Glasses Case - Amazon Web Services
2 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
Table of Contents
4 What makes a pair of pants into “jeans”? Rugged construction, typified by bulky seams and hems and double-stitched accents, is the key. With the right tools, and our tips & tricks, you can replicate these features on your home sewing machine.
8 Who says girls with glasses have to keep them in boring cases? This beautiful cutwork case is stitched almost entirely on the embroidery machine. If you have the BERNINA CutWork Accessory, your machine will even do the fussy cutting for you!
10 Use your serger and a pre-cut quilt-block kit to create a great baby shower gift in an afternoon! In this cuddly quilt, basic serger stitches are paired with decorative threads to produce seams that are attractive as well as functional.
16 The BERNINA 830 has the tremendous capability of bringing ALL sewing and decorative stitches into its embroidery system, and embroidering them instead of stitching them. Several of these “transformed” stitches were saved and transferred to BERNINA Embroidery Software, and then used to create perfectly proportioned stitches for the oval “frames” on this heirloom-inspired pillow.
Managing Editor / Creative Director
Barbara Weiland Talbert
Through the Needle Online is published six times a year by BERNINA of America, Inc. for machine stitchers and embroiderers of all types and all skill levels.
This publication may be shared and reproduced in its original format, with the stipulation that credit be given to Through the Needle Online.
3702 Prairie Lake Court, Aurora, IL 60504 berninausa.com throughtheneedle.com
©BERNINA of America, Inc., 2011
I S S U E 5 • 3
It’s spring! It may not feel like it in northern parts of the USA, but spring officially arrived in March regardless of
and you’ll be ready for al fresco dining on the patio, even if you have to clear away the snow before you set the table.
Shopping for jeans can be a two-fold challenge. Finding a pair that fits comes first, but often when you finally find a pair that does fit, the style is hopelessly wrong. If you make your own jeans ... well, that’s a different story. It’s easy to make authentic “jeans” when you use just the right collection of feet and accessories for sewing denim. Pair these with select sewing techniques and you’ll be wearing jeans that fit and look great in no time!
Sunglasses, reading glasses, and regular old “need-em-to-see” spectacles — they all deserve a protective case that’s pretty as well as functional. And with Mother’s Day just around the corner, wouldn’t a custom-made case be a great gift for Mom? The beautiful cutwork on this elegant accessory is from OESD’s Posies & Petals embroidery collection. All of the stitching and cutting can be done on your embroidery machine using the
BERNINA CutWork Accessory. While your embroidery machine is stitching away, pull out your serger and make a
I hope you enjoy this issue of Through the Needle ONLINE. I love hearing from our readers, so if you have suggestions for future issues, please send them to me at jo @ berninausa.com. Have a lovely spring, and watch for our next issue in June!
Design a ruffled scarf without ruffling a single feather. Create this unique, playful scarf so quickly and easily that you’ll want one for every outfit and season. With spring just around the corner, begin your collection with a light, breezy cotton scarf!
Project by Ashley Johnston
Visit sewingrepublic.com for more project instructions and sewing tips!
4 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
Machine Accessories Make it Easy
Nearly everyone has a denim garment in their wardrobe: a pair of jeans that fit just right, a pencil skirt with jeans detailing, or a well-worn jacket that goes with everything. From the first pair of hard-wearing denim pants stitched by Levi Strauss during the Gold Rush to the designer jeans of today, “blue jeans” are an American icon and a ubiquitous part of modern culture. What makes a pair of pants into “jeans”? The rugged construction — typified by bulky seams and hems and double-stitched accents
— is the key. Ready-made jeans are sewn on industrial machines that are specially designed to produce these features, but with the right tools, and these tips & tricks, you can replicate them on your home sewing machine.
“5-Pocket Jeans” for
BERNINA My Label 3D
Fashion Pattern Software
The Basics: Stitches, Needles, and Thread
• For construction, select a medium-long, straight stitch with a stitch length of 3mm and use a strong thread such as Mettler Metrosene Plus.
Despite its fineness, this thread has a very high tensile strength and abrasion resistance, making it the ideal thread for sewing jeans.
• For plain seaming on denim using constructionweight thread, select a size 80/12 or 90/14
Jeans needle. Jeans needles have very sharp points and are able to penetrate thick, sturdy material easily.
• Use a thick thread for contrast topstitching, such as Mettler Cordonnet or YLI JeansStitch, and lengthen the straight stitch length to 4mm.
Get the look of ready-made jeans by using gold-colored threads such as Mettler Cordonnet colors #0261 and #0172 or YLI JeansStitch colors
#8 (Topaz Gold) and #7 (Blue Jean Gold).
