Manual 1 - Best R/C (

•89” IMAA-legal aerobatic trainer
•Selig 8036 semi-symmetrical airfoil for maneuverability & low-speed stability
•Performance excels with a wide range of engines
Instruction Manual
Dynaflite guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
In no case shall Dynaflite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Dynaflite
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Dynaflite has no control
over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer
is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
DECGP04 Printed in USA
© 2011 Hobbico®, Inc V:2.0
INTRODUCTION .................................................2
Required accessories ...................................3
Suggested supplies.......................................4
Building notes ...............................................4
Types of wood ..............................................4
Metric conversions ........................................5
DIE PATTERNS ...................................................5
BUILD THE TAIL SECTION ................................6
Build the fin and rudder ................................6
Build the stabilizer .........................................7
Build the elevators ........................................7
BUILD THE WING ...............................................8
Sheet the top of the wing ............................11
Finish the wing ............................................13
Build the ailerons ........................................14
BUILD THE FUSELAGE ...................................15
Assemble the firewall ..................................15
Build the bulkheads and fuselage sides ............18
Assemble the fuselage ...............................19
Mount the wing ...........................................21
Sheet the top of the fuselage......................23
Finish the bottom of the fuselage ...............24
Mount the tail ..............................................26
Make and mount the wing struts.................28
Finish the windshield and cowl ...................29
FINAL ASSEMBLY ...........................................30
Install the radio system ...............................30
Set the control throws .................................30
FINISHING ........................................................31
Finishing the struts ......................................31
Balance your model ....................................31
PREFLIGHT ......................................................31
Balance your propellers ..............................31
Charge your batteries .................................32
AT THE FLYING SITE .......................................32
Ground check your model...........................32
Range check your radio ..............................32
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................................32
Takeoff ........................................................33
Flying ..........................................................33
Landing .......................................................34
Congratulations on your choice of this kit for your
next project. The Super Decathlon is a Fun Scale®
model of a truly classic aerobatic aircraft. It has the
presence that only a big model can deliver. The
full-scale Super Decathlon is a basic aerobatic
aircraft capable of spins, loops, rolls, immelmanns,
split S’s, hammerheads and basic inverted flight.
Super Decathlons have been the choice for basic
aerobatics in the US for the past twenty-five years.
One of the things that made this plane so popular
was the fact that it was one of the easiest landing
taildraggers ever made. The Dynaflite Super
Decathlon has the great landing habits of the fullscale plane, with more aerobatic potential.
The two-piece wing means transporting this 89"
span model can be done in any vehicle which can
hold the manageable 67" fuselage. The big wing
and strong structure of the Dynaflite Super
Decathlon allows for an engine range from the
1.08 2-stroke all the way up to the 2.1 gas engines.
We do recommend flying wires on the tail if you are
using an engine at the larger end of the
recommended range.
At Dynaflite, we take pride in offering kits that are
simple and straightforward to build and provide
value for your modeling dollar. Because of the size
and cost of this model, we assume you have built
several models and have a general working
knowledge of modeling and its terms. If you HAVE
NOT built and flown several kits, we strongly
recommend you back up and get some experience
before beginning this kit.
Your Super Decathlon is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance, if you do not assemble
and operate the Super Decathlon correctly, you
could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property. To make your R/C modeling
experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that
you get assistance with assembly and your first
flights from an experienced, knowledgeable
modeler. Your local hobby shop has information
about flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors if needed.
at: (217) 398-8970 or you may email us at and we'll be
glad to help. If you are calling for replacement
parts, please look up the part numbers and have
them ready when calling.
If you are not already a member of the AMA,
please join! The AMA is the governing body of
model aviation and membership provides liability
insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and
interests and is required to fly at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
These are the items not included with your kit; you
will need to purchase them separately. Items in
parentheses (GPMQ4131) are suggested part
numbers recognized by distributors and hobby
shops and are listed for your ordering convenience.
GPM is the Great Planes® brand, TOP is the Top
Flite® brand and HCA is the Hobbico® brand.
Two of the most important things you can do to
preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to
avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying
near or over groups of people.
4+ Channel radio w/6 servos (5 high torque)
2 18" Servo extension wires (ailerons)
2 “Y” Connectors (ailerons, elevators)
Engine: 1.20 - 1.60 4-stroke,
1.08 - 1.8 2-stroke, or 1.5 - 2.1 gas
❏ Engine mount and mounting hardware
❏ 16 - 24 oz. Fuel tank
❏ Standard fuel tubing, glow (GPMQ4131)
❏ Tygon fuel tubing, gas (DUBQ0427)
❏ Gas stopper (DUBQ0675)
❏ 2 3-1/4" Main wheels (GPMQ4226)
❏ 1 1-1/2" Tail wheel (GPMQ4243)
❏ 4 5/32" Wheel collars (GPMQ4306)
❏ 2 1/8" Wheel collars (GPMQ4304)
❏ 2 3/16" Axles (GPMQ4278)
❏ 20 Giant Scale hinges
❏ 4 8-32 x 1" Socket head bolts (GPMQ3048)
❏ 4 8-32 Blind Nuts (GPMQ3328)
❏ Coverite™ Fabric or other covering
(approximately 5 rolls)
❏ Paint for fuelproofing, engine cowl and
❏ 1/4" Latex Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000)
❏ 3" Spinner (GPMQ4530)
❏ 1 or 2 1/4 Scale pilot(s) (optional)
❏ Decathlon cockpit kit (optional) (DYFQ8115)
1. You must assemble the plane according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable
model. In a few cases the instructions may differ
slightly from the photos or plan. In those instances,
follow the written instructions.
2. You must take the time to build straight, true
and strong.
3. You must install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground
and in the air.
4. You must test the operation of the model before
the first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment operates correctly. You must also make
certain that the model has remained structurally
Please inventory and inspect all parts carefully
before starting to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective or if you have any questions
about building or flying this model, please call us
reference as you cut them. By doing this now, you
won't have to splice pieces together later.
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy
• Do not throw away any leftover material until after
you have completed your model. Some small
pieces of leftover balsa or plywood are used
during construction.
4 oz. Thin CA Adhesive (GPMR5904)
4 oz. Medium CA+ Adhesive (GPMR5910)
2 oz. Thick CA- Adhesive (GPMR6015)
Pro CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
Pro CA Accelerator w/pump (HCAR3750)
6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
8 oz. Aliphatic Resin Wood Glue
4 oz. Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
Microballoon Filler (TOPR1090)
J&Z Products RC/56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007)
Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
• When you see the term “cut and fit” in the
instructions, it means you should first position the
part on the assembly without using any glue.
