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CPFAFFD
INSTRUCTION B00K
¶1
CPFAFFD
Automatic 332-260 iNSTRUCTIONS
FOREWORD
Your dream has come true!
You are now the proud owner of a PFAFF 332-260
Automatic
—
— the sewing machine with unlimited possibilities.
machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fun
This instruction book will help you understand the for you.
Even if you are on experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing
—
—
PFAFF
Automatic Sewing.
Follow these simple instructions and famitiarize yourself with the exclusive automatic features of
You will find sewing exciting on your easy-to-operate
PFAFF Automatic.
your machine.
If you hove any sewing problems, please contact your Pfaff dealer. He will be glad to help you at any time.
G-M.PFAFFAG
Sewing Machine Factory
Ka ise rsta utern
4 5
/
6
I
5-
14-
1 Thread take-up lever
2 Top control cover (A)
3 Dial (B)
4 Embroidery pattern length lever (E)
5 Buttonhole slide lever
6
Bobbin winder
7 Slop motion knob
8 Stitch length stop control
9 Stitch length (forward-reverse)
10 Light switch lever
11 Drop feed control
12 Needle plate
2
13
14 Needle
15 Upper tension
16
17
18
SewlighI swing-out fever
Needle position lever (C)
Stitch width control (D)
R 7379
19
20
21
22
23
30
R 7383
19 Balance wheel
20 Collapsible 5pOol pins
21 Top cover
22 Face cover
23 Presser bar lever
24 Needle threader lever
25 Automatic needle threader
26 Sewing foot
27 Snap-out workplate
28 Free arm
3
29
30
31
32
33
Receptacle for foot control plug
Receptacle for power cord plug
Sewlight
Needle set screw
Free arm fop cover
naI%.nea1s
/iac.4i,w
Ceaticn
Make sure stop motion knob 6 is tightened fore you begin sewing (clockwise be as indicated by white arrow).
0 Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel a, turn it toward you (counter-clockwise as shown by black arrow).
Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the presser foot.
Raise presser bar lever c and place both threads under and behind the sewing foot. Slide ma terial under needle, lower sewing foot you’re ready to sew.
—— and
4
Luqctant 7cins ic
R 6808
A woman sewing by hand will nor mally draw one stitch tight before making another. On a sewing ma chine, this is done automatically by take-up lever d.
chine under t
I
The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot automatically. All you have to do is guide the work. Never try to hasten feeding by pushing or pulling the fabric while stitching because the needle may bend or break.
--4
5
Therefore, always turn the balance wheel toward you until the take-up lever is at its highest position before you begin and after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe this rule may cause the thread to tangle under the needle plate or slip out of the needle eye.
‘7he $nq-Cs.t tOorkvtae
Your PFAFF Automatic has a snap-out workplate which can be raised to give you a full size work area for flat sewing and embroi dery. To raise workplate, pull it out to the left as for as it will go, then lift it until it is flush with the needle plate. Now let it snap into position.
When you want to use the free arm for darn ing, lower the workplote, proceeding in re verse order.
Larger articles may require a larger work surface. To further increase the sewing area, attach the workptate extension which is in the carrying case. Swing out the collapsible legs.
6
cL2c&iat
Dn&Hssthn
Make sure that the voltage indicated on the motor label (110 V) corresponds to the volt age in your home. (Check other appliances).
Push plug I of power cord into receptacle 2 on bock of machine, and plug
3 (at other end of cord) into wall outlet 4. Conned plug of foot control cord 5 with receptacle at balancewheel end of machine.
Place the foot control under the table within easy reach of your foot. Place your foot on the control and press.
The harder you press, the faster the machine will run.
During pauses in stitching, completely remove your foot from the control — do not allow it to rest there.
R 7132 jr
7
.4
Set:
Dial B —O
Control D
—
0
Lever E —0
Lever C
—
Centered
R6629
Lever f regulates the stitch length and controls forward and reverse sewing.
(Lever should be in vertical position be fore setting stitch length). Control e stops stitch on length desired.
Forward Sewing
Set eon number that indicates stitch length you want(1—5; the higher the number, the longer the stitch). Turn fright as far as it will go.
Reverse Sewing
Turn f left as far as it will go. (The reverse stitches will be the same length as forward stitches).
8
R 7066
.1
A
Le’
5th dc sa cr to si
Set: DiolB—O Lever E—O
Turn control D left to desired stitch width (indicoted by numbers I to 4; the higher the number, the wider the stitch).
Do not move C or D while needle is in fabric.
R 7071
2
A
Lever f lengthens zigzag stitches or pocks them more closely together. To form the satin stitch graduolly de crease stitch length almost to 0 until you get the de sired effect.
Al
Lever C changes needle position from left to right. Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the needle plate slot.
To change needle position, press ever C down and mov, into:
Notch I
—
The needle is at the extreme left of the needle plate slot in straight sewing and swings to the right in zigzag stitching.
Notch 2— The needle is centered is the needle plate slot in straight sewing, and swings both ways in zigzag stitching.
Notch 3—The needle is at the extreme right of the needle plate slot in straight sewing, and swings to the left in zigzag stitching.
Pointer z indicates the position of the needle on the top scale.
9
R 6631
B
$etémn9
/i’Za€.