• For contrast stitching with topstitching thread, select a size 90/14 or 100/16 Topstitch needle.
The large eye and deep groove accommodate the thick thread and allow it to move easily through the fabric.
• Use an overlock or overcast stitch with construction-weight thread for finishing raw edges, such as the fly facing. Alternatively, use a serger 4-thread overlock stitch with regular weight polyester serger thread such as Mettler
Metrocor or YLI Elite
Tools for Perfect Seams and Hems
Skipped stitches and snapped needles? With the
Height-Compensating Tool you’ll sew quickly and easily over every seam. Simply sew as you normally do, stopping when the presser foot comes up against the cross seam. Adjust the number of strips to one, two, or three, depending on the thickness of the seam to be sewn over. With the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot and place the tool under the foot and behind the needle. This levels the sole, allowing it to continue pressing against the feed dog and feeding the fabric through the machine. Lower the presser foot and continue
I S S U E 5 • 5 sewing into the bulky area, nudging the tool forward as you go.
As the foot begins to move off the seam, move the tool to the side of the foot, keeping the sole level.
Remove the tool when no longer needed.
Designed specifically for straight stitching over bulky seams, a jeans foot
(BERNINA Jeans Foot #8/8D) supports the fabric around the needle and prevents it from pulling the fabric when it moves up and down. It is also engineered to prevent
Jeans needles from flexing and breaking.
Contrast stitching gives the jeans style its distinctive appearance. Keeping those stitches perfectly parallel to the edges can be difficult, particularly when working with bulky fabrics like denim. An edgestitch foot, such as BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D, will be your new BFF! (BERNINA Friend Forever!).
Simply move the needle position a few clicks to the left and move the fabric edge along the guide in the center of the foot. Stitches will be placed just inside the edge.
TIP: For perfect pocket points, stitch to a corner and stop with the needle down in the fabric. Raise the presser foot, pivot the fabric around the needle, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching. For faster and more efficient stitching, raise and lower the presser foot using the knee lever of the BERNINA Free Hand System — this lets you keep your hands on your project rather than on the lever.
6 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
A double row of stitches along the side seams is another feature of jeans-style garments. After sewing the first row of stitches with an edgestitch foot, as above, attach an all-purpose foot and a seam guide to the machine.
Shown here are BERNINA
Reverse Pattern Foot #1D and the Adjustable Seam
Guide. Adjust them as needed, then stitch, guiding the fabric easily along the edge.
TIP: If your sewing machine has a dual-feed feature, such as the one on the BERNINA 8 Series machines, engage it when topstitching your denim seams.
Instead of being drafted with seam allowances, belt loops are generally cut in a long strip just under three times the finished width. Finish one long edge with an overcasting stitch or serger overlock. Fold the strip in thirds, first turning the raw edge under, then covering it with the finished edge.
Topstitch both long edges from the right side, then cut into shorter lengths as directed by the pattern instructions.
TIP: As an alternative to edgestitching, sew along the center of the strip using a 4mm wide
Double needle. Another option is a serger coverstitch. With these methods the underside of the beltloop is encased in stitches, so it is not necessary to finish one long edge before folding.
Bartacks are the authentic way to attach belt loops and reinforce the stress points of pockets and fly zippers. Use Wonder Tape to hold the belt loops in place, then use the Height Compensating
Tool to level the sole of the presser foot when stitching them in place.
Sew a test buttonhole through layers of scrap denim before stitching it on the project. For an accurate test, use the same layers of denim and interfacing as are in the waistband.
Once the buttonhole is programmed into memory you are able to stitch as many identical buttonholes as needed for your project.
Tip: The slit width of buttonholes on the BERNINA 8
Series sewing machines can be adjusted as needed to accommodate thick-shank buttons.
An all-purpose presser foot with a clear sole (BERNINA
Clear Foot #34/34C) provides increased visibility in the stitching area. This is especially helpful when sewing curves and corners.
Jeans typically have a fly zipper, which is basically a zipper with a flap behind it. A zipper foot allows stitching right at the edges of the foot, which makes it possible to stitch against the bulky areas, including zipper coils and the fly shield that lies underneath the zipper.
I S S U E 5 • 7
For authentic jeans style, sew the outer leg edges together with a flat-felled seam.
Traditional Flat-Felled Seam
Because it is stitched twice, this seam is very sturdy. Bulkier than a traditional seam, flat-felled seams are completely finished on both sides, having the raw edges tucked inside and stitched in place.
• Pin the fabrics wrong sides together. Stitch, then press the seam allowances to one side.
• Trim the lower seam allowance to half its width.
• Fold the top seam allowance around the lower one; press.