Slightly modify or shape the part as necessary for
the best fit. Do not glue unless instructed to do so.
• Throughout the assembly of this model, thin CA
should be used unless the step calls for another
type of adhesive. If your parts do not fit well,
substitute medium or thick CA.
• Whenever just “epoxy” is called for, you may use
either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute epoxy
because you will need either the working time or
the additional strength.
• CA accelerator causes CA glues to react
immediately, but residual accelerator can
prematurely cure CA on nearby joints even
hours later.
• During construction you will be using a number of
balsa sticks to frame various assemblies. Ample
material is included but you should study the
plans, then make an effort to cut the longest
pieces you will need first. Label the pieces for later
❏ 5. Remove the fin from the building board.
❏ 1. Cover the FIN/RUDDER PLAN with Great
Planes Plan Protector or wax paper.
❏ 6. If you will be adding flying wires, drill a 5/16"
hole in the bottom of the upper rear gusset. Cut
3/8" off one of the 5/16" x 6-5/8" dowels. Using thin
CA, glue the 3/8" piece in the hole.
❏ 7. Using a 3/8" x
15/16" x 24" balsa
stick, the 3/8" x 1/2" x
28-1/2" balsa stick
(leftover from the
upper rear gusset)
and a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30"
balsa stick, build the
rudder. Do not forget
the 3/8" x 1/2" gusset
in the lower corner.
❏ 2. From two 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa sticks, cut,
fit and glue the fin frame as shown in the photo.
Remember to save all leftover pieces.
❏ 3. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit and
glue the upper rear gusset. From leftover 3/8" x
15/16" balsa, cut, fit and glue the other 3 gussets.
❏ 8. Remove the rudder from the plan. Mark the
centerline the length of the fin trailing edge and the
rudder leading edge. Cut the hinge slots along the
centerlines where shown on the plan.
❏ 4. From the 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the 3 fin ribs in place.
❏ 9. Using the fuse plan top view as a reference,
sand the leading edge of the rudder to the “V”
shape shown. Make sure the “V” is large enough to
allow for the specified left and right movement of
the rudder (see “SET THE CONTROL THROWS”,
page 30).
❏ 10. Round the leading edge of the fin and the top
and trailing edge of the rudder. Note: Check the
plans to see the location of the dorsal fin and do
not sand the leading edge of the fin in that area.
❏ 6. Using two 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa sticks, cut,
fit and glue the leading edge and trailing edge.
❏ 1. Place the STABILIZER PLAN on your building
board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.
❏ 7. From the leftover 3/8" x 1/2" balsa stick (used to
build the fin and rudder), cut, fit and glue the stab
❏ 2. From the 3/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet, cut a 6"
length, making the stab center. Using more of the
same sheet, make the leading edge joiner.
❏ 8. Using a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the other four stab ribs in place. After the
glue has dried, remove the stab from your work
❏ 9. If you will be installing flying wires, drill two
5/16" holes in the balsa trailing edge in the
locations shown on the plan. Cut two 3/8" long
pieces off the 5/16" dowel. With thin CA, glue the
3/8" pieces in the holes.
❏ 3. Cut 6" from a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick. Pin
it in front of the stab center on the plans.
❏ 4. Glue the stab center and stab leading edge
joiner to the 1/2" piece pinned to your plans.
❏ 1. Cover the elevator plans with Plan Protector.
❏ 5. From the 3/8" x 3/8" x 22" basswood stick, cut,
fit and glue the stab spar to the stab center.
❏ ❏ 2. From a 3/8" x 15/16" x 24" balsa stick, cut,
fit and pin one elevator leading edge to the plans.
❏ ❏ 3. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the 1/2" elevator ribs and corner gusset to
the leading edge. Note: It is important that the trailing
edge of the ribs align accurately with the plans.
❏ ❏ 8. One at a time, install the remaining four
1/16" x 3/8" x 24" balsa sticks as you did the first,
using medium CA to glue each successive stick to
the one applied before it and pressing it in position
until the CA dries. Note: Leave some balsa overhang
on both ends to be trimmed off later.
❏ ❏ 4. From a 1/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick, cut, fit
and glue the 1/8" elevator ribs to the leading edge.
❏ ❏ 9. Remove the elevator from the plan.
❏ ❏ 5. From leftover 3/8" x 3" balsa (from the stab
center), cut, fit and glue the control horn mount to
the back of the leading edge and also to the
inboard elevator rib.
❏ ❏ 10. Trim the laminated sticks off flush with the
elevator ribs.
❏ 11. Repeat steps 2-10, to build the second
❏ 12. Mark the centerline of the trailing edge of the
stab and of the leading edges of the elevators. Cut
the hinge slots along the centerlines as shown on
the plan.
❏ 13. Using the fuse plan side view as a reference,
sand the leading edge of the elevator to the “V”
shape shown. Make sure the “V” is large enough to
allow for the specified up and down movement of
the elevators (see “SET THE CONTROL THROWS”,
page 30).
❏ ❏ 6. Push the six T-pins in place as indicated on
the plans, ensuring that they are vertical and firmly
in place.
❏ 14. Sand the stab LE and the outside edges of
the elevators to a rounded shape.
❏ ❏ 7. Wet one of the 1/16" faces of a 1/16" x 3/8"
x 24" balsa stick. Glue the stick to the aft end of the
ribs with the wet side facing out. Pull the stick
around the tip, gluing it to the ends of the leading
edge and tip ribs as you go. Note: Pull the stick just
enough to touch the pins, but do not move them.
W3s (including the two with the doublers) to the
paper wing tube. Use your rotary tool to enlarge
the holes in the ribs as necessary. When satisfied
with the fit, remove the ribs from the tubes and set
the tubes aside.
Note: The airfoil used on this plane is semisymmetrical. We positioned the embossed labels
on the die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs so that they are
right-side up when the wing is right-side up. This is
the easiest way to reference the top and bottom of
the ribs.
❏ 5. Cut the two 1/8" x 2-1/8" x 14-5/8" birch ply
sheets in half, making four 1/8" x 2-1/8" x 7-5/16"
shear webs.
❏ 6. Sand a taper on the last two inches of the four
1/8" x 3/8" x 18" basswood spar doublers.
❏ 1. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply W1 doublers to
the two W1B ribs. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply W3
doublers to two of the W3 ribs as shown. Note:
These parts mirror each other.
❏ 7. Glue the four spar doublers to the four 1/4" x
3/8" x 42" basswood spars with the non-tapered
end of the doublers aligned with one end of each
spar. These assemblies are now known as spars.
❏ 2. Trim W1B to match the opening in the doubler
as shown in the photo.
