FY2 - Fuzz Dog`s Pedal Parts

FY2 - Fuzz Dog`s Pedal Parts
FY2 Companion Fuzz
A lot of nasty-ass fuzz
with a bonus post-boost
Contents of this document are ©2015 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
PCB Layout ©2015 Pedal Parts Ltd.
Schematic + BOM
BOM
R1
R2
R3
R4
R5
R6
R7
R8
R9
R10
R11
R12
R13
R14
2M2
22K
1M2
47K
10K
15K
100K
1M
470K
47K
10K
390R
100K
CLR (2K2)
Components shown in blue on the schematic are the LPB
post-boost circuit. To make it without the boost, leave out
the blue components and place a jumper wire across the
two pads marked in blue above.
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
C6
C7
C8
C9
C10
C11
47n
1n
47n
2n2
3n3
1n
100n
47n
10u
10u
100u
Q1,2
Q3
Low gain
silicon NPN
(2N3904,
2N2222 etc)
2N3904
VOL
50KB
FUZZ 50KB
See notes overleaf
about pads J1 and J2.
SCOOP MOD
Some people don’t like the scooped mids on the FY2. Crazy people. If you want to add a bit of
versatility to the circuit you can add a scoop control. There are a couple of ways to do this.
Either replace R5 with a pot (10-20KB), connecting the pads to pins 2 and 3.
Or, a much more convenient and easily removeable way is to use the extra pads J1 and J2 on the
board. These are connected to C7 and GND, so you’re adding resistance between them. Take a wire
from each and attach to pins 2 and 3 on a 5KB pot (or your choice - experiment!). Which way round
depends on if you want it to be a More-Scooped or Less-Scooped control when turned clockwise.
If you aren’t adding a scoop control you must place a jumper wire across
pads J1 and J2.
The power and signal pads on the PCB conform to the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can
be paired with the appropriate daughterboard for quick and easy offboard wiring.
Be very careful when soldering the LED and transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You should
use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you solder
them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under 2 seconds).
The long leg (anode) of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Solder carefully (you always should anyway). The pads are small and tightly spaced. This was
necessary to squeeze the circuit into this board-mounted pot, vertically seated format.
Test the board!
BATTERY
IN
IN
9V GND
OUT
OUT
Yo
our nice, new circuit boa
ard
INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on
the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long
run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the
switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND,
IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the
GNDs together (twist them up and add a small amount of solder to tack it).
Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.
At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it
working, THEN worry about the switch etc.
Wire it up - with battery
(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BOARD
GND
IN
BOARD
GND
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
+
BOARD
OUT
L
LE
ED
D
+
OUT
BOARD
LED+
BATTERY
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be
Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),
and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point. They can be
daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection points (such as jack socket
lugs) for multiple connections. As long as they all connect together in some way.
Wire it up - DC only version
(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BOARD
GND
IN
BOARD
GND
BOARD
9V
BOARD
OUT
L
E
L
ED
D
+
OUT
BOARD
LED+
BOARD
GND
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be
Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),
and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point. They can be
daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection points (such as jack socket
lugs) for multiple connections. As long as they all connect together in some way.
Drilling template
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots
Jacks
Footswitch
DC Socket
Hammond 1590B
60 x 111 x 31mm
7mm
10mm
12mm
12mm
It’s a good idea to drill
the holes for the pots
8mm to give yourself
some wiggle room unless
you’re a drill ninja
Centre pot hole is for the
optional scoop control.
32mm
27mm
This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.
PedalParts.co.uk
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