• Edgestitch the fold to hold it in place. In addition, edgestitch along the seam, creating parallel rows of stitching about ¼" apart.
Felling Foot Seam
A felling foot (BERNINA 8mm Lap Seam Foot #71) eliminates the tedious trimming and folding needed to produce traditional flat-felled seams, and is appropriate for light- to medium-weight denim.
• Allow a total of ¾" for seam allowances: ½" for the folded piece + ¼" for the covered piece. Or
— to make the math easy — just trim ¼" off each seam allowance; this will only slightly change the location of the seam.
• Place fabric edges wrong sides together, with the longer piece underneath — ½" extends to the right and is folded over the inner edge.
• Align the fold with inner edge of the right toe of the foot and adjust the needle position to the left as shown. Stitch; the fabric edge is automatically folded and held in place for stitching.
• Position the fabric under the foot again; this time stitch along the fold line to create a second line of stitching along the folded edge.
TIP: Sew a few stitches at the beginning of the seam to tack the fold in place before loading it into the foot.
TIP: When stitching over bulky seams, remove the fabric from the foot just before the seam, stitch over the bulk, then reinsert the fabric and continue
Faux Flat-Felled Seam
This seam is simpler to sew than a true flat-felled seam. From the outside it looks like a flat-felled seam, but the seam allowances are visible on the inside of the garment.
• Pin fabrics right sides together and stitch as for a plain ⅝"wide seam.
• Overcast (or serger overlock) the seam allowances together and press them toward the back of the garment.
• From the right side, edgestitch close to the seam line. Topstitch about ¼" from the edgestitching; this stitching will hold the seam allowances in place.
Inspiration magazine, Issue #43, Spring 2009 http: // www. bernina .com/naviinfo-n31-sEN.html
“My Label Jeans” webinar, Debbi Lashbrook, May
2009 (www. berninausa .com > Online Classes > My
Label Classes) http: // www. berninausa. com/news_ detail-n546-r0-i3545-sUS.html
Feetures Volumes 1 & 2, Jo Leichte and Susan Beck, editors, ©BERNINA of America, Inc., 2002
8 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
Visit www.berninausa.com to download instructions for a coordinating Pocket Full of
Petals & Posies Purse.
• Embroidery machine
• Sewing machine
• BERNINA CutWork compatible sewing machine
• BERNINA CutWork Software and Accessory
• BERNINA Embroidery Software 6
• 7" x 11" rectangle of UltraSuede
• 7" x 11" rectangle of batik fabric for lining
• OESD BadgeMaster Stabilizer
• Steam-A-Seam 2 double-stick fusible web
• 505 Temporary Basting Spray
• Isacord embroidery thread to blend with
• Large oval hoop
• Sharp embroidery scissors
• Echo-Quilting and CutWork Foot #44
• Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D
In the Embroidery Software
Select File > New.
Right click on the Hoop icon and select artista
255x145 Oval w/X-Y lines from the list of available hoops. Click OK.
Who says girls with glasses have to keep them in boring cases? This beautiful cutwork case is stitched almost entirely on the embroidery machine. If you have the
BERNINA CutWork Accessory, your machine will even do the fussy cutting for you! (Or you can use sharp scissors to do the cutting yourself.) Instructions for both methods are included with OESD’s Petals & Posies
Crafters Collection #011.
Left click on the Grid icon to turn on the grid.
Create a fabric placement line: Select the Open
Object tool and a straight stitch. Starting five grids spaces down and four grids spaces from the center, digitize the line using left and right clicks around the hoop. Press Enter.
Create the tack-down stitches: Copy and Paste the line and change the color.
Press Ctrl + A on the keyboard to
Select All. Click on the Align Centers icon.
Click on the Grid icon to remove the grid.
I S S U E 5 • 9
Select File > Insert Design and navigate to the Petals and Posies design folder. Select BC01107_CWC for use with the BERNINA Cutwork Tool; otherwise select BC01107. Center the design inside the oval placement line and to the right of the hoop center line.
With the design selected, click on the Mirror-Merge
Horizontal icon to create a duplicate; use the center line of the hoop to help with positioning. Press Enter.
To create the stitching line, select, copy, and paste the placement line, then change the color of the stitches. Change Outline to Triple stitch.
Use Color Film to re-sequence the stitch objects:
Hold down the Ctrl key and select the stitching line, then select the placement line and click on the Align
Centers icon. Select Sequence to End.
Reduce the number of thread changes by selecting
Arrange > Stitch Sequence and clicking on Yes.
Save the design as CutWork Glasses Case.
Select the Write to Machine icon to send the design to the machine or a BERNINA Memory Stick.