❏ 3. Select a W2B rib and trim it to match W1B.
❏ 8. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply forward and rear strut
braces to two of the W5 ribs as shown.
❏ ❏ 9. Cover your right wing panel with Plan
Protector. Cross-pin the bottom spar in place on
the plan, aligning the inboard end with the centerline
of the wing, with the spar doubler facing up.
❏ ❏ 10. Pin the 1/4" x 3/8" x 42" balsa wing jig to
the plans, with the 1/4" edge against the plans.
Notice how the jig is skewed to provide the required
wing twist (washout).
❏ 4. Insert the aluminum wing tube into the paper
wing tube. Fit the two W1Bs, two W2Bs and four
❏ ❏ 14. Glue the 1/8" x 3/8" x 42" basswood
bottom aft spar in place, being careful to keep the
ribs straight over the plans.
❏ ❏ 11. Select two of the four W3 ribs you fitted to
the wing tube. Position them in the two W3
locations where the wing tube installs. Glue those
two W3 ribs, one W3 (which was not fitted to the
tube), three W4 and two W6 ribs vertically to the
bottom spar. Glue one W5 with a strut brace and
one W5 without a strut brace in the locations shown.
❏ ❏ 15. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W1A in place at
the root of the wing with the spars firmly set in the
❏ ❏ 12. Using a square to make sure the top spar
aligns with the bottom spar, fit and glue the top
spar in place.
❏ ❏ 16. Remove the T-pins at the root of the spar.
Using 6-minute epoxy, fit and glue the ply shear
webs (you cut earlier) in place.
❏ ❏ 17. Glue W1B and W2B in place over the
❏ ❏ 18. Glue the top 1/8" x 3/8" x 42" basswood aft
spar in place.
❏ ❏ 13. Using the 3/32" x 4" x 24" balsa, cut, fit and
glue the shear webs in place. Note: You will install
the remaining balsa shear webs in the bays that
have pins in them after the wing is turned over.
❏ ❏ 24. Using a razor plane and/or sanding bar,
shape the top of the sub leading edge to the
contour of the ribs. Trim the sub leading edge flush
with the wing tip rib and the root rib.
❏ ❏ 19. Cut the paper wing tube in half. Insert the
aluminum tube inside the paper tube. Using medium
CA, glue the paper tube to the four ribs and the ply
shear web, aligning the end with the root rib.
Remove the aluminum tube from the paper tube.
❏ ❏ 25. From a 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa stick, fit and
glue the trailing edge in place in the aileron bay.
Sand the top to the shape of the ribs.
❏ ❏ 20. Fit and glue the die-cut 1/8" ply tube plug
in the outboard end of the paper tube.
❏ ❏ 21. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply W2A rib in place.
❏ ❏ 26. From a 3/8" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick, cut
and glue the four hinge doublers in place.
❏ ❏ 22. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply dowel plate (DP)
in place.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 1. Cut a 1" x 42" strip from a 3/32" x 3" x
42" balsa sheet.
❏ ❏ 23. Glue the 1/8" x 1" x 42" balsa sub leading
edge to the ribs, centering it vertically on the front
of the ribs.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 2. Edge glue the 1" strip to a 3/32" x 3" x
24" balsa sheet as shown in the photo.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 3. Using a square to properly align the
sheeting with the trailing edge of the wing as
shown on the plans, position the sheeting and glue
it in place. DO NOT align with the trailing edge of
the ribs. (See the cross section of the plans.)
❏ ❏ 6. If this is your second or fourth time through
this section, complete the following steps:
❏ ❏ 6a) Cut the 1/4" x 3/8" x 8" basswood stick in
half, making two 4" long aileron servo rails.
Glue one servo rail in the forward square
holes in the W5 ribs.
❏ ❏ 6b) Slip the rear 4" servo rail in place. Fit your
servo on the rails, sliding the aft rail forward
until the spacing between the rails is correct
for the servo. Glue the aft rail in place.
❏ ❏ 6c) Using leftover center sheeting, sheet over
the servo bay. Cut an opening for the servo.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 4. Edge glue the 3/32" x 3" x 42" balsa
sheet to the 3/32" x 2" x 42" balsa sheet (leftover
from the trailing edge sheet), making the leading
edge sheeting. Align the trailing edge with the
center of the spar and glue the sheeting in place.
Note: Be sure to hold the ribs down on the jig and
hold the spar against your flat work surface to
create the correct washout in your wing.
❏ ❏ 7. If this is your first or third time through this
section, glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa rib doubler to
the inboard edge of the tip rib.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 8. Using 3/32" x 1/4" x 24" balsa stick, cut
and glue cap strips to all of the exposed ribs,
including the trailing edge of the tip rib and its
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 5. Use a piece of 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa
to sheet the center section of the wing.
❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ 9. Trim the sheeting flush with the root rib,
tip rib, sub leading edge and the aileron bay.
❏ ❏ 10. Lift the wing off your work surface. If this is
your second time through this section, go back to
the start of “BUILD THE WING” and build the other
wing half. If this is your fourth time through this
section, go to “FINISH THE WING”.
❏ ❏ 11. Flip your wing over, aligning the spar over
the spar on the plans. Notice how you did not have
to move your wing jig -- it still sets the washout for
your wing.
❏ ❏ 15. Sand the trailing edge sheeting as shown
in the cross section on the plans and in the photo.
❏ ❏ 16. Glue the remaining balsa shear webs in
place, as shown on the plans.
❏ ❏ 17. Sand the 1/8" sub leading edge and the
1/4" trailing edge to match the contour of the ribs.
❏ ❏ 18. Trim the leading edge sheeting flush with
the sub leading edge, W2A, DP, W1A and the tip
❏ ❏ 12. From the 1" x 3" x 7-7/8" balsa block, cut
and fit the filler block between ribs W1 and W2.
Sand the block to the shape of the ribs. When
satisfied with the fit, glue it in place.
❏ ❏ 19. Sand the sheeting flush with the root rib.
❏ ❏ 20. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa W4 rib doubler
in place at the root end of the aileron bay, then trim
the sheeting flush with the outside of the doubler.
❏ ❏ 13. Glue two 1/2" x 3/4" x 3/4" basswood strut
blocks into the forward and rear strut braces and to
❏ ❏ 21. Go back to step one of “SHEET THE
WING” and sheet the bottom of this wing panel.
❏ ❏ 14. Using a piece of leftover 3/32" balsa, fit and
glue a cap onto the bottom of the rear strut block.
❏ ❏ 1. Glue the 1/2" x 1-3/8" x 42" balsa leading
edge to the front of the wing.
