar tool or a hacksaw. WEAR EYE

PROTECTION when shortening the axles. Place one wheel collar over the axle, then the main wheel, then the other collar and tighten as shown.

Note: the supplied wheels are lightweight models. If you fly from a rough field or like to do harrier landings often, HD wheels are a good upgrade.

Insert the wheels and axles into the wheel pants and attach to the main landing gear with the nylock nuts.

Install two Phillips-head screws through the landing gear and into the pants as shown.

Tighten the 3mm hex screws inside the fuselage that hold the aluminum angle brackets to the tunnel sides.

Attach the main gear to the fuselage using 4 x 4mm screws, washers, and locknuts.

Attach the cover plate over the landing gear screws using epoxy glue or silicone adhesive.

Elevator and Aileron Control Horns

Your Slick features phenolic control horns. The slots for the horns are pre-cut into all of the control surfaces.

You will need to remove the covering over each of these locations. The best way to trim covering on this aircraft is with a hot pencil-tip soldering iron. This method gives a clean cut and also seals the edges of the covering at the cut line. You can also use a hobby knife if you cannot use a soldering iron for this job, but the iron is recommended.

1. First, locate the control horn location in each control surface.

2. Cut away the covering over the two slots.

3. Assemble the control horns as shown, and temporarily push the horn into the slots in the control surface (do not use glue at this time).

4. Using a pencil o marker, mark around the outside of the square base of the control horn.

5. Remove the horn and use the soldering iron to trim the covering just inside the square mark you made with the pencil.

6. The control horns will need to be trimmed as shown. Use a dremel tool with a sanding drum attachment. Do this work in a well-ventilated area and use eye protection!

7. Apply 30-minute epoxy liberally to the bottom of the horn and to the wood of the control surface.

Install the horn. Wipe up excess epoxy with a paper towel and alcohol. Temporarily install a 3mm bolt through the bolt holes to ensure proper alignment of the two horn halves. Allow the epoxy to cure.

Rudder control horn

Your Slick is equipped with two rudder servo locations.

If you use a lightweight engine, such as most 50CC singles, use the forward rudder servo location in the fuselage and the pull-pull cables. If you are using a larger engine such as 58-70CC you can use the rear servo location and pushrod to move the CG back if required. Both positions are illustrated below:

Pull-Pull style horn-

The rudder pull-pull control horn is installed in a similar fashion, except that it is double-sided. Remove the covering on both sides of the rudder over the slots as you did for the elevators and ailerons, apply epoxy to the center of the two horn pieces, and install into the rudder. Use alcohol to clean any excess epoxy and temporarily insert two 3mm bolts through the holes in the horn to ensure alignment while the glue cures.

Trim the rudder horn outer holes away (as on the other horns) if necessary to match the width of your rudder servo horn.

Rear–mount servo horn

The rear rudder servo location uses the same rudder horn location, but install the single-sided rudder horn instead of the double-sided. See photo:

Take your soldering iron or hobby knife and remove the covering over the necessary locations in the fuselage as shown:

For wing bolt, anti-rotation pins and aileron extensions

For the horizontal stabilizer bolts, pins, servo wires and rudder pull-pull cables if used.

For canister tunnel covers (if canister-style muffler is to be used)

Also remove covering over the rear access port as shown. This port is used to access the pull-string for the elevator servo extensions, and also can be used to make any repairs ever needed to the tail-wheel mount or to add tail-weight easily if desired.

This plate is held in-place by 3mm nuts and washers.

Pull-Pull cables

The pull-pull cables for the rudder are assembled as shown in the following diagram:

Assemble the pull-pull cables at the rudder end first, as shown, and feed the cables through the slots in the fuselage and pull them to the front of the fuselage. Cross them to form an “X” inside the fuselage.

Center the rudder servo. Install the rudder servo as shown.

Assemble the pull-pull ends and ball joints onto the rudder servo arm as shown, and attach the pull-pull cable using the same technique as before.

Adjust the lengths of the pull-pull cable to get good tension (just snug, with no sag, and no play in the rudder – “banjo-string” tight pull-pull wires will not make your plane fly better, but they will wear out your servo).

When you are finished adjusting the pull-pull cables, apply thin CA glue to each of the crimps.