At the Embroidery Machine
Hoop a piece of BadgeMaster stabilizer in the Large
Stitch the first color—the fabric placement line—on the stabilizer.
Spray the wrong side of the UltraSuede
Temporary Adhesive and smooth it into place over the stitched outline. Be sure to cover the outline completely.
Stitch the next color of the design, the staystitching.
Change to the BERNINA CutWork tool and follow the on-screen prompts to cut the fabric away from inside the lines. Alternatively, remove the hoop from the embroidery machine and use scissors for the cutwork following the instructions included with the design collection.
After cutting, patch the stabilizer by spraying the underside of the hooped stabilizer with 505 Temporary
Adhesive and covering the holes with a piece of BadgeMaster.
Continue stitching the embroidery design.
Place the lining fabric right side down on top of the hooped cutwork and embroider the triple stitching.
Remove the project from the hoop and trim the seam allowances a scant ¼″ from the stitching line.
Turn the case right side out through the opening. press the outer edge. Tuck a small piece of Steam-A-
Seam 2 between the seam allowances; fuse to close the opening.
Working from the lining side, carefully
Fold the case in half with the lining inside and the finished edges aligned. Attach Edgestitch Foot
#10/10C/10D to the machine and move the needle position to the left. Align the edge of the glasses case with the guide in the center of the foot, then stitch the sides together along the long, curved edge only, leaving the top of the case open.
1 0 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
Sergers can be used for so much more than just joining and overlocking seams. In this cuddly quilt, two basic serger seam operations are paired with decorative threads to produce seams that are attractive as well as functional.
When using pre-cut squares from a
Benartex quilt kit, this cozy and adorable blanket goes together very quickly! This project is a great canvas for machine embroidery—consider adding a large motif on one corner or scatter several randomly throughout the squares.
• Sewing machine
(BERNINA artista 630)
• Serger (BERNINA 1300MDC)
• 1 “Minkee Tween” or “Minkee Safari” quilt kit by Benartex
• 2 yards of 44"-wide quilter’s cotton for backing (pre-washed)
• 12 coordinating buttons, ¾" or ⅞" diameter
• 3 spools of Pearl Crown Rayon by YLI
• 1 spool of King Tut by Superior Threads
• 1 spool of coordinating serger thread
• Size 90/14 Topstitch needle
• Button sew-on foot (BERNINA Button Sew-On Foot #18)
Serge the Rows
Thread the serger for a wide 3-thread flatlock with
Pearl Crown Rayon in the upper looper, King Tut in the lower looper, and regular serger thread in the left needle. Make the following adjustments:
Upper Looper Tension = 3
Lower Looper Tension = 8
Left Needle Tension = 2
Right Needle = Removed
Stitch Length = 3
Differential Feed = N
Join two squares by placing them wrong sides together and serging along one side, trimming only about ⅛" of fabric from the edge.
Minkee is a knit fabric, so join the blocks forming the rows on the lengthwise grainline. The flatlocked seam will look like a regular overlock stitch as it comes off the machine.
Grip each block close to the seam and pull the squares apart. The seam will open and lie flat, exposing the Pearl
Crown Rayon on the quilt top and a ladder-like stitch on the wrong side.
Working left to right and top to bottom, assemble rows of blocks using the diagram from the quilt kit as a guide.
Join the Rows
Serge the rows together in the same manner. It is helpful to pin periodically at this point, especially at seam intersections, to line up the rows correctly. Serge, always pulling out the pins before they reach the cutting knife.
After serging, grip and pull these final four seams to flatten them.
If desired, embroider one or more of the squares at this point. The design shown in the photo on page 10 is the OESD “Paisleys 2” Embroidery Collect #12220, design #NB251_48.
Finish the Edges
Place the flatlocked patchwork piece on top of the backing fabric, wrong sides together.
Placing pins parallel to the blanket edges, pin the quilt to the backing at each seam. Also pin each block to the backing
I S S U E 5 • 1 1 in the center, halfway between each set of seams.
Pin each of the twelve seam intersections as shown.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.
Use new spools of Pearl Crown Rayon in the loopers so you won’t run out of thread in the middle of a long edge. Thread the left needle with King Tut.
Upper Looper Tension = 4
• Lower Looper Tension = 4
Left Needle Tension = 4
• Right Needle Tension = 4
Stitch Length = 3
• Differential Feed = N
Serge all four edges of the quilt, cutting off a scant ⅛" of the Minkee and always pulling out the pins before they reach the cutting knife.
Finish the corners by knotting the thread tails and clipping or applying seam sealant.
Attach the Buttons
Note: If making the Sweet Dreams Quilt for infants or young children, omit the buttons and stitch the layers together without them.