❏ ❏ 2. Using the plans and the leading edge
gauge as a reference, razor plane and sand the
leading edge to shape.
❏ ❏ 1. From two 3/32" x 3" x 42" balsa sheets, cut
two aileron sheets 18-9/16" long. Pin one in place
over the aileron section on the plan.
❏ ❏ 3. Hold the 2-1/2" x 2-3/4" x 14-7/8" balsa wing
tip onto the wing tip rib and trace the tip rib onto the
wing tip with a pen. Cut the block on the line you
❏ ❏ 2. From a 3/8" x 7/8" x 24" balsa stick, fit and
glue the aileron leading edge to the sheeting.
❏ ❏ 3. Position the two end ribs flush with the inboard
and outboard ends of the aileron sheeting. Glue in
place to the sheeting and to the aileron leading edge.
Glue the remaining four aileron ribs in place, using
the location of the main ribs as a guide.
❏ ❏ 4. Glue the wing tip in place on the tip rib.
Using the plans as a reference, razor plane and
sand the tip to shape.
❏ ❏ 5. Cut a 1/2" servo lead hole in the bottom
sheeting near the root rib of the wing.
❏ ❏ 4. From a 3/8" x 3/4" x 24" balsa stick, fit and
glue the four hinge doublers and the one control
horn support.
❏ 6. Go back to step 9 on page 9 and build the other
wing half.
We tested our prototype Super Decathlons with an
O.S.® 1.20 4-stroke and with a 25cc US Engine™.
From this point forward when we refer to a glow
installation, we are referring specifically to the
steps we took to install the O.S. 1.20 4-stroke.
Similarly, when we refer to gas installation, we are
referring specifically to the steps we took to install
the US 25. If you are installing a gas or glow
engine other than those listed above, you may
need to modify these steps somewhat to
accommodate your particular engine.
❏ ❏ 5. Shape the leading edge, hinge doublers and
the control horn support to the shape of the ribs.
❏ ❏ 6. Sand the trailing edge of the sheeting to the
same angle as the top of the ribs.
Note: The pieces used to assemble the engine
mount for the gasoline engines are also utilized as
engine mount spacers to position the glow engine
sufficiently forward from the firewall. For clarity, we
will refer to this assembly as “engine mount spacer”
in the glow sections; however, please note that it is
the same piece as the gasoline engine mount.
❏ ❏ 7. Glue the other 3/32" x 3" x 18-9/16" balsa
aileron sheet in place. Note: Align the trailing edge
of the sheeting as shown in the photo.
The following 13 steps are for glow installation.
Skip these steps if you are using a gas engine.
❏ ❏ 8. Position and trace around the die-cut 1/8"
ply control horn mount on the bottom of the aileron.
Remove the control horn mount. Cut and remove
the 3/32" sheeting from the area you traced. Glue
the control horn mount in place and sand it flush
with the aileron sheeting.
❏ 1. Select the three die-cut 1/8" ply firewall pieces
A, B and C. With the embossed labels toward the
desk top, laminate B onto A then C onto B, all with
6-minute epoxy. This assembly is now known as
the firewall.
❏ ❏ 9. Sand the leading edge to a V-shape, using
the cross section at W5 on the plans as a guide.
❏ 10. Repeat steps 1-9 for the other aileron.
❏ 8. Loosely mount the Great Planes 60 - 120
engine mount to the engine mount spacer/firewall
with four 8-32 x 1-1/4" socket head cap screws and
#8 washers. Slide the mount halves to the widest
position, then tighten the mount to the firewall.
❏ 2. Turn over the firewall and draw two straight
lines from the outer punch marks. Note: These
lines are used for locating the engine on the firewall.
❏ 3. Drill four 7/32" holes at the punch marks.
❏ 9. Position the engine on the engine mount so
that the spinner backplate is 6-7/8" from the
firewall. Note: Do not confuse the engine mount
spacer with the firewall.
❏ 10. Mount the engine to the mount with 8-32 x
3/4" socket head cap screws, confirming the 6-7/8"
measurement from the firewall to the spinner
❏ 4. Laminate the two die-cut 1/8" ply engine
mounts, creating the engine mount spacer.
❏ 11. Make a mark on the firewall for the throttle
pushrod. Also make marks for the fuel line holes.
❏ 5. Glue the engine mount spacer to the firewall,
centering it on the lines you made on the firewall.
❏ 6. Drill four 7/32" holes through the engine mount
spacer, using the holes in the firewall as a guide.
❏ 12. Remove the engine mount from the firewall.
Drill 1/4" fuel line holes and a 3/16" hole for the
throttle pushrod.
❏ 7. Using a hammer, gently tap the 8-32 blind
nuts into the back of the firewall. Glue the blind
nuts in the firewall with thin CA.
The following steps are for a gas engine installation.
Skip these 10 steps if you are using a glow engine.
❏ 4. Using a hammer, gently tap four 1/4-20 blind
nuts into the back of the firewall. Glue in place with
thin CA.
❏ 1. Select the three die-cut 1/8" ply firewall pieces
A, B and C. With the embossed labels toward the
desk top, laminate B onto A then C onto B, all with
6-minute epoxy. This assembly is now known as
the firewall.
❏ 2. Laminate the two die-cut 1/8" ply engine mounts.
❏ 5. Using four 1/4-20 x 3/4" bolts, attach the
engine mount to the engine. Note: Make sure the
embossed letters are facing the engine when the
engine is bolted to the engine mount.
❏ 3. Drill eight 1/4" holes in the laminated engine
mount at the punch marks. Drill four 9/32" holes in
the firewall at the outermost punch marks as
shown in the photo.
❏ 6. Using four 1/4-20 x 1" bolts and washers,
attach the engine mount (with engine pre-installed)
to the firewall. Note: Tighten the bolts just enough
so that the bolts going into the back of the engine
imprint the firewall.
❏ 1. Place the FUSELAGE PLAN on your workbench
and cover the bulkheads with Plan Protector.
❏ 7. Remove the engine and mount from the
firewall. Using your rotary tool, make clearance
holes in the firewall for the engine mounting bolts
and washers.
❏ 8. Re-attach the engine and mount to the
Note: For clarity, our photos show the fuse
components off of the plan, but you should build
over the plans.
❏ 9. Make a mark on the engine mount for the throttle
pushrod. Also make marks for the fuel line holes.
❏ 2. Using 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" and 1/4" x 1/4" x 30"
balsa sticks, build the bulkheads 4, 5 and 6. Note:
Use the ends of two different 1/4" x 1/4" x 30"
sticks for the cross-trussing. Save the leftover long
sections of 1/4" x 1/4" stick for the fuse sides.