Exhaust Canister Muffler Installation

The Slick includes pre-fabricated mounts for the MTW TD-75K short canister muffler, available from

Desert Aircraft.

Slide the canister part-way into the canister tunnel, you will need to twist the can as it goes in to clear the fuselage former. Find the two canister mounts, pictured below. Note that the front canister mount is slightly taller than the rear mount.

Slide the canister mounts loosely onto the canister as shown-

Push the canister mounts up into place, tightly in front of and behind the landing gear plate.

When you have the mounts fully into position as shown, tack them in place with CA glue and then apply epoxy to permanently mount them.

Pre-drill the screw holes, and use 4 wood screws to attach the canister-cover plate and 4 screws to attach the outlet plate.

Engine Mounting

The Slick can use a variety of 50-70CC single cylinder engines. This manual shows the installation of a

DA-50. Other engines are similar. Templates are included to locate the mounting holes for the DA-50

(same as DL-50, although you may need to very slightly slot the holes to fit the DL) and 3W engines.

The correct distance between the firewall mounting surface and the prop mounting surface on the front of the engine is 6 and ¾” inches. Tape the pattern in-place on the firewall as shown and drill the engine mounting holes. Included on the pattern is the location for the throttle-pushrod slot for use with the throttle-servo location in the bottom of the motor box. Note that this may require you to flip the carburetor over on some 50CC engines. Remove the pattern after drilling.

Using threadlocker on all mounting hardware, attach your motor to the firewall. It is a good idea to use large washers on the back of the firewall to spread the load. Loctite all mounting fasteners!

We have provided more than enough fasteners to secure the firewall to the engine box, if one of your engine-mounting bolts interferes with one of the firewall attaching screws, remove the firewall attaching screw if necessary – the engine-mounting bolt will take over its job, provided that your washer overlaps the aluminum angle-iron bracket.

You have several options for mounting your throttle servo. We have provided a location in the bottom of the engine-mounting box behind the firewall. This hole is cut for a full-size servo. The throttle linkage rod and ball-joint are included in your kit.

We have also included two servo mounting boxes for full-size servos. These can be used to place throttle and choke servos anywhere you need within the engine mounting box. The choke linkage is provided in the kit. Use good epoxy glue to attach these servo mounting boxes to the airframe. Note that if you use the throttle servo location in the bottom of the engine box, you can use one of the servo boxes as a heat shield to protect the throttle servo from the exhaust header.

Mount the ignition box using a piece of foam rubber between the box and airframe to isolate the box from vibration.

Fuel Tank

We recommend a two-line system for fuel, installed as follows:

Assemble the fuel tank as shown, using small nylon zip-ties as hose clamps to retain the flexible fuel tubing onto the rigid metal tubing. Place a piece of foam rubber under the tank to isolate the tank from vibration, and install the long nylon ties through the slots in the tray as shown.

The fuel-feed line runs from the tank, to either a Du-Bro gasoline filler valve or a Y-connector and fuel dot, and then to the carburetor. Run the vent line as shown to prevent fuel loss during aerobatics.

Run the vent line into the cowl and out the bottom as shown:

Cowl Installation

The Slick cowl must be cut to allow clearance for the cylinder, spark plug, and muffler (if canister is not used) of the engine. We recommend the use of a dremel rotary tool for this step. Use eye protection and work in a well-ventilated area. Use a piece of stiff paper or card stock for a pattern as shown below.

Use scissors to cut out this shape and adjust the cutout as needed.

Transfer your cutout dimension onto the cowl, using the tracing of the alignment tabs for alignment.

Cut out this shape with the dremel.

Attach the cowl to the fuselage using three 3mm bolts from the back of the fuselage former and 2 wood screws from the bottom through the alignment tabs. If you need to adjust your engine location to correct for cowl-to-spinner fit, this is accomplished by removing the engine-to-firewall bolts and using the dremel tool to slightly elongate the holes into slots. If you need to space the spinner forward for clearance to the cowl, use washers in-between the engine and firewall as necessary to achieve a 1/8” to ¼” clearance between the cowl and the spinner backplate.

Elevator Servos and Horizontal Stabs

Mount your elevator servos inside the horizontal stabilizers as shown.