Insert a size 90/14
Topstitch needle in the machine and attach the button sew-on foot.
Thread the sewing machine with King Tut in the needle and bobbin.
Select a Button Sew-On stitch (or a Universal stitch with stitch length turned to 0). Place a button over a seam intersection and stitch it in place. Repeat for the remaining buttons.
Brandon Garber is from Iota, Louisiana, and holds a
BS degree in Apparel Design & Merchandising. After college he worked for Dillard’s department stores as a Technical Designer for children’s sportswear. He says he’s sewn on every machine imaginable, but has always returned to his BERNINA! He moved to
Dallas, Texas, in 2009 and ever since then has been working for BERNINA (“The best company ever!”). He is Store Manager for BERNINA Sewing Center 400 in
Garland, Texas. In his spare time he enjoys sewing and playing electric guitar.
1 2 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E by
The exclusive Floralicious
Embroidery Collection will be available at your local authorized BERNINA Dealer in May 2011
This pair of reversible placemats, made with fabrics from the
Benartex “Floralicious” collection, are a bright and cheery accent for spring. Appliquéd flowers from the coordinating
OESD “Floralicious” embroidery collection embellish the side panel and napkin sleeve. Serged napkins complete the set.
• OESD “Floralicious” by Michele D’Amore
Embroidery Collection #1103
• BERNINA Embroidery Software (optional)
• Benartex “Floralicious” fabrics
— ½ yard Small All Over—Black Multi
— ¼ yard Leaf Vine—Green Multi
— ¼ yard Squiggle—Light Green
— ¼ yard Plaid—Pink Multi (binding)
— ¼ yard Tossed Flower—Yellow Multi
— ¼ yard Squiggle—Orange
— ½ yard Plaid—Pink Multi (napkins)
— ½ yard Leaf Vine—Green Multi (napkins)
• Assorted scraps for appliqué
• Two 14" x 18" rectangles of batting
• OESD Ultra Clean & Tear Stabilizer
• 505 Temporary Adhesive Spray
• Isacord Embroidery Thread (colors 0015, 0025,
0112, 4174, 9406)
• OESD Bobbin Thread
• Organ Embroidery needles, size 80/12
• Construction thread
• One spool King Tut by Superior Threads, color #926
• YLI Variations thread in color 0916, Tulip
• Marking pencil or Chaco Liner
• Fray Block
• Olfa Rotary Circle Cutter (or ruler compass)
• Appliqué scissors
• Sewing and embroidery system
• Mega Hoop (or your largest hoop)
• Medium hoop
• Edgestitch foot (BERNINA Edgestitch Foot
• ¼" foot (Patchwork Foot with Guide #57/57D)
• BERNINA Stitch Regulator #42, or your favorite free-motion quilting foot
• Binder Attachment (BERNINA Binder Attachment
#84 with Foot #94 OR Binder Attachment #88 with
Cut the Fabric
Placemat Fronts—with Napkin Sleeve
Cut from Small All Over—Black Multi
• two 4½" x 14½" rectangles
• two 13¾" x 14½" rectangles
Cut from Squiggle—Light Green
• two 6" x 16" rectangles
• four 6" x 7" rectangles
Cut from Leaf Vine—Green Multi
• two 1½" x 14½" rectangles
Placemat Backs—with Patchwork
Cut from Small All Over—Black Multi
• two 9½" x 7½" rectangles
Cut six 4" x 5" rectangles from each fabric
• Tossed Flower —Yellow Multi
• Leaf Vine—Green Multi
• Squiggle—Light Green
Embroider the Napkin Sleeve
Spray a piece of OESD Clean & Tear stabilizer with
505 Temporary Adhesive Spray and adhere it to the back of one of the 6" x 7" pieces of Light Green
Squiggle. Hoop them in the Medium Hoop.
Open “Floralicious” design #110310. Stitch the appliqué placement line.
Lightly spray the appliqué fabric with adhesive and place in position to cover the stitches.
Stitch the tackdown stitches. Remove the hoop from the machine and trim the fabric from outside the tackdown stitching, taking care not to cut the stitches.
Return the hoop to the machine. Continue stitching to complete the appliqué and embroidery. Tear away the excess stabilizer when embroidery is complete.
I S S U E 5 • 1 3
Place embroidered napkin sleeve wrong sides together one of the plain 6" x 7" pieces of Light
Green Squiggle. Trim both layers to 4½" x 5".
Repeat for the second napkin sleeve.
Embroider the Side Panel
Open “Floralicious” design
#110310 in BERNINA Embroidery
Software or the embroidery machine.
Select Mirror Horizontal and then duplicate the design two times. Place the copies in a vertical column within the bounds of the Mega Hoop, spaced evenly. Save.