6,t
Au,iatic cm
Set: Lever E.-3
Swing back the cover on control A.
Your embroidery design dial shows all the pri mary designs you con make with the Automatic.
Pick your design and turn the dial so it points to that design. The numbers in the slot indicate the machine dial settings which will give you the design you have chosen.
For example:
Turn A (clockwise) so 3 is opposite n.
Turn B (clockwise) so 5 is at top.
D
Set stitch length lever f (page 8) so stitches are closely
If embroidery design dial shows no symbol disregard them.
packed.
for lever C or control D,
For such designs C and D will operate automatically.
them.
Do not touch
10
R7072
A
B
C
D
A
If a won
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C
AB
Ea c con pea poi fou len sett dis
Au
B4’
If number 1, 2 or box C, move lever propriate slot. An
3 appears in
C to the ap arrow * or 0 that control in box D indicates to the right
D should be turned go without as far as it will applying force.
123
A
If a 2 appears in box
“1” and “2”. Pattern
D, you may set the want a narrower design, you may set is not clear, if D it dial exactly at “2”; somewhat lower, soy is set above “2”.
or, if you between
Machine Setting:
A 3, B 4, C 2
R 7095
A Big Advantage
Each of the primary of the PFAFF Automatic designs pictured on the embroidery design dial vary the ap
Therefore you can con be sewn in different lengths.
The pearance of the pattern length is controlled the stitch length.
pattern without changing and 7) and three
— by lever E, which has seven graduations pattern unnumbered. Maximum length by four numbered (1,3,5 length is obtained setting it on “1”.
by setting lever E
When it is set on on “7”, and minimum mechanism is
“0”, the Automatic disengaged.
A
Lever E at:
I
A
3 5
7
/Oin?in
th 2o6in
Hold balance wheel a and turn stop motion knob b all the way to the left (counter-clockwise).
Place spool of thread on right-hand spool pin. The bobbin thread should always be the same size as that used on the spool, or a little finer.
Pull thread from spool and lead it clockwise around thread retainer g, crossing the thread.
2 3
7100 h.
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6
R7067
0
Pull it through thread guide h.
Pass end of thread through slot in bobbin, from in side. Set bobbin on bobbin winder key ot base of spindle enters spindle so that slot in bobbin. Press in lever i.
Hold end of threod and slowly start machine.
off end of thread
Having wound a few turns, break and continue winding at a faster pace.
Bobbin winder will stop automatically when bobbin is full.
If you don’t wont a full bobbin, when sufficient amount of thread press out lever i has been wound.
You may continue sewing while without disconnecting balance you are winding bobbin wheel.
7
R 7097
R 7099
_________
.Dnwrtin
i9idt
73c66in
into 3
Case
0 As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you, and insert bobbin into bobbin case.
Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot.
Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the open ing at the end of the spring. Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case.
Hold the case by its open latch, so that the bobbin cannot fall out.
6030
Raise needle to its highest point and open cover j. Lift latch k with your forefinger. Pull out bobbin case with bobbin by holding the latch. When you release latch k, the empty bobbin drops out.
14
Dn.stin
th 66
Make sure the needle is still in its highest position.
With thumb arid forefinger of left hand, lift latch k case until slot at end of latch points up. Then place and turn bobbin it on center stud I of hook.
In replacing the bobbin case, it is best to hold the loose end of thread that it will not get jammed between bobbin case so and hook. Release latch k.
I.
I
I
R 7380
A
Press against bobbin case until you hear it snap into place. An improperly inserted bobbin case will cquse needle breakage.
Close cover
15
Typos of Fabrics
Fine Fabrics such as georgette, chiffon, batiste, voile, lawn, silk.
Mercerized
Cotton
Silk
80 to ioo
0 to
000 twist
Lightweight Fabrics such as dress silks and cottons, sheers, woolens, shirting, dra.
peries.
70 to
80
A & B twist
Needle
Size
60 or
70
80
Medium Fabrics such as lightweight woolens, madras, muslin, brocades, heavy silks and rayon, gabardine.
Heavy Fabrics such ascoatlng,denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed tickings, lightweight canvas.
Very Heavy Fabrics such as heavy TIcKrngz, canvas, overcodting, sailcloth, up hoistery,
24 to
40
40 to
50
50 to
70
B & C twist
C&D twist
E twist
90
90 to
110
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon, orion, dacron, plastics, etc.
Determined by Determined weight of fabric bythresdsiz
40 to 50 60 to 80
16
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The appearance of the finished seam is dependent on the correct relationship between needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart.
The same size threads should be used in the needle and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. How ever, the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the needle thread.
Or ar sy
13 n<
Dit,1tant 9acts
4&14t
/Ve&2ks
On PFAFF Automatic sewing machines, System 130R, flat-shank needles are used for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. The needle system is stamped on The needle plate. Genuine Pfaff needles, System
130, are available from every Pfoff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should not be used.
R 6798
C
/Vete
Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
Loosen needle set screw o half a turn
,c—’tEC and pull old needle out of needle clomp. Insert new needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of shank faces toward the back and long groove toward you. Tighten needle set screw 0.
The illustration (left) shows you how the needle clamp works. The needle set screw presses against the tapered needle positioning roller which presses against the flat side of the needle shank and holds the needle in place.