Center the servos, and slide your servo arms onto the servo output splines. Rotate the servos and arms as necessary to access all fasteners to lock the arms in-place. Use threadlocker if indicated by the servoarm manufacturer. We also use a dab of silicone adhesive on the servo arm screw to lock it in place against vibration.

Assemble the elevator pushrod as shown. The elevator pushrods are the shorter of the included pushrods. The longer ones are for the ailerons and rudder (if rear location is used). Note that the pushrods have one left-hand thread and one right-hand thread, so that you can adjust their length after they are installed.

Assemble the pushrod onto the servo arm and control horn as shown.

The Slick includes a fiberglass tube installed into the fuselage to assist in cleanly routing your elevator servo extensions into the rear of the fuselage. A pull-string is pre-installed to help pull your servo extensions through the fiberglass tube.

Install the horizontal stabilizers onto the fuselage using the carbon-fiber tube spar. The horizontal stabs are retained by two screws on each side, as shown. For a permanent stab installation, use threadlocker on these screws. If you wish to allow the stabs to be removed for transportation, you must inspect these screws frequently, as vibration will loosen any unlocked hardware.

Aileron Servos

Remove the covering over the servo openings in the bottom of the wings. Attach an 12-18” extension to the aileron servo and secure the extension as before. A pull-string is provided to help guide the extension through the wing.

Install the servo with the servo head toward the front of the airplane, and attach the pushrod as you did for the elevator.

Wing Attachment

The wing attaches to the fuselage with one nylon thumb-screw per side.

Your carbon-fiber wing tube is a snug fit into the wings and fuselage. This provides additional strength and fatigue resistance. As a result, you may need to periodically lubricate your wing tube. We recommend non-stick cooking spray or silicone spray-lube for this job. Your wings will be an especially snug fit onto the tube the first several times you install them. Go slowly and patiently to prevent damage the first several times.

Radio Installation Notes

We have provided switch locations for two full-size switch on each side of the fuselage, as well as a 6mm hole for a Smart-Fly flag-style safety switch if desired. We also mount our fuel filler or fuel dot in this area, as shown.

Electric Power Installation

The Slick flies very well as an electric. Recommended motors include:

Hacker A60-18L and A80-8

Reaper GR-70

A plywood piece is supplied to block off the exhaust canister tunnel if needed for electric applications.

To mount your electric motor, create a mounting template for your particular motor mount on paper.

Match up the center of your template with the thrust-line center on the firewall, and mark your hole locations. Be sure to use blue Loctite on all of your fasteners. When assembling your motor mount, the correct distance from the firewall to the back of your spinner is 6 and ¾ inches.

You will need additional cooling air over your batteries. Leave the access plate on the top of the enginemounting box open, and we recommend making another hole the same size in the bottom of the motor box, by expanding the throttle-servo mounting hole, this will allow air to enter the fuselage. You will need an air exit, as well. Make this by removing some of the covering on the bottom of the fuselage behind the wing. We typically remove 2 squares, but you can remove more as needed to keep your batteries cool.

The canopy hatch is supplied with the floor pre-installed. The rear of the hatch is left open so you can do any necessary work inside the cockpit area. When you have completed any work inside the cockpit, use

CA glue to install the balsa rear plate onto the canopy hatch.

The canopy hatch is held onto the fuselage with 3mm nylon thumbscrews. These thumbscrews require no tools to install or remove and are very convenient – but because they are plastic they will not last forever. Inspect them frequently – spares are included in your kit. You can also use a 3mm allen-bolt and washer if desired.

Center of Gravity - Measure at WINGTIP. 4.5 inches back from leading edge is preferred.

Allowable range is 4.0” to 5.0”

Control Setup:

Throws High Rate

Ailerons – 45 degrees

Elevator – 50-55 degrees

Rudder – Maximum throw available without interference

High rate controls typically use 50-75% exponential

Throws Mid Rate (if used)

Ailerons - 30 degrees

Elevators - 35 degrees

Rudder - Maximum throw

Throws Low Rate

Ailerons – 20 degrees

Elevator – 20 degrees

Ruder – 30 degrees

advertisement

Was this manual useful for you? Yes No
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the workof artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Related manuals

Download PDF

advertisement