Hoop a piece of OESD Clean & Tear stabilizer in the
Mega Hoop and spray it with 505 Temporary Adhesive
Place one of the 6" x 16" pieces of Light Green
Squiggle on the sticky stabilizer.
Stitch a basting box around the design.
Stitch the appliqué placement lines; then adhere the appliqué fabrics in place with 505 spray.
Stitch the tackdown stitches; then trim the fabric from outside the stitching.
Return the hoop to the machine. Continue stitching to complete the appliqué and embroidery.
Tear away the excess stabilizer when embroidery is complete and trim panel to 4" x 4½".
Repeat for the second side panel.
1 4 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
Construct the Placemat
Front—with Napkin Sleeve
Cut scant 1⅛" bias strips from the Plaid—Pink Multi fabric.
Install the binder attachment on the sewing machine.
Bind the upper and lower edges of the napkin sleeve and the long sides of the embroidered panel following the instructions included with the binder.
Center the embroidered panel on one of the 13¾" x
14½" Small All Over—Black Multi fabric rectangles.
Attach the edgestitch foot to the machine. Adjust the needle position to the left. Stitch along both sides of the embroidered panel to secure it to the placemat.
Attach the quarter inch foot to the machine. Stitch the 1½" strips of Leaf Vine—
Green Multi to the left side of the placemat using a ¼" seam allowance.
Center the napkin sleeve on the right side of the placemat, embroidery side down.
Place the 4½" x 14½" rectangle of Small All
Over—Black Multi on top, sandwiching the napkin sleeve between the two placemat pieces. Stitch together using a ¼" seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sashing.
Stitch the 4" x 5" rectangles together using a ¼" seam allowance, following the piecing diagram.
Sandwich the batting between the front and back placemat pieces
(wrong sides toward the batting).
Stitch around all four sides, leaving a 5" opening in the middle of one side for turning.
Turn right side out. Turn the edges of the opening under ¼". Press.
Attach the edgestitch foot to the sewing machine and adjust the needle position approximately ⅛" to the left. Stitch around all four sides of the placemat.
Install the BERNINA
#42 to the machine.
Stipple quilt around the flowers on the embroidered panel.
Construct the Napkin
Lightly spray the wrong side of each fabric—Leaf
Vine Green Multi and Plaid Pink Multi—with 505 temporary fabric adhesive spray.
Place the two fabrics wrong sides together.
Use the Rotary Circle Cutter to cut two 18" circles
(= 9" radius) from the layered fabrics.
Place the threads on the serger in this order:
• Isacord on the second spool pin
• Variations one spool to the right
• King Tut on the far right spool pin
Thread the King Tut and Variations threads through the lower looper together; this will create a blended effect on the napkin edge.
Thread the needle with Isacord. Set the serger for a
2-thread rolled edge with the following settings:
• Upper Looper = Adapter attached
• Lower Looper = 4
• Right Needle = 4
• Left Needle = removed
• Upper Knife = engaged
• Stitch Length = 1.0
• Differential Feed = N to 1.5
• Cutting Width = 1.0
• Roll Hem Selection Lever = engaged
Test the stitch on a double layer of fabric.
Adjust the settings in small increments.
Serge around the first double-layer circle, trimming the edge slightly. Adjust the differential feed as needed if the edge becomes wavy.
When nearly at the beginning of the stitching again, overlap the stitches about ½" rather than tapering off the edge. Raise the presser foot and gently release the threads.
Carefully pull to the side to create a thread tail.
Seal the overlapped stitched with Fray Block. Clip the thread tails when dry.
I S S U E 5 • 1 5
1 6 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
The BERNINA 830 has the tremendous capability of bringing ALL sewing and decorative stitches into its embroidery system, and embroidering them instead of stitching them. Once a stitch is turned into an embroidery design in the embroidery system, it can also be saved as a design to a BERNINA Memory Stick and then used in the DesignerPlus BERNINA Embroidery
Software 6. The BERNINA 830’s Endless
Embroidery feature does an excellent job of using stitches in a linear fashion, but curved shapes are not as easily created. Expand your embroidery capabilities by combining two state-of-the-art BERNINA products
– the BERNINA 830 and BERNINA
DesignerPlus Embroidery Software 6 – as you create this lovely heirloom pillow.