❏ 3. Notch the outer framework of bulkhead 4 to
allow clearance for the side windows, using the
plans and the plastic windows as a guide.
❏ 10. Remove the engine mount from the firewall
and the engine mount from the engine. Drill 1/4"
holes for the fuel lines and a 3/16" hole for the
throttle pushrod.
❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply cabin side to the diecut 1/8" ply forward fuse side. Repeat this step to
make the other fuse side.
❏ 5. After covering the fuse plan with Plan
Protector, pin one fuse side in place on the plans.
This is now your right fuse side. Lightly write the
word “right” on the fuse side for easy reference.
❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa top longeron and
die-cut 1/8" balsa bottom longeron to the fuse sides.
❏ 10. Lift the left fuse side off the right side and lay
it down mirrored to the right fuse side. Write “left”
on the inside for clarity. Remove both fuse sides
from your work surface. Sand the glue joints
smooth on both sides of each fuse side.
❏ 11.Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply wing saddle doubler
and the two die-cut 1/8" balsa longeron doublers to
the inside of both fuse sides. Note: Make sure you
built a left and a right fuse side.
❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply rear fuse side to the
top and bottom longerons.
❏ 8. Remove the pins from the fuse side and cover
the fuse side with Plan Protector.
❏ 12. From the two leftover 1/4" x 1/4" balsa sticks
(from making the bulkheads) and two 1/4" x 1/4" x
30" balsa sticks, fit and glue the side stringers in
❏ 9. Align the second fuse side over the first and
pin it in place. Glue the longerons and the rear fuse
side in place, making the other fuse side assembly.
These assemblies are now known as fuse sides.
Note: It is very important that the fuse sides be the
same. Take your time aligning these pieces so that
the second fuse side matches the first.
❏ 1. Pin the die-cut 1/8" ply fuse bottom in place
on the top view plans. Note: Make sure the slot in
the front of the fuse bottom matches the plan. This
slot helps set the right thrust.
❏ 7. Laminate the two die-cut 1/8" ply tail gear mounts.
❏ 2. Fit the fuse sides, bulkhead 3A and bulkhead
4 in place. Use a square to check that the fuse sides
are perpendicular to your work surface at 3A. Glue
3A to the fuse sides and fuse bottom. Note: The
top of bulkhead 3A has a slight taper towards the
inside, so there should be a slight gap between
your square and the fuse side at the top.
❏ 8. Fit bulkhead 7, the tail gear mounts, the aft
fuse bottom and the stab base to the fuse. Using
your square, check that the fuse sides are
perpendicular to your work surface and glue
bulkhead 7 to the fuse sides.
❏ 3. Glue bulkhead 4 to the sides and bottom,
again making sure the fuse sides are perpendicular
to your work bench.
❏ 9. Glue the aft fuse bottom to the fuse sides.
❏ 10. Epoxy the tail gear mounts and the stab
base to the fuse sides.
❏ 11. Laminate the two die-cut 1/8" ply servo mounts.
❏ 4. Epoxy the firewall in place, again using your
square to make sure the fuse sides are perpendicular
to your work surface.
❏ 12. Using the plans to determine positioning and
the servo tray to gain the proper spacing, fit and
glue bulkheads 5 and 6. Note: The bulkheads
extend past the fuse top and bottom at this stage.
❏ 5. Glue the fuse bottom to the fuse sides.
❏ 6. Unpin the fuse bottom from your work surface.
❏ 13. Sand bulkheads 4, 5 and 6 flush with the top
of the fuse.
❏ 14. Turn the fuse upside-down. Glue the servo
tray to bulkheads 5 and 6.
❏ 15. Sand bulkheads 5 and 6 flush with the
bottom of the fuse.
❏ 19. Turn the fuse right-side up. Laminate the diecut 1/8" ply bulkheads 3B and 3C with medium CA,
aligning the bottom corners.
❏ 16. Fit the servo hatch in place, trimming as
necessary. Note: The hatch is made oversize to
allow for any deviations in building.
❏ 17. Mount the hatch to the fuse with four #2 x
3/8" flat head screws.
❏ 20. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply 3D bulkhead
support in place.
❏ 18. Using 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa, sheet the
bottom of the fuse with the grain running across
the fuse bottom, NOT along the length of the fuse.
Note: Be careful not to glue the hatch to the fuse.
Save the leftover sheeting for the front deck.
❏ 21. Epoxy the laminated 3B and 3C in place.
bulkheads, then the first front ply shear web. DO
NOT drill through the second shear web.
❏ 22. Fit and epoxy the 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 5-3/4" ply
wing bolt plate.
❏ 3. From the 5/16" dowel, cut two 3" pieces. Fit
the 5/16" dowel through the hole you drilled.
❏ 4. Drill the second hole the same as the first,
making sure the wing halves are still tight against
each other.
❏ 23. From a 1" x 1-3/4" x 6" balsa block, shape and
glue the filler block to the top of the wing bolt plate.
❏ 5. Remove the wings from the fuse and the wing
tube. Round one end of each 5/16" x 3" dowel. Epoxy
a wing dowel in place in each wing half, with 1/2”
of the rounded end protruding. Allow the epoxy to
cure completely before continuing.
❏ 1. Slide the wing halves together on the aluminum
tube and center the wing on the fuse. Note: Be sure
the wing halves are slid all the way onto the tube.
❏ 6. Cut the 1/16" x 2" x 7" birch ply sheet in half,
making two 3-1/2" wing bolt plates. Glue one wing
bolt plate to each wing half as shown.
❏ 2. Using a 5/16" drill bit, drill one hole through
bulkheads 3A, 3B, 3C, the dowel plates and the
front ply shear web. Note: Only drill through the
❏ 7. On each of the wing bolt plates make a mark 1"
from the trailing edge and 2" from the root of the wing.
❏ 9. Drill two 13/64" tap holes at the marks you made
on the wing bolt plates through the wing bolt plate.
❏ 10. Remove the wing from the fuselage. Tap
threads into the holes in the ply plates in the fuse
with a 1/4-20 tap. Apply thin CA to the tapped
threads to harden them. Re-tap the threads after
the CA has hardened. Hint: Your drill, triggered at
a slow speed, works well as a tap driver.
❏ 8. Put the wing halves back on the wing tube and
the wing back on the fuse. Align the wing squarely
on the fuselage. This is easily done using a piece
of string as a guide. Put a pin in the tail of the
fuselage at the centerline. Tie a loop in the end of
the string and place it over the pin. Move the other
end of the string to one wing tip and put some
masking tape around the string. Draw an arrow on
the tape where it reaches the wing tip. Now swing
the string over to the other wing tip. If the tip aligns
with the arrow, the wing is properly aligned. If not,
adjust the wing’s position and try again. Continue
to adjust the wing until both wing tips are aligned
with the arrow on the tape. Secure the wing in its
squared position.