17
Place thread on spool pin I and lead thread end through holes in thread guides 2 and 3 and through both thread retainer openings 4 (see illustration opposite).
Pull thread between any two of the tension discs 5, (Fig. I) and lead it clockwise (Fig. II) until it snaps into the square notch in the tension cup (Arrow, Fig. Ill). The thread passes underneath the thread check spring which holds it down permanently.
Bring take-up lever 7 as high as it will go and pass thread from right to left through one of the holes at its end. Pull thread into slots at left of thread guides 8 and 9, and then into the slot at left of needle clamp 10.
Then thread needle, front to back. PFAFF’s Automatic needle threader will do this for you easily and quickly.
18
HI
11
R 7378
19
R 7068
S 7c169
I
S 7089
the Auiô,sate
,‘\ee1e ‘7hea?er
4 Before you begin, make sure that the needle is at its highest position
— when the lower hole of the ascending take-up lever d is in line with the bottom edge of the top cover. Now lower the sewing foot and
—
With your left hand push threader engaging lever p up until threader prong penetrates needle eye. Keep lever p in this position.
Hold thread loosely and lead from left around pin q behind hook of prong w on needle threader.
Slowly lower lever p part way until prong w reverses and pulls thread through the eye.
Jerk lever p up slightly so the thread ioop will fall off the prong. Release lever p.
Pull thread through needle eye.
2
R7088
3
R7087
4
Pus its
1ev
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Sir
V
When you hove had sufficient needle threading may shorten the procedure as follows: practice, you
Push lever p up. Place thread ,behind hook of prong its end is about 1/2 w so that inch to the!right of the prong. Slowly lower lever p. Prong w now pulls end of the thread
— instead of the loop
— through needle eye.
Since take-up lever d is not at its highest point when you thread the needle, pull about four inches of thread through the needle eye before you begin sewing.
V
R $390
9kJ
A
Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. Turn balance wheel until the needle moves down and up again and take-up toward you lever reaches its highest position. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin needle plate slot. Place both threads back under sewing thread up through foot before you put fabric into machine.
21 iJ
A R 7374
To check whether the tensions are correctly balanced, take a closely woven piece of fabric and sew a few straight and zigzag seams.
If the straight stitches are tightly drawn in on both sides of the fobric (see seam sketch Ill), the tensions ore correct.
The surest way to double-check this is by examining a zigzag seam. If the zigzag seam is equally wide on surface and underside of the fabric, that is, if the threads ore locked exactly at the zigs and zags of the seom, the tension adjustment is correct.
Ctrett 7encion 7Z
Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. If your tension is correct, you will have perfect seams as sketched (Ill) below.
Sketch I
—
Cause:
The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric.
Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight.
Sketch II
—
The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric.
Cause: Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.
V
22
________
ch ‘/ea 7n.on
kt
Bobbin tension rarely needs adjusting, except for embroidery should be a little tighter than by the small screw (x) on for ordinary sewing. Adtustment the bobbin case:
Turn ii left c—< for looser tension.
when it is mode
Turn it right )tm pulled down by its own for lighter tension.
Determine correct bobbin tension thumb and forefinger ond letting tension should be strong enough by holding the thread end weight. However, as you between to keep the bobbin case from
The the bobbin case hang freely.
being jerk your hand gradually slide down.
slightly, the bobbin case should
V
A
The final stitch appearance can be regulated by upper tension knob (y) as follows:
Turn left gE( for looser tension.
Turn right )*— for tighter tension.
The upper tension is so designed that all grades of tension — loose to tight — can be covered with one complete turn of the tension knob. The numbers on
The higher the number, the degrees of tension.
the tension dial indicate different greater the tension.
For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should be set between 3 and 5.
23
R 6946
__
I:
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t
R7O66
4 Set fin neutral (vertical position).
Set e so its pointer is on the indicator scale number corresponding to the desired stitch length. Turn lever f to the right as far as it will go.
To sew backwards, turn lever f toward the left as far as it will go.
Control e stops stitch length, 1 to 5, on indicator scale.
Stitch length may also be regulated by turning e all the way left arid fin the forward sewing position as far as it will go. Sew a few stitches and regulate the stitch length by turning f slowly toward the left until desired stitch length is obtained. To hold the stitch length turn e right )— until it stops.
in position,
The machine feed is dropped for darning, hoop embroidery and button sewing.
To lower feed below the needle plate, turn drop feed control v clockwise. Fabric will
When control v is turned to the right as far as it Wii go, ieedng of the fabric resumes automatically when you start sewing.
24 R 6029
R 7085
Chan the $e,uin 9ctt
Lift both needle and presser bars to their highest positions and turn screw c to the left. The screw usuaily can be loosened by hand, but if it is too tight, use a screw driver.
Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down. Slip on new foot and tighten screw c.
R7086
Remove the sewing foot. Attach darning foot from the rear.
Hold spring clip b so that it is behind the needle set screw, and tighten screw c. Attach darning hook d as illustrated so that when you lower presser bar lever e, the darning foot will stay in position. Remember to lower presser bar lever e so that the upper tension is activated.
t
25
R 6A32
A
The raceway in the sewing hook is the most im I portant oiling point. Put one drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew. A dry raceway will cause rapid wear. Don’t forget to put a drop of oil into each of the two oil holes behind the sewing foot.