• BERNINA 830
• Jumbo Hoop
• OESD Floral Visions Embroidery Collection #001
• BERNINA DesignerPlus Embroidery Software 6
• OESD LightWeight Tear-Away Stabilizer
• OESD Fuse & Fleece or Pellon Fusible Batting
• Fabrics from the Flutter Collection by Benartex
• 3 fat quarters Linen Texture Lichen Green for top & back
• 5" x 7" piece Linen Texture Mossy Green for appliqué
• ¼ yard of Garden Vine Olive Green for the ruffle
• Isacord Embroidery Thread
• Bottom Line in a neutral color for the bobbin
• Hilos Le Espiga nylon cord in a coordinating color
• Monofilament thread
• Organ Titanium Embroidery needle, size 80/12
• Double-curve embroidery scissors
• 14" x 14" square pillow form
• Ruffler #86
• Freemotion Couching Foot #43
Convert BERNINA 830 Stitches into
DesignerPlus Pattern Run Stitches
Turn a Sewing Machine Stitch into an Embroidery Object
• Select decorative stitch #1118.
• Touch the embroidery module icon.
• Open the My Designs folder and select the stitch.
• When the stitch appears on the screen, select the
Save icon. Press the flashing file to save the stitch design to the USB stick.
• Repeat for stitches #819, #523, and #1211.
Note: Sewing stitches can only be brought into embroidery one at a time. Create several at one time to make the transformation process more efficient.
Take the Stitch Design into the
BERNINA Embroidery Software
• Open the DesignerPlus 6 software and insert the
USB stick into the appropriate computer port.
• Select File > Open and select one of the stitch files from the USB stick. These were saved as EXP files, so be sure to select Files of Type > EXP to enable the stitches to be listed.
• Open the stitch file.
Create a Pattern with the 830 Stitches
• With the stitch pattern on the screen, use the
Select Object tool to select it.
• Select Settings >
In the dialog box, create a folder called 830 Stitches.
• Select New Set and type the name, then click OK.
• The prompt area in the lower left corner of the screen indicates that a start points needs to be identified; click on one end of the pattern to create one.
Note: Drawing upper/lower or left/right for the beginning/ending points will cause the pattern to be drawn a different way when used.
I S S U E 5 • 1 7
• A dialog box appears indicating that the pattern has been created successfully.
• Repeat the Create Pattern process to transfer all of the captured BERNINA 830 stitches into the
Pattern Run Library of the software.
Note: The patterns are saved in the Pattern Run
Library under the named file set, such as 830
Stitches. To use these stitches, select Outline >
Pattern Run. Creating new Pattern Run stitches creates unique opportunities for creating lines and shapes beyond the built-in features of the
Embroider the Pillow Top
Create the Floral Frame
• From the OESD Floral Visions Collection, open design #BC00140, the little leaves border.
• Select the design, and then left click on the Rotate
C/CW icon two times.
• Right click on the Hoop icon and select Jumbo
• Select File > Insert and select design #BC00128, little flowers border 2.
• Click on the Mirror Image Vertical and Mirror Image
Horizontal icons, and then arrange the designs to form a corner.
• Resequence the stitching order by holding down the CTRL key, touching the flower border and then touching the leaves border. Select Arrange >
Sequence as Selected. Alternatively, drag and drop the objects in Color File.
• Select All, then Group the corner design.
Tip: Select the Zoom tool for easier viewing.
• With the corner design highlighted, select Edit >
• Select Mirror Image Horizontal and drag the new corner to form the upper right corner of the floral frame. Select All and Group.
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• Select Edit > Duplicate. Select Mirror Image
Vertical and drag the copy to form the lower half of the frame.
• Select All, and then click on the Align Left Vertical icon.
• Select All, then Group the design.
• Check to make sure that all of the design elements fit inside the embroidery field of the Jumbo Hoop.
Rescale if necessary.
(The sample was reduced to 95%.)
• Save the design as
Create the Ring Pattern
• Click on the Grid icon to activate the grid.
• Select the Circle/Oval tool and Outline > Satin.
Draw an oval in the center of the hoop, about 4½ squares tall and 4 squares across. Press Enter to set the Oval.
• Press ESC to exit the tool.
• With the oval selected, select the
Outline Design icon.
• In the dialog box, select Offset = 10mm,
Line Count = 5,
Outline Type = Single
Stitch, and deselect Outline Holes. Press OK.
Note: Each ring can be selected individually and a pattern run stitch substituted for the single stitch outline.
• Save as
Use BERNINA 830
Stitches as Pattern Runs
• Select the outline closest to the satin oval. Click on the
Object Properties icon and select the Outline
• Set the Stitch Type to
• Click on the Select button. In the Patterns drop down menu, select 830 Stitches > ST819. Click OK.
• Set the Spacing at 42mm. Click Apply to audition the effect and keep the dialog box open, or click
OK to set the stitch and close the dialog box. Move the dialog box for a better view of the stitches.