❏ 11. Enlarge the holes in the wings to 1/4".
❏ 3. Glue the tank floor, with the tank attached, in
place in the fuse.
❏ 4. Attach the fuel lines to your tank and route
them through the firewall. Note: You may have go
up through the front deck plate with the carburetor
line. If so, run the line now, then cut the deck plate
as needed during its installation to allow for the
fuel line.
❏ 1. Mount the wing to the fuse. Using 3/32" x 3" x
30" balsa sheeting, sheet the top of the fuse with
the grain running ACROSS the fuse, not lengthwise.
Note: Do not glue the wing to the fuse. Save the
leftover sheeting for the front deck.
❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply front deck plate in place.
❏ 2. Assemble the fuel tank. Mount the tank to the
die-cut 1/8" ply tank floor with foam and rubber
bands. Note: The front of the tank floor has the
right thrust in it to match the firewall, so make sure
to mount the tank on the correct side of the tray.
❏ 6. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply bulkhead 2 and the
die-cut 1/8" ply instrument panel (IP) perpendicular
to the front deck plate.
❏ 2. From a 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and
glue the four belly pan stringers in place.
❏ 7. Using two 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa sticks, fit and
glue the seven front deck stringers in place.
❏ 3. Sand the side stringers to the shape of the
❏ 4. From each of three 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets,
cut a 6-1/4" long piece. Edge glue the three 6-1/4"
pieces together, making one 9" x 6-1/4" sheet. Save
the three leftover 17-3/4" sheets for step 9.
❏ 8. Using the two leftover pieces of 3/32" x 3"
balsa (from the rear top and bottom of the fuse),
sheet the front deck. Note: You may need to wet
the outside of the sheeting with an ammonia/water
mix to bend it without cracking.
❏ 5. Glue the sheeting to the sub-formers and
stringers, wetting with an ammonia/water mix if
❏ 1. Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply sub-formers 1
and 2 perpendicular to the fuse bottom.
❏ 6. Sand the sheeting to the shape shown on the
front view of sub-former 4 on the plan.
❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply sub-formers 3, 4, 5
and 6 in place perpendicular to the fuse bottom.
Glue the two die-cut 1/8" ply sub-former braces to
sub-formers 3 and 4.
❏ 10. Sand a taper on one 6" end of the sheet so
that when the sheet is positioned on sub-formers 5
and 6 the tapered end of the sheet fits flat against
the fuselage bottom.
❏ 8. Glue the four 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stringers
in place. Sand the stringers to the shape of the
sub-formers. Note: The photo shows you how the
right side stringers are sanded to match the shape
of the sub-formers. Sand both sets of stringers to
match the sub-formers.
❏ 9. From three 1/8" x 3" x 17-1/2" balsa sheets
(leftover from the front of the belly pan), cut three
7-5/8" sheets. Edge glue two pieces, making a 7-5/8"
x 6" sheet. Save the third piece for the sides of the
belly pan. Set the remaining 9-7/8" pieces aside for
step 14.
❏ 11. Glue the sheeting in place, aligning it with
the center of sub-former 5 (front to back, not left
to right).
❏ 12. Trim the sheeting and sand the edge to the
angle of the sub-formers.
❏ 15. Round the edges of the belly pan sheeting
to shape.
❏ 13. Glue the third 1/8" x 3" x 7-5/8" sheet to the
side of the sub-formers and to the center of subformer 5 (front to back). Trim this sheeting flush
with the bottom sheeting. Use the leftover piece to
sheet the other side.
❏ 16. Epoxy the 1/8" x 3-1/8" x 7-1/2" ply landing
gear plate in place inside the fuse.
❏ 17. Drill four 3/16" holes through the fuse bottom
and the landing gear plate, using the landing gear
as a guide. Remove the gear and enlarge these
holes to 13/64".
❏ 14. Using the remaining three 9-7/8" balsa
sheets, sheet the last section, covering the middle
first, then the sides.
horizontally as well. When satisfied with the fit and
alignment, glue the stab to the fuselage with
30-minute epoxy.
❏ 3. Cut the 1/2" x 12" balsa triangle stock in half,
making two 6" pieces. Glue them to the fuse and
the bottom of the stab.
❏ 18. Using four 8-32 x 3/4" bolts, pull four 8-32
blind nuts into the landing gear plate. Glue them in
place with thin CA.
❏ 1. Sand a flat on the leading edge of the stab so
the stab fits flush against bulkhead 7.
❏ 4. Using a 90 degree triangle, align the fin
vertically. Be sure that the fin is also aligned with
the centerline of the fuselage. Glue the fin in place
with 30-minute epoxy.
❏ 5. Using the template provided on the plans, cut
the dorsal fin from leftover 3/8" balsa. Round the
leading edge of the dorsal fin. Glue it in place.
❏ 2. Place the stab on the fuselage and align it with
the wing and centerline of the fuselage. Use the
same string technique that you used for aligning
the wing. Be sure that the stab aligns with the wing
❏ 1. Drill an 1/8" hole which is 3/4" deep in one end
of each of the four shaped basswood wing struts.
❏ 6. Laminate two of the die-cut 1/8" balsa top
spines, making a 1/4" spine. Laminate the other
two, making a second 1/4" spine. Glue the spines
to the top sheeting, with the forward edges 1-1/4"
from the fuse side and the rear edges against the
fin and the forward edge of bulkhead 7.
❏ 2. Thread four 6-32 x 1-1/2" studs into the struts
until 3/4" of the stud is protruding from the end of
the strut. Do not glue at this time. Note: You will
permanently secure the studs to the struts after the
model is completely covered and all measurements
and alignments have been checked.
❏ 3. Using the wing plans as a reference, drill four
1/8" holes through the bottom sheeting and through
the four basswood strut blocks.
❏ ❏ 4. Screw one of the nylon strut ends onto one
strut. This is now your front strut.
❏ 7. Sand the front of the spines to the shape
shown on the plans. Fill in around the dorsal fin
and the spines with leftover 3/8" x 1/2" balsa stick
and filler.
❏ ❏ 5. Cut the belly pan sheeting behind subformer 3 until you can fit the nylon strut end in the
slot. Drill a 1/8" hole for the strut mounting screw.
Mount the front strut to the fuse with a #8 x 3/4"
truss head screw.
❏ ❏ 6. Mount the wing to the fuselage. Screw one
of the 6-32 x 1-1/2" studs all the way into one of the
nylon strut ends. Mount the strut end (and stud) in
the forward hole in the wing.
❏ ❏ 7. Align the strut overlapping the strut end.
Make a mark on the strut at the position of the end
of the strut end as shown in the photo. Remove the
strut. Cut the strut at the mark you made. Drill a 1/8"
hole in the end of the strut. Remove the strut end
from the wing and thread the 6-32 stud into the hole
until the strut end is flush against the strut. Do not
glue at this time.
❏ ❏ 9. Screw a nylon end onto a second strut,
making your rear strut. Mount the rear strut to the
wing. Align the rear edge of the rear strut at the
rear edge of the forward strut as shown in the
photo. Extend the line on the front strut onto the
rear strut. Make a line on the front strut along the
rear strut’s leading edge as shown on the photo.
❏ ❏ 10. Using the lines you drew and the sketch
before step 8 as references, cut the marked area
out of the trailing edge of the forward strut, making
a good mating joint for the rear strut. Cut the rear
strut along the diagonal line you drew. Glue the two
struts together.
❏ ❏ 8. Beginning at the trailing edge of the
fuselage end of the forward strut, make a mark
1/4" into the airfoil (toward the leading edge).
Measure 5" down the length of the strut and again
make a mark 1/4" forward of the trailing edge as
shown in the sketch. Draw a line between these
two marks, which indicates where the two struts
will join. Mount the forward strut.
❏ ❏ 11. Remove the strut assembly from the
model. Blend the base of the struts together with a
mixture of epoxy and microballoons or milled
fiberglass resin. For additional strength, we strongly
recommend wrapping the assembly with glass
cloth or carbon tow.
❏ 12. Repeat steps 4-11 to mount the struts on the
other side. Label each strut assembly.
to the two rear halves and test fit it over the front of
the fuse. After all the fitting is done, glue all joints
with thin CA.
❏ 7. Cut the holes in the cowl for the engine,
carburetor, air inlets and air exit. If you go slowly
and remove a little material each time, you will be
rewarded with a tight-fitting and good-looking cowl.
❏ 8. Mount the cowl with four #6 x 1/2" sheet metal
screws and washers. Reinforce seams inside the
cowl and the mounting holes with 1" wide fiberglass
❏ 9. Fill the joints with Bondo or a similar filler.
Sand smooth.
❏ 1. Trim the windshield along the cut-lines and
test fit it to the cabin. Trim where necessary for a
good fit. Tack glue the windshield in place. Note:
The windshield will be permanently attached to the
fuse after the model is covered.
❏ 10. Mount the tail gear to the fuse with three #4
x 1/2" sheet metal screws. Drill a hole in the
leading edge of the rudder for the tail gear wire.
Our radio installation consisted of the following:
A. One high-torque servo for each aileron.
B. One high-torque servo for each elevator, with
separate pushrods.
C. One high-torque servo for the rudder.
D. One standard servo for the throttle.
E. One 1200 mAh battery pack to support the
additional servo drain.
❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuse. Using a 3/8" x 3"
x 7-1/2" balsa sheet, fit and glue the wing root filler
blocks to ribs W2A, leaving a 1/16" gap between
the windshield and the filler blocks.
❏ 1. Fit and install the elevator and rudder servos
into the servo tray. Install a control horn on each
elevator and on the rudder. Install the pushrods.
Connect the linkages to the servos.
❏ 3. Remove the wing and sand the filler blocks to
the shape of the airfoil.
❏ 4. Mount your engine to the fuselage.
❏ 2. Install one aileron servo and its control horn,
pushrod, and linkage with a 28" servo lead in each
wing half.
❏ 5. Round the bottom corners of the fuselage
sides to match the cowl shape as shown on the plans.
❏ 6. Trim the three cowl sections along the trim
lines. Tape the rear top and rear bottom sections
together with masking tape. Tape the front section
❏ 1. Finish the cockpit. The cockpit area was
designed to be structure-free so that you could add
as much detail as desired. Add neat details such
as seats and scale instrument panel by installing
the cockpit kit (available separately).
❏ 2. Cover the model. If you prefer iron-on
coverings that do not require painting, this type of
model lends itself very well to 21st Century Fabric®.
This material has a painted appearance with a
fabric texture. It will make your Super Decathlon
look like it has been covered with fabric and
painted, just like the real Super Decathlons were
when they came off the assembly line! Your
Dynaflite Super Decathlon will require two fifteenfoot rolls of covering.
❏ 3. Glue the four die-cut 1/8" ply servo mount
pieces together for the throttle servo. Mount the
servo in the mount. Glue the servo mount to the
fuse side in a location that does not bind your
throttle linkage. Note: There is another set of diecut 1/8" ply servo mount pieces which can either
be used for a kill switch or a smoke switch or valve,
or not used at all.
❏ 3. Finish the hinge installation.
❏ 4. Position and glue the windshield to the fuse
with special canopy glue such as RC/56 Canopy
Glue. Paint the cabin and window frames. Trim the
plastic sheets to fit behind the window openings
and glue trim in place with canopy glue. Note: Test
spray your paint on a small, leftover piece of your
butyrate windshield and allow to dry for at least
48 hours to ensure compatibility prior to painting
your windshield.
❏ 1. Measuring at the widest part of the trailing
edge of the rudder, ailerons and elevator, set the
control throws as listed below. After a few flights
you may want to change the throws to suit your
own flying style.
Set your control throws as follows:
High Rate
Low Rate
1-1/4” up
1-1/4” down
5/8” up
5/8” down
1-1/2” up
1-1/2” down
1” up
1” down
1-1/2” left
1-1/2” right
1” left
1” right
❏ 1. Attach the wing to the fuselage and the struts
to the wings. Place the aircraft upside-down and
support as necessary so that the wing incidence
measured at the fuselage is zero.
❏ 2. Use an incidence meter to confirm the 2° of
washout at the wing tips. Remove the struts and
epoxy the strut studs into the struts at the exact
length which gave you the proper washout.
Do not confuse this procedure with “checking
the C.G.” which will be discussed later in the
Many problems are the result of vibration caused
by an unbalanced propeller. Nuts and bolts can
vibrate loose. Vibration can damage delicate radio
components and even damage the delicate glow
plug element, resulting in an engine that is difficult
or impossible to start. Purchase a Top Flite Precision
Magnetic Balancer™ or a Great Planes Fingertip
Prop Balancer to accurately balance your
Now that the model is covered and nearly
completed, this is the time to balance it laterally
(side-to-side). Here’s how:
❏ 1. With the wing level and attached to the model
(and the engine and muffler installed), lift the
model by the propeller shaft and the fin. This may
require an assistant. Do this several times.
❏ 2. The wing that consistently drops indicates the
heavy side. Balance the model by adding weight to
the other wing tip.
Follow the battery charging instructions in the
instruction manual that came with your radio
control system. You should always charge your
batteries the night before you fly.
An airplane that is laterally balanced will track
better during aerobatic maneuvers.
This section is important and must not be omitted.
A model that is not properly balanced will be
unstable and possibly unflyable. Note: You must
check the balance point with all components
installed in the model and the fuel tank empty.
Inspect all nuts, screws and wheel collars. Make
sure that you installed the screws that hold the
servo arms onto the servos and that the servo
wires are securely connected to the receiver. If you
are not thoroughly familiar with R/C models, ask an
experienced modeler to inspect your radio
installation and make sure the control surfaces
respond correctly. The engine must be “broken-in”
according to the engine manufacturer's
recommendations for break-in. Refer to the Safety
Precautions on this page before you start your
engine. After you run the engine on the model,
make sure all screws remain tight, the hinges are
secure and the prop is on tight.
❏ 1. Attach the wing and struts to the fuselage.
Then, accurately mark the balance point on the
bottom of both wing halves next to the fuselage.
Check and set the CG as shown on the plan at
3-3/8" aft of the leading edge. After your first flights,
the CG can be adjusted fore or aft up to 1/2" from
the optimum CG to fit your flying style.
When you start and run the engine, keep your face
and body as well as all spectators away from the
plane of rotation of the propeller.
Check the operational range of the radio before the
first flight. Before you turn your radio on, the first
thing you always must do is make sure no one else
is on your frequency (channel). Most model flying
fields utilize frequency control so familiarize
yourself with their system. Collapse your transmitter
antenna and turn on the transmitter, then the
receiver (the receiver should never be on by itself).
You should be able to walk at least 100 feet away
from the model and still have control. Have an
assistant stand by your model and tell you what the
control surfaces are doing while you operate them
from the transmitter. Repeat this test with an
assistant holding the model and running the engine
at various speeds. If the control surfaces do not
always respond correctly, don't fly! Find and correct
the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
or corrosion, loose fasteners that may cause
vibration, a defective on/off switch, low battery
voltage or a defective cell, a damaged receiver
antenna or a receiver crystal that may have been
damaged from a previous crash.
Keep loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long
hair or loose objects away from the prop. Be
conscious of pencils, screwdrivers or other objects
that may fall out of your shirt or jacket pockets.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter and follow
the instructions to start your engine.
Ask an assistant to hold the model from the rear
while you start the engine and operate the
Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch the engine
during or immediately after you operate it. Make
sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not
leak onto a hot engine and cause a fire.
To stop the engine, close the carburetor barrel
(rotor) or pinch the fuel line to discontinue the fuel
flow. Do not use your hands, fingers or any body
part to stop the engine. Never throw anything into
the prop of a running engine.
The best place to fly your R/C model is at an AMA
(Academy of Model Aeronautics) chartered club
field. Ask your hobby dealer or the AMA if there is
a club in your area and join it (the address and
telephone number for the AMA is listed on page 3
of this instruction book). Club fields exist to make
your R/C flying safe and enjoyable. We recommend
that you join the AMA and a local club so you may
have a safe place to fly and insurance in case of a
flying accident.
Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions
may cause severe injury to yourself and others.
Store model fuel in a safe place away from high
heat, sparks or flames. Do not smoke near the
engine or fuel as it is very flammable. Engine
exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon
monoxide, so do not run the engine in a closed
room or garage.
If a club flying site is not available, find a large,
grassy area at least 6 miles away from houses,
buildings, streets and other R/C activity like boats
and cars. Avoid flying R/C models near traffic or
areas such as parks, school yards, office building
lawns, etc, which may seem inviting but are much
too small to fly safely.
Get help from an experienced modeler if you are
not confident operating r/c engines.
Use safety glasses when you operate model
engines. Do not run the engine near loose gravel
or sand; the propeller may throw loose material in
your face or eyes.
If you are not an experienced modeler who has
flown aircraft such as this, we highly recommend
that you get an experienced modeler to assist you
with your first flights. An experienced modeler can
take your Super Decathlon up for the first time and
make sure it performs correctly, then give you
valuable flight instruction. He can hand you the
transmitter when the Super Decathlon has climbed
to a safe altitude or connect your transmitter to his
if both of your systems have a trainer cord or
“buddy box” capability. Assistance from an
experienced modeler will make your modeling
“career” progress faster (and cheaper).
the same basic flying characteristics. Your Dynaflite
Super Decathlon faithfully duplicates these same
To fly your Super Decathlon in a scale-like manner,
you should work on coordinating your turns by
using a little rudder in addition to the ailerons. You
can do this manually or use a computer radio to
mix-in some rudder with ailerons.
Before attempting your first landing you should first
try some slow flight and stalls at higher altitudes to
become familiar with the Super Decathlon's slow
speed characteristics. You will probably find the
model slows down quicker and requires more
power than you are used to. Remember that
aircraft of the Super Decathlon's era had high drag
and limited low speed control effectiveness,
especially for the ailerons. The rudder is very
effective, however. Continue to carry approximately
1/4 power and speed until you initiate the flare,
then reduce power and allow the model to gently
settle to the ground. If you must go around, add
power and accelerate straight ahead. Do not
attempt to climb or turn until you have accelerated
to a safe flying speed.
First flight attempts should be reserved for calm
days when the wind speed is less than five mph.
Always takeoff (and land) into the wind. Check the
operation of all controls just before takeoff. This will
eliminate the possibility of overlooking reversed or
disconnected controls (it happens).
As you apply power on takeoff, you will need to
apply a slight amount of right rudder to compensate
for engine torque and propeller “P” effect. The tail will
rise almost immediately, indicating that the tail
surfaces have gained effectiveness. Allow the model
to continue to accelerate until it has reached flying
speed. Use as much of the available runway as you
can. Then, gently apply some up elevator. Your
Super Decathlon should slowly lift from the runway.
Continue straight ahead until you have accelerated
to a safe flying speed.
We hope you enjoy the realistic looks and
performance of your Super Decathlon.
As an aerobatic trainer, the full-scale Decathlon is
used to teach takeoffs, landings, turns, stalls,
spins and gentle aerobatics. Being relatively lowpowered, it does not have a high rate of climb and
has poor vertical performance. To gain speed for a
loop, it is necessary to dive for a brief period.
Barrel rolls are slow, teaching rudder/elevator
coordination. While the Super Decathlon is a more
powerful and advanced model, it still has most of
Use copies of this page to plan your trim scheme