This is essential to keep the hook shaft bearing I.
oiled.
Ca
an ,
Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regular and proper cleaning and oiling.
Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate machine with animal or vegetable oils. Remove all lint before oiling.
All moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication.
able to establish a pattern when oiling your machine. Begin
It is advis by removing the needle plate and oiling the mechanism in the free arm.
The principal oiling points ore marked by arrows.
R 7377
;
The oiling points in the machine arm can be reached easily by removing the top cover. Oil should be applied sparingly. Excessive quantities of oil may soil the work and cause machine or two drops of oil usually sluggishness. One will suffice.
Before you remove the top cover, tween 5 and 7. To pull cover up.
set lever E be— tilt it back and lift.
R 7381
27
Oiling points in the machine head
:,
I
9aai under the machine arm. Lever u swings out
The 25-waft sewlight is recessed the light to illuminate a larger working area.
To change the light bulb:
Swing lever u up (see arrow) and hold. Push bulb up into socket, turn left.
and pull out.
When inserting the new bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into bayonet socket slots.
Press bulb in and turn right.
Press the button on the front of the machine base to switch the sewlight on and off.
Ait.sttiii
,4ctc 3
Your PFAFF 332 Automatic is equipped with a 30-watt electric motor
(Type PE 332), which is housed in the machine base and drives the main shaft by means of a driving belt.
If the driving belt tension needs adjustment, take out the four screws in cover t and remove. Loosen screws s and adjust idler r until correct tension is obtained.
Idler r should be set just far enough left that it synchronizes with the belt clips and revolves evenly.
R 6546
The electric motor requires no special attention, except that the brushes should be replaced after 400 hours of service.
-
When you tighten screw s, make sure the washer is in the correct position.
29
;
:
-
I
-
—
U
Ii d
I
1-
---
-*1!
-
-
4•—
‘7ou61e
1. Machine Skips Stitches
Ca use:
Needle incorrectly inserted.
Wrong needle.
Needle bent.
Machine threaded improperly.
Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.
Remedy:
Push needle up as far as it wilt go and be sure that the long groove faces you, and flat part of needle away from you.
The correct needle system is stamped on needle plate.
Insert new needle.
Check and correct threading as instructed.
Use correct needle and thread.
2. Needle Thread Breaks
Cause:
The above mentioned may cause thread breakage.
Thread tension too tight.
Poor or knotty thread used.
Hook race is jammed with thread or needs oiling.
Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot.
Remedy:
See remedies listed under 1. above.
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Use good quality threads only.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth.
30
I
3. Needle Breaks
Cause:
Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook.
Needle too thin or thread too heavy.
Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes needle plate.
Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.
4. Faulty Stitch Formation
Cause:
Improper tension.
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard.
Bobbin unevenly wound.
Pieces of thread between tension discs.
Remedy:
Replace needle at once to prevent
Push bobbin case until you hear
Remedy:
Adjust tensions as instructed.
further damage.
Use correct needle and thread sizes.
Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly.
it snap into ploce.
Use only first-rote thread
— — the correct size for the needle and fabric.
Don’t run thread over finger when winding the bobbin, but lead it around tension stud on top cover and through thread guide h.
Release upper tension by setting ii on “0” and remove thread.
3. Machine Feeds Improperly
Cause:
Feed dog set too low and does enough above needle plate not rise up level.
Remedy:
Have your Pfaff dealer make the necessary adjustment.
31
1
I
Accumulations of lint packed betweenfeedteeth.
Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush.
6. Machine Works Heavily
Cause:
Motor belt is loose and slips, or has shrunk and causes excessive pressure an bearings.
Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by pieces of thread.
Mechanism clogged by inferior oil.
Bobbin winder working while sewing.
(When a bobbin is not being filled).
Snarled thread between balance wheel and bushing.
Remedy:
Loosen or tighten motor belt by adjusting idler.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Use only Piaff sewing machine oil
Stop bobbin winder.
Unwind and remove thread.
— never salad oil or glycerine.
Thread Jamming
If thread jams in the sewing hook mechanism and blocks it, proceed as follows:
The thread will come out more easily if you put a few drops of oil or cleaning fluid into the hook raceway.
Tighten the stop motion knob.
Move the balance wheel away from you.
Take the end of the thread and pull it out while rocking the balance wheel.
If thread is still jammed, call your Pfaff dealer for help.
Thread iamming can be avoided by following the instructions on pages 4 and 5.
32
‘
Zipper Insertion
Machine Setting:
E—0 C—3
B—C D—0
Stitch Length: 1 —2
Zipper Foot No. 51 300.
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper de pends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zipper. Turn fabric to right side. Run a straight seam close to left edge of zipper, stitch across lower end and up the other side in one continuous opera tion. Use right edge of foot as a guide.
For other types of zipper insertion, follow directions in your zipper pack age.
Edge Stitching
Machine Setting:
E—0 C—2
B—C D —0 to 4 (optional)
Stitch Length: 2 —4
Edge Stitcher No. 41 350.
Sew parallel rows of straight or zigzag stitches at various distances from the fabric edge by using ad justable seam guide No. 53077 and the edge stitcher (without quilting gauge). The seam guide is fastened to the machine bed with the long thumb screw.
R7104
Quilting
Machine Setting:
E—0
8—0
C—2
D —0 or 2 (optional)
Stitch Length: I
—
2
Edge Stitcher No. 41350.
Used with the quilting gauge it sews parallel rows of stitching over the entire surface of the fabric. Always guide the gauge finger along the preceding row of stitches.
Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads, and covers can be quilted.
33
R 7171
41242 flp
Flat Felled Seams
Machine Setting: E
—o
C-2
8—0 D —0 or 2 (oplional)
Stitch Length: 1—2
Flatfelled seams are used to durably ioin two pieces of fabric. They are made in two operations.
Flat felled seams usually ore straight stitched. Narrow zigzag stitches are used for felling on elasticized fabrics only.
4 First Seam
Lay pieces together wrong sides facing up with the bottom piece protruding
1/e inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot, as illustrated, so that the bottom fabric is folded over edge of top piece and stitched down. Make sure that protruding seam allowance is not folded twice.
iI iI
1
Second Seam
Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up, insert seam ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left. Make sure that second seam is placed close to the edge but not beyond it.
The felling foot has a needle slot, rather than a needle hole, to permit zigzag felling.
34 R7154 i
I
I
4626?
Rolled Hems
Machine Setting:
E—O C—2
B—O D—2to4 (optional)
Stitch Length: 2 —4
Rolled hems are used to finish sheer or deli cate fabrics. For a smooth, unpuckered hem, ease thread tension slightly and set 0 on
I to 3. To hem tricot fabrics increase the tension, and use the widest zigzag stitch so the hem has a rolled shell effect.
R 6083
11246
Hemming
Machine Setting:
E—O C—2
B—O D—O or 2 to 4 (optional)
Stitch Length: 2 —4
The hemmer foot is indispensable if you want to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight orzigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using. Clip off the corner of the fabric to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot. Feed fabric so that the raw edge is in line with the left edge of the hemmer foot opening.
If you feed less, the fabric will not be folded twice and the raw edge will show. Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. Press the fabric against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the end of the hem.
R 7375
35 R 5915
•1
LJJ
Overcasting Edges
Machine Setting: E —0
B—0
C—2
D
Stitch Length: 3 —4
—
2 to 4 (optional)
4
Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Sew edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its edge. You may overcast edges after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined.
R 7169
R 6070
44088
Butt Seaming
Machine Setting: E —0 C-2
B—0 0—3 or 4 (optional)
Stitch Length: 1
—
3
Two similor pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted to gether and joined with zigzag stitches. Worn bed sheets may be mended this way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remaining pieces of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges are centered under the needle. Join them with close, wide zigzag stitches. Hem row edges of sheets.
36
R 7161
4O88
Attaching Lace
Machine Setting: E —0 B —0 C —2 D —Ito 3
Stitch Length: I
—
2
You can attach lace edging in one simple ope ration. Overlap lace on raw edge. Sew to fabric with narrow zigzag stitches, taking one stitch into lace and fabric and the other into lace only.
V
Inserting Lace
Machine Setting: E —0
C-2
B—0
D
—
I to 3
Stitch Length: 1 —2
Pin or baste lace on fabric. Sew to gether with needle taking one stitch into fabric alone and one into the lace.
Carefully trim excess fabric underneath.
R 7177
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I W
V
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7-
‘406e
Inserting Patches
MachineSetting: E—O
B—O
Stitch Length: I
C-.2
D—4
Large holes con be patched quickly. The following method moy also be used for tricot fabrics. Cut patch so that its grain will match the rest of the fabric.
Place the potch over the damaged area. Sew it down with zigzag stitch of medium length.
R 7156
For additional strength stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim to seams.
close i
I j
38
Single-Needle Cording
Machine Setting: E
—o
B—O
Stitch Length:
C-2
D-2
—1
Trace pattern on fabric and place a under the groove in the sole of filler thread the cording foot.
Followthe pattern and hold the filler thread lightly.
R 7162
46121
Shirring
Machine Setting: E —0
C —2
B—O D—2to2
Stitch Length: 2 to 3
Ease Upper Tension
Follow above directions for shirring but place filler thread under rather than on top of the fabric.
Fabric and filler thread both are guided in the groove of the foot. Width of zigzag depends on the thickness of the filler thread used.
When you have finished the zigzag seam, slide material along the filler thread to distribute fullness. Finish the shirring with a line of straight stitching.
Leave the filler thread in the shirring or pull it out as you straight-stitch, depending on the stress to which shirring will be exposed.
R 71S9
39 R 7152
R 7163
6612!
61 Applique Work
Machine Setting: E
—o
B—O
Stitch Length Minimum
C—2
D—V/to3
Pin or baste applique on fabric and overcast edges. Appliques also can be attached with a satin stitch or any embroidery design.
R 7167 40
R 7155
__-J
4612!
Openwork Embroidery
Machine Setting:
E
—o
B—O
C-2
D—Oand 21/a
Stitch Length:
Minimum
There are hundreds embroider the 25-square twice using short straight medium-wide satin even so the corners of patterns excellent box illustrated. First, stitches. Then sew over stitch. Make sure that of your squares look for openwork embroidery.
neat.
sew over all traced your rows of satin
Let’s lines straight-stitch lines with a stitching are
R7179 attractive square. To make an cut out every other
.4
When you finish sewing, modern design, outline flowers or free farms with an embroidery design instead of satin stitching.
IL
41
87168
R 7158
4O88
ScaIIopng
Machine Setting:
Stitch Length:
E—1-7(optional) 8—3
A—5 D—2
Minimum
Scalloping can be done in a liffy on your
PFAFF 332 Automatic. Scalloped edges can be used effectively as trimming on numerous articles.
The illustrations left show how scalloping adds sparkle to a child’s collar. Here’s how to do it. First, trace collar pattern on a doubled piece of fabric. Set machine (shown above), place fabric under sewing foot and guide needle along traced line. The scallops ore produced automati cally. You may vary the length of the scallops by changing the setting of lever F (see sketch). When you have finished, trim excess fabric along scalloped edge.
ScII’WWk
Machine Setting: E —0 C
—
2
Stitch Length:
B—0
Minimum
D—2to4
Draw designs on fabric. Clamp work into embroidery hoop. As you ore following the scrollwork outline with wide satin stitches, move hoop right, then left, alternating the rhythm and the direction of your movements.
An exciting note may be added by using variegated thread.
‘V
I I
•1I
42 R7150
-i-’.
-
Imitation Hemstitching
Machine Setting: E —0 C —2 B —0
Stitch Length: 1 —1/s
Increase Tensions
D
—
21
Beautiful hemstitching effects on handkerchiefs, blouses, dresses, and so forth, can be made with Pfaff’s System 130 (wing) needle available at Pfaff stores at extra cost. Loosely woven fabrics, such as batiste, organdy, georgette, etc., are well suited to hemstitching while woolly fabrics are not recommended because needle penetrations close up. Since the hemstitching needle has a slightly thicker shank, the needle set screw must be turned out far enough for insertion. The hemstitching needle cannot be threaded with the Automatic needle threader.
Hemstitching is very simple (see sketch).
I Sew first row en the left of the area to be hemstitched.
2 Step machine when needle is in tabric on the right.
3 Liti sewing toot, turn fabric in the direction of orrow, ond lower toot again.
first row so
4 Sew second row, on shown in sketch, guiding material parallel to needle holes of previous zigzag stitches on it descends on the right.
that needle penetrates in tabric on the lett and
S If you ore making more than two lines of hemstitching, alternately leave needle right of turning pinls, pivot fabric on needle, end proceed as d,rected above.
Q
R 7138
He mstitc hi n g
Hemstitching is succesful on linen and twilled fabrics. For this type of work use on ordinary needle.
Draw several threads out of the fabric.
Set machine for a medium-wide zigzag stitch and sew along both edges of the strip, making sure that “zigs” and “zags” in both rows ore exactly opposite each other, Set stitch length according to thread bar width you desire. Draw threads from the edge until your fringe is the length you want. Zigzag along this line
— and you will have picot edging.
43
R 7140
R 7139
I
(L j’
46669
Blindstitching
Machine Setting: —0 B —0 C —3 D —1 to 2
Stitch Length: Maximum
Hemming dresses and skirts by hand is a laborious task, You can do it easily on your PFAFF on medium and heavy fabrics. Use zigzag foot
No. 44088 with blindstitch guide No. 46669, which you can buy at your
Pfaff store, Attach the guide so that its vertical flange goes through the sewing foot slot, Use a No.70 needle, a loose upper tension and thin thread.
Next follow this procedure:
Turn fabric wrong side up. On scivage edge or if bias seam binding is used on edge of hem, fold material once (Fig. I). On unselvoged fabric, fold twice (Fig. 2). It is advisable to pin or baste hem. Guide work evenly, holding top hem edge against the vertical flange of the blindstitch guide. Set 0 so that needle takes left stitch exactly in the folded edge and the right stitch up to or over the hem edge. When hem is finished, stitches will not be visible on top side.
44088
Automatic Blindstitching
Used for draperies or curtains
Machine Setting: E —1
A —6
B—i
C —1 Stitch Length 1 _V/s
Blindstitching is used for medium and heavy fabrics and would be visible on the right side of sheer and filmy fabrics. Therefore these fabrics should be blindstitched with the Automatic so a number of narrow and one wide zigzag stitch are sewn at regular intervals. Use thread that matches fabric and fold the hem as illustrated. Feed fold against left inside edge of foot so that narrow zigzag stitches are made on hem edge and wide stitches pierce fold.
Bulky work is placed in machine with bulk of material to the left of the needle. Set lever C on “3”.
44 R 7371
R 6064
Sewing Buttonholes
Machine Setting: E —0 B —0 C 1
Stitch Length: Minimum
The setting of control 0 is changed several notches of the buttonhole slide, one times while you ore making button holes. So you can easily return the control clockwise, as illustrated. Put lever C in to its previous setting, turn lever F notch 1, so D will be caught in two position at “Viz” for sewing sides, and the other at “3” for bartacking.
This setting corresponds to the size of ordinary lingerie buttonholes. When lever F is moved up further, the stops and both the parallels and for the stitch width setting change accordingly, bars of the buttonhole grow wider.
V
Use buttonhole foot No. 51016 and set slide on buttonhole gauge to buttonhole length de sired. If you prefer more prom inent buttonholes, pull a filler
R 6088 cord through the hole in left toe of foot. To get the correct stitch length, sew on a piece of scrap material.
In making buttonholes in soft or loosely woven fabrics, it is advantageous to place a piece of tissu,e paper insert a piece of firmly woven cotton material in tricot and knit fabrics, under the material. To strengthen buttonholes between the fabric layers.
45
-a c
0
CD ® ®
J
fi
0
ff
® ® ®
Change D to 11/2”.
Trim both ends of filler cord at end of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop about 4—6 stitches from end of first row, leaving needle up.
Buttonholes
CD
Set D at “1’/2”, C at “1”, stitch length lever fan satin stitch.
Attach foot No. 51016 and adjust slide mdi cator on buttonhole gauge to length of button hole desired. lnsertfillercord through foot and sew first row, leaving the needle on the right side of the filler cord.
Lift foot turn fabric clockwise using needle as a pivot. Lower foot, take one stitch to the left, pull filler cord taut and lay it parallel to completed line of stitching.
Switch D to “3”.
Make 4—6 bartack stitches. Raise needle.
® three fastening stitches.
Trim the sewing threads Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper Be careful not to inure the bartacks
®
Buftonho can also be made without a filler cord.
46
R 7160
45720
Button Sewing
Machine Setting:
E —o
B—0 c—I
D—Oand3to4
Drop Machine Feed
Don’t be afraid to sew on sure the thread take-up the button sewing foot.
buttons, hooks, eyes or rings with your Pfaff. Make
Align button so needle
Place the button under lever is at its highest paint.
will enter right hole when
D is at “0”.
Then turn 0 to the left, usually to “4”, until needle hale. Sew as many zigzag securely. When sewing on repeat the above process, is centered over the left four-hole buttons, lift foot, to fasten button stitches as you think necessary reposition button and stitching through the second pair of holes.
through one of the holes. Hooks, eyes, snaps, two or three lying stitches
Now set D on “0” and make etc. are attached in the same manner.
47
R 6067
Darning
You will really appreciate the free arm of your PFAFF 332 when you darn sleeves and socks.
Machine Setting: E —0 B —0 C —2 D —0
Remove presser foot and drop machine feed. Use feed cover plate No. 60407 to increase tautness of fabric and permit free movement.
To fasten the feed cover plate to the machine, slip its spring into the slot in the front edge of the needle plate, as illustrated.
R 6121
Attach darning foot as instructed on page 25, and suspend presser bar from the rear of the face cover with darning hook No. 46128. Even though the presser bar is suspended, the presser bar lever must be lowered to activate the tension, or the upper tension will be released
— — and the thread will am in the machine.
Machine Setting: E
—
0 B —0 C —2 D -.3
Drop feed.
Use special darning foot No. 51 050 for darning woolen socks, sweater sleeves and other woolen articles. Lace filler thread through the hole in the foot.
Place thread back and forth across damaged spot (top picture) and anchor it in unworn area. Sew across filler thread with zigzag stitches (bottom picture).
48
1.
Tubular Articles
Machine Setting:
E—0 8—0 C-.2
0—0 Dropfeed.
You need no darning hoop to mend sleeves, trouser legs or socks on your
PFAFE 332. Simply slip them over the free arm. Stitch back and forth across the hole, first lengthwise, then cross wise.
Use a thin No. 70 needle.
R 5913
Thin Spots
Remember that “a stitch in time saves nine” and reinforce spots that have worn thin with short stitches made lengthwise and across worn section.
Clamp fabric into darning hoop and move it freely under the needle.
Long rips may be darned with the normal sewing foot and without hoop.
Raise machine feed and use forward and reverse stitch lever.
Small Holes
Darn small and medium-size holes by trimming ragged edges with the fabric grain. First stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at high speed. Then turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over preceding work. This anchors threads in the unworn atea around the hole.
49
Monogram Embroidery
Machine Setting: E —0
B —0
C -2
D
— according to desired width
Drop Machine Feed
4 Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoop, the presser bar suspended and the presser bar lever lowered. Lower needle into fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends, and sew over outline, moving hoop slowly and evenly.
7165
46121
Sewing Monograms
Machine Setting: E —0 C-2
B—0 D
—
2’/ to 3
Stitch Length: Minimum
The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Raise feed and set machine for satin stitch. Attach cord stitcher and sew outlines of monogram.
Watch that seams do not overlap at oints of letters.
.
Ask your Piaff dealer to show you the Ornamentograph, the in geniously designed monogram and ornamental stitch attachment.
You will marvel at its versatility and delight in the countless creative possibilities which it adds to your Automatic.
50
14
Cording
Stitch Length: I
—
2
To cord, use Cording Kit No. 50117 available at extra cost.
R 7373
This set consists of:
4double-needle holdersfor needle distances of
1/64
‘/io, /o4,
3/ and inch, 3 cording feet, 3 cording plates (2 with cord ducts and 1 with center claw), and I package of
System 130 B needles. Additional parts for heavier cording are available at extra cost.
The interchangeable doubleneedle holder is eosy to attach.
Changing the Needle Holder
Bring take-up leverto highest point, loosen small set screw and change needle holders. Tighten set screw securely. The large needle holder screw must always point toward the right.
Use System 130 B round-shank needles in l/ holders, and System 130 R flat-shank needles holders.
in
3/35
To attach cording plate refer to instructions on page 48 for mounting feed cover plate.
51
R 7370
Increase the bobbin tension slightly on cording size you wont. To sew filled with cord ducts.
for cording. Pfaff recommends you fill
Filler cord thickness depends cording use the two cording plates
Only very narrow tucks ore made without filler cord.
MachineSetting:
E—0
B—0
C—2 D—0
Additional Information on Cording
Ordinary cording in medium-heavy
No. 41319 and cording plate No. 60417.
fabric is made with cording
For thicker cording use foot No. 41 318 with cording plate No. 60419.
foot
Threading Diagram for Two Needles
Your upper tension has a third disc threaded through the tension.
Cording foot No. 41641 and plate No.
60417 (with center claw, but without in lightweight material.
Pin tucks also are made with cording plate.
Cording plate No. 60415 with high cording in thick felt.
center claw is used chiefly for
Cording height and width are determined needles, the cord diameter and the height by the distance between the two of the ridge on the cording plate.
Thread tensions also influence cording tucks, attach an adjustable guide to the size. For uniform spacing of parallel cording foot. When space between tucks is very narrow, place the preceding rows of cording.
seam into one of the grooves of the insures uniform and parallel
52
R6945
4088
Two-Needle Decorative Sewing
The eight block symmetric patterns on the narrow-stitch side of the dial wheel con be sewn with two needles, if the needle gouge does not exceed /o* inch.
To make them, no machine parts have to be changed. If any of the other designs ore sewn with two needles, the needle plate, machine feed and sewing foot must be changed. Your Pfoff dealer will do this for you. These ports have wider slots to allow for movement of both needles. To sew these two-needle
R 5966
R7178
Two-needle designs are particularly attractive when sewn with different color threads.
The sewing abilities of your PFAFF Automatic are practically unlimited.
Interesting effects can be obtained by combining various designs, embroider ing colored ribbons, glamorizing a garment with lace or rick-rack attached with a line of Automatic stitches and
—— well, you probably can think of many articles which would take on new life with a touch of embroidçry. Your
PFAFF Automatic will help you solve decorative problems and will stimulate your creative fancy.
53
r
‘iii’
R 7137
.4
Three-Needle Decorative
Sewing
If you want to do ‘/4-inch, threeneedle decorative sewing, the needle plate, machine feed and sewing foot must be changed.
In addition, it is advisableto use spool holder No. 53137, which slips over the regular spool pins
(see illustration) and is avail able at your Pfaff store.
The third thread is led to the needle with the second thread.
You can sew the same pattern with three needles that you can make with two needles using the regulation machine parts.
Automatic Embroidery
Interesting design effects are easy to make by combining Automatic patterns.
Now you can make flower petals and other intricate designs.
The more familiar you are with your machine, the more inspired you will be toward creative sewing.
R 7175
R7176
54
R 6S3
The Transverse Spool Holder
To ensure that the thread will unwind evenly from a cross-wound the transverse spool holder which is port of the standard machine.
spool. use equipment of your
To attach the spool holder, slip position spring the bent portion as instructed.
I held in placefirmly. Pass the thread through eyelet over the vertical spool pin, of the spring pointing toward you. Push the spool of threod on spool pin 2. Press the position pin together, and push pin slot. With the spring pressed together, adjust its position
2 into the spring pin, as required. When you release the spring, the transverse pin will be
3, and thread the machine
55
Contents
Foreword
Essential Parts of Machine
.
Fundamentals of Machine Operation
Important Points to Remember
.
The Snap-Out Workplate
Electrical Information
Straight Stitch Sewing
Zigzag Sewing
Setting Machine for Automatic Embroidery
Winding the Bobbin
Removing the Bobbin Case
Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case
Inserting the Bobbin Case
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes
Important Facts about Needles
.
Changing the Needle
Upper Threading
Operating the Automatic Needle Threader
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread
Correct Tension Regulation
Regulating the Thread Tension
Stitch Length Regulation
.
Dropping the Machine Feed
Changing the Sewing Foot
The Darning Foot
Care and Maintenance
Sewlight Facts
Adjusting the Motor Belt Tension
Trouble Shooting
Page
.1
.2
.4
.5
.6
.7
.8
.9
10
24
24
25
25
26
28
29
30
20
21
22
23
16
17
17
18
12
14
14
15
Zipper Insertion
Edge Stitching
Quilting
Flat Felled Seams
Rolled Hems
Hemming
Overcasting Edges
Butt Seaming
Attaching Lace
Inserting Lace
Inserting Patches
Single-Needle Cording
Shirring
Applique Work
Openwork Embroidery
Scalloping
Scrollwork
Imitation Hemstitching
Blindstitching
Automatic Blindstitching
Sewing Buttonholes
.
Button Sewing
Darning
Monogram Embroidery
Sewing Monograms
.
Cording
.
.
.
Two-Needle Decorative Sewing.
Three-Needle Decorative Sewing
Automatic Embroidery
.
The Transverse Spool Holder
56
Page
33
33
35
35
39
40
41
42
42
37
37
38
39
45
47
48
50
50
51
53
54
54
55
I
I
A. C. WEBER & CO., JNC.
Di3tributor • Chicago
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