• Select the second outline; select the
• Select the third outline; select Pattern Run
• Select the fourth outline; select Pattern
• Select the fifth outline; select Pattern Run
• Resize the outlines so that the last one intersects the floral frame.
• To re-center the outline, Select All and click on the
Align Centers icon.
Create the Center Appliqué
• Select the oval.
• Select the
Select Fabric >
Benartex 2006 >
Kaye’s Cottage >
• Select Set Stitch
Types Manually and select the oval. Check the box for all options and set the Tack-Down Stitch to Zigzag.
• Press Back and Close.
Insert the Center Design
• Select File > Insert Design > Floral Visions
Embroidery Collection > #BC00130.
• Position the design in the center of the oval.
• Rearrange the stitching order by rearranging the color chips in Color Film.
— Set the Pattern Outlines to stitch first
— Set the Appliqué shape to stitch second
— Set the Floral Frame to stitch third
— Set the Flower in the oval to stitch last
• Select Save As and save a copy of the design.
• Note: It’s always a good idea to save a copy of a design so you’ll have a copy if you want to make any changes later.
• Click on the Write to Machine icon to correctly transfer the design to the USB stick or directly to the BERNINA 830 via cable.
Embroider the Pillow Top
• If the Jumbo Hoop has not been calibrated since the last update, or it is a new hoop, calibrate it in
• Select the design from the USB stick.
• Prepare a fat quarter by fusing OESD Fuse & Fleece or Fusible Pellon to the wrong side. Hoop it with two layers of OESD Ultra Clean & Tear.
I S S U E 5 • 1 9
• Stitch the design following the screen prompts.
• Use Freemotion Couching Foot #43, monofilament, and a straight stitch to couch purchased cord around the embroidered area of the pillow front, filling the 16" square area.
Construct the Pillow
• Trim the pillow front to 15" x 15" square.
• Make the ruffle:
— Cut 2½" strips of the dark green fabric, piecing them together to make 2-3 yards.
— Fold strip in half lengthwise and press.
— Attach Ruffler #86 to the sewing machine and set the ruffler guide to 6.
— Select a straight stitch and adjust the stitch length = 2 mm.
— Guide the folded strip into the ruffler, raw edges to the right and the folded edge to the left of the needle, allowing the fabric to feed evenly.
• Cut two 12" x 15" rectangles for the pillow back.
Stitch a 1” double hem along one long side of each rectangle. With right sides facing up and the hems toward the center, overlap the two rectangles to form a 15" x 15" square. Baste them together.
• Round the corners of the pillow front.
• With raw edges even, stitch the ruffle to the right side of the pillow front, overlapping the ends and bending them perpendicular to the pillow edge to hide the raw ends.
• Sew the pillow front and back right sides together.
Trim excess fabric at corners.
• Turn right side out and insert the pillow form.
2 0 • T H R O U G H T H E N E E D L E O N L I N E
The Last Word
A sneak peek at what’s coming in
Through the Needle ONLINE, Issue #6:
Designed by Liza Lucy, co-author of several quilting books with Kaffe
Fassett, the beautiful coloration and rich texture of this striking wallhanging are created with Fassett’s yarn-dyed woven stripes. Don’t be fooled by its complex appearance—the quilt’s foundation-pieced blocks are easy to construct.
Dimensional Flower Embroidery
This exquisite 3D flower, digitized by Jeanine
McWhorter, is simple to assemble and makes a stunning accessory. They’re so beautiful, you’ll want to experiment with different color combinations and create a bouquet of blossoms that’s uniquely your own.
April 2011 Special
with purchase of #46
Clear Pintuck Foot
Make Perfect Pintucks!
Stitch wide decorative designs between perfectly placed rows of pintucks easily and quickly!
For April 2011 only, purchase a
BERNINA #46 Clear Pintuck Foot and receive a 2.0 Double Needle
Offer good April 2011 at participating BERNINA dealers in the USA and Canada.
May 2011 Special
Expand your Foot Knowledge!
Learn about settings and techniques for over a hundred
BERNINA presser feet and accessories using these comprehensive reference books.
For May 2011 only, get 20% OFF all Feet-ures Books. Coupon may be used for one or more volumes.
Offer good May 2011 at participating BERNINA dealers in the USA and Canada. Only one May
2011 Coupon may be used per person.
These are the main links featured in this issue; see the articles for links to specific products, projects, and technique information. Please visit our sponsors and contributors for more inspiration, information, and stitching fun!
embroideryonline.com • http:/
Until June ...
As always, we hope this issue of Through
the Needle ONLINE has inspired you to learn something new and make your own adaptations of our projects. We love seeing your creations; send e-mail and photos to jo @ berninausa.